GUIA DE PUNTOS

8/9/2019 GUIA DE PUNTOS

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GUÍA DE PUNTOS

ALGERIAN EYE STITCH AND VARIATIONStarting on the vertical at 1 work a straight stitch over two threads. Bring the

needle out at 2 and into the same centre hole. Out at 3, i n at the centre, out at4 and in at the centre. Bring the needle out at 5, and work a diagonal straightstitch over 2 intersections into the same centre hole as before. Work theremaining diagonal stitches as shown in Fig. 1.

For the variation work two long straight stitches, bringing the needle out at 1and in at 7, out at 2 and in at 8, as shown in Fig. 2. Then bringing the needleout at 4, in at 6, out at 3 and in at 5. This will complete the variation.

ARROWHEAD STITCHBring the thread to the f ront at A, insert the needle at B, bring the needlethrough at C and back down at B. Bring the needle through at D to start thesecond stitch. Continue as shown.This stitch can be used on an evenweave fabric and be worked horizontally or

vertically. It can also be worked in free style and each motif can be scattered atrandom as a filling stitch.

BACK STITCH (for fabric)Bring the thread through on the stitch line, then take a small backward stitchthrough the fabric. Bring the needle through again a little in front of the firststitch, take another stitch, inserting the needle at the point where it first came

through

BASQUE STITCHThis is a looped stitch with a twist. Bring the thread out at A take a small

vertical stitch from B to C making sure that the working thread forms areversed “s” shape around the needle as shown in Fig 1. Take a small tyingstitch over the loop at D and bring the thread out at E in preparation to for thenext stitch, Fig 2. Repeat along the l ine. Fig 3.

ALGERIAN FILLING STITCHThis stitch is ideal for working large background areas. Work a vertical rowof blocks consisting of three satin stitches over four canvas threads. Staggerthe blocks by working the second vertical row of stitching two threads downfrom the previous row.

BACK STITCH (For Canvas)Bring the thread out at the right-hand side. Take a backward stitch over therequired number of threads, bringing the needle out the same number of stitches in front of the place where the thread first emerged. Continue in this

way, working from right to left in the required direction.

BASKETWEAVE TENT STITCHWork as for tent stitch beginning in the top right-hand corner of the area tobe filled, stitching in diagonal rows as shown in the diagram. A basketweave

pattern will appear on the back of your canvas giving a padded and durableeffect.

BERWICK STITCH

This is usually worked in a line on an evenweave fabric. The knot forms the

base with straight stitches coming from it.

If you work two rows of stitches with the knotted edges close together you

can form a fishbone pattern. Tighten each knot before proceeding with thenext stitch. This is good for curved shapes - with the knots t o the inside orthe outside.



BLANKET STITCH AND BUTTONHOLE STITCHThese stitches are worked in the same way the difference being that in

buttonhole stitch the stitches are worked very close together. Bring the threadout on the lower line, insert the needle in position in the upper line, taking astraight downward stitch with the thread under the needle- point. Pull up thestitch to form a l oop and repeat. This stitch may also be worked on evenweave

fabric.

BRAID STITCHThis stitch is i deal for working as a border. Work the stitches close together,

using a thick thread such as a pearl cotton, for best effect.

BROAD STEM STITCH

This stitch is worked in two journeys and consists of two vertical rows of diagonal straight stitches arranged to form 'v' shapes. A row of back stitch i s

then worked between the two rows for extra definition.

BULLION ROSEEach line on the diagram (Fig. 1) shows the position of one bullion knot.

Click here to find out how to work a single bullion knot. The finished

result (Fig. 2) should look like a rose bud.

BUTTONHOLE LOOPSWork two foundation loops next to each other as shown. Work a series of

buttonhole stitches closely together to cover the loop. This works best using afirm thread.

BOKHARA COUCHING (variation)

This stitch is useful and ornamental for filling in shapes of leaves and petalsof flowers. It is worked in the same way as Romanian stitch but the smalltying stitches are set at regular intervals over the laid thread to form patternlines across the shape. The tying stitches should be pulled tight, leaving thelaid thread slightly loose between. We have used a contrasting coloured

thread for the tying stitches for ease of illustration, but you could use amatching thread.

BULLION KNOTPick up a back stitch, the size of the bullion knot required, bringing theneedle right through the fabric. Twist the thread round the needle point asmany times as required to equal the space of the back stitch. Hold yourother thumb on the coiled thread and pull the needle through, still holdingthe coiled thread, turn the needle back to the point it was inserted and insert

in the same place. Pull thread through until bullion knot lies flat.

BUTTERFLY CHAIN STITCHThis stitch is worked in two sections. First work the foundation row of groupsof three vertical straight stitches. The spaces between the groups of stitches

should be about the same width as the area covered by the three stitches.Next bunch together each group of stitches with a twisted chain stitch. Thisstitch can be worked in two different threads and/or colours.

BUTTONHOLE BARSMake a row of running stitches between the lines of the cutwork design asinstructed in the pattern. Where a single l ine bar occurs take a thread acrossthe space and back again, securing with a small stitch. Buttonhole stitch

closely over the loose threads without picking up any of the fabric.

BYZANTINE STITCHThis is a canvaswork stitch worked diagonally over 4 (or more) vertical andhorizontal threads.

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Fig 1. Bring the thread through at A and down at B 4 threads up and 4 threadsto the right. Bring the needle up at C, which is 1 thread to the left of A.Fig 2. Continue working in sequence – C-D, E-F, G-H, I-J, K-L. Then bring thethread through at M, 1 thread up from K, and down at N, 1 thread up from L.Fig 3. Continue working the second step as shown.

Fig 4. The diagram shows how rows of this stitch fit together.

CABLE CHAIN STITCHWork in the same way as for chain stitch but twist the thread around the needle

after each stitch. This will give you a link between each of your stitches. It canbe worked as a free-style stitch (Fig. 1) or on counted work (Fig. 2).

CABLE STITCHCable stitch creates a line of stitching thatlooks like a cable or rope.

Working from left to right, start bybringing the thread through on the line.Insert the needle a little to the right on theline bringing the needle back up at the

midpoint of the stitch and keeping thethread below the needle. Work anotherstitch, this time bringing the needle back up at the end of the previous stitchand keeping the thread above the needle as shown.

Continue in this way, alternating the position of the thread to create a cableeffect.

CASHMERE STITCHCashmere stitch consists of a series of groups of three diagonal stitches which

form slanting rows. The stitching usually starts in the top left-hand corner of the area and the first row is worked downwards to the bottom right-handcorner. The second row is then worked upwards parallel to the first, the thirddownwards, and so on.

CEYLON STITCHMake a long straight stitch across the top of your area to be filled. Thenbeginning at the left-hand side, bring your needle up through the fabric andwork a series of loops over the straight stitch without picking up the fabric.

When the row is complete, push your needle down through the fabric and upat the left-hand side again to begin another row. This time there's no needto work a straight stitch - just work loops into the loops above. Continue inthis way until the shape is filled.

CHAIN STITCHBring the thread out at the top of the line and hold down with left thumb.Insert the needle where it last emerged and bring the point out a shortdistance away. Pull the thread through, keeping the working thread underthe needle point.

CHEVRON STITCH (canvas)Starting at the diagonal, work a straight stitch inserting the needle 10threads up and 2 threads to the right. Bring the needle out 2 threads to the

left and insert 4 threads to the right. Bring out 2 threads to the left theninsert 10 threads down and 2 threads to the right. Carry on in this wayfollowing our numbered diagram.

CHEVRON STITCH (free style)Bring your thread through on the lower line beside the letter A. Insert needleto the right, forming a small stitch then bring your needle out a little to theleft, approximately halfway along the stitch just made. Now insert needle on

the upper line to the right of your lower stitch, and make a small stitch tothe left. Insert the needle to the right and again take a small stitch to theleft (see B). Continue working in this way

CLOUD STITCHThis filling stitch requires several rows of small vertical stitches in an

alternating pattern as in Fig. 1. With a tapestry needle, weave a contrastingthread in and out of the stitches, backwards and forwards in rows withoutpiercing the fabric, as in Fig. 2.

COIL FILLING STITCHThis filling stitch is worked from right to left. Three satin stitches are workedover 4 horizontal threads and between 2 vertical threads leaving 4 threadsbetween each coil. Make a small stitch on the wrong side into the last groupof stitches to secure the thread before commencing the next row.

Fig. 1 - shows the first row worked and the fabric turned round with theneedle in position for the next row. Continue working in this way until theshape is filled. Fig. 2 - shows three rows of stitching worked and illustratedthe alternating position of the coils in each row. All stitches must be pulledfirmly..



COLONIAL KNOTBring the needle through the back of the fabric to the front, just left of the pointwhere the knot is to be made. Hold the embroidery thread lightly between yourthumb and forefinger. Push the needle under the thread from left to right, then

twist the thread over and under the point of the needle to form a figure of eight. Insert the needle through the fabric t o the right of where the needle firstemerged, pulling the needle and thread firmly to the back of the fabric andtightening as for a french knot.

CORAL STITCHBring the thread out at the right end of the line, lay the thread along the line of the design and hold it down with the left thumb. Take a small stitch under the

line and the thread and pull through, bringing the needle over the lower t hreadas in diagram.

CORD STITCHThis stitch can be used to join two pieces of fabric. Place the fabrics together,with wrong sides facing. You may find it easier to press raw edges to the back

and tack the two fabrics together. The t op diagram shows how to beginstitching. Continue working as shown in the second diagram. When complete,press on the wrong side.

COUCHINGCouching or couched work is a technique in which a thread is laid along thedesign line and is held in place with stitches worked with a second thread. Thesecond thread is sometimes in a contrasting colour. The tying stitch should lie

at right angles to the laid thread.Fi. 1. Bring the thread through at A and lay it along the line of the design.Fig. 2. Hold the thread in position with the thumb and with another thread inthe needle, bring the thread through at B and insert it at C, to form a small

straight stitch, or tying stitch, across t he laid thread.Fig. 3. Bring the thread through at D and insert the needle at E. Continue

working in this way.Fig. 4. Shows the finished effect with the laid thread tied down at regular

intervals.

CRETAN STITCHBring needle through centrally at left-hand side, taking a small stitch on l owerline, needle pointing inwards and with thread under the needle- point, as shownat A. Take a stitch on upper line, thread under needle as shown at B. Continuein this way until shape is filled.

CROSS AND TWIST STITCHThis stitch is also known as Moss Stitch. Work a basic cross stitch first. Thelonger vertical stitch should only pierce fabric at the top and bottom. Thetwisted stitch in the centre should be worked around the cross stitch threads

but should not pick up the background fabric.

CROSS BUTTONHOLE STITCHThis is a simple variation of Buttonhole or Blanket Stitch. Use it as an edgestitch or as a line stitch. It would also make a pretty filling stitch. It isworked in pairs of buttonhole stitches, worked at an angle as shown, so that

they cross each other. If the stitches are worked quite close together andworked row on row, a pretty trellis grid pattern is created.

CROSS STITCHBring the thread through at the lower right-hand side, insert the needle 1

block up and 1 block to the left and bring out 1 block down, thus forming ahalf cross, continue in this way to the end of the row. Complete the upperhalf of the cross as shown. Cross stitch may be worked either from right toleft or left to right, but it is important that the upper half of all crossesshould lie in the same direction.

CROSSED CORNERS CUSHION STITCHSatin stitch squares are worked over 1, then 2, then 3, then 4, then 3, then2, then 1 intersections, sloping from right to left. Then, half the square is

overstitched in the opposite direction. The next block is worked in the sameway but with the stitches sloping the opposite way.

DAISY STITCH OR DETACHED CHAIN STITCH



Work in the same way as chain stitch (A), but fasten each loop at the foot witha small stitch (B). This stitch may be worked singly or in groups to form flowerpetals.

DARNED WHEEL FILLING STITCHBegin with Satin Stitch blocks, followed by cutting and removal of threads

(shown by blank areas on the chart). Work four Overcast Bars, then fourTwisted Bars before commencing the Ribbed Wheel. Bring the needle outthrough one of the four holes surrounding the central fabric square. The firststitch is made by passing the needle, in a clockwise direction, under one bar or

"spoke" of the wheel, then over tne next, under the next and so on, over andunder alternate bars until the area is as filled as you require. This version issometimes known as Snowflake Star and can be Stitched using only TwistedBars for the "spokes".

DARNING FILLING STITCHWork a series of running stitches in equally-spaced parallel lines with the

stitches forming an alternating pattern as shown in the diagram.

DARNING STITCHThis stitch is used on plain and evenweave fabrics. It is a variation on runningstitch but the stitches and spaces are not even in length. Here the surface

stitches are longer and only a tiny amount of fabric is picked up by the needle.Many different patterns can be created by varying the arrangement of rows of stitches. Here a simple brick pattern is il lustrated.

DETACHED BUTTONHOLE STITCHCome up through the material at A and down through the material at B (Fig. 1)

making a horizonal straight stitch across the area to be covered (for a f irmerbase work 2 horizonal stitches). Do not pull the stitch too tightly. Bring theneedle out at C and buttonhole stitch closely over the loose thread withoutpicking up any of the fabric (Fig. 2). Every following row of stitches is workedinto the loops of the previous row. Work alternately from side to side. Shaping

is creating by increasing or decreasing stitches at the end of each row.

DETACHED OPEN CHAIN STITCHThis stitch is worked in the same way as detached chain stitch, but this versionhas two tying stitches which gives the "petal" an open appearance.

DETACHED WHEATEAR STITCHBring the thread through at A, Take the needle down at B and through at C(almost like making a fly stitch). Pull the thread through and hold the thread

under your thumb while taking the needle at D to remerge at E directlybelow, catching the loop of the thread under the needle. Pull the threadthrough and secure the loop by taking the needle through again at E. (Asyou would for a detached chain stitch)

DIAGONAL KNOTTED STITCHEach triangle in diagram 1 represents one stitch. Following diagram 2, take

thread down at A (leaving 3 cm tail), bring out at C, take back down at B,then bring back out at A. This completes one stitch. Continue workingdiagonally, working from bottom right to top left in rows, leaving a loopbetween end of last stitch and beginning of the next stitch (Diagram3). After

all the rows have been worked, cut the long loops and trim ends to size. Thisstitch is tricky to master as there is a lot of thread going in and out of eachhole. The stitching needs to be as dense as possible so do not worry if thecanvas distorts slightly.

DIAGONAL RAISEDBAND STITCHThis is a pulled-workstitch, so pull the thread

firmly when stitching.This will result in "holes" appearing in the

design which form part of the pattern. Work the upright cross stitchesdiagonally as shown.

DIAGONAL SATIN STITCH BLOCKS

Bring the thread through at the top left of the square and work from A to Bover 1 diagonal intersection of t he canvas. Bring the thread through at Cand work from C to D over 2 diagonal intersections. E to F is worked overthree intersections, G to H over four. Complete I to J, K to L and M to N as



shown. When adjacent squares and rows are worked in the opposite direction,this becomes Cushion Stitch.

DIAGONAL TENT STITCHBring the thread out at the left-hand side and work a stitch diagonally upwardsand to the right over one canvas thread intersection, pass the needle vertically

downwards behind two horizontal canvas threads and bring through inreadiness for the next stitch and continue as before. This stitch is particularlyuseful for filling in large areas as this method is less likely to distort the canvas.

DIAMOND EYELETFig 1. - bring the needle through at A, insert it at B (4 threads down) and bring

it out again at C (3 threads up and 1 thread to the left).Fig. 2 - Insert the needle again at B (3 threads down and 1 thread to the right)and bring it out at D (2 threads up and 2 threads to the left).

Fig. 3 - Insert the needle at B (2 threads down and 2 threads to the right) andbring out at E (1 thread up and 3 threads to the left).

Fig. 4 - Insert the needle at B (1 thread down and 3 threads to the right) andbring out at F (4 threads to the left).Fig. 5 - Continue working in this sequence to complete a diamond eyelet.

DIAMOND LEVIATÁNCome out at one, enter at two, come out at three, enter at four and so on until

the complete stitch has been worked.

DIAMOND RHODES STITCHWhen the Rhodes Stitch is worked over a diamond rather than a square beginby bringing the thread out at letter A, in at B, out at C and continue round thediamond shape in this way until complete or the desired shape is achieved.

DIAMOND STAR STITCHA diamond star is made up of eight stitches, each going through the samecentral hole. Four of the stitches are slightly longer than the rest, so countcarefully when working this stitch

DOUBLE CHAIN STITCHBring the needle up at 1, down at 2 and up at 3,

keeping the thread under the needle as shown. Take the needle down at 1 andup at 4, again keeping the thread under the needle. Continue in this wayworking one stitch on the right and one on the left alternately.

DOUBLECROSS STITCHFig. 1 - work a single cross stitch then bring the needle out four threadsdown and two threads to the left.

Fig. 2 - insert the needle four threads up and bring out two threads to the

left and two threads down.Fig. 3 - insert the needle four threads to the right and bring out two threadsdown and four threads to the left in readiness to commence the next stitch,

or finish off at the back for a single double cross stitch.

DOUBLE FEATHER STITCHA variation of feather stitch this is worked in a zig-zag and downward

direction. Two (or more) stitches are made alternately to the left and right of the centre, as shown.

DOUBLE HERRINGBONE STITCHUsing the first colour, bring the needle out on the lower line at the left sideand insert on the upper line a little to the right, taking a small stitch to theleft with the thread below the needle. Next insert the needle on the l ower

line a little to the right and take a small stitch to the left with the threadabove the needle. Introduce the second colour by working in the same wayin between the stitches already worked.

DOUBLE KNOT STITCHThis stitch is also known as Palestrina stitch. Bring the thread through at A.Take a small stitch across the line at B. Pass the needle downwards underthe surface stitch just made, without piercing the fabric, as at C. With thethread under the needle, pass the needle again under the fi rst stitch at D.

Pull the thread through to form a knot. The knots should be spaced evenlyand closely to obtain a beaded effect.

DOUBLE LEVIATHAN STITCH

Double leviathan is worked over four threads in each direction and is actuallya succession of different crosses on top of one another, so that in the end,

every hole around the square is fill ed. It may be worked with either thestraight or the corner-to-corner cross on top. Care must be taken whenworking several double leviathan stitches together to work all the samecrosses on top, unless a different regular pattern has been decided upon.This makes an extremely high, hard stitch and is most useful in patterned

work as a contrast to fl atter stitches. As it is worked over four threads it canonly be satisfactorily fitted into spaces in which the canvas threads aredivisible by four.

DOUBLE OR ITALIAN HEMSTITCHFig. A - bring the thread out four (or required number) loose threads to the

left in the top band of drawn threads; pass the needle behind the fourthreads, bringing it out where the thread first emerged.Fig. B - pass the needle down over the fabric and under four (or required

number) loose threads in the l ower band of drawn threads; pass the needleover the same four threads and under the fabric, bringing it out four threads



to the left in the top band of drawn threads. These two movements are workedthroughout. The free edges of the drawn thread spaces can be hemstitched inthe usual way.

DOUBLE-SIDED CROSS STITCH

This stitch is also known as marking stitch or brave stitch. It should be used on

fabrics where both sides will be on view. Each row is worked in four journeys.At the end of the first journey and the beginning of the fourth extra half diagonals are worked. If it is necessary, work over an existing cross stitch toget to a continuation point to allow you to keep the stitch identical on both

sides. Try to do this as neatly as possible as it will show! Take care to securethe thread ends when beginning and ending this embroidery under an existingstitch.

DOVE'S EYE FILLING STITCHThis stitch is composed of four loopedstitches, one on each side of the spaceleft by the cut fabric threads. The stitchesare taken under the central stitch with the

thread under the needle. To complete thelast loop, pass the needle under thecommencing stitch and insert into the

fabric at the other side of the central stitch.

DUTCH STITCHWork the elongated cross stitch first, then work the single vertical stitch. Thestar shapes can be worked over a large area and should fit together as shownhere

EDELWEISS STITCH

Work the first part of this stitch as for Whipped Spiders Web Stitch, working theweb halfway across the bars (fig.1).Pass the thread up through the gap between the last two rings of the web, overthe last ring of the web, under the top bar and come up to the right of the t opbar. Bring thread over the top bar and bring needle up through gap betweenlast two rings of web as before. Continue weaving in this way until you reach

the top of the bar.Work the other seven "petals" in the same way.

ELONGATEDCROSS STITCH

For the upright cross, bring theneedle up at the left-hand side

and insert the needle twothreads down and one thread to the left, so forming

half a cross. Bring the needle up one thread to the right and down two threadsup and one thread to the left. A complete cross has been formed (Fig. 1).

Bring the thread up two threads down and one thread to the left. Complete theelongated cross stitch as shown. For a horizontal cross, bring the needle up atthe left-hand side and insert the needle one thread down and two threads tothe left. Complete as shown in the diagram. (Fig. 2).

ENCROACHING GOBELIN STITCHThis stitch consists of horizontal rows of diagonal satin stitch. The secondrow overlaps the first row by one fabric thread. Continue working in rows

until your shape is filled.

ENCROACHING SATIN STITCHWork a row of closely spaced satin stitch. The top of each stitch in thesecond row should fall between the base of two stitches on the first row.Continue in this way on subsequent rows until your shape is filled.

ERMINE STITCHWork a long stitch, then work the larger cross stitch followed by the smallercross stitch below. These can be worked in a combination of colours or onecolour as required

EYE STITCHEye stitch is primarily a canvas stitch used on single canvas but it can alsobe successfully worked on an evenweave fabric, providing that a fine threadis used. A filling stitch, it makes a regular, geometric pattern of square

blocks, which can be worked in two or more colours. Each block covers eightvertical and eight horizontal canvas threads and consists of sixteen straightstitches of graduated lengths, radiating from the same central point. Aroundthe outside of each square, the stitches are drawn through alternate holes,

leaving two canvas threads unworked.

FAGGOTINGThis stitch is also known as twisted insertion stitch. Stitch alternatively intoeach edge of the fabric, catching a loop of thread as shown. The finished

stitches form a decorative zig-zag effect.

FANCY HERRINGBONE STITCH

This stitch is worked in three separate sections. First work a row of ordinary

herringbone stitches. An upright cross

stitch is then worked over the top and bottom cross of the herringbone,with the horizontal bar of the cross worked over the top of the vertical one.Then interlace the horizontal bars as shown without piercing the fabric. Usea tapestry needle for this which al so helps to avoid splitting threads. This

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stitch can be worked with a single colour or in a selection of colours andthreads.

FEATHER STITCHFig. A - bring the needle out at the top centre, hold the thread down with theleft thumb, insert the needle a l ittle to the right on the same level and take asmall stitch down to the centre, keeping the thread under the needle point.Next, insert the needle a little to the left on the same level and take a stitch to

the centre, keeping the thread under the needle point. Work these twomovements alternately.Fig. B - shows Double Feather Stitch, in which two stitches are taken to theright and left alternately.

FEATHERED CHAIN STITCH

This creates a pretty zig-zag line. The stitch is made up of chain

stitches and is worked in a downwards direction, worked alternately to

the left and to the right on a slant. These are then connected by straightdiagonal stitches as shown.

FERN STITCHAlso known as Fern Leaf Stitch, Fern stitch is a simple line stitch which can beused to stitch leaf veins or delicate foliage sprays. The stitch consists of threestraight stitches of equal length, worked at angles to each other and sharingthe same base hole. Groups of stitches can be arranged to form a line. Work astraight stitch, then two side stitches. Carry on in this way to make a line of

stitches. You can vary the length of stitches when working on a curve.

FIR STITCHWork carefully following the sequence of numbers on the diagram. The three-dimensional effect is achieved by using the hole for the top part of the leaf fivetimes. To finish, work a vertical stitch as shown.

FESTOON FILLING STITCHBring the needle through at A. Take itdown at B (2 threads to the right)

making a back stitch. Bring the needlethrough at C (2 threads down and 2 threads to the left.)

Make the second stitch between C and A, with t he needle emerging at D (2threads down and 2 threads to the lef t) ready to make the third backstitch fromD to C.

Continue to form the pattern as shown.If working a second row, place the stitches 6 threads below the first row. Forpulled work, pull the stitches tight for a lacy effect.

FISHBONE STITCHThis stitch is useful for filling small shapes. Bring the thread through at Aand make a small straight stitch along the centre line of the shape. Bring thethread through again at B and make a sloping stitch across the central li neat the base of first stitch. Bring the thread through at C and make a similarsloping stitch to overlap the previous stitch. Continue working alternately on

each side until the shape is filled.

FLORENTINE STITCH

This stitch is used for working zig-zag patterns known as Florentine work. It

is generally used to fill a large area and is worked in two or more rows of different colours forming a wave pattern. The size of the wave may vary,depending upon the number of stitches or the number of threads over whichthe stitches are worked. Fig. 1 shows the method of working a single row of

stitches. Fig. 2 shows the fini shed effect when using three colours.

FLY STITCHBring your needle through at the top left, hold it down with the left thumb,insert the needle into the right at the same level, a small distance fromwhere the thread first emerged and make a small downward stitch with the

thread below the needle. Pull through and insert the needle again below thestitch at centre (A) and bring in through in position for the next stitch. Thisstitch may be worked singly or in rows horizontally (A) or vertically (B).

FOUR-SIDED STITCHThis stitch produces a close textured effect and is used in pulled work. Fig. 1

Bring the thread through at A and down at B the required number of threadsup (see your working chart), and through at C the required number of threads down and to the left as shown. Fig. 2 Insert the needle at A bringingit out at D diagonally opposite. Fig. 3 Insert the needle at B and out at C.

Fig. 4 Insert the needle at D, thus completing the square. Fig. 5 Shows thecompleted sequence of working. Remember to pull all stitches firmly.

FRENCH KNOT BORDER STITCHEach stitch consists of a fly stitch loop with a French knot instead of a

straight stitch worked to anchor it. The stitches are placed close together toform a row and the rows are worked horizontally, from left to right, in one journey.



FRENCH KNOTSBring the thread out at the required position, hold the thread down with the leftthumb and encircle the thread twice with the needle as at A. Still holding thethread firmly, twist the needle back to t he starting point and insert it close towhere the thread first emerged (see arrow). Pull thread through to the backand secure for a single french knot or pass on to the position of the next stitch

as at B.

GATHERED BUDFor each bud required, cut a length of ribbon measuring about 8 cm. Bring theneedle, threaded with a matching stranded cotton, through the fabric at the

required position. Gather the ribbon by working a running stitch along thelength of the ribbon, zig-zagging from side to side, each stitch being 2 cmapart. Turn the needle back and insert it through the start of the ribbon andinto the fabric where the thread first emerged. Pull the thread through to the

back of the fabric and the ribbon will bunch to create a bud.

GERMAN KNOTTED BUTTONHOLE STITCHMake a standard buttonhole stitch by bringing the th read out at A, inserting theneedle at B and bringing it out at C, keeping the thread under the needle. Workthe second buttonhole stitch adjacent then pass the needle under the thread of both stitches as shown. Bring the thread round, then insert the needle at F,

ready to make the first buttonhole stitch of the next group, F-G.

GOBELIN STITCHThis basic stitch is usuall y worked across one vertical and two horizontal canvasthreads and should look neat and steeply diagonal. It looks like an oversized

tent stitch and is worked in the same way giving a longer stitch on the back

than on the front. Gobelin is useful for stripes and has a marked ribbed effect.

GRANITOS STITCHBegin by bringing the thread through at A and down at B.

Come through at A again, using the same hole as before and, keeping theworking thread to the left, go down at B, again through the same hole asbefore. The second stitch should lie to the left of the first stitch.Work the next stitch in the same way, t his time keeping the working thread tothe right. This stitch should lie to the right of the previous two stitches.

Work a fourth stitch in the same way, positioning it to the left of all previousstitches.Depending on the effect required, further stitches can be worked alternately to

the right and left. Remember, all stitches should be worked through the sametwo holes in the fabric.

GREEK CROSS FILLING STITCHWrap two fabric threads working towards the centre of the motif. To workthe next bar and the filli ng, take the thread under the centre and up

between the next 4 fabric threads to be worked. Fig. 1.Pull the first stitch firmly to tighten it then weave in a figure of eight pattern,pulling quite tightly at first, then gradually loosening off to make a fanshape. Fig. 2. Count the number of stitches so that you can repeat for each

motif.Finish wrapping the fabric threads of the second bar as shown.To move on to the next section, take the needle under the next set of threads to come up on the outer edge, Fig. 3. And work the corner as

before.Work this way in each quadrant until the motif is complete.

GREEK CROSSVARIATIONThis stitch is used in

Hardanger embroidery.Before working this stitch,the satin stitch areas mustbe completed and the

relevant fabric threads cut and removed. Fig. 1 Workingwith two sets of fabric threads, one at right angles tothe other, work an Overcast Bar over half the threads of one group as shown. Work this bar at the nearest

corner to be turned. When complete, work a second Overcast Bar over the

remaining threads of this group ending at the corner point as shown.Fig. 2 The second stage is f ormed by working a Woven Bar over the lastOvercast Bar and half of the fabric threads of the next group. As you work,the two groups of fabric threads which radiate out from the corner point will

form small arches. Stop working this Woven Bar halfway along the fabricthreads.Fig 3 Once the Woven Bar section has been completed, cover the remainingsection of the group of fabric threads with an Overcast Bar. The remaining

fabric threads of this group can then be covered with an Overcast Bar or becombined with the next set of fabric threads to form another Greek CrossFilling Stitch

GROS POINTSTITCHFirstly work a tram line

from left to right (Fig. 1). Cover the

tram line with tent stitch, workingfrom right to left (Fig. 2).

HALF CROSS STITCHBring the needle through at A and insert the needle diagonally upwards after

one canvas thread intersection. Bring the needle through at C, one threadbelow. Continue in this way across the row. On the second row, the needle ispassed vertically upwards to complete the stitch as shown



HALF DIAMOND EYELET STITCHA variation of Eye Stitch, the diamond shape covers ten vertical threads andfive horizontal threads. Begin stitching at letter A in Fig. 1, going in at B aftereach letter in turn, Fig. 2. Continue the second half of the diamond by coming

out at G, in at B and so on until the shape in Fig. 3 is achieved

HALF DIAMOND RHODES STITCHThe working method is the same whatever the number of fabric threads making

up the diamond (refer to chart for the number of fabric threads Half DiamondRhodes Stitch is worked over). Fig.1 – The dots indicate where the thread isbrought through to the front of the fabric and then taken to the back. Fig.2 –Bring the thread through at A, insert the needle at B, bring through at C, insert

at D, bring through at E, insert at F. Fig.3 – Continue in this way following thediagrams working the stitches in alphabetical order: G-H, I-J, K-L, M-N, witheach stitch overlapping the previous stitch.

HEMSTITCHBring the working thread out two fabric threads down from the drawn threadsat the right-hand side. Pass the needle behind four loose threads, then insertthe needle behind the same four threads, bringing the needle out two threadsdown in readiness for the next stitch. The number of threads may be varied to

suit the fabric or design

HERRINGBONE STITCHBring the needle out on the lower line at the left-hand side and insert it on theupper line a little to the right, taking a small stitch to the left, with the thread

below the needle. Next, insert the needle on the lower line a little to the rightand take a small stitch to the left with the thread above the needle. These two

movements are worked throughout. For the best effect the fabric lifted by theneedle and the spaces in between should be of equal size.

HOLBEIN STITCHFirstly work a row of evenly-spaced running stitches. When this is complete,work your way back along the line of stitching filling in the gaps to give a

continuous line of stitching. This stitch should look identical on both sides of thefabric.

HONEYCOMB FILLING STITCHThis filling stitch is worked from the top downwards. Fig. 1 - bring the thread

out at the arrow. Insert the needle at A (2 threads to the right) and bring out atB (2 threads down), insert again at A and bring out at B, insert at C (2 threadsto the left) and bring out at D (2 threads down), insert again at C and bring outat D. Continue in this way for the required length. Turn the fabric round for the

next and each following row and work in the same way. Fig. 2 - shows the workturned ready for the second row. Fig. 3 - shows two rows of stitching and howthey form a filling. All stitches must be pulled firmly.

HOUNDSTOOTH STITCHThis can be used on double or single canvas and needs a fairly thick thread

to give good coverage. The squares are worked over four canvas threads.Work a diagonal straight stitch from the bottom left-hand corner to the topright-hand corner. Work an interlocking loop as shown in each of the tworemaining corners, encircling the diagonal stitch. Work the squares in

horizontal rows. If filling a large area, place the next row of squares directlyunderneath the first.

HUNGARIANSTITCHWork sets of straight stitchesover 2, 4 and 2threads, leaving 2

vertical threads inbetween each set.Work the secondrow in the same

way, positioning theblocks to fit into the gaps left in the previous row.Continue to build up the pattern in this way.

INTERLACED BANDof a stitch on one line is directly in line with the start of a stitch on the other.With a matching or contrasting thread, follow the diagram and lace though

every stitch

INTERLACED CROSS STITCH VARIATIONFirstly work a large cross stitch over the required number of threads as

shown in A. Then work two horizontal and two vertical stitches, making surethey lie as shown in B.Finally, work shorter stitches on the diagonal as shown in C.

INTERLACED DOUBLEHERRINGBONE STITCH

Work a row of doubleherringbone stitch first.Lace this with acontrasting colour of

thread, working over andunder the top half of thestitch as shown, going fromleft to right. Complete thelacing on the bottom half of

the stitch in the same way,going from right to left.



INTERLACED HEMSTITCHWork ladder hemstitch first. Fasten a long thread at the right-hand sidecentrally at the loose threads on the wrong side of work. Fig A. - pass theworking thread across the front of two groups of threads and insert the needle

from left to right under the second group. Fig. B. - twist the second group over

the first group by inserting the needle under the first group from right to left.Pull thread through. The interlaced thread should be pulled firmly to lie inposition through the centre of the twisted groups.

INTERLACEDHEMSTITCH WITH BEADSThis stitch is worked in two parts. Firstly you must work a hemstitch borderalong both edges of your drawn-thread panel. To do this, bring the workingthread out 2 threads down from the space of drawn threads, pass the needlebehind and round 4 loose vertical t hreads, bringing the needle out 2 threads

down. Continue in this way along both edges of the drawn-thread band.

INTERLACING STITCHWork the foundation row of herringbone stitch. Work in two journeys so that

the stitches intertwine in a specific way. The last two crosses on the diagramhave been left so that the interlacing can be seen clearly. The first row is shownin a medium tone on the diagram. In working the rows of herringbone forinterlacing the stitches are worked slightly differently. In the top stitch, the

needle is passed under the working thread in each case instead of over it. Closeattention must be paid to the alternate crossing of the threads when workingthe second row.Do not work this foundation row tightly as the interlacing thread tends to draw

the stitching together.

When the rows of herringbone are complete bring the thread to the surface andfollow the diagram. At the end of the row, lace the thread around the last crossin the centre and work back in a similar way along the lower half of the

foundation row.

ITALIAN HEM STITCHThis stitch is used when there are two bands of drawn threads relatively closetogether. The stitch is worked in one journey and decorates both drawn threadbands. Follow diagram 1, then 2, and continue in that way until the band iscomplete. The outer edges of the bands can also be decorated using hem stitch.

JACQUARD STITCHRows of stitches are worked diagonally f rom upper left to lower ri ght and each

row is completed before starting the next. The length of stitches alternates. Inone row the stitches are worked diagonally over 2 canvas thread intersectionsand in the next row over 1 canvas thread intersection. Fig. 1 - work diagonalstraight stitches over 2 thread intersections as shown and follow the broken

lines and arrows for positioning stitches. Fig. 2 - the second row of diagonalstraight stitches is worked over 1 thread intersection. Fig. 3 - this shows theeffect of 6 rows of Jacquard Stitch.

JAPANESE DARNING STITCHSpaced horizontal rows of ordinary darning stitch are worked over the shapewith the stitches arranged alternately on every row. The thread is thenbrought through to the right of the second row to link the two rows with

slanting stitches. This process is repeated over the entire shape; the linking

rows should be worked from right to left. Care must be taken to make surethat the needle enters and emerges from the fabric through the holes madeby the darning stitches; in this way the stitches are kept perfectly regular.

KLOSTER BLOCKSKloster blocks normally consist of five satin stitches worked over four fabric

threads, bringing the needle up at the lower edge each time. Bring theneedle up at the lower right-hand corner ready to work the next block (Fig.1). Work the second block at right angles to the first, and the th ird block atright angles to the second (Fig. 2) . Continue to work the pattern in a step

formation.

KNITTING STITCHWorking upwards, stitch a row of slanting straight stitches. Work the nextrow of straight stitches downwards, slanting the stitches in the opposite

direction.

KNOTTED STAR LACE FILLING STITCHThe first part of this stitch is worked in vertical, single rows from the bottom,to the top, of the shape to be filled. There are three kloster blocks in thisdiagram that have rows of cut holes above them. Beginning at the left-hand

kloster block, bring the needle up to the left or right of the centre satinstitch. Lay the thread vertically over the first cut hole and insert the needleinto the hole above it and bring it back through the first hole, keeping thethread on the left of the needle. Now pass your needle from left to right

under the thread lying across the fabric threads between the two holes. Pulltight to draw the fabric threads together. Continue upwards in this way,finishing off by taking you needle down through the kloster block at the top,again to the left or right of the centre satin stitch. Work in this way for the

remaining vertical rows. Turn your fabric through 90° and work vertical linesof stitching as before. These will lie at right angles to the previous lines of stitching. Now you are ready to work diagonal lines of stitches across the cutholes. Bring the needle up in any corner, lay the thread diagonally across

the first hole and take the needle down and up through the solid fabricsquare between holes. Continue in this way until all the cut holes arecovered with one diagonal thread. Work the other diagonal in the same way,but work a knot around the group of three threads lying across each hole

(see diagram for guidance).






.LACED DOUBLE RUNNING STITCH

This is a variation of running stitch. Work a foundation of two rows of

evenly-spaced running stitches as shown, making sure that the stitches and the

spaces between them are all of an even length. Lace a second thread up anddown the rows as shown. This stitch works well with a ribbon or a metallicthread for the lacing. Use a t apestry needle to avoid piercing the fabric orsplitting the thread on the foundation row.

LACED RUNNING STITCHWork the running stitch in the usual way. Thread your needle with a differentcolour of thread and work the lace stitch through each running stitch, beingcareful not to pick up any of the fabric.

LADDER HEMSTITCHThis stitch is worked in the same way as hemstitch, with the hemstitch beingworked along both edges of the space of drawn threads. Hemstitch and ladderhemstitch may be worked on fine linen or evenweave linen.

LADDER STITCHThe first stitch should be at right angles to the seam and pierce both fabrics.

Take a small running stitch as shown, then take the thread down in the firstfabric. Repeat as shown along the l ength of the seam. The stitches should

almost be invisible.

LONG AND SHORT STITCHThis form of satin stitch is so named as all the stitches are of varying lengths. It

is often used to fill a shape which is too large or too irregular to be covered bysatin stitch. It is also used to achieve a shaded effect. In the first row thestitches are alternately long and short and closely follow the outline of theshape. The stitches in the following rows are worked to achieve a smooth

appearance. The diagram shows how a shaded effect may be obtained.

LONG SATIN STITCHSatin stitches are laid down parallel to each other and are worked over the

number of threads of the pattern or of your choice.

LONG TAILED FLY STITCHThis is worked in exactly the same way as fly stitch, but the tying (vertical)stitch is longer. Bring your needle through at the top left, hold it down withthe left thumb, insert the needle int o the right at the same level, a small

distance from where the thread first emerged and make a small downwardstitch with the thread below the needle. Pull through and insert the needleagain below the stitch at centre and bring in through in position for the nextstitch. This stitch may be worked singly or in horizontal or vertical rows.

LONG-LEGGED CROSS STITCHThis form of cross stitch is very easy to do. It is made up of a short diagonalstitch and a long diagonal stitch. The long stitch should be worked over twice

as many threads as the short stitch.

LOOP STITCH VARIATIONBring your ribbon up through the material at A, over your cable needle anddown through your material at B to form a loop (Fig. 1). Repeat this stitch to

form two loops side by side (Fig. 2). Slip the first loop off the cable needleand work another loop over the cable needle (Fig. 3). Continue in this way ina circular motion until you have made a flower shape (Fig. 4). Leave the lastloop on your cable needle until you have fastened off securely

LONG TAILED FRENCH KNOTSThis stitch is also known as Pistil Stitch and is worked in exactly the sameway as a french knot, but a "tail" is left on the top of the work prior toworking the knot. It can be worked singularly or in groups as shown in fig.3.

MAIDENHAIR STITCHThis stitch is a variation of single feather stitch. It is worked downwards,with groups of three stitches whi ch are graduated, worked either side of acentral line as shown.

http://www.classicstitches.com/know_how/know_how.cfm?how_to_id=154&how_to_cat=Stitch%20Glossary&let=R





MALTESE CROSSThis is worked in a similar way to Interlacing Stitch. Make sure the intertwiningon the foundation row is worked accurately otherwise the interlacing cannot beachieved. Bring the thread through at A and take a stitch from B to C. Carry the

thread from C to D and take a stitch from D to E. Continue in this way followingFig. 1 until the foundation is complete. Fig. 2 shows the interlacing whichcommences at F. Fig 3. shows the complete motif.

MILANESE STITCHThe stitch is worked diagonally, over 1 , then 2, then 3, then 4 canvasintersections, then repeated (see diagram). The longest stitch fits against theshortest stitch of the previous row. Work complete rows before going back to fillin any odd shapes in your outline.

MONTENEGRIN STITCHFirst, work a long-armed cross stitch. The longest stitch should cover twice thenumber of threads of the shortest stitch. In our example, the long stitch isworked over 8 threads, the shortest over 4 threads. Next, work a vertical stitchthe same height as the long-armed cross stitch. Continue in this way working

rows of this stitch from left to right.

MOORISH STITCHUsed on double canvas. Usually worked in two colours of thread and can be

worked in a combination of wool and cotton threads. The stitch is workeddiagonally from the top left to the bottom right of the area, in alternate rows.One row consists of groups of four graduated diagonal stitches, which formssquares, and the other is made up of tiny diagonal stitches running in the same

direction as the preceding row.

MOSAIC FILLING STITCHThis stitch is usually used in pulled work. Fig. 1 - work four blocks of satin stitchto form a square, with an equal number of stitches in each block and workedover an equal number of threads. Bring the thread from the last stitch throughto the right hand corner of the inner square. Fig. 2 - work a four-sided stitchwithin the satin stitch blocks, bringing the thread out at the starting point. Fig.

3 - work a cross stitch in the centre and pull tightly.

MOSAIC STITCHDiagonal Mosaic is worked over 1 then 2 canvas intersections and thenrepeated. The long stitch of one row fits against the short stitch of theprevious row, giving an interlocking effect.

NEEDLEWEAVING (for petals and leaves)Insert a large-headed pin, at the required position (tip of the petal) and thenbring the pin to the front of the fabric and immediately to the back to securethe pin in place. Fig. 1 - Bring the thread through at A and insert at B, taking

the thread round the back of the pin head and bring out at C. Fig. 2 - Takethe thread around the back of the pin head for a second time and then insertthe needle under one vertical thread, over the middle one and under thethird one. Pull the thread through tightly. Continue weaving the needle inand out of the vertical threads until they have all been covered. On

completion of the needle-weaving, take the thread to the back of the workand secure.

NORWICH STITCHAlthough this stitch looks complicated to work, it is actually quite simple.Follow the numbered diagrams, remembering that you should bring your

needle up through your fabric on the odd numbers and down through yourfabric on the even numbers.

NUN'S STITCHThis is a good stitch for hemminglinen. It's made up of double stit ches

and is very easy to work. As shown inthe diagrams, work one stitch thenanother, bringing the needle out asshown in readiness to work the next

set of stitches.When complete, cut close to the openedge of the stitches to form a neathem.

OBLIQUE LOOP FILLING STITCHBring the thread through the fabric in the centre of one of the solid fabricsquares as marked on the diagram with an arrow. Take the needle backthrough the fabric at A and, leaving the thread fairly loose, bring the needle



back through the hole at B, l ooping it under the loose thread. Take anotherstitch under the first loop, from C to D, thereby twisting the thread around thefirst loop. This completes the first corner of the filling stitch. To form the nextside, take the needle through the fabric in the next corner E and repeat thelooping and twisting process. Repeat until all four sides of the stitch are

complete. Remember to take the thread around the beginning of the firstlooped side to finish off the full stitch. Take the needle back to the wrong sideand fasten off at the starting point.

OPEN FISHBONE STITCHBring the thread through at A and make a sloping stitch to B. Bring the threadthrough again at C and make another sloping stitch to D. Bring the threadthrough at E, continue in this way until the shape is filled.

OUTLINE STITCHThis stitch is very simple t o work and resembles stem stitch. Keep the workingthread on the left.

OVERCAST BARSThis bar is used for hardanger and can also be used in drawn-threadembroidery. To work the overcast bars, withdraw the number of threads

required from the fabric and separate the l oose threads into bars by overcastingfirmly over these threads as many times as required to cover the group of threads completely.

PAGODA CHEVRON STITCHBring the thread through at 1, down at 2, up at 3, down at 4 and up at 5.

Continue in this way to form a horizontal row of stitching.

PARISIAN STITCHThis stitch can be worked either vertically or horizontally. The stitches are

worked alternately over six horizontal threads then two horizontal threads, in astraight line. For the second row, the short stitch is placed under the long stitchand vice versa. For a smaller version, work over three and one threads.

PEKIN KNOT (Chinese Knot)Make a simple, loose loop around your needle and tighten after the needle

has entered the fabric, but before it has been completely pulled through.

While pulling the needle through the fabric, hold the loop down on the fabricwith your other thumb

PEKINESE STITCHWork back stitch in usual way, then interlace with a thread to tone or thread

of a different colour. The stitch is shown open in the diagram but the loopsshould be pulled slightly when working.

PERSPECTIVE STITCHWorking from left to right, make a diagonal stitch two threads up and two tothe right (1-2). Place two similar stitches below the first (3-4 and 5-6). From

the holes where the first three stitches ended begin three more diagonalstitches, this time down and to the right. Continue in this way across thework creating three stripe chevrons pointing upwards. With a second colourwork a series of chevrons pointing downwards beginning with the first stitch

in the same hole as the previous first stitch (A-B) but working downwards.

PIN STITCHFig. 1 - bring the thread out at the arrow, insert t he needle at A (2 threadsdown) and bring out at B (4 threads to the left), insert again at A and thenbring out again at B. Fig. 2 - insert the needle again at A and bring out at C

(2 threads up and 4 threads to the left). Continue in this way for therequired length. All stitches must be pulled firmly.

PINWHEEL MILANESE STITCHFollow the numbered diagram to complete the first part of the stitch. The

second "triangle" has more stitches than the first (Fig. 2). Again follow thenumbers for the position of the stitches. These two sets of stitches can bealternated as shown in Fig.3.



PLAITED ALGERIAN STITCHFig. 1 - bring your thread through at your chosen point then down over twocanvas threads and across one horizontally then insert your needle and takeone horizontal stitch back under one canvas thread bringing it out ready for the

next stage. Fig. 2 - take your thread up over two intersections, across twocanvas threads then insert it before taking a horizontal stitch back under onecanvas thread bringing out ready to begin again at Fig. 1. Fig. 3 - this showsthe pattern build up with the stitch.

PLAITED CROSS STITCHThis stitch is made up of a cross stitch and four straight stitches. Work it in thesequence shown ie. A-B, C-D etc. Note when working K to L you will have to

weave under the stitch E to F as shown in the diagram.

PORTUGESE STEM STITCHFig. A - commence as for ordinary stem stitch. Fig. B - pull the thread throughand pass the needle under the stitch just made, without entering the fabric. Fig.C - pass the needle under the same stit ch below the first coil. Fig. D - makeanother stem stitch. Fig. E - pass the needle twice under the stitch just made

and under previous stitch. Fig. F. - a section showing the formation of the

stitch.

PUNCH STITCHFig. 1 - work 2 straight stitches into the same place over 4 horizontal threads,then bring the thread out 4 threads down and 4 threads to the left in readiness

for the next stitch. Work along the row for the required length. Turn the fabricround for the next and each following row and work in the same way.Fig. 2 - shows the squares completed by turning the fabric sideways andworking in the same way. All stitches must be pulled firmly.

PUNCH STITCH (for canvas)Fig. 1 - work two straight stitches into the same place over four threads, thenbring the needle out four threads down and four threads to the left in readinessfor the next stitch. Work along the row in this way. Turn the fabric for next andevery successive row.

Fig. 2 - shows the squares completed by turning the fabric sideways andworking in the same way. All stitches must be pulled tightly.

QUARTER/THREE-QUARTER CROSSSTITCHFig. 1 - To work three-quarter stitch, stitch a half cross stitch in the usual way

then add a quarter stitch, bringing the needle down in the centre of the half cross stitch already worked. Work the stitch according to the position of thesymbol on the chart. Fig. 2 - Where two symbols are given on the chart, work a

three-quarter stitch as shown in Fig. 1, then add a quarter stitch in anothercolour to complete the cross stitch.

QUEEN STITCHThis is sometimes called roccocostitch and is a one version of many.

Said to have been invented by MaryQueen of Scots this little cluster looks

a bit like a crown. Work a straight stitch,as in 1 to 2. Catch in place with ahorizontal stitch as shown (3 to 4).

Repeat as in moves 5, 6, 7 and 8, tocomplete the first side. Work two morestitches to form a mirror image as in 9,10, 11 and 12, and 13, 14, 15 and 16

to complete the stitch.

RAISED CHAIN BANDWork the required number of foundation bars which are fairly closely spacedhorizontal straight stitches. Bring the th read through at A, then pass theneedle upwards under the centre of the fi rst bar and to the left of A. Withthe thread under the needle, pass the needle downwards to the right of A

and pull up the chain loop thus formed.

RAISED SATIN STITCHBefore working any embroidery in this area, draw a series of small

concentric shapes 1 mm inside the outline. Starting with smallest section inthe middle, fill the area with satin stitches, working across from edge toedge as shown in the diagram, coming up at A going down at B, taking a

small stitch to come up at C and down at D. This forms a satin stitch on thetop but running stitch on the reverse. Work each consecutive layer at adifferent angle over the top of the previous stitches until the shape is filledand well padded. Finish with a row of satin stitch.

RAISED STEM STITCH BANDLay 2 x 6 strands of thread over the area of the stem to form a foundation.Couch down this padding with a single strand of matching thread with a

uniform distance between each stitch. Each stitch should be at right anglesto the padding. Be careful not to pull these stitches too tightly. (Fig 1.)Cover the foundation threads by working vertical rows of stem stitch overthe straight couching stitches using one strand. Work each row of stem

stitch in the same direction, taking the ends through to the back of thework. (Fig 2.) Where possible, all stem stitch rows should share a commonhole at the end of the band to give a neat finish. The stem stitch rows shouldbe worked as closely together as possible so that none of the foundation

shows through. Fasten of securely by overcasting the ends on the wrongside.

REVERSED CUSHION STITCHSatin stitch squares are worked over 1, then 2, then 3, then 4, then 3, then

2, then 1 intersection, sloping from right to left. the next block is worked thesame way, but with the stitches sloping from left to right.



REVERSED MOSAIC STITCHReversed Mosaic is worked over 1, then 2, then 1 canvas intersections and thenrepeated. It makes a tiny square pattern, with the diagonal stitches running in

the opposite direction. Each square is completed before beginning the next one,working in horizontal rows across the desired shape and then back again.

REVERSED WAVE STITCHBring the thread out at the arrow. Pass the needle over 2 loose threads to the

left in the upper band of drawn threads and insert at A, bring out at B (4threads down and 2 threads to the right), insert at C (4 loose threads to theleft) and bring out at A (4 threads up and 2 threads to the right). Continue inthis way to the end of the row, finishing the upper edge with a stitch over 2

loose threads to balance with the beginning.

RHODES STITCHThis is an attractive raised filling stitch which covers a square of canvas with aneven number of threads. The working method is the same whatever the numberof canvas threads making up the square. Fig. 1 shows the constructions of aRhodes stitch over a square of 6 horizontal and 6 vertical threads. Bring the

thread through at A, insert the needle at B, bring through at C, i nsert at D,

bring through at E, insert at F. Continue in this way following the direction of the arrows, each stitch overlapping the previous stitch unti l the square is fill ed.Finish off with a small vertical straight stitch at centre taken through the layers

of thread and canvas as shown in Fig. 2. Make sure the vertical stitches are allworked in the same direction for an even effect.

RIBBED SPIDER'S WEB STITCHFirst make a foundation of an even number of spokes. We’ve used a doublecross stitch to give 8 spokes. (Fig. 1) Pass the thread under the four spokeswithout piercing the fabric and wrap the thread over and under the needle pointas shown (Fig. 2). Pull up the thread to form a central knot.

Pass the needle under two spokes and work a spiral of back stitch catching only

the spokes and without piercing the fabric (Fig. 3). Continue until the ring iscomplete. Take the thread through to the back of the work and fasten off.

RIBBON ROSECommence with a fly stitch to the centre of a circle using a strand of cotton asshown in Fig.1 then work two straight stitches into the centre of the circle, oneon each side of the fly stitch tail. this divides the circle into five equal sections

and the spokes for the foundation of the rose. Fasten off securely. Now, weaveover and under the spokes using the appropriate embroidery ribbon, as in Fig.2,until the circle is filled. Do not arrange the ribbon, instead allow it to twistnaturally.

RIBBON STITCHBring the ribbon up through the fabric at A and lay it along the top of thefabric in the desired direction of your stitch. When your stitch is the correct

length, pierce the ribbon with your needle and pull the ribbon through to theback of the fabric.

RICE STITCHWork a diagonal cross stitch over 4 horizontal and 4 vertical canvas threads(Fig. 1). Work small diagonal stitches at right angles over two canvasthreads over the corners of each cross stitch as shown in Fig. 2. These small

stitches can be worked in a contrasting thread of a different colour ortexture if preferred.

RINGED BACKSTITCHBring the thread through at A, insert it at B (two threads down) and bring it

out at C (4 threads up and two threads to the left) Fig 1.Insert the needle at A (2 threads down and 2 threads to the right) and bringit out at D (2 threads down and 4 threads to the left). Fig 2.

Insert the needle at C (2 threads to the right), and bring it out at E (2threads downs and 4 threads to the left). Fig 3.

Insert the needle at D (2 threads up and 2 threads to the right) and bring itdown at F (4 threads down and 2 threads to the left), to complete the half ring. Fig 4Continue working half rings as shown. Fig 5.

Turn the work through 180º and complete Figs 1-5 to complete the rings.For pulled work, remember topull



ROCOCO STITCHThis stitch is made up of four vertical stitches, each one crossed with a smallstitch. The first and last stitches anchor the group in place as the small stitches

are worked over the vertical stitch and the canvas.

ROMANIAN COUCHINGThis form of couching is useful for filling in large spaces in which a flat indefinitebackground is required. Bring the thread through on the left, carry the threadacross the space to be filled and t ake a small stitch on the right with the threadabove the needle (A). Take small stitches along the line at intervals, as in B and

C, to the end of the laid thread, emerging in position for the next stitch (D).

ROSE STITCHThis stitch forms a rose-shape when complete. Work a french knot in the centreand surround it by small straight stitches as shown

ROSETTE CHAIN STITCHBring the needle up at A, down at B and up at C (Fig. 1). Slip your needle underthe ribbon or thread (Fig. 2). Work this stitch singly or in a circle (Fig. 3).

RUNNING STITCHPass the needle over and under the fabric, making the upper stitches of equal

length. The under stitches should also be of equal length, but half the size orless of the upper stitches

SATIN STITCH (For Free Style)Satin stitch is made up of straight stitches worked closely together across the

shape, as shown in the diagram. FOR PADDED SATIN STITCH: If desired,running stitch or chain stitch may be worked first to form a padding

underneath, this gives a raised effect. Care must be taken to keep a goodedge. Do not make the stitches too l ong, otherwise they are liable to bepulled out of position. You may find it easier to keep a good angle on yourstitches if you lightly mark a clear line on your fabric, using tailor's chalk ora hard-leaded pencil.

SATIN STITCH VARIATIONS (For Canvas)Satin stitches are laid down parallel to each other. They can be placedvertically, horizontally or diagonally, and worked over the number of threadsof your choosing.

SCOTTISH STITCHBring the thread through at the top left corner of the square to be worked

and work A-B over one intersection of thread. Bring thread through at C andwork C-D over 2 intersections of thread. E-F is worked over 3 intersectionsand G-H over 4. Work I-J, K-L and M-N as shown. (Fig. 1.) Work three moresquare as shown leaving one thread of canvas between squares. (Fig 2.)

Work tent stitches over 1 horizontal and 1 vertical thread all round thesquares as shown (Fig. 3.)

SEEDINGThis simple filling stitch is composed of small straight stitches of equallength placed at random over the surface.

SHEAF STITCHAn attractive filling stitch consisting of five (or the number of your choosing)

vertical satin stitches tied across the centre with two horizontal overcastingstitches. (The overcasting stitches are worked round the satin stitch; theneedle only entering the fabric to pass on to the next sheaf.) This will workon fabric or on canvas

SIENNESE STITCHWork this stitch from left to right. Work a vertical straight stitch first. Thenext stitch, on the right of it, should be looped around the first stitch. Carry

on in this way.

SINGLE OR RANDOMCROSS STITCHThis stitch can be worked at

random, over as manythreads as the designrequires and also works wellon fabric for free-style

embroidery.Fig. 1 Brig the needlethrough at the arrow and inert the needle a A.

Bring the needle through at BFig 2 Take the needle through at C.This completes the single cross stitch.



SMYRNA CROSS STITCHThis stitch is also know as Leviathan Stitch, railway stitch and double cross

stitch. Work an ordinary cross stitch as in Fig. 1. Cover this cross stitch with anupright cross stitch as shown in Fig. 2 and 3.

SORBELLO STITCHThis can be used as a filling stitch and also as a substitute for cross stitch. Makea horizontal stitch at the top of the shape to be filled. The thread is thenbrought through at the bottom left-hand corner, looped under and over the

horizontal stitch as shown in Fig. 1, and taken through the fabric at the bottomright-hand corner (Fig. 2). The stitches can be worked close together to form aline or fill a shape (Fig. 3) or used individually.

SPANISH KNOTTED FEATHER STITCHBring the thread through and hold down to the left with the left thumb. Take aslanting stitch to the left through the fabric under the laid thread and pullthrough with the needle point over the working thread as shown at A. Pass the

thread over to the right and back to the left to form a loop and hold down, thentake a slanting stitch to the right under the laid thread and pull through withthe needle over the working thread B. Take a stitch in the same way to the leftC. Repeat B and C to the end of the line, then fasten off with a small stitch asshown at D.

SPIDER'S WEB STITCHCommence with a fly stitch to the centre of the circle as shown in A, then worktwo straight stitches, one on each side of the fly stitch tail. This divides thecircle into five sections and the 'spokes' form the foundation of the web. Weaveover and under the 'spokes', as at B, until the circle is filled.

SPLIT STITCH

Bring the thread through at A and make a small stitch over the line of thedesign, piercing the working thread with the needle as shown in the diagram. If you are working this stitch using two strands of thread, work in the same way,but instead of piercing the thread come up between two strands of thread. Split

stitch may be used as a filling where a fine, flat surface is required.

SQUARE FILET FILLING STITCHSecure the thread behind one of the corners surrounding the cut hole and,working clockwise around the hole, take it back down through the fabric in the

next corner, leaving the thread fairly loose so that a loop is formed across theside of the cut hole. Bring the needle back up through the hole, passing the

needle through the thread loop. Take the needle back down th rough the nextcorner, again leaving the thread fairly loose to form a soft loop. Continue

around the hole in this way until the square is complete.

STAB STITCHSecure material to a backing fabric by bringing your needle up through the

backing fabric at A and down through the material at B. Continue in this wayright round the edge of the shape.

STAR EYELET STITCHThis is primarily a canvas stitch used on single canvas but it can also be

successfully worked on an evenweave fabric, providing that a f ine thread isused. A filling stitch, i t makes a regular, geometric pattern of square blocks.Each block consists of straight stitches of graduated lengths, radiating from

the same central point. Around the outside of each square, the stitches canbe drawn through alternate holes, leaving two canvas threads unworked, orthrough every hole.

STAR STITCHAlso known as Algerian Eye Stitch it consists of eight straight stitches all

worked in to the same central point, forming a star within a square.

STEM STITCHWork from left to right, taking regular, small stitches along the line of thedesign. The thread always emerges on the left side of the previous stitch.This stitch is used for flower stems, outlines, etc. It can also be used as afilling, rows of stem stitch worked closely together within a shape until it is

filled completely.

STEPPED AND THREADED RUNNING STITCHThis stitch is a variation of ordinary running stitch and is worked on afoundation of two parallel rows of that stitch. The stitches are set alternatelyon the second row. A second thread is then laced from row to row withoutpicking up the ground fabric. Use a blunt-ended tapestry needle for the

threading to avoid splitting the running stitches.



STRAIGHT GOBELIN STITCHThere are two ways of working this stitch. For a close, hard-wearing effect, suchas for a cushion or chair seat, work a trammed stitch from left to right, thenwork straight stitches over the thread as shown. In the second method, the laidthread is omitted. The effect is similar to the first but the stitch is not ashardwearing.

STRAIGHT SATIN STITCH (for canvas)This stitch may be worked from right to left or left to right. The number of

threads over which the stitches are worked may vary, depending upon theeffect desired.

STRAIGHT STITCH (Also known as Single Satin Stitch)This is shown as single spaced stitches worked either in a regular or irregular

manner. Sometimes the stitches are of varying size. The stitches should beneither too long nor too loose. This stitch may also be worked on evenweavefabric.

TAILOR'S BUTTONHOLE STITCHThis is similar to ordinary buttonhole stitch but the knot gives it a stronger

edge.This is a hard-wearing stitch, which is good for heavy-weight fabrics.The extra loop of thread around the needle gives a firm knotted edge. All thestitches should be worked very close together with no fabric showing betweenthem. This way, the knots should l ie neatly next to each other.

For a more decorative finish, graduate the tail s to give an undulating curve or azig-zag.

TENT STITCH (petit point)The rows are worked from right to left and vice versa. Fig. 1 - bring the threadout at the right-hand side, work a stitch diagonally upwards over 1 canvasthread intersection, pass the needle diagonally downwards behind 1 horizontaland 2 vertical canvas threads and bring through in readiness for next stitch.Fig. 2 - the second row is worked from left to right, the direction of the stitches

is the same as the previous row but the needle is passed diagonally upwards.All stitches should slope in the same direction. The stitches on the reverse sideare longer and slope more than on the correct side.

TÊTE DE BOEUF STITCHThis stitch is formed by two straight stitches with a loop tied at the bottom.It looks a bit like fly stitch and detached chain stitch.Bring the thread through at A and make a short diagonal stitch to B. (Fig.

1).Bring the thread through at C and make another short diagonal stitch to Das shown. (Fig. 2).Bring the thread through at E between the two diagonal stitches and make a

loop, passing the thread under the needle as shown in Fig. 3 bringing theneedle through at F.Make a tying stitch by taking the thread through at G. (Fig. 4). This stitchcan be worked in a row (Fig. 5) or randomly for a free-style filling stitch.

THORN STITCHFig. 1 - Lay a thread along the line from A to B. Bring the thread through at

C and insert down and to the left at D. Bring the thread through at E levelwith C and insert it at F level with D.Fig.2 - From F, bring the needle through at G, level with the crossed threadsand insert at H, below D.

Fig3 - Bring the thread through at I , level with the crossed threads andinsert the needle at J making the second cross.Fig. 4 - Continue in this way until the line is complete.We have shown a straight line, but A – B could lie along a curve.

THREADED LACED HERRINGBONEThis is also known as Barred Witch Stitch. Work a row of herringbone stitch.A second thread is then is laced up and down through the herringbone as

shown. Take care not to pierce the fabric. Use a tapestry needle to avoidsplitting the thread. This stitch can be worked in a single colour or with acontrasting colour and thread.

THREADED TREBLE RUNNING STITCHThis is worked in t he same way as Laced Double Running Stitch, but three

rows of running stitch are worked on the foundation row.

THREE-QUARTER CROSS STITCHFig. 1 - To work three-quarter stitch, stitch a half cross stitch in the usualway then add a quarter stitch, bringing the needle down in the centre of the half cross stitch already worked. Work the stitch according to theposition of the symbol on the chart.

Fig. 2 - Where two symbols are given on the chart, work a three-quarterstitch as shown in Fig. 1, then add a quarter stitch in another colour tocomplete the cross stitch.



THREE-SIDED STITCHStart at A and work a diagonal stitch over the required number of threads

coming out at B. Repeat this to make a double back stitch. Bring the needle outat C the same number of threads apart as AB and insert at B, repeat to form

another double back stitch. Repeat from C to A, then work a double back stitchfrom A to D. Build up the sequence in this way.This stitch can either be used as a decorative border, an insertion stitch when joining lace or in pulled work.The triangles are outlined by working two back stitches on each side. All must

be of equal size to give the correct effect.

TIED WINDMILL STITCHBring the needle through at 1, insert it at 2 (8 threads up) and bring it outagain at 3 (7 threads down and one thread to the left), insert at 4 (6 threads upand 2 threads to the right). Continue until stage 12 has been worked. Tie down

with a cross stitch (this can sometimes be in a contrasting colour) workingstages A - D.

TRAMMINGTramming threads are not visible on a finished piece of canvaswork. They are

threads which are laid down along the line of stitching and the stitches of yourchoice are worked over them. This strengthens the f inished piece or can beused to give a raised effect to your work.

TRELLIS COUCHINGTrellis Couching is a laid-work stitch used for filling areas on plain andevenweave fabrics. It is essential to work this stitch in an embroidery hoop orframe to ensure an even tension. Fill the shape with a foundation of laidstitches worked in two journeys, working the stitches evenly and ensuring they

completely cover the ground fabric. Work the trellis threads at an angle to thefoundation stitches. The trellis threads are then couched down at theintersections using a tiny straight stitch or a cross stitch for variation.

TRELLIS FILLING STITCH (forneedlelace)Firstly, outline your desired shape with an

evenly-spaced chain stitch. This will make afoundation row with which to attach thefilling. Work the first row of the filling intothe chain stitch at the top of the shape by

making alternate loops and knots from leftto right. Tighten the knots beforeproceeding to the next loop by pulling the

work thread to the right. When the edge is reached, and without entering thefabric, take the thread down to the next chain stitch and continue the knots and

loops in the other direction. This row and all following rows are worked into theloops of the row before. When the lower edge is reached, work the last row of loops through the chain stitch to attach it firmly.

TRELLIS STITCHLay a foundation of threads lying in one direction then work the threads in

the opposite direction at right angles. With a contrasting thread work long

stitches diagonally across the lattice then work a tying stitch at all theintersecting points.

TURKEY RUG KNOT STITCHThis stitch makes a series of closely-workedloops which are cut and trimmed after the

stitching is finished to give a pile whichresembles the pile of a carpet. The loopsshould be worked round a pencil or largeknitting needle to keep the size constant.

Each loop is secured by a back stitch (as shown). Each row is worked abovethe preceding row - keep the rows as close together as possible.

TWILL STITCHWork vertical stitches over three horizontalcanvas threads, stepping down one thread

with each successive stitch in a diagonal line.

The next row can be worked up f rom thebottom. Although the back looks different, the stitches on the front of thework look even.

TWISTED BARSBring the thread through the remaining fabric at the centre where theovercast bars meet. Take the needle back through to the wrong side at the

point where the other end of the bar is to be placed, and bring it back upthrough the cut hole. This diagonal strand of thread forms the basis of thetwisted bar. Take a stitch under the diagonal thread so that the thread twistsaround. Continue in this way until the thread is covered. Take the needleand thread back to the wrong side at the original starting point and fasten

off. Complete the remaining twisted bars in the same way.

TWISTED CHAIN STITCH

Twisted chain stitch is worked in a similar way to chain stitch but

instead of inserting the needle where it last emerged, a downward stitch is

done following the line of the design. Keep your working thread under t hepoint of the needle.

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TWISTED INSERTION STITCHThis stitch is also known as faggoting. Stitch alternatively into each edge of the

fabric, catching a loop of thread as shown. The finished stitches form adecorative zig-zag effect.

TWISTED LATTICE BAND

Work a row of double herringbone stitch, making sure

the stitches are not too tight. (The lacing will tighten the stitches.) Work thelacing in a contrasting thread and/or colour in two journeys from left to rightand then back again, taking care not to pick up any of the ground fabric. Use a

tapestry needle to prevent splitting the thread of the foundation row.

TWO-TONE HERRINGBONE MULTIPLAITUsing the base thread, fill in the outer corner areas in Diagram 1 using diagonalsatin stitch. The area should now look like Diagram 2. Using the top thread andfollowing Diagrams 3, 4 and 5, work a diagonal cross stitch across the centreholes, bringing thread up at 1, down at 2, up at 3 then down at 4. Now startworking outwards, taking small back stitches across the unfi lled area (turn work

for every stitch if you find it easier), until the whole area is filled as shown inDiagram 6.

UP ANDDOWN

BUTTONHOLE STITCH

Fig. A - commence as for ordinary buttonhole stitch and pull thread through.Fig. B - insert the needle on the bottom line and take a straight upwardstitch with the thread under the needle point. Pull thread through first in anupward movement, then downwards to continue. This stitch may also beworked on evenweave fabric.

UPRIGHT CROSS STITCHThis form of cross stitch is worked with a vertical and horizontal stitch. Likeordinary cross stitch it is important that the upper half of all the crosses liein the same direction. The stitches can be worked diagonally across the

canvas, or in a horizontal or vertical line.

VANDYKEBring the needle up through the fabric at A. Take a small horizontal stitchfrom right to left at B and insert the needle at C. Bring the thread through atD. Without piercing the fabric, pass the needle under the crossed threads atB and insert at E. Carry on in this way. Do not pull the stitches too tightly,

otherwise the regularity of the centre plait will be lost.

VELVET STITCHThis stitch resembles the pile of a carpet. It is worked from left to right in

rows working from the bottom upwards. Bring the thread through at arrow

and insert the needle at A (2 threads up and 2 threads to the right), bringout again at the arrow; re-insert the needle at A leaving a l oop of thread atthe bottom (the loops may be worked over a thick knitting needle to

regulate the length). Bring the needle out at B (2 threads down), insert at C(2 threads up and 2 threads to the left), bring out again at B, ready for thenext stitch. After all the rows have been worked, cut the loops evenly todesired length. Be careful not to trim the tufts too short.

WAVE FILLING STITCHFig. 1 - bring the thread out at the arrow, insert t he needle at A (4 threadsup and 2 threads to the right) and bring through at B (4 threads to the left),insert at arrow and bring through at C (4 threads to the left). Continue inthis way to the end of the row. Fig 2. - turn the fabric round before

commencing second and following rows and work in the same way into thesame holes in each preceding row to form diamond shapes. All stitches mustbe pulled firmly.

WHEATEAR Work two straight stitches at A and B. Bring the thread through below these

stitches at C and pass the needle under the two straight stitches withoutentering the fabric. Insert the needle at C and bring it through at D .

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WHIPPED BACK STITCHThis stitch is worked from right to left and is generally used in blackwork

embroidery for outlining a design. Work back stitch first, then with anotherthread in the needle, whip over each back stitch without entering the fabric.

WHIPPED BAR STITCHThis bar can also be used in drawn-thread embroidery. To work the overcastbars, withdraw the number of threads required f rom the fabric and separate the

loose threads into bars by overcasting firmly over these threads as many timesas required to cover the group of threads completely. Any stitch can beovercast in this way.

WHIPPED CHAIN STITCHWork chain stitch in the usual way, then with another thread in the needle,

whip over the chain stitch without entering the fabric.

WHIPPED FLY STITCHA row of vertical fly stitch is worked with the tying stitch almost touching the

centre of the V. A complimentary thread is used to whip the tying stitches asshown. Use a tapestry needle to help avoid picking up any of the fabric and toavoid splitting the thread of the original fly stitch.

WHIPPED SPIDER'S WEB STITCHCarry the thread diagonally across the section cut away, entering the fabric asshown on diagram, twisting the thread over the first thread as required back to

the starting point.Bring the needle up to the l eft of a woven bar. Take it back over the bar thenunder the same bar and the next laid thread. Take the needle back over the laidthread then under the laid thread and the next woven bar on the left. Use the

point of the needle to push the woven thread towards the centre, wherenecessary, for a smooth effect. Continue in this manner working the web in aclockwise direction until the web is 1 or 2 mm from the edge of the square.

Fasten off on the underside of the weaving. The last diagram shows the f inishedeffect.

WHIPPED STEM STITCHA foundation row of stem stitch is worked first, then a second thread is

whipped over the line without picking up any ground fabric.

WHIPPED STITCH (for ribbonwork)Bring the ribbon up through the fabric at A, make a small stitch and bringthe needle down through the fabric at B and up again at C (Fig. 1). Wrap theribbon twice around this stitch finishing at B (Fig. 2), then twice in the other

direction finishing at A. Go down through the fabric at A to finish off. Workthese whipped stitches in a circular formation, working the stitches innumerical order to form a bud shape (Fig. 3).

WIDE INTERLACINGWork two rows of vertical straightstitches (shown in Red on the diagram) alternately spaced across the widthof the piece. Work the interlacing stitch (in Blue) by starting centrally at theleft, taking the needle back under the first stitch on the lower row then, fromright to left under the first stitch of the upper row. Work in this way along

the whole row, ending centrally at the right-hand side.

WOVEN BARSUsed for Hardanger and pulled thread techniques.

Withdraw an even number of threads from the fabric and separate the loosethreads into bars by weaving over and under an even number of threadsuntil the threads are completely covered.

WOVEN BARS WITH PICOTS IN POST STITCHBring the thread out at the arrow, insert 3 threads to the left and bring outat A, insert 3 threads to the right. Continue in this way until there are three

woven stitches (6 stitches) in all. To form the post stitch on the fourth bar(7th stitch) twist the thread twice round the needle in a clockwise directionand insert as shown in the diagram.Hold the twisted threads firmly in position with left thumb while still on theneedle and push needle through to form a knot. Turn fabric so that

completed knot is to left-hand side, work a second knot in the same way,this time the previous knot and twisted thread on the needle are both heldfirmly in position beneath left thumb. Now, pull the needle through to formthe knot. Complete by working three more woven stitches (6 stitches).

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ZIG-ZAG HEMSTITCHThis variation is worked in the same way as hemstitch, but there must be aneven number of threads in each group of loose threads caught together in the

first row. In the second row, the groups are divided in half, so that each groupis composed of half the number of threads from one group and half from theadjacent group. A half group starts and ends the second row.

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