3

The Canadian CharolaisAssociation’s members arepleased to present this edition

of the Into the Ring informationalguide in support of Junior and 4Hmembers, as a tool to assist withheifer and steer calf projects. Wecommunicated with a group of beefindustry professionals and askedthem for their opinions in areas oftheir personal expertise, relating tothe various steps required incompleting successful beef cattleprojects. These views are presented inthis handbook. Readers should notethat these opinions are notnecessarily the only essentialtechniques available in achievingsuccess with beef cattle projects,and although we obviously refer to Charolais influenced animalsthroughout the handbook, theinformation applies to all beef cattle projects.

A 4H beef project can be a daunting

task especially for young participantsundertaking a beef project for the firsttime, so the purpose of this handbookis to educate and inform young beefcattle enthusiasts by providingpractical, hands-on information tohelp in his or her initial efforts withheifer and steer projects.

The course of action in the selectionof a beef calf project can varyconsiderably between members in thesame club or the same beef breedorganization. Some young cattlemenmay have the ability to purchasedesigner calves through club sales,while the majority will pick a calffrom a family herd or a respectedneighbor’s herd. Either way thechallenge is to try and predict howthe calf will match its intendedobjectives at the end of the project.

A reality that should not beoverlooked is that competition is anintegral part of these beef cattle

projects and the quest to place welland sell high, is a joyful occasion forthose who experience the feeling.However, it is just as important toenjoy working with a calf in a one-on-one relationship and enjoy thecamaraderie of working with fellowclub and youth members.

In closing, the members of theCharolais Association hope that thishandbook will offer some usefulinsight into the business of selecting,feeding and preparing your beef calfproject. If more handbooks arerequired please contact theAssociation at www.charolais.com andwe will endeavor to fill your request.

Good luck and enjoy your beef cattleproject experience

Neil Gillies – General Manager,Canadian Charolais Association

Heifer & Steer Selection..................4

Basic Nutrition ................................6

Halter Breaking..............................11

Making a Rope Halter ..................13

Washing ........................................14

Blow Drying ..................................17

Clipping ........................................18

Fitting ............................................21

Showing ........................................24

Showmanship ................................26

On Marketing Your Project Steer....28

Anatomy of the Beef Animal ........29

Parts of the Beef Animal ................29

Glossary ........................................30

‘Into the Ring’ was published by theCharolais Banner Inc. in co-operationwith the Canadian CharolaisAssociation. No aspect of this bookletmay be reprinted without consentfrom the publisher. Additional copiesof this guide may be obtained fromthe Canadian Charolais Association.

Cover: T Bar C Cattle Co.

All inside photos: Craig Scott

Fitting Demo: Scott and Cole Harvie,Harvie Ranching, Olds, AB

Special thanks to the Olds Ag Societyfor use of their facilities for the fitting demonstration, and all thecontributing writers.

Canadian Charolais Association2320 41st Avenue N.E.Calgary, Alberta T2E 6W8Phone: 403-250-9242Fax: 403-291-9324email: cca@charolais.comhome page: www.charolais.com

Charolais Banner1, 2241 Albert StreetRegina, Saskatchewan S4S 5B1Phone: 306-546-3940Fax: 306-546-3942email: charolaisbanner@sasktel.nethome page: www.charolaisbanner.com

INDEX – INTO THE RING

GREETINGS FROM THECANADIAN CHAROLAISASSOCIATIONNeil Gillies

4

BEEF CATTLE SELECTIONThe ideal beef animal is acombination of many factors.Emphasis has been put on a variety ofdifferent traits over the past 40 yearschanging the cattle from small, overlyfat cattle to a bigger more muscularcattle. As a judge of beef cattle, it isimportant to note a balance of traitsthat needs to be selected to have awell-balanced animal that isproportionately correct.

Cattle, both breeding and market,should first be structurally sound.The figure below depicts the ideal

breeding female. Note thestraightness of lines, yet she possesses the correct angulation toher shoulder, hip, hock and pasterns.These correct angles will allow theheifer to move in a fluid manner,taking a long, free, easy moving stride.If the lines where the bones are werestraighter, then the animal would berestricted in its movement.

Cattle that are extremely straightmove on a short stride and set theirfeet down hard. Feet and legplacement should be square on alarge hoof. Extremely curved legs are

also called sickle hocked because theyresemble a sickle. Sickle hocked cattletend to walk underneath themselvesand are uncoordinated in theirmovement. Bowlegged cattle havehocks that point outward and alsomove on a short stride. Cattle that arecow hocked are in at their hocks andtheir feet point outward.Abnormalities of the front legs arealso important. When an animal hasincorrect leg and feet placement, thisaffects their movement greatly. Theseanimals often hold their head lowerand move on a short stride.

HEIFER AND STEER SELECTION

Strong, level,thick top

Long, square,level rump Long, wide loin

Wellsprung

ribsSmooth

shoulders

Long, leanneck

Long, smooth,thick muscle

Trimmiddle Deep

forerib

Femininehead

Strong pasterns

Placement of feetand legs shoud besquare and correct

Trim, neatthroat, dewlap

and brisket

FEMALE DESIGNA female should possess thosecharacteristics that are ideal to afemale. The neck is long and thinwith a feminine head. Her body has a

broody appearance with well sprungribs. Females should have a correctamount of muscle. Far too often somecows are bred to have excessiveamounts of muscle and become verycoarse in their appearance. These

females often do not milk as well andmay not have the longevity of cowswhich are more feminine. Femalesshould flesh easily on an adequateamount of feed and not be narrow orhard fleshing cattle.

5

MARKET ANIMAL DESIGNJust as breeding cattle have changedand progressed over the years, marketcattle also have changed from cattlethat were excessively fat in the 50s, toexcessively large-framed cattle in theearly 80s, to a more modestly framed,muscular steer of the 90s.

The ideal market steer should be astout, fast growing animal that isheavy muscled and carries aminimum amount of outside fat.From the side, the ideal steer should

be free of extra leather in the throatarea and have a clean, neat brisketand dewlap. The middle should betrim with a clean, long underline. Theflank should not be excessively tight,nor should it be excessively deep assome judges prefer it “today”. Extradepth and excessive fullness to theflank is nothing but waste fat. Theanimal should have a muscularforearm, a thick, strong muscular top,and a long,level, wide rump. Thequarter should be long and deep with

flare and expression throughout.Structural correctness should beemphasized just as it is in a breedinganimal. Market animals should movein a free, easy manner and standsquare and straight on their feet and legs.

The object of all market animals is toproduce a carcass that results in themaximum amount of lean red meatyield, with a minimum amount ofwaste fat.

Thick, strong,level top

Long, level, wide,full rump

Wide, deep loin

Long, deep, thickmuscular quarter

Trim middle

Well sprungribs

Smoothshoulders

Long neck

Deep forerib

Adequatebone

Strong pasterns

Trim, neatthroat, dewlap

and brisket

Placement of feetand legs shoud besquare and correct

6

BASIC NUTRITION ANDFEEDING CONCEPTS FORJUNIOR BEEF CATTLEEXHIBITORSDr. Aaron Grant

So, you’ve decided to join a JuniorBeef Breed Association or 4-HBeef Club. Way to go! You’ve

now entered the exciting world ofcaring for, feeding, training, andshowing beef cattle, as well as meetingmany new friends and learning somevery important life lessons along theway. This article will touch on some ofthe basic strategies to use whenselecting, raising, and feeding steer andheifer projects.

SHOW STEER BASICSCHOOSING YOUR STEERDetermine a Weight Range of SteerCalves to Choose FromPart of what judges look for on showday is the appropriateness of a steer’ssize and market weight. Therefore,before you buy a calf, it is importantto make some estimates of theirperformance, size, and market weight.An ideally finished market steershould weigh between 1150 and 1350lb. and possess 8-12 mm of backfaton show day. A good formula to usein choosing a calf of an appropriatesize and weight is given below.Example: If possible, taking a framesize measurement of a calf before youbuy it is a good idea. Steers between 6to 8 months of age should be 44 to48 inches tall (when measured fromhip to ground) to finish at a desirableweight. By making sure your calf iswithin this height range at this age,you may stop yourself from buying acalf that may be too small or too bigat finish. Next, figure out the numberof days you will be feeding the steerby counting the number of days fromthe date of purchase to the show day.For example, from November 1st(theoretical date of purchase) to June

8th (theoretical show day) there are220 days on feed. If fed correctly,most steers should gain between 2.75and 3.5 pounds per day (lb/d).Therefore, if you want the steer youbuy to weigh 1300 lb. on show day,you must calculate his total weightgain by multiplying 220 days on feedby an estimated daily gain (3.0 lb/d) =660 lb. Then, take the calf’s estimatedfinished weight and subtract itsestimated weight gain to come upwith an approximate purchase weight:1300 lb. (finished weight) – 660 lb.(total weight gain) = 640 lb. (Purchaseweight). So, in this case you shouldsearch for a steer that weighs roughly650 lb. Experience is always helpful inpredicting what steer calves ofdifferent frame sizes and breed-typeswill gain per day and weigh whenthey are finished. Therefore, asking aparent or knowledgeable person tohelp you in estimating your steer’sdaily gain and finished weight isalways a good idea.

OTHER IMPORTANTINFORMATION If purchasing a steer calf, it is veryimportant to find out as much aspossible abouthim before youbuy him. Somegood questionsto ask are:How long hashe beenweaned?Whatvaccinationshas he had?What type offeed is he usedto eating?Has he been

implanted? Has he ever been sick, and if so, whattreatments has he had?All of these questions are veryimportant in helping you determinewhat your steer may need to stayhealthy as well as what type of feed(s)may be used to start him on feedquickly and easily.

FEEDING YOUR STEERBefore you decide on what you aregoing to feed your steer there are afew points that you need to consider.Feeding your steer yourself helps youlearn about raising your calf andtends to help tame them more thanhaving someone else feed it for you.Feed your steer 2 times per day ratherthan once as this will keep the feedfresh and should increase the amountof feed your calf will eat per day.Feed your steer in a pen along with atleast one pen mate (another steer ofsimilar weight) as this encouragesthem to eat more and also helps keepthem calm.Check the water bowl in your steer’spen every day and keep it as clean aspossible as this will help keep themhealthy as well as encourage them to

eat more feed.Make sure your calf is kept in a cleanpen that is free of mud and has plentyof bedding to help him stay clean,healthy, and warm. Muddy, poorlybedded pens are bad for your calf’shair coat and can reduce his averagedaily gain.Depending on your feeding program,only feed your calf the amount offeed you want him to eat, or feed himexactly what he can eat each day,without overfeeding him. Overfeedingcan cause stomach problems likebloat or acidosis.Remove old, stale feed from thefeeder(s) often as stale feed willbecome moldy, smells bad, and willreduce your calf’s feed intake.

TYPES OF FEEDSCattle feeds may be classified as grains,proteins, roughages, concentrates,minerals, vitamins, and feed additives.

Grain: Grain is high in energy andtherefore has a huge impact on thegrowth and fattening of your showsteer. Barley and corn are the mostcommon grains fed to cattle but somerations may also include wheat andoats. Although the different types ofgrains vary in their energy content, itis the energy density of the diet, notalways the type of grain being fed,that needs to be considered whenfeeding your steer. Feeding highquality grains that are properlyprocessed is a key factor when itcomes to energy utilization by theanimal. Barley and wheat are bestdigested and absorbed by the animalwhen rolled, while oats and corn caneither be rolled or fed wholedepending on the situation.Protein: Growing/Fattening cattleneed to be fed adequate amounts ofprotein to encourage proper feed

digestion as well as bone and muscledevelopment. Along with the proteincontributed by the feedstuffs includedin cattle rations, protein is alsonormally added to the diet in theform of a commercialprotein/mineral/vitamin supplement.Some common protein sources thatmay be included as feedstuffs orcomponents within commercialsupplements are canola meal andsoybean meal as well as byproductssuch as distiller’s grains. Urea canalso be used as a protein source incattle diets as rumen microbes arecapable of converting the nitrogencontained within urea into protein.Roughages: Silage and hay are themain roughage sources fed to cattle.Roughages contribute a portion ofthe animals’ energy and proteinrequirements and also serve to reducethe chance of digestive upsets such as

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bloat or acidosis. As roughages mayvary greatly in type and quality (alfalfahay vs. grass hay vs. silage etc.), it isvery important to keep the type andquality of roughage consistentthroughout the feeding period inorder to avoid any digestive problems.Concentrates: Concentrates such asmolasses, fats, oils, and many differentbyproducts may be used in cattlerations to increase the energy and (or)protein density of the diet. Productssuch as molasses or different types ofoils can also aid in reducing theamount of dust or feed particleseparation, as well as add a goodflavor or taste to rations. As theseproducts also vary in type, quality,and consistency, it is important tohave a good knowledge of them priorto feeding them to your steer.Minerals: Minerals are required forbone and tissue development as wellas all major physiological processes inthe body. Cattle that do not receivethe proper amount and type ofminerals will not grow as well andmay be less healthy than those that do. Minerals can be classifiedinto macro and micro minerals.Macro-minerals include: Calcium,Phosphorus, Magnesium, Potassium,and Salt. These must be fed at acertain percentage within the dieteach day for your calf to grow andfinish properly. Your steer alsorequires many different micro-minerals each day but these areneeded in smaller (parts per million)amounts. To meet your calf’s mineralrequirements, they are normallyincluded in the diet along withprotein and vitamins in the form of acommercial protein/mineral/vitaminsupplement.Vitamins: Vitamins are essential tothe general health, maintenance, andgrowth of your calf. Vitamins may beclassified into two categories: fat-soluble and water-soluble. The fat-soluble vitamins include vitamins A,D, E, and K, while the water solublevitamins include vitamins B and C.Although the daily requirementsamong vitamins vary, they arenormally included in the proper

amounts within the commercialprotein/mineral/vitamin supplementto satisfy your calf’s needs.Feed Additives: A feed additive maybe classified as any commercialproduct that can be added to a dietthat improves an animal’s growthand/or health. Although there are too many to mention in this article,some common feed additives used in finishing cattle diets includeantibiotics and ionophores.

Antibiotics (medicine) may beincluded in a ration to keep your calfhealthy in times of stress. Ionophoressuch as monensin or lasalocid arenormally fed to improve an animal’sfeed efficiency. Although some ofthese feed additives may be addeddirectly to cattle rations, most can beincluded in the proper amountswithin commercial protein/mineral/vitamin supplements.Commercial Supplements andComplete Rations: When feedingyour show steer/heifer, it is veryimportant to meet all of their nutrientrequirements. As stated above,commercial protein/mineral/vitaminsupplements (formulated by a BeefCattle Nutritionist) can be includedon a percentage basis within yourcalf’s ration to aid in providing thecorrect amount of protein, minerals,vitamins, and feed additives. As theingredients within a supplement willvary depending on the types of

feedstuffs being fed, it is always bestto talk to a Nutritionist or feedcompany about providing theappropriate supplement to your calf.Supplements may be added to cattlediets in liquid, pelleted, or granularform. Feed companies alsomanufacture complete show cattlerations which are comprised of thecorrect percentages of grain, protein,minerals, vitamins, and feed additivesto meet your calf’s needs. When theserations are fed along with theappropriate amount of roughage, thenutrient requirements of your calfshould be met.

FEEDING PHASES AND TYPESOF RATIONS FOR FINISHINGCATTLEThere are 3 main phases when itcomes to feeding show steers(Starting, Growing, and Finishing).“Holding” is another phase that canbe used from time to time when yoursteer has fattened too quickly andthus must be fed a lower energy dietto ensure he is not overfat on showday. Each of these phases requiresslightly different rations which willenable your calf to grow as optimallyas possible. The amount of time spentin each one of these feeding phasesdepends greatly on the growth,health, breed-type, and frame size ofyour calf.Starting: Getting your steer off to theright start is a very important factor inproper feeding management. Starterrations are formulated to provideenergy, protein, minerals, andvitamins in the correct quantities tosatisfy the requirements of calves thatare not used to eating different typesof feeds and/or may be stressed dueto weaning. Below are some tips onthe types and quantities of feed thatstarting cattle normally eat.Feed as much good-quality, grassy-type hay as your calf will eat alongwith 0.5 to 0.75% of your calf’s bodyweight of a starter ration for the firstfew days of feeding.If your starter ration includes hay orsilage, you may gradually decrease theamount of grassy hay fed to yoursteer and increase the amount of

“...to ensure that they are

properly finished,most steers

should normallybe on a finishingration for 100 to150 days prior to show day.”

9

starter ration being fed over the next5-7 days until the grassy hay iscompletely eliminated.If you are feeding a commerciallyprepared ration, start your calf off byfeeding free-choice hay along with 0.5lb. ration per 100 lb. of body weight.Growing: Growing diets are normallyformulated for cattle that rangebetween 400 and 900 lb. that havepreviously been fed a starter ration foran appropriate period of time.Growing diets are normally fed freechoice and are moderate in energy toproperly develop an animal’s framesize and muscle before moving themto a finishing ration. Growing dietsmay be formulated for differentamounts of gain (normally between1.5 and 2.5 lb/day) and for differentamounts of time depending on theframe size and maturity pattern ofyour calf. As previous experience isthe key to knowing how long, and forwhat target average daily gain a calfshould be fed a grower diet,consulting with an experienced cattlefeeder, Nutritionist, or feed companyis always a good suggestion.Finishing: Finishing rations aredesigned to be high in energy whichhelps to increase average daily gain,muscle, and fat deposition. Mostfinishing rations are low in roughages(10% to 30%) and high in grain (70%to 90%). It is important to be carefulwhen moving cattle from starter orgrower rations to finishing rations asif you move your calf up to afinishing ration too quickly your steerwill not be able to handle the highamount of grain in the diet and maybecome sick (bloat and(or) acidosis)as a result. The amount of time steersshould be on a finishing diet will varyaccording to breed type and framesize. However, to ensure that they areproperly finished, most steers shouldnormally be on a finishing ration for100 to 150 days prior to show day.Table 1 and Table 2 provide examplesof different types of rations that canbe used in feeding finishing steers.These are to be used as examplesonly, as changes in types of feeds andingredients will affect the rations and

ultimately the performance of yourcalf. Always check with a Nutritionistor feed company to ensure you arefeeding your calf a balanced diet inthe correct amounts.

Table 1 describes a typical set ofrations for steer calves fed for 220days if you have the capability to mixthe feed ingredients with a feed truckor wagon. Also listed is theapproximate number of days a calfwould be on each example ration ashe is moved from the starter, to thegrower, to the intermediate (F1, F2,F3), and finally to the top finishingration (F4). In this example the steerwould be allowed to eat as much ashe would like each day as long as heis not overfed. Using this feedingsystem, care must be taken whenchanging from one ration to anotherto give your calf time to adjust to thehigher amounts of barley being fed.Remember, the specific rations youfeed at home, and the number of daysyou feed each ration, may vary greatlydepending on the nutrients suppliedby each ration ingredient, as well asthe calf’s breed type, frame size, anddegree of fatness.Table 2 is an example of how to feeda steer when using a commerciallyprepared, high-grain feed thatincludes all of the protein, minerals,and vitamins necessary to meet theanimals’ needs. The pounds ofcommercial ration to feed each dayare listed as lb. per 100 lb. of bodyweight (BW). So, if you want to feed asteer 2 lb./100 lb. BW of thecommercial ration and your steerweighs 600 lb., take 2 lb x 6 (600 ÷100) = 12 lb. of feed/day. Also, listed isthe approximate number of days a

calf would be in each feeding phase ifthere were 220 days on feed from thetime of purchase to the show date.Care must be taken when increasingthe amount of commercial ration

given to your calf in order for it tohave time to adjust to the greateramounts of ration being fed.Remember, the specific type ofcomplete ration you feed, and thenumber of days an animal should bekept in each feeding phase, will varygreatly depending on the nutrientssupplied by the ration, as well as thecalf’s breed type, frame size, anddegree of fatness.Holding: Buying the right weight ofcalf and feeding them appropriatelyfor their frame size and breed-typeshould reduce the likelihood ofhaving an overfinished orunderfinished steer. However, if youknow your steer will be too fat for theshow and you still have some daysleft before show day, the best advice isto increase the percentage ofroughage in the diet and reduce theamount of grain. If we use Table 1 asan example, we may move the steerfrom an F4 ration back to an F3 or F2ration in order to slow their fatdevelopment. If using Table 2 as anexample, we would likely reduce theamount of commercial ration the calfis being fed while increasing theamount of hay. Holding a steer for anupcoming show is not easy andrequires experience and skill. So, ifyou expect your calf may beoverfinished by show day but don’tknow exactly what to do, asksomeone with experience to help youdevise a plan on how to reduce therate of growth and fat development ofyour calf.

INGREDIENTS STARTER GROWER F1 F2 F3 F4Dry Rolled Barley 27.0% 31.0% 37.0% 49.0% 61.0% 72.0%Commercial Supp. (pellet) 2.0% 2.0% 3.0% 3.0% 3.0% 3.0%Barley Silage 71.0% 67.0% 60.0% 48.0% 36.0% 25.0%Approx. Days on Ration 14 60 8 8 8 122

TAB

LE1

INGREDIENTS STARTING GROWING FINISHINGCommercial Ration 0.5 to 1 lb/100 lb BW 1 to 2 lb/100 lb BW 2 to 4 lb/100 lb BW

or Free ChoiceHay Free Choice Free Choice 2 to 5 lb/dayApprox. Days on Ration 14 60 146

TAB

LE2

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SHOW HEIFER BASICSWhen picking out or purchasing yourheifer you will need to consider somevery important factors that willinfluence how she will be judged atthe fair. Heifers aredifferent fromsteers in that theyare judgedprimarily onstructuralsoundness,balance, muscle,and volume.Therefore, pickingout the right heiferin the fall is veryimportant to howsuccessful you willbe at the show inthe spring.However, theweight a heiferneeds to be on show day is morerelated to her age than it is a targetweight for the particular day.

FEEDING YOUR SHOW HEIFERFeeding show heifers is a somewhatdifferent process than feeding showsteers, as the objective is to growthem for optimum reproductivedevelopment rather than finish themfor slaughter. There is no ideal weightrange for heifers to be successful inthe show ring. What is moreimportant is that heifers are fedappropriately for their given age,frame size, and breed-type. If aheifer is not fed enough for hergiven genetics, the potential existsfor her not to breed at an optimalage. Alternatively, if a heifer gets toofat, she may loose a great deal ofher potential for future milkproduction. Some helpful hints infeeding your heifer project correctlyare listed below:For optimal reproductiveperformance, heifers should weighat least 65% of their mature weightat breeding time (15 months ofage). Therefore, to determine whatyour heifer needs to gain per day,estimate the mature weight of yourheifer when you purchase her in thefall and multiply that weight by

0.65. Then, back calculate using thedays on feed to determine what yourheifer needs to gain to reach hertarget breeding age weight.Example: On November 1st a 550 lb.

exotic cross-bredheifer calf born onMarch 1st is 7months old. Aheifer calf with thisgenetic makeupshould weigh 1,500lb. at maturity.Therefore, 1,500 lb.x 0.65 = 975 lb.(Target weight at 15months of age).From November1st to July 1st (15months of age)there are 242 days.975 lb. – 550 lb. =425 lb. of weight

gain required. 425 lb. ÷ 242 days =1.75 lb/d. Thus, your heifer needs togain at least 1.75 lb/d to reach hertarget breeding weight at theappropriate age. This will give you agood target estimate as to how wellyour heifer calf is gaining throughoutthe feeding period.Although the above example sets agood standard to go by, one mustremember that each heifer differsgreatly in their rate of growth. Also, tobe successful in the show ring, showheifers are usually required to gain

more and have a greater amount offat cover than ordinary replacementheifers. So, to reach an optimumamount of condition for show, aheifer may need to gain anywherebetween 2.0 to 2.5 lb/day. Therefore,feeding a growing diet like those inTable 1 or Table 2 (after feeding thecorrect starter rations for theappropriate amount of time) wouldlikely be adequate for a show heifer.SUMMARYThis article provides some basic toolsand information regarding theselection and feeding/nutrition of beefcattle project(s) for young andupcoming cattlepersons. Pleaseremember when reading this articlethat the example rations are just that!They are not intended to be used inthe literal sense, as every animal isdifferent and ration composition andfeedstuff characteristics are alwayssubject to change. Consulting with aNutritionist, experienced cattle feeder,or feed company when it comes todesigning specific rations for yourproject(s) is always a good idea.Always keep in mind; the morequestions you ask the better, so don’tbe afraid to talk to as many people aspossible about any topic related tofeeding or showing your calves. Goodluck and most importantly, Have Fun!Dr. Aaron Grant is an Independent ConsultingBeef Cattle Nutritionist with Nutrition ServiceAssociates in Okotoks, Alberta.

“There is noideal weight

range forheifers to besuccessful in

the show ring.”

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HALTER BREAKINGCraig Flewelling

Have you ever imaginedexhibiting the GrandChampion at your local fair?

Do you raise purebred livestock,either as a business or a hobby? Doyou have competitive genes flowingthrough your veins as well as thedesire to compare your cattle withthose of your peers? If you do, thenyou will know that there is no greaterfeeling than being awarded theChampionship honour.

There are basically three things thathave to coincide to make aChampion. First of all, you must havethe goods. The animal that you areexhibiting must be worthy of beingnamed Champion. Second, you musthave luck. A little bit of luck on yourside helps to make things possible. Inthese times of rapid technology andbreed advancement, as well asstronger breeding establishments,competition is much more equal. Itsometimes seems that luck is thedeciding factor. Third, it takes a lot ofhard work to achieve the maximumpotential of your animal. If you areconsidering winning a championship,you must realize that maximumpotential because the competitiontoday is so competitive, and they haveso much ability that you can beassured they will realize the maximumpotential from their animals.

Halter breaking may seem to be oneof the less colourful roles in themaking of a champion, but let me tellyou if it is done properly and in thecorrect time period, it can give you atremendous advantage.

Many people have asked me, whenshould I halter break our showcalves? My reply is: if you arethinking of halter breaking, now is a

good time to do it. It seems you haveto be in the right mind set to proceedwith halter breaking, preferably youwill need to devote three or fourhours each day, for a period of threeof four days in a row. If you are halterbreaking outside, the weather shouldbe moderate, not raining and not hot.

Personally, I think the mostopportune age to halter break yourcalves is about three and a half to fivemonths of age. At this age they seemto be able to respond to being underyour control and are at an age whereyou can gain their trust fairly quickly.Another reason to halter break at thisearlier age is that they usually don’thave the strength or desire to hurtthemselves like more mature cattlewould. Cattle that are more maturecan still be halter broken, it just takesmore time. When halter breakingfemales, it is a lot easier and safer tohalter break heifers before they arepregnant. They don’t need to besubjected to that much stress whenthey are in calf. Bulls that are going tobull sales should be done as early aspossible. I find cattle that have beenhalter broken earlier are quieteraround people. They also have a lotmore ability to gain. Probably the bestreason I can give for halter breakingearly, is that the numbers on mybirthday cards are getting bigger, andthe smaller the calves the better Ienjoy it.

There are a couple of things you needbefore you head out to halter break.One, you should always have a pocketknife in your possession whenworking with livestock. You neverknow when a situation will arise thatyou need to cut a halter, and pleasemake sure your knife has an edge on

it capable of just that. If you workaround cattle long enough, you willundoubtedly come upon a situationwhere you have to free an animal thathas gotten itself in some trouble.That little knife in your pocket couldeasily be the difference between asatisfactory outcome or an unhappy one.

Secondly, you must have patience tohalter break. If you don’t havepatience, “don’t bother”. There arefew things more satisfactory thangaining a young animal’s trust. Yourpatience and gentleness will returnrewards very quickly. It is amazinghow fast you can gain the trust ofmost young animals. I am sure thereare different ways to halter break, butthis is the way that has beensuccessful for me.

Halter Breaking: Confine the groupor individual animals that you plan tohalter break in a chute or alleywaywhere you are in control of them.Using a one half inch diameter nylonrope halter, fit it correctly on eachanimal’s head. Make sure that theeyelet hole in the halter is largeenough for the rope to pass throughit easily. The mechanics of halterbreaking are fairly simple. With aslittle fan fair as possible, get youranimal to a sturdy post and secureyour rope approximately 18 to 24inches off the ground. Give theanimal about 12 to 18 inches of slackin the rope, and tie the rope using aknot that you can easily get undone.The first time that you tie an animalup, they are naturally going to put upa scrap. Also, this is the reason theeyelet hole in the halter must be openenough for the rope to slide easily.Back to the mechanics, the more the

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calf pulls, the tighter the rope gets,the more pain it inflicts under thecalf’s chin and behind it’s ears. As thecalf learns to stand with slack in therope, the pressure on the rope isreduced, and the calf will stand therewithout pain. If the eyelet is toosmall, the rope will not release, andthe calf will be in pain constantly, andwill probably never give up the fight.

Calves are similar to humans, theywill all learn at different rates. Somewill almost stand immediately, whileothers have a strong spirit and willfight and flop on their side. As long asthese “floppers” keep their neckstraight, they will usually get up ontheir own. If you feel they needassistance getting to their feet, untiethe rope and they will get up. Whenapproaching an animal that is on itsside, always do so along their back.Do not get close to their legs, forwhen they start thrashing, they couldmake contact with you. If their headgets under their body, you areheading for trouble and need tointervene by releasing the rope. Getthe calf on it’s feet and secure him tothe post once again. Usually, this iscaused by giving the calf too muchslack, or tying them too high. Makesure you don’t secure the rope toohigh up the post. If the calf does aflop, he could break his neck orcollapse his windpipe, and that’swhen you need that pocket knife. As Imentioned earlier, the larger the cattlethe more excitement you get. If youare like me, I can’t stand too muchexcitement, so once again, halterbreak younger cattle. Never leavecalves unattended on the first coupleof days of halter breaking. After ashort time of being secured, you canidentify the calves that are respondingthe quickest, and with a brush orcomb, start making one on onecontact. They will likely fly around fora short time, but with your patience,they will quickly respond to thecomb. I like to use a blower later onthe first day, and without getting too

aggressive, they will begin to respond.The lead shank on the rope shouldbe 8 1/2 to 9 1/2 feet long for halterbreaking. With a rope this long youcan make your knot further awayfrom the calf’s head.

On the first day I like to keep thecalves tied up for about four to fivehours. The more times you makeadvancement toward the calf andtouch him with a brush or comb, thequicker they seem to becomecomfortable being around you. At theend of the first day, take the haltersoff and let the calves back in theirpens or back to their mothers.

The second day you will find some ofthe calves are harder to catch. Theyare some of the tougher ones andknow what is in store. Again tie eachcalf to a secure post of their own.Keep them far enough apart fromeach other that they won’t get tangledup. When you have them all tied up,get your comb or brush and proceedto gain their confidence again.

The third day you will find themajority of the calves will just standat the posts, offering very littleresistance to the rope or your actions.By this time, some of the calves areanticipating being brushed orcombed, and the blower is havingvery little affect on them.

By the fourth day, you can usuallyrun the calves in a small confinement,and once the calves feel the halter ontheir head, they will stand still. Mostof the calves will lay down at the postthey are secured to as well as lookforward to your attention. Now thatthe calves have respect for you andthe halter, it is a good time tocontinue the halter breaking processand teach them to lead. As long asthey are quiet and have respect forthe rope, they will lead easily.

You will also find that when you havevisitors call to view your calves, onceyou enter the field with a stranger, the

calves will be very quiet. This has atwo-fold effect. It is very impressive toa visitor when these animals have aquiet disposition. Secondly, apotential buyer can get close enoughto the animal to analyse them to theirfulfillment. Also, quiet animals willtake to feed so much easier and getthe utmost potential from the feed.

Once an animal has been halterbroke they will usually respect thehalter for the rest of their life. Thiswill prove very beneficial whenanimals are offered for sale, treatingin the pasture, or securing youranimals to give them assistance.

Leading: To teach cattle how to lead,once again requires patience. Whenyou have gained their confidence, andthey have respect for the halter, youcan begin the process of training yourcattle to lead. Begin by leading eachcalf back to the gate where they willmeet with their mothers or return totheir pens. By pulling on the halterwith constant pressure, they will oftenbolt ahead. Don’t let them get pastyou or get advancing too fast. Whenthey stop, put pressure on the halteragain to make them come forward.Remember, as your animal begins tomove forward, release the pressure onthe halter. In essence you arerewarding the calf for responding toyour lead. Eventually your calves willwalk beside you or behind you, asthey know they are going back totheir pens. It seems quiet cattle oftenget stubborn at home, yet in a lot ofinstances, they will lead surprisinglywell when taken to a strangeenvironment.

Once the calves have total respect forthe halter, you can start tying themwith their head higher (approximatelyeye level). This will help in trainingyour calves to stand still. They willremain at ease while fitting them forthe showring as well as during stallpreparation. Good Luck and Have Fun!

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MAKING A ROPE HALTER

Start with 12’ to 15’ feet of 1/2”nylon rope.

Measure off 15” to 18” from oneend. This will be the nose band.

Spread the rope at 15” to 18” passing the long end through it.

Bring the long piece through thethree loops.

Continue the long piece throughthe three loops then through thefirst loop.

A formed halter.

Form a loop a little bigger than therope so the rope will slide throughit.

Open the braid next to the loopand bring the short end through it.

Twist the short piece of the rope toform three loops.

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Was

hing

You will need the following equipmentto wash your animal:

• washsuit or wash pants

• rubber boots

• water bucket

• soap

• scotch comb

• scrub brush

• water hose First comb out your animal to get rid of all of theloose hair, dirt and debris.

Start to wet your animal at the feet, to get themused to the water.

Hold the hose high pointing down on youranimal, taking care not to soak anyone around you.

Completely wet your animal, starting at the backand working forwards, from top to bottom.

When you are washing the head, hold the earsshut to ensure water does not get in their ears.

ColeHarvie

ScottHarvie

FITTING DEMO

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Using a scrub brush, apply soap to the head and stainedareas on your animal.

Mix the soap and water in a bucket.

Slowly pour the bucket of soapy waterdown the back of the animal starting atthe tail and moving tothe front.

Using a scrub brush,scrub the rest of thebody in a forwardmotion.

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After your animal iscompletely rinsed, usethe back of your comband squeegee off theexcess water.

With the hose, rinseout all of the soapstarting at the back to the front, and topto bottom.

Comb your animalstraight down fromback to front, andthen comb your animal all forward,from back to front.

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Blow

Dry

ing

Start blowing at the front on the neck and work your way to the backfrom top to bottom, blowing all hair forward.

Blower

Ensure your animal is completely dry before you begin to clip or fit.

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Clip

ping

Clippers:

Left – Small clippers for fine work.

Top – Shears for longer hair.

Bottom – Flat head clippers for tight shaving close to theskin (head, tail andbrisket).

Shave the tail using theflat head clippers. Thismakes the animal’srump appear wider.

Shave the head withthe flat head clippers.This will make theskull appear longer.

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Using the shears, clipthe longer body guardhair. Start on the topline working fromback to front and topto bottom.

With the shears, trimand blend the shavedareas so there are nolines and all the hair isblended in.

Shave down the front of the neck and brisket. This helps the front end look tidier and the neck extension appear longer.

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Trim the longer bellyhair to even out theunder line of your animal, to make youranimal appear deeper.

Blend in the top of theneck to make the neckappear longer.

Blend in the shouldersto make them looksmooth.

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Fitti

ngThe first step in fitting is boning the legs. Boning thelegs makes the animal appearto have more bone and makesthe animal appear morestructurally correct. Using agrooming glue spray the glueon the outside of the back leg,a little at a time, starting at thehoof and working up, pullingthe hair straight up each time.Be sure to spray a little glue ata time and then combupwards and forward.

Comb the hair on the tail head up and spray itwith glue.

Using the shears, trim the tail head down to makethe spine and the animal look longer and straighter.

Bone the inside of the back leg up to the hock. When boning the front legs, the outside of the frontleg should be done up to the top of the leg. Theinside of the leg should be boned up to the knee.

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Clip the legs to givethem the proper shapeand correctness.

Spray on show oil andusing the blower, blowit in forwards to makethe hair coat shine.Do not spray show oilwhere you have usedglue as it will softenthe hold of the glue.

Comb the top lineupwards and forwardsand then spray withglue. Using the shears,clip the topline straight.

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After photo

After showing, youwill need to removethe glue from youranimal. Use show oilspray or glue removereverywhere glue wasused and rub it intothe hair and thencomb through toensure all glue is being removed. Youwill then need to completely wash youranimal to remove allof the show sprays andoils used for fitting.

Before photo

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Show

ing

This is the proper placement ofthe halter.

The noseband is too high.

The noseband is too low on the nose.

How to Use a Halter

The correct way to hold thelead shank and show stickwhen leading your animal.

The correct way to grip the lead shank whenleading your animal.

The correct way to grip the lead shank when setting up your animal.

How to Grip a Halter

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Holding the head ofthe animal too high.

Holding the head ofthe animal too low.

Leading Your Animal

This is the proper placementof feet for a photo.

The animal is not stretched out enough.

The animal is too stretched out.

Proper Stances for Photos

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Showmanship is the ability toshow your animal off to thejudge to have the best chance of

winning. Showmanship starts athome by working with your animal, ifyour animal knows you and feels atease with you, it will be calmer andact better in the show ring. There aremany aspects of showmanship. Whenyou show up at the ring have youranimal well presented and have theright equipment; show halter, showstick, scotch comb, and a showharness with the right show numberin it. Be at the ring early for your classto help the marshal get the class linedup to go.

SHOW RING PROCEDURES

– Dress clean and neat.

– The show person should walk atthe left side of the animal’s head, sothe judge can get a good look at thefront of the animal.

– You should keep the halter shanktight at all times so you can feel themovement of the animal.

– You should know who the judgeand ringman are, and keep an eyeon the judge at all times. Be alertand respond to the directions givenby the ringman.

– When you stop, switch the showstick to the right hand and theshank to the left, letting the excessshank hang down.

– Set the animal’s feet square underthem. If you wish the inside backleg (the one on the judge’s side)may be slightly back.

– Keep your animal’s head up in anatural position.

– Scratch the underline of youranimal with your show stick tokeep it content. Scratch slow andeasy, you are not trying to saw theanimal in half. Do not try to keepthem calm by rattling the chain onthe halter.

– When you are setting the feet,apply pressure on the halter, pushback when you are moving the feetback, and pull forward when you

are moving the feet forward. Tryjust to use your foot not the showstick to move the front feet.

– You should stand about 8” to 12”away from the animal.

– When the judge approaches,smile, stop scratching and step backslightly so that the judge can get agood look at your animal. Try notto get in the judge’s way when theyare looking at your animal.

– If the judge touches your animal,take your scotch comb and combthe hair back in place, after hemoves on to the next animal.

– Keep watching the judge butdon’t stare at him.

– When asked to line up, move assoon as you are asked to do so.Leave enough room betweenanimals so you can use your showstick.

– When you are asked to changepositions, pull straight out of lineturn to the right and go backthrough the hole you just came outof, and pull into the position youwere told to move to.

– Keep your animal in as straight aline as possible.

– Do not stop showing until youare out of the showring, you canstill win showmanship regardless of where your animal placed.

– After the judge has completedplacing, stay alert and continueshowing. Watch for the ringman’sdirections to leave the ring.

– For the most success, stay calmand have fun. You have workedhard all year so enjoy your show day.

SHOWMANSHIPCraig Scott, Charolais Banner

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When moving the front feet of your animal applypressure with your foot.

When moving the back foot forward place the hookof the showstick just above the hoof and pull forwardalso pulling slightly forward on the halter.

Moving the back foot back push just above the splitof the toes also push back on the halter.

When the judge approaches from the handler’s sidetake a step out in front of your calf and scratch yourcalf between the front legs with your showstick.

When the judge moves to the front of your calf take astep back to the side. Always keep your eye on thejudge.

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ON MARKETING YOURPROJECT STEERKari & Kimberly Kondratowicz

You may not realize it now, butknowing how to successfullymarket your steer will be a very

beneficial skill that will take you toplaces and carry you forward in life nomatter which path you take.Marketing, simply put, is the ability tosell your product to as many people aspossible. In our case, the product ofcourse, is your animal.The benefits of a successful marketingcampaign are endless. You may notice acommon denominator…Short-term benefits? More money foryour product. The more prospectivebuyers you have, the higher thepurchase price, right? Long-term benefits? Even more moola!You are acquiring what we would liketo call an essential life skill. Asproducers, no matter the industry, beingsuccessful at marketing your productallows you to continue to thrive andenjoy profits in your business.So let’s get started! Be passionate. Beconfident. Be knowledgeable. Believe inyour product and stand behind it. Thatis what has brought us a sense ofsatisfaction – sticking with Charolais inan Angus dominated market. Wordscannot express the feeling of beingslapped Grand Champion and ReserveGrand Champion with a set of identicalChar cross steers, and then walkingback into the ring the following year todo it all over again.Keep in mind, this does not magicallyhappen. Getting your steer ‘ready’involves a solid commitment and workethic. It starts with animal selection,halter breaking, a solid feeding andfinishing program, hair training andclipping, and let us not forget,marketing! Remember, it is to youradvantage to put in the time. Come

show or sale day, you will have no regrets.The most important part of marketingis to create relationships... and alwaysbe memorable. Remember, they areactually buying into Y-O-U, so sellyourself! Show them the value of youas their investment. Be enthusiasticabout your product and what it meansto you. This is where the passion lies.They are investing in you, the future. Itis far beyond a business transaction. Bysupporting you, they are supportingwhat you represent – local community,education, and agriculture, ultimatelyallowing youth to prosper. And it goesfull circle, as you too may be the futureof their business.Here are some steps:Meet & Greets: these are a great wayto establish a rapport with a potentialbuyer. Think of all the people yourfamily does business with, and then gobeyond. Be creative and think outsideof the box.A formal letter: reiterating who youare, what exactly you are requesting, thetype and amount of investment you areproposing, and the return or benefitsthey will receive through theirinvestment. You may wish to makemention of the potential for exposureand publicity. If you decide to approacha corporation, keep in mind that for themost part, they will have alreadyallocated funds by the end of the year.Timing is everything. Approach them atthe beginning of the year when theyfirst get their budgets. Professionalismis important. Remember, you’re askingfor more than $3 for a box of chocolates.Organize a social event: this gives youan opportunity to invite prospectivebuyers…and don’t forget to send out apersonal invitation. This is an occasionfor them to get to know you better, but

save the sales pitch! This is youropportunity to sell you, not your steer.They are buying everything you standfor. Be genuine and relate with them ontopics other than the sale of your steer.Now that you’ve come this far, besure to:Invite them to the sale. You may wishto call a few weeks in advance toremind them of sale day. Don’t take‘no’ for an answer. If they are unable toattend, then get a reserve bid.Your work is not over until theauctioneer says “Sold!”. Continue tospeak with prospective buyers, even ifyour steer is already ‘sold’. This is awin-win situation; it creates hype in thesale ring and the price can only go up.Remember, don’t stop short of thefinish line!Say Thank You. Send out a classyplaque with a picture of you and yoursteer and have your buyer’s nameengraved. This is a good way to showyour appreciation and maintain therelationship.Quite truthfully, the skills we haveacquired through our commitment tothe Charolais breed and involvement inthe 4H program are part of thefoundation for which we have eachbuilt our existence today. Take itseriously. Hard work and perseverancepays off – not only in the money-sense.You will find it is the people and theexperiences gained that will prove mostvaluable. And may you never forget togive your parents a hefty hug andThank You. They are your strongestsupport system and without them,nothing would be possible.Remember, it all starts with you, a lilidea, and some solid work ethic. Don’tset limits for yourself and alwaysdream BIG.

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PARTS OF THE BEEF ANIMAL

ANATOMY OF THE BEEF ANIMAL

Hip or hook bone

Rump Loin

Back

Chine

Stifle

Ribs

Shoulderblade

Pin bone

Tail

Quarter

Switch

Hock

Dewclaw

Scrotum

Sheath

Pastern

Knee

Brisket

Dewlap

Point ofshoulder

Throat

Jaw

Muzzle

Forehead

PollNeck

WithersHeart girth

BarrelTailhead

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BEEF GLOSSARYAVERAGE DAILY GAIN (ADG)Measurement of daily body weightchange in a animal on a feed test.Most tests are 140 to 160 days.

ADJUSTED WEANING WEIGHT(WW)An unshrunk weight adjusted toether 365, 452 or 550 days of age.

ADJUSTED YEARLING WEIGHT(YW)An unshrunk weight adjusted toether 365, 452 or 550 days of age.

BODY CONDITION SCOREA score on a scale of 1 to 9, reflectingthe amount of fat reserves in a cowsbody, where 1 = very thin and 9 =extremely fat.

CARCASS QUALITY GRADEAn estimate of palatability basedprimarily on marbling and maturityand generally to a lesser extent oncolor, texture, and firmness of lean.

CONCEPTIONThe fertilization of the ovum (egg).The act of conceiving or becomingpregnant.

CONFORMATIONThe shape and arrangement of thedifferent body parts of an animal.

CONTEMPORARY GROUPA group of cattle that are the samebreed and sex and have been raised inthe same management group (samelocation on the same feed andpasture). Contemporary groupsshould include as many cattle as canbe accurately compared.

CULLINGThe process of eliminating lessproductive or less desirable cattlefrom a herd.

CUTABABILITYAn estimate of the percentage ofsalable meat or muscle from a carcassvs. the percentage of waste fat.

DRESSING PERCENTA carcass measurement term whichrepresents the (chilled carcass weight/live weight) x 100.

EMBRYOA fertilized ovum (egg) in the earlier

stages of prenatal developmentusually prior to development of body parts.

EMBRYO TRANSFER (ET)Removing embryos from one cow(donor dam) and placing theseembryos into other cows (host orrecipient cows), usually accompaniedby hormone-induced superovulationof the donor dam. More calves can beobtained from cows of superiorbreeding value by this technique.Only proven producers shouldbecome donor dams.

EXPECTED PROGENY DIFFERENCE(EPD)The difference in performance to beexpected from progeny of a sire,compared with that expected fromfuture progeny of the average bull inthe same test. EPD is an estimatebased on progeny testing and is equalto one-half the estimate of breedingvalue obtainable from the progenytest records. EPDs for growth traitsare generally expressed in pounds,either as a plus difference or minusdifference from the populationaverage. EPDs are generally reportedin the units of measure of the traits(e.g., pounds, cm, cm2, percent, etc.)

F1Offspring resulting from the matingof a purebred (straightbred) bull topurebred (straightbred) females ofanother breed.

FEED CONVERSIONUnits of feed consumed per unit ofweight gained. Also the production(meat milk) per unit of feedconsumed.

HETEROSIS (HYBRID VIGOR)Amount by which measured traits ofthe crossbreds exceed the average ofthe two or more purebreds that aremated to produce the crossbred.

HETEROZYGOUSGenes of a specific pair (alleles) aredifferent in an individual.

HOMOZYGOUSGenes of a specific pair (alleles) arealike in an individual.

HOT CARCASS WEIGHTWeight of carcass just prior tochilling.

LACTATIONThe period following calving duringwhich milk is formed in the udder.

MARBLINGThe specks of fat (intramuscular fat)distributed in the muscle tissue.Marbling is usually evaluated in theribeye between the 12th and 13th rib.

PROGENYThe offspring of animals.

RIB EYE AREAArea of longissimus muscle measuredin square inches at the 12th and 13thrib.

SCROTAL CIRCUMFERENCEA measurement of testicle size obtained by measuring the distancearound the testicles in the scrotumwith a circular tape.

SCURSHorny tissue of rudimentary hornsthat are attached to the skin ratherthan the bony part of the head.

SEEDSTOCK BREEDERProducers of breeding stock forpurebred and commercial breeders.

TERMINAL SIRESSires used in a crossbreeding systemwhere all the progeny, both male andfemale, are marketed. For example, F1crossbred dams could be bred to siresof a third breed and all calvesmarketed. Although this systemallows maximum heterosis andcomplementary of breeds,replacement females must come fromother herds.

ULTRASONIC MEASUREMENTSUsed to estimate carcass andreproductive characteristics. Operatesoff the principle that sound wavesecho differently with differentdensities of tissue.

WEIGHT PER DAY OF AGE (WDA)Weight of an individual divided bydays of age.