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A description of Inn-to-Inn Guided Canoe Trips to the Ardeche and Tarn regions of the South of France.
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This brochure is provided by Green River Canoes Ltd and details some of the Inn-to-Inn Guided Canoe Trips described on the web-site at wwwgreenrivercanoescom
You can also reach us at
httpswwwfacebookcomgreenrivercanoes
httpstwittercomcanoegreenriver
For any questions please email us at infogreenrivercanoescom or use the form at httpgreenrivercanoescomcontact-us
You can subscribe to our infrequent newsletter to receive news of new trips schedules and offers
Steven House amp Steve Lines
ldquoContentsGreen River Canoes 13 4
Introduction13 6
12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip13 9
8 Day Ardeche Trip13 24
6 Day Tarn Trip13 25
Where We Stay13 26
What we see13 33
Canoeing13 34
Hiking13 36
Wildlife13 38
Maps and Books13 41
Green River CanoesWe provide Inn-to-Inn Guided Canoeing Trips on beautiful calm green rivers in the Ardeche and Tarn regions of the South of France This brochure describes the following trips 12 Days in the Ardeche amp Tarn 8 Days in the Ardeche and 6 Days on the Tarn with canoeing on the Gardon the Ceze the Chassezac the Tarn and the Ardeche rivers
All our trips are guided Our guests will be accompanied on the river and trail by an experienced guide who knows the area and rivers well Our other guide will accompany us in the background by driving our vehicle between lodgings When necessary this vehicle will be transferring our luggage meeting us for lunch and generally being available as and when needed
All the accommodation on our trips is in small local Hotels Chambre DHotes or BampBs
All our trip prices include transfers canoe hire accommodation (with breakfasts) all lunches and all evening meals
Trips come in two sizes with up to 7 guests we will have 2 guides and with between 8 and 14 guests we will have 3 guides (2 on the river amp trail) Larger groups can be accommodated by request
IntroductionTake your time in examining the summary page for each trip and then look at the day-to-day schedule and the description of the hotels we use This should give you a good idea of what to expect from each trip
The Prices and Dates page is self explanatory and the Details and Queries page may also answer some of the more technical questions you might have
If you have further questions then please do not hesitate to contact us we are only to happy to help
In particular if the dates weve scheduled dont fit your requirements or you would like to change the schedule in some way then we will do our best to help you
If you are a group of 4 or more then we are also happy to arrange a private trip for you Just provide us with the dates you would like the trip your are interested in (with any schedule changes you require) and we will do our utmost to provide it Although our regular and scheduled trips have a maximum of 14 guests and 3 guides larger groups can be accommodated with private and custom trips
12 Day Ardeche And Tarn Trip
On this trip we canoe on the Gardon the Ceze the Chassezac and the Ardeche rivers in the Ardeche region and on the Tarn river in the Tarn region of south-east France We shall explore the Gorges and Mountains of both the Ardeche and the Cevennes which are still relatively remote even to this day
The rivers in the Ardeche flow eastwards towards the Rhone river which itself then flows south to the Mediterranean The Chassezac is a tributary of the Ardeche Each of these rivers in the Ardeche flow through deep and dramatic gorges in limestone country
The Gardon Ceze and Chassezac are calm rivers with easy paddling through beautiful scenery The Ardeche provides a little more excitement with Class 2 and 3 rapids These rapids are short however and the river provides plenty of easy water between them
When we cross over to the Tarn we canoe in a river which flows westwards towards the Atlantic The Tarn also flows through a dramatic limestone gorge and is famously known for its beautifully clear and green waters The first two days on this river provide easy paddling whilst the third day provides more excitement with some rapids to contend with
In-between the canoeing days we shall hike on the parts of the long-distance trail known as the GR70 - the famous Robert Louis Stevenson Trail The author walked this way more than 100 years ago to see for himself how the Hugenots (Protestants) survived in a largely Catholic country The walk is renowned for the difficulty he experienced in dealing with his donkey Modestine
We shall also walk through the peculiar region called the Chaos of Montpelier which has been eroded into many curious geological shapes
Of course throughout we shall stay at remote and beautiful places and enjoy the regional cuisine and the local wines
Day to Day Schedule
Day 1 Arrival first meeting and first canoe
You will be met at the TGV station at Avignon sometime around midday
Alternative arrangements can be made for arrivals such as at regional airports by prior arrangement
The drive to Collias takes about 40 minutes We will stop here for a picnic lunch get to know each other and go over the trip together We will then do a 2 hour canoe on the Gardon River which will finish as we pass underneath the famous Pont du Gard a UNESCO Heritage Roman Aqueduct which is almost 2000 years old
We will then have a 50 minute drive to our accommodation at Le Prieure drsquoOrniols in the charming tiny hamlet of La Bastide just outside Goudargues On our arrival we will be met by our hosts Olivier and Grace
Day 2 A paddle on the Ceze
Today we will paddle the Ceze river from Montclus back to Goudargues
We will have time to visit the walled village of Montclus first before starting our paddle downstream The river passes by some beautiful cliffs as it meanders back towards the village which we will also have time to visit afterwards The village was once a famous spa town and retains some interesting small canals
If time allows we can visit the village of La Roque-sur-Ceze and the local Falls
We remain at the Le Prieure drsquoOrniols tonight
Day 3 Canoeing the Chassezac Gorge
We will canoe a stretch of the Chassezac River today starting at the Iron Bridge and going onto Chaulet a trip of about 3 hours The river meanders wildly through a very deep gorge with some beautiful beaches just ripe for a picnic lunch and some swimming
Late in the day we will take a hike along the rim of the gorge and look down on where we were previously
Tonight we will stay at the former convent at Le Carmel Les Vans just a very short drive away
Day 4 Hiking the Robert Louis Stevenson Trail
In the morning we will have an hours drive to Les Bleynard where we will start our hike on the GR70 (Robert Louis Stevenson Trail) over Mont Lozere to the Pont de Montvert about 12 miles The walk will offer us splendid views over this remote region of France called the Cevennes An alternative is to hike over the Signal de Ventalon and hike directly to our accommodation
Afterwards its a 45 drive to where we stay at a remote farmhouse in the Cevennes at Le Cauvel
Day 5 Another day of hiking on the Stevenson Trail
After breakfast we will walk out onto the GR70 and continue our way on the Stevenson Trail down to St Germain-de-Calberte If we have the energy then our afternoon hike will take us along the Corniche de Cevennes which looks down the Gorge of the Tarnon River Both of these hikes offer exceptional views over the Cevennes mountains and we will pass ancient Sepulcres Dolmens and Standing Stones too
Tonight we will stay at Le Cauvel again
Day 6 The first day in the Tarn Gorge
After a 45 minute drive to Montbrun we will begin our first day on the beautiful Tarn river We will paddle all the way to St Chely-du-Tarn making sure that we stop for a look around the lovely village of St Enimie This is an absolutely stunning river to paddle The river is crystal clear and runs in a fabulously deep gorge in remote country-side
Tonight we will stay in the Auberge de la Cascade in the outstandingly beautiful village of St Chely-du-Tarn We will be able to walk up from the river beach to our hotel
Day 7 The Second Day on the Tarn
After a leisurely breakfast we stroll down to the beach underneath the bridge in the village and prepare for another beautiful days canoeing on the Tarn This section is just as beautiful as yesterday and we will pass some lovely spots including the village of Hauterives an isolated village only reachable by river and the delightful village of La Malene The river squeezes through the famous Detroits (narrows) on our way to Les Baumes Basse where we finish for the day
We are again staying at the Auberge de la Cascade
Day 8 The Final Day on the Tarn
A short drive will take us down-river to where we will begin our final day on the Tarn We will canoe from Les Vignes to Le Rozier along a section of river which is just as dramatic visually as the first two days but a little more bumpy We will have to concentrate as we ride the Class 2 and 3 rapids as we admire the gorge scenery around us
Once again we will be able to walk to our hotel which is the Doussier
Day 9 A Hike on the Chaos de Montpelier
A 35 minute drive we see us arrive at the small village of La Roque St Marguerite where we will begin our hike up to the Chaos de Montpelier a truly strange outcrop of rocks which have been eroded into exotic shapes In the USA these shapes are known as Hoodoos We will spend several hours wandering numerous trails around this area and experience the fabulous views over the plateau and the gorge
A rather longer drive of about 90 minutes will take us across the bleak plateau landscape known as the Cause Noir back to the Cevennes and the farmhouse at Le Cauvel
Day 10 First Day on the Ardeche River
After a 2 hour drive to Balazuc on the section of the Ardeche called the Defiles we will prepare ourselves for our introduction to the exciting Ardeche river On this first part we will canoe through some small Class 2 rapids and riffles and pass some exotic cliffs and pretty villages Like yesterday we will have to be on our toes as we negotiate some boulder fields in-between some calmer stretches of the river
If we are not sated by that section then after a short drive downstream to Vallon Pont DArc we can paddle a short but interesting section of the river which takes us to a beach near our hotel This section begins at the head of the famous Gorge de LArdeche and takes us canoeing through the legendary Pont DArc a natural stone arch through which the river flows This
section will give us an idea for the spills and thrills to come on our next day on the Ardeche
A short walk (or drive) will take us to our lodgings at the Hotel Belved which is also in the Gorge
Day 11 Canoeing the Gorge LArdeche
Today is the big day when we canoe through the fabulous Gorge LArdeche The Gorge is deep the river is remote and the rapids are exciting Between sections of the river where you can admire the fantastic scenery are Class 2 and Class 3 rapids to grab your attention Most of them are short and sweet and several of them can easily be run several times if you are in the mood
This really is a wonderful stretch of river and we will take all day to enjoy it with a sumptuous beach picnic half-way through the long day
When we are finished we will go for a beer or an ice-cream in the beautiful village of Aigueze which overlooks the final stretch of our days paddling
It is then a short drive to re-visit Olivier and Grace at Le Prieure drsquoOrniols where it all began
Day 12 Departure and Farewells
When we are ready we will drive for an hour to the TGV station at Avignon for our return to Paris and beyond
If time allows if say the train departure is after midday then we can visit the old monastery at Chartreuse de Valbonne or the waterfalls at La Roque-sur-Ceze Or indeed we could spend part of the day in Avignon itself
8 Day Ardeche Trip
This trip removes 4 days from the 12 Day trip described in the previous chapter - Days 6 7 8 and 9 Otherwise the itinerary is the same The whole trip is described fully on our website with a complete schedule map details of hotels and our current prices and schedules You can see many photographs there too
On this trip we canoe on the Gardon the Ceze the Chassezac and the Ardeche rivers in the Ardeche region of south-east France We shall explore the Gorges and Mountains of both the Ardeche and the Cevennes which are still relatively remote even to this day
The rivers in the Ardeche flow eastwards towards the Rhone river which itself then flows south to the Mediterranean The Chassezac is a tributary of the Ardeche Each of these rivers in the Ardeche flow through deep and dramatic gorges in limestone country
The Gardon Ceze and Chassezac are calm rivers with easy paddling through beautiful scenery The Ardeche provides a little more excitement with Class 2 and 3 rapids These rapids are short however and the river provides plenty of easy water between them
In-between the canoeing days we shall hike on the parts of the long-distance trail known as the GR70 - the famous Robert Louis Stevenson Trail The author walked this way more than 100 years ago to see for himself how the Hugenots (Protestants) survived in a largely Catholic country The walk is renowned for the difficulty he experienced in dealing with his donkey Modestine
Of course throughout we shall stay at remote and beautiful places and enjoy the regional cuisine and the local wines
6 Day Tarn Trip
This trip concentrates on the Tarn days on 12 Day trip described in the previous chapter - Days 6 7 8 and 9 With an arrival day and a departure day The whole trip is described fully on our website with a complete schedule map details of hotels and our current prices and schedules You can see many photographs there too
On this trip we plan to arrive and depart via the TGV Railway Station at Montpelier
When we are on the Tarn we canoe in a river which flows westwards towards the Atlantic The Tarn flows through a dramatic limestone gorge and is famously known for its beautifully clear and green waters The first two days on this river provide easy paddling whilst the third day provides more excitement with some rapids to contend with
We shall also walk through the peculiar region called the Chaos of Montpelier which has been eroded into many curious geological shapes
Of course throughout we shall stay at remote and beautiful places and enjoy the regional cuisine and the local wines
Where We Stay
Le Prieure drsquoOrniols
For the first two nights and for our last night we are at the Le Prieure dOrniols just outside the village of Goudargues Situated besides a small castle Olivier and Grace will welcome us and provide delicious meals in the beautiful small stone chambre dhote
Short walks are available either down to the river or up the lane towards the cause Or a five minute drive will take us to the small town of Goudargues
Le Priure drsquoOrniols
Le Carmel Les Vans
On the third night we are at the Le Carmel near the centre of the small town of Les Vans The hotel is a former 19th Century Convent
The hotel has a small swimming pool and we shall be dining in the pretty restaurant
If you are in the mood for an early morning walk then the town is well worth a stroll around
Le Carmel
Le Cauvel
On our fourth and fifth nights we are at Le Cauvel which is a converted farm-house in the heart of the Cevennes not far from Barres-des-Cevennes The place is run by a pair of brothers and their wives and is guided by green and organic principles We also return here on our 9th night
The hotel sits in a setting of beautiful gardens and flowers with a terrace overlooking the valley You can visit the smallholding which produces the vegetables for the kitchen
We can access the Robert Louis Stevenson Trail directly from the farmstead and possibly visit the farm next door to visit the horses
le Cauvel
Auberge de la Cascade
For the sixth and seventh nights we are at the Auberge de la Cascade in St Chely-du-Tarn The hotel comprises almost the whole of this tiny village which sits besides the Tarn over a narrow bridge barred to most traffic
The early morning walk around the village will reveal a tiny chapel underneath the cliffs as well as a small church
The hotel has a small pool for our use and we shall dine in its lovely restaurant overlooking the square
Auberge de Cascade
Hotel Doussiare
For the eighth night we stay at the Hotel DoussiAtildeumlre in Le Rozier The hotel is next to the River Jonte which joins the Tarn and has terraces overlooking the river where we shall dine in the evening
A walk around the village in the evening is well worth the effort as it sits at the junction of two dramatic valleys
Hotel Belved
For the tenth night we stay at the Hotel Belved just south of Vallons Pont DArc in the Ardeche Gorge itself This comfortable place has a small pool for our use and we shall dine here probably on the terrace this evening
After dinner we can walk a short distance down the road to some riverside camp-sites where we may be able to find some entertainment or at least a refreshing beer or two
Hotel BelvedHotel Douiare
What We See
CAVES
The newly opened (2015) Chauvet caves are a replica of those cave discovered in 1994 near the Pont DrsquoArc The replica like that at Lascaux allows visitors to see the ancient cave paintings without damaging the originals b y exposing them to the atmosphere These spectacular paintings are some of the oldest in Europe and some are 40000 years old and feature animals not seen before in other caves
Aven drsquoOrgnac these caves with interesting geological features are in the Ardeche
LE PLUS BEAUX VILLAGE DE FRANCE
Sainte-Enimie on the banks of the Tarn river
Aiguegraveze overlooking the Ardeche river
Balazuc just above the defiles on the Ardeche river
La Roque-sur-Cegraveze on the banks of the Ceze
Montclus on the banks of the Ceze rive
Voguumleacute on the Ardeche river
Canoeing
All the canoes for the trips are provided by us and include paddles and a life-jacket The price is included in the trip
We always prefer open Canadian style canoes which are paddled in tandem - with two people aboard (usually) If you prefer to paddle solo then this can be arranged These canoes are especially suited for the calm water conditions we will be paddling on and are stable and safe They allow plenty of room for yourself and your stuff
From time to time we get clients who wish to paddle a Kayak We can arrange this for you if you prefer but we do stress that the
rivers we canoe do not really warrant the use of a kayak and we feel tandem paddling in a canoe is the way to go
Most of our clients have been canoeing before but we will insist on reviewing safety procedures at the beginning of paddling each day and revise paddling strokes for those who havent paddled for a while or have paddled on lakes rather than rivers for example
For those who have never paddled before their will be plenty of time for lessons as we go These rivers are ideal places for learning
If time and the inclination allows we can also practise other paddling procedures such as Eddy Turns Peeling Out and Ferrying
The clients will not be expected to lift or carry canoes at any time
Hiking
Although the main focus of the trips will be on the canoeing we will have plenty of time for short walks and longer hikes
Where possible we will walk to and from the river although this is not compulsory
In the appropriate season when early mornings are light we can opt to go for a pre-breakfast walk The length and timing of the walk will depend on a consensus reached between those that wish to walk how early we wish to rise and the time of year
Some of the trails we walk on form part of the network of long-distance paths that criss-cross France These are known as Grand Randonees (GR) and are way-marked by a red and white flash We may walk on the GR4 (which goes from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic) passing through the Ardeche We will walk on the GR70 (the famous Robert Louis Stevenson) which
crosses the Cevennes and also possibly the GR6 which traverse the Tarn
Wildlife
On the river we will see plenty of bird-life both on and around the water We will see Ducks and Herons We will also see Kingfishers Wagtails Dippers and Sandpipers We will see Swal lows and Swi f ts and Martins as well as various other birds crossing our path such as Woodpeckers Jays and other crows as well as the
almost invisible songbirds in the tree and hedges Of the raptors we will see the Common Buzzard and possibly an Osprey or a Kestrel
This area of France has a rich variety of Butterflies and we will see many familiar species (if you are from Britain) We will also see some rather more exotic species such as the two types of Swallowtail the Cleopatra the Banded Grayling and if we are lucky some rarer species such as the Large Blue or the Lesser Purple Emperor or Festoons
The river itself will provide m a n y e x a m p l e s o f t h e Dragonfly and Damselfly family The delicate damsels include the Western Demoiselle the White-Legged the Orange F e a t h e r l e g t h e B l u e Featherleg and various Bluets and Bluetails Of the dragons w e m a y s e e t h e S m a l l Pincertail the Yellow Clubtail
the Pronged Clubtail and the Common Clubtai l amongst others
We will also be able to see many flowers especially early in the season before the meadows are cut and these will include several orchids s u c h a s t h e P u r p l e t h e Pyramid the Bee and the Lizard Orchids
Of course we will also see many trees and shrubs along the river course and in the forests We can have some fun trying to identify them
Of the reptiles we will probably see lizards and hear frogs We sometimes see a Grass Snake swimming in the river (harmless) and sometimes a Viper (the only venomous snake which is small 18 inches long and not very poisonous)
The hardest things to see are the mammals We have seen Nutria and Otters on these rivers and weve also glimpsed Red Squirrels and Mink and Martens along the banks On the early morning walks weve encountered Foxes Roe Deer and Fallow Deer Badgers have only been seen at night in the headlights
The European Beaver swims in these rivers and has been seen just once by me on the lower Ardeche
Maps And Books
GUIDE BOOKS for the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
It is an unfortunate fact that the Ardeche and Tarn areas of France are not served particularly well by guide books A number of walking books and guides are available and no doubt the regions are mentioned in more general guide books to the whole of France If you do discover something then please let us know
Cevennes and Grand Causses (Crossbill Guides) by Dirk Hillbers
The Ceacutevennes National Park together with its twin the Parc Naturel des Grands Causses are among the richest natural areas in France Against a stunning background of steep cliffs extensive forests and open steppe-like plateaux the visitor can discover an exceptional wealth of flora and fauna The hundreds of kilometres of trails and tracks make it easy to explore the area with its wealth of orchids and other wildflowers its superb range of birds and butterflies The traditional medieval villages amidst the impressive mountainous country provide a relaxed starting point for exploration In other words the Ceacutevennes has everything a naturalist could wish for This nature guide is part of the renowned Crossbill Guides series for nature enthusiasts The Crossbill Guides combine interesting and insightful accounts with up-to-date and practical tourist information and observation tips Detailed descriptions of hiking trails and car routes are conveniently linked to information on everything you want to know about the what why and wherefores of the Ceacutevennes and Grands Causses splendid nature
HISTORY
The Discovery of France A Historical Geography from the Revolution to the First World War by Graham Robb
Illuminating engrossing and full of surprises The Discovery of France is a literary exploration of a country few will recognise from maps and migration to magic language and landscape itrsquos a book that reveals the real past of France to tell the whole story and history of this remarkable nation rsquoWith gloriously apposite facts and an abundance of quirky anecdotes and thumbnail sketches of people places and customs Robb on brilliant form takes us on a stunning journey through the historical landscape of Francersquo Independent lsquoCertain books strain the patience of those close to you How many times can you demand Look at this Can you imagine Did you know that Without actually handing over the volume This is such a bookrsquo Mail on Sunday rsquoAn extraordinary journey of discovery that will delight even the most indolent armchair travellerrsquo Daily Telegraph
A Concise History of France by Roger Price
This book provides a clear and well-informed guide to French history from the emergence of a strong state in the Ile-de-France in the early middle ages to the trente glorieuses following the Second World War and the Mitterrand presidency As such it provides the most up-to-date and comprehensive study of French history available Among the books central themes are the relationship between state and society the impact of war and such crucial questions as who possessed political power how this power was used in whose interests and with what consequences Roger Price examines the role of leading figures including Philip Augustus Henri IV Louis XIV the two Napoleans Clemenceau and De Gaulle as well as the lives of ordinary people A rich entertaining guide for the student and general reader
A Travellerrsquos History of France by Robert Cole
The Travellers History series is designed for the traveller who feels they need more historical background information on the country in which they are staying than can be found in an ordinary guidebook For those who want to look deeper and discover more about the roots of France its history and culture in an enjoyable read this is the book to choose Designed for easy reference it is the key to unlocking the secrets of France If you want to find about the mysterious Merovingian kings or the results of the last election if you want to know when Chartres cathedral was built or how Napoleon rose to power or when and where Princess Diana died - youll find it all in A Travellers History of France Undoubtedly the best way to prepare for a trip to France is to bone up on some history The Travellers History of France by Robert Cole is concise and gives the essential facts in a very readable form The Independent This little book is a very good idea indeed a running commentary on the complexities triumphs and tragedies of French history from the Lascaux Caves to the Pompidou centre A must for tourists who want to know what happened where The Birmingham Post A brilliant idea from Gloucestershire publishers Windrush a series of books which give a potted history of European countries Ostensibly aimed at holidaymakers the first on France is an excellent introduction for anyone who wants an idiots guide to a history that has so often intertwined with our own The Oxford Times
FICTION
Travels with a Donkey in the Ceacutevennes and the Amateur Emigrant by Robert Louis Stevenson
In 1878 Robert Louis Srtevenson was suffereing from poor health struggling to survive on the income derived from his writings and tormented by his infatuation with Fanny Osbourne a married American woman His response was to embark on a journey through the Cevennes with a donkey Modestine and a notebook which he later transformed into lsquoTravels with a Donkeyrsquo Just a few months after publication Stevenson was off again - this time crossing the Atlantic and the breadth of America in the hope of being re-united with Fanny an experince he recored in the lsquoThe Amateur Emigrantrsquo Both pieces are classics of travel writing which reveal as much about Stevensonrsquos character as the landscape he travels through
MAPS
Many types of maps are available for this region but I recommend those produced by the Institute Geographique Nationale (IGN)
They have two series of walking maps which are suitable for our canoeing needs
The Top25 series is at a scale of 4cm to the km and the Top100 series is at a scale of 1cm to the km
For the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
TOP25 IGN 2640OT Gorges du Tarn et de la JonteCausse MejeanPn des Cevennes (GPS)
TOP100 IGN 162 RodezMillau
TOP25 IGN 2939OT Gorges de lArdecheBourg-Saint-AndeolVallon-Pont-DArc (Gps)
This map doesnrsquot cover the Gardon Ceze Chassezac or the upper Ardeche just the Gorge of the Ardeche
TOP100 IGN 163 AvignonNimes
This map covers all the rivers on the trip
These maps are available to buy online at IGN and at the usual online book shops
I would recommend the TOP100 maps We have all these maps with us on the trips
G R E E N R I V E R
Green River CanoesWe provide Guided Inn-to-Inn Canoeing Holidays to the south of France in the Perigord Lot Ardeche and Tarn regions
We provide hand-crafted vacations to combine a pleasant activity canoeing with an insight into the regional history and natural history whilst enjoying the local foods and wines
All our holidays comprise of mostly canoeing with some (often optional) hiking The itinerary is planned but is flexible enough to be changed on the day if required
All our holidays are guided Our guests will be accompanied on the river and trail by an experienced guide who knows the area and rivers well Our other guide will accompany us in the background by driving our vehicle between lodgings When necessary this vehicle will be transferring our luggage meeting with us for lunch and generally being available as and when needed
ldquoContentsGreen River Canoes 13 4
Introduction13 6
12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip13 9
8 Day Ardeche Trip13 24
6 Day Tarn Trip13 25
Where We Stay13 26
What we see13 33
Canoeing13 34
Hiking13 36
Wildlife13 38
Maps and Books13 41
Green River CanoesWe provide Inn-to-Inn Guided Canoeing Trips on beautiful calm green rivers in the Ardeche and Tarn regions of the South of France This brochure describes the following trips 12 Days in the Ardeche amp Tarn 8 Days in the Ardeche and 6 Days on the Tarn with canoeing on the Gardon the Ceze the Chassezac the Tarn and the Ardeche rivers
All our trips are guided Our guests will be accompanied on the river and trail by an experienced guide who knows the area and rivers well Our other guide will accompany us in the background by driving our vehicle between lodgings When necessary this vehicle will be transferring our luggage meeting us for lunch and generally being available as and when needed
All the accommodation on our trips is in small local Hotels Chambre DHotes or BampBs
All our trip prices include transfers canoe hire accommodation (with breakfasts) all lunches and all evening meals
Trips come in two sizes with up to 7 guests we will have 2 guides and with between 8 and 14 guests we will have 3 guides (2 on the river amp trail) Larger groups can be accommodated by request
IntroductionTake your time in examining the summary page for each trip and then look at the day-to-day schedule and the description of the hotels we use This should give you a good idea of what to expect from each trip
The Prices and Dates page is self explanatory and the Details and Queries page may also answer some of the more technical questions you might have
If you have further questions then please do not hesitate to contact us we are only to happy to help
In particular if the dates weve scheduled dont fit your requirements or you would like to change the schedule in some way then we will do our best to help you
If you are a group of 4 or more then we are also happy to arrange a private trip for you Just provide us with the dates you would like the trip your are interested in (with any schedule changes you require) and we will do our utmost to provide it Although our regular and scheduled trips have a maximum of 14 guests and 3 guides larger groups can be accommodated with private and custom trips
12 Day Ardeche And Tarn Trip
On this trip we canoe on the Gardon the Ceze the Chassezac and the Ardeche rivers in the Ardeche region and on the Tarn river in the Tarn region of south-east France We shall explore the Gorges and Mountains of both the Ardeche and the Cevennes which are still relatively remote even to this day
The rivers in the Ardeche flow eastwards towards the Rhone river which itself then flows south to the Mediterranean The Chassezac is a tributary of the Ardeche Each of these rivers in the Ardeche flow through deep and dramatic gorges in limestone country
The Gardon Ceze and Chassezac are calm rivers with easy paddling through beautiful scenery The Ardeche provides a little more excitement with Class 2 and 3 rapids These rapids are short however and the river provides plenty of easy water between them
When we cross over to the Tarn we canoe in a river which flows westwards towards the Atlantic The Tarn also flows through a dramatic limestone gorge and is famously known for its beautifully clear and green waters The first two days on this river provide easy paddling whilst the third day provides more excitement with some rapids to contend with
In-between the canoeing days we shall hike on the parts of the long-distance trail known as the GR70 - the famous Robert Louis Stevenson Trail The author walked this way more than 100 years ago to see for himself how the Hugenots (Protestants) survived in a largely Catholic country The walk is renowned for the difficulty he experienced in dealing with his donkey Modestine
We shall also walk through the peculiar region called the Chaos of Montpelier which has been eroded into many curious geological shapes
Of course throughout we shall stay at remote and beautiful places and enjoy the regional cuisine and the local wines
Day to Day Schedule
Day 1 Arrival first meeting and first canoe
You will be met at the TGV station at Avignon sometime around midday
Alternative arrangements can be made for arrivals such as at regional airports by prior arrangement
The drive to Collias takes about 40 minutes We will stop here for a picnic lunch get to know each other and go over the trip together We will then do a 2 hour canoe on the Gardon River which will finish as we pass underneath the famous Pont du Gard a UNESCO Heritage Roman Aqueduct which is almost 2000 years old
We will then have a 50 minute drive to our accommodation at Le Prieure drsquoOrniols in the charming tiny hamlet of La Bastide just outside Goudargues On our arrival we will be met by our hosts Olivier and Grace
Day 2 A paddle on the Ceze
Today we will paddle the Ceze river from Montclus back to Goudargues
We will have time to visit the walled village of Montclus first before starting our paddle downstream The river passes by some beautiful cliffs as it meanders back towards the village which we will also have time to visit afterwards The village was once a famous spa town and retains some interesting small canals
If time allows we can visit the village of La Roque-sur-Ceze and the local Falls
We remain at the Le Prieure drsquoOrniols tonight
Day 3 Canoeing the Chassezac Gorge
We will canoe a stretch of the Chassezac River today starting at the Iron Bridge and going onto Chaulet a trip of about 3 hours The river meanders wildly through a very deep gorge with some beautiful beaches just ripe for a picnic lunch and some swimming
Late in the day we will take a hike along the rim of the gorge and look down on where we were previously
Tonight we will stay at the former convent at Le Carmel Les Vans just a very short drive away
Day 4 Hiking the Robert Louis Stevenson Trail
In the morning we will have an hours drive to Les Bleynard where we will start our hike on the GR70 (Robert Louis Stevenson Trail) over Mont Lozere to the Pont de Montvert about 12 miles The walk will offer us splendid views over this remote region of France called the Cevennes An alternative is to hike over the Signal de Ventalon and hike directly to our accommodation
Afterwards its a 45 drive to where we stay at a remote farmhouse in the Cevennes at Le Cauvel
Day 5 Another day of hiking on the Stevenson Trail
After breakfast we will walk out onto the GR70 and continue our way on the Stevenson Trail down to St Germain-de-Calberte If we have the energy then our afternoon hike will take us along the Corniche de Cevennes which looks down the Gorge of the Tarnon River Both of these hikes offer exceptional views over the Cevennes mountains and we will pass ancient Sepulcres Dolmens and Standing Stones too
Tonight we will stay at Le Cauvel again
Day 6 The first day in the Tarn Gorge
After a 45 minute drive to Montbrun we will begin our first day on the beautiful Tarn river We will paddle all the way to St Chely-du-Tarn making sure that we stop for a look around the lovely village of St Enimie This is an absolutely stunning river to paddle The river is crystal clear and runs in a fabulously deep gorge in remote country-side
Tonight we will stay in the Auberge de la Cascade in the outstandingly beautiful village of St Chely-du-Tarn We will be able to walk up from the river beach to our hotel
Day 7 The Second Day on the Tarn
After a leisurely breakfast we stroll down to the beach underneath the bridge in the village and prepare for another beautiful days canoeing on the Tarn This section is just as beautiful as yesterday and we will pass some lovely spots including the village of Hauterives an isolated village only reachable by river and the delightful village of La Malene The river squeezes through the famous Detroits (narrows) on our way to Les Baumes Basse where we finish for the day
We are again staying at the Auberge de la Cascade
Day 8 The Final Day on the Tarn
A short drive will take us down-river to where we will begin our final day on the Tarn We will canoe from Les Vignes to Le Rozier along a section of river which is just as dramatic visually as the first two days but a little more bumpy We will have to concentrate as we ride the Class 2 and 3 rapids as we admire the gorge scenery around us
Once again we will be able to walk to our hotel which is the Doussier
Day 9 A Hike on the Chaos de Montpelier
A 35 minute drive we see us arrive at the small village of La Roque St Marguerite where we will begin our hike up to the Chaos de Montpelier a truly strange outcrop of rocks which have been eroded into exotic shapes In the USA these shapes are known as Hoodoos We will spend several hours wandering numerous trails around this area and experience the fabulous views over the plateau and the gorge
A rather longer drive of about 90 minutes will take us across the bleak plateau landscape known as the Cause Noir back to the Cevennes and the farmhouse at Le Cauvel
Day 10 First Day on the Ardeche River
After a 2 hour drive to Balazuc on the section of the Ardeche called the Defiles we will prepare ourselves for our introduction to the exciting Ardeche river On this first part we will canoe through some small Class 2 rapids and riffles and pass some exotic cliffs and pretty villages Like yesterday we will have to be on our toes as we negotiate some boulder fields in-between some calmer stretches of the river
If we are not sated by that section then after a short drive downstream to Vallon Pont DArc we can paddle a short but interesting section of the river which takes us to a beach near our hotel This section begins at the head of the famous Gorge de LArdeche and takes us canoeing through the legendary Pont DArc a natural stone arch through which the river flows This
section will give us an idea for the spills and thrills to come on our next day on the Ardeche
A short walk (or drive) will take us to our lodgings at the Hotel Belved which is also in the Gorge
Day 11 Canoeing the Gorge LArdeche
Today is the big day when we canoe through the fabulous Gorge LArdeche The Gorge is deep the river is remote and the rapids are exciting Between sections of the river where you can admire the fantastic scenery are Class 2 and Class 3 rapids to grab your attention Most of them are short and sweet and several of them can easily be run several times if you are in the mood
This really is a wonderful stretch of river and we will take all day to enjoy it with a sumptuous beach picnic half-way through the long day
When we are finished we will go for a beer or an ice-cream in the beautiful village of Aigueze which overlooks the final stretch of our days paddling
It is then a short drive to re-visit Olivier and Grace at Le Prieure drsquoOrniols where it all began
Day 12 Departure and Farewells
When we are ready we will drive for an hour to the TGV station at Avignon for our return to Paris and beyond
If time allows if say the train departure is after midday then we can visit the old monastery at Chartreuse de Valbonne or the waterfalls at La Roque-sur-Ceze Or indeed we could spend part of the day in Avignon itself
8 Day Ardeche Trip
This trip removes 4 days from the 12 Day trip described in the previous chapter - Days 6 7 8 and 9 Otherwise the itinerary is the same The whole trip is described fully on our website with a complete schedule map details of hotels and our current prices and schedules You can see many photographs there too
On this trip we canoe on the Gardon the Ceze the Chassezac and the Ardeche rivers in the Ardeche region of south-east France We shall explore the Gorges and Mountains of both the Ardeche and the Cevennes which are still relatively remote even to this day
The rivers in the Ardeche flow eastwards towards the Rhone river which itself then flows south to the Mediterranean The Chassezac is a tributary of the Ardeche Each of these rivers in the Ardeche flow through deep and dramatic gorges in limestone country
The Gardon Ceze and Chassezac are calm rivers with easy paddling through beautiful scenery The Ardeche provides a little more excitement with Class 2 and 3 rapids These rapids are short however and the river provides plenty of easy water between them
In-between the canoeing days we shall hike on the parts of the long-distance trail known as the GR70 - the famous Robert Louis Stevenson Trail The author walked this way more than 100 years ago to see for himself how the Hugenots (Protestants) survived in a largely Catholic country The walk is renowned for the difficulty he experienced in dealing with his donkey Modestine
Of course throughout we shall stay at remote and beautiful places and enjoy the regional cuisine and the local wines
6 Day Tarn Trip
This trip concentrates on the Tarn days on 12 Day trip described in the previous chapter - Days 6 7 8 and 9 With an arrival day and a departure day The whole trip is described fully on our website with a complete schedule map details of hotels and our current prices and schedules You can see many photographs there too
On this trip we plan to arrive and depart via the TGV Railway Station at Montpelier
When we are on the Tarn we canoe in a river which flows westwards towards the Atlantic The Tarn flows through a dramatic limestone gorge and is famously known for its beautifully clear and green waters The first two days on this river provide easy paddling whilst the third day provides more excitement with some rapids to contend with
We shall also walk through the peculiar region called the Chaos of Montpelier which has been eroded into many curious geological shapes
Of course throughout we shall stay at remote and beautiful places and enjoy the regional cuisine and the local wines
Where We Stay
Le Prieure drsquoOrniols
For the first two nights and for our last night we are at the Le Prieure dOrniols just outside the village of Goudargues Situated besides a small castle Olivier and Grace will welcome us and provide delicious meals in the beautiful small stone chambre dhote
Short walks are available either down to the river or up the lane towards the cause Or a five minute drive will take us to the small town of Goudargues
Le Priure drsquoOrniols
Le Carmel Les Vans
On the third night we are at the Le Carmel near the centre of the small town of Les Vans The hotel is a former 19th Century Convent
The hotel has a small swimming pool and we shall be dining in the pretty restaurant
If you are in the mood for an early morning walk then the town is well worth a stroll around
Le Carmel
Le Cauvel
On our fourth and fifth nights we are at Le Cauvel which is a converted farm-house in the heart of the Cevennes not far from Barres-des-Cevennes The place is run by a pair of brothers and their wives and is guided by green and organic principles We also return here on our 9th night
The hotel sits in a setting of beautiful gardens and flowers with a terrace overlooking the valley You can visit the smallholding which produces the vegetables for the kitchen
We can access the Robert Louis Stevenson Trail directly from the farmstead and possibly visit the farm next door to visit the horses
le Cauvel
Auberge de la Cascade
For the sixth and seventh nights we are at the Auberge de la Cascade in St Chely-du-Tarn The hotel comprises almost the whole of this tiny village which sits besides the Tarn over a narrow bridge barred to most traffic
The early morning walk around the village will reveal a tiny chapel underneath the cliffs as well as a small church
The hotel has a small pool for our use and we shall dine in its lovely restaurant overlooking the square
Auberge de Cascade
Hotel Doussiare
For the eighth night we stay at the Hotel DoussiAtildeumlre in Le Rozier The hotel is next to the River Jonte which joins the Tarn and has terraces overlooking the river where we shall dine in the evening
A walk around the village in the evening is well worth the effort as it sits at the junction of two dramatic valleys
Hotel Belved
For the tenth night we stay at the Hotel Belved just south of Vallons Pont DArc in the Ardeche Gorge itself This comfortable place has a small pool for our use and we shall dine here probably on the terrace this evening
After dinner we can walk a short distance down the road to some riverside camp-sites where we may be able to find some entertainment or at least a refreshing beer or two
Hotel BelvedHotel Douiare
What We See
CAVES
The newly opened (2015) Chauvet caves are a replica of those cave discovered in 1994 near the Pont DrsquoArc The replica like that at Lascaux allows visitors to see the ancient cave paintings without damaging the originals b y exposing them to the atmosphere These spectacular paintings are some of the oldest in Europe and some are 40000 years old and feature animals not seen before in other caves
Aven drsquoOrgnac these caves with interesting geological features are in the Ardeche
LE PLUS BEAUX VILLAGE DE FRANCE
Sainte-Enimie on the banks of the Tarn river
Aiguegraveze overlooking the Ardeche river
Balazuc just above the defiles on the Ardeche river
La Roque-sur-Cegraveze on the banks of the Ceze
Montclus on the banks of the Ceze rive
Voguumleacute on the Ardeche river
Canoeing
All the canoes for the trips are provided by us and include paddles and a life-jacket The price is included in the trip
We always prefer open Canadian style canoes which are paddled in tandem - with two people aboard (usually) If you prefer to paddle solo then this can be arranged These canoes are especially suited for the calm water conditions we will be paddling on and are stable and safe They allow plenty of room for yourself and your stuff
From time to time we get clients who wish to paddle a Kayak We can arrange this for you if you prefer but we do stress that the
rivers we canoe do not really warrant the use of a kayak and we feel tandem paddling in a canoe is the way to go
Most of our clients have been canoeing before but we will insist on reviewing safety procedures at the beginning of paddling each day and revise paddling strokes for those who havent paddled for a while or have paddled on lakes rather than rivers for example
For those who have never paddled before their will be plenty of time for lessons as we go These rivers are ideal places for learning
If time and the inclination allows we can also practise other paddling procedures such as Eddy Turns Peeling Out and Ferrying
The clients will not be expected to lift or carry canoes at any time
Hiking
Although the main focus of the trips will be on the canoeing we will have plenty of time for short walks and longer hikes
Where possible we will walk to and from the river although this is not compulsory
In the appropriate season when early mornings are light we can opt to go for a pre-breakfast walk The length and timing of the walk will depend on a consensus reached between those that wish to walk how early we wish to rise and the time of year
Some of the trails we walk on form part of the network of long-distance paths that criss-cross France These are known as Grand Randonees (GR) and are way-marked by a red and white flash We may walk on the GR4 (which goes from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic) passing through the Ardeche We will walk on the GR70 (the famous Robert Louis Stevenson) which
crosses the Cevennes and also possibly the GR6 which traverse the Tarn
Wildlife
On the river we will see plenty of bird-life both on and around the water We will see Ducks and Herons We will also see Kingfishers Wagtails Dippers and Sandpipers We will see Swal lows and Swi f ts and Martins as well as various other birds crossing our path such as Woodpeckers Jays and other crows as well as the
almost invisible songbirds in the tree and hedges Of the raptors we will see the Common Buzzard and possibly an Osprey or a Kestrel
This area of France has a rich variety of Butterflies and we will see many familiar species (if you are from Britain) We will also see some rather more exotic species such as the two types of Swallowtail the Cleopatra the Banded Grayling and if we are lucky some rarer species such as the Large Blue or the Lesser Purple Emperor or Festoons
The river itself will provide m a n y e x a m p l e s o f t h e Dragonfly and Damselfly family The delicate damsels include the Western Demoiselle the White-Legged the Orange F e a t h e r l e g t h e B l u e Featherleg and various Bluets and Bluetails Of the dragons w e m a y s e e t h e S m a l l Pincertail the Yellow Clubtail
the Pronged Clubtail and the Common Clubtai l amongst others
We will also be able to see many flowers especially early in the season before the meadows are cut and these will include several orchids s u c h a s t h e P u r p l e t h e Pyramid the Bee and the Lizard Orchids
Of course we will also see many trees and shrubs along the river course and in the forests We can have some fun trying to identify them
Of the reptiles we will probably see lizards and hear frogs We sometimes see a Grass Snake swimming in the river (harmless) and sometimes a Viper (the only venomous snake which is small 18 inches long and not very poisonous)
The hardest things to see are the mammals We have seen Nutria and Otters on these rivers and weve also glimpsed Red Squirrels and Mink and Martens along the banks On the early morning walks weve encountered Foxes Roe Deer and Fallow Deer Badgers have only been seen at night in the headlights
The European Beaver swims in these rivers and has been seen just once by me on the lower Ardeche
Maps And Books
GUIDE BOOKS for the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
It is an unfortunate fact that the Ardeche and Tarn areas of France are not served particularly well by guide books A number of walking books and guides are available and no doubt the regions are mentioned in more general guide books to the whole of France If you do discover something then please let us know
Cevennes and Grand Causses (Crossbill Guides) by Dirk Hillbers
The Ceacutevennes National Park together with its twin the Parc Naturel des Grands Causses are among the richest natural areas in France Against a stunning background of steep cliffs extensive forests and open steppe-like plateaux the visitor can discover an exceptional wealth of flora and fauna The hundreds of kilometres of trails and tracks make it easy to explore the area with its wealth of orchids and other wildflowers its superb range of birds and butterflies The traditional medieval villages amidst the impressive mountainous country provide a relaxed starting point for exploration In other words the Ceacutevennes has everything a naturalist could wish for This nature guide is part of the renowned Crossbill Guides series for nature enthusiasts The Crossbill Guides combine interesting and insightful accounts with up-to-date and practical tourist information and observation tips Detailed descriptions of hiking trails and car routes are conveniently linked to information on everything you want to know about the what why and wherefores of the Ceacutevennes and Grands Causses splendid nature
HISTORY
The Discovery of France A Historical Geography from the Revolution to the First World War by Graham Robb
Illuminating engrossing and full of surprises The Discovery of France is a literary exploration of a country few will recognise from maps and migration to magic language and landscape itrsquos a book that reveals the real past of France to tell the whole story and history of this remarkable nation rsquoWith gloriously apposite facts and an abundance of quirky anecdotes and thumbnail sketches of people places and customs Robb on brilliant form takes us on a stunning journey through the historical landscape of Francersquo Independent lsquoCertain books strain the patience of those close to you How many times can you demand Look at this Can you imagine Did you know that Without actually handing over the volume This is such a bookrsquo Mail on Sunday rsquoAn extraordinary journey of discovery that will delight even the most indolent armchair travellerrsquo Daily Telegraph
A Concise History of France by Roger Price
This book provides a clear and well-informed guide to French history from the emergence of a strong state in the Ile-de-France in the early middle ages to the trente glorieuses following the Second World War and the Mitterrand presidency As such it provides the most up-to-date and comprehensive study of French history available Among the books central themes are the relationship between state and society the impact of war and such crucial questions as who possessed political power how this power was used in whose interests and with what consequences Roger Price examines the role of leading figures including Philip Augustus Henri IV Louis XIV the two Napoleans Clemenceau and De Gaulle as well as the lives of ordinary people A rich entertaining guide for the student and general reader
A Travellerrsquos History of France by Robert Cole
The Travellers History series is designed for the traveller who feels they need more historical background information on the country in which they are staying than can be found in an ordinary guidebook For those who want to look deeper and discover more about the roots of France its history and culture in an enjoyable read this is the book to choose Designed for easy reference it is the key to unlocking the secrets of France If you want to find about the mysterious Merovingian kings or the results of the last election if you want to know when Chartres cathedral was built or how Napoleon rose to power or when and where Princess Diana died - youll find it all in A Travellers History of France Undoubtedly the best way to prepare for a trip to France is to bone up on some history The Travellers History of France by Robert Cole is concise and gives the essential facts in a very readable form The Independent This little book is a very good idea indeed a running commentary on the complexities triumphs and tragedies of French history from the Lascaux Caves to the Pompidou centre A must for tourists who want to know what happened where The Birmingham Post A brilliant idea from Gloucestershire publishers Windrush a series of books which give a potted history of European countries Ostensibly aimed at holidaymakers the first on France is an excellent introduction for anyone who wants an idiots guide to a history that has so often intertwined with our own The Oxford Times
FICTION
Travels with a Donkey in the Ceacutevennes and the Amateur Emigrant by Robert Louis Stevenson
In 1878 Robert Louis Srtevenson was suffereing from poor health struggling to survive on the income derived from his writings and tormented by his infatuation with Fanny Osbourne a married American woman His response was to embark on a journey through the Cevennes with a donkey Modestine and a notebook which he later transformed into lsquoTravels with a Donkeyrsquo Just a few months after publication Stevenson was off again - this time crossing the Atlantic and the breadth of America in the hope of being re-united with Fanny an experince he recored in the lsquoThe Amateur Emigrantrsquo Both pieces are classics of travel writing which reveal as much about Stevensonrsquos character as the landscape he travels through
MAPS
Many types of maps are available for this region but I recommend those produced by the Institute Geographique Nationale (IGN)
They have two series of walking maps which are suitable for our canoeing needs
The Top25 series is at a scale of 4cm to the km and the Top100 series is at a scale of 1cm to the km
For the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
TOP25 IGN 2640OT Gorges du Tarn et de la JonteCausse MejeanPn des Cevennes (GPS)
TOP100 IGN 162 RodezMillau
TOP25 IGN 2939OT Gorges de lArdecheBourg-Saint-AndeolVallon-Pont-DArc (Gps)
This map doesnrsquot cover the Gardon Ceze Chassezac or the upper Ardeche just the Gorge of the Ardeche
TOP100 IGN 163 AvignonNimes
This map covers all the rivers on the trip
These maps are available to buy online at IGN and at the usual online book shops
I would recommend the TOP100 maps We have all these maps with us on the trips
G R E E N R I V E R
Green River CanoesWe provide Guided Inn-to-Inn Canoeing Holidays to the south of France in the Perigord Lot Ardeche and Tarn regions
We provide hand-crafted vacations to combine a pleasant activity canoeing with an insight into the regional history and natural history whilst enjoying the local foods and wines
All our holidays comprise of mostly canoeing with some (often optional) hiking The itinerary is planned but is flexible enough to be changed on the day if required
All our holidays are guided Our guests will be accompanied on the river and trail by an experienced guide who knows the area and rivers well Our other guide will accompany us in the background by driving our vehicle between lodgings When necessary this vehicle will be transferring our luggage meeting with us for lunch and generally being available as and when needed
Green River CanoesWe provide Inn-to-Inn Guided Canoeing Trips on beautiful calm green rivers in the Ardeche and Tarn regions of the South of France This brochure describes the following trips 12 Days in the Ardeche amp Tarn 8 Days in the Ardeche and 6 Days on the Tarn with canoeing on the Gardon the Ceze the Chassezac the Tarn and the Ardeche rivers
All our trips are guided Our guests will be accompanied on the river and trail by an experienced guide who knows the area and rivers well Our other guide will accompany us in the background by driving our vehicle between lodgings When necessary this vehicle will be transferring our luggage meeting us for lunch and generally being available as and when needed
All the accommodation on our trips is in small local Hotels Chambre DHotes or BampBs
All our trip prices include transfers canoe hire accommodation (with breakfasts) all lunches and all evening meals
Trips come in two sizes with up to 7 guests we will have 2 guides and with between 8 and 14 guests we will have 3 guides (2 on the river amp trail) Larger groups can be accommodated by request
IntroductionTake your time in examining the summary page for each trip and then look at the day-to-day schedule and the description of the hotels we use This should give you a good idea of what to expect from each trip
The Prices and Dates page is self explanatory and the Details and Queries page may also answer some of the more technical questions you might have
If you have further questions then please do not hesitate to contact us we are only to happy to help
In particular if the dates weve scheduled dont fit your requirements or you would like to change the schedule in some way then we will do our best to help you
If you are a group of 4 or more then we are also happy to arrange a private trip for you Just provide us with the dates you would like the trip your are interested in (with any schedule changes you require) and we will do our utmost to provide it Although our regular and scheduled trips have a maximum of 14 guests and 3 guides larger groups can be accommodated with private and custom trips
12 Day Ardeche And Tarn Trip
On this trip we canoe on the Gardon the Ceze the Chassezac and the Ardeche rivers in the Ardeche region and on the Tarn river in the Tarn region of south-east France We shall explore the Gorges and Mountains of both the Ardeche and the Cevennes which are still relatively remote even to this day
The rivers in the Ardeche flow eastwards towards the Rhone river which itself then flows south to the Mediterranean The Chassezac is a tributary of the Ardeche Each of these rivers in the Ardeche flow through deep and dramatic gorges in limestone country
The Gardon Ceze and Chassezac are calm rivers with easy paddling through beautiful scenery The Ardeche provides a little more excitement with Class 2 and 3 rapids These rapids are short however and the river provides plenty of easy water between them
When we cross over to the Tarn we canoe in a river which flows westwards towards the Atlantic The Tarn also flows through a dramatic limestone gorge and is famously known for its beautifully clear and green waters The first two days on this river provide easy paddling whilst the third day provides more excitement with some rapids to contend with
In-between the canoeing days we shall hike on the parts of the long-distance trail known as the GR70 - the famous Robert Louis Stevenson Trail The author walked this way more than 100 years ago to see for himself how the Hugenots (Protestants) survived in a largely Catholic country The walk is renowned for the difficulty he experienced in dealing with his donkey Modestine
We shall also walk through the peculiar region called the Chaos of Montpelier which has been eroded into many curious geological shapes
Of course throughout we shall stay at remote and beautiful places and enjoy the regional cuisine and the local wines
Day to Day Schedule
Day 1 Arrival first meeting and first canoe
You will be met at the TGV station at Avignon sometime around midday
Alternative arrangements can be made for arrivals such as at regional airports by prior arrangement
The drive to Collias takes about 40 minutes We will stop here for a picnic lunch get to know each other and go over the trip together We will then do a 2 hour canoe on the Gardon River which will finish as we pass underneath the famous Pont du Gard a UNESCO Heritage Roman Aqueduct which is almost 2000 years old
We will then have a 50 minute drive to our accommodation at Le Prieure drsquoOrniols in the charming tiny hamlet of La Bastide just outside Goudargues On our arrival we will be met by our hosts Olivier and Grace
Day 2 A paddle on the Ceze
Today we will paddle the Ceze river from Montclus back to Goudargues
We will have time to visit the walled village of Montclus first before starting our paddle downstream The river passes by some beautiful cliffs as it meanders back towards the village which we will also have time to visit afterwards The village was once a famous spa town and retains some interesting small canals
If time allows we can visit the village of La Roque-sur-Ceze and the local Falls
We remain at the Le Prieure drsquoOrniols tonight
Day 3 Canoeing the Chassezac Gorge
We will canoe a stretch of the Chassezac River today starting at the Iron Bridge and going onto Chaulet a trip of about 3 hours The river meanders wildly through a very deep gorge with some beautiful beaches just ripe for a picnic lunch and some swimming
Late in the day we will take a hike along the rim of the gorge and look down on where we were previously
Tonight we will stay at the former convent at Le Carmel Les Vans just a very short drive away
Day 4 Hiking the Robert Louis Stevenson Trail
In the morning we will have an hours drive to Les Bleynard where we will start our hike on the GR70 (Robert Louis Stevenson Trail) over Mont Lozere to the Pont de Montvert about 12 miles The walk will offer us splendid views over this remote region of France called the Cevennes An alternative is to hike over the Signal de Ventalon and hike directly to our accommodation
Afterwards its a 45 drive to where we stay at a remote farmhouse in the Cevennes at Le Cauvel
Day 5 Another day of hiking on the Stevenson Trail
After breakfast we will walk out onto the GR70 and continue our way on the Stevenson Trail down to St Germain-de-Calberte If we have the energy then our afternoon hike will take us along the Corniche de Cevennes which looks down the Gorge of the Tarnon River Both of these hikes offer exceptional views over the Cevennes mountains and we will pass ancient Sepulcres Dolmens and Standing Stones too
Tonight we will stay at Le Cauvel again
Day 6 The first day in the Tarn Gorge
After a 45 minute drive to Montbrun we will begin our first day on the beautiful Tarn river We will paddle all the way to St Chely-du-Tarn making sure that we stop for a look around the lovely village of St Enimie This is an absolutely stunning river to paddle The river is crystal clear and runs in a fabulously deep gorge in remote country-side
Tonight we will stay in the Auberge de la Cascade in the outstandingly beautiful village of St Chely-du-Tarn We will be able to walk up from the river beach to our hotel
Day 7 The Second Day on the Tarn
After a leisurely breakfast we stroll down to the beach underneath the bridge in the village and prepare for another beautiful days canoeing on the Tarn This section is just as beautiful as yesterday and we will pass some lovely spots including the village of Hauterives an isolated village only reachable by river and the delightful village of La Malene The river squeezes through the famous Detroits (narrows) on our way to Les Baumes Basse where we finish for the day
We are again staying at the Auberge de la Cascade
Day 8 The Final Day on the Tarn
A short drive will take us down-river to where we will begin our final day on the Tarn We will canoe from Les Vignes to Le Rozier along a section of river which is just as dramatic visually as the first two days but a little more bumpy We will have to concentrate as we ride the Class 2 and 3 rapids as we admire the gorge scenery around us
Once again we will be able to walk to our hotel which is the Doussier
Day 9 A Hike on the Chaos de Montpelier
A 35 minute drive we see us arrive at the small village of La Roque St Marguerite where we will begin our hike up to the Chaos de Montpelier a truly strange outcrop of rocks which have been eroded into exotic shapes In the USA these shapes are known as Hoodoos We will spend several hours wandering numerous trails around this area and experience the fabulous views over the plateau and the gorge
A rather longer drive of about 90 minutes will take us across the bleak plateau landscape known as the Cause Noir back to the Cevennes and the farmhouse at Le Cauvel
Day 10 First Day on the Ardeche River
After a 2 hour drive to Balazuc on the section of the Ardeche called the Defiles we will prepare ourselves for our introduction to the exciting Ardeche river On this first part we will canoe through some small Class 2 rapids and riffles and pass some exotic cliffs and pretty villages Like yesterday we will have to be on our toes as we negotiate some boulder fields in-between some calmer stretches of the river
If we are not sated by that section then after a short drive downstream to Vallon Pont DArc we can paddle a short but interesting section of the river which takes us to a beach near our hotel This section begins at the head of the famous Gorge de LArdeche and takes us canoeing through the legendary Pont DArc a natural stone arch through which the river flows This
section will give us an idea for the spills and thrills to come on our next day on the Ardeche
A short walk (or drive) will take us to our lodgings at the Hotel Belved which is also in the Gorge
Day 11 Canoeing the Gorge LArdeche
Today is the big day when we canoe through the fabulous Gorge LArdeche The Gorge is deep the river is remote and the rapids are exciting Between sections of the river where you can admire the fantastic scenery are Class 2 and Class 3 rapids to grab your attention Most of them are short and sweet and several of them can easily be run several times if you are in the mood
This really is a wonderful stretch of river and we will take all day to enjoy it with a sumptuous beach picnic half-way through the long day
When we are finished we will go for a beer or an ice-cream in the beautiful village of Aigueze which overlooks the final stretch of our days paddling
It is then a short drive to re-visit Olivier and Grace at Le Prieure drsquoOrniols where it all began
Day 12 Departure and Farewells
When we are ready we will drive for an hour to the TGV station at Avignon for our return to Paris and beyond
If time allows if say the train departure is after midday then we can visit the old monastery at Chartreuse de Valbonne or the waterfalls at La Roque-sur-Ceze Or indeed we could spend part of the day in Avignon itself
8 Day Ardeche Trip
This trip removes 4 days from the 12 Day trip described in the previous chapter - Days 6 7 8 and 9 Otherwise the itinerary is the same The whole trip is described fully on our website with a complete schedule map details of hotels and our current prices and schedules You can see many photographs there too
On this trip we canoe on the Gardon the Ceze the Chassezac and the Ardeche rivers in the Ardeche region of south-east France We shall explore the Gorges and Mountains of both the Ardeche and the Cevennes which are still relatively remote even to this day
The rivers in the Ardeche flow eastwards towards the Rhone river which itself then flows south to the Mediterranean The Chassezac is a tributary of the Ardeche Each of these rivers in the Ardeche flow through deep and dramatic gorges in limestone country
The Gardon Ceze and Chassezac are calm rivers with easy paddling through beautiful scenery The Ardeche provides a little more excitement with Class 2 and 3 rapids These rapids are short however and the river provides plenty of easy water between them
In-between the canoeing days we shall hike on the parts of the long-distance trail known as the GR70 - the famous Robert Louis Stevenson Trail The author walked this way more than 100 years ago to see for himself how the Hugenots (Protestants) survived in a largely Catholic country The walk is renowned for the difficulty he experienced in dealing with his donkey Modestine
Of course throughout we shall stay at remote and beautiful places and enjoy the regional cuisine and the local wines
6 Day Tarn Trip
This trip concentrates on the Tarn days on 12 Day trip described in the previous chapter - Days 6 7 8 and 9 With an arrival day and a departure day The whole trip is described fully on our website with a complete schedule map details of hotels and our current prices and schedules You can see many photographs there too
On this trip we plan to arrive and depart via the TGV Railway Station at Montpelier
When we are on the Tarn we canoe in a river which flows westwards towards the Atlantic The Tarn flows through a dramatic limestone gorge and is famously known for its beautifully clear and green waters The first two days on this river provide easy paddling whilst the third day provides more excitement with some rapids to contend with
We shall also walk through the peculiar region called the Chaos of Montpelier which has been eroded into many curious geological shapes
Of course throughout we shall stay at remote and beautiful places and enjoy the regional cuisine and the local wines
Where We Stay
Le Prieure drsquoOrniols
For the first two nights and for our last night we are at the Le Prieure dOrniols just outside the village of Goudargues Situated besides a small castle Olivier and Grace will welcome us and provide delicious meals in the beautiful small stone chambre dhote
Short walks are available either down to the river or up the lane towards the cause Or a five minute drive will take us to the small town of Goudargues
Le Priure drsquoOrniols
Le Carmel Les Vans
On the third night we are at the Le Carmel near the centre of the small town of Les Vans The hotel is a former 19th Century Convent
The hotel has a small swimming pool and we shall be dining in the pretty restaurant
If you are in the mood for an early morning walk then the town is well worth a stroll around
Le Carmel
Le Cauvel
On our fourth and fifth nights we are at Le Cauvel which is a converted farm-house in the heart of the Cevennes not far from Barres-des-Cevennes The place is run by a pair of brothers and their wives and is guided by green and organic principles We also return here on our 9th night
The hotel sits in a setting of beautiful gardens and flowers with a terrace overlooking the valley You can visit the smallholding which produces the vegetables for the kitchen
We can access the Robert Louis Stevenson Trail directly from the farmstead and possibly visit the farm next door to visit the horses
le Cauvel
Auberge de la Cascade
For the sixth and seventh nights we are at the Auberge de la Cascade in St Chely-du-Tarn The hotel comprises almost the whole of this tiny village which sits besides the Tarn over a narrow bridge barred to most traffic
The early morning walk around the village will reveal a tiny chapel underneath the cliffs as well as a small church
The hotel has a small pool for our use and we shall dine in its lovely restaurant overlooking the square
Auberge de Cascade
Hotel Doussiare
For the eighth night we stay at the Hotel DoussiAtildeumlre in Le Rozier The hotel is next to the River Jonte which joins the Tarn and has terraces overlooking the river where we shall dine in the evening
A walk around the village in the evening is well worth the effort as it sits at the junction of two dramatic valleys
Hotel Belved
For the tenth night we stay at the Hotel Belved just south of Vallons Pont DArc in the Ardeche Gorge itself This comfortable place has a small pool for our use and we shall dine here probably on the terrace this evening
After dinner we can walk a short distance down the road to some riverside camp-sites where we may be able to find some entertainment or at least a refreshing beer or two
Hotel BelvedHotel Douiare
What We See
CAVES
The newly opened (2015) Chauvet caves are a replica of those cave discovered in 1994 near the Pont DrsquoArc The replica like that at Lascaux allows visitors to see the ancient cave paintings without damaging the originals b y exposing them to the atmosphere These spectacular paintings are some of the oldest in Europe and some are 40000 years old and feature animals not seen before in other caves
Aven drsquoOrgnac these caves with interesting geological features are in the Ardeche
LE PLUS BEAUX VILLAGE DE FRANCE
Sainte-Enimie on the banks of the Tarn river
Aiguegraveze overlooking the Ardeche river
Balazuc just above the defiles on the Ardeche river
La Roque-sur-Cegraveze on the banks of the Ceze
Montclus on the banks of the Ceze rive
Voguumleacute on the Ardeche river
Canoeing
All the canoes for the trips are provided by us and include paddles and a life-jacket The price is included in the trip
We always prefer open Canadian style canoes which are paddled in tandem - with two people aboard (usually) If you prefer to paddle solo then this can be arranged These canoes are especially suited for the calm water conditions we will be paddling on and are stable and safe They allow plenty of room for yourself and your stuff
From time to time we get clients who wish to paddle a Kayak We can arrange this for you if you prefer but we do stress that the
rivers we canoe do not really warrant the use of a kayak and we feel tandem paddling in a canoe is the way to go
Most of our clients have been canoeing before but we will insist on reviewing safety procedures at the beginning of paddling each day and revise paddling strokes for those who havent paddled for a while or have paddled on lakes rather than rivers for example
For those who have never paddled before their will be plenty of time for lessons as we go These rivers are ideal places for learning
If time and the inclination allows we can also practise other paddling procedures such as Eddy Turns Peeling Out and Ferrying
The clients will not be expected to lift or carry canoes at any time
Hiking
Although the main focus of the trips will be on the canoeing we will have plenty of time for short walks and longer hikes
Where possible we will walk to and from the river although this is not compulsory
In the appropriate season when early mornings are light we can opt to go for a pre-breakfast walk The length and timing of the walk will depend on a consensus reached between those that wish to walk how early we wish to rise and the time of year
Some of the trails we walk on form part of the network of long-distance paths that criss-cross France These are known as Grand Randonees (GR) and are way-marked by a red and white flash We may walk on the GR4 (which goes from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic) passing through the Ardeche We will walk on the GR70 (the famous Robert Louis Stevenson) which
crosses the Cevennes and also possibly the GR6 which traverse the Tarn
Wildlife
On the river we will see plenty of bird-life both on and around the water We will see Ducks and Herons We will also see Kingfishers Wagtails Dippers and Sandpipers We will see Swal lows and Swi f ts and Martins as well as various other birds crossing our path such as Woodpeckers Jays and other crows as well as the
almost invisible songbirds in the tree and hedges Of the raptors we will see the Common Buzzard and possibly an Osprey or a Kestrel
This area of France has a rich variety of Butterflies and we will see many familiar species (if you are from Britain) We will also see some rather more exotic species such as the two types of Swallowtail the Cleopatra the Banded Grayling and if we are lucky some rarer species such as the Large Blue or the Lesser Purple Emperor or Festoons
The river itself will provide m a n y e x a m p l e s o f t h e Dragonfly and Damselfly family The delicate damsels include the Western Demoiselle the White-Legged the Orange F e a t h e r l e g t h e B l u e Featherleg and various Bluets and Bluetails Of the dragons w e m a y s e e t h e S m a l l Pincertail the Yellow Clubtail
the Pronged Clubtail and the Common Clubtai l amongst others
We will also be able to see many flowers especially early in the season before the meadows are cut and these will include several orchids s u c h a s t h e P u r p l e t h e Pyramid the Bee and the Lizard Orchids
Of course we will also see many trees and shrubs along the river course and in the forests We can have some fun trying to identify them
Of the reptiles we will probably see lizards and hear frogs We sometimes see a Grass Snake swimming in the river (harmless) and sometimes a Viper (the only venomous snake which is small 18 inches long and not very poisonous)
The hardest things to see are the mammals We have seen Nutria and Otters on these rivers and weve also glimpsed Red Squirrels and Mink and Martens along the banks On the early morning walks weve encountered Foxes Roe Deer and Fallow Deer Badgers have only been seen at night in the headlights
The European Beaver swims in these rivers and has been seen just once by me on the lower Ardeche
Maps And Books
GUIDE BOOKS for the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
It is an unfortunate fact that the Ardeche and Tarn areas of France are not served particularly well by guide books A number of walking books and guides are available and no doubt the regions are mentioned in more general guide books to the whole of France If you do discover something then please let us know
Cevennes and Grand Causses (Crossbill Guides) by Dirk Hillbers
The Ceacutevennes National Park together with its twin the Parc Naturel des Grands Causses are among the richest natural areas in France Against a stunning background of steep cliffs extensive forests and open steppe-like plateaux the visitor can discover an exceptional wealth of flora and fauna The hundreds of kilometres of trails and tracks make it easy to explore the area with its wealth of orchids and other wildflowers its superb range of birds and butterflies The traditional medieval villages amidst the impressive mountainous country provide a relaxed starting point for exploration In other words the Ceacutevennes has everything a naturalist could wish for This nature guide is part of the renowned Crossbill Guides series for nature enthusiasts The Crossbill Guides combine interesting and insightful accounts with up-to-date and practical tourist information and observation tips Detailed descriptions of hiking trails and car routes are conveniently linked to information on everything you want to know about the what why and wherefores of the Ceacutevennes and Grands Causses splendid nature
HISTORY
The Discovery of France A Historical Geography from the Revolution to the First World War by Graham Robb
Illuminating engrossing and full of surprises The Discovery of France is a literary exploration of a country few will recognise from maps and migration to magic language and landscape itrsquos a book that reveals the real past of France to tell the whole story and history of this remarkable nation rsquoWith gloriously apposite facts and an abundance of quirky anecdotes and thumbnail sketches of people places and customs Robb on brilliant form takes us on a stunning journey through the historical landscape of Francersquo Independent lsquoCertain books strain the patience of those close to you How many times can you demand Look at this Can you imagine Did you know that Without actually handing over the volume This is such a bookrsquo Mail on Sunday rsquoAn extraordinary journey of discovery that will delight even the most indolent armchair travellerrsquo Daily Telegraph
A Concise History of France by Roger Price
This book provides a clear and well-informed guide to French history from the emergence of a strong state in the Ile-de-France in the early middle ages to the trente glorieuses following the Second World War and the Mitterrand presidency As such it provides the most up-to-date and comprehensive study of French history available Among the books central themes are the relationship between state and society the impact of war and such crucial questions as who possessed political power how this power was used in whose interests and with what consequences Roger Price examines the role of leading figures including Philip Augustus Henri IV Louis XIV the two Napoleans Clemenceau and De Gaulle as well as the lives of ordinary people A rich entertaining guide for the student and general reader
A Travellerrsquos History of France by Robert Cole
The Travellers History series is designed for the traveller who feels they need more historical background information on the country in which they are staying than can be found in an ordinary guidebook For those who want to look deeper and discover more about the roots of France its history and culture in an enjoyable read this is the book to choose Designed for easy reference it is the key to unlocking the secrets of France If you want to find about the mysterious Merovingian kings or the results of the last election if you want to know when Chartres cathedral was built or how Napoleon rose to power or when and where Princess Diana died - youll find it all in A Travellers History of France Undoubtedly the best way to prepare for a trip to France is to bone up on some history The Travellers History of France by Robert Cole is concise and gives the essential facts in a very readable form The Independent This little book is a very good idea indeed a running commentary on the complexities triumphs and tragedies of French history from the Lascaux Caves to the Pompidou centre A must for tourists who want to know what happened where The Birmingham Post A brilliant idea from Gloucestershire publishers Windrush a series of books which give a potted history of European countries Ostensibly aimed at holidaymakers the first on France is an excellent introduction for anyone who wants an idiots guide to a history that has so often intertwined with our own The Oxford Times
FICTION
Travels with a Donkey in the Ceacutevennes and the Amateur Emigrant by Robert Louis Stevenson
In 1878 Robert Louis Srtevenson was suffereing from poor health struggling to survive on the income derived from his writings and tormented by his infatuation with Fanny Osbourne a married American woman His response was to embark on a journey through the Cevennes with a donkey Modestine and a notebook which he later transformed into lsquoTravels with a Donkeyrsquo Just a few months after publication Stevenson was off again - this time crossing the Atlantic and the breadth of America in the hope of being re-united with Fanny an experince he recored in the lsquoThe Amateur Emigrantrsquo Both pieces are classics of travel writing which reveal as much about Stevensonrsquos character as the landscape he travels through
MAPS
Many types of maps are available for this region but I recommend those produced by the Institute Geographique Nationale (IGN)
They have two series of walking maps which are suitable for our canoeing needs
The Top25 series is at a scale of 4cm to the km and the Top100 series is at a scale of 1cm to the km
For the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
TOP25 IGN 2640OT Gorges du Tarn et de la JonteCausse MejeanPn des Cevennes (GPS)
TOP100 IGN 162 RodezMillau
TOP25 IGN 2939OT Gorges de lArdecheBourg-Saint-AndeolVallon-Pont-DArc (Gps)
This map doesnrsquot cover the Gardon Ceze Chassezac or the upper Ardeche just the Gorge of the Ardeche
TOP100 IGN 163 AvignonNimes
This map covers all the rivers on the trip
These maps are available to buy online at IGN and at the usual online book shops
I would recommend the TOP100 maps We have all these maps with us on the trips
G R E E N R I V E R
Green River CanoesWe provide Guided Inn-to-Inn Canoeing Holidays to the south of France in the Perigord Lot Ardeche and Tarn regions
We provide hand-crafted vacations to combine a pleasant activity canoeing with an insight into the regional history and natural history whilst enjoying the local foods and wines
All our holidays comprise of mostly canoeing with some (often optional) hiking The itinerary is planned but is flexible enough to be changed on the day if required
All our holidays are guided Our guests will be accompanied on the river and trail by an experienced guide who knows the area and rivers well Our other guide will accompany us in the background by driving our vehicle between lodgings When necessary this vehicle will be transferring our luggage meeting with us for lunch and generally being available as and when needed
All the accommodation on our trips is in small local Hotels Chambre DHotes or BampBs
All our trip prices include transfers canoe hire accommodation (with breakfasts) all lunches and all evening meals
Trips come in two sizes with up to 7 guests we will have 2 guides and with between 8 and 14 guests we will have 3 guides (2 on the river amp trail) Larger groups can be accommodated by request
IntroductionTake your time in examining the summary page for each trip and then look at the day-to-day schedule and the description of the hotels we use This should give you a good idea of what to expect from each trip
The Prices and Dates page is self explanatory and the Details and Queries page may also answer some of the more technical questions you might have
If you have further questions then please do not hesitate to contact us we are only to happy to help
In particular if the dates weve scheduled dont fit your requirements or you would like to change the schedule in some way then we will do our best to help you
If you are a group of 4 or more then we are also happy to arrange a private trip for you Just provide us with the dates you would like the trip your are interested in (with any schedule changes you require) and we will do our utmost to provide it Although our regular and scheduled trips have a maximum of 14 guests and 3 guides larger groups can be accommodated with private and custom trips
12 Day Ardeche And Tarn Trip
On this trip we canoe on the Gardon the Ceze the Chassezac and the Ardeche rivers in the Ardeche region and on the Tarn river in the Tarn region of south-east France We shall explore the Gorges and Mountains of both the Ardeche and the Cevennes which are still relatively remote even to this day
The rivers in the Ardeche flow eastwards towards the Rhone river which itself then flows south to the Mediterranean The Chassezac is a tributary of the Ardeche Each of these rivers in the Ardeche flow through deep and dramatic gorges in limestone country
The Gardon Ceze and Chassezac are calm rivers with easy paddling through beautiful scenery The Ardeche provides a little more excitement with Class 2 and 3 rapids These rapids are short however and the river provides plenty of easy water between them
When we cross over to the Tarn we canoe in a river which flows westwards towards the Atlantic The Tarn also flows through a dramatic limestone gorge and is famously known for its beautifully clear and green waters The first two days on this river provide easy paddling whilst the third day provides more excitement with some rapids to contend with
In-between the canoeing days we shall hike on the parts of the long-distance trail known as the GR70 - the famous Robert Louis Stevenson Trail The author walked this way more than 100 years ago to see for himself how the Hugenots (Protestants) survived in a largely Catholic country The walk is renowned for the difficulty he experienced in dealing with his donkey Modestine
We shall also walk through the peculiar region called the Chaos of Montpelier which has been eroded into many curious geological shapes
Of course throughout we shall stay at remote and beautiful places and enjoy the regional cuisine and the local wines
Day to Day Schedule
Day 1 Arrival first meeting and first canoe
You will be met at the TGV station at Avignon sometime around midday
Alternative arrangements can be made for arrivals such as at regional airports by prior arrangement
The drive to Collias takes about 40 minutes We will stop here for a picnic lunch get to know each other and go over the trip together We will then do a 2 hour canoe on the Gardon River which will finish as we pass underneath the famous Pont du Gard a UNESCO Heritage Roman Aqueduct which is almost 2000 years old
We will then have a 50 minute drive to our accommodation at Le Prieure drsquoOrniols in the charming tiny hamlet of La Bastide just outside Goudargues On our arrival we will be met by our hosts Olivier and Grace
Day 2 A paddle on the Ceze
Today we will paddle the Ceze river from Montclus back to Goudargues
We will have time to visit the walled village of Montclus first before starting our paddle downstream The river passes by some beautiful cliffs as it meanders back towards the village which we will also have time to visit afterwards The village was once a famous spa town and retains some interesting small canals
If time allows we can visit the village of La Roque-sur-Ceze and the local Falls
We remain at the Le Prieure drsquoOrniols tonight
Day 3 Canoeing the Chassezac Gorge
We will canoe a stretch of the Chassezac River today starting at the Iron Bridge and going onto Chaulet a trip of about 3 hours The river meanders wildly through a very deep gorge with some beautiful beaches just ripe for a picnic lunch and some swimming
Late in the day we will take a hike along the rim of the gorge and look down on where we were previously
Tonight we will stay at the former convent at Le Carmel Les Vans just a very short drive away
Day 4 Hiking the Robert Louis Stevenson Trail
In the morning we will have an hours drive to Les Bleynard where we will start our hike on the GR70 (Robert Louis Stevenson Trail) over Mont Lozere to the Pont de Montvert about 12 miles The walk will offer us splendid views over this remote region of France called the Cevennes An alternative is to hike over the Signal de Ventalon and hike directly to our accommodation
Afterwards its a 45 drive to where we stay at a remote farmhouse in the Cevennes at Le Cauvel
Day 5 Another day of hiking on the Stevenson Trail
After breakfast we will walk out onto the GR70 and continue our way on the Stevenson Trail down to St Germain-de-Calberte If we have the energy then our afternoon hike will take us along the Corniche de Cevennes which looks down the Gorge of the Tarnon River Both of these hikes offer exceptional views over the Cevennes mountains and we will pass ancient Sepulcres Dolmens and Standing Stones too
Tonight we will stay at Le Cauvel again
Day 6 The first day in the Tarn Gorge
After a 45 minute drive to Montbrun we will begin our first day on the beautiful Tarn river We will paddle all the way to St Chely-du-Tarn making sure that we stop for a look around the lovely village of St Enimie This is an absolutely stunning river to paddle The river is crystal clear and runs in a fabulously deep gorge in remote country-side
Tonight we will stay in the Auberge de la Cascade in the outstandingly beautiful village of St Chely-du-Tarn We will be able to walk up from the river beach to our hotel
Day 7 The Second Day on the Tarn
After a leisurely breakfast we stroll down to the beach underneath the bridge in the village and prepare for another beautiful days canoeing on the Tarn This section is just as beautiful as yesterday and we will pass some lovely spots including the village of Hauterives an isolated village only reachable by river and the delightful village of La Malene The river squeezes through the famous Detroits (narrows) on our way to Les Baumes Basse where we finish for the day
We are again staying at the Auberge de la Cascade
Day 8 The Final Day on the Tarn
A short drive will take us down-river to where we will begin our final day on the Tarn We will canoe from Les Vignes to Le Rozier along a section of river which is just as dramatic visually as the first two days but a little more bumpy We will have to concentrate as we ride the Class 2 and 3 rapids as we admire the gorge scenery around us
Once again we will be able to walk to our hotel which is the Doussier
Day 9 A Hike on the Chaos de Montpelier
A 35 minute drive we see us arrive at the small village of La Roque St Marguerite where we will begin our hike up to the Chaos de Montpelier a truly strange outcrop of rocks which have been eroded into exotic shapes In the USA these shapes are known as Hoodoos We will spend several hours wandering numerous trails around this area and experience the fabulous views over the plateau and the gorge
A rather longer drive of about 90 minutes will take us across the bleak plateau landscape known as the Cause Noir back to the Cevennes and the farmhouse at Le Cauvel
Day 10 First Day on the Ardeche River
After a 2 hour drive to Balazuc on the section of the Ardeche called the Defiles we will prepare ourselves for our introduction to the exciting Ardeche river On this first part we will canoe through some small Class 2 rapids and riffles and pass some exotic cliffs and pretty villages Like yesterday we will have to be on our toes as we negotiate some boulder fields in-between some calmer stretches of the river
If we are not sated by that section then after a short drive downstream to Vallon Pont DArc we can paddle a short but interesting section of the river which takes us to a beach near our hotel This section begins at the head of the famous Gorge de LArdeche and takes us canoeing through the legendary Pont DArc a natural stone arch through which the river flows This
section will give us an idea for the spills and thrills to come on our next day on the Ardeche
A short walk (or drive) will take us to our lodgings at the Hotel Belved which is also in the Gorge
Day 11 Canoeing the Gorge LArdeche
Today is the big day when we canoe through the fabulous Gorge LArdeche The Gorge is deep the river is remote and the rapids are exciting Between sections of the river where you can admire the fantastic scenery are Class 2 and Class 3 rapids to grab your attention Most of them are short and sweet and several of them can easily be run several times if you are in the mood
This really is a wonderful stretch of river and we will take all day to enjoy it with a sumptuous beach picnic half-way through the long day
When we are finished we will go for a beer or an ice-cream in the beautiful village of Aigueze which overlooks the final stretch of our days paddling
It is then a short drive to re-visit Olivier and Grace at Le Prieure drsquoOrniols where it all began
Day 12 Departure and Farewells
When we are ready we will drive for an hour to the TGV station at Avignon for our return to Paris and beyond
If time allows if say the train departure is after midday then we can visit the old monastery at Chartreuse de Valbonne or the waterfalls at La Roque-sur-Ceze Or indeed we could spend part of the day in Avignon itself
8 Day Ardeche Trip
This trip removes 4 days from the 12 Day trip described in the previous chapter - Days 6 7 8 and 9 Otherwise the itinerary is the same The whole trip is described fully on our website with a complete schedule map details of hotels and our current prices and schedules You can see many photographs there too
On this trip we canoe on the Gardon the Ceze the Chassezac and the Ardeche rivers in the Ardeche region of south-east France We shall explore the Gorges and Mountains of both the Ardeche and the Cevennes which are still relatively remote even to this day
The rivers in the Ardeche flow eastwards towards the Rhone river which itself then flows south to the Mediterranean The Chassezac is a tributary of the Ardeche Each of these rivers in the Ardeche flow through deep and dramatic gorges in limestone country
The Gardon Ceze and Chassezac are calm rivers with easy paddling through beautiful scenery The Ardeche provides a little more excitement with Class 2 and 3 rapids These rapids are short however and the river provides plenty of easy water between them
In-between the canoeing days we shall hike on the parts of the long-distance trail known as the GR70 - the famous Robert Louis Stevenson Trail The author walked this way more than 100 years ago to see for himself how the Hugenots (Protestants) survived in a largely Catholic country The walk is renowned for the difficulty he experienced in dealing with his donkey Modestine
Of course throughout we shall stay at remote and beautiful places and enjoy the regional cuisine and the local wines
6 Day Tarn Trip
This trip concentrates on the Tarn days on 12 Day trip described in the previous chapter - Days 6 7 8 and 9 With an arrival day and a departure day The whole trip is described fully on our website with a complete schedule map details of hotels and our current prices and schedules You can see many photographs there too
On this trip we plan to arrive and depart via the TGV Railway Station at Montpelier
When we are on the Tarn we canoe in a river which flows westwards towards the Atlantic The Tarn flows through a dramatic limestone gorge and is famously known for its beautifully clear and green waters The first two days on this river provide easy paddling whilst the third day provides more excitement with some rapids to contend with
We shall also walk through the peculiar region called the Chaos of Montpelier which has been eroded into many curious geological shapes
Of course throughout we shall stay at remote and beautiful places and enjoy the regional cuisine and the local wines
Where We Stay
Le Prieure drsquoOrniols
For the first two nights and for our last night we are at the Le Prieure dOrniols just outside the village of Goudargues Situated besides a small castle Olivier and Grace will welcome us and provide delicious meals in the beautiful small stone chambre dhote
Short walks are available either down to the river or up the lane towards the cause Or a five minute drive will take us to the small town of Goudargues
Le Priure drsquoOrniols
Le Carmel Les Vans
On the third night we are at the Le Carmel near the centre of the small town of Les Vans The hotel is a former 19th Century Convent
The hotel has a small swimming pool and we shall be dining in the pretty restaurant
If you are in the mood for an early morning walk then the town is well worth a stroll around
Le Carmel
Le Cauvel
On our fourth and fifth nights we are at Le Cauvel which is a converted farm-house in the heart of the Cevennes not far from Barres-des-Cevennes The place is run by a pair of brothers and their wives and is guided by green and organic principles We also return here on our 9th night
The hotel sits in a setting of beautiful gardens and flowers with a terrace overlooking the valley You can visit the smallholding which produces the vegetables for the kitchen
We can access the Robert Louis Stevenson Trail directly from the farmstead and possibly visit the farm next door to visit the horses
le Cauvel
Auberge de la Cascade
For the sixth and seventh nights we are at the Auberge de la Cascade in St Chely-du-Tarn The hotel comprises almost the whole of this tiny village which sits besides the Tarn over a narrow bridge barred to most traffic
The early morning walk around the village will reveal a tiny chapel underneath the cliffs as well as a small church
The hotel has a small pool for our use and we shall dine in its lovely restaurant overlooking the square
Auberge de Cascade
Hotel Doussiare
For the eighth night we stay at the Hotel DoussiAtildeumlre in Le Rozier The hotel is next to the River Jonte which joins the Tarn and has terraces overlooking the river where we shall dine in the evening
A walk around the village in the evening is well worth the effort as it sits at the junction of two dramatic valleys
Hotel Belved
For the tenth night we stay at the Hotel Belved just south of Vallons Pont DArc in the Ardeche Gorge itself This comfortable place has a small pool for our use and we shall dine here probably on the terrace this evening
After dinner we can walk a short distance down the road to some riverside camp-sites where we may be able to find some entertainment or at least a refreshing beer or two
Hotel BelvedHotel Douiare
What We See
CAVES
The newly opened (2015) Chauvet caves are a replica of those cave discovered in 1994 near the Pont DrsquoArc The replica like that at Lascaux allows visitors to see the ancient cave paintings without damaging the originals b y exposing them to the atmosphere These spectacular paintings are some of the oldest in Europe and some are 40000 years old and feature animals not seen before in other caves
Aven drsquoOrgnac these caves with interesting geological features are in the Ardeche
LE PLUS BEAUX VILLAGE DE FRANCE
Sainte-Enimie on the banks of the Tarn river
Aiguegraveze overlooking the Ardeche river
Balazuc just above the defiles on the Ardeche river
La Roque-sur-Cegraveze on the banks of the Ceze
Montclus on the banks of the Ceze rive
Voguumleacute on the Ardeche river
Canoeing
All the canoes for the trips are provided by us and include paddles and a life-jacket The price is included in the trip
We always prefer open Canadian style canoes which are paddled in tandem - with two people aboard (usually) If you prefer to paddle solo then this can be arranged These canoes are especially suited for the calm water conditions we will be paddling on and are stable and safe They allow plenty of room for yourself and your stuff
From time to time we get clients who wish to paddle a Kayak We can arrange this for you if you prefer but we do stress that the
rivers we canoe do not really warrant the use of a kayak and we feel tandem paddling in a canoe is the way to go
Most of our clients have been canoeing before but we will insist on reviewing safety procedures at the beginning of paddling each day and revise paddling strokes for those who havent paddled for a while or have paddled on lakes rather than rivers for example
For those who have never paddled before their will be plenty of time for lessons as we go These rivers are ideal places for learning
If time and the inclination allows we can also practise other paddling procedures such as Eddy Turns Peeling Out and Ferrying
The clients will not be expected to lift or carry canoes at any time
Hiking
Although the main focus of the trips will be on the canoeing we will have plenty of time for short walks and longer hikes
Where possible we will walk to and from the river although this is not compulsory
In the appropriate season when early mornings are light we can opt to go for a pre-breakfast walk The length and timing of the walk will depend on a consensus reached between those that wish to walk how early we wish to rise and the time of year
Some of the trails we walk on form part of the network of long-distance paths that criss-cross France These are known as Grand Randonees (GR) and are way-marked by a red and white flash We may walk on the GR4 (which goes from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic) passing through the Ardeche We will walk on the GR70 (the famous Robert Louis Stevenson) which
crosses the Cevennes and also possibly the GR6 which traverse the Tarn
Wildlife
On the river we will see plenty of bird-life both on and around the water We will see Ducks and Herons We will also see Kingfishers Wagtails Dippers and Sandpipers We will see Swal lows and Swi f ts and Martins as well as various other birds crossing our path such as Woodpeckers Jays and other crows as well as the
almost invisible songbirds in the tree and hedges Of the raptors we will see the Common Buzzard and possibly an Osprey or a Kestrel
This area of France has a rich variety of Butterflies and we will see many familiar species (if you are from Britain) We will also see some rather more exotic species such as the two types of Swallowtail the Cleopatra the Banded Grayling and if we are lucky some rarer species such as the Large Blue or the Lesser Purple Emperor or Festoons
The river itself will provide m a n y e x a m p l e s o f t h e Dragonfly and Damselfly family The delicate damsels include the Western Demoiselle the White-Legged the Orange F e a t h e r l e g t h e B l u e Featherleg and various Bluets and Bluetails Of the dragons w e m a y s e e t h e S m a l l Pincertail the Yellow Clubtail
the Pronged Clubtail and the Common Clubtai l amongst others
We will also be able to see many flowers especially early in the season before the meadows are cut and these will include several orchids s u c h a s t h e P u r p l e t h e Pyramid the Bee and the Lizard Orchids
Of course we will also see many trees and shrubs along the river course and in the forests We can have some fun trying to identify them
Of the reptiles we will probably see lizards and hear frogs We sometimes see a Grass Snake swimming in the river (harmless) and sometimes a Viper (the only venomous snake which is small 18 inches long and not very poisonous)
The hardest things to see are the mammals We have seen Nutria and Otters on these rivers and weve also glimpsed Red Squirrels and Mink and Martens along the banks On the early morning walks weve encountered Foxes Roe Deer and Fallow Deer Badgers have only been seen at night in the headlights
The European Beaver swims in these rivers and has been seen just once by me on the lower Ardeche
Maps And Books
GUIDE BOOKS for the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
It is an unfortunate fact that the Ardeche and Tarn areas of France are not served particularly well by guide books A number of walking books and guides are available and no doubt the regions are mentioned in more general guide books to the whole of France If you do discover something then please let us know
Cevennes and Grand Causses (Crossbill Guides) by Dirk Hillbers
The Ceacutevennes National Park together with its twin the Parc Naturel des Grands Causses are among the richest natural areas in France Against a stunning background of steep cliffs extensive forests and open steppe-like plateaux the visitor can discover an exceptional wealth of flora and fauna The hundreds of kilometres of trails and tracks make it easy to explore the area with its wealth of orchids and other wildflowers its superb range of birds and butterflies The traditional medieval villages amidst the impressive mountainous country provide a relaxed starting point for exploration In other words the Ceacutevennes has everything a naturalist could wish for This nature guide is part of the renowned Crossbill Guides series for nature enthusiasts The Crossbill Guides combine interesting and insightful accounts with up-to-date and practical tourist information and observation tips Detailed descriptions of hiking trails and car routes are conveniently linked to information on everything you want to know about the what why and wherefores of the Ceacutevennes and Grands Causses splendid nature
HISTORY
The Discovery of France A Historical Geography from the Revolution to the First World War by Graham Robb
Illuminating engrossing and full of surprises The Discovery of France is a literary exploration of a country few will recognise from maps and migration to magic language and landscape itrsquos a book that reveals the real past of France to tell the whole story and history of this remarkable nation rsquoWith gloriously apposite facts and an abundance of quirky anecdotes and thumbnail sketches of people places and customs Robb on brilliant form takes us on a stunning journey through the historical landscape of Francersquo Independent lsquoCertain books strain the patience of those close to you How many times can you demand Look at this Can you imagine Did you know that Without actually handing over the volume This is such a bookrsquo Mail on Sunday rsquoAn extraordinary journey of discovery that will delight even the most indolent armchair travellerrsquo Daily Telegraph
A Concise History of France by Roger Price
This book provides a clear and well-informed guide to French history from the emergence of a strong state in the Ile-de-France in the early middle ages to the trente glorieuses following the Second World War and the Mitterrand presidency As such it provides the most up-to-date and comprehensive study of French history available Among the books central themes are the relationship between state and society the impact of war and such crucial questions as who possessed political power how this power was used in whose interests and with what consequences Roger Price examines the role of leading figures including Philip Augustus Henri IV Louis XIV the two Napoleans Clemenceau and De Gaulle as well as the lives of ordinary people A rich entertaining guide for the student and general reader
A Travellerrsquos History of France by Robert Cole
The Travellers History series is designed for the traveller who feels they need more historical background information on the country in which they are staying than can be found in an ordinary guidebook For those who want to look deeper and discover more about the roots of France its history and culture in an enjoyable read this is the book to choose Designed for easy reference it is the key to unlocking the secrets of France If you want to find about the mysterious Merovingian kings or the results of the last election if you want to know when Chartres cathedral was built or how Napoleon rose to power or when and where Princess Diana died - youll find it all in A Travellers History of France Undoubtedly the best way to prepare for a trip to France is to bone up on some history The Travellers History of France by Robert Cole is concise and gives the essential facts in a very readable form The Independent This little book is a very good idea indeed a running commentary on the complexities triumphs and tragedies of French history from the Lascaux Caves to the Pompidou centre A must for tourists who want to know what happened where The Birmingham Post A brilliant idea from Gloucestershire publishers Windrush a series of books which give a potted history of European countries Ostensibly aimed at holidaymakers the first on France is an excellent introduction for anyone who wants an idiots guide to a history that has so often intertwined with our own The Oxford Times
FICTION
Travels with a Donkey in the Ceacutevennes and the Amateur Emigrant by Robert Louis Stevenson
In 1878 Robert Louis Srtevenson was suffereing from poor health struggling to survive on the income derived from his writings and tormented by his infatuation with Fanny Osbourne a married American woman His response was to embark on a journey through the Cevennes with a donkey Modestine and a notebook which he later transformed into lsquoTravels with a Donkeyrsquo Just a few months after publication Stevenson was off again - this time crossing the Atlantic and the breadth of America in the hope of being re-united with Fanny an experince he recored in the lsquoThe Amateur Emigrantrsquo Both pieces are classics of travel writing which reveal as much about Stevensonrsquos character as the landscape he travels through
MAPS
Many types of maps are available for this region but I recommend those produced by the Institute Geographique Nationale (IGN)
They have two series of walking maps which are suitable for our canoeing needs
The Top25 series is at a scale of 4cm to the km and the Top100 series is at a scale of 1cm to the km
For the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
TOP25 IGN 2640OT Gorges du Tarn et de la JonteCausse MejeanPn des Cevennes (GPS)
TOP100 IGN 162 RodezMillau
TOP25 IGN 2939OT Gorges de lArdecheBourg-Saint-AndeolVallon-Pont-DArc (Gps)
This map doesnrsquot cover the Gardon Ceze Chassezac or the upper Ardeche just the Gorge of the Ardeche
TOP100 IGN 163 AvignonNimes
This map covers all the rivers on the trip
These maps are available to buy online at IGN and at the usual online book shops
I would recommend the TOP100 maps We have all these maps with us on the trips
G R E E N R I V E R
Green River CanoesWe provide Guided Inn-to-Inn Canoeing Holidays to the south of France in the Perigord Lot Ardeche and Tarn regions
We provide hand-crafted vacations to combine a pleasant activity canoeing with an insight into the regional history and natural history whilst enjoying the local foods and wines
All our holidays comprise of mostly canoeing with some (often optional) hiking The itinerary is planned but is flexible enough to be changed on the day if required
All our holidays are guided Our guests will be accompanied on the river and trail by an experienced guide who knows the area and rivers well Our other guide will accompany us in the background by driving our vehicle between lodgings When necessary this vehicle will be transferring our luggage meeting with us for lunch and generally being available as and when needed
IntroductionTake your time in examining the summary page for each trip and then look at the day-to-day schedule and the description of the hotels we use This should give you a good idea of what to expect from each trip
The Prices and Dates page is self explanatory and the Details and Queries page may also answer some of the more technical questions you might have
If you have further questions then please do not hesitate to contact us we are only to happy to help
In particular if the dates weve scheduled dont fit your requirements or you would like to change the schedule in some way then we will do our best to help you
If you are a group of 4 or more then we are also happy to arrange a private trip for you Just provide us with the dates you would like the trip your are interested in (with any schedule changes you require) and we will do our utmost to provide it Although our regular and scheduled trips have a maximum of 14 guests and 3 guides larger groups can be accommodated with private and custom trips
12 Day Ardeche And Tarn Trip
On this trip we canoe on the Gardon the Ceze the Chassezac and the Ardeche rivers in the Ardeche region and on the Tarn river in the Tarn region of south-east France We shall explore the Gorges and Mountains of both the Ardeche and the Cevennes which are still relatively remote even to this day
The rivers in the Ardeche flow eastwards towards the Rhone river which itself then flows south to the Mediterranean The Chassezac is a tributary of the Ardeche Each of these rivers in the Ardeche flow through deep and dramatic gorges in limestone country
The Gardon Ceze and Chassezac are calm rivers with easy paddling through beautiful scenery The Ardeche provides a little more excitement with Class 2 and 3 rapids These rapids are short however and the river provides plenty of easy water between them
When we cross over to the Tarn we canoe in a river which flows westwards towards the Atlantic The Tarn also flows through a dramatic limestone gorge and is famously known for its beautifully clear and green waters The first two days on this river provide easy paddling whilst the third day provides more excitement with some rapids to contend with
In-between the canoeing days we shall hike on the parts of the long-distance trail known as the GR70 - the famous Robert Louis Stevenson Trail The author walked this way more than 100 years ago to see for himself how the Hugenots (Protestants) survived in a largely Catholic country The walk is renowned for the difficulty he experienced in dealing with his donkey Modestine
We shall also walk through the peculiar region called the Chaos of Montpelier which has been eroded into many curious geological shapes
Of course throughout we shall stay at remote and beautiful places and enjoy the regional cuisine and the local wines
Day to Day Schedule
Day 1 Arrival first meeting and first canoe
You will be met at the TGV station at Avignon sometime around midday
Alternative arrangements can be made for arrivals such as at regional airports by prior arrangement
The drive to Collias takes about 40 minutes We will stop here for a picnic lunch get to know each other and go over the trip together We will then do a 2 hour canoe on the Gardon River which will finish as we pass underneath the famous Pont du Gard a UNESCO Heritage Roman Aqueduct which is almost 2000 years old
We will then have a 50 minute drive to our accommodation at Le Prieure drsquoOrniols in the charming tiny hamlet of La Bastide just outside Goudargues On our arrival we will be met by our hosts Olivier and Grace
Day 2 A paddle on the Ceze
Today we will paddle the Ceze river from Montclus back to Goudargues
We will have time to visit the walled village of Montclus first before starting our paddle downstream The river passes by some beautiful cliffs as it meanders back towards the village which we will also have time to visit afterwards The village was once a famous spa town and retains some interesting small canals
If time allows we can visit the village of La Roque-sur-Ceze and the local Falls
We remain at the Le Prieure drsquoOrniols tonight
Day 3 Canoeing the Chassezac Gorge
We will canoe a stretch of the Chassezac River today starting at the Iron Bridge and going onto Chaulet a trip of about 3 hours The river meanders wildly through a very deep gorge with some beautiful beaches just ripe for a picnic lunch and some swimming
Late in the day we will take a hike along the rim of the gorge and look down on where we were previously
Tonight we will stay at the former convent at Le Carmel Les Vans just a very short drive away
Day 4 Hiking the Robert Louis Stevenson Trail
In the morning we will have an hours drive to Les Bleynard where we will start our hike on the GR70 (Robert Louis Stevenson Trail) over Mont Lozere to the Pont de Montvert about 12 miles The walk will offer us splendid views over this remote region of France called the Cevennes An alternative is to hike over the Signal de Ventalon and hike directly to our accommodation
Afterwards its a 45 drive to where we stay at a remote farmhouse in the Cevennes at Le Cauvel
Day 5 Another day of hiking on the Stevenson Trail
After breakfast we will walk out onto the GR70 and continue our way on the Stevenson Trail down to St Germain-de-Calberte If we have the energy then our afternoon hike will take us along the Corniche de Cevennes which looks down the Gorge of the Tarnon River Both of these hikes offer exceptional views over the Cevennes mountains and we will pass ancient Sepulcres Dolmens and Standing Stones too
Tonight we will stay at Le Cauvel again
Day 6 The first day in the Tarn Gorge
After a 45 minute drive to Montbrun we will begin our first day on the beautiful Tarn river We will paddle all the way to St Chely-du-Tarn making sure that we stop for a look around the lovely village of St Enimie This is an absolutely stunning river to paddle The river is crystal clear and runs in a fabulously deep gorge in remote country-side
Tonight we will stay in the Auberge de la Cascade in the outstandingly beautiful village of St Chely-du-Tarn We will be able to walk up from the river beach to our hotel
Day 7 The Second Day on the Tarn
After a leisurely breakfast we stroll down to the beach underneath the bridge in the village and prepare for another beautiful days canoeing on the Tarn This section is just as beautiful as yesterday and we will pass some lovely spots including the village of Hauterives an isolated village only reachable by river and the delightful village of La Malene The river squeezes through the famous Detroits (narrows) on our way to Les Baumes Basse where we finish for the day
We are again staying at the Auberge de la Cascade
Day 8 The Final Day on the Tarn
A short drive will take us down-river to where we will begin our final day on the Tarn We will canoe from Les Vignes to Le Rozier along a section of river which is just as dramatic visually as the first two days but a little more bumpy We will have to concentrate as we ride the Class 2 and 3 rapids as we admire the gorge scenery around us
Once again we will be able to walk to our hotel which is the Doussier
Day 9 A Hike on the Chaos de Montpelier
A 35 minute drive we see us arrive at the small village of La Roque St Marguerite where we will begin our hike up to the Chaos de Montpelier a truly strange outcrop of rocks which have been eroded into exotic shapes In the USA these shapes are known as Hoodoos We will spend several hours wandering numerous trails around this area and experience the fabulous views over the plateau and the gorge
A rather longer drive of about 90 minutes will take us across the bleak plateau landscape known as the Cause Noir back to the Cevennes and the farmhouse at Le Cauvel
Day 10 First Day on the Ardeche River
After a 2 hour drive to Balazuc on the section of the Ardeche called the Defiles we will prepare ourselves for our introduction to the exciting Ardeche river On this first part we will canoe through some small Class 2 rapids and riffles and pass some exotic cliffs and pretty villages Like yesterday we will have to be on our toes as we negotiate some boulder fields in-between some calmer stretches of the river
If we are not sated by that section then after a short drive downstream to Vallon Pont DArc we can paddle a short but interesting section of the river which takes us to a beach near our hotel This section begins at the head of the famous Gorge de LArdeche and takes us canoeing through the legendary Pont DArc a natural stone arch through which the river flows This
section will give us an idea for the spills and thrills to come on our next day on the Ardeche
A short walk (or drive) will take us to our lodgings at the Hotel Belved which is also in the Gorge
Day 11 Canoeing the Gorge LArdeche
Today is the big day when we canoe through the fabulous Gorge LArdeche The Gorge is deep the river is remote and the rapids are exciting Between sections of the river where you can admire the fantastic scenery are Class 2 and Class 3 rapids to grab your attention Most of them are short and sweet and several of them can easily be run several times if you are in the mood
This really is a wonderful stretch of river and we will take all day to enjoy it with a sumptuous beach picnic half-way through the long day
When we are finished we will go for a beer or an ice-cream in the beautiful village of Aigueze which overlooks the final stretch of our days paddling
It is then a short drive to re-visit Olivier and Grace at Le Prieure drsquoOrniols where it all began
Day 12 Departure and Farewells
When we are ready we will drive for an hour to the TGV station at Avignon for our return to Paris and beyond
If time allows if say the train departure is after midday then we can visit the old monastery at Chartreuse de Valbonne or the waterfalls at La Roque-sur-Ceze Or indeed we could spend part of the day in Avignon itself
8 Day Ardeche Trip
This trip removes 4 days from the 12 Day trip described in the previous chapter - Days 6 7 8 and 9 Otherwise the itinerary is the same The whole trip is described fully on our website with a complete schedule map details of hotels and our current prices and schedules You can see many photographs there too
On this trip we canoe on the Gardon the Ceze the Chassezac and the Ardeche rivers in the Ardeche region of south-east France We shall explore the Gorges and Mountains of both the Ardeche and the Cevennes which are still relatively remote even to this day
The rivers in the Ardeche flow eastwards towards the Rhone river which itself then flows south to the Mediterranean The Chassezac is a tributary of the Ardeche Each of these rivers in the Ardeche flow through deep and dramatic gorges in limestone country
The Gardon Ceze and Chassezac are calm rivers with easy paddling through beautiful scenery The Ardeche provides a little more excitement with Class 2 and 3 rapids These rapids are short however and the river provides plenty of easy water between them
In-between the canoeing days we shall hike on the parts of the long-distance trail known as the GR70 - the famous Robert Louis Stevenson Trail The author walked this way more than 100 years ago to see for himself how the Hugenots (Protestants) survived in a largely Catholic country The walk is renowned for the difficulty he experienced in dealing with his donkey Modestine
Of course throughout we shall stay at remote and beautiful places and enjoy the regional cuisine and the local wines
6 Day Tarn Trip
This trip concentrates on the Tarn days on 12 Day trip described in the previous chapter - Days 6 7 8 and 9 With an arrival day and a departure day The whole trip is described fully on our website with a complete schedule map details of hotels and our current prices and schedules You can see many photographs there too
On this trip we plan to arrive and depart via the TGV Railway Station at Montpelier
When we are on the Tarn we canoe in a river which flows westwards towards the Atlantic The Tarn flows through a dramatic limestone gorge and is famously known for its beautifully clear and green waters The first two days on this river provide easy paddling whilst the third day provides more excitement with some rapids to contend with
We shall also walk through the peculiar region called the Chaos of Montpelier which has been eroded into many curious geological shapes
Of course throughout we shall stay at remote and beautiful places and enjoy the regional cuisine and the local wines
Where We Stay
Le Prieure drsquoOrniols
For the first two nights and for our last night we are at the Le Prieure dOrniols just outside the village of Goudargues Situated besides a small castle Olivier and Grace will welcome us and provide delicious meals in the beautiful small stone chambre dhote
Short walks are available either down to the river or up the lane towards the cause Or a five minute drive will take us to the small town of Goudargues
Le Priure drsquoOrniols
Le Carmel Les Vans
On the third night we are at the Le Carmel near the centre of the small town of Les Vans The hotel is a former 19th Century Convent
The hotel has a small swimming pool and we shall be dining in the pretty restaurant
If you are in the mood for an early morning walk then the town is well worth a stroll around
Le Carmel
Le Cauvel
On our fourth and fifth nights we are at Le Cauvel which is a converted farm-house in the heart of the Cevennes not far from Barres-des-Cevennes The place is run by a pair of brothers and their wives and is guided by green and organic principles We also return here on our 9th night
The hotel sits in a setting of beautiful gardens and flowers with a terrace overlooking the valley You can visit the smallholding which produces the vegetables for the kitchen
We can access the Robert Louis Stevenson Trail directly from the farmstead and possibly visit the farm next door to visit the horses
le Cauvel
Auberge de la Cascade
For the sixth and seventh nights we are at the Auberge de la Cascade in St Chely-du-Tarn The hotel comprises almost the whole of this tiny village which sits besides the Tarn over a narrow bridge barred to most traffic
The early morning walk around the village will reveal a tiny chapel underneath the cliffs as well as a small church
The hotel has a small pool for our use and we shall dine in its lovely restaurant overlooking the square
Auberge de Cascade
Hotel Doussiare
For the eighth night we stay at the Hotel DoussiAtildeumlre in Le Rozier The hotel is next to the River Jonte which joins the Tarn and has terraces overlooking the river where we shall dine in the evening
A walk around the village in the evening is well worth the effort as it sits at the junction of two dramatic valleys
Hotel Belved
For the tenth night we stay at the Hotel Belved just south of Vallons Pont DArc in the Ardeche Gorge itself This comfortable place has a small pool for our use and we shall dine here probably on the terrace this evening
After dinner we can walk a short distance down the road to some riverside camp-sites where we may be able to find some entertainment or at least a refreshing beer or two
Hotel BelvedHotel Douiare
What We See
CAVES
The newly opened (2015) Chauvet caves are a replica of those cave discovered in 1994 near the Pont DrsquoArc The replica like that at Lascaux allows visitors to see the ancient cave paintings without damaging the originals b y exposing them to the atmosphere These spectacular paintings are some of the oldest in Europe and some are 40000 years old and feature animals not seen before in other caves
Aven drsquoOrgnac these caves with interesting geological features are in the Ardeche
LE PLUS BEAUX VILLAGE DE FRANCE
Sainte-Enimie on the banks of the Tarn river
Aiguegraveze overlooking the Ardeche river
Balazuc just above the defiles on the Ardeche river
La Roque-sur-Cegraveze on the banks of the Ceze
Montclus on the banks of the Ceze rive
Voguumleacute on the Ardeche river
Canoeing
All the canoes for the trips are provided by us and include paddles and a life-jacket The price is included in the trip
We always prefer open Canadian style canoes which are paddled in tandem - with two people aboard (usually) If you prefer to paddle solo then this can be arranged These canoes are especially suited for the calm water conditions we will be paddling on and are stable and safe They allow plenty of room for yourself and your stuff
From time to time we get clients who wish to paddle a Kayak We can arrange this for you if you prefer but we do stress that the
rivers we canoe do not really warrant the use of a kayak and we feel tandem paddling in a canoe is the way to go
Most of our clients have been canoeing before but we will insist on reviewing safety procedures at the beginning of paddling each day and revise paddling strokes for those who havent paddled for a while or have paddled on lakes rather than rivers for example
For those who have never paddled before their will be plenty of time for lessons as we go These rivers are ideal places for learning
If time and the inclination allows we can also practise other paddling procedures such as Eddy Turns Peeling Out and Ferrying
The clients will not be expected to lift or carry canoes at any time
Hiking
Although the main focus of the trips will be on the canoeing we will have plenty of time for short walks and longer hikes
Where possible we will walk to and from the river although this is not compulsory
In the appropriate season when early mornings are light we can opt to go for a pre-breakfast walk The length and timing of the walk will depend on a consensus reached between those that wish to walk how early we wish to rise and the time of year
Some of the trails we walk on form part of the network of long-distance paths that criss-cross France These are known as Grand Randonees (GR) and are way-marked by a red and white flash We may walk on the GR4 (which goes from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic) passing through the Ardeche We will walk on the GR70 (the famous Robert Louis Stevenson) which
crosses the Cevennes and also possibly the GR6 which traverse the Tarn
Wildlife
On the river we will see plenty of bird-life both on and around the water We will see Ducks and Herons We will also see Kingfishers Wagtails Dippers and Sandpipers We will see Swal lows and Swi f ts and Martins as well as various other birds crossing our path such as Woodpeckers Jays and other crows as well as the
almost invisible songbirds in the tree and hedges Of the raptors we will see the Common Buzzard and possibly an Osprey or a Kestrel
This area of France has a rich variety of Butterflies and we will see many familiar species (if you are from Britain) We will also see some rather more exotic species such as the two types of Swallowtail the Cleopatra the Banded Grayling and if we are lucky some rarer species such as the Large Blue or the Lesser Purple Emperor or Festoons
The river itself will provide m a n y e x a m p l e s o f t h e Dragonfly and Damselfly family The delicate damsels include the Western Demoiselle the White-Legged the Orange F e a t h e r l e g t h e B l u e Featherleg and various Bluets and Bluetails Of the dragons w e m a y s e e t h e S m a l l Pincertail the Yellow Clubtail
the Pronged Clubtail and the Common Clubtai l amongst others
We will also be able to see many flowers especially early in the season before the meadows are cut and these will include several orchids s u c h a s t h e P u r p l e t h e Pyramid the Bee and the Lizard Orchids
Of course we will also see many trees and shrubs along the river course and in the forests We can have some fun trying to identify them
Of the reptiles we will probably see lizards and hear frogs We sometimes see a Grass Snake swimming in the river (harmless) and sometimes a Viper (the only venomous snake which is small 18 inches long and not very poisonous)
The hardest things to see are the mammals We have seen Nutria and Otters on these rivers and weve also glimpsed Red Squirrels and Mink and Martens along the banks On the early morning walks weve encountered Foxes Roe Deer and Fallow Deer Badgers have only been seen at night in the headlights
The European Beaver swims in these rivers and has been seen just once by me on the lower Ardeche
Maps And Books
GUIDE BOOKS for the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
It is an unfortunate fact that the Ardeche and Tarn areas of France are not served particularly well by guide books A number of walking books and guides are available and no doubt the regions are mentioned in more general guide books to the whole of France If you do discover something then please let us know
Cevennes and Grand Causses (Crossbill Guides) by Dirk Hillbers
The Ceacutevennes National Park together with its twin the Parc Naturel des Grands Causses are among the richest natural areas in France Against a stunning background of steep cliffs extensive forests and open steppe-like plateaux the visitor can discover an exceptional wealth of flora and fauna The hundreds of kilometres of trails and tracks make it easy to explore the area with its wealth of orchids and other wildflowers its superb range of birds and butterflies The traditional medieval villages amidst the impressive mountainous country provide a relaxed starting point for exploration In other words the Ceacutevennes has everything a naturalist could wish for This nature guide is part of the renowned Crossbill Guides series for nature enthusiasts The Crossbill Guides combine interesting and insightful accounts with up-to-date and practical tourist information and observation tips Detailed descriptions of hiking trails and car routes are conveniently linked to information on everything you want to know about the what why and wherefores of the Ceacutevennes and Grands Causses splendid nature
HISTORY
The Discovery of France A Historical Geography from the Revolution to the First World War by Graham Robb
Illuminating engrossing and full of surprises The Discovery of France is a literary exploration of a country few will recognise from maps and migration to magic language and landscape itrsquos a book that reveals the real past of France to tell the whole story and history of this remarkable nation rsquoWith gloriously apposite facts and an abundance of quirky anecdotes and thumbnail sketches of people places and customs Robb on brilliant form takes us on a stunning journey through the historical landscape of Francersquo Independent lsquoCertain books strain the patience of those close to you How many times can you demand Look at this Can you imagine Did you know that Without actually handing over the volume This is such a bookrsquo Mail on Sunday rsquoAn extraordinary journey of discovery that will delight even the most indolent armchair travellerrsquo Daily Telegraph
A Concise History of France by Roger Price
This book provides a clear and well-informed guide to French history from the emergence of a strong state in the Ile-de-France in the early middle ages to the trente glorieuses following the Second World War and the Mitterrand presidency As such it provides the most up-to-date and comprehensive study of French history available Among the books central themes are the relationship between state and society the impact of war and such crucial questions as who possessed political power how this power was used in whose interests and with what consequences Roger Price examines the role of leading figures including Philip Augustus Henri IV Louis XIV the two Napoleans Clemenceau and De Gaulle as well as the lives of ordinary people A rich entertaining guide for the student and general reader
A Travellerrsquos History of France by Robert Cole
The Travellers History series is designed for the traveller who feels they need more historical background information on the country in which they are staying than can be found in an ordinary guidebook For those who want to look deeper and discover more about the roots of France its history and culture in an enjoyable read this is the book to choose Designed for easy reference it is the key to unlocking the secrets of France If you want to find about the mysterious Merovingian kings or the results of the last election if you want to know when Chartres cathedral was built or how Napoleon rose to power or when and where Princess Diana died - youll find it all in A Travellers History of France Undoubtedly the best way to prepare for a trip to France is to bone up on some history The Travellers History of France by Robert Cole is concise and gives the essential facts in a very readable form The Independent This little book is a very good idea indeed a running commentary on the complexities triumphs and tragedies of French history from the Lascaux Caves to the Pompidou centre A must for tourists who want to know what happened where The Birmingham Post A brilliant idea from Gloucestershire publishers Windrush a series of books which give a potted history of European countries Ostensibly aimed at holidaymakers the first on France is an excellent introduction for anyone who wants an idiots guide to a history that has so often intertwined with our own The Oxford Times
FICTION
Travels with a Donkey in the Ceacutevennes and the Amateur Emigrant by Robert Louis Stevenson
In 1878 Robert Louis Srtevenson was suffereing from poor health struggling to survive on the income derived from his writings and tormented by his infatuation with Fanny Osbourne a married American woman His response was to embark on a journey through the Cevennes with a donkey Modestine and a notebook which he later transformed into lsquoTravels with a Donkeyrsquo Just a few months after publication Stevenson was off again - this time crossing the Atlantic and the breadth of America in the hope of being re-united with Fanny an experince he recored in the lsquoThe Amateur Emigrantrsquo Both pieces are classics of travel writing which reveal as much about Stevensonrsquos character as the landscape he travels through
MAPS
Many types of maps are available for this region but I recommend those produced by the Institute Geographique Nationale (IGN)
They have two series of walking maps which are suitable for our canoeing needs
The Top25 series is at a scale of 4cm to the km and the Top100 series is at a scale of 1cm to the km
For the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
TOP25 IGN 2640OT Gorges du Tarn et de la JonteCausse MejeanPn des Cevennes (GPS)
TOP100 IGN 162 RodezMillau
TOP25 IGN 2939OT Gorges de lArdecheBourg-Saint-AndeolVallon-Pont-DArc (Gps)
This map doesnrsquot cover the Gardon Ceze Chassezac or the upper Ardeche just the Gorge of the Ardeche
TOP100 IGN 163 AvignonNimes
This map covers all the rivers on the trip
These maps are available to buy online at IGN and at the usual online book shops
I would recommend the TOP100 maps We have all these maps with us on the trips
G R E E N R I V E R
Green River CanoesWe provide Guided Inn-to-Inn Canoeing Holidays to the south of France in the Perigord Lot Ardeche and Tarn regions
We provide hand-crafted vacations to combine a pleasant activity canoeing with an insight into the regional history and natural history whilst enjoying the local foods and wines
All our holidays comprise of mostly canoeing with some (often optional) hiking The itinerary is planned but is flexible enough to be changed on the day if required
All our holidays are guided Our guests will be accompanied on the river and trail by an experienced guide who knows the area and rivers well Our other guide will accompany us in the background by driving our vehicle between lodgings When necessary this vehicle will be transferring our luggage meeting with us for lunch and generally being available as and when needed
If you are a group of 4 or more then we are also happy to arrange a private trip for you Just provide us with the dates you would like the trip your are interested in (with any schedule changes you require) and we will do our utmost to provide it Although our regular and scheduled trips have a maximum of 14 guests and 3 guides larger groups can be accommodated with private and custom trips
12 Day Ardeche And Tarn Trip
On this trip we canoe on the Gardon the Ceze the Chassezac and the Ardeche rivers in the Ardeche region and on the Tarn river in the Tarn region of south-east France We shall explore the Gorges and Mountains of both the Ardeche and the Cevennes which are still relatively remote even to this day
The rivers in the Ardeche flow eastwards towards the Rhone river which itself then flows south to the Mediterranean The Chassezac is a tributary of the Ardeche Each of these rivers in the Ardeche flow through deep and dramatic gorges in limestone country
The Gardon Ceze and Chassezac are calm rivers with easy paddling through beautiful scenery The Ardeche provides a little more excitement with Class 2 and 3 rapids These rapids are short however and the river provides plenty of easy water between them
When we cross over to the Tarn we canoe in a river which flows westwards towards the Atlantic The Tarn also flows through a dramatic limestone gorge and is famously known for its beautifully clear and green waters The first two days on this river provide easy paddling whilst the third day provides more excitement with some rapids to contend with
In-between the canoeing days we shall hike on the parts of the long-distance trail known as the GR70 - the famous Robert Louis Stevenson Trail The author walked this way more than 100 years ago to see for himself how the Hugenots (Protestants) survived in a largely Catholic country The walk is renowned for the difficulty he experienced in dealing with his donkey Modestine
We shall also walk through the peculiar region called the Chaos of Montpelier which has been eroded into many curious geological shapes
Of course throughout we shall stay at remote and beautiful places and enjoy the regional cuisine and the local wines
Day to Day Schedule
Day 1 Arrival first meeting and first canoe
You will be met at the TGV station at Avignon sometime around midday
Alternative arrangements can be made for arrivals such as at regional airports by prior arrangement
The drive to Collias takes about 40 minutes We will stop here for a picnic lunch get to know each other and go over the trip together We will then do a 2 hour canoe on the Gardon River which will finish as we pass underneath the famous Pont du Gard a UNESCO Heritage Roman Aqueduct which is almost 2000 years old
We will then have a 50 minute drive to our accommodation at Le Prieure drsquoOrniols in the charming tiny hamlet of La Bastide just outside Goudargues On our arrival we will be met by our hosts Olivier and Grace
Day 2 A paddle on the Ceze
Today we will paddle the Ceze river from Montclus back to Goudargues
We will have time to visit the walled village of Montclus first before starting our paddle downstream The river passes by some beautiful cliffs as it meanders back towards the village which we will also have time to visit afterwards The village was once a famous spa town and retains some interesting small canals
If time allows we can visit the village of La Roque-sur-Ceze and the local Falls
We remain at the Le Prieure drsquoOrniols tonight
Day 3 Canoeing the Chassezac Gorge
We will canoe a stretch of the Chassezac River today starting at the Iron Bridge and going onto Chaulet a trip of about 3 hours The river meanders wildly through a very deep gorge with some beautiful beaches just ripe for a picnic lunch and some swimming
Late in the day we will take a hike along the rim of the gorge and look down on where we were previously
Tonight we will stay at the former convent at Le Carmel Les Vans just a very short drive away
Day 4 Hiking the Robert Louis Stevenson Trail
In the morning we will have an hours drive to Les Bleynard where we will start our hike on the GR70 (Robert Louis Stevenson Trail) over Mont Lozere to the Pont de Montvert about 12 miles The walk will offer us splendid views over this remote region of France called the Cevennes An alternative is to hike over the Signal de Ventalon and hike directly to our accommodation
Afterwards its a 45 drive to where we stay at a remote farmhouse in the Cevennes at Le Cauvel
Day 5 Another day of hiking on the Stevenson Trail
After breakfast we will walk out onto the GR70 and continue our way on the Stevenson Trail down to St Germain-de-Calberte If we have the energy then our afternoon hike will take us along the Corniche de Cevennes which looks down the Gorge of the Tarnon River Both of these hikes offer exceptional views over the Cevennes mountains and we will pass ancient Sepulcres Dolmens and Standing Stones too
Tonight we will stay at Le Cauvel again
Day 6 The first day in the Tarn Gorge
After a 45 minute drive to Montbrun we will begin our first day on the beautiful Tarn river We will paddle all the way to St Chely-du-Tarn making sure that we stop for a look around the lovely village of St Enimie This is an absolutely stunning river to paddle The river is crystal clear and runs in a fabulously deep gorge in remote country-side
Tonight we will stay in the Auberge de la Cascade in the outstandingly beautiful village of St Chely-du-Tarn We will be able to walk up from the river beach to our hotel
Day 7 The Second Day on the Tarn
After a leisurely breakfast we stroll down to the beach underneath the bridge in the village and prepare for another beautiful days canoeing on the Tarn This section is just as beautiful as yesterday and we will pass some lovely spots including the village of Hauterives an isolated village only reachable by river and the delightful village of La Malene The river squeezes through the famous Detroits (narrows) on our way to Les Baumes Basse where we finish for the day
We are again staying at the Auberge de la Cascade
Day 8 The Final Day on the Tarn
A short drive will take us down-river to where we will begin our final day on the Tarn We will canoe from Les Vignes to Le Rozier along a section of river which is just as dramatic visually as the first two days but a little more bumpy We will have to concentrate as we ride the Class 2 and 3 rapids as we admire the gorge scenery around us
Once again we will be able to walk to our hotel which is the Doussier
Day 9 A Hike on the Chaos de Montpelier
A 35 minute drive we see us arrive at the small village of La Roque St Marguerite where we will begin our hike up to the Chaos de Montpelier a truly strange outcrop of rocks which have been eroded into exotic shapes In the USA these shapes are known as Hoodoos We will spend several hours wandering numerous trails around this area and experience the fabulous views over the plateau and the gorge
A rather longer drive of about 90 minutes will take us across the bleak plateau landscape known as the Cause Noir back to the Cevennes and the farmhouse at Le Cauvel
Day 10 First Day on the Ardeche River
After a 2 hour drive to Balazuc on the section of the Ardeche called the Defiles we will prepare ourselves for our introduction to the exciting Ardeche river On this first part we will canoe through some small Class 2 rapids and riffles and pass some exotic cliffs and pretty villages Like yesterday we will have to be on our toes as we negotiate some boulder fields in-between some calmer stretches of the river
If we are not sated by that section then after a short drive downstream to Vallon Pont DArc we can paddle a short but interesting section of the river which takes us to a beach near our hotel This section begins at the head of the famous Gorge de LArdeche and takes us canoeing through the legendary Pont DArc a natural stone arch through which the river flows This
section will give us an idea for the spills and thrills to come on our next day on the Ardeche
A short walk (or drive) will take us to our lodgings at the Hotel Belved which is also in the Gorge
Day 11 Canoeing the Gorge LArdeche
Today is the big day when we canoe through the fabulous Gorge LArdeche The Gorge is deep the river is remote and the rapids are exciting Between sections of the river where you can admire the fantastic scenery are Class 2 and Class 3 rapids to grab your attention Most of them are short and sweet and several of them can easily be run several times if you are in the mood
This really is a wonderful stretch of river and we will take all day to enjoy it with a sumptuous beach picnic half-way through the long day
When we are finished we will go for a beer or an ice-cream in the beautiful village of Aigueze which overlooks the final stretch of our days paddling
It is then a short drive to re-visit Olivier and Grace at Le Prieure drsquoOrniols where it all began
Day 12 Departure and Farewells
When we are ready we will drive for an hour to the TGV station at Avignon for our return to Paris and beyond
If time allows if say the train departure is after midday then we can visit the old monastery at Chartreuse de Valbonne or the waterfalls at La Roque-sur-Ceze Or indeed we could spend part of the day in Avignon itself
8 Day Ardeche Trip
This trip removes 4 days from the 12 Day trip described in the previous chapter - Days 6 7 8 and 9 Otherwise the itinerary is the same The whole trip is described fully on our website with a complete schedule map details of hotels and our current prices and schedules You can see many photographs there too
On this trip we canoe on the Gardon the Ceze the Chassezac and the Ardeche rivers in the Ardeche region of south-east France We shall explore the Gorges and Mountains of both the Ardeche and the Cevennes which are still relatively remote even to this day
The rivers in the Ardeche flow eastwards towards the Rhone river which itself then flows south to the Mediterranean The Chassezac is a tributary of the Ardeche Each of these rivers in the Ardeche flow through deep and dramatic gorges in limestone country
The Gardon Ceze and Chassezac are calm rivers with easy paddling through beautiful scenery The Ardeche provides a little more excitement with Class 2 and 3 rapids These rapids are short however and the river provides plenty of easy water between them
In-between the canoeing days we shall hike on the parts of the long-distance trail known as the GR70 - the famous Robert Louis Stevenson Trail The author walked this way more than 100 years ago to see for himself how the Hugenots (Protestants) survived in a largely Catholic country The walk is renowned for the difficulty he experienced in dealing with his donkey Modestine
Of course throughout we shall stay at remote and beautiful places and enjoy the regional cuisine and the local wines
6 Day Tarn Trip
This trip concentrates on the Tarn days on 12 Day trip described in the previous chapter - Days 6 7 8 and 9 With an arrival day and a departure day The whole trip is described fully on our website with a complete schedule map details of hotels and our current prices and schedules You can see many photographs there too
On this trip we plan to arrive and depart via the TGV Railway Station at Montpelier
When we are on the Tarn we canoe in a river which flows westwards towards the Atlantic The Tarn flows through a dramatic limestone gorge and is famously known for its beautifully clear and green waters The first two days on this river provide easy paddling whilst the third day provides more excitement with some rapids to contend with
We shall also walk through the peculiar region called the Chaos of Montpelier which has been eroded into many curious geological shapes
Of course throughout we shall stay at remote and beautiful places and enjoy the regional cuisine and the local wines
Where We Stay
Le Prieure drsquoOrniols
For the first two nights and for our last night we are at the Le Prieure dOrniols just outside the village of Goudargues Situated besides a small castle Olivier and Grace will welcome us and provide delicious meals in the beautiful small stone chambre dhote
Short walks are available either down to the river or up the lane towards the cause Or a five minute drive will take us to the small town of Goudargues
Le Priure drsquoOrniols
Le Carmel Les Vans
On the third night we are at the Le Carmel near the centre of the small town of Les Vans The hotel is a former 19th Century Convent
The hotel has a small swimming pool and we shall be dining in the pretty restaurant
If you are in the mood for an early morning walk then the town is well worth a stroll around
Le Carmel
Le Cauvel
On our fourth and fifth nights we are at Le Cauvel which is a converted farm-house in the heart of the Cevennes not far from Barres-des-Cevennes The place is run by a pair of brothers and their wives and is guided by green and organic principles We also return here on our 9th night
The hotel sits in a setting of beautiful gardens and flowers with a terrace overlooking the valley You can visit the smallholding which produces the vegetables for the kitchen
We can access the Robert Louis Stevenson Trail directly from the farmstead and possibly visit the farm next door to visit the horses
le Cauvel
Auberge de la Cascade
For the sixth and seventh nights we are at the Auberge de la Cascade in St Chely-du-Tarn The hotel comprises almost the whole of this tiny village which sits besides the Tarn over a narrow bridge barred to most traffic
The early morning walk around the village will reveal a tiny chapel underneath the cliffs as well as a small church
The hotel has a small pool for our use and we shall dine in its lovely restaurant overlooking the square
Auberge de Cascade
Hotel Doussiare
For the eighth night we stay at the Hotel DoussiAtildeumlre in Le Rozier The hotel is next to the River Jonte which joins the Tarn and has terraces overlooking the river where we shall dine in the evening
A walk around the village in the evening is well worth the effort as it sits at the junction of two dramatic valleys
Hotel Belved
For the tenth night we stay at the Hotel Belved just south of Vallons Pont DArc in the Ardeche Gorge itself This comfortable place has a small pool for our use and we shall dine here probably on the terrace this evening
After dinner we can walk a short distance down the road to some riverside camp-sites where we may be able to find some entertainment or at least a refreshing beer or two
Hotel BelvedHotel Douiare
What We See
CAVES
The newly opened (2015) Chauvet caves are a replica of those cave discovered in 1994 near the Pont DrsquoArc The replica like that at Lascaux allows visitors to see the ancient cave paintings without damaging the originals b y exposing them to the atmosphere These spectacular paintings are some of the oldest in Europe and some are 40000 years old and feature animals not seen before in other caves
Aven drsquoOrgnac these caves with interesting geological features are in the Ardeche
LE PLUS BEAUX VILLAGE DE FRANCE
Sainte-Enimie on the banks of the Tarn river
Aiguegraveze overlooking the Ardeche river
Balazuc just above the defiles on the Ardeche river
La Roque-sur-Cegraveze on the banks of the Ceze
Montclus on the banks of the Ceze rive
Voguumleacute on the Ardeche river
Canoeing
All the canoes for the trips are provided by us and include paddles and a life-jacket The price is included in the trip
We always prefer open Canadian style canoes which are paddled in tandem - with two people aboard (usually) If you prefer to paddle solo then this can be arranged These canoes are especially suited for the calm water conditions we will be paddling on and are stable and safe They allow plenty of room for yourself and your stuff
From time to time we get clients who wish to paddle a Kayak We can arrange this for you if you prefer but we do stress that the
rivers we canoe do not really warrant the use of a kayak and we feel tandem paddling in a canoe is the way to go
Most of our clients have been canoeing before but we will insist on reviewing safety procedures at the beginning of paddling each day and revise paddling strokes for those who havent paddled for a while or have paddled on lakes rather than rivers for example
For those who have never paddled before their will be plenty of time for lessons as we go These rivers are ideal places for learning
If time and the inclination allows we can also practise other paddling procedures such as Eddy Turns Peeling Out and Ferrying
The clients will not be expected to lift or carry canoes at any time
Hiking
Although the main focus of the trips will be on the canoeing we will have plenty of time for short walks and longer hikes
Where possible we will walk to and from the river although this is not compulsory
In the appropriate season when early mornings are light we can opt to go for a pre-breakfast walk The length and timing of the walk will depend on a consensus reached between those that wish to walk how early we wish to rise and the time of year
Some of the trails we walk on form part of the network of long-distance paths that criss-cross France These are known as Grand Randonees (GR) and are way-marked by a red and white flash We may walk on the GR4 (which goes from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic) passing through the Ardeche We will walk on the GR70 (the famous Robert Louis Stevenson) which
crosses the Cevennes and also possibly the GR6 which traverse the Tarn
Wildlife
On the river we will see plenty of bird-life both on and around the water We will see Ducks and Herons We will also see Kingfishers Wagtails Dippers and Sandpipers We will see Swal lows and Swi f ts and Martins as well as various other birds crossing our path such as Woodpeckers Jays and other crows as well as the
almost invisible songbirds in the tree and hedges Of the raptors we will see the Common Buzzard and possibly an Osprey or a Kestrel
This area of France has a rich variety of Butterflies and we will see many familiar species (if you are from Britain) We will also see some rather more exotic species such as the two types of Swallowtail the Cleopatra the Banded Grayling and if we are lucky some rarer species such as the Large Blue or the Lesser Purple Emperor or Festoons
The river itself will provide m a n y e x a m p l e s o f t h e Dragonfly and Damselfly family The delicate damsels include the Western Demoiselle the White-Legged the Orange F e a t h e r l e g t h e B l u e Featherleg and various Bluets and Bluetails Of the dragons w e m a y s e e t h e S m a l l Pincertail the Yellow Clubtail
the Pronged Clubtail and the Common Clubtai l amongst others
We will also be able to see many flowers especially early in the season before the meadows are cut and these will include several orchids s u c h a s t h e P u r p l e t h e Pyramid the Bee and the Lizard Orchids
Of course we will also see many trees and shrubs along the river course and in the forests We can have some fun trying to identify them
Of the reptiles we will probably see lizards and hear frogs We sometimes see a Grass Snake swimming in the river (harmless) and sometimes a Viper (the only venomous snake which is small 18 inches long and not very poisonous)
The hardest things to see are the mammals We have seen Nutria and Otters on these rivers and weve also glimpsed Red Squirrels and Mink and Martens along the banks On the early morning walks weve encountered Foxes Roe Deer and Fallow Deer Badgers have only been seen at night in the headlights
The European Beaver swims in these rivers and has been seen just once by me on the lower Ardeche
Maps And Books
GUIDE BOOKS for the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
It is an unfortunate fact that the Ardeche and Tarn areas of France are not served particularly well by guide books A number of walking books and guides are available and no doubt the regions are mentioned in more general guide books to the whole of France If you do discover something then please let us know
Cevennes and Grand Causses (Crossbill Guides) by Dirk Hillbers
The Ceacutevennes National Park together with its twin the Parc Naturel des Grands Causses are among the richest natural areas in France Against a stunning background of steep cliffs extensive forests and open steppe-like plateaux the visitor can discover an exceptional wealth of flora and fauna The hundreds of kilometres of trails and tracks make it easy to explore the area with its wealth of orchids and other wildflowers its superb range of birds and butterflies The traditional medieval villages amidst the impressive mountainous country provide a relaxed starting point for exploration In other words the Ceacutevennes has everything a naturalist could wish for This nature guide is part of the renowned Crossbill Guides series for nature enthusiasts The Crossbill Guides combine interesting and insightful accounts with up-to-date and practical tourist information and observation tips Detailed descriptions of hiking trails and car routes are conveniently linked to information on everything you want to know about the what why and wherefores of the Ceacutevennes and Grands Causses splendid nature
HISTORY
The Discovery of France A Historical Geography from the Revolution to the First World War by Graham Robb
Illuminating engrossing and full of surprises The Discovery of France is a literary exploration of a country few will recognise from maps and migration to magic language and landscape itrsquos a book that reveals the real past of France to tell the whole story and history of this remarkable nation rsquoWith gloriously apposite facts and an abundance of quirky anecdotes and thumbnail sketches of people places and customs Robb on brilliant form takes us on a stunning journey through the historical landscape of Francersquo Independent lsquoCertain books strain the patience of those close to you How many times can you demand Look at this Can you imagine Did you know that Without actually handing over the volume This is such a bookrsquo Mail on Sunday rsquoAn extraordinary journey of discovery that will delight even the most indolent armchair travellerrsquo Daily Telegraph
A Concise History of France by Roger Price
This book provides a clear and well-informed guide to French history from the emergence of a strong state in the Ile-de-France in the early middle ages to the trente glorieuses following the Second World War and the Mitterrand presidency As such it provides the most up-to-date and comprehensive study of French history available Among the books central themes are the relationship between state and society the impact of war and such crucial questions as who possessed political power how this power was used in whose interests and with what consequences Roger Price examines the role of leading figures including Philip Augustus Henri IV Louis XIV the two Napoleans Clemenceau and De Gaulle as well as the lives of ordinary people A rich entertaining guide for the student and general reader
A Travellerrsquos History of France by Robert Cole
The Travellers History series is designed for the traveller who feels they need more historical background information on the country in which they are staying than can be found in an ordinary guidebook For those who want to look deeper and discover more about the roots of France its history and culture in an enjoyable read this is the book to choose Designed for easy reference it is the key to unlocking the secrets of France If you want to find about the mysterious Merovingian kings or the results of the last election if you want to know when Chartres cathedral was built or how Napoleon rose to power or when and where Princess Diana died - youll find it all in A Travellers History of France Undoubtedly the best way to prepare for a trip to France is to bone up on some history The Travellers History of France by Robert Cole is concise and gives the essential facts in a very readable form The Independent This little book is a very good idea indeed a running commentary on the complexities triumphs and tragedies of French history from the Lascaux Caves to the Pompidou centre A must for tourists who want to know what happened where The Birmingham Post A brilliant idea from Gloucestershire publishers Windrush a series of books which give a potted history of European countries Ostensibly aimed at holidaymakers the first on France is an excellent introduction for anyone who wants an idiots guide to a history that has so often intertwined with our own The Oxford Times
FICTION
Travels with a Donkey in the Ceacutevennes and the Amateur Emigrant by Robert Louis Stevenson
In 1878 Robert Louis Srtevenson was suffereing from poor health struggling to survive on the income derived from his writings and tormented by his infatuation with Fanny Osbourne a married American woman His response was to embark on a journey through the Cevennes with a donkey Modestine and a notebook which he later transformed into lsquoTravels with a Donkeyrsquo Just a few months after publication Stevenson was off again - this time crossing the Atlantic and the breadth of America in the hope of being re-united with Fanny an experince he recored in the lsquoThe Amateur Emigrantrsquo Both pieces are classics of travel writing which reveal as much about Stevensonrsquos character as the landscape he travels through
MAPS
Many types of maps are available for this region but I recommend those produced by the Institute Geographique Nationale (IGN)
They have two series of walking maps which are suitable for our canoeing needs
The Top25 series is at a scale of 4cm to the km and the Top100 series is at a scale of 1cm to the km
For the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
TOP25 IGN 2640OT Gorges du Tarn et de la JonteCausse MejeanPn des Cevennes (GPS)
TOP100 IGN 162 RodezMillau
TOP25 IGN 2939OT Gorges de lArdecheBourg-Saint-AndeolVallon-Pont-DArc (Gps)
This map doesnrsquot cover the Gardon Ceze Chassezac or the upper Ardeche just the Gorge of the Ardeche
TOP100 IGN 163 AvignonNimes
This map covers all the rivers on the trip
These maps are available to buy online at IGN and at the usual online book shops
I would recommend the TOP100 maps We have all these maps with us on the trips
G R E E N R I V E R
Green River CanoesWe provide Guided Inn-to-Inn Canoeing Holidays to the south of France in the Perigord Lot Ardeche and Tarn regions
We provide hand-crafted vacations to combine a pleasant activity canoeing with an insight into the regional history and natural history whilst enjoying the local foods and wines
All our holidays comprise of mostly canoeing with some (often optional) hiking The itinerary is planned but is flexible enough to be changed on the day if required
All our holidays are guided Our guests will be accompanied on the river and trail by an experienced guide who knows the area and rivers well Our other guide will accompany us in the background by driving our vehicle between lodgings When necessary this vehicle will be transferring our luggage meeting with us for lunch and generally being available as and when needed
12 Day Ardeche And Tarn Trip
On this trip we canoe on the Gardon the Ceze the Chassezac and the Ardeche rivers in the Ardeche region and on the Tarn river in the Tarn region of south-east France We shall explore the Gorges and Mountains of both the Ardeche and the Cevennes which are still relatively remote even to this day
The rivers in the Ardeche flow eastwards towards the Rhone river which itself then flows south to the Mediterranean The Chassezac is a tributary of the Ardeche Each of these rivers in the Ardeche flow through deep and dramatic gorges in limestone country
The Gardon Ceze and Chassezac are calm rivers with easy paddling through beautiful scenery The Ardeche provides a little more excitement with Class 2 and 3 rapids These rapids are short however and the river provides plenty of easy water between them
When we cross over to the Tarn we canoe in a river which flows westwards towards the Atlantic The Tarn also flows through a dramatic limestone gorge and is famously known for its beautifully clear and green waters The first two days on this river provide easy paddling whilst the third day provides more excitement with some rapids to contend with
In-between the canoeing days we shall hike on the parts of the long-distance trail known as the GR70 - the famous Robert Louis Stevenson Trail The author walked this way more than 100 years ago to see for himself how the Hugenots (Protestants) survived in a largely Catholic country The walk is renowned for the difficulty he experienced in dealing with his donkey Modestine
We shall also walk through the peculiar region called the Chaos of Montpelier which has been eroded into many curious geological shapes
Of course throughout we shall stay at remote and beautiful places and enjoy the regional cuisine and the local wines
Day to Day Schedule
Day 1 Arrival first meeting and first canoe
You will be met at the TGV station at Avignon sometime around midday
Alternative arrangements can be made for arrivals such as at regional airports by prior arrangement
The drive to Collias takes about 40 minutes We will stop here for a picnic lunch get to know each other and go over the trip together We will then do a 2 hour canoe on the Gardon River which will finish as we pass underneath the famous Pont du Gard a UNESCO Heritage Roman Aqueduct which is almost 2000 years old
We will then have a 50 minute drive to our accommodation at Le Prieure drsquoOrniols in the charming tiny hamlet of La Bastide just outside Goudargues On our arrival we will be met by our hosts Olivier and Grace
Day 2 A paddle on the Ceze
Today we will paddle the Ceze river from Montclus back to Goudargues
We will have time to visit the walled village of Montclus first before starting our paddle downstream The river passes by some beautiful cliffs as it meanders back towards the village which we will also have time to visit afterwards The village was once a famous spa town and retains some interesting small canals
If time allows we can visit the village of La Roque-sur-Ceze and the local Falls
We remain at the Le Prieure drsquoOrniols tonight
Day 3 Canoeing the Chassezac Gorge
We will canoe a stretch of the Chassezac River today starting at the Iron Bridge and going onto Chaulet a trip of about 3 hours The river meanders wildly through a very deep gorge with some beautiful beaches just ripe for a picnic lunch and some swimming
Late in the day we will take a hike along the rim of the gorge and look down on where we were previously
Tonight we will stay at the former convent at Le Carmel Les Vans just a very short drive away
Day 4 Hiking the Robert Louis Stevenson Trail
In the morning we will have an hours drive to Les Bleynard where we will start our hike on the GR70 (Robert Louis Stevenson Trail) over Mont Lozere to the Pont de Montvert about 12 miles The walk will offer us splendid views over this remote region of France called the Cevennes An alternative is to hike over the Signal de Ventalon and hike directly to our accommodation
Afterwards its a 45 drive to where we stay at a remote farmhouse in the Cevennes at Le Cauvel
Day 5 Another day of hiking on the Stevenson Trail
After breakfast we will walk out onto the GR70 and continue our way on the Stevenson Trail down to St Germain-de-Calberte If we have the energy then our afternoon hike will take us along the Corniche de Cevennes which looks down the Gorge of the Tarnon River Both of these hikes offer exceptional views over the Cevennes mountains and we will pass ancient Sepulcres Dolmens and Standing Stones too
Tonight we will stay at Le Cauvel again
Day 6 The first day in the Tarn Gorge
After a 45 minute drive to Montbrun we will begin our first day on the beautiful Tarn river We will paddle all the way to St Chely-du-Tarn making sure that we stop for a look around the lovely village of St Enimie This is an absolutely stunning river to paddle The river is crystal clear and runs in a fabulously deep gorge in remote country-side
Tonight we will stay in the Auberge de la Cascade in the outstandingly beautiful village of St Chely-du-Tarn We will be able to walk up from the river beach to our hotel
Day 7 The Second Day on the Tarn
After a leisurely breakfast we stroll down to the beach underneath the bridge in the village and prepare for another beautiful days canoeing on the Tarn This section is just as beautiful as yesterday and we will pass some lovely spots including the village of Hauterives an isolated village only reachable by river and the delightful village of La Malene The river squeezes through the famous Detroits (narrows) on our way to Les Baumes Basse where we finish for the day
We are again staying at the Auberge de la Cascade
Day 8 The Final Day on the Tarn
A short drive will take us down-river to where we will begin our final day on the Tarn We will canoe from Les Vignes to Le Rozier along a section of river which is just as dramatic visually as the first two days but a little more bumpy We will have to concentrate as we ride the Class 2 and 3 rapids as we admire the gorge scenery around us
Once again we will be able to walk to our hotel which is the Doussier
Day 9 A Hike on the Chaos de Montpelier
A 35 minute drive we see us arrive at the small village of La Roque St Marguerite where we will begin our hike up to the Chaos de Montpelier a truly strange outcrop of rocks which have been eroded into exotic shapes In the USA these shapes are known as Hoodoos We will spend several hours wandering numerous trails around this area and experience the fabulous views over the plateau and the gorge
A rather longer drive of about 90 minutes will take us across the bleak plateau landscape known as the Cause Noir back to the Cevennes and the farmhouse at Le Cauvel
Day 10 First Day on the Ardeche River
After a 2 hour drive to Balazuc on the section of the Ardeche called the Defiles we will prepare ourselves for our introduction to the exciting Ardeche river On this first part we will canoe through some small Class 2 rapids and riffles and pass some exotic cliffs and pretty villages Like yesterday we will have to be on our toes as we negotiate some boulder fields in-between some calmer stretches of the river
If we are not sated by that section then after a short drive downstream to Vallon Pont DArc we can paddle a short but interesting section of the river which takes us to a beach near our hotel This section begins at the head of the famous Gorge de LArdeche and takes us canoeing through the legendary Pont DArc a natural stone arch through which the river flows This
section will give us an idea for the spills and thrills to come on our next day on the Ardeche
A short walk (or drive) will take us to our lodgings at the Hotel Belved which is also in the Gorge
Day 11 Canoeing the Gorge LArdeche
Today is the big day when we canoe through the fabulous Gorge LArdeche The Gorge is deep the river is remote and the rapids are exciting Between sections of the river where you can admire the fantastic scenery are Class 2 and Class 3 rapids to grab your attention Most of them are short and sweet and several of them can easily be run several times if you are in the mood
This really is a wonderful stretch of river and we will take all day to enjoy it with a sumptuous beach picnic half-way through the long day
When we are finished we will go for a beer or an ice-cream in the beautiful village of Aigueze which overlooks the final stretch of our days paddling
It is then a short drive to re-visit Olivier and Grace at Le Prieure drsquoOrniols where it all began
Day 12 Departure and Farewells
When we are ready we will drive for an hour to the TGV station at Avignon for our return to Paris and beyond
If time allows if say the train departure is after midday then we can visit the old monastery at Chartreuse de Valbonne or the waterfalls at La Roque-sur-Ceze Or indeed we could spend part of the day in Avignon itself
8 Day Ardeche Trip
This trip removes 4 days from the 12 Day trip described in the previous chapter - Days 6 7 8 and 9 Otherwise the itinerary is the same The whole trip is described fully on our website with a complete schedule map details of hotels and our current prices and schedules You can see many photographs there too
On this trip we canoe on the Gardon the Ceze the Chassezac and the Ardeche rivers in the Ardeche region of south-east France We shall explore the Gorges and Mountains of both the Ardeche and the Cevennes which are still relatively remote even to this day
The rivers in the Ardeche flow eastwards towards the Rhone river which itself then flows south to the Mediterranean The Chassezac is a tributary of the Ardeche Each of these rivers in the Ardeche flow through deep and dramatic gorges in limestone country
The Gardon Ceze and Chassezac are calm rivers with easy paddling through beautiful scenery The Ardeche provides a little more excitement with Class 2 and 3 rapids These rapids are short however and the river provides plenty of easy water between them
In-between the canoeing days we shall hike on the parts of the long-distance trail known as the GR70 - the famous Robert Louis Stevenson Trail The author walked this way more than 100 years ago to see for himself how the Hugenots (Protestants) survived in a largely Catholic country The walk is renowned for the difficulty he experienced in dealing with his donkey Modestine
Of course throughout we shall stay at remote and beautiful places and enjoy the regional cuisine and the local wines
6 Day Tarn Trip
This trip concentrates on the Tarn days on 12 Day trip described in the previous chapter - Days 6 7 8 and 9 With an arrival day and a departure day The whole trip is described fully on our website with a complete schedule map details of hotels and our current prices and schedules You can see many photographs there too
On this trip we plan to arrive and depart via the TGV Railway Station at Montpelier
When we are on the Tarn we canoe in a river which flows westwards towards the Atlantic The Tarn flows through a dramatic limestone gorge and is famously known for its beautifully clear and green waters The first two days on this river provide easy paddling whilst the third day provides more excitement with some rapids to contend with
We shall also walk through the peculiar region called the Chaos of Montpelier which has been eroded into many curious geological shapes
Of course throughout we shall stay at remote and beautiful places and enjoy the regional cuisine and the local wines
Where We Stay
Le Prieure drsquoOrniols
For the first two nights and for our last night we are at the Le Prieure dOrniols just outside the village of Goudargues Situated besides a small castle Olivier and Grace will welcome us and provide delicious meals in the beautiful small stone chambre dhote
Short walks are available either down to the river or up the lane towards the cause Or a five minute drive will take us to the small town of Goudargues
Le Priure drsquoOrniols
Le Carmel Les Vans
On the third night we are at the Le Carmel near the centre of the small town of Les Vans The hotel is a former 19th Century Convent
The hotel has a small swimming pool and we shall be dining in the pretty restaurant
If you are in the mood for an early morning walk then the town is well worth a stroll around
Le Carmel
Le Cauvel
On our fourth and fifth nights we are at Le Cauvel which is a converted farm-house in the heart of the Cevennes not far from Barres-des-Cevennes The place is run by a pair of brothers and their wives and is guided by green and organic principles We also return here on our 9th night
The hotel sits in a setting of beautiful gardens and flowers with a terrace overlooking the valley You can visit the smallholding which produces the vegetables for the kitchen
We can access the Robert Louis Stevenson Trail directly from the farmstead and possibly visit the farm next door to visit the horses
le Cauvel
Auberge de la Cascade
For the sixth and seventh nights we are at the Auberge de la Cascade in St Chely-du-Tarn The hotel comprises almost the whole of this tiny village which sits besides the Tarn over a narrow bridge barred to most traffic
The early morning walk around the village will reveal a tiny chapel underneath the cliffs as well as a small church
The hotel has a small pool for our use and we shall dine in its lovely restaurant overlooking the square
Auberge de Cascade
Hotel Doussiare
For the eighth night we stay at the Hotel DoussiAtildeumlre in Le Rozier The hotel is next to the River Jonte which joins the Tarn and has terraces overlooking the river where we shall dine in the evening
A walk around the village in the evening is well worth the effort as it sits at the junction of two dramatic valleys
Hotel Belved
For the tenth night we stay at the Hotel Belved just south of Vallons Pont DArc in the Ardeche Gorge itself This comfortable place has a small pool for our use and we shall dine here probably on the terrace this evening
After dinner we can walk a short distance down the road to some riverside camp-sites where we may be able to find some entertainment or at least a refreshing beer or two
Hotel BelvedHotel Douiare
What We See
CAVES
The newly opened (2015) Chauvet caves are a replica of those cave discovered in 1994 near the Pont DrsquoArc The replica like that at Lascaux allows visitors to see the ancient cave paintings without damaging the originals b y exposing them to the atmosphere These spectacular paintings are some of the oldest in Europe and some are 40000 years old and feature animals not seen before in other caves
Aven drsquoOrgnac these caves with interesting geological features are in the Ardeche
LE PLUS BEAUX VILLAGE DE FRANCE
Sainte-Enimie on the banks of the Tarn river
Aiguegraveze overlooking the Ardeche river
Balazuc just above the defiles on the Ardeche river
La Roque-sur-Cegraveze on the banks of the Ceze
Montclus on the banks of the Ceze rive
Voguumleacute on the Ardeche river
Canoeing
All the canoes for the trips are provided by us and include paddles and a life-jacket The price is included in the trip
We always prefer open Canadian style canoes which are paddled in tandem - with two people aboard (usually) If you prefer to paddle solo then this can be arranged These canoes are especially suited for the calm water conditions we will be paddling on and are stable and safe They allow plenty of room for yourself and your stuff
From time to time we get clients who wish to paddle a Kayak We can arrange this for you if you prefer but we do stress that the
rivers we canoe do not really warrant the use of a kayak and we feel tandem paddling in a canoe is the way to go
Most of our clients have been canoeing before but we will insist on reviewing safety procedures at the beginning of paddling each day and revise paddling strokes for those who havent paddled for a while or have paddled on lakes rather than rivers for example
For those who have never paddled before their will be plenty of time for lessons as we go These rivers are ideal places for learning
If time and the inclination allows we can also practise other paddling procedures such as Eddy Turns Peeling Out and Ferrying
The clients will not be expected to lift or carry canoes at any time
Hiking
Although the main focus of the trips will be on the canoeing we will have plenty of time for short walks and longer hikes
Where possible we will walk to and from the river although this is not compulsory
In the appropriate season when early mornings are light we can opt to go for a pre-breakfast walk The length and timing of the walk will depend on a consensus reached between those that wish to walk how early we wish to rise and the time of year
Some of the trails we walk on form part of the network of long-distance paths that criss-cross France These are known as Grand Randonees (GR) and are way-marked by a red and white flash We may walk on the GR4 (which goes from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic) passing through the Ardeche We will walk on the GR70 (the famous Robert Louis Stevenson) which
crosses the Cevennes and also possibly the GR6 which traverse the Tarn
Wildlife
On the river we will see plenty of bird-life both on and around the water We will see Ducks and Herons We will also see Kingfishers Wagtails Dippers and Sandpipers We will see Swal lows and Swi f ts and Martins as well as various other birds crossing our path such as Woodpeckers Jays and other crows as well as the
almost invisible songbirds in the tree and hedges Of the raptors we will see the Common Buzzard and possibly an Osprey or a Kestrel
This area of France has a rich variety of Butterflies and we will see many familiar species (if you are from Britain) We will also see some rather more exotic species such as the two types of Swallowtail the Cleopatra the Banded Grayling and if we are lucky some rarer species such as the Large Blue or the Lesser Purple Emperor or Festoons
The river itself will provide m a n y e x a m p l e s o f t h e Dragonfly and Damselfly family The delicate damsels include the Western Demoiselle the White-Legged the Orange F e a t h e r l e g t h e B l u e Featherleg and various Bluets and Bluetails Of the dragons w e m a y s e e t h e S m a l l Pincertail the Yellow Clubtail
the Pronged Clubtail and the Common Clubtai l amongst others
We will also be able to see many flowers especially early in the season before the meadows are cut and these will include several orchids s u c h a s t h e P u r p l e t h e Pyramid the Bee and the Lizard Orchids
Of course we will also see many trees and shrubs along the river course and in the forests We can have some fun trying to identify them
Of the reptiles we will probably see lizards and hear frogs We sometimes see a Grass Snake swimming in the river (harmless) and sometimes a Viper (the only venomous snake which is small 18 inches long and not very poisonous)
The hardest things to see are the mammals We have seen Nutria and Otters on these rivers and weve also glimpsed Red Squirrels and Mink and Martens along the banks On the early morning walks weve encountered Foxes Roe Deer and Fallow Deer Badgers have only been seen at night in the headlights
The European Beaver swims in these rivers and has been seen just once by me on the lower Ardeche
Maps And Books
GUIDE BOOKS for the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
It is an unfortunate fact that the Ardeche and Tarn areas of France are not served particularly well by guide books A number of walking books and guides are available and no doubt the regions are mentioned in more general guide books to the whole of France If you do discover something then please let us know
Cevennes and Grand Causses (Crossbill Guides) by Dirk Hillbers
The Ceacutevennes National Park together with its twin the Parc Naturel des Grands Causses are among the richest natural areas in France Against a stunning background of steep cliffs extensive forests and open steppe-like plateaux the visitor can discover an exceptional wealth of flora and fauna The hundreds of kilometres of trails and tracks make it easy to explore the area with its wealth of orchids and other wildflowers its superb range of birds and butterflies The traditional medieval villages amidst the impressive mountainous country provide a relaxed starting point for exploration In other words the Ceacutevennes has everything a naturalist could wish for This nature guide is part of the renowned Crossbill Guides series for nature enthusiasts The Crossbill Guides combine interesting and insightful accounts with up-to-date and practical tourist information and observation tips Detailed descriptions of hiking trails and car routes are conveniently linked to information on everything you want to know about the what why and wherefores of the Ceacutevennes and Grands Causses splendid nature
HISTORY
The Discovery of France A Historical Geography from the Revolution to the First World War by Graham Robb
Illuminating engrossing and full of surprises The Discovery of France is a literary exploration of a country few will recognise from maps and migration to magic language and landscape itrsquos a book that reveals the real past of France to tell the whole story and history of this remarkable nation rsquoWith gloriously apposite facts and an abundance of quirky anecdotes and thumbnail sketches of people places and customs Robb on brilliant form takes us on a stunning journey through the historical landscape of Francersquo Independent lsquoCertain books strain the patience of those close to you How many times can you demand Look at this Can you imagine Did you know that Without actually handing over the volume This is such a bookrsquo Mail on Sunday rsquoAn extraordinary journey of discovery that will delight even the most indolent armchair travellerrsquo Daily Telegraph
A Concise History of France by Roger Price
This book provides a clear and well-informed guide to French history from the emergence of a strong state in the Ile-de-France in the early middle ages to the trente glorieuses following the Second World War and the Mitterrand presidency As such it provides the most up-to-date and comprehensive study of French history available Among the books central themes are the relationship between state and society the impact of war and such crucial questions as who possessed political power how this power was used in whose interests and with what consequences Roger Price examines the role of leading figures including Philip Augustus Henri IV Louis XIV the two Napoleans Clemenceau and De Gaulle as well as the lives of ordinary people A rich entertaining guide for the student and general reader
A Travellerrsquos History of France by Robert Cole
The Travellers History series is designed for the traveller who feels they need more historical background information on the country in which they are staying than can be found in an ordinary guidebook For those who want to look deeper and discover more about the roots of France its history and culture in an enjoyable read this is the book to choose Designed for easy reference it is the key to unlocking the secrets of France If you want to find about the mysterious Merovingian kings or the results of the last election if you want to know when Chartres cathedral was built or how Napoleon rose to power or when and where Princess Diana died - youll find it all in A Travellers History of France Undoubtedly the best way to prepare for a trip to France is to bone up on some history The Travellers History of France by Robert Cole is concise and gives the essential facts in a very readable form The Independent This little book is a very good idea indeed a running commentary on the complexities triumphs and tragedies of French history from the Lascaux Caves to the Pompidou centre A must for tourists who want to know what happened where The Birmingham Post A brilliant idea from Gloucestershire publishers Windrush a series of books which give a potted history of European countries Ostensibly aimed at holidaymakers the first on France is an excellent introduction for anyone who wants an idiots guide to a history that has so often intertwined with our own The Oxford Times
FICTION
Travels with a Donkey in the Ceacutevennes and the Amateur Emigrant by Robert Louis Stevenson
In 1878 Robert Louis Srtevenson was suffereing from poor health struggling to survive on the income derived from his writings and tormented by his infatuation with Fanny Osbourne a married American woman His response was to embark on a journey through the Cevennes with a donkey Modestine and a notebook which he later transformed into lsquoTravels with a Donkeyrsquo Just a few months after publication Stevenson was off again - this time crossing the Atlantic and the breadth of America in the hope of being re-united with Fanny an experince he recored in the lsquoThe Amateur Emigrantrsquo Both pieces are classics of travel writing which reveal as much about Stevensonrsquos character as the landscape he travels through
MAPS
Many types of maps are available for this region but I recommend those produced by the Institute Geographique Nationale (IGN)
They have two series of walking maps which are suitable for our canoeing needs
The Top25 series is at a scale of 4cm to the km and the Top100 series is at a scale of 1cm to the km
For the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
TOP25 IGN 2640OT Gorges du Tarn et de la JonteCausse MejeanPn des Cevennes (GPS)
TOP100 IGN 162 RodezMillau
TOP25 IGN 2939OT Gorges de lArdecheBourg-Saint-AndeolVallon-Pont-DArc (Gps)
This map doesnrsquot cover the Gardon Ceze Chassezac or the upper Ardeche just the Gorge of the Ardeche
TOP100 IGN 163 AvignonNimes
This map covers all the rivers on the trip
These maps are available to buy online at IGN and at the usual online book shops
I would recommend the TOP100 maps We have all these maps with us on the trips
G R E E N R I V E R
Green River CanoesWe provide Guided Inn-to-Inn Canoeing Holidays to the south of France in the Perigord Lot Ardeche and Tarn regions
We provide hand-crafted vacations to combine a pleasant activity canoeing with an insight into the regional history and natural history whilst enjoying the local foods and wines
All our holidays comprise of mostly canoeing with some (often optional) hiking The itinerary is planned but is flexible enough to be changed on the day if required
All our holidays are guided Our guests will be accompanied on the river and trail by an experienced guide who knows the area and rivers well Our other guide will accompany us in the background by driving our vehicle between lodgings When necessary this vehicle will be transferring our luggage meeting with us for lunch and generally being available as and when needed
We shall also walk through the peculiar region called the Chaos of Montpelier which has been eroded into many curious geological shapes
Of course throughout we shall stay at remote and beautiful places and enjoy the regional cuisine and the local wines
Day to Day Schedule
Day 1 Arrival first meeting and first canoe
You will be met at the TGV station at Avignon sometime around midday
Alternative arrangements can be made for arrivals such as at regional airports by prior arrangement
The drive to Collias takes about 40 minutes We will stop here for a picnic lunch get to know each other and go over the trip together We will then do a 2 hour canoe on the Gardon River which will finish as we pass underneath the famous Pont du Gard a UNESCO Heritage Roman Aqueduct which is almost 2000 years old
We will then have a 50 minute drive to our accommodation at Le Prieure drsquoOrniols in the charming tiny hamlet of La Bastide just outside Goudargues On our arrival we will be met by our hosts Olivier and Grace
Day 2 A paddle on the Ceze
Today we will paddle the Ceze river from Montclus back to Goudargues
We will have time to visit the walled village of Montclus first before starting our paddle downstream The river passes by some beautiful cliffs as it meanders back towards the village which we will also have time to visit afterwards The village was once a famous spa town and retains some interesting small canals
If time allows we can visit the village of La Roque-sur-Ceze and the local Falls
We remain at the Le Prieure drsquoOrniols tonight
Day 3 Canoeing the Chassezac Gorge
We will canoe a stretch of the Chassezac River today starting at the Iron Bridge and going onto Chaulet a trip of about 3 hours The river meanders wildly through a very deep gorge with some beautiful beaches just ripe for a picnic lunch and some swimming
Late in the day we will take a hike along the rim of the gorge and look down on where we were previously
Tonight we will stay at the former convent at Le Carmel Les Vans just a very short drive away
Day 4 Hiking the Robert Louis Stevenson Trail
In the morning we will have an hours drive to Les Bleynard where we will start our hike on the GR70 (Robert Louis Stevenson Trail) over Mont Lozere to the Pont de Montvert about 12 miles The walk will offer us splendid views over this remote region of France called the Cevennes An alternative is to hike over the Signal de Ventalon and hike directly to our accommodation
Afterwards its a 45 drive to where we stay at a remote farmhouse in the Cevennes at Le Cauvel
Day 5 Another day of hiking on the Stevenson Trail
After breakfast we will walk out onto the GR70 and continue our way on the Stevenson Trail down to St Germain-de-Calberte If we have the energy then our afternoon hike will take us along the Corniche de Cevennes which looks down the Gorge of the Tarnon River Both of these hikes offer exceptional views over the Cevennes mountains and we will pass ancient Sepulcres Dolmens and Standing Stones too
Tonight we will stay at Le Cauvel again
Day 6 The first day in the Tarn Gorge
After a 45 minute drive to Montbrun we will begin our first day on the beautiful Tarn river We will paddle all the way to St Chely-du-Tarn making sure that we stop for a look around the lovely village of St Enimie This is an absolutely stunning river to paddle The river is crystal clear and runs in a fabulously deep gorge in remote country-side
Tonight we will stay in the Auberge de la Cascade in the outstandingly beautiful village of St Chely-du-Tarn We will be able to walk up from the river beach to our hotel
Day 7 The Second Day on the Tarn
After a leisurely breakfast we stroll down to the beach underneath the bridge in the village and prepare for another beautiful days canoeing on the Tarn This section is just as beautiful as yesterday and we will pass some lovely spots including the village of Hauterives an isolated village only reachable by river and the delightful village of La Malene The river squeezes through the famous Detroits (narrows) on our way to Les Baumes Basse where we finish for the day
We are again staying at the Auberge de la Cascade
Day 8 The Final Day on the Tarn
A short drive will take us down-river to where we will begin our final day on the Tarn We will canoe from Les Vignes to Le Rozier along a section of river which is just as dramatic visually as the first two days but a little more bumpy We will have to concentrate as we ride the Class 2 and 3 rapids as we admire the gorge scenery around us
Once again we will be able to walk to our hotel which is the Doussier
Day 9 A Hike on the Chaos de Montpelier
A 35 minute drive we see us arrive at the small village of La Roque St Marguerite where we will begin our hike up to the Chaos de Montpelier a truly strange outcrop of rocks which have been eroded into exotic shapes In the USA these shapes are known as Hoodoos We will spend several hours wandering numerous trails around this area and experience the fabulous views over the plateau and the gorge
A rather longer drive of about 90 minutes will take us across the bleak plateau landscape known as the Cause Noir back to the Cevennes and the farmhouse at Le Cauvel
Day 10 First Day on the Ardeche River
After a 2 hour drive to Balazuc on the section of the Ardeche called the Defiles we will prepare ourselves for our introduction to the exciting Ardeche river On this first part we will canoe through some small Class 2 rapids and riffles and pass some exotic cliffs and pretty villages Like yesterday we will have to be on our toes as we negotiate some boulder fields in-between some calmer stretches of the river
If we are not sated by that section then after a short drive downstream to Vallon Pont DArc we can paddle a short but interesting section of the river which takes us to a beach near our hotel This section begins at the head of the famous Gorge de LArdeche and takes us canoeing through the legendary Pont DArc a natural stone arch through which the river flows This
section will give us an idea for the spills and thrills to come on our next day on the Ardeche
A short walk (or drive) will take us to our lodgings at the Hotel Belved which is also in the Gorge
Day 11 Canoeing the Gorge LArdeche
Today is the big day when we canoe through the fabulous Gorge LArdeche The Gorge is deep the river is remote and the rapids are exciting Between sections of the river where you can admire the fantastic scenery are Class 2 and Class 3 rapids to grab your attention Most of them are short and sweet and several of them can easily be run several times if you are in the mood
This really is a wonderful stretch of river and we will take all day to enjoy it with a sumptuous beach picnic half-way through the long day
When we are finished we will go for a beer or an ice-cream in the beautiful village of Aigueze which overlooks the final stretch of our days paddling
It is then a short drive to re-visit Olivier and Grace at Le Prieure drsquoOrniols where it all began
Day 12 Departure and Farewells
When we are ready we will drive for an hour to the TGV station at Avignon for our return to Paris and beyond
If time allows if say the train departure is after midday then we can visit the old monastery at Chartreuse de Valbonne or the waterfalls at La Roque-sur-Ceze Or indeed we could spend part of the day in Avignon itself
8 Day Ardeche Trip
This trip removes 4 days from the 12 Day trip described in the previous chapter - Days 6 7 8 and 9 Otherwise the itinerary is the same The whole trip is described fully on our website with a complete schedule map details of hotels and our current prices and schedules You can see many photographs there too
On this trip we canoe on the Gardon the Ceze the Chassezac and the Ardeche rivers in the Ardeche region of south-east France We shall explore the Gorges and Mountains of both the Ardeche and the Cevennes which are still relatively remote even to this day
The rivers in the Ardeche flow eastwards towards the Rhone river which itself then flows south to the Mediterranean The Chassezac is a tributary of the Ardeche Each of these rivers in the Ardeche flow through deep and dramatic gorges in limestone country
The Gardon Ceze and Chassezac are calm rivers with easy paddling through beautiful scenery The Ardeche provides a little more excitement with Class 2 and 3 rapids These rapids are short however and the river provides plenty of easy water between them
In-between the canoeing days we shall hike on the parts of the long-distance trail known as the GR70 - the famous Robert Louis Stevenson Trail The author walked this way more than 100 years ago to see for himself how the Hugenots (Protestants) survived in a largely Catholic country The walk is renowned for the difficulty he experienced in dealing with his donkey Modestine
Of course throughout we shall stay at remote and beautiful places and enjoy the regional cuisine and the local wines
6 Day Tarn Trip
This trip concentrates on the Tarn days on 12 Day trip described in the previous chapter - Days 6 7 8 and 9 With an arrival day and a departure day The whole trip is described fully on our website with a complete schedule map details of hotels and our current prices and schedules You can see many photographs there too
On this trip we plan to arrive and depart via the TGV Railway Station at Montpelier
When we are on the Tarn we canoe in a river which flows westwards towards the Atlantic The Tarn flows through a dramatic limestone gorge and is famously known for its beautifully clear and green waters The first two days on this river provide easy paddling whilst the third day provides more excitement with some rapids to contend with
We shall also walk through the peculiar region called the Chaos of Montpelier which has been eroded into many curious geological shapes
Of course throughout we shall stay at remote and beautiful places and enjoy the regional cuisine and the local wines
Where We Stay
Le Prieure drsquoOrniols
For the first two nights and for our last night we are at the Le Prieure dOrniols just outside the village of Goudargues Situated besides a small castle Olivier and Grace will welcome us and provide delicious meals in the beautiful small stone chambre dhote
Short walks are available either down to the river or up the lane towards the cause Or a five minute drive will take us to the small town of Goudargues
Le Priure drsquoOrniols
Le Carmel Les Vans
On the third night we are at the Le Carmel near the centre of the small town of Les Vans The hotel is a former 19th Century Convent
The hotel has a small swimming pool and we shall be dining in the pretty restaurant
If you are in the mood for an early morning walk then the town is well worth a stroll around
Le Carmel
Le Cauvel
On our fourth and fifth nights we are at Le Cauvel which is a converted farm-house in the heart of the Cevennes not far from Barres-des-Cevennes The place is run by a pair of brothers and their wives and is guided by green and organic principles We also return here on our 9th night
The hotel sits in a setting of beautiful gardens and flowers with a terrace overlooking the valley You can visit the smallholding which produces the vegetables for the kitchen
We can access the Robert Louis Stevenson Trail directly from the farmstead and possibly visit the farm next door to visit the horses
le Cauvel
Auberge de la Cascade
For the sixth and seventh nights we are at the Auberge de la Cascade in St Chely-du-Tarn The hotel comprises almost the whole of this tiny village which sits besides the Tarn over a narrow bridge barred to most traffic
The early morning walk around the village will reveal a tiny chapel underneath the cliffs as well as a small church
The hotel has a small pool for our use and we shall dine in its lovely restaurant overlooking the square
Auberge de Cascade
Hotel Doussiare
For the eighth night we stay at the Hotel DoussiAtildeumlre in Le Rozier The hotel is next to the River Jonte which joins the Tarn and has terraces overlooking the river where we shall dine in the evening
A walk around the village in the evening is well worth the effort as it sits at the junction of two dramatic valleys
Hotel Belved
For the tenth night we stay at the Hotel Belved just south of Vallons Pont DArc in the Ardeche Gorge itself This comfortable place has a small pool for our use and we shall dine here probably on the terrace this evening
After dinner we can walk a short distance down the road to some riverside camp-sites where we may be able to find some entertainment or at least a refreshing beer or two
Hotel BelvedHotel Douiare
What We See
CAVES
The newly opened (2015) Chauvet caves are a replica of those cave discovered in 1994 near the Pont DrsquoArc The replica like that at Lascaux allows visitors to see the ancient cave paintings without damaging the originals b y exposing them to the atmosphere These spectacular paintings are some of the oldest in Europe and some are 40000 years old and feature animals not seen before in other caves
Aven drsquoOrgnac these caves with interesting geological features are in the Ardeche
LE PLUS BEAUX VILLAGE DE FRANCE
Sainte-Enimie on the banks of the Tarn river
Aiguegraveze overlooking the Ardeche river
Balazuc just above the defiles on the Ardeche river
La Roque-sur-Cegraveze on the banks of the Ceze
Montclus on the banks of the Ceze rive
Voguumleacute on the Ardeche river
Canoeing
All the canoes for the trips are provided by us and include paddles and a life-jacket The price is included in the trip
We always prefer open Canadian style canoes which are paddled in tandem - with two people aboard (usually) If you prefer to paddle solo then this can be arranged These canoes are especially suited for the calm water conditions we will be paddling on and are stable and safe They allow plenty of room for yourself and your stuff
From time to time we get clients who wish to paddle a Kayak We can arrange this for you if you prefer but we do stress that the
rivers we canoe do not really warrant the use of a kayak and we feel tandem paddling in a canoe is the way to go
Most of our clients have been canoeing before but we will insist on reviewing safety procedures at the beginning of paddling each day and revise paddling strokes for those who havent paddled for a while or have paddled on lakes rather than rivers for example
For those who have never paddled before their will be plenty of time for lessons as we go These rivers are ideal places for learning
If time and the inclination allows we can also practise other paddling procedures such as Eddy Turns Peeling Out and Ferrying
The clients will not be expected to lift or carry canoes at any time
Hiking
Although the main focus of the trips will be on the canoeing we will have plenty of time for short walks and longer hikes
Where possible we will walk to and from the river although this is not compulsory
In the appropriate season when early mornings are light we can opt to go for a pre-breakfast walk The length and timing of the walk will depend on a consensus reached between those that wish to walk how early we wish to rise and the time of year
Some of the trails we walk on form part of the network of long-distance paths that criss-cross France These are known as Grand Randonees (GR) and are way-marked by a red and white flash We may walk on the GR4 (which goes from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic) passing through the Ardeche We will walk on the GR70 (the famous Robert Louis Stevenson) which
crosses the Cevennes and also possibly the GR6 which traverse the Tarn
Wildlife
On the river we will see plenty of bird-life both on and around the water We will see Ducks and Herons We will also see Kingfishers Wagtails Dippers and Sandpipers We will see Swal lows and Swi f ts and Martins as well as various other birds crossing our path such as Woodpeckers Jays and other crows as well as the
almost invisible songbirds in the tree and hedges Of the raptors we will see the Common Buzzard and possibly an Osprey or a Kestrel
This area of France has a rich variety of Butterflies and we will see many familiar species (if you are from Britain) We will also see some rather more exotic species such as the two types of Swallowtail the Cleopatra the Banded Grayling and if we are lucky some rarer species such as the Large Blue or the Lesser Purple Emperor or Festoons
The river itself will provide m a n y e x a m p l e s o f t h e Dragonfly and Damselfly family The delicate damsels include the Western Demoiselle the White-Legged the Orange F e a t h e r l e g t h e B l u e Featherleg and various Bluets and Bluetails Of the dragons w e m a y s e e t h e S m a l l Pincertail the Yellow Clubtail
the Pronged Clubtail and the Common Clubtai l amongst others
We will also be able to see many flowers especially early in the season before the meadows are cut and these will include several orchids s u c h a s t h e P u r p l e t h e Pyramid the Bee and the Lizard Orchids
Of course we will also see many trees and shrubs along the river course and in the forests We can have some fun trying to identify them
Of the reptiles we will probably see lizards and hear frogs We sometimes see a Grass Snake swimming in the river (harmless) and sometimes a Viper (the only venomous snake which is small 18 inches long and not very poisonous)
The hardest things to see are the mammals We have seen Nutria and Otters on these rivers and weve also glimpsed Red Squirrels and Mink and Martens along the banks On the early morning walks weve encountered Foxes Roe Deer and Fallow Deer Badgers have only been seen at night in the headlights
The European Beaver swims in these rivers and has been seen just once by me on the lower Ardeche
Maps And Books
GUIDE BOOKS for the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
It is an unfortunate fact that the Ardeche and Tarn areas of France are not served particularly well by guide books A number of walking books and guides are available and no doubt the regions are mentioned in more general guide books to the whole of France If you do discover something then please let us know
Cevennes and Grand Causses (Crossbill Guides) by Dirk Hillbers
The Ceacutevennes National Park together with its twin the Parc Naturel des Grands Causses are among the richest natural areas in France Against a stunning background of steep cliffs extensive forests and open steppe-like plateaux the visitor can discover an exceptional wealth of flora and fauna The hundreds of kilometres of trails and tracks make it easy to explore the area with its wealth of orchids and other wildflowers its superb range of birds and butterflies The traditional medieval villages amidst the impressive mountainous country provide a relaxed starting point for exploration In other words the Ceacutevennes has everything a naturalist could wish for This nature guide is part of the renowned Crossbill Guides series for nature enthusiasts The Crossbill Guides combine interesting and insightful accounts with up-to-date and practical tourist information and observation tips Detailed descriptions of hiking trails and car routes are conveniently linked to information on everything you want to know about the what why and wherefores of the Ceacutevennes and Grands Causses splendid nature
HISTORY
The Discovery of France A Historical Geography from the Revolution to the First World War by Graham Robb
Illuminating engrossing and full of surprises The Discovery of France is a literary exploration of a country few will recognise from maps and migration to magic language and landscape itrsquos a book that reveals the real past of France to tell the whole story and history of this remarkable nation rsquoWith gloriously apposite facts and an abundance of quirky anecdotes and thumbnail sketches of people places and customs Robb on brilliant form takes us on a stunning journey through the historical landscape of Francersquo Independent lsquoCertain books strain the patience of those close to you How many times can you demand Look at this Can you imagine Did you know that Without actually handing over the volume This is such a bookrsquo Mail on Sunday rsquoAn extraordinary journey of discovery that will delight even the most indolent armchair travellerrsquo Daily Telegraph
A Concise History of France by Roger Price
This book provides a clear and well-informed guide to French history from the emergence of a strong state in the Ile-de-France in the early middle ages to the trente glorieuses following the Second World War and the Mitterrand presidency As such it provides the most up-to-date and comprehensive study of French history available Among the books central themes are the relationship between state and society the impact of war and such crucial questions as who possessed political power how this power was used in whose interests and with what consequences Roger Price examines the role of leading figures including Philip Augustus Henri IV Louis XIV the two Napoleans Clemenceau and De Gaulle as well as the lives of ordinary people A rich entertaining guide for the student and general reader
A Travellerrsquos History of France by Robert Cole
The Travellers History series is designed for the traveller who feels they need more historical background information on the country in which they are staying than can be found in an ordinary guidebook For those who want to look deeper and discover more about the roots of France its history and culture in an enjoyable read this is the book to choose Designed for easy reference it is the key to unlocking the secrets of France If you want to find about the mysterious Merovingian kings or the results of the last election if you want to know when Chartres cathedral was built or how Napoleon rose to power or when and where Princess Diana died - youll find it all in A Travellers History of France Undoubtedly the best way to prepare for a trip to France is to bone up on some history The Travellers History of France by Robert Cole is concise and gives the essential facts in a very readable form The Independent This little book is a very good idea indeed a running commentary on the complexities triumphs and tragedies of French history from the Lascaux Caves to the Pompidou centre A must for tourists who want to know what happened where The Birmingham Post A brilliant idea from Gloucestershire publishers Windrush a series of books which give a potted history of European countries Ostensibly aimed at holidaymakers the first on France is an excellent introduction for anyone who wants an idiots guide to a history that has so often intertwined with our own The Oxford Times
FICTION
Travels with a Donkey in the Ceacutevennes and the Amateur Emigrant by Robert Louis Stevenson
In 1878 Robert Louis Srtevenson was suffereing from poor health struggling to survive on the income derived from his writings and tormented by his infatuation with Fanny Osbourne a married American woman His response was to embark on a journey through the Cevennes with a donkey Modestine and a notebook which he later transformed into lsquoTravels with a Donkeyrsquo Just a few months after publication Stevenson was off again - this time crossing the Atlantic and the breadth of America in the hope of being re-united with Fanny an experince he recored in the lsquoThe Amateur Emigrantrsquo Both pieces are classics of travel writing which reveal as much about Stevensonrsquos character as the landscape he travels through
MAPS
Many types of maps are available for this region but I recommend those produced by the Institute Geographique Nationale (IGN)
They have two series of walking maps which are suitable for our canoeing needs
The Top25 series is at a scale of 4cm to the km and the Top100 series is at a scale of 1cm to the km
For the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
TOP25 IGN 2640OT Gorges du Tarn et de la JonteCausse MejeanPn des Cevennes (GPS)
TOP100 IGN 162 RodezMillau
TOP25 IGN 2939OT Gorges de lArdecheBourg-Saint-AndeolVallon-Pont-DArc (Gps)
This map doesnrsquot cover the Gardon Ceze Chassezac or the upper Ardeche just the Gorge of the Ardeche
TOP100 IGN 163 AvignonNimes
This map covers all the rivers on the trip
These maps are available to buy online at IGN and at the usual online book shops
I would recommend the TOP100 maps We have all these maps with us on the trips
G R E E N R I V E R
Green River CanoesWe provide Guided Inn-to-Inn Canoeing Holidays to the south of France in the Perigord Lot Ardeche and Tarn regions
We provide hand-crafted vacations to combine a pleasant activity canoeing with an insight into the regional history and natural history whilst enjoying the local foods and wines
All our holidays comprise of mostly canoeing with some (often optional) hiking The itinerary is planned but is flexible enough to be changed on the day if required
All our holidays are guided Our guests will be accompanied on the river and trail by an experienced guide who knows the area and rivers well Our other guide will accompany us in the background by driving our vehicle between lodgings When necessary this vehicle will be transferring our luggage meeting with us for lunch and generally being available as and when needed
Day to Day Schedule
Day 1 Arrival first meeting and first canoe
You will be met at the TGV station at Avignon sometime around midday
Alternative arrangements can be made for arrivals such as at regional airports by prior arrangement
The drive to Collias takes about 40 minutes We will stop here for a picnic lunch get to know each other and go over the trip together We will then do a 2 hour canoe on the Gardon River which will finish as we pass underneath the famous Pont du Gard a UNESCO Heritage Roman Aqueduct which is almost 2000 years old
We will then have a 50 minute drive to our accommodation at Le Prieure drsquoOrniols in the charming tiny hamlet of La Bastide just outside Goudargues On our arrival we will be met by our hosts Olivier and Grace
Day 2 A paddle on the Ceze
Today we will paddle the Ceze river from Montclus back to Goudargues
We will have time to visit the walled village of Montclus first before starting our paddle downstream The river passes by some beautiful cliffs as it meanders back towards the village which we will also have time to visit afterwards The village was once a famous spa town and retains some interesting small canals
If time allows we can visit the village of La Roque-sur-Ceze and the local Falls
We remain at the Le Prieure drsquoOrniols tonight
Day 3 Canoeing the Chassezac Gorge
We will canoe a stretch of the Chassezac River today starting at the Iron Bridge and going onto Chaulet a trip of about 3 hours The river meanders wildly through a very deep gorge with some beautiful beaches just ripe for a picnic lunch and some swimming
Late in the day we will take a hike along the rim of the gorge and look down on where we were previously
Tonight we will stay at the former convent at Le Carmel Les Vans just a very short drive away
Day 4 Hiking the Robert Louis Stevenson Trail
In the morning we will have an hours drive to Les Bleynard where we will start our hike on the GR70 (Robert Louis Stevenson Trail) over Mont Lozere to the Pont de Montvert about 12 miles The walk will offer us splendid views over this remote region of France called the Cevennes An alternative is to hike over the Signal de Ventalon and hike directly to our accommodation
Afterwards its a 45 drive to where we stay at a remote farmhouse in the Cevennes at Le Cauvel
Day 5 Another day of hiking on the Stevenson Trail
After breakfast we will walk out onto the GR70 and continue our way on the Stevenson Trail down to St Germain-de-Calberte If we have the energy then our afternoon hike will take us along the Corniche de Cevennes which looks down the Gorge of the Tarnon River Both of these hikes offer exceptional views over the Cevennes mountains and we will pass ancient Sepulcres Dolmens and Standing Stones too
Tonight we will stay at Le Cauvel again
Day 6 The first day in the Tarn Gorge
After a 45 minute drive to Montbrun we will begin our first day on the beautiful Tarn river We will paddle all the way to St Chely-du-Tarn making sure that we stop for a look around the lovely village of St Enimie This is an absolutely stunning river to paddle The river is crystal clear and runs in a fabulously deep gorge in remote country-side
Tonight we will stay in the Auberge de la Cascade in the outstandingly beautiful village of St Chely-du-Tarn We will be able to walk up from the river beach to our hotel
Day 7 The Second Day on the Tarn
After a leisurely breakfast we stroll down to the beach underneath the bridge in the village and prepare for another beautiful days canoeing on the Tarn This section is just as beautiful as yesterday and we will pass some lovely spots including the village of Hauterives an isolated village only reachable by river and the delightful village of La Malene The river squeezes through the famous Detroits (narrows) on our way to Les Baumes Basse where we finish for the day
We are again staying at the Auberge de la Cascade
Day 8 The Final Day on the Tarn
A short drive will take us down-river to where we will begin our final day on the Tarn We will canoe from Les Vignes to Le Rozier along a section of river which is just as dramatic visually as the first two days but a little more bumpy We will have to concentrate as we ride the Class 2 and 3 rapids as we admire the gorge scenery around us
Once again we will be able to walk to our hotel which is the Doussier
Day 9 A Hike on the Chaos de Montpelier
A 35 minute drive we see us arrive at the small village of La Roque St Marguerite where we will begin our hike up to the Chaos de Montpelier a truly strange outcrop of rocks which have been eroded into exotic shapes In the USA these shapes are known as Hoodoos We will spend several hours wandering numerous trails around this area and experience the fabulous views over the plateau and the gorge
A rather longer drive of about 90 minutes will take us across the bleak plateau landscape known as the Cause Noir back to the Cevennes and the farmhouse at Le Cauvel
Day 10 First Day on the Ardeche River
After a 2 hour drive to Balazuc on the section of the Ardeche called the Defiles we will prepare ourselves for our introduction to the exciting Ardeche river On this first part we will canoe through some small Class 2 rapids and riffles and pass some exotic cliffs and pretty villages Like yesterday we will have to be on our toes as we negotiate some boulder fields in-between some calmer stretches of the river
If we are not sated by that section then after a short drive downstream to Vallon Pont DArc we can paddle a short but interesting section of the river which takes us to a beach near our hotel This section begins at the head of the famous Gorge de LArdeche and takes us canoeing through the legendary Pont DArc a natural stone arch through which the river flows This
section will give us an idea for the spills and thrills to come on our next day on the Ardeche
A short walk (or drive) will take us to our lodgings at the Hotel Belved which is also in the Gorge
Day 11 Canoeing the Gorge LArdeche
Today is the big day when we canoe through the fabulous Gorge LArdeche The Gorge is deep the river is remote and the rapids are exciting Between sections of the river where you can admire the fantastic scenery are Class 2 and Class 3 rapids to grab your attention Most of them are short and sweet and several of them can easily be run several times if you are in the mood
This really is a wonderful stretch of river and we will take all day to enjoy it with a sumptuous beach picnic half-way through the long day
When we are finished we will go for a beer or an ice-cream in the beautiful village of Aigueze which overlooks the final stretch of our days paddling
It is then a short drive to re-visit Olivier and Grace at Le Prieure drsquoOrniols where it all began
Day 12 Departure and Farewells
When we are ready we will drive for an hour to the TGV station at Avignon for our return to Paris and beyond
If time allows if say the train departure is after midday then we can visit the old monastery at Chartreuse de Valbonne or the waterfalls at La Roque-sur-Ceze Or indeed we could spend part of the day in Avignon itself
8 Day Ardeche Trip
This trip removes 4 days from the 12 Day trip described in the previous chapter - Days 6 7 8 and 9 Otherwise the itinerary is the same The whole trip is described fully on our website with a complete schedule map details of hotels and our current prices and schedules You can see many photographs there too
On this trip we canoe on the Gardon the Ceze the Chassezac and the Ardeche rivers in the Ardeche region of south-east France We shall explore the Gorges and Mountains of both the Ardeche and the Cevennes which are still relatively remote even to this day
The rivers in the Ardeche flow eastwards towards the Rhone river which itself then flows south to the Mediterranean The Chassezac is a tributary of the Ardeche Each of these rivers in the Ardeche flow through deep and dramatic gorges in limestone country
The Gardon Ceze and Chassezac are calm rivers with easy paddling through beautiful scenery The Ardeche provides a little more excitement with Class 2 and 3 rapids These rapids are short however and the river provides plenty of easy water between them
In-between the canoeing days we shall hike on the parts of the long-distance trail known as the GR70 - the famous Robert Louis Stevenson Trail The author walked this way more than 100 years ago to see for himself how the Hugenots (Protestants) survived in a largely Catholic country The walk is renowned for the difficulty he experienced in dealing with his donkey Modestine
Of course throughout we shall stay at remote and beautiful places and enjoy the regional cuisine and the local wines
6 Day Tarn Trip
This trip concentrates on the Tarn days on 12 Day trip described in the previous chapter - Days 6 7 8 and 9 With an arrival day and a departure day The whole trip is described fully on our website with a complete schedule map details of hotels and our current prices and schedules You can see many photographs there too
On this trip we plan to arrive and depart via the TGV Railway Station at Montpelier
When we are on the Tarn we canoe in a river which flows westwards towards the Atlantic The Tarn flows through a dramatic limestone gorge and is famously known for its beautifully clear and green waters The first two days on this river provide easy paddling whilst the third day provides more excitement with some rapids to contend with
We shall also walk through the peculiar region called the Chaos of Montpelier which has been eroded into many curious geological shapes
Of course throughout we shall stay at remote and beautiful places and enjoy the regional cuisine and the local wines
Where We Stay
Le Prieure drsquoOrniols
For the first two nights and for our last night we are at the Le Prieure dOrniols just outside the village of Goudargues Situated besides a small castle Olivier and Grace will welcome us and provide delicious meals in the beautiful small stone chambre dhote
Short walks are available either down to the river or up the lane towards the cause Or a five minute drive will take us to the small town of Goudargues
Le Priure drsquoOrniols
Le Carmel Les Vans
On the third night we are at the Le Carmel near the centre of the small town of Les Vans The hotel is a former 19th Century Convent
The hotel has a small swimming pool and we shall be dining in the pretty restaurant
If you are in the mood for an early morning walk then the town is well worth a stroll around
Le Carmel
Le Cauvel
On our fourth and fifth nights we are at Le Cauvel which is a converted farm-house in the heart of the Cevennes not far from Barres-des-Cevennes The place is run by a pair of brothers and their wives and is guided by green and organic principles We also return here on our 9th night
The hotel sits in a setting of beautiful gardens and flowers with a terrace overlooking the valley You can visit the smallholding which produces the vegetables for the kitchen
We can access the Robert Louis Stevenson Trail directly from the farmstead and possibly visit the farm next door to visit the horses
le Cauvel
Auberge de la Cascade
For the sixth and seventh nights we are at the Auberge de la Cascade in St Chely-du-Tarn The hotel comprises almost the whole of this tiny village which sits besides the Tarn over a narrow bridge barred to most traffic
The early morning walk around the village will reveal a tiny chapel underneath the cliffs as well as a small church
The hotel has a small pool for our use and we shall dine in its lovely restaurant overlooking the square
Auberge de Cascade
Hotel Doussiare
For the eighth night we stay at the Hotel DoussiAtildeumlre in Le Rozier The hotel is next to the River Jonte which joins the Tarn and has terraces overlooking the river where we shall dine in the evening
A walk around the village in the evening is well worth the effort as it sits at the junction of two dramatic valleys
Hotel Belved
For the tenth night we stay at the Hotel Belved just south of Vallons Pont DArc in the Ardeche Gorge itself This comfortable place has a small pool for our use and we shall dine here probably on the terrace this evening
After dinner we can walk a short distance down the road to some riverside camp-sites where we may be able to find some entertainment or at least a refreshing beer or two
Hotel BelvedHotel Douiare
What We See
CAVES
The newly opened (2015) Chauvet caves are a replica of those cave discovered in 1994 near the Pont DrsquoArc The replica like that at Lascaux allows visitors to see the ancient cave paintings without damaging the originals b y exposing them to the atmosphere These spectacular paintings are some of the oldest in Europe and some are 40000 years old and feature animals not seen before in other caves
Aven drsquoOrgnac these caves with interesting geological features are in the Ardeche
LE PLUS BEAUX VILLAGE DE FRANCE
Sainte-Enimie on the banks of the Tarn river
Aiguegraveze overlooking the Ardeche river
Balazuc just above the defiles on the Ardeche river
La Roque-sur-Cegraveze on the banks of the Ceze
Montclus on the banks of the Ceze rive
Voguumleacute on the Ardeche river
Canoeing
All the canoes for the trips are provided by us and include paddles and a life-jacket The price is included in the trip
We always prefer open Canadian style canoes which are paddled in tandem - with two people aboard (usually) If you prefer to paddle solo then this can be arranged These canoes are especially suited for the calm water conditions we will be paddling on and are stable and safe They allow plenty of room for yourself and your stuff
From time to time we get clients who wish to paddle a Kayak We can arrange this for you if you prefer but we do stress that the
rivers we canoe do not really warrant the use of a kayak and we feel tandem paddling in a canoe is the way to go
Most of our clients have been canoeing before but we will insist on reviewing safety procedures at the beginning of paddling each day and revise paddling strokes for those who havent paddled for a while or have paddled on lakes rather than rivers for example
For those who have never paddled before their will be plenty of time for lessons as we go These rivers are ideal places for learning
If time and the inclination allows we can also practise other paddling procedures such as Eddy Turns Peeling Out and Ferrying
The clients will not be expected to lift or carry canoes at any time
Hiking
Although the main focus of the trips will be on the canoeing we will have plenty of time for short walks and longer hikes
Where possible we will walk to and from the river although this is not compulsory
In the appropriate season when early mornings are light we can opt to go for a pre-breakfast walk The length and timing of the walk will depend on a consensus reached between those that wish to walk how early we wish to rise and the time of year
Some of the trails we walk on form part of the network of long-distance paths that criss-cross France These are known as Grand Randonees (GR) and are way-marked by a red and white flash We may walk on the GR4 (which goes from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic) passing through the Ardeche We will walk on the GR70 (the famous Robert Louis Stevenson) which
crosses the Cevennes and also possibly the GR6 which traverse the Tarn
Wildlife
On the river we will see plenty of bird-life both on and around the water We will see Ducks and Herons We will also see Kingfishers Wagtails Dippers and Sandpipers We will see Swal lows and Swi f ts and Martins as well as various other birds crossing our path such as Woodpeckers Jays and other crows as well as the
almost invisible songbirds in the tree and hedges Of the raptors we will see the Common Buzzard and possibly an Osprey or a Kestrel
This area of France has a rich variety of Butterflies and we will see many familiar species (if you are from Britain) We will also see some rather more exotic species such as the two types of Swallowtail the Cleopatra the Banded Grayling and if we are lucky some rarer species such as the Large Blue or the Lesser Purple Emperor or Festoons
The river itself will provide m a n y e x a m p l e s o f t h e Dragonfly and Damselfly family The delicate damsels include the Western Demoiselle the White-Legged the Orange F e a t h e r l e g t h e B l u e Featherleg and various Bluets and Bluetails Of the dragons w e m a y s e e t h e S m a l l Pincertail the Yellow Clubtail
the Pronged Clubtail and the Common Clubtai l amongst others
We will also be able to see many flowers especially early in the season before the meadows are cut and these will include several orchids s u c h a s t h e P u r p l e t h e Pyramid the Bee and the Lizard Orchids
Of course we will also see many trees and shrubs along the river course and in the forests We can have some fun trying to identify them
Of the reptiles we will probably see lizards and hear frogs We sometimes see a Grass Snake swimming in the river (harmless) and sometimes a Viper (the only venomous snake which is small 18 inches long and not very poisonous)
The hardest things to see are the mammals We have seen Nutria and Otters on these rivers and weve also glimpsed Red Squirrels and Mink and Martens along the banks On the early morning walks weve encountered Foxes Roe Deer and Fallow Deer Badgers have only been seen at night in the headlights
The European Beaver swims in these rivers and has been seen just once by me on the lower Ardeche
Maps And Books
GUIDE BOOKS for the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
It is an unfortunate fact that the Ardeche and Tarn areas of France are not served particularly well by guide books A number of walking books and guides are available and no doubt the regions are mentioned in more general guide books to the whole of France If you do discover something then please let us know
Cevennes and Grand Causses (Crossbill Guides) by Dirk Hillbers
The Ceacutevennes National Park together with its twin the Parc Naturel des Grands Causses are among the richest natural areas in France Against a stunning background of steep cliffs extensive forests and open steppe-like plateaux the visitor can discover an exceptional wealth of flora and fauna The hundreds of kilometres of trails and tracks make it easy to explore the area with its wealth of orchids and other wildflowers its superb range of birds and butterflies The traditional medieval villages amidst the impressive mountainous country provide a relaxed starting point for exploration In other words the Ceacutevennes has everything a naturalist could wish for This nature guide is part of the renowned Crossbill Guides series for nature enthusiasts The Crossbill Guides combine interesting and insightful accounts with up-to-date and practical tourist information and observation tips Detailed descriptions of hiking trails and car routes are conveniently linked to information on everything you want to know about the what why and wherefores of the Ceacutevennes and Grands Causses splendid nature
HISTORY
The Discovery of France A Historical Geography from the Revolution to the First World War by Graham Robb
Illuminating engrossing and full of surprises The Discovery of France is a literary exploration of a country few will recognise from maps and migration to magic language and landscape itrsquos a book that reveals the real past of France to tell the whole story and history of this remarkable nation rsquoWith gloriously apposite facts and an abundance of quirky anecdotes and thumbnail sketches of people places and customs Robb on brilliant form takes us on a stunning journey through the historical landscape of Francersquo Independent lsquoCertain books strain the patience of those close to you How many times can you demand Look at this Can you imagine Did you know that Without actually handing over the volume This is such a bookrsquo Mail on Sunday rsquoAn extraordinary journey of discovery that will delight even the most indolent armchair travellerrsquo Daily Telegraph
A Concise History of France by Roger Price
This book provides a clear and well-informed guide to French history from the emergence of a strong state in the Ile-de-France in the early middle ages to the trente glorieuses following the Second World War and the Mitterrand presidency As such it provides the most up-to-date and comprehensive study of French history available Among the books central themes are the relationship between state and society the impact of war and such crucial questions as who possessed political power how this power was used in whose interests and with what consequences Roger Price examines the role of leading figures including Philip Augustus Henri IV Louis XIV the two Napoleans Clemenceau and De Gaulle as well as the lives of ordinary people A rich entertaining guide for the student and general reader
A Travellerrsquos History of France by Robert Cole
The Travellers History series is designed for the traveller who feels they need more historical background information on the country in which they are staying than can be found in an ordinary guidebook For those who want to look deeper and discover more about the roots of France its history and culture in an enjoyable read this is the book to choose Designed for easy reference it is the key to unlocking the secrets of France If you want to find about the mysterious Merovingian kings or the results of the last election if you want to know when Chartres cathedral was built or how Napoleon rose to power or when and where Princess Diana died - youll find it all in A Travellers History of France Undoubtedly the best way to prepare for a trip to France is to bone up on some history The Travellers History of France by Robert Cole is concise and gives the essential facts in a very readable form The Independent This little book is a very good idea indeed a running commentary on the complexities triumphs and tragedies of French history from the Lascaux Caves to the Pompidou centre A must for tourists who want to know what happened where The Birmingham Post A brilliant idea from Gloucestershire publishers Windrush a series of books which give a potted history of European countries Ostensibly aimed at holidaymakers the first on France is an excellent introduction for anyone who wants an idiots guide to a history that has so often intertwined with our own The Oxford Times
FICTION
Travels with a Donkey in the Ceacutevennes and the Amateur Emigrant by Robert Louis Stevenson
In 1878 Robert Louis Srtevenson was suffereing from poor health struggling to survive on the income derived from his writings and tormented by his infatuation with Fanny Osbourne a married American woman His response was to embark on a journey through the Cevennes with a donkey Modestine and a notebook which he later transformed into lsquoTravels with a Donkeyrsquo Just a few months after publication Stevenson was off again - this time crossing the Atlantic and the breadth of America in the hope of being re-united with Fanny an experince he recored in the lsquoThe Amateur Emigrantrsquo Both pieces are classics of travel writing which reveal as much about Stevensonrsquos character as the landscape he travels through
MAPS
Many types of maps are available for this region but I recommend those produced by the Institute Geographique Nationale (IGN)
They have two series of walking maps which are suitable for our canoeing needs
The Top25 series is at a scale of 4cm to the km and the Top100 series is at a scale of 1cm to the km
For the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
TOP25 IGN 2640OT Gorges du Tarn et de la JonteCausse MejeanPn des Cevennes (GPS)
TOP100 IGN 162 RodezMillau
TOP25 IGN 2939OT Gorges de lArdecheBourg-Saint-AndeolVallon-Pont-DArc (Gps)
This map doesnrsquot cover the Gardon Ceze Chassezac or the upper Ardeche just the Gorge of the Ardeche
TOP100 IGN 163 AvignonNimes
This map covers all the rivers on the trip
These maps are available to buy online at IGN and at the usual online book shops
I would recommend the TOP100 maps We have all these maps with us on the trips
G R E E N R I V E R
Green River CanoesWe provide Guided Inn-to-Inn Canoeing Holidays to the south of France in the Perigord Lot Ardeche and Tarn regions
We provide hand-crafted vacations to combine a pleasant activity canoeing with an insight into the regional history and natural history whilst enjoying the local foods and wines
All our holidays comprise of mostly canoeing with some (often optional) hiking The itinerary is planned but is flexible enough to be changed on the day if required
All our holidays are guided Our guests will be accompanied on the river and trail by an experienced guide who knows the area and rivers well Our other guide will accompany us in the background by driving our vehicle between lodgings When necessary this vehicle will be transferring our luggage meeting with us for lunch and generally being available as and when needed
Day 2 A paddle on the Ceze
Today we will paddle the Ceze river from Montclus back to Goudargues
We will have time to visit the walled village of Montclus first before starting our paddle downstream The river passes by some beautiful cliffs as it meanders back towards the village which we will also have time to visit afterwards The village was once a famous spa town and retains some interesting small canals
If time allows we can visit the village of La Roque-sur-Ceze and the local Falls
We remain at the Le Prieure drsquoOrniols tonight
Day 3 Canoeing the Chassezac Gorge
We will canoe a stretch of the Chassezac River today starting at the Iron Bridge and going onto Chaulet a trip of about 3 hours The river meanders wildly through a very deep gorge with some beautiful beaches just ripe for a picnic lunch and some swimming
Late in the day we will take a hike along the rim of the gorge and look down on where we were previously
Tonight we will stay at the former convent at Le Carmel Les Vans just a very short drive away
Day 4 Hiking the Robert Louis Stevenson Trail
In the morning we will have an hours drive to Les Bleynard where we will start our hike on the GR70 (Robert Louis Stevenson Trail) over Mont Lozere to the Pont de Montvert about 12 miles The walk will offer us splendid views over this remote region of France called the Cevennes An alternative is to hike over the Signal de Ventalon and hike directly to our accommodation
Afterwards its a 45 drive to where we stay at a remote farmhouse in the Cevennes at Le Cauvel
Day 5 Another day of hiking on the Stevenson Trail
After breakfast we will walk out onto the GR70 and continue our way on the Stevenson Trail down to St Germain-de-Calberte If we have the energy then our afternoon hike will take us along the Corniche de Cevennes which looks down the Gorge of the Tarnon River Both of these hikes offer exceptional views over the Cevennes mountains and we will pass ancient Sepulcres Dolmens and Standing Stones too
Tonight we will stay at Le Cauvel again
Day 6 The first day in the Tarn Gorge
After a 45 minute drive to Montbrun we will begin our first day on the beautiful Tarn river We will paddle all the way to St Chely-du-Tarn making sure that we stop for a look around the lovely village of St Enimie This is an absolutely stunning river to paddle The river is crystal clear and runs in a fabulously deep gorge in remote country-side
Tonight we will stay in the Auberge de la Cascade in the outstandingly beautiful village of St Chely-du-Tarn We will be able to walk up from the river beach to our hotel
Day 7 The Second Day on the Tarn
After a leisurely breakfast we stroll down to the beach underneath the bridge in the village and prepare for another beautiful days canoeing on the Tarn This section is just as beautiful as yesterday and we will pass some lovely spots including the village of Hauterives an isolated village only reachable by river and the delightful village of La Malene The river squeezes through the famous Detroits (narrows) on our way to Les Baumes Basse where we finish for the day
We are again staying at the Auberge de la Cascade
Day 8 The Final Day on the Tarn
A short drive will take us down-river to where we will begin our final day on the Tarn We will canoe from Les Vignes to Le Rozier along a section of river which is just as dramatic visually as the first two days but a little more bumpy We will have to concentrate as we ride the Class 2 and 3 rapids as we admire the gorge scenery around us
Once again we will be able to walk to our hotel which is the Doussier
Day 9 A Hike on the Chaos de Montpelier
A 35 minute drive we see us arrive at the small village of La Roque St Marguerite where we will begin our hike up to the Chaos de Montpelier a truly strange outcrop of rocks which have been eroded into exotic shapes In the USA these shapes are known as Hoodoos We will spend several hours wandering numerous trails around this area and experience the fabulous views over the plateau and the gorge
A rather longer drive of about 90 minutes will take us across the bleak plateau landscape known as the Cause Noir back to the Cevennes and the farmhouse at Le Cauvel
Day 10 First Day on the Ardeche River
After a 2 hour drive to Balazuc on the section of the Ardeche called the Defiles we will prepare ourselves for our introduction to the exciting Ardeche river On this first part we will canoe through some small Class 2 rapids and riffles and pass some exotic cliffs and pretty villages Like yesterday we will have to be on our toes as we negotiate some boulder fields in-between some calmer stretches of the river
If we are not sated by that section then after a short drive downstream to Vallon Pont DArc we can paddle a short but interesting section of the river which takes us to a beach near our hotel This section begins at the head of the famous Gorge de LArdeche and takes us canoeing through the legendary Pont DArc a natural stone arch through which the river flows This
section will give us an idea for the spills and thrills to come on our next day on the Ardeche
A short walk (or drive) will take us to our lodgings at the Hotel Belved which is also in the Gorge
Day 11 Canoeing the Gorge LArdeche
Today is the big day when we canoe through the fabulous Gorge LArdeche The Gorge is deep the river is remote and the rapids are exciting Between sections of the river where you can admire the fantastic scenery are Class 2 and Class 3 rapids to grab your attention Most of them are short and sweet and several of them can easily be run several times if you are in the mood
This really is a wonderful stretch of river and we will take all day to enjoy it with a sumptuous beach picnic half-way through the long day
When we are finished we will go for a beer or an ice-cream in the beautiful village of Aigueze which overlooks the final stretch of our days paddling
It is then a short drive to re-visit Olivier and Grace at Le Prieure drsquoOrniols where it all began
Day 12 Departure and Farewells
When we are ready we will drive for an hour to the TGV station at Avignon for our return to Paris and beyond
If time allows if say the train departure is after midday then we can visit the old monastery at Chartreuse de Valbonne or the waterfalls at La Roque-sur-Ceze Or indeed we could spend part of the day in Avignon itself
8 Day Ardeche Trip
This trip removes 4 days from the 12 Day trip described in the previous chapter - Days 6 7 8 and 9 Otherwise the itinerary is the same The whole trip is described fully on our website with a complete schedule map details of hotels and our current prices and schedules You can see many photographs there too
On this trip we canoe on the Gardon the Ceze the Chassezac and the Ardeche rivers in the Ardeche region of south-east France We shall explore the Gorges and Mountains of both the Ardeche and the Cevennes which are still relatively remote even to this day
The rivers in the Ardeche flow eastwards towards the Rhone river which itself then flows south to the Mediterranean The Chassezac is a tributary of the Ardeche Each of these rivers in the Ardeche flow through deep and dramatic gorges in limestone country
The Gardon Ceze and Chassezac are calm rivers with easy paddling through beautiful scenery The Ardeche provides a little more excitement with Class 2 and 3 rapids These rapids are short however and the river provides plenty of easy water between them
In-between the canoeing days we shall hike on the parts of the long-distance trail known as the GR70 - the famous Robert Louis Stevenson Trail The author walked this way more than 100 years ago to see for himself how the Hugenots (Protestants) survived in a largely Catholic country The walk is renowned for the difficulty he experienced in dealing with his donkey Modestine
Of course throughout we shall stay at remote and beautiful places and enjoy the regional cuisine and the local wines
6 Day Tarn Trip
This trip concentrates on the Tarn days on 12 Day trip described in the previous chapter - Days 6 7 8 and 9 With an arrival day and a departure day The whole trip is described fully on our website with a complete schedule map details of hotels and our current prices and schedules You can see many photographs there too
On this trip we plan to arrive and depart via the TGV Railway Station at Montpelier
When we are on the Tarn we canoe in a river which flows westwards towards the Atlantic The Tarn flows through a dramatic limestone gorge and is famously known for its beautifully clear and green waters The first two days on this river provide easy paddling whilst the third day provides more excitement with some rapids to contend with
We shall also walk through the peculiar region called the Chaos of Montpelier which has been eroded into many curious geological shapes
Of course throughout we shall stay at remote and beautiful places and enjoy the regional cuisine and the local wines
Where We Stay
Le Prieure drsquoOrniols
For the first two nights and for our last night we are at the Le Prieure dOrniols just outside the village of Goudargues Situated besides a small castle Olivier and Grace will welcome us and provide delicious meals in the beautiful small stone chambre dhote
Short walks are available either down to the river or up the lane towards the cause Or a five minute drive will take us to the small town of Goudargues
Le Priure drsquoOrniols
Le Carmel Les Vans
On the third night we are at the Le Carmel near the centre of the small town of Les Vans The hotel is a former 19th Century Convent
The hotel has a small swimming pool and we shall be dining in the pretty restaurant
If you are in the mood for an early morning walk then the town is well worth a stroll around
Le Carmel
Le Cauvel
On our fourth and fifth nights we are at Le Cauvel which is a converted farm-house in the heart of the Cevennes not far from Barres-des-Cevennes The place is run by a pair of brothers and their wives and is guided by green and organic principles We also return here on our 9th night
The hotel sits in a setting of beautiful gardens and flowers with a terrace overlooking the valley You can visit the smallholding which produces the vegetables for the kitchen
We can access the Robert Louis Stevenson Trail directly from the farmstead and possibly visit the farm next door to visit the horses
le Cauvel
Auberge de la Cascade
For the sixth and seventh nights we are at the Auberge de la Cascade in St Chely-du-Tarn The hotel comprises almost the whole of this tiny village which sits besides the Tarn over a narrow bridge barred to most traffic
The early morning walk around the village will reveal a tiny chapel underneath the cliffs as well as a small church
The hotel has a small pool for our use and we shall dine in its lovely restaurant overlooking the square
Auberge de Cascade
Hotel Doussiare
For the eighth night we stay at the Hotel DoussiAtildeumlre in Le Rozier The hotel is next to the River Jonte which joins the Tarn and has terraces overlooking the river where we shall dine in the evening
A walk around the village in the evening is well worth the effort as it sits at the junction of two dramatic valleys
Hotel Belved
For the tenth night we stay at the Hotel Belved just south of Vallons Pont DArc in the Ardeche Gorge itself This comfortable place has a small pool for our use and we shall dine here probably on the terrace this evening
After dinner we can walk a short distance down the road to some riverside camp-sites where we may be able to find some entertainment or at least a refreshing beer or two
Hotel BelvedHotel Douiare
What We See
CAVES
The newly opened (2015) Chauvet caves are a replica of those cave discovered in 1994 near the Pont DrsquoArc The replica like that at Lascaux allows visitors to see the ancient cave paintings without damaging the originals b y exposing them to the atmosphere These spectacular paintings are some of the oldest in Europe and some are 40000 years old and feature animals not seen before in other caves
Aven drsquoOrgnac these caves with interesting geological features are in the Ardeche
LE PLUS BEAUX VILLAGE DE FRANCE
Sainte-Enimie on the banks of the Tarn river
Aiguegraveze overlooking the Ardeche river
Balazuc just above the defiles on the Ardeche river
La Roque-sur-Cegraveze on the banks of the Ceze
Montclus on the banks of the Ceze rive
Voguumleacute on the Ardeche river
Canoeing
All the canoes for the trips are provided by us and include paddles and a life-jacket The price is included in the trip
We always prefer open Canadian style canoes which are paddled in tandem - with two people aboard (usually) If you prefer to paddle solo then this can be arranged These canoes are especially suited for the calm water conditions we will be paddling on and are stable and safe They allow plenty of room for yourself and your stuff
From time to time we get clients who wish to paddle a Kayak We can arrange this for you if you prefer but we do stress that the
rivers we canoe do not really warrant the use of a kayak and we feel tandem paddling in a canoe is the way to go
Most of our clients have been canoeing before but we will insist on reviewing safety procedures at the beginning of paddling each day and revise paddling strokes for those who havent paddled for a while or have paddled on lakes rather than rivers for example
For those who have never paddled before their will be plenty of time for lessons as we go These rivers are ideal places for learning
If time and the inclination allows we can also practise other paddling procedures such as Eddy Turns Peeling Out and Ferrying
The clients will not be expected to lift or carry canoes at any time
Hiking
Although the main focus of the trips will be on the canoeing we will have plenty of time for short walks and longer hikes
Where possible we will walk to and from the river although this is not compulsory
In the appropriate season when early mornings are light we can opt to go for a pre-breakfast walk The length and timing of the walk will depend on a consensus reached between those that wish to walk how early we wish to rise and the time of year
Some of the trails we walk on form part of the network of long-distance paths that criss-cross France These are known as Grand Randonees (GR) and are way-marked by a red and white flash We may walk on the GR4 (which goes from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic) passing through the Ardeche We will walk on the GR70 (the famous Robert Louis Stevenson) which
crosses the Cevennes and also possibly the GR6 which traverse the Tarn
Wildlife
On the river we will see plenty of bird-life both on and around the water We will see Ducks and Herons We will also see Kingfishers Wagtails Dippers and Sandpipers We will see Swal lows and Swi f ts and Martins as well as various other birds crossing our path such as Woodpeckers Jays and other crows as well as the
almost invisible songbirds in the tree and hedges Of the raptors we will see the Common Buzzard and possibly an Osprey or a Kestrel
This area of France has a rich variety of Butterflies and we will see many familiar species (if you are from Britain) We will also see some rather more exotic species such as the two types of Swallowtail the Cleopatra the Banded Grayling and if we are lucky some rarer species such as the Large Blue or the Lesser Purple Emperor or Festoons
The river itself will provide m a n y e x a m p l e s o f t h e Dragonfly and Damselfly family The delicate damsels include the Western Demoiselle the White-Legged the Orange F e a t h e r l e g t h e B l u e Featherleg and various Bluets and Bluetails Of the dragons w e m a y s e e t h e S m a l l Pincertail the Yellow Clubtail
the Pronged Clubtail and the Common Clubtai l amongst others
We will also be able to see many flowers especially early in the season before the meadows are cut and these will include several orchids s u c h a s t h e P u r p l e t h e Pyramid the Bee and the Lizard Orchids
Of course we will also see many trees and shrubs along the river course and in the forests We can have some fun trying to identify them
Of the reptiles we will probably see lizards and hear frogs We sometimes see a Grass Snake swimming in the river (harmless) and sometimes a Viper (the only venomous snake which is small 18 inches long and not very poisonous)
The hardest things to see are the mammals We have seen Nutria and Otters on these rivers and weve also glimpsed Red Squirrels and Mink and Martens along the banks On the early morning walks weve encountered Foxes Roe Deer and Fallow Deer Badgers have only been seen at night in the headlights
The European Beaver swims in these rivers and has been seen just once by me on the lower Ardeche
Maps And Books
GUIDE BOOKS for the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
It is an unfortunate fact that the Ardeche and Tarn areas of France are not served particularly well by guide books A number of walking books and guides are available and no doubt the regions are mentioned in more general guide books to the whole of France If you do discover something then please let us know
Cevennes and Grand Causses (Crossbill Guides) by Dirk Hillbers
The Ceacutevennes National Park together with its twin the Parc Naturel des Grands Causses are among the richest natural areas in France Against a stunning background of steep cliffs extensive forests and open steppe-like plateaux the visitor can discover an exceptional wealth of flora and fauna The hundreds of kilometres of trails and tracks make it easy to explore the area with its wealth of orchids and other wildflowers its superb range of birds and butterflies The traditional medieval villages amidst the impressive mountainous country provide a relaxed starting point for exploration In other words the Ceacutevennes has everything a naturalist could wish for This nature guide is part of the renowned Crossbill Guides series for nature enthusiasts The Crossbill Guides combine interesting and insightful accounts with up-to-date and practical tourist information and observation tips Detailed descriptions of hiking trails and car routes are conveniently linked to information on everything you want to know about the what why and wherefores of the Ceacutevennes and Grands Causses splendid nature
HISTORY
The Discovery of France A Historical Geography from the Revolution to the First World War by Graham Robb
Illuminating engrossing and full of surprises The Discovery of France is a literary exploration of a country few will recognise from maps and migration to magic language and landscape itrsquos a book that reveals the real past of France to tell the whole story and history of this remarkable nation rsquoWith gloriously apposite facts and an abundance of quirky anecdotes and thumbnail sketches of people places and customs Robb on brilliant form takes us on a stunning journey through the historical landscape of Francersquo Independent lsquoCertain books strain the patience of those close to you How many times can you demand Look at this Can you imagine Did you know that Without actually handing over the volume This is such a bookrsquo Mail on Sunday rsquoAn extraordinary journey of discovery that will delight even the most indolent armchair travellerrsquo Daily Telegraph
A Concise History of France by Roger Price
This book provides a clear and well-informed guide to French history from the emergence of a strong state in the Ile-de-France in the early middle ages to the trente glorieuses following the Second World War and the Mitterrand presidency As such it provides the most up-to-date and comprehensive study of French history available Among the books central themes are the relationship between state and society the impact of war and such crucial questions as who possessed political power how this power was used in whose interests and with what consequences Roger Price examines the role of leading figures including Philip Augustus Henri IV Louis XIV the two Napoleans Clemenceau and De Gaulle as well as the lives of ordinary people A rich entertaining guide for the student and general reader
A Travellerrsquos History of France by Robert Cole
The Travellers History series is designed for the traveller who feels they need more historical background information on the country in which they are staying than can be found in an ordinary guidebook For those who want to look deeper and discover more about the roots of France its history and culture in an enjoyable read this is the book to choose Designed for easy reference it is the key to unlocking the secrets of France If you want to find about the mysterious Merovingian kings or the results of the last election if you want to know when Chartres cathedral was built or how Napoleon rose to power or when and where Princess Diana died - youll find it all in A Travellers History of France Undoubtedly the best way to prepare for a trip to France is to bone up on some history The Travellers History of France by Robert Cole is concise and gives the essential facts in a very readable form The Independent This little book is a very good idea indeed a running commentary on the complexities triumphs and tragedies of French history from the Lascaux Caves to the Pompidou centre A must for tourists who want to know what happened where The Birmingham Post A brilliant idea from Gloucestershire publishers Windrush a series of books which give a potted history of European countries Ostensibly aimed at holidaymakers the first on France is an excellent introduction for anyone who wants an idiots guide to a history that has so often intertwined with our own The Oxford Times
FICTION
Travels with a Donkey in the Ceacutevennes and the Amateur Emigrant by Robert Louis Stevenson
In 1878 Robert Louis Srtevenson was suffereing from poor health struggling to survive on the income derived from his writings and tormented by his infatuation with Fanny Osbourne a married American woman His response was to embark on a journey through the Cevennes with a donkey Modestine and a notebook which he later transformed into lsquoTravels with a Donkeyrsquo Just a few months after publication Stevenson was off again - this time crossing the Atlantic and the breadth of America in the hope of being re-united with Fanny an experince he recored in the lsquoThe Amateur Emigrantrsquo Both pieces are classics of travel writing which reveal as much about Stevensonrsquos character as the landscape he travels through
MAPS
Many types of maps are available for this region but I recommend those produced by the Institute Geographique Nationale (IGN)
They have two series of walking maps which are suitable for our canoeing needs
The Top25 series is at a scale of 4cm to the km and the Top100 series is at a scale of 1cm to the km
For the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
TOP25 IGN 2640OT Gorges du Tarn et de la JonteCausse MejeanPn des Cevennes (GPS)
TOP100 IGN 162 RodezMillau
TOP25 IGN 2939OT Gorges de lArdecheBourg-Saint-AndeolVallon-Pont-DArc (Gps)
This map doesnrsquot cover the Gardon Ceze Chassezac or the upper Ardeche just the Gorge of the Ardeche
TOP100 IGN 163 AvignonNimes
This map covers all the rivers on the trip
These maps are available to buy online at IGN and at the usual online book shops
I would recommend the TOP100 maps We have all these maps with us on the trips
G R E E N R I V E R
Green River CanoesWe provide Guided Inn-to-Inn Canoeing Holidays to the south of France in the Perigord Lot Ardeche and Tarn regions
We provide hand-crafted vacations to combine a pleasant activity canoeing with an insight into the regional history and natural history whilst enjoying the local foods and wines
All our holidays comprise of mostly canoeing with some (often optional) hiking The itinerary is planned but is flexible enough to be changed on the day if required
All our holidays are guided Our guests will be accompanied on the river and trail by an experienced guide who knows the area and rivers well Our other guide will accompany us in the background by driving our vehicle between lodgings When necessary this vehicle will be transferring our luggage meeting with us for lunch and generally being available as and when needed
Day 3 Canoeing the Chassezac Gorge
We will canoe a stretch of the Chassezac River today starting at the Iron Bridge and going onto Chaulet a trip of about 3 hours The river meanders wildly through a very deep gorge with some beautiful beaches just ripe for a picnic lunch and some swimming
Late in the day we will take a hike along the rim of the gorge and look down on where we were previously
Tonight we will stay at the former convent at Le Carmel Les Vans just a very short drive away
Day 4 Hiking the Robert Louis Stevenson Trail
In the morning we will have an hours drive to Les Bleynard where we will start our hike on the GR70 (Robert Louis Stevenson Trail) over Mont Lozere to the Pont de Montvert about 12 miles The walk will offer us splendid views over this remote region of France called the Cevennes An alternative is to hike over the Signal de Ventalon and hike directly to our accommodation
Afterwards its a 45 drive to where we stay at a remote farmhouse in the Cevennes at Le Cauvel
Day 5 Another day of hiking on the Stevenson Trail
After breakfast we will walk out onto the GR70 and continue our way on the Stevenson Trail down to St Germain-de-Calberte If we have the energy then our afternoon hike will take us along the Corniche de Cevennes which looks down the Gorge of the Tarnon River Both of these hikes offer exceptional views over the Cevennes mountains and we will pass ancient Sepulcres Dolmens and Standing Stones too
Tonight we will stay at Le Cauvel again
Day 6 The first day in the Tarn Gorge
After a 45 minute drive to Montbrun we will begin our first day on the beautiful Tarn river We will paddle all the way to St Chely-du-Tarn making sure that we stop for a look around the lovely village of St Enimie This is an absolutely stunning river to paddle The river is crystal clear and runs in a fabulously deep gorge in remote country-side
Tonight we will stay in the Auberge de la Cascade in the outstandingly beautiful village of St Chely-du-Tarn We will be able to walk up from the river beach to our hotel
Day 7 The Second Day on the Tarn
After a leisurely breakfast we stroll down to the beach underneath the bridge in the village and prepare for another beautiful days canoeing on the Tarn This section is just as beautiful as yesterday and we will pass some lovely spots including the village of Hauterives an isolated village only reachable by river and the delightful village of La Malene The river squeezes through the famous Detroits (narrows) on our way to Les Baumes Basse where we finish for the day
We are again staying at the Auberge de la Cascade
Day 8 The Final Day on the Tarn
A short drive will take us down-river to where we will begin our final day on the Tarn We will canoe from Les Vignes to Le Rozier along a section of river which is just as dramatic visually as the first two days but a little more bumpy We will have to concentrate as we ride the Class 2 and 3 rapids as we admire the gorge scenery around us
Once again we will be able to walk to our hotel which is the Doussier
Day 9 A Hike on the Chaos de Montpelier
A 35 minute drive we see us arrive at the small village of La Roque St Marguerite where we will begin our hike up to the Chaos de Montpelier a truly strange outcrop of rocks which have been eroded into exotic shapes In the USA these shapes are known as Hoodoos We will spend several hours wandering numerous trails around this area and experience the fabulous views over the plateau and the gorge
A rather longer drive of about 90 minutes will take us across the bleak plateau landscape known as the Cause Noir back to the Cevennes and the farmhouse at Le Cauvel
Day 10 First Day on the Ardeche River
After a 2 hour drive to Balazuc on the section of the Ardeche called the Defiles we will prepare ourselves for our introduction to the exciting Ardeche river On this first part we will canoe through some small Class 2 rapids and riffles and pass some exotic cliffs and pretty villages Like yesterday we will have to be on our toes as we negotiate some boulder fields in-between some calmer stretches of the river
If we are not sated by that section then after a short drive downstream to Vallon Pont DArc we can paddle a short but interesting section of the river which takes us to a beach near our hotel This section begins at the head of the famous Gorge de LArdeche and takes us canoeing through the legendary Pont DArc a natural stone arch through which the river flows This
section will give us an idea for the spills and thrills to come on our next day on the Ardeche
A short walk (or drive) will take us to our lodgings at the Hotel Belved which is also in the Gorge
Day 11 Canoeing the Gorge LArdeche
Today is the big day when we canoe through the fabulous Gorge LArdeche The Gorge is deep the river is remote and the rapids are exciting Between sections of the river where you can admire the fantastic scenery are Class 2 and Class 3 rapids to grab your attention Most of them are short and sweet and several of them can easily be run several times if you are in the mood
This really is a wonderful stretch of river and we will take all day to enjoy it with a sumptuous beach picnic half-way through the long day
When we are finished we will go for a beer or an ice-cream in the beautiful village of Aigueze which overlooks the final stretch of our days paddling
It is then a short drive to re-visit Olivier and Grace at Le Prieure drsquoOrniols where it all began
Day 12 Departure and Farewells
When we are ready we will drive for an hour to the TGV station at Avignon for our return to Paris and beyond
If time allows if say the train departure is after midday then we can visit the old monastery at Chartreuse de Valbonne or the waterfalls at La Roque-sur-Ceze Or indeed we could spend part of the day in Avignon itself
8 Day Ardeche Trip
This trip removes 4 days from the 12 Day trip described in the previous chapter - Days 6 7 8 and 9 Otherwise the itinerary is the same The whole trip is described fully on our website with a complete schedule map details of hotels and our current prices and schedules You can see many photographs there too
On this trip we canoe on the Gardon the Ceze the Chassezac and the Ardeche rivers in the Ardeche region of south-east France We shall explore the Gorges and Mountains of both the Ardeche and the Cevennes which are still relatively remote even to this day
The rivers in the Ardeche flow eastwards towards the Rhone river which itself then flows south to the Mediterranean The Chassezac is a tributary of the Ardeche Each of these rivers in the Ardeche flow through deep and dramatic gorges in limestone country
The Gardon Ceze and Chassezac are calm rivers with easy paddling through beautiful scenery The Ardeche provides a little more excitement with Class 2 and 3 rapids These rapids are short however and the river provides plenty of easy water between them
In-between the canoeing days we shall hike on the parts of the long-distance trail known as the GR70 - the famous Robert Louis Stevenson Trail The author walked this way more than 100 years ago to see for himself how the Hugenots (Protestants) survived in a largely Catholic country The walk is renowned for the difficulty he experienced in dealing with his donkey Modestine
Of course throughout we shall stay at remote and beautiful places and enjoy the regional cuisine and the local wines
6 Day Tarn Trip
This trip concentrates on the Tarn days on 12 Day trip described in the previous chapter - Days 6 7 8 and 9 With an arrival day and a departure day The whole trip is described fully on our website with a complete schedule map details of hotels and our current prices and schedules You can see many photographs there too
On this trip we plan to arrive and depart via the TGV Railway Station at Montpelier
When we are on the Tarn we canoe in a river which flows westwards towards the Atlantic The Tarn flows through a dramatic limestone gorge and is famously known for its beautifully clear and green waters The first two days on this river provide easy paddling whilst the third day provides more excitement with some rapids to contend with
We shall also walk through the peculiar region called the Chaos of Montpelier which has been eroded into many curious geological shapes
Of course throughout we shall stay at remote and beautiful places and enjoy the regional cuisine and the local wines
Where We Stay
Le Prieure drsquoOrniols
For the first two nights and for our last night we are at the Le Prieure dOrniols just outside the village of Goudargues Situated besides a small castle Olivier and Grace will welcome us and provide delicious meals in the beautiful small stone chambre dhote
Short walks are available either down to the river or up the lane towards the cause Or a five minute drive will take us to the small town of Goudargues
Le Priure drsquoOrniols
Le Carmel Les Vans
On the third night we are at the Le Carmel near the centre of the small town of Les Vans The hotel is a former 19th Century Convent
The hotel has a small swimming pool and we shall be dining in the pretty restaurant
If you are in the mood for an early morning walk then the town is well worth a stroll around
Le Carmel
Le Cauvel
On our fourth and fifth nights we are at Le Cauvel which is a converted farm-house in the heart of the Cevennes not far from Barres-des-Cevennes The place is run by a pair of brothers and their wives and is guided by green and organic principles We also return here on our 9th night
The hotel sits in a setting of beautiful gardens and flowers with a terrace overlooking the valley You can visit the smallholding which produces the vegetables for the kitchen
We can access the Robert Louis Stevenson Trail directly from the farmstead and possibly visit the farm next door to visit the horses
le Cauvel
Auberge de la Cascade
For the sixth and seventh nights we are at the Auberge de la Cascade in St Chely-du-Tarn The hotel comprises almost the whole of this tiny village which sits besides the Tarn over a narrow bridge barred to most traffic
The early morning walk around the village will reveal a tiny chapel underneath the cliffs as well as a small church
The hotel has a small pool for our use and we shall dine in its lovely restaurant overlooking the square
Auberge de Cascade
Hotel Doussiare
For the eighth night we stay at the Hotel DoussiAtildeumlre in Le Rozier The hotel is next to the River Jonte which joins the Tarn and has terraces overlooking the river where we shall dine in the evening
A walk around the village in the evening is well worth the effort as it sits at the junction of two dramatic valleys
Hotel Belved
For the tenth night we stay at the Hotel Belved just south of Vallons Pont DArc in the Ardeche Gorge itself This comfortable place has a small pool for our use and we shall dine here probably on the terrace this evening
After dinner we can walk a short distance down the road to some riverside camp-sites where we may be able to find some entertainment or at least a refreshing beer or two
Hotel BelvedHotel Douiare
What We See
CAVES
The newly opened (2015) Chauvet caves are a replica of those cave discovered in 1994 near the Pont DrsquoArc The replica like that at Lascaux allows visitors to see the ancient cave paintings without damaging the originals b y exposing them to the atmosphere These spectacular paintings are some of the oldest in Europe and some are 40000 years old and feature animals not seen before in other caves
Aven drsquoOrgnac these caves with interesting geological features are in the Ardeche
LE PLUS BEAUX VILLAGE DE FRANCE
Sainte-Enimie on the banks of the Tarn river
Aiguegraveze overlooking the Ardeche river
Balazuc just above the defiles on the Ardeche river
La Roque-sur-Cegraveze on the banks of the Ceze
Montclus on the banks of the Ceze rive
Voguumleacute on the Ardeche river
Canoeing
All the canoes for the trips are provided by us and include paddles and a life-jacket The price is included in the trip
We always prefer open Canadian style canoes which are paddled in tandem - with two people aboard (usually) If you prefer to paddle solo then this can be arranged These canoes are especially suited for the calm water conditions we will be paddling on and are stable and safe They allow plenty of room for yourself and your stuff
From time to time we get clients who wish to paddle a Kayak We can arrange this for you if you prefer but we do stress that the
rivers we canoe do not really warrant the use of a kayak and we feel tandem paddling in a canoe is the way to go
Most of our clients have been canoeing before but we will insist on reviewing safety procedures at the beginning of paddling each day and revise paddling strokes for those who havent paddled for a while or have paddled on lakes rather than rivers for example
For those who have never paddled before their will be plenty of time for lessons as we go These rivers are ideal places for learning
If time and the inclination allows we can also practise other paddling procedures such as Eddy Turns Peeling Out and Ferrying
The clients will not be expected to lift or carry canoes at any time
Hiking
Although the main focus of the trips will be on the canoeing we will have plenty of time for short walks and longer hikes
Where possible we will walk to and from the river although this is not compulsory
In the appropriate season when early mornings are light we can opt to go for a pre-breakfast walk The length and timing of the walk will depend on a consensus reached between those that wish to walk how early we wish to rise and the time of year
Some of the trails we walk on form part of the network of long-distance paths that criss-cross France These are known as Grand Randonees (GR) and are way-marked by a red and white flash We may walk on the GR4 (which goes from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic) passing through the Ardeche We will walk on the GR70 (the famous Robert Louis Stevenson) which
crosses the Cevennes and also possibly the GR6 which traverse the Tarn
Wildlife
On the river we will see plenty of bird-life both on and around the water We will see Ducks and Herons We will also see Kingfishers Wagtails Dippers and Sandpipers We will see Swal lows and Swi f ts and Martins as well as various other birds crossing our path such as Woodpeckers Jays and other crows as well as the
almost invisible songbirds in the tree and hedges Of the raptors we will see the Common Buzzard and possibly an Osprey or a Kestrel
This area of France has a rich variety of Butterflies and we will see many familiar species (if you are from Britain) We will also see some rather more exotic species such as the two types of Swallowtail the Cleopatra the Banded Grayling and if we are lucky some rarer species such as the Large Blue or the Lesser Purple Emperor or Festoons
The river itself will provide m a n y e x a m p l e s o f t h e Dragonfly and Damselfly family The delicate damsels include the Western Demoiselle the White-Legged the Orange F e a t h e r l e g t h e B l u e Featherleg and various Bluets and Bluetails Of the dragons w e m a y s e e t h e S m a l l Pincertail the Yellow Clubtail
the Pronged Clubtail and the Common Clubtai l amongst others
We will also be able to see many flowers especially early in the season before the meadows are cut and these will include several orchids s u c h a s t h e P u r p l e t h e Pyramid the Bee and the Lizard Orchids
Of course we will also see many trees and shrubs along the river course and in the forests We can have some fun trying to identify them
Of the reptiles we will probably see lizards and hear frogs We sometimes see a Grass Snake swimming in the river (harmless) and sometimes a Viper (the only venomous snake which is small 18 inches long and not very poisonous)
The hardest things to see are the mammals We have seen Nutria and Otters on these rivers and weve also glimpsed Red Squirrels and Mink and Martens along the banks On the early morning walks weve encountered Foxes Roe Deer and Fallow Deer Badgers have only been seen at night in the headlights
The European Beaver swims in these rivers and has been seen just once by me on the lower Ardeche
Maps And Books
GUIDE BOOKS for the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
It is an unfortunate fact that the Ardeche and Tarn areas of France are not served particularly well by guide books A number of walking books and guides are available and no doubt the regions are mentioned in more general guide books to the whole of France If you do discover something then please let us know
Cevennes and Grand Causses (Crossbill Guides) by Dirk Hillbers
The Ceacutevennes National Park together with its twin the Parc Naturel des Grands Causses are among the richest natural areas in France Against a stunning background of steep cliffs extensive forests and open steppe-like plateaux the visitor can discover an exceptional wealth of flora and fauna The hundreds of kilometres of trails and tracks make it easy to explore the area with its wealth of orchids and other wildflowers its superb range of birds and butterflies The traditional medieval villages amidst the impressive mountainous country provide a relaxed starting point for exploration In other words the Ceacutevennes has everything a naturalist could wish for This nature guide is part of the renowned Crossbill Guides series for nature enthusiasts The Crossbill Guides combine interesting and insightful accounts with up-to-date and practical tourist information and observation tips Detailed descriptions of hiking trails and car routes are conveniently linked to information on everything you want to know about the what why and wherefores of the Ceacutevennes and Grands Causses splendid nature
HISTORY
The Discovery of France A Historical Geography from the Revolution to the First World War by Graham Robb
Illuminating engrossing and full of surprises The Discovery of France is a literary exploration of a country few will recognise from maps and migration to magic language and landscape itrsquos a book that reveals the real past of France to tell the whole story and history of this remarkable nation rsquoWith gloriously apposite facts and an abundance of quirky anecdotes and thumbnail sketches of people places and customs Robb on brilliant form takes us on a stunning journey through the historical landscape of Francersquo Independent lsquoCertain books strain the patience of those close to you How many times can you demand Look at this Can you imagine Did you know that Without actually handing over the volume This is such a bookrsquo Mail on Sunday rsquoAn extraordinary journey of discovery that will delight even the most indolent armchair travellerrsquo Daily Telegraph
A Concise History of France by Roger Price
This book provides a clear and well-informed guide to French history from the emergence of a strong state in the Ile-de-France in the early middle ages to the trente glorieuses following the Second World War and the Mitterrand presidency As such it provides the most up-to-date and comprehensive study of French history available Among the books central themes are the relationship between state and society the impact of war and such crucial questions as who possessed political power how this power was used in whose interests and with what consequences Roger Price examines the role of leading figures including Philip Augustus Henri IV Louis XIV the two Napoleans Clemenceau and De Gaulle as well as the lives of ordinary people A rich entertaining guide for the student and general reader
A Travellerrsquos History of France by Robert Cole
The Travellers History series is designed for the traveller who feels they need more historical background information on the country in which they are staying than can be found in an ordinary guidebook For those who want to look deeper and discover more about the roots of France its history and culture in an enjoyable read this is the book to choose Designed for easy reference it is the key to unlocking the secrets of France If you want to find about the mysterious Merovingian kings or the results of the last election if you want to know when Chartres cathedral was built or how Napoleon rose to power or when and where Princess Diana died - youll find it all in A Travellers History of France Undoubtedly the best way to prepare for a trip to France is to bone up on some history The Travellers History of France by Robert Cole is concise and gives the essential facts in a very readable form The Independent This little book is a very good idea indeed a running commentary on the complexities triumphs and tragedies of French history from the Lascaux Caves to the Pompidou centre A must for tourists who want to know what happened where The Birmingham Post A brilliant idea from Gloucestershire publishers Windrush a series of books which give a potted history of European countries Ostensibly aimed at holidaymakers the first on France is an excellent introduction for anyone who wants an idiots guide to a history that has so often intertwined with our own The Oxford Times
FICTION
Travels with a Donkey in the Ceacutevennes and the Amateur Emigrant by Robert Louis Stevenson
In 1878 Robert Louis Srtevenson was suffereing from poor health struggling to survive on the income derived from his writings and tormented by his infatuation with Fanny Osbourne a married American woman His response was to embark on a journey through the Cevennes with a donkey Modestine and a notebook which he later transformed into lsquoTravels with a Donkeyrsquo Just a few months after publication Stevenson was off again - this time crossing the Atlantic and the breadth of America in the hope of being re-united with Fanny an experince he recored in the lsquoThe Amateur Emigrantrsquo Both pieces are classics of travel writing which reveal as much about Stevensonrsquos character as the landscape he travels through
MAPS
Many types of maps are available for this region but I recommend those produced by the Institute Geographique Nationale (IGN)
They have two series of walking maps which are suitable for our canoeing needs
The Top25 series is at a scale of 4cm to the km and the Top100 series is at a scale of 1cm to the km
For the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
TOP25 IGN 2640OT Gorges du Tarn et de la JonteCausse MejeanPn des Cevennes (GPS)
TOP100 IGN 162 RodezMillau
TOP25 IGN 2939OT Gorges de lArdecheBourg-Saint-AndeolVallon-Pont-DArc (Gps)
This map doesnrsquot cover the Gardon Ceze Chassezac or the upper Ardeche just the Gorge of the Ardeche
TOP100 IGN 163 AvignonNimes
This map covers all the rivers on the trip
These maps are available to buy online at IGN and at the usual online book shops
I would recommend the TOP100 maps We have all these maps with us on the trips
G R E E N R I V E R
Green River CanoesWe provide Guided Inn-to-Inn Canoeing Holidays to the south of France in the Perigord Lot Ardeche and Tarn regions
We provide hand-crafted vacations to combine a pleasant activity canoeing with an insight into the regional history and natural history whilst enjoying the local foods and wines
All our holidays comprise of mostly canoeing with some (often optional) hiking The itinerary is planned but is flexible enough to be changed on the day if required
All our holidays are guided Our guests will be accompanied on the river and trail by an experienced guide who knows the area and rivers well Our other guide will accompany us in the background by driving our vehicle between lodgings When necessary this vehicle will be transferring our luggage meeting with us for lunch and generally being available as and when needed
Day 4 Hiking the Robert Louis Stevenson Trail
In the morning we will have an hours drive to Les Bleynard where we will start our hike on the GR70 (Robert Louis Stevenson Trail) over Mont Lozere to the Pont de Montvert about 12 miles The walk will offer us splendid views over this remote region of France called the Cevennes An alternative is to hike over the Signal de Ventalon and hike directly to our accommodation
Afterwards its a 45 drive to where we stay at a remote farmhouse in the Cevennes at Le Cauvel
Day 5 Another day of hiking on the Stevenson Trail
After breakfast we will walk out onto the GR70 and continue our way on the Stevenson Trail down to St Germain-de-Calberte If we have the energy then our afternoon hike will take us along the Corniche de Cevennes which looks down the Gorge of the Tarnon River Both of these hikes offer exceptional views over the Cevennes mountains and we will pass ancient Sepulcres Dolmens and Standing Stones too
Tonight we will stay at Le Cauvel again
Day 6 The first day in the Tarn Gorge
After a 45 minute drive to Montbrun we will begin our first day on the beautiful Tarn river We will paddle all the way to St Chely-du-Tarn making sure that we stop for a look around the lovely village of St Enimie This is an absolutely stunning river to paddle The river is crystal clear and runs in a fabulously deep gorge in remote country-side
Tonight we will stay in the Auberge de la Cascade in the outstandingly beautiful village of St Chely-du-Tarn We will be able to walk up from the river beach to our hotel
Day 7 The Second Day on the Tarn
After a leisurely breakfast we stroll down to the beach underneath the bridge in the village and prepare for another beautiful days canoeing on the Tarn This section is just as beautiful as yesterday and we will pass some lovely spots including the village of Hauterives an isolated village only reachable by river and the delightful village of La Malene The river squeezes through the famous Detroits (narrows) on our way to Les Baumes Basse where we finish for the day
We are again staying at the Auberge de la Cascade
Day 8 The Final Day on the Tarn
A short drive will take us down-river to where we will begin our final day on the Tarn We will canoe from Les Vignes to Le Rozier along a section of river which is just as dramatic visually as the first two days but a little more bumpy We will have to concentrate as we ride the Class 2 and 3 rapids as we admire the gorge scenery around us
Once again we will be able to walk to our hotel which is the Doussier
Day 9 A Hike on the Chaos de Montpelier
A 35 minute drive we see us arrive at the small village of La Roque St Marguerite where we will begin our hike up to the Chaos de Montpelier a truly strange outcrop of rocks which have been eroded into exotic shapes In the USA these shapes are known as Hoodoos We will spend several hours wandering numerous trails around this area and experience the fabulous views over the plateau and the gorge
A rather longer drive of about 90 minutes will take us across the bleak plateau landscape known as the Cause Noir back to the Cevennes and the farmhouse at Le Cauvel
Day 10 First Day on the Ardeche River
After a 2 hour drive to Balazuc on the section of the Ardeche called the Defiles we will prepare ourselves for our introduction to the exciting Ardeche river On this first part we will canoe through some small Class 2 rapids and riffles and pass some exotic cliffs and pretty villages Like yesterday we will have to be on our toes as we negotiate some boulder fields in-between some calmer stretches of the river
If we are not sated by that section then after a short drive downstream to Vallon Pont DArc we can paddle a short but interesting section of the river which takes us to a beach near our hotel This section begins at the head of the famous Gorge de LArdeche and takes us canoeing through the legendary Pont DArc a natural stone arch through which the river flows This
section will give us an idea for the spills and thrills to come on our next day on the Ardeche
A short walk (or drive) will take us to our lodgings at the Hotel Belved which is also in the Gorge
Day 11 Canoeing the Gorge LArdeche
Today is the big day when we canoe through the fabulous Gorge LArdeche The Gorge is deep the river is remote and the rapids are exciting Between sections of the river where you can admire the fantastic scenery are Class 2 and Class 3 rapids to grab your attention Most of them are short and sweet and several of them can easily be run several times if you are in the mood
This really is a wonderful stretch of river and we will take all day to enjoy it with a sumptuous beach picnic half-way through the long day
When we are finished we will go for a beer or an ice-cream in the beautiful village of Aigueze which overlooks the final stretch of our days paddling
It is then a short drive to re-visit Olivier and Grace at Le Prieure drsquoOrniols where it all began
Day 12 Departure and Farewells
When we are ready we will drive for an hour to the TGV station at Avignon for our return to Paris and beyond
If time allows if say the train departure is after midday then we can visit the old monastery at Chartreuse de Valbonne or the waterfalls at La Roque-sur-Ceze Or indeed we could spend part of the day in Avignon itself
8 Day Ardeche Trip
This trip removes 4 days from the 12 Day trip described in the previous chapter - Days 6 7 8 and 9 Otherwise the itinerary is the same The whole trip is described fully on our website with a complete schedule map details of hotels and our current prices and schedules You can see many photographs there too
On this trip we canoe on the Gardon the Ceze the Chassezac and the Ardeche rivers in the Ardeche region of south-east France We shall explore the Gorges and Mountains of both the Ardeche and the Cevennes which are still relatively remote even to this day
The rivers in the Ardeche flow eastwards towards the Rhone river which itself then flows south to the Mediterranean The Chassezac is a tributary of the Ardeche Each of these rivers in the Ardeche flow through deep and dramatic gorges in limestone country
The Gardon Ceze and Chassezac are calm rivers with easy paddling through beautiful scenery The Ardeche provides a little more excitement with Class 2 and 3 rapids These rapids are short however and the river provides plenty of easy water between them
In-between the canoeing days we shall hike on the parts of the long-distance trail known as the GR70 - the famous Robert Louis Stevenson Trail The author walked this way more than 100 years ago to see for himself how the Hugenots (Protestants) survived in a largely Catholic country The walk is renowned for the difficulty he experienced in dealing with his donkey Modestine
Of course throughout we shall stay at remote and beautiful places and enjoy the regional cuisine and the local wines
6 Day Tarn Trip
This trip concentrates on the Tarn days on 12 Day trip described in the previous chapter - Days 6 7 8 and 9 With an arrival day and a departure day The whole trip is described fully on our website with a complete schedule map details of hotels and our current prices and schedules You can see many photographs there too
On this trip we plan to arrive and depart via the TGV Railway Station at Montpelier
When we are on the Tarn we canoe in a river which flows westwards towards the Atlantic The Tarn flows through a dramatic limestone gorge and is famously known for its beautifully clear and green waters The first two days on this river provide easy paddling whilst the third day provides more excitement with some rapids to contend with
We shall also walk through the peculiar region called the Chaos of Montpelier which has been eroded into many curious geological shapes
Of course throughout we shall stay at remote and beautiful places and enjoy the regional cuisine and the local wines
Where We Stay
Le Prieure drsquoOrniols
For the first two nights and for our last night we are at the Le Prieure dOrniols just outside the village of Goudargues Situated besides a small castle Olivier and Grace will welcome us and provide delicious meals in the beautiful small stone chambre dhote
Short walks are available either down to the river or up the lane towards the cause Or a five minute drive will take us to the small town of Goudargues
Le Priure drsquoOrniols
Le Carmel Les Vans
On the third night we are at the Le Carmel near the centre of the small town of Les Vans The hotel is a former 19th Century Convent
The hotel has a small swimming pool and we shall be dining in the pretty restaurant
If you are in the mood for an early morning walk then the town is well worth a stroll around
Le Carmel
Le Cauvel
On our fourth and fifth nights we are at Le Cauvel which is a converted farm-house in the heart of the Cevennes not far from Barres-des-Cevennes The place is run by a pair of brothers and their wives and is guided by green and organic principles We also return here on our 9th night
The hotel sits in a setting of beautiful gardens and flowers with a terrace overlooking the valley You can visit the smallholding which produces the vegetables for the kitchen
We can access the Robert Louis Stevenson Trail directly from the farmstead and possibly visit the farm next door to visit the horses
le Cauvel
Auberge de la Cascade
For the sixth and seventh nights we are at the Auberge de la Cascade in St Chely-du-Tarn The hotel comprises almost the whole of this tiny village which sits besides the Tarn over a narrow bridge barred to most traffic
The early morning walk around the village will reveal a tiny chapel underneath the cliffs as well as a small church
The hotel has a small pool for our use and we shall dine in its lovely restaurant overlooking the square
Auberge de Cascade
Hotel Doussiare
For the eighth night we stay at the Hotel DoussiAtildeumlre in Le Rozier The hotel is next to the River Jonte which joins the Tarn and has terraces overlooking the river where we shall dine in the evening
A walk around the village in the evening is well worth the effort as it sits at the junction of two dramatic valleys
Hotel Belved
For the tenth night we stay at the Hotel Belved just south of Vallons Pont DArc in the Ardeche Gorge itself This comfortable place has a small pool for our use and we shall dine here probably on the terrace this evening
After dinner we can walk a short distance down the road to some riverside camp-sites where we may be able to find some entertainment or at least a refreshing beer or two
Hotel BelvedHotel Douiare
What We See
CAVES
The newly opened (2015) Chauvet caves are a replica of those cave discovered in 1994 near the Pont DrsquoArc The replica like that at Lascaux allows visitors to see the ancient cave paintings without damaging the originals b y exposing them to the atmosphere These spectacular paintings are some of the oldest in Europe and some are 40000 years old and feature animals not seen before in other caves
Aven drsquoOrgnac these caves with interesting geological features are in the Ardeche
LE PLUS BEAUX VILLAGE DE FRANCE
Sainte-Enimie on the banks of the Tarn river
Aiguegraveze overlooking the Ardeche river
Balazuc just above the defiles on the Ardeche river
La Roque-sur-Cegraveze on the banks of the Ceze
Montclus on the banks of the Ceze rive
Voguumleacute on the Ardeche river
Canoeing
All the canoes for the trips are provided by us and include paddles and a life-jacket The price is included in the trip
We always prefer open Canadian style canoes which are paddled in tandem - with two people aboard (usually) If you prefer to paddle solo then this can be arranged These canoes are especially suited for the calm water conditions we will be paddling on and are stable and safe They allow plenty of room for yourself and your stuff
From time to time we get clients who wish to paddle a Kayak We can arrange this for you if you prefer but we do stress that the
rivers we canoe do not really warrant the use of a kayak and we feel tandem paddling in a canoe is the way to go
Most of our clients have been canoeing before but we will insist on reviewing safety procedures at the beginning of paddling each day and revise paddling strokes for those who havent paddled for a while or have paddled on lakes rather than rivers for example
For those who have never paddled before their will be plenty of time for lessons as we go These rivers are ideal places for learning
If time and the inclination allows we can also practise other paddling procedures such as Eddy Turns Peeling Out and Ferrying
The clients will not be expected to lift or carry canoes at any time
Hiking
Although the main focus of the trips will be on the canoeing we will have plenty of time for short walks and longer hikes
Where possible we will walk to and from the river although this is not compulsory
In the appropriate season when early mornings are light we can opt to go for a pre-breakfast walk The length and timing of the walk will depend on a consensus reached between those that wish to walk how early we wish to rise and the time of year
Some of the trails we walk on form part of the network of long-distance paths that criss-cross France These are known as Grand Randonees (GR) and are way-marked by a red and white flash We may walk on the GR4 (which goes from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic) passing through the Ardeche We will walk on the GR70 (the famous Robert Louis Stevenson) which
crosses the Cevennes and also possibly the GR6 which traverse the Tarn
Wildlife
On the river we will see plenty of bird-life both on and around the water We will see Ducks and Herons We will also see Kingfishers Wagtails Dippers and Sandpipers We will see Swal lows and Swi f ts and Martins as well as various other birds crossing our path such as Woodpeckers Jays and other crows as well as the
almost invisible songbirds in the tree and hedges Of the raptors we will see the Common Buzzard and possibly an Osprey or a Kestrel
This area of France has a rich variety of Butterflies and we will see many familiar species (if you are from Britain) We will also see some rather more exotic species such as the two types of Swallowtail the Cleopatra the Banded Grayling and if we are lucky some rarer species such as the Large Blue or the Lesser Purple Emperor or Festoons
The river itself will provide m a n y e x a m p l e s o f t h e Dragonfly and Damselfly family The delicate damsels include the Western Demoiselle the White-Legged the Orange F e a t h e r l e g t h e B l u e Featherleg and various Bluets and Bluetails Of the dragons w e m a y s e e t h e S m a l l Pincertail the Yellow Clubtail
the Pronged Clubtail and the Common Clubtai l amongst others
We will also be able to see many flowers especially early in the season before the meadows are cut and these will include several orchids s u c h a s t h e P u r p l e t h e Pyramid the Bee and the Lizard Orchids
Of course we will also see many trees and shrubs along the river course and in the forests We can have some fun trying to identify them
Of the reptiles we will probably see lizards and hear frogs We sometimes see a Grass Snake swimming in the river (harmless) and sometimes a Viper (the only venomous snake which is small 18 inches long and not very poisonous)
The hardest things to see are the mammals We have seen Nutria and Otters on these rivers and weve also glimpsed Red Squirrels and Mink and Martens along the banks On the early morning walks weve encountered Foxes Roe Deer and Fallow Deer Badgers have only been seen at night in the headlights
The European Beaver swims in these rivers and has been seen just once by me on the lower Ardeche
Maps And Books
GUIDE BOOKS for the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
It is an unfortunate fact that the Ardeche and Tarn areas of France are not served particularly well by guide books A number of walking books and guides are available and no doubt the regions are mentioned in more general guide books to the whole of France If you do discover something then please let us know
Cevennes and Grand Causses (Crossbill Guides) by Dirk Hillbers
The Ceacutevennes National Park together with its twin the Parc Naturel des Grands Causses are among the richest natural areas in France Against a stunning background of steep cliffs extensive forests and open steppe-like plateaux the visitor can discover an exceptional wealth of flora and fauna The hundreds of kilometres of trails and tracks make it easy to explore the area with its wealth of orchids and other wildflowers its superb range of birds and butterflies The traditional medieval villages amidst the impressive mountainous country provide a relaxed starting point for exploration In other words the Ceacutevennes has everything a naturalist could wish for This nature guide is part of the renowned Crossbill Guides series for nature enthusiasts The Crossbill Guides combine interesting and insightful accounts with up-to-date and practical tourist information and observation tips Detailed descriptions of hiking trails and car routes are conveniently linked to information on everything you want to know about the what why and wherefores of the Ceacutevennes and Grands Causses splendid nature
HISTORY
The Discovery of France A Historical Geography from the Revolution to the First World War by Graham Robb
Illuminating engrossing and full of surprises The Discovery of France is a literary exploration of a country few will recognise from maps and migration to magic language and landscape itrsquos a book that reveals the real past of France to tell the whole story and history of this remarkable nation rsquoWith gloriously apposite facts and an abundance of quirky anecdotes and thumbnail sketches of people places and customs Robb on brilliant form takes us on a stunning journey through the historical landscape of Francersquo Independent lsquoCertain books strain the patience of those close to you How many times can you demand Look at this Can you imagine Did you know that Without actually handing over the volume This is such a bookrsquo Mail on Sunday rsquoAn extraordinary journey of discovery that will delight even the most indolent armchair travellerrsquo Daily Telegraph
A Concise History of France by Roger Price
This book provides a clear and well-informed guide to French history from the emergence of a strong state in the Ile-de-France in the early middle ages to the trente glorieuses following the Second World War and the Mitterrand presidency As such it provides the most up-to-date and comprehensive study of French history available Among the books central themes are the relationship between state and society the impact of war and such crucial questions as who possessed political power how this power was used in whose interests and with what consequences Roger Price examines the role of leading figures including Philip Augustus Henri IV Louis XIV the two Napoleans Clemenceau and De Gaulle as well as the lives of ordinary people A rich entertaining guide for the student and general reader
A Travellerrsquos History of France by Robert Cole
The Travellers History series is designed for the traveller who feels they need more historical background information on the country in which they are staying than can be found in an ordinary guidebook For those who want to look deeper and discover more about the roots of France its history and culture in an enjoyable read this is the book to choose Designed for easy reference it is the key to unlocking the secrets of France If you want to find about the mysterious Merovingian kings or the results of the last election if you want to know when Chartres cathedral was built or how Napoleon rose to power or when and where Princess Diana died - youll find it all in A Travellers History of France Undoubtedly the best way to prepare for a trip to France is to bone up on some history The Travellers History of France by Robert Cole is concise and gives the essential facts in a very readable form The Independent This little book is a very good idea indeed a running commentary on the complexities triumphs and tragedies of French history from the Lascaux Caves to the Pompidou centre A must for tourists who want to know what happened where The Birmingham Post A brilliant idea from Gloucestershire publishers Windrush a series of books which give a potted history of European countries Ostensibly aimed at holidaymakers the first on France is an excellent introduction for anyone who wants an idiots guide to a history that has so often intertwined with our own The Oxford Times
FICTION
Travels with a Donkey in the Ceacutevennes and the Amateur Emigrant by Robert Louis Stevenson
In 1878 Robert Louis Srtevenson was suffereing from poor health struggling to survive on the income derived from his writings and tormented by his infatuation with Fanny Osbourne a married American woman His response was to embark on a journey through the Cevennes with a donkey Modestine and a notebook which he later transformed into lsquoTravels with a Donkeyrsquo Just a few months after publication Stevenson was off again - this time crossing the Atlantic and the breadth of America in the hope of being re-united with Fanny an experince he recored in the lsquoThe Amateur Emigrantrsquo Both pieces are classics of travel writing which reveal as much about Stevensonrsquos character as the landscape he travels through
MAPS
Many types of maps are available for this region but I recommend those produced by the Institute Geographique Nationale (IGN)
They have two series of walking maps which are suitable for our canoeing needs
The Top25 series is at a scale of 4cm to the km and the Top100 series is at a scale of 1cm to the km
For the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
TOP25 IGN 2640OT Gorges du Tarn et de la JonteCausse MejeanPn des Cevennes (GPS)
TOP100 IGN 162 RodezMillau
TOP25 IGN 2939OT Gorges de lArdecheBourg-Saint-AndeolVallon-Pont-DArc (Gps)
This map doesnrsquot cover the Gardon Ceze Chassezac or the upper Ardeche just the Gorge of the Ardeche
TOP100 IGN 163 AvignonNimes
This map covers all the rivers on the trip
These maps are available to buy online at IGN and at the usual online book shops
I would recommend the TOP100 maps We have all these maps with us on the trips
G R E E N R I V E R
Green River CanoesWe provide Guided Inn-to-Inn Canoeing Holidays to the south of France in the Perigord Lot Ardeche and Tarn regions
We provide hand-crafted vacations to combine a pleasant activity canoeing with an insight into the regional history and natural history whilst enjoying the local foods and wines
All our holidays comprise of mostly canoeing with some (often optional) hiking The itinerary is planned but is flexible enough to be changed on the day if required
All our holidays are guided Our guests will be accompanied on the river and trail by an experienced guide who knows the area and rivers well Our other guide will accompany us in the background by driving our vehicle between lodgings When necessary this vehicle will be transferring our luggage meeting with us for lunch and generally being available as and when needed
Day 5 Another day of hiking on the Stevenson Trail
After breakfast we will walk out onto the GR70 and continue our way on the Stevenson Trail down to St Germain-de-Calberte If we have the energy then our afternoon hike will take us along the Corniche de Cevennes which looks down the Gorge of the Tarnon River Both of these hikes offer exceptional views over the Cevennes mountains and we will pass ancient Sepulcres Dolmens and Standing Stones too
Tonight we will stay at Le Cauvel again
Day 6 The first day in the Tarn Gorge
After a 45 minute drive to Montbrun we will begin our first day on the beautiful Tarn river We will paddle all the way to St Chely-du-Tarn making sure that we stop for a look around the lovely village of St Enimie This is an absolutely stunning river to paddle The river is crystal clear and runs in a fabulously deep gorge in remote country-side
Tonight we will stay in the Auberge de la Cascade in the outstandingly beautiful village of St Chely-du-Tarn We will be able to walk up from the river beach to our hotel
Day 7 The Second Day on the Tarn
After a leisurely breakfast we stroll down to the beach underneath the bridge in the village and prepare for another beautiful days canoeing on the Tarn This section is just as beautiful as yesterday and we will pass some lovely spots including the village of Hauterives an isolated village only reachable by river and the delightful village of La Malene The river squeezes through the famous Detroits (narrows) on our way to Les Baumes Basse where we finish for the day
We are again staying at the Auberge de la Cascade
Day 8 The Final Day on the Tarn
A short drive will take us down-river to where we will begin our final day on the Tarn We will canoe from Les Vignes to Le Rozier along a section of river which is just as dramatic visually as the first two days but a little more bumpy We will have to concentrate as we ride the Class 2 and 3 rapids as we admire the gorge scenery around us
Once again we will be able to walk to our hotel which is the Doussier
Day 9 A Hike on the Chaos de Montpelier
A 35 minute drive we see us arrive at the small village of La Roque St Marguerite where we will begin our hike up to the Chaos de Montpelier a truly strange outcrop of rocks which have been eroded into exotic shapes In the USA these shapes are known as Hoodoos We will spend several hours wandering numerous trails around this area and experience the fabulous views over the plateau and the gorge
A rather longer drive of about 90 minutes will take us across the bleak plateau landscape known as the Cause Noir back to the Cevennes and the farmhouse at Le Cauvel
Day 10 First Day on the Ardeche River
After a 2 hour drive to Balazuc on the section of the Ardeche called the Defiles we will prepare ourselves for our introduction to the exciting Ardeche river On this first part we will canoe through some small Class 2 rapids and riffles and pass some exotic cliffs and pretty villages Like yesterday we will have to be on our toes as we negotiate some boulder fields in-between some calmer stretches of the river
If we are not sated by that section then after a short drive downstream to Vallon Pont DArc we can paddle a short but interesting section of the river which takes us to a beach near our hotel This section begins at the head of the famous Gorge de LArdeche and takes us canoeing through the legendary Pont DArc a natural stone arch through which the river flows This
section will give us an idea for the spills and thrills to come on our next day on the Ardeche
A short walk (or drive) will take us to our lodgings at the Hotel Belved which is also in the Gorge
Day 11 Canoeing the Gorge LArdeche
Today is the big day when we canoe through the fabulous Gorge LArdeche The Gorge is deep the river is remote and the rapids are exciting Between sections of the river where you can admire the fantastic scenery are Class 2 and Class 3 rapids to grab your attention Most of them are short and sweet and several of them can easily be run several times if you are in the mood
This really is a wonderful stretch of river and we will take all day to enjoy it with a sumptuous beach picnic half-way through the long day
When we are finished we will go for a beer or an ice-cream in the beautiful village of Aigueze which overlooks the final stretch of our days paddling
It is then a short drive to re-visit Olivier and Grace at Le Prieure drsquoOrniols where it all began
Day 12 Departure and Farewells
When we are ready we will drive for an hour to the TGV station at Avignon for our return to Paris and beyond
If time allows if say the train departure is after midday then we can visit the old monastery at Chartreuse de Valbonne or the waterfalls at La Roque-sur-Ceze Or indeed we could spend part of the day in Avignon itself
8 Day Ardeche Trip
This trip removes 4 days from the 12 Day trip described in the previous chapter - Days 6 7 8 and 9 Otherwise the itinerary is the same The whole trip is described fully on our website with a complete schedule map details of hotels and our current prices and schedules You can see many photographs there too
On this trip we canoe on the Gardon the Ceze the Chassezac and the Ardeche rivers in the Ardeche region of south-east France We shall explore the Gorges and Mountains of both the Ardeche and the Cevennes which are still relatively remote even to this day
The rivers in the Ardeche flow eastwards towards the Rhone river which itself then flows south to the Mediterranean The Chassezac is a tributary of the Ardeche Each of these rivers in the Ardeche flow through deep and dramatic gorges in limestone country
The Gardon Ceze and Chassezac are calm rivers with easy paddling through beautiful scenery The Ardeche provides a little more excitement with Class 2 and 3 rapids These rapids are short however and the river provides plenty of easy water between them
In-between the canoeing days we shall hike on the parts of the long-distance trail known as the GR70 - the famous Robert Louis Stevenson Trail The author walked this way more than 100 years ago to see for himself how the Hugenots (Protestants) survived in a largely Catholic country The walk is renowned for the difficulty he experienced in dealing with his donkey Modestine
Of course throughout we shall stay at remote and beautiful places and enjoy the regional cuisine and the local wines
6 Day Tarn Trip
This trip concentrates on the Tarn days on 12 Day trip described in the previous chapter - Days 6 7 8 and 9 With an arrival day and a departure day The whole trip is described fully on our website with a complete schedule map details of hotels and our current prices and schedules You can see many photographs there too
On this trip we plan to arrive and depart via the TGV Railway Station at Montpelier
When we are on the Tarn we canoe in a river which flows westwards towards the Atlantic The Tarn flows through a dramatic limestone gorge and is famously known for its beautifully clear and green waters The first two days on this river provide easy paddling whilst the third day provides more excitement with some rapids to contend with
We shall also walk through the peculiar region called the Chaos of Montpelier which has been eroded into many curious geological shapes
Of course throughout we shall stay at remote and beautiful places and enjoy the regional cuisine and the local wines
Where We Stay
Le Prieure drsquoOrniols
For the first two nights and for our last night we are at the Le Prieure dOrniols just outside the village of Goudargues Situated besides a small castle Olivier and Grace will welcome us and provide delicious meals in the beautiful small stone chambre dhote
Short walks are available either down to the river or up the lane towards the cause Or a five minute drive will take us to the small town of Goudargues
Le Priure drsquoOrniols
Le Carmel Les Vans
On the third night we are at the Le Carmel near the centre of the small town of Les Vans The hotel is a former 19th Century Convent
The hotel has a small swimming pool and we shall be dining in the pretty restaurant
If you are in the mood for an early morning walk then the town is well worth a stroll around
Le Carmel
Le Cauvel
On our fourth and fifth nights we are at Le Cauvel which is a converted farm-house in the heart of the Cevennes not far from Barres-des-Cevennes The place is run by a pair of brothers and their wives and is guided by green and organic principles We also return here on our 9th night
The hotel sits in a setting of beautiful gardens and flowers with a terrace overlooking the valley You can visit the smallholding which produces the vegetables for the kitchen
We can access the Robert Louis Stevenson Trail directly from the farmstead and possibly visit the farm next door to visit the horses
le Cauvel
Auberge de la Cascade
For the sixth and seventh nights we are at the Auberge de la Cascade in St Chely-du-Tarn The hotel comprises almost the whole of this tiny village which sits besides the Tarn over a narrow bridge barred to most traffic
The early morning walk around the village will reveal a tiny chapel underneath the cliffs as well as a small church
The hotel has a small pool for our use and we shall dine in its lovely restaurant overlooking the square
Auberge de Cascade
Hotel Doussiare
For the eighth night we stay at the Hotel DoussiAtildeumlre in Le Rozier The hotel is next to the River Jonte which joins the Tarn and has terraces overlooking the river where we shall dine in the evening
A walk around the village in the evening is well worth the effort as it sits at the junction of two dramatic valleys
Hotel Belved
For the tenth night we stay at the Hotel Belved just south of Vallons Pont DArc in the Ardeche Gorge itself This comfortable place has a small pool for our use and we shall dine here probably on the terrace this evening
After dinner we can walk a short distance down the road to some riverside camp-sites where we may be able to find some entertainment or at least a refreshing beer or two
Hotel BelvedHotel Douiare
What We See
CAVES
The newly opened (2015) Chauvet caves are a replica of those cave discovered in 1994 near the Pont DrsquoArc The replica like that at Lascaux allows visitors to see the ancient cave paintings without damaging the originals b y exposing them to the atmosphere These spectacular paintings are some of the oldest in Europe and some are 40000 years old and feature animals not seen before in other caves
Aven drsquoOrgnac these caves with interesting geological features are in the Ardeche
LE PLUS BEAUX VILLAGE DE FRANCE
Sainte-Enimie on the banks of the Tarn river
Aiguegraveze overlooking the Ardeche river
Balazuc just above the defiles on the Ardeche river
La Roque-sur-Cegraveze on the banks of the Ceze
Montclus on the banks of the Ceze rive
Voguumleacute on the Ardeche river
Canoeing
All the canoes for the trips are provided by us and include paddles and a life-jacket The price is included in the trip
We always prefer open Canadian style canoes which are paddled in tandem - with two people aboard (usually) If you prefer to paddle solo then this can be arranged These canoes are especially suited for the calm water conditions we will be paddling on and are stable and safe They allow plenty of room for yourself and your stuff
From time to time we get clients who wish to paddle a Kayak We can arrange this for you if you prefer but we do stress that the
rivers we canoe do not really warrant the use of a kayak and we feel tandem paddling in a canoe is the way to go
Most of our clients have been canoeing before but we will insist on reviewing safety procedures at the beginning of paddling each day and revise paddling strokes for those who havent paddled for a while or have paddled on lakes rather than rivers for example
For those who have never paddled before their will be plenty of time for lessons as we go These rivers are ideal places for learning
If time and the inclination allows we can also practise other paddling procedures such as Eddy Turns Peeling Out and Ferrying
The clients will not be expected to lift or carry canoes at any time
Hiking
Although the main focus of the trips will be on the canoeing we will have plenty of time for short walks and longer hikes
Where possible we will walk to and from the river although this is not compulsory
In the appropriate season when early mornings are light we can opt to go for a pre-breakfast walk The length and timing of the walk will depend on a consensus reached between those that wish to walk how early we wish to rise and the time of year
Some of the trails we walk on form part of the network of long-distance paths that criss-cross France These are known as Grand Randonees (GR) and are way-marked by a red and white flash We may walk on the GR4 (which goes from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic) passing through the Ardeche We will walk on the GR70 (the famous Robert Louis Stevenson) which
crosses the Cevennes and also possibly the GR6 which traverse the Tarn
Wildlife
On the river we will see plenty of bird-life both on and around the water We will see Ducks and Herons We will also see Kingfishers Wagtails Dippers and Sandpipers We will see Swal lows and Swi f ts and Martins as well as various other birds crossing our path such as Woodpeckers Jays and other crows as well as the
almost invisible songbirds in the tree and hedges Of the raptors we will see the Common Buzzard and possibly an Osprey or a Kestrel
This area of France has a rich variety of Butterflies and we will see many familiar species (if you are from Britain) We will also see some rather more exotic species such as the two types of Swallowtail the Cleopatra the Banded Grayling and if we are lucky some rarer species such as the Large Blue or the Lesser Purple Emperor or Festoons
The river itself will provide m a n y e x a m p l e s o f t h e Dragonfly and Damselfly family The delicate damsels include the Western Demoiselle the White-Legged the Orange F e a t h e r l e g t h e B l u e Featherleg and various Bluets and Bluetails Of the dragons w e m a y s e e t h e S m a l l Pincertail the Yellow Clubtail
the Pronged Clubtail and the Common Clubtai l amongst others
We will also be able to see many flowers especially early in the season before the meadows are cut and these will include several orchids s u c h a s t h e P u r p l e t h e Pyramid the Bee and the Lizard Orchids
Of course we will also see many trees and shrubs along the river course and in the forests We can have some fun trying to identify them
Of the reptiles we will probably see lizards and hear frogs We sometimes see a Grass Snake swimming in the river (harmless) and sometimes a Viper (the only venomous snake which is small 18 inches long and not very poisonous)
The hardest things to see are the mammals We have seen Nutria and Otters on these rivers and weve also glimpsed Red Squirrels and Mink and Martens along the banks On the early morning walks weve encountered Foxes Roe Deer and Fallow Deer Badgers have only been seen at night in the headlights
The European Beaver swims in these rivers and has been seen just once by me on the lower Ardeche
Maps And Books
GUIDE BOOKS for the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
It is an unfortunate fact that the Ardeche and Tarn areas of France are not served particularly well by guide books A number of walking books and guides are available and no doubt the regions are mentioned in more general guide books to the whole of France If you do discover something then please let us know
Cevennes and Grand Causses (Crossbill Guides) by Dirk Hillbers
The Ceacutevennes National Park together with its twin the Parc Naturel des Grands Causses are among the richest natural areas in France Against a stunning background of steep cliffs extensive forests and open steppe-like plateaux the visitor can discover an exceptional wealth of flora and fauna The hundreds of kilometres of trails and tracks make it easy to explore the area with its wealth of orchids and other wildflowers its superb range of birds and butterflies The traditional medieval villages amidst the impressive mountainous country provide a relaxed starting point for exploration In other words the Ceacutevennes has everything a naturalist could wish for This nature guide is part of the renowned Crossbill Guides series for nature enthusiasts The Crossbill Guides combine interesting and insightful accounts with up-to-date and practical tourist information and observation tips Detailed descriptions of hiking trails and car routes are conveniently linked to information on everything you want to know about the what why and wherefores of the Ceacutevennes and Grands Causses splendid nature
HISTORY
The Discovery of France A Historical Geography from the Revolution to the First World War by Graham Robb
Illuminating engrossing and full of surprises The Discovery of France is a literary exploration of a country few will recognise from maps and migration to magic language and landscape itrsquos a book that reveals the real past of France to tell the whole story and history of this remarkable nation rsquoWith gloriously apposite facts and an abundance of quirky anecdotes and thumbnail sketches of people places and customs Robb on brilliant form takes us on a stunning journey through the historical landscape of Francersquo Independent lsquoCertain books strain the patience of those close to you How many times can you demand Look at this Can you imagine Did you know that Without actually handing over the volume This is such a bookrsquo Mail on Sunday rsquoAn extraordinary journey of discovery that will delight even the most indolent armchair travellerrsquo Daily Telegraph
A Concise History of France by Roger Price
This book provides a clear and well-informed guide to French history from the emergence of a strong state in the Ile-de-France in the early middle ages to the trente glorieuses following the Second World War and the Mitterrand presidency As such it provides the most up-to-date and comprehensive study of French history available Among the books central themes are the relationship between state and society the impact of war and such crucial questions as who possessed political power how this power was used in whose interests and with what consequences Roger Price examines the role of leading figures including Philip Augustus Henri IV Louis XIV the two Napoleans Clemenceau and De Gaulle as well as the lives of ordinary people A rich entertaining guide for the student and general reader
A Travellerrsquos History of France by Robert Cole
The Travellers History series is designed for the traveller who feels they need more historical background information on the country in which they are staying than can be found in an ordinary guidebook For those who want to look deeper and discover more about the roots of France its history and culture in an enjoyable read this is the book to choose Designed for easy reference it is the key to unlocking the secrets of France If you want to find about the mysterious Merovingian kings or the results of the last election if you want to know when Chartres cathedral was built or how Napoleon rose to power or when and where Princess Diana died - youll find it all in A Travellers History of France Undoubtedly the best way to prepare for a trip to France is to bone up on some history The Travellers History of France by Robert Cole is concise and gives the essential facts in a very readable form The Independent This little book is a very good idea indeed a running commentary on the complexities triumphs and tragedies of French history from the Lascaux Caves to the Pompidou centre A must for tourists who want to know what happened where The Birmingham Post A brilliant idea from Gloucestershire publishers Windrush a series of books which give a potted history of European countries Ostensibly aimed at holidaymakers the first on France is an excellent introduction for anyone who wants an idiots guide to a history that has so often intertwined with our own The Oxford Times
FICTION
Travels with a Donkey in the Ceacutevennes and the Amateur Emigrant by Robert Louis Stevenson
In 1878 Robert Louis Srtevenson was suffereing from poor health struggling to survive on the income derived from his writings and tormented by his infatuation with Fanny Osbourne a married American woman His response was to embark on a journey through the Cevennes with a donkey Modestine and a notebook which he later transformed into lsquoTravels with a Donkeyrsquo Just a few months after publication Stevenson was off again - this time crossing the Atlantic and the breadth of America in the hope of being re-united with Fanny an experince he recored in the lsquoThe Amateur Emigrantrsquo Both pieces are classics of travel writing which reveal as much about Stevensonrsquos character as the landscape he travels through
MAPS
Many types of maps are available for this region but I recommend those produced by the Institute Geographique Nationale (IGN)
They have two series of walking maps which are suitable for our canoeing needs
The Top25 series is at a scale of 4cm to the km and the Top100 series is at a scale of 1cm to the km
For the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
TOP25 IGN 2640OT Gorges du Tarn et de la JonteCausse MejeanPn des Cevennes (GPS)
TOP100 IGN 162 RodezMillau
TOP25 IGN 2939OT Gorges de lArdecheBourg-Saint-AndeolVallon-Pont-DArc (Gps)
This map doesnrsquot cover the Gardon Ceze Chassezac or the upper Ardeche just the Gorge of the Ardeche
TOP100 IGN 163 AvignonNimes
This map covers all the rivers on the trip
These maps are available to buy online at IGN and at the usual online book shops
I would recommend the TOP100 maps We have all these maps with us on the trips
G R E E N R I V E R
Green River CanoesWe provide Guided Inn-to-Inn Canoeing Holidays to the south of France in the Perigord Lot Ardeche and Tarn regions
We provide hand-crafted vacations to combine a pleasant activity canoeing with an insight into the regional history and natural history whilst enjoying the local foods and wines
All our holidays comprise of mostly canoeing with some (often optional) hiking The itinerary is planned but is flexible enough to be changed on the day if required
All our holidays are guided Our guests will be accompanied on the river and trail by an experienced guide who knows the area and rivers well Our other guide will accompany us in the background by driving our vehicle between lodgings When necessary this vehicle will be transferring our luggage meeting with us for lunch and generally being available as and when needed
Day 6 The first day in the Tarn Gorge
After a 45 minute drive to Montbrun we will begin our first day on the beautiful Tarn river We will paddle all the way to St Chely-du-Tarn making sure that we stop for a look around the lovely village of St Enimie This is an absolutely stunning river to paddle The river is crystal clear and runs in a fabulously deep gorge in remote country-side
Tonight we will stay in the Auberge de la Cascade in the outstandingly beautiful village of St Chely-du-Tarn We will be able to walk up from the river beach to our hotel
Day 7 The Second Day on the Tarn
After a leisurely breakfast we stroll down to the beach underneath the bridge in the village and prepare for another beautiful days canoeing on the Tarn This section is just as beautiful as yesterday and we will pass some lovely spots including the village of Hauterives an isolated village only reachable by river and the delightful village of La Malene The river squeezes through the famous Detroits (narrows) on our way to Les Baumes Basse where we finish for the day
We are again staying at the Auberge de la Cascade
Day 8 The Final Day on the Tarn
A short drive will take us down-river to where we will begin our final day on the Tarn We will canoe from Les Vignes to Le Rozier along a section of river which is just as dramatic visually as the first two days but a little more bumpy We will have to concentrate as we ride the Class 2 and 3 rapids as we admire the gorge scenery around us
Once again we will be able to walk to our hotel which is the Doussier
Day 9 A Hike on the Chaos de Montpelier
A 35 minute drive we see us arrive at the small village of La Roque St Marguerite where we will begin our hike up to the Chaos de Montpelier a truly strange outcrop of rocks which have been eroded into exotic shapes In the USA these shapes are known as Hoodoos We will spend several hours wandering numerous trails around this area and experience the fabulous views over the plateau and the gorge
A rather longer drive of about 90 minutes will take us across the bleak plateau landscape known as the Cause Noir back to the Cevennes and the farmhouse at Le Cauvel
Day 10 First Day on the Ardeche River
After a 2 hour drive to Balazuc on the section of the Ardeche called the Defiles we will prepare ourselves for our introduction to the exciting Ardeche river On this first part we will canoe through some small Class 2 rapids and riffles and pass some exotic cliffs and pretty villages Like yesterday we will have to be on our toes as we negotiate some boulder fields in-between some calmer stretches of the river
If we are not sated by that section then after a short drive downstream to Vallon Pont DArc we can paddle a short but interesting section of the river which takes us to a beach near our hotel This section begins at the head of the famous Gorge de LArdeche and takes us canoeing through the legendary Pont DArc a natural stone arch through which the river flows This
section will give us an idea for the spills and thrills to come on our next day on the Ardeche
A short walk (or drive) will take us to our lodgings at the Hotel Belved which is also in the Gorge
Day 11 Canoeing the Gorge LArdeche
Today is the big day when we canoe through the fabulous Gorge LArdeche The Gorge is deep the river is remote and the rapids are exciting Between sections of the river where you can admire the fantastic scenery are Class 2 and Class 3 rapids to grab your attention Most of them are short and sweet and several of them can easily be run several times if you are in the mood
This really is a wonderful stretch of river and we will take all day to enjoy it with a sumptuous beach picnic half-way through the long day
When we are finished we will go for a beer or an ice-cream in the beautiful village of Aigueze which overlooks the final stretch of our days paddling
It is then a short drive to re-visit Olivier and Grace at Le Prieure drsquoOrniols where it all began
Day 12 Departure and Farewells
When we are ready we will drive for an hour to the TGV station at Avignon for our return to Paris and beyond
If time allows if say the train departure is after midday then we can visit the old monastery at Chartreuse de Valbonne or the waterfalls at La Roque-sur-Ceze Or indeed we could spend part of the day in Avignon itself
8 Day Ardeche Trip
This trip removes 4 days from the 12 Day trip described in the previous chapter - Days 6 7 8 and 9 Otherwise the itinerary is the same The whole trip is described fully on our website with a complete schedule map details of hotels and our current prices and schedules You can see many photographs there too
On this trip we canoe on the Gardon the Ceze the Chassezac and the Ardeche rivers in the Ardeche region of south-east France We shall explore the Gorges and Mountains of both the Ardeche and the Cevennes which are still relatively remote even to this day
The rivers in the Ardeche flow eastwards towards the Rhone river which itself then flows south to the Mediterranean The Chassezac is a tributary of the Ardeche Each of these rivers in the Ardeche flow through deep and dramatic gorges in limestone country
The Gardon Ceze and Chassezac are calm rivers with easy paddling through beautiful scenery The Ardeche provides a little more excitement with Class 2 and 3 rapids These rapids are short however and the river provides plenty of easy water between them
In-between the canoeing days we shall hike on the parts of the long-distance trail known as the GR70 - the famous Robert Louis Stevenson Trail The author walked this way more than 100 years ago to see for himself how the Hugenots (Protestants) survived in a largely Catholic country The walk is renowned for the difficulty he experienced in dealing with his donkey Modestine
Of course throughout we shall stay at remote and beautiful places and enjoy the regional cuisine and the local wines
6 Day Tarn Trip
This trip concentrates on the Tarn days on 12 Day trip described in the previous chapter - Days 6 7 8 and 9 With an arrival day and a departure day The whole trip is described fully on our website with a complete schedule map details of hotels and our current prices and schedules You can see many photographs there too
On this trip we plan to arrive and depart via the TGV Railway Station at Montpelier
When we are on the Tarn we canoe in a river which flows westwards towards the Atlantic The Tarn flows through a dramatic limestone gorge and is famously known for its beautifully clear and green waters The first two days on this river provide easy paddling whilst the third day provides more excitement with some rapids to contend with
We shall also walk through the peculiar region called the Chaos of Montpelier which has been eroded into many curious geological shapes
Of course throughout we shall stay at remote and beautiful places and enjoy the regional cuisine and the local wines
Where We Stay
Le Prieure drsquoOrniols
For the first two nights and for our last night we are at the Le Prieure dOrniols just outside the village of Goudargues Situated besides a small castle Olivier and Grace will welcome us and provide delicious meals in the beautiful small stone chambre dhote
Short walks are available either down to the river or up the lane towards the cause Or a five minute drive will take us to the small town of Goudargues
Le Priure drsquoOrniols
Le Carmel Les Vans
On the third night we are at the Le Carmel near the centre of the small town of Les Vans The hotel is a former 19th Century Convent
The hotel has a small swimming pool and we shall be dining in the pretty restaurant
If you are in the mood for an early morning walk then the town is well worth a stroll around
Le Carmel
Le Cauvel
On our fourth and fifth nights we are at Le Cauvel which is a converted farm-house in the heart of the Cevennes not far from Barres-des-Cevennes The place is run by a pair of brothers and their wives and is guided by green and organic principles We also return here on our 9th night
The hotel sits in a setting of beautiful gardens and flowers with a terrace overlooking the valley You can visit the smallholding which produces the vegetables for the kitchen
We can access the Robert Louis Stevenson Trail directly from the farmstead and possibly visit the farm next door to visit the horses
le Cauvel
Auberge de la Cascade
For the sixth and seventh nights we are at the Auberge de la Cascade in St Chely-du-Tarn The hotel comprises almost the whole of this tiny village which sits besides the Tarn over a narrow bridge barred to most traffic
The early morning walk around the village will reveal a tiny chapel underneath the cliffs as well as a small church
The hotel has a small pool for our use and we shall dine in its lovely restaurant overlooking the square
Auberge de Cascade
Hotel Doussiare
For the eighth night we stay at the Hotel DoussiAtildeumlre in Le Rozier The hotel is next to the River Jonte which joins the Tarn and has terraces overlooking the river where we shall dine in the evening
A walk around the village in the evening is well worth the effort as it sits at the junction of two dramatic valleys
Hotel Belved
For the tenth night we stay at the Hotel Belved just south of Vallons Pont DArc in the Ardeche Gorge itself This comfortable place has a small pool for our use and we shall dine here probably on the terrace this evening
After dinner we can walk a short distance down the road to some riverside camp-sites where we may be able to find some entertainment or at least a refreshing beer or two
Hotel BelvedHotel Douiare
What We See
CAVES
The newly opened (2015) Chauvet caves are a replica of those cave discovered in 1994 near the Pont DrsquoArc The replica like that at Lascaux allows visitors to see the ancient cave paintings without damaging the originals b y exposing them to the atmosphere These spectacular paintings are some of the oldest in Europe and some are 40000 years old and feature animals not seen before in other caves
Aven drsquoOrgnac these caves with interesting geological features are in the Ardeche
LE PLUS BEAUX VILLAGE DE FRANCE
Sainte-Enimie on the banks of the Tarn river
Aiguegraveze overlooking the Ardeche river
Balazuc just above the defiles on the Ardeche river
La Roque-sur-Cegraveze on the banks of the Ceze
Montclus on the banks of the Ceze rive
Voguumleacute on the Ardeche river
Canoeing
All the canoes for the trips are provided by us and include paddles and a life-jacket The price is included in the trip
We always prefer open Canadian style canoes which are paddled in tandem - with two people aboard (usually) If you prefer to paddle solo then this can be arranged These canoes are especially suited for the calm water conditions we will be paddling on and are stable and safe They allow plenty of room for yourself and your stuff
From time to time we get clients who wish to paddle a Kayak We can arrange this for you if you prefer but we do stress that the
rivers we canoe do not really warrant the use of a kayak and we feel tandem paddling in a canoe is the way to go
Most of our clients have been canoeing before but we will insist on reviewing safety procedures at the beginning of paddling each day and revise paddling strokes for those who havent paddled for a while or have paddled on lakes rather than rivers for example
For those who have never paddled before their will be plenty of time for lessons as we go These rivers are ideal places for learning
If time and the inclination allows we can also practise other paddling procedures such as Eddy Turns Peeling Out and Ferrying
The clients will not be expected to lift or carry canoes at any time
Hiking
Although the main focus of the trips will be on the canoeing we will have plenty of time for short walks and longer hikes
Where possible we will walk to and from the river although this is not compulsory
In the appropriate season when early mornings are light we can opt to go for a pre-breakfast walk The length and timing of the walk will depend on a consensus reached between those that wish to walk how early we wish to rise and the time of year
Some of the trails we walk on form part of the network of long-distance paths that criss-cross France These are known as Grand Randonees (GR) and are way-marked by a red and white flash We may walk on the GR4 (which goes from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic) passing through the Ardeche We will walk on the GR70 (the famous Robert Louis Stevenson) which
crosses the Cevennes and also possibly the GR6 which traverse the Tarn
Wildlife
On the river we will see plenty of bird-life both on and around the water We will see Ducks and Herons We will also see Kingfishers Wagtails Dippers and Sandpipers We will see Swal lows and Swi f ts and Martins as well as various other birds crossing our path such as Woodpeckers Jays and other crows as well as the
almost invisible songbirds in the tree and hedges Of the raptors we will see the Common Buzzard and possibly an Osprey or a Kestrel
This area of France has a rich variety of Butterflies and we will see many familiar species (if you are from Britain) We will also see some rather more exotic species such as the two types of Swallowtail the Cleopatra the Banded Grayling and if we are lucky some rarer species such as the Large Blue or the Lesser Purple Emperor or Festoons
The river itself will provide m a n y e x a m p l e s o f t h e Dragonfly and Damselfly family The delicate damsels include the Western Demoiselle the White-Legged the Orange F e a t h e r l e g t h e B l u e Featherleg and various Bluets and Bluetails Of the dragons w e m a y s e e t h e S m a l l Pincertail the Yellow Clubtail
the Pronged Clubtail and the Common Clubtai l amongst others
We will also be able to see many flowers especially early in the season before the meadows are cut and these will include several orchids s u c h a s t h e P u r p l e t h e Pyramid the Bee and the Lizard Orchids
Of course we will also see many trees and shrubs along the river course and in the forests We can have some fun trying to identify them
Of the reptiles we will probably see lizards and hear frogs We sometimes see a Grass Snake swimming in the river (harmless) and sometimes a Viper (the only venomous snake which is small 18 inches long and not very poisonous)
The hardest things to see are the mammals We have seen Nutria and Otters on these rivers and weve also glimpsed Red Squirrels and Mink and Martens along the banks On the early morning walks weve encountered Foxes Roe Deer and Fallow Deer Badgers have only been seen at night in the headlights
The European Beaver swims in these rivers and has been seen just once by me on the lower Ardeche
Maps And Books
GUIDE BOOKS for the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
It is an unfortunate fact that the Ardeche and Tarn areas of France are not served particularly well by guide books A number of walking books and guides are available and no doubt the regions are mentioned in more general guide books to the whole of France If you do discover something then please let us know
Cevennes and Grand Causses (Crossbill Guides) by Dirk Hillbers
The Ceacutevennes National Park together with its twin the Parc Naturel des Grands Causses are among the richest natural areas in France Against a stunning background of steep cliffs extensive forests and open steppe-like plateaux the visitor can discover an exceptional wealth of flora and fauna The hundreds of kilometres of trails and tracks make it easy to explore the area with its wealth of orchids and other wildflowers its superb range of birds and butterflies The traditional medieval villages amidst the impressive mountainous country provide a relaxed starting point for exploration In other words the Ceacutevennes has everything a naturalist could wish for This nature guide is part of the renowned Crossbill Guides series for nature enthusiasts The Crossbill Guides combine interesting and insightful accounts with up-to-date and practical tourist information and observation tips Detailed descriptions of hiking trails and car routes are conveniently linked to information on everything you want to know about the what why and wherefores of the Ceacutevennes and Grands Causses splendid nature
HISTORY
The Discovery of France A Historical Geography from the Revolution to the First World War by Graham Robb
Illuminating engrossing and full of surprises The Discovery of France is a literary exploration of a country few will recognise from maps and migration to magic language and landscape itrsquos a book that reveals the real past of France to tell the whole story and history of this remarkable nation rsquoWith gloriously apposite facts and an abundance of quirky anecdotes and thumbnail sketches of people places and customs Robb on brilliant form takes us on a stunning journey through the historical landscape of Francersquo Independent lsquoCertain books strain the patience of those close to you How many times can you demand Look at this Can you imagine Did you know that Without actually handing over the volume This is such a bookrsquo Mail on Sunday rsquoAn extraordinary journey of discovery that will delight even the most indolent armchair travellerrsquo Daily Telegraph
A Concise History of France by Roger Price
This book provides a clear and well-informed guide to French history from the emergence of a strong state in the Ile-de-France in the early middle ages to the trente glorieuses following the Second World War and the Mitterrand presidency As such it provides the most up-to-date and comprehensive study of French history available Among the books central themes are the relationship between state and society the impact of war and such crucial questions as who possessed political power how this power was used in whose interests and with what consequences Roger Price examines the role of leading figures including Philip Augustus Henri IV Louis XIV the two Napoleans Clemenceau and De Gaulle as well as the lives of ordinary people A rich entertaining guide for the student and general reader
A Travellerrsquos History of France by Robert Cole
The Travellers History series is designed for the traveller who feels they need more historical background information on the country in which they are staying than can be found in an ordinary guidebook For those who want to look deeper and discover more about the roots of France its history and culture in an enjoyable read this is the book to choose Designed for easy reference it is the key to unlocking the secrets of France If you want to find about the mysterious Merovingian kings or the results of the last election if you want to know when Chartres cathedral was built or how Napoleon rose to power or when and where Princess Diana died - youll find it all in A Travellers History of France Undoubtedly the best way to prepare for a trip to France is to bone up on some history The Travellers History of France by Robert Cole is concise and gives the essential facts in a very readable form The Independent This little book is a very good idea indeed a running commentary on the complexities triumphs and tragedies of French history from the Lascaux Caves to the Pompidou centre A must for tourists who want to know what happened where The Birmingham Post A brilliant idea from Gloucestershire publishers Windrush a series of books which give a potted history of European countries Ostensibly aimed at holidaymakers the first on France is an excellent introduction for anyone who wants an idiots guide to a history that has so often intertwined with our own The Oxford Times
FICTION
Travels with a Donkey in the Ceacutevennes and the Amateur Emigrant by Robert Louis Stevenson
In 1878 Robert Louis Srtevenson was suffereing from poor health struggling to survive on the income derived from his writings and tormented by his infatuation with Fanny Osbourne a married American woman His response was to embark on a journey through the Cevennes with a donkey Modestine and a notebook which he later transformed into lsquoTravels with a Donkeyrsquo Just a few months after publication Stevenson was off again - this time crossing the Atlantic and the breadth of America in the hope of being re-united with Fanny an experince he recored in the lsquoThe Amateur Emigrantrsquo Both pieces are classics of travel writing which reveal as much about Stevensonrsquos character as the landscape he travels through
MAPS
Many types of maps are available for this region but I recommend those produced by the Institute Geographique Nationale (IGN)
They have two series of walking maps which are suitable for our canoeing needs
The Top25 series is at a scale of 4cm to the km and the Top100 series is at a scale of 1cm to the km
For the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
TOP25 IGN 2640OT Gorges du Tarn et de la JonteCausse MejeanPn des Cevennes (GPS)
TOP100 IGN 162 RodezMillau
TOP25 IGN 2939OT Gorges de lArdecheBourg-Saint-AndeolVallon-Pont-DArc (Gps)
This map doesnrsquot cover the Gardon Ceze Chassezac or the upper Ardeche just the Gorge of the Ardeche
TOP100 IGN 163 AvignonNimes
This map covers all the rivers on the trip
These maps are available to buy online at IGN and at the usual online book shops
I would recommend the TOP100 maps We have all these maps with us on the trips
G R E E N R I V E R
Green River CanoesWe provide Guided Inn-to-Inn Canoeing Holidays to the south of France in the Perigord Lot Ardeche and Tarn regions
We provide hand-crafted vacations to combine a pleasant activity canoeing with an insight into the regional history and natural history whilst enjoying the local foods and wines
All our holidays comprise of mostly canoeing with some (often optional) hiking The itinerary is planned but is flexible enough to be changed on the day if required
All our holidays are guided Our guests will be accompanied on the river and trail by an experienced guide who knows the area and rivers well Our other guide will accompany us in the background by driving our vehicle between lodgings When necessary this vehicle will be transferring our luggage meeting with us for lunch and generally being available as and when needed
Day 7 The Second Day on the Tarn
After a leisurely breakfast we stroll down to the beach underneath the bridge in the village and prepare for another beautiful days canoeing on the Tarn This section is just as beautiful as yesterday and we will pass some lovely spots including the village of Hauterives an isolated village only reachable by river and the delightful village of La Malene The river squeezes through the famous Detroits (narrows) on our way to Les Baumes Basse where we finish for the day
We are again staying at the Auberge de la Cascade
Day 8 The Final Day on the Tarn
A short drive will take us down-river to where we will begin our final day on the Tarn We will canoe from Les Vignes to Le Rozier along a section of river which is just as dramatic visually as the first two days but a little more bumpy We will have to concentrate as we ride the Class 2 and 3 rapids as we admire the gorge scenery around us
Once again we will be able to walk to our hotel which is the Doussier
Day 9 A Hike on the Chaos de Montpelier
A 35 minute drive we see us arrive at the small village of La Roque St Marguerite where we will begin our hike up to the Chaos de Montpelier a truly strange outcrop of rocks which have been eroded into exotic shapes In the USA these shapes are known as Hoodoos We will spend several hours wandering numerous trails around this area and experience the fabulous views over the plateau and the gorge
A rather longer drive of about 90 minutes will take us across the bleak plateau landscape known as the Cause Noir back to the Cevennes and the farmhouse at Le Cauvel
Day 10 First Day on the Ardeche River
After a 2 hour drive to Balazuc on the section of the Ardeche called the Defiles we will prepare ourselves for our introduction to the exciting Ardeche river On this first part we will canoe through some small Class 2 rapids and riffles and pass some exotic cliffs and pretty villages Like yesterday we will have to be on our toes as we negotiate some boulder fields in-between some calmer stretches of the river
If we are not sated by that section then after a short drive downstream to Vallon Pont DArc we can paddle a short but interesting section of the river which takes us to a beach near our hotel This section begins at the head of the famous Gorge de LArdeche and takes us canoeing through the legendary Pont DArc a natural stone arch through which the river flows This
section will give us an idea for the spills and thrills to come on our next day on the Ardeche
A short walk (or drive) will take us to our lodgings at the Hotel Belved which is also in the Gorge
Day 11 Canoeing the Gorge LArdeche
Today is the big day when we canoe through the fabulous Gorge LArdeche The Gorge is deep the river is remote and the rapids are exciting Between sections of the river where you can admire the fantastic scenery are Class 2 and Class 3 rapids to grab your attention Most of them are short and sweet and several of them can easily be run several times if you are in the mood
This really is a wonderful stretch of river and we will take all day to enjoy it with a sumptuous beach picnic half-way through the long day
When we are finished we will go for a beer or an ice-cream in the beautiful village of Aigueze which overlooks the final stretch of our days paddling
It is then a short drive to re-visit Olivier and Grace at Le Prieure drsquoOrniols where it all began
Day 12 Departure and Farewells
When we are ready we will drive for an hour to the TGV station at Avignon for our return to Paris and beyond
If time allows if say the train departure is after midday then we can visit the old monastery at Chartreuse de Valbonne or the waterfalls at La Roque-sur-Ceze Or indeed we could spend part of the day in Avignon itself
8 Day Ardeche Trip
This trip removes 4 days from the 12 Day trip described in the previous chapter - Days 6 7 8 and 9 Otherwise the itinerary is the same The whole trip is described fully on our website with a complete schedule map details of hotels and our current prices and schedules You can see many photographs there too
On this trip we canoe on the Gardon the Ceze the Chassezac and the Ardeche rivers in the Ardeche region of south-east France We shall explore the Gorges and Mountains of both the Ardeche and the Cevennes which are still relatively remote even to this day
The rivers in the Ardeche flow eastwards towards the Rhone river which itself then flows south to the Mediterranean The Chassezac is a tributary of the Ardeche Each of these rivers in the Ardeche flow through deep and dramatic gorges in limestone country
The Gardon Ceze and Chassezac are calm rivers with easy paddling through beautiful scenery The Ardeche provides a little more excitement with Class 2 and 3 rapids These rapids are short however and the river provides plenty of easy water between them
In-between the canoeing days we shall hike on the parts of the long-distance trail known as the GR70 - the famous Robert Louis Stevenson Trail The author walked this way more than 100 years ago to see for himself how the Hugenots (Protestants) survived in a largely Catholic country The walk is renowned for the difficulty he experienced in dealing with his donkey Modestine
Of course throughout we shall stay at remote and beautiful places and enjoy the regional cuisine and the local wines
6 Day Tarn Trip
This trip concentrates on the Tarn days on 12 Day trip described in the previous chapter - Days 6 7 8 and 9 With an arrival day and a departure day The whole trip is described fully on our website with a complete schedule map details of hotels and our current prices and schedules You can see many photographs there too
On this trip we plan to arrive and depart via the TGV Railway Station at Montpelier
When we are on the Tarn we canoe in a river which flows westwards towards the Atlantic The Tarn flows through a dramatic limestone gorge and is famously known for its beautifully clear and green waters The first two days on this river provide easy paddling whilst the third day provides more excitement with some rapids to contend with
We shall also walk through the peculiar region called the Chaos of Montpelier which has been eroded into many curious geological shapes
Of course throughout we shall stay at remote and beautiful places and enjoy the regional cuisine and the local wines
Where We Stay
Le Prieure drsquoOrniols
For the first two nights and for our last night we are at the Le Prieure dOrniols just outside the village of Goudargues Situated besides a small castle Olivier and Grace will welcome us and provide delicious meals in the beautiful small stone chambre dhote
Short walks are available either down to the river or up the lane towards the cause Or a five minute drive will take us to the small town of Goudargues
Le Priure drsquoOrniols
Le Carmel Les Vans
On the third night we are at the Le Carmel near the centre of the small town of Les Vans The hotel is a former 19th Century Convent
The hotel has a small swimming pool and we shall be dining in the pretty restaurant
If you are in the mood for an early morning walk then the town is well worth a stroll around
Le Carmel
Le Cauvel
On our fourth and fifth nights we are at Le Cauvel which is a converted farm-house in the heart of the Cevennes not far from Barres-des-Cevennes The place is run by a pair of brothers and their wives and is guided by green and organic principles We also return here on our 9th night
The hotel sits in a setting of beautiful gardens and flowers with a terrace overlooking the valley You can visit the smallholding which produces the vegetables for the kitchen
We can access the Robert Louis Stevenson Trail directly from the farmstead and possibly visit the farm next door to visit the horses
le Cauvel
Auberge de la Cascade
For the sixth and seventh nights we are at the Auberge de la Cascade in St Chely-du-Tarn The hotel comprises almost the whole of this tiny village which sits besides the Tarn over a narrow bridge barred to most traffic
The early morning walk around the village will reveal a tiny chapel underneath the cliffs as well as a small church
The hotel has a small pool for our use and we shall dine in its lovely restaurant overlooking the square
Auberge de Cascade
Hotel Doussiare
For the eighth night we stay at the Hotel DoussiAtildeumlre in Le Rozier The hotel is next to the River Jonte which joins the Tarn and has terraces overlooking the river where we shall dine in the evening
A walk around the village in the evening is well worth the effort as it sits at the junction of two dramatic valleys
Hotel Belved
For the tenth night we stay at the Hotel Belved just south of Vallons Pont DArc in the Ardeche Gorge itself This comfortable place has a small pool for our use and we shall dine here probably on the terrace this evening
After dinner we can walk a short distance down the road to some riverside camp-sites where we may be able to find some entertainment or at least a refreshing beer or two
Hotel BelvedHotel Douiare
What We See
CAVES
The newly opened (2015) Chauvet caves are a replica of those cave discovered in 1994 near the Pont DrsquoArc The replica like that at Lascaux allows visitors to see the ancient cave paintings without damaging the originals b y exposing them to the atmosphere These spectacular paintings are some of the oldest in Europe and some are 40000 years old and feature animals not seen before in other caves
Aven drsquoOrgnac these caves with interesting geological features are in the Ardeche
LE PLUS BEAUX VILLAGE DE FRANCE
Sainte-Enimie on the banks of the Tarn river
Aiguegraveze overlooking the Ardeche river
Balazuc just above the defiles on the Ardeche river
La Roque-sur-Cegraveze on the banks of the Ceze
Montclus on the banks of the Ceze rive
Voguumleacute on the Ardeche river
Canoeing
All the canoes for the trips are provided by us and include paddles and a life-jacket The price is included in the trip
We always prefer open Canadian style canoes which are paddled in tandem - with two people aboard (usually) If you prefer to paddle solo then this can be arranged These canoes are especially suited for the calm water conditions we will be paddling on and are stable and safe They allow plenty of room for yourself and your stuff
From time to time we get clients who wish to paddle a Kayak We can arrange this for you if you prefer but we do stress that the
rivers we canoe do not really warrant the use of a kayak and we feel tandem paddling in a canoe is the way to go
Most of our clients have been canoeing before but we will insist on reviewing safety procedures at the beginning of paddling each day and revise paddling strokes for those who havent paddled for a while or have paddled on lakes rather than rivers for example
For those who have never paddled before their will be plenty of time for lessons as we go These rivers are ideal places for learning
If time and the inclination allows we can also practise other paddling procedures such as Eddy Turns Peeling Out and Ferrying
The clients will not be expected to lift or carry canoes at any time
Hiking
Although the main focus of the trips will be on the canoeing we will have plenty of time for short walks and longer hikes
Where possible we will walk to and from the river although this is not compulsory
In the appropriate season when early mornings are light we can opt to go for a pre-breakfast walk The length and timing of the walk will depend on a consensus reached between those that wish to walk how early we wish to rise and the time of year
Some of the trails we walk on form part of the network of long-distance paths that criss-cross France These are known as Grand Randonees (GR) and are way-marked by a red and white flash We may walk on the GR4 (which goes from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic) passing through the Ardeche We will walk on the GR70 (the famous Robert Louis Stevenson) which
crosses the Cevennes and also possibly the GR6 which traverse the Tarn
Wildlife
On the river we will see plenty of bird-life both on and around the water We will see Ducks and Herons We will also see Kingfishers Wagtails Dippers and Sandpipers We will see Swal lows and Swi f ts and Martins as well as various other birds crossing our path such as Woodpeckers Jays and other crows as well as the
almost invisible songbirds in the tree and hedges Of the raptors we will see the Common Buzzard and possibly an Osprey or a Kestrel
This area of France has a rich variety of Butterflies and we will see many familiar species (if you are from Britain) We will also see some rather more exotic species such as the two types of Swallowtail the Cleopatra the Banded Grayling and if we are lucky some rarer species such as the Large Blue or the Lesser Purple Emperor or Festoons
The river itself will provide m a n y e x a m p l e s o f t h e Dragonfly and Damselfly family The delicate damsels include the Western Demoiselle the White-Legged the Orange F e a t h e r l e g t h e B l u e Featherleg and various Bluets and Bluetails Of the dragons w e m a y s e e t h e S m a l l Pincertail the Yellow Clubtail
the Pronged Clubtail and the Common Clubtai l amongst others
We will also be able to see many flowers especially early in the season before the meadows are cut and these will include several orchids s u c h a s t h e P u r p l e t h e Pyramid the Bee and the Lizard Orchids
Of course we will also see many trees and shrubs along the river course and in the forests We can have some fun trying to identify them
Of the reptiles we will probably see lizards and hear frogs We sometimes see a Grass Snake swimming in the river (harmless) and sometimes a Viper (the only venomous snake which is small 18 inches long and not very poisonous)
The hardest things to see are the mammals We have seen Nutria and Otters on these rivers and weve also glimpsed Red Squirrels and Mink and Martens along the banks On the early morning walks weve encountered Foxes Roe Deer and Fallow Deer Badgers have only been seen at night in the headlights
The European Beaver swims in these rivers and has been seen just once by me on the lower Ardeche
Maps And Books
GUIDE BOOKS for the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
It is an unfortunate fact that the Ardeche and Tarn areas of France are not served particularly well by guide books A number of walking books and guides are available and no doubt the regions are mentioned in more general guide books to the whole of France If you do discover something then please let us know
Cevennes and Grand Causses (Crossbill Guides) by Dirk Hillbers
The Ceacutevennes National Park together with its twin the Parc Naturel des Grands Causses are among the richest natural areas in France Against a stunning background of steep cliffs extensive forests and open steppe-like plateaux the visitor can discover an exceptional wealth of flora and fauna The hundreds of kilometres of trails and tracks make it easy to explore the area with its wealth of orchids and other wildflowers its superb range of birds and butterflies The traditional medieval villages amidst the impressive mountainous country provide a relaxed starting point for exploration In other words the Ceacutevennes has everything a naturalist could wish for This nature guide is part of the renowned Crossbill Guides series for nature enthusiasts The Crossbill Guides combine interesting and insightful accounts with up-to-date and practical tourist information and observation tips Detailed descriptions of hiking trails and car routes are conveniently linked to information on everything you want to know about the what why and wherefores of the Ceacutevennes and Grands Causses splendid nature
HISTORY
The Discovery of France A Historical Geography from the Revolution to the First World War by Graham Robb
Illuminating engrossing and full of surprises The Discovery of France is a literary exploration of a country few will recognise from maps and migration to magic language and landscape itrsquos a book that reveals the real past of France to tell the whole story and history of this remarkable nation rsquoWith gloriously apposite facts and an abundance of quirky anecdotes and thumbnail sketches of people places and customs Robb on brilliant form takes us on a stunning journey through the historical landscape of Francersquo Independent lsquoCertain books strain the patience of those close to you How many times can you demand Look at this Can you imagine Did you know that Without actually handing over the volume This is such a bookrsquo Mail on Sunday rsquoAn extraordinary journey of discovery that will delight even the most indolent armchair travellerrsquo Daily Telegraph
A Concise History of France by Roger Price
This book provides a clear and well-informed guide to French history from the emergence of a strong state in the Ile-de-France in the early middle ages to the trente glorieuses following the Second World War and the Mitterrand presidency As such it provides the most up-to-date and comprehensive study of French history available Among the books central themes are the relationship between state and society the impact of war and such crucial questions as who possessed political power how this power was used in whose interests and with what consequences Roger Price examines the role of leading figures including Philip Augustus Henri IV Louis XIV the two Napoleans Clemenceau and De Gaulle as well as the lives of ordinary people A rich entertaining guide for the student and general reader
A Travellerrsquos History of France by Robert Cole
The Travellers History series is designed for the traveller who feels they need more historical background information on the country in which they are staying than can be found in an ordinary guidebook For those who want to look deeper and discover more about the roots of France its history and culture in an enjoyable read this is the book to choose Designed for easy reference it is the key to unlocking the secrets of France If you want to find about the mysterious Merovingian kings or the results of the last election if you want to know when Chartres cathedral was built or how Napoleon rose to power or when and where Princess Diana died - youll find it all in A Travellers History of France Undoubtedly the best way to prepare for a trip to France is to bone up on some history The Travellers History of France by Robert Cole is concise and gives the essential facts in a very readable form The Independent This little book is a very good idea indeed a running commentary on the complexities triumphs and tragedies of French history from the Lascaux Caves to the Pompidou centre A must for tourists who want to know what happened where The Birmingham Post A brilliant idea from Gloucestershire publishers Windrush a series of books which give a potted history of European countries Ostensibly aimed at holidaymakers the first on France is an excellent introduction for anyone who wants an idiots guide to a history that has so often intertwined with our own The Oxford Times
FICTION
Travels with a Donkey in the Ceacutevennes and the Amateur Emigrant by Robert Louis Stevenson
In 1878 Robert Louis Srtevenson was suffereing from poor health struggling to survive on the income derived from his writings and tormented by his infatuation with Fanny Osbourne a married American woman His response was to embark on a journey through the Cevennes with a donkey Modestine and a notebook which he later transformed into lsquoTravels with a Donkeyrsquo Just a few months after publication Stevenson was off again - this time crossing the Atlantic and the breadth of America in the hope of being re-united with Fanny an experince he recored in the lsquoThe Amateur Emigrantrsquo Both pieces are classics of travel writing which reveal as much about Stevensonrsquos character as the landscape he travels through
MAPS
Many types of maps are available for this region but I recommend those produced by the Institute Geographique Nationale (IGN)
They have two series of walking maps which are suitable for our canoeing needs
The Top25 series is at a scale of 4cm to the km and the Top100 series is at a scale of 1cm to the km
For the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
TOP25 IGN 2640OT Gorges du Tarn et de la JonteCausse MejeanPn des Cevennes (GPS)
TOP100 IGN 162 RodezMillau
TOP25 IGN 2939OT Gorges de lArdecheBourg-Saint-AndeolVallon-Pont-DArc (Gps)
This map doesnrsquot cover the Gardon Ceze Chassezac or the upper Ardeche just the Gorge of the Ardeche
TOP100 IGN 163 AvignonNimes
This map covers all the rivers on the trip
These maps are available to buy online at IGN and at the usual online book shops
I would recommend the TOP100 maps We have all these maps with us on the trips
G R E E N R I V E R
Green River CanoesWe provide Guided Inn-to-Inn Canoeing Holidays to the south of France in the Perigord Lot Ardeche and Tarn regions
We provide hand-crafted vacations to combine a pleasant activity canoeing with an insight into the regional history and natural history whilst enjoying the local foods and wines
All our holidays comprise of mostly canoeing with some (often optional) hiking The itinerary is planned but is flexible enough to be changed on the day if required
All our holidays are guided Our guests will be accompanied on the river and trail by an experienced guide who knows the area and rivers well Our other guide will accompany us in the background by driving our vehicle between lodgings When necessary this vehicle will be transferring our luggage meeting with us for lunch and generally being available as and when needed
Day 8 The Final Day on the Tarn
A short drive will take us down-river to where we will begin our final day on the Tarn We will canoe from Les Vignes to Le Rozier along a section of river which is just as dramatic visually as the first two days but a little more bumpy We will have to concentrate as we ride the Class 2 and 3 rapids as we admire the gorge scenery around us
Once again we will be able to walk to our hotel which is the Doussier
Day 9 A Hike on the Chaos de Montpelier
A 35 minute drive we see us arrive at the small village of La Roque St Marguerite where we will begin our hike up to the Chaos de Montpelier a truly strange outcrop of rocks which have been eroded into exotic shapes In the USA these shapes are known as Hoodoos We will spend several hours wandering numerous trails around this area and experience the fabulous views over the plateau and the gorge
A rather longer drive of about 90 minutes will take us across the bleak plateau landscape known as the Cause Noir back to the Cevennes and the farmhouse at Le Cauvel
Day 10 First Day on the Ardeche River
After a 2 hour drive to Balazuc on the section of the Ardeche called the Defiles we will prepare ourselves for our introduction to the exciting Ardeche river On this first part we will canoe through some small Class 2 rapids and riffles and pass some exotic cliffs and pretty villages Like yesterday we will have to be on our toes as we negotiate some boulder fields in-between some calmer stretches of the river
If we are not sated by that section then after a short drive downstream to Vallon Pont DArc we can paddle a short but interesting section of the river which takes us to a beach near our hotel This section begins at the head of the famous Gorge de LArdeche and takes us canoeing through the legendary Pont DArc a natural stone arch through which the river flows This
section will give us an idea for the spills and thrills to come on our next day on the Ardeche
A short walk (or drive) will take us to our lodgings at the Hotel Belved which is also in the Gorge
Day 11 Canoeing the Gorge LArdeche
Today is the big day when we canoe through the fabulous Gorge LArdeche The Gorge is deep the river is remote and the rapids are exciting Between sections of the river where you can admire the fantastic scenery are Class 2 and Class 3 rapids to grab your attention Most of them are short and sweet and several of them can easily be run several times if you are in the mood
This really is a wonderful stretch of river and we will take all day to enjoy it with a sumptuous beach picnic half-way through the long day
When we are finished we will go for a beer or an ice-cream in the beautiful village of Aigueze which overlooks the final stretch of our days paddling
It is then a short drive to re-visit Olivier and Grace at Le Prieure drsquoOrniols where it all began
Day 12 Departure and Farewells
When we are ready we will drive for an hour to the TGV station at Avignon for our return to Paris and beyond
If time allows if say the train departure is after midday then we can visit the old monastery at Chartreuse de Valbonne or the waterfalls at La Roque-sur-Ceze Or indeed we could spend part of the day in Avignon itself
8 Day Ardeche Trip
This trip removes 4 days from the 12 Day trip described in the previous chapter - Days 6 7 8 and 9 Otherwise the itinerary is the same The whole trip is described fully on our website with a complete schedule map details of hotels and our current prices and schedules You can see many photographs there too
On this trip we canoe on the Gardon the Ceze the Chassezac and the Ardeche rivers in the Ardeche region of south-east France We shall explore the Gorges and Mountains of both the Ardeche and the Cevennes which are still relatively remote even to this day
The rivers in the Ardeche flow eastwards towards the Rhone river which itself then flows south to the Mediterranean The Chassezac is a tributary of the Ardeche Each of these rivers in the Ardeche flow through deep and dramatic gorges in limestone country
The Gardon Ceze and Chassezac are calm rivers with easy paddling through beautiful scenery The Ardeche provides a little more excitement with Class 2 and 3 rapids These rapids are short however and the river provides plenty of easy water between them
In-between the canoeing days we shall hike on the parts of the long-distance trail known as the GR70 - the famous Robert Louis Stevenson Trail The author walked this way more than 100 years ago to see for himself how the Hugenots (Protestants) survived in a largely Catholic country The walk is renowned for the difficulty he experienced in dealing with his donkey Modestine
Of course throughout we shall stay at remote and beautiful places and enjoy the regional cuisine and the local wines
6 Day Tarn Trip
This trip concentrates on the Tarn days on 12 Day trip described in the previous chapter - Days 6 7 8 and 9 With an arrival day and a departure day The whole trip is described fully on our website with a complete schedule map details of hotels and our current prices and schedules You can see many photographs there too
On this trip we plan to arrive and depart via the TGV Railway Station at Montpelier
When we are on the Tarn we canoe in a river which flows westwards towards the Atlantic The Tarn flows through a dramatic limestone gorge and is famously known for its beautifully clear and green waters The first two days on this river provide easy paddling whilst the third day provides more excitement with some rapids to contend with
We shall also walk through the peculiar region called the Chaos of Montpelier which has been eroded into many curious geological shapes
Of course throughout we shall stay at remote and beautiful places and enjoy the regional cuisine and the local wines
Where We Stay
Le Prieure drsquoOrniols
For the first two nights and for our last night we are at the Le Prieure dOrniols just outside the village of Goudargues Situated besides a small castle Olivier and Grace will welcome us and provide delicious meals in the beautiful small stone chambre dhote
Short walks are available either down to the river or up the lane towards the cause Or a five minute drive will take us to the small town of Goudargues
Le Priure drsquoOrniols
Le Carmel Les Vans
On the third night we are at the Le Carmel near the centre of the small town of Les Vans The hotel is a former 19th Century Convent
The hotel has a small swimming pool and we shall be dining in the pretty restaurant
If you are in the mood for an early morning walk then the town is well worth a stroll around
Le Carmel
Le Cauvel
On our fourth and fifth nights we are at Le Cauvel which is a converted farm-house in the heart of the Cevennes not far from Barres-des-Cevennes The place is run by a pair of brothers and their wives and is guided by green and organic principles We also return here on our 9th night
The hotel sits in a setting of beautiful gardens and flowers with a terrace overlooking the valley You can visit the smallholding which produces the vegetables for the kitchen
We can access the Robert Louis Stevenson Trail directly from the farmstead and possibly visit the farm next door to visit the horses
le Cauvel
Auberge de la Cascade
For the sixth and seventh nights we are at the Auberge de la Cascade in St Chely-du-Tarn The hotel comprises almost the whole of this tiny village which sits besides the Tarn over a narrow bridge barred to most traffic
The early morning walk around the village will reveal a tiny chapel underneath the cliffs as well as a small church
The hotel has a small pool for our use and we shall dine in its lovely restaurant overlooking the square
Auberge de Cascade
Hotel Doussiare
For the eighth night we stay at the Hotel DoussiAtildeumlre in Le Rozier The hotel is next to the River Jonte which joins the Tarn and has terraces overlooking the river where we shall dine in the evening
A walk around the village in the evening is well worth the effort as it sits at the junction of two dramatic valleys
Hotel Belved
For the tenth night we stay at the Hotel Belved just south of Vallons Pont DArc in the Ardeche Gorge itself This comfortable place has a small pool for our use and we shall dine here probably on the terrace this evening
After dinner we can walk a short distance down the road to some riverside camp-sites where we may be able to find some entertainment or at least a refreshing beer or two
Hotel BelvedHotel Douiare
What We See
CAVES
The newly opened (2015) Chauvet caves are a replica of those cave discovered in 1994 near the Pont DrsquoArc The replica like that at Lascaux allows visitors to see the ancient cave paintings without damaging the originals b y exposing them to the atmosphere These spectacular paintings are some of the oldest in Europe and some are 40000 years old and feature animals not seen before in other caves
Aven drsquoOrgnac these caves with interesting geological features are in the Ardeche
LE PLUS BEAUX VILLAGE DE FRANCE
Sainte-Enimie on the banks of the Tarn river
Aiguegraveze overlooking the Ardeche river
Balazuc just above the defiles on the Ardeche river
La Roque-sur-Cegraveze on the banks of the Ceze
Montclus on the banks of the Ceze rive
Voguumleacute on the Ardeche river
Canoeing
All the canoes for the trips are provided by us and include paddles and a life-jacket The price is included in the trip
We always prefer open Canadian style canoes which are paddled in tandem - with two people aboard (usually) If you prefer to paddle solo then this can be arranged These canoes are especially suited for the calm water conditions we will be paddling on and are stable and safe They allow plenty of room for yourself and your stuff
From time to time we get clients who wish to paddle a Kayak We can arrange this for you if you prefer but we do stress that the
rivers we canoe do not really warrant the use of a kayak and we feel tandem paddling in a canoe is the way to go
Most of our clients have been canoeing before but we will insist on reviewing safety procedures at the beginning of paddling each day and revise paddling strokes for those who havent paddled for a while or have paddled on lakes rather than rivers for example
For those who have never paddled before their will be plenty of time for lessons as we go These rivers are ideal places for learning
If time and the inclination allows we can also practise other paddling procedures such as Eddy Turns Peeling Out and Ferrying
The clients will not be expected to lift or carry canoes at any time
Hiking
Although the main focus of the trips will be on the canoeing we will have plenty of time for short walks and longer hikes
Where possible we will walk to and from the river although this is not compulsory
In the appropriate season when early mornings are light we can opt to go for a pre-breakfast walk The length and timing of the walk will depend on a consensus reached between those that wish to walk how early we wish to rise and the time of year
Some of the trails we walk on form part of the network of long-distance paths that criss-cross France These are known as Grand Randonees (GR) and are way-marked by a red and white flash We may walk on the GR4 (which goes from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic) passing through the Ardeche We will walk on the GR70 (the famous Robert Louis Stevenson) which
crosses the Cevennes and also possibly the GR6 which traverse the Tarn
Wildlife
On the river we will see plenty of bird-life both on and around the water We will see Ducks and Herons We will also see Kingfishers Wagtails Dippers and Sandpipers We will see Swal lows and Swi f ts and Martins as well as various other birds crossing our path such as Woodpeckers Jays and other crows as well as the
almost invisible songbirds in the tree and hedges Of the raptors we will see the Common Buzzard and possibly an Osprey or a Kestrel
This area of France has a rich variety of Butterflies and we will see many familiar species (if you are from Britain) We will also see some rather more exotic species such as the two types of Swallowtail the Cleopatra the Banded Grayling and if we are lucky some rarer species such as the Large Blue or the Lesser Purple Emperor or Festoons
The river itself will provide m a n y e x a m p l e s o f t h e Dragonfly and Damselfly family The delicate damsels include the Western Demoiselle the White-Legged the Orange F e a t h e r l e g t h e B l u e Featherleg and various Bluets and Bluetails Of the dragons w e m a y s e e t h e S m a l l Pincertail the Yellow Clubtail
the Pronged Clubtail and the Common Clubtai l amongst others
We will also be able to see many flowers especially early in the season before the meadows are cut and these will include several orchids s u c h a s t h e P u r p l e t h e Pyramid the Bee and the Lizard Orchids
Of course we will also see many trees and shrubs along the river course and in the forests We can have some fun trying to identify them
Of the reptiles we will probably see lizards and hear frogs We sometimes see a Grass Snake swimming in the river (harmless) and sometimes a Viper (the only venomous snake which is small 18 inches long and not very poisonous)
The hardest things to see are the mammals We have seen Nutria and Otters on these rivers and weve also glimpsed Red Squirrels and Mink and Martens along the banks On the early morning walks weve encountered Foxes Roe Deer and Fallow Deer Badgers have only been seen at night in the headlights
The European Beaver swims in these rivers and has been seen just once by me on the lower Ardeche
Maps And Books
GUIDE BOOKS for the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
It is an unfortunate fact that the Ardeche and Tarn areas of France are not served particularly well by guide books A number of walking books and guides are available and no doubt the regions are mentioned in more general guide books to the whole of France If you do discover something then please let us know
Cevennes and Grand Causses (Crossbill Guides) by Dirk Hillbers
The Ceacutevennes National Park together with its twin the Parc Naturel des Grands Causses are among the richest natural areas in France Against a stunning background of steep cliffs extensive forests and open steppe-like plateaux the visitor can discover an exceptional wealth of flora and fauna The hundreds of kilometres of trails and tracks make it easy to explore the area with its wealth of orchids and other wildflowers its superb range of birds and butterflies The traditional medieval villages amidst the impressive mountainous country provide a relaxed starting point for exploration In other words the Ceacutevennes has everything a naturalist could wish for This nature guide is part of the renowned Crossbill Guides series for nature enthusiasts The Crossbill Guides combine interesting and insightful accounts with up-to-date and practical tourist information and observation tips Detailed descriptions of hiking trails and car routes are conveniently linked to information on everything you want to know about the what why and wherefores of the Ceacutevennes and Grands Causses splendid nature
HISTORY
The Discovery of France A Historical Geography from the Revolution to the First World War by Graham Robb
Illuminating engrossing and full of surprises The Discovery of France is a literary exploration of a country few will recognise from maps and migration to magic language and landscape itrsquos a book that reveals the real past of France to tell the whole story and history of this remarkable nation rsquoWith gloriously apposite facts and an abundance of quirky anecdotes and thumbnail sketches of people places and customs Robb on brilliant form takes us on a stunning journey through the historical landscape of Francersquo Independent lsquoCertain books strain the patience of those close to you How many times can you demand Look at this Can you imagine Did you know that Without actually handing over the volume This is such a bookrsquo Mail on Sunday rsquoAn extraordinary journey of discovery that will delight even the most indolent armchair travellerrsquo Daily Telegraph
A Concise History of France by Roger Price
This book provides a clear and well-informed guide to French history from the emergence of a strong state in the Ile-de-France in the early middle ages to the trente glorieuses following the Second World War and the Mitterrand presidency As such it provides the most up-to-date and comprehensive study of French history available Among the books central themes are the relationship between state and society the impact of war and such crucial questions as who possessed political power how this power was used in whose interests and with what consequences Roger Price examines the role of leading figures including Philip Augustus Henri IV Louis XIV the two Napoleans Clemenceau and De Gaulle as well as the lives of ordinary people A rich entertaining guide for the student and general reader
A Travellerrsquos History of France by Robert Cole
The Travellers History series is designed for the traveller who feels they need more historical background information on the country in which they are staying than can be found in an ordinary guidebook For those who want to look deeper and discover more about the roots of France its history and culture in an enjoyable read this is the book to choose Designed for easy reference it is the key to unlocking the secrets of France If you want to find about the mysterious Merovingian kings or the results of the last election if you want to know when Chartres cathedral was built or how Napoleon rose to power or when and where Princess Diana died - youll find it all in A Travellers History of France Undoubtedly the best way to prepare for a trip to France is to bone up on some history The Travellers History of France by Robert Cole is concise and gives the essential facts in a very readable form The Independent This little book is a very good idea indeed a running commentary on the complexities triumphs and tragedies of French history from the Lascaux Caves to the Pompidou centre A must for tourists who want to know what happened where The Birmingham Post A brilliant idea from Gloucestershire publishers Windrush a series of books which give a potted history of European countries Ostensibly aimed at holidaymakers the first on France is an excellent introduction for anyone who wants an idiots guide to a history that has so often intertwined with our own The Oxford Times
FICTION
Travels with a Donkey in the Ceacutevennes and the Amateur Emigrant by Robert Louis Stevenson
In 1878 Robert Louis Srtevenson was suffereing from poor health struggling to survive on the income derived from his writings and tormented by his infatuation with Fanny Osbourne a married American woman His response was to embark on a journey through the Cevennes with a donkey Modestine and a notebook which he later transformed into lsquoTravels with a Donkeyrsquo Just a few months after publication Stevenson was off again - this time crossing the Atlantic and the breadth of America in the hope of being re-united with Fanny an experince he recored in the lsquoThe Amateur Emigrantrsquo Both pieces are classics of travel writing which reveal as much about Stevensonrsquos character as the landscape he travels through
MAPS
Many types of maps are available for this region but I recommend those produced by the Institute Geographique Nationale (IGN)
They have two series of walking maps which are suitable for our canoeing needs
The Top25 series is at a scale of 4cm to the km and the Top100 series is at a scale of 1cm to the km
For the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
TOP25 IGN 2640OT Gorges du Tarn et de la JonteCausse MejeanPn des Cevennes (GPS)
TOP100 IGN 162 RodezMillau
TOP25 IGN 2939OT Gorges de lArdecheBourg-Saint-AndeolVallon-Pont-DArc (Gps)
This map doesnrsquot cover the Gardon Ceze Chassezac or the upper Ardeche just the Gorge of the Ardeche
TOP100 IGN 163 AvignonNimes
This map covers all the rivers on the trip
These maps are available to buy online at IGN and at the usual online book shops
I would recommend the TOP100 maps We have all these maps with us on the trips
G R E E N R I V E R
Green River CanoesWe provide Guided Inn-to-Inn Canoeing Holidays to the south of France in the Perigord Lot Ardeche and Tarn regions
We provide hand-crafted vacations to combine a pleasant activity canoeing with an insight into the regional history and natural history whilst enjoying the local foods and wines
All our holidays comprise of mostly canoeing with some (often optional) hiking The itinerary is planned but is flexible enough to be changed on the day if required
All our holidays are guided Our guests will be accompanied on the river and trail by an experienced guide who knows the area and rivers well Our other guide will accompany us in the background by driving our vehicle between lodgings When necessary this vehicle will be transferring our luggage meeting with us for lunch and generally being available as and when needed
Day 9 A Hike on the Chaos de Montpelier
A 35 minute drive we see us arrive at the small village of La Roque St Marguerite where we will begin our hike up to the Chaos de Montpelier a truly strange outcrop of rocks which have been eroded into exotic shapes In the USA these shapes are known as Hoodoos We will spend several hours wandering numerous trails around this area and experience the fabulous views over the plateau and the gorge
A rather longer drive of about 90 minutes will take us across the bleak plateau landscape known as the Cause Noir back to the Cevennes and the farmhouse at Le Cauvel
Day 10 First Day on the Ardeche River
After a 2 hour drive to Balazuc on the section of the Ardeche called the Defiles we will prepare ourselves for our introduction to the exciting Ardeche river On this first part we will canoe through some small Class 2 rapids and riffles and pass some exotic cliffs and pretty villages Like yesterday we will have to be on our toes as we negotiate some boulder fields in-between some calmer stretches of the river
If we are not sated by that section then after a short drive downstream to Vallon Pont DArc we can paddle a short but interesting section of the river which takes us to a beach near our hotel This section begins at the head of the famous Gorge de LArdeche and takes us canoeing through the legendary Pont DArc a natural stone arch through which the river flows This
section will give us an idea for the spills and thrills to come on our next day on the Ardeche
A short walk (or drive) will take us to our lodgings at the Hotel Belved which is also in the Gorge
Day 11 Canoeing the Gorge LArdeche
Today is the big day when we canoe through the fabulous Gorge LArdeche The Gorge is deep the river is remote and the rapids are exciting Between sections of the river where you can admire the fantastic scenery are Class 2 and Class 3 rapids to grab your attention Most of them are short and sweet and several of them can easily be run several times if you are in the mood
This really is a wonderful stretch of river and we will take all day to enjoy it with a sumptuous beach picnic half-way through the long day
When we are finished we will go for a beer or an ice-cream in the beautiful village of Aigueze which overlooks the final stretch of our days paddling
It is then a short drive to re-visit Olivier and Grace at Le Prieure drsquoOrniols where it all began
Day 12 Departure and Farewells
When we are ready we will drive for an hour to the TGV station at Avignon for our return to Paris and beyond
If time allows if say the train departure is after midday then we can visit the old monastery at Chartreuse de Valbonne or the waterfalls at La Roque-sur-Ceze Or indeed we could spend part of the day in Avignon itself
8 Day Ardeche Trip
This trip removes 4 days from the 12 Day trip described in the previous chapter - Days 6 7 8 and 9 Otherwise the itinerary is the same The whole trip is described fully on our website with a complete schedule map details of hotels and our current prices and schedules You can see many photographs there too
On this trip we canoe on the Gardon the Ceze the Chassezac and the Ardeche rivers in the Ardeche region of south-east France We shall explore the Gorges and Mountains of both the Ardeche and the Cevennes which are still relatively remote even to this day
The rivers in the Ardeche flow eastwards towards the Rhone river which itself then flows south to the Mediterranean The Chassezac is a tributary of the Ardeche Each of these rivers in the Ardeche flow through deep and dramatic gorges in limestone country
The Gardon Ceze and Chassezac are calm rivers with easy paddling through beautiful scenery The Ardeche provides a little more excitement with Class 2 and 3 rapids These rapids are short however and the river provides plenty of easy water between them
In-between the canoeing days we shall hike on the parts of the long-distance trail known as the GR70 - the famous Robert Louis Stevenson Trail The author walked this way more than 100 years ago to see for himself how the Hugenots (Protestants) survived in a largely Catholic country The walk is renowned for the difficulty he experienced in dealing with his donkey Modestine
Of course throughout we shall stay at remote and beautiful places and enjoy the regional cuisine and the local wines
6 Day Tarn Trip
This trip concentrates on the Tarn days on 12 Day trip described in the previous chapter - Days 6 7 8 and 9 With an arrival day and a departure day The whole trip is described fully on our website with a complete schedule map details of hotels and our current prices and schedules You can see many photographs there too
On this trip we plan to arrive and depart via the TGV Railway Station at Montpelier
When we are on the Tarn we canoe in a river which flows westwards towards the Atlantic The Tarn flows through a dramatic limestone gorge and is famously known for its beautifully clear and green waters The first two days on this river provide easy paddling whilst the third day provides more excitement with some rapids to contend with
We shall also walk through the peculiar region called the Chaos of Montpelier which has been eroded into many curious geological shapes
Of course throughout we shall stay at remote and beautiful places and enjoy the regional cuisine and the local wines
Where We Stay
Le Prieure drsquoOrniols
For the first two nights and for our last night we are at the Le Prieure dOrniols just outside the village of Goudargues Situated besides a small castle Olivier and Grace will welcome us and provide delicious meals in the beautiful small stone chambre dhote
Short walks are available either down to the river or up the lane towards the cause Or a five minute drive will take us to the small town of Goudargues
Le Priure drsquoOrniols
Le Carmel Les Vans
On the third night we are at the Le Carmel near the centre of the small town of Les Vans The hotel is a former 19th Century Convent
The hotel has a small swimming pool and we shall be dining in the pretty restaurant
If you are in the mood for an early morning walk then the town is well worth a stroll around
Le Carmel
Le Cauvel
On our fourth and fifth nights we are at Le Cauvel which is a converted farm-house in the heart of the Cevennes not far from Barres-des-Cevennes The place is run by a pair of brothers and their wives and is guided by green and organic principles We also return here on our 9th night
The hotel sits in a setting of beautiful gardens and flowers with a terrace overlooking the valley You can visit the smallholding which produces the vegetables for the kitchen
We can access the Robert Louis Stevenson Trail directly from the farmstead and possibly visit the farm next door to visit the horses
le Cauvel
Auberge de la Cascade
For the sixth and seventh nights we are at the Auberge de la Cascade in St Chely-du-Tarn The hotel comprises almost the whole of this tiny village which sits besides the Tarn over a narrow bridge barred to most traffic
The early morning walk around the village will reveal a tiny chapel underneath the cliffs as well as a small church
The hotel has a small pool for our use and we shall dine in its lovely restaurant overlooking the square
Auberge de Cascade
Hotel Doussiare
For the eighth night we stay at the Hotel DoussiAtildeumlre in Le Rozier The hotel is next to the River Jonte which joins the Tarn and has terraces overlooking the river where we shall dine in the evening
A walk around the village in the evening is well worth the effort as it sits at the junction of two dramatic valleys
Hotel Belved
For the tenth night we stay at the Hotel Belved just south of Vallons Pont DArc in the Ardeche Gorge itself This comfortable place has a small pool for our use and we shall dine here probably on the terrace this evening
After dinner we can walk a short distance down the road to some riverside camp-sites where we may be able to find some entertainment or at least a refreshing beer or two
Hotel BelvedHotel Douiare
What We See
CAVES
The newly opened (2015) Chauvet caves are a replica of those cave discovered in 1994 near the Pont DrsquoArc The replica like that at Lascaux allows visitors to see the ancient cave paintings without damaging the originals b y exposing them to the atmosphere These spectacular paintings are some of the oldest in Europe and some are 40000 years old and feature animals not seen before in other caves
Aven drsquoOrgnac these caves with interesting geological features are in the Ardeche
LE PLUS BEAUX VILLAGE DE FRANCE
Sainte-Enimie on the banks of the Tarn river
Aiguegraveze overlooking the Ardeche river
Balazuc just above the defiles on the Ardeche river
La Roque-sur-Cegraveze on the banks of the Ceze
Montclus on the banks of the Ceze rive
Voguumleacute on the Ardeche river
Canoeing
All the canoes for the trips are provided by us and include paddles and a life-jacket The price is included in the trip
We always prefer open Canadian style canoes which are paddled in tandem - with two people aboard (usually) If you prefer to paddle solo then this can be arranged These canoes are especially suited for the calm water conditions we will be paddling on and are stable and safe They allow plenty of room for yourself and your stuff
From time to time we get clients who wish to paddle a Kayak We can arrange this for you if you prefer but we do stress that the
rivers we canoe do not really warrant the use of a kayak and we feel tandem paddling in a canoe is the way to go
Most of our clients have been canoeing before but we will insist on reviewing safety procedures at the beginning of paddling each day and revise paddling strokes for those who havent paddled for a while or have paddled on lakes rather than rivers for example
For those who have never paddled before their will be plenty of time for lessons as we go These rivers are ideal places for learning
If time and the inclination allows we can also practise other paddling procedures such as Eddy Turns Peeling Out and Ferrying
The clients will not be expected to lift or carry canoes at any time
Hiking
Although the main focus of the trips will be on the canoeing we will have plenty of time for short walks and longer hikes
Where possible we will walk to and from the river although this is not compulsory
In the appropriate season when early mornings are light we can opt to go for a pre-breakfast walk The length and timing of the walk will depend on a consensus reached between those that wish to walk how early we wish to rise and the time of year
Some of the trails we walk on form part of the network of long-distance paths that criss-cross France These are known as Grand Randonees (GR) and are way-marked by a red and white flash We may walk on the GR4 (which goes from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic) passing through the Ardeche We will walk on the GR70 (the famous Robert Louis Stevenson) which
crosses the Cevennes and also possibly the GR6 which traverse the Tarn
Wildlife
On the river we will see plenty of bird-life both on and around the water We will see Ducks and Herons We will also see Kingfishers Wagtails Dippers and Sandpipers We will see Swal lows and Swi f ts and Martins as well as various other birds crossing our path such as Woodpeckers Jays and other crows as well as the
almost invisible songbirds in the tree and hedges Of the raptors we will see the Common Buzzard and possibly an Osprey or a Kestrel
This area of France has a rich variety of Butterflies and we will see many familiar species (if you are from Britain) We will also see some rather more exotic species such as the two types of Swallowtail the Cleopatra the Banded Grayling and if we are lucky some rarer species such as the Large Blue or the Lesser Purple Emperor or Festoons
The river itself will provide m a n y e x a m p l e s o f t h e Dragonfly and Damselfly family The delicate damsels include the Western Demoiselle the White-Legged the Orange F e a t h e r l e g t h e B l u e Featherleg and various Bluets and Bluetails Of the dragons w e m a y s e e t h e S m a l l Pincertail the Yellow Clubtail
the Pronged Clubtail and the Common Clubtai l amongst others
We will also be able to see many flowers especially early in the season before the meadows are cut and these will include several orchids s u c h a s t h e P u r p l e t h e Pyramid the Bee and the Lizard Orchids
Of course we will also see many trees and shrubs along the river course and in the forests We can have some fun trying to identify them
Of the reptiles we will probably see lizards and hear frogs We sometimes see a Grass Snake swimming in the river (harmless) and sometimes a Viper (the only venomous snake which is small 18 inches long and not very poisonous)
The hardest things to see are the mammals We have seen Nutria and Otters on these rivers and weve also glimpsed Red Squirrels and Mink and Martens along the banks On the early morning walks weve encountered Foxes Roe Deer and Fallow Deer Badgers have only been seen at night in the headlights
The European Beaver swims in these rivers and has been seen just once by me on the lower Ardeche
Maps And Books
GUIDE BOOKS for the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
It is an unfortunate fact that the Ardeche and Tarn areas of France are not served particularly well by guide books A number of walking books and guides are available and no doubt the regions are mentioned in more general guide books to the whole of France If you do discover something then please let us know
Cevennes and Grand Causses (Crossbill Guides) by Dirk Hillbers
The Ceacutevennes National Park together with its twin the Parc Naturel des Grands Causses are among the richest natural areas in France Against a stunning background of steep cliffs extensive forests and open steppe-like plateaux the visitor can discover an exceptional wealth of flora and fauna The hundreds of kilometres of trails and tracks make it easy to explore the area with its wealth of orchids and other wildflowers its superb range of birds and butterflies The traditional medieval villages amidst the impressive mountainous country provide a relaxed starting point for exploration In other words the Ceacutevennes has everything a naturalist could wish for This nature guide is part of the renowned Crossbill Guides series for nature enthusiasts The Crossbill Guides combine interesting and insightful accounts with up-to-date and practical tourist information and observation tips Detailed descriptions of hiking trails and car routes are conveniently linked to information on everything you want to know about the what why and wherefores of the Ceacutevennes and Grands Causses splendid nature
HISTORY
The Discovery of France A Historical Geography from the Revolution to the First World War by Graham Robb
Illuminating engrossing and full of surprises The Discovery of France is a literary exploration of a country few will recognise from maps and migration to magic language and landscape itrsquos a book that reveals the real past of France to tell the whole story and history of this remarkable nation rsquoWith gloriously apposite facts and an abundance of quirky anecdotes and thumbnail sketches of people places and customs Robb on brilliant form takes us on a stunning journey through the historical landscape of Francersquo Independent lsquoCertain books strain the patience of those close to you How many times can you demand Look at this Can you imagine Did you know that Without actually handing over the volume This is such a bookrsquo Mail on Sunday rsquoAn extraordinary journey of discovery that will delight even the most indolent armchair travellerrsquo Daily Telegraph
A Concise History of France by Roger Price
This book provides a clear and well-informed guide to French history from the emergence of a strong state in the Ile-de-France in the early middle ages to the trente glorieuses following the Second World War and the Mitterrand presidency As such it provides the most up-to-date and comprehensive study of French history available Among the books central themes are the relationship between state and society the impact of war and such crucial questions as who possessed political power how this power was used in whose interests and with what consequences Roger Price examines the role of leading figures including Philip Augustus Henri IV Louis XIV the two Napoleans Clemenceau and De Gaulle as well as the lives of ordinary people A rich entertaining guide for the student and general reader
A Travellerrsquos History of France by Robert Cole
The Travellers History series is designed for the traveller who feels they need more historical background information on the country in which they are staying than can be found in an ordinary guidebook For those who want to look deeper and discover more about the roots of France its history and culture in an enjoyable read this is the book to choose Designed for easy reference it is the key to unlocking the secrets of France If you want to find about the mysterious Merovingian kings or the results of the last election if you want to know when Chartres cathedral was built or how Napoleon rose to power or when and where Princess Diana died - youll find it all in A Travellers History of France Undoubtedly the best way to prepare for a trip to France is to bone up on some history The Travellers History of France by Robert Cole is concise and gives the essential facts in a very readable form The Independent This little book is a very good idea indeed a running commentary on the complexities triumphs and tragedies of French history from the Lascaux Caves to the Pompidou centre A must for tourists who want to know what happened where The Birmingham Post A brilliant idea from Gloucestershire publishers Windrush a series of books which give a potted history of European countries Ostensibly aimed at holidaymakers the first on France is an excellent introduction for anyone who wants an idiots guide to a history that has so often intertwined with our own The Oxford Times
FICTION
Travels with a Donkey in the Ceacutevennes and the Amateur Emigrant by Robert Louis Stevenson
In 1878 Robert Louis Srtevenson was suffereing from poor health struggling to survive on the income derived from his writings and tormented by his infatuation with Fanny Osbourne a married American woman His response was to embark on a journey through the Cevennes with a donkey Modestine and a notebook which he later transformed into lsquoTravels with a Donkeyrsquo Just a few months after publication Stevenson was off again - this time crossing the Atlantic and the breadth of America in the hope of being re-united with Fanny an experince he recored in the lsquoThe Amateur Emigrantrsquo Both pieces are classics of travel writing which reveal as much about Stevensonrsquos character as the landscape he travels through
MAPS
Many types of maps are available for this region but I recommend those produced by the Institute Geographique Nationale (IGN)
They have two series of walking maps which are suitable for our canoeing needs
The Top25 series is at a scale of 4cm to the km and the Top100 series is at a scale of 1cm to the km
For the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
TOP25 IGN 2640OT Gorges du Tarn et de la JonteCausse MejeanPn des Cevennes (GPS)
TOP100 IGN 162 RodezMillau
TOP25 IGN 2939OT Gorges de lArdecheBourg-Saint-AndeolVallon-Pont-DArc (Gps)
This map doesnrsquot cover the Gardon Ceze Chassezac or the upper Ardeche just the Gorge of the Ardeche
TOP100 IGN 163 AvignonNimes
This map covers all the rivers on the trip
These maps are available to buy online at IGN and at the usual online book shops
I would recommend the TOP100 maps We have all these maps with us on the trips
G R E E N R I V E R
Green River CanoesWe provide Guided Inn-to-Inn Canoeing Holidays to the south of France in the Perigord Lot Ardeche and Tarn regions
We provide hand-crafted vacations to combine a pleasant activity canoeing with an insight into the regional history and natural history whilst enjoying the local foods and wines
All our holidays comprise of mostly canoeing with some (often optional) hiking The itinerary is planned but is flexible enough to be changed on the day if required
All our holidays are guided Our guests will be accompanied on the river and trail by an experienced guide who knows the area and rivers well Our other guide will accompany us in the background by driving our vehicle between lodgings When necessary this vehicle will be transferring our luggage meeting with us for lunch and generally being available as and when needed
Day 10 First Day on the Ardeche River
After a 2 hour drive to Balazuc on the section of the Ardeche called the Defiles we will prepare ourselves for our introduction to the exciting Ardeche river On this first part we will canoe through some small Class 2 rapids and riffles and pass some exotic cliffs and pretty villages Like yesterday we will have to be on our toes as we negotiate some boulder fields in-between some calmer stretches of the river
If we are not sated by that section then after a short drive downstream to Vallon Pont DArc we can paddle a short but interesting section of the river which takes us to a beach near our hotel This section begins at the head of the famous Gorge de LArdeche and takes us canoeing through the legendary Pont DArc a natural stone arch through which the river flows This
section will give us an idea for the spills and thrills to come on our next day on the Ardeche
A short walk (or drive) will take us to our lodgings at the Hotel Belved which is also in the Gorge
Day 11 Canoeing the Gorge LArdeche
Today is the big day when we canoe through the fabulous Gorge LArdeche The Gorge is deep the river is remote and the rapids are exciting Between sections of the river where you can admire the fantastic scenery are Class 2 and Class 3 rapids to grab your attention Most of them are short and sweet and several of them can easily be run several times if you are in the mood
This really is a wonderful stretch of river and we will take all day to enjoy it with a sumptuous beach picnic half-way through the long day
When we are finished we will go for a beer or an ice-cream in the beautiful village of Aigueze which overlooks the final stretch of our days paddling
It is then a short drive to re-visit Olivier and Grace at Le Prieure drsquoOrniols where it all began
Day 12 Departure and Farewells
When we are ready we will drive for an hour to the TGV station at Avignon for our return to Paris and beyond
If time allows if say the train departure is after midday then we can visit the old monastery at Chartreuse de Valbonne or the waterfalls at La Roque-sur-Ceze Or indeed we could spend part of the day in Avignon itself
8 Day Ardeche Trip
This trip removes 4 days from the 12 Day trip described in the previous chapter - Days 6 7 8 and 9 Otherwise the itinerary is the same The whole trip is described fully on our website with a complete schedule map details of hotels and our current prices and schedules You can see many photographs there too
On this trip we canoe on the Gardon the Ceze the Chassezac and the Ardeche rivers in the Ardeche region of south-east France We shall explore the Gorges and Mountains of both the Ardeche and the Cevennes which are still relatively remote even to this day
The rivers in the Ardeche flow eastwards towards the Rhone river which itself then flows south to the Mediterranean The Chassezac is a tributary of the Ardeche Each of these rivers in the Ardeche flow through deep and dramatic gorges in limestone country
The Gardon Ceze and Chassezac are calm rivers with easy paddling through beautiful scenery The Ardeche provides a little more excitement with Class 2 and 3 rapids These rapids are short however and the river provides plenty of easy water between them
In-between the canoeing days we shall hike on the parts of the long-distance trail known as the GR70 - the famous Robert Louis Stevenson Trail The author walked this way more than 100 years ago to see for himself how the Hugenots (Protestants) survived in a largely Catholic country The walk is renowned for the difficulty he experienced in dealing with his donkey Modestine
Of course throughout we shall stay at remote and beautiful places and enjoy the regional cuisine and the local wines
6 Day Tarn Trip
This trip concentrates on the Tarn days on 12 Day trip described in the previous chapter - Days 6 7 8 and 9 With an arrival day and a departure day The whole trip is described fully on our website with a complete schedule map details of hotels and our current prices and schedules You can see many photographs there too
On this trip we plan to arrive and depart via the TGV Railway Station at Montpelier
When we are on the Tarn we canoe in a river which flows westwards towards the Atlantic The Tarn flows through a dramatic limestone gorge and is famously known for its beautifully clear and green waters The first two days on this river provide easy paddling whilst the third day provides more excitement with some rapids to contend with
We shall also walk through the peculiar region called the Chaos of Montpelier which has been eroded into many curious geological shapes
Of course throughout we shall stay at remote and beautiful places and enjoy the regional cuisine and the local wines
Where We Stay
Le Prieure drsquoOrniols
For the first two nights and for our last night we are at the Le Prieure dOrniols just outside the village of Goudargues Situated besides a small castle Olivier and Grace will welcome us and provide delicious meals in the beautiful small stone chambre dhote
Short walks are available either down to the river or up the lane towards the cause Or a five minute drive will take us to the small town of Goudargues
Le Priure drsquoOrniols
Le Carmel Les Vans
On the third night we are at the Le Carmel near the centre of the small town of Les Vans The hotel is a former 19th Century Convent
The hotel has a small swimming pool and we shall be dining in the pretty restaurant
If you are in the mood for an early morning walk then the town is well worth a stroll around
Le Carmel
Le Cauvel
On our fourth and fifth nights we are at Le Cauvel which is a converted farm-house in the heart of the Cevennes not far from Barres-des-Cevennes The place is run by a pair of brothers and their wives and is guided by green and organic principles We also return here on our 9th night
The hotel sits in a setting of beautiful gardens and flowers with a terrace overlooking the valley You can visit the smallholding which produces the vegetables for the kitchen
We can access the Robert Louis Stevenson Trail directly from the farmstead and possibly visit the farm next door to visit the horses
le Cauvel
Auberge de la Cascade
For the sixth and seventh nights we are at the Auberge de la Cascade in St Chely-du-Tarn The hotel comprises almost the whole of this tiny village which sits besides the Tarn over a narrow bridge barred to most traffic
The early morning walk around the village will reveal a tiny chapel underneath the cliffs as well as a small church
The hotel has a small pool for our use and we shall dine in its lovely restaurant overlooking the square
Auberge de Cascade
Hotel Doussiare
For the eighth night we stay at the Hotel DoussiAtildeumlre in Le Rozier The hotel is next to the River Jonte which joins the Tarn and has terraces overlooking the river where we shall dine in the evening
A walk around the village in the evening is well worth the effort as it sits at the junction of two dramatic valleys
Hotel Belved
For the tenth night we stay at the Hotel Belved just south of Vallons Pont DArc in the Ardeche Gorge itself This comfortable place has a small pool for our use and we shall dine here probably on the terrace this evening
After dinner we can walk a short distance down the road to some riverside camp-sites where we may be able to find some entertainment or at least a refreshing beer or two
Hotel BelvedHotel Douiare
What We See
CAVES
The newly opened (2015) Chauvet caves are a replica of those cave discovered in 1994 near the Pont DrsquoArc The replica like that at Lascaux allows visitors to see the ancient cave paintings without damaging the originals b y exposing them to the atmosphere These spectacular paintings are some of the oldest in Europe and some are 40000 years old and feature animals not seen before in other caves
Aven drsquoOrgnac these caves with interesting geological features are in the Ardeche
LE PLUS BEAUX VILLAGE DE FRANCE
Sainte-Enimie on the banks of the Tarn river
Aiguegraveze overlooking the Ardeche river
Balazuc just above the defiles on the Ardeche river
La Roque-sur-Cegraveze on the banks of the Ceze
Montclus on the banks of the Ceze rive
Voguumleacute on the Ardeche river
Canoeing
All the canoes for the trips are provided by us and include paddles and a life-jacket The price is included in the trip
We always prefer open Canadian style canoes which are paddled in tandem - with two people aboard (usually) If you prefer to paddle solo then this can be arranged These canoes are especially suited for the calm water conditions we will be paddling on and are stable and safe They allow plenty of room for yourself and your stuff
From time to time we get clients who wish to paddle a Kayak We can arrange this for you if you prefer but we do stress that the
rivers we canoe do not really warrant the use of a kayak and we feel tandem paddling in a canoe is the way to go
Most of our clients have been canoeing before but we will insist on reviewing safety procedures at the beginning of paddling each day and revise paddling strokes for those who havent paddled for a while or have paddled on lakes rather than rivers for example
For those who have never paddled before their will be plenty of time for lessons as we go These rivers are ideal places for learning
If time and the inclination allows we can also practise other paddling procedures such as Eddy Turns Peeling Out and Ferrying
The clients will not be expected to lift or carry canoes at any time
Hiking
Although the main focus of the trips will be on the canoeing we will have plenty of time for short walks and longer hikes
Where possible we will walk to and from the river although this is not compulsory
In the appropriate season when early mornings are light we can opt to go for a pre-breakfast walk The length and timing of the walk will depend on a consensus reached between those that wish to walk how early we wish to rise and the time of year
Some of the trails we walk on form part of the network of long-distance paths that criss-cross France These are known as Grand Randonees (GR) and are way-marked by a red and white flash We may walk on the GR4 (which goes from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic) passing through the Ardeche We will walk on the GR70 (the famous Robert Louis Stevenson) which
crosses the Cevennes and also possibly the GR6 which traverse the Tarn
Wildlife
On the river we will see plenty of bird-life both on and around the water We will see Ducks and Herons We will also see Kingfishers Wagtails Dippers and Sandpipers We will see Swal lows and Swi f ts and Martins as well as various other birds crossing our path such as Woodpeckers Jays and other crows as well as the
almost invisible songbirds in the tree and hedges Of the raptors we will see the Common Buzzard and possibly an Osprey or a Kestrel
This area of France has a rich variety of Butterflies and we will see many familiar species (if you are from Britain) We will also see some rather more exotic species such as the two types of Swallowtail the Cleopatra the Banded Grayling and if we are lucky some rarer species such as the Large Blue or the Lesser Purple Emperor or Festoons
The river itself will provide m a n y e x a m p l e s o f t h e Dragonfly and Damselfly family The delicate damsels include the Western Demoiselle the White-Legged the Orange F e a t h e r l e g t h e B l u e Featherleg and various Bluets and Bluetails Of the dragons w e m a y s e e t h e S m a l l Pincertail the Yellow Clubtail
the Pronged Clubtail and the Common Clubtai l amongst others
We will also be able to see many flowers especially early in the season before the meadows are cut and these will include several orchids s u c h a s t h e P u r p l e t h e Pyramid the Bee and the Lizard Orchids
Of course we will also see many trees and shrubs along the river course and in the forests We can have some fun trying to identify them
Of the reptiles we will probably see lizards and hear frogs We sometimes see a Grass Snake swimming in the river (harmless) and sometimes a Viper (the only venomous snake which is small 18 inches long and not very poisonous)
The hardest things to see are the mammals We have seen Nutria and Otters on these rivers and weve also glimpsed Red Squirrels and Mink and Martens along the banks On the early morning walks weve encountered Foxes Roe Deer and Fallow Deer Badgers have only been seen at night in the headlights
The European Beaver swims in these rivers and has been seen just once by me on the lower Ardeche
Maps And Books
GUIDE BOOKS for the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
It is an unfortunate fact that the Ardeche and Tarn areas of France are not served particularly well by guide books A number of walking books and guides are available and no doubt the regions are mentioned in more general guide books to the whole of France If you do discover something then please let us know
Cevennes and Grand Causses (Crossbill Guides) by Dirk Hillbers
The Ceacutevennes National Park together with its twin the Parc Naturel des Grands Causses are among the richest natural areas in France Against a stunning background of steep cliffs extensive forests and open steppe-like plateaux the visitor can discover an exceptional wealth of flora and fauna The hundreds of kilometres of trails and tracks make it easy to explore the area with its wealth of orchids and other wildflowers its superb range of birds and butterflies The traditional medieval villages amidst the impressive mountainous country provide a relaxed starting point for exploration In other words the Ceacutevennes has everything a naturalist could wish for This nature guide is part of the renowned Crossbill Guides series for nature enthusiasts The Crossbill Guides combine interesting and insightful accounts with up-to-date and practical tourist information and observation tips Detailed descriptions of hiking trails and car routes are conveniently linked to information on everything you want to know about the what why and wherefores of the Ceacutevennes and Grands Causses splendid nature
HISTORY
The Discovery of France A Historical Geography from the Revolution to the First World War by Graham Robb
Illuminating engrossing and full of surprises The Discovery of France is a literary exploration of a country few will recognise from maps and migration to magic language and landscape itrsquos a book that reveals the real past of France to tell the whole story and history of this remarkable nation rsquoWith gloriously apposite facts and an abundance of quirky anecdotes and thumbnail sketches of people places and customs Robb on brilliant form takes us on a stunning journey through the historical landscape of Francersquo Independent lsquoCertain books strain the patience of those close to you How many times can you demand Look at this Can you imagine Did you know that Without actually handing over the volume This is such a bookrsquo Mail on Sunday rsquoAn extraordinary journey of discovery that will delight even the most indolent armchair travellerrsquo Daily Telegraph
A Concise History of France by Roger Price
This book provides a clear and well-informed guide to French history from the emergence of a strong state in the Ile-de-France in the early middle ages to the trente glorieuses following the Second World War and the Mitterrand presidency As such it provides the most up-to-date and comprehensive study of French history available Among the books central themes are the relationship between state and society the impact of war and such crucial questions as who possessed political power how this power was used in whose interests and with what consequences Roger Price examines the role of leading figures including Philip Augustus Henri IV Louis XIV the two Napoleans Clemenceau and De Gaulle as well as the lives of ordinary people A rich entertaining guide for the student and general reader
A Travellerrsquos History of France by Robert Cole
The Travellers History series is designed for the traveller who feels they need more historical background information on the country in which they are staying than can be found in an ordinary guidebook For those who want to look deeper and discover more about the roots of France its history and culture in an enjoyable read this is the book to choose Designed for easy reference it is the key to unlocking the secrets of France If you want to find about the mysterious Merovingian kings or the results of the last election if you want to know when Chartres cathedral was built or how Napoleon rose to power or when and where Princess Diana died - youll find it all in A Travellers History of France Undoubtedly the best way to prepare for a trip to France is to bone up on some history The Travellers History of France by Robert Cole is concise and gives the essential facts in a very readable form The Independent This little book is a very good idea indeed a running commentary on the complexities triumphs and tragedies of French history from the Lascaux Caves to the Pompidou centre A must for tourists who want to know what happened where The Birmingham Post A brilliant idea from Gloucestershire publishers Windrush a series of books which give a potted history of European countries Ostensibly aimed at holidaymakers the first on France is an excellent introduction for anyone who wants an idiots guide to a history that has so often intertwined with our own The Oxford Times
FICTION
Travels with a Donkey in the Ceacutevennes and the Amateur Emigrant by Robert Louis Stevenson
In 1878 Robert Louis Srtevenson was suffereing from poor health struggling to survive on the income derived from his writings and tormented by his infatuation with Fanny Osbourne a married American woman His response was to embark on a journey through the Cevennes with a donkey Modestine and a notebook which he later transformed into lsquoTravels with a Donkeyrsquo Just a few months after publication Stevenson was off again - this time crossing the Atlantic and the breadth of America in the hope of being re-united with Fanny an experince he recored in the lsquoThe Amateur Emigrantrsquo Both pieces are classics of travel writing which reveal as much about Stevensonrsquos character as the landscape he travels through
MAPS
Many types of maps are available for this region but I recommend those produced by the Institute Geographique Nationale (IGN)
They have two series of walking maps which are suitable for our canoeing needs
The Top25 series is at a scale of 4cm to the km and the Top100 series is at a scale of 1cm to the km
For the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
TOP25 IGN 2640OT Gorges du Tarn et de la JonteCausse MejeanPn des Cevennes (GPS)
TOP100 IGN 162 RodezMillau
TOP25 IGN 2939OT Gorges de lArdecheBourg-Saint-AndeolVallon-Pont-DArc (Gps)
This map doesnrsquot cover the Gardon Ceze Chassezac or the upper Ardeche just the Gorge of the Ardeche
TOP100 IGN 163 AvignonNimes
This map covers all the rivers on the trip
These maps are available to buy online at IGN and at the usual online book shops
I would recommend the TOP100 maps We have all these maps with us on the trips
G R E E N R I V E R
Green River CanoesWe provide Guided Inn-to-Inn Canoeing Holidays to the south of France in the Perigord Lot Ardeche and Tarn regions
We provide hand-crafted vacations to combine a pleasant activity canoeing with an insight into the regional history and natural history whilst enjoying the local foods and wines
All our holidays comprise of mostly canoeing with some (often optional) hiking The itinerary is planned but is flexible enough to be changed on the day if required
All our holidays are guided Our guests will be accompanied on the river and trail by an experienced guide who knows the area and rivers well Our other guide will accompany us in the background by driving our vehicle between lodgings When necessary this vehicle will be transferring our luggage meeting with us for lunch and generally being available as and when needed
section will give us an idea for the spills and thrills to come on our next day on the Ardeche
A short walk (or drive) will take us to our lodgings at the Hotel Belved which is also in the Gorge
Day 11 Canoeing the Gorge LArdeche
Today is the big day when we canoe through the fabulous Gorge LArdeche The Gorge is deep the river is remote and the rapids are exciting Between sections of the river where you can admire the fantastic scenery are Class 2 and Class 3 rapids to grab your attention Most of them are short and sweet and several of them can easily be run several times if you are in the mood
This really is a wonderful stretch of river and we will take all day to enjoy it with a sumptuous beach picnic half-way through the long day
When we are finished we will go for a beer or an ice-cream in the beautiful village of Aigueze which overlooks the final stretch of our days paddling
It is then a short drive to re-visit Olivier and Grace at Le Prieure drsquoOrniols where it all began
Day 12 Departure and Farewells
When we are ready we will drive for an hour to the TGV station at Avignon for our return to Paris and beyond
If time allows if say the train departure is after midday then we can visit the old monastery at Chartreuse de Valbonne or the waterfalls at La Roque-sur-Ceze Or indeed we could spend part of the day in Avignon itself
8 Day Ardeche Trip
This trip removes 4 days from the 12 Day trip described in the previous chapter - Days 6 7 8 and 9 Otherwise the itinerary is the same The whole trip is described fully on our website with a complete schedule map details of hotels and our current prices and schedules You can see many photographs there too
On this trip we canoe on the Gardon the Ceze the Chassezac and the Ardeche rivers in the Ardeche region of south-east France We shall explore the Gorges and Mountains of both the Ardeche and the Cevennes which are still relatively remote even to this day
The rivers in the Ardeche flow eastwards towards the Rhone river which itself then flows south to the Mediterranean The Chassezac is a tributary of the Ardeche Each of these rivers in the Ardeche flow through deep and dramatic gorges in limestone country
The Gardon Ceze and Chassezac are calm rivers with easy paddling through beautiful scenery The Ardeche provides a little more excitement with Class 2 and 3 rapids These rapids are short however and the river provides plenty of easy water between them
In-between the canoeing days we shall hike on the parts of the long-distance trail known as the GR70 - the famous Robert Louis Stevenson Trail The author walked this way more than 100 years ago to see for himself how the Hugenots (Protestants) survived in a largely Catholic country The walk is renowned for the difficulty he experienced in dealing with his donkey Modestine
Of course throughout we shall stay at remote and beautiful places and enjoy the regional cuisine and the local wines
6 Day Tarn Trip
This trip concentrates on the Tarn days on 12 Day trip described in the previous chapter - Days 6 7 8 and 9 With an arrival day and a departure day The whole trip is described fully on our website with a complete schedule map details of hotels and our current prices and schedules You can see many photographs there too
On this trip we plan to arrive and depart via the TGV Railway Station at Montpelier
When we are on the Tarn we canoe in a river which flows westwards towards the Atlantic The Tarn flows through a dramatic limestone gorge and is famously known for its beautifully clear and green waters The first two days on this river provide easy paddling whilst the third day provides more excitement with some rapids to contend with
We shall also walk through the peculiar region called the Chaos of Montpelier which has been eroded into many curious geological shapes
Of course throughout we shall stay at remote and beautiful places and enjoy the regional cuisine and the local wines
Where We Stay
Le Prieure drsquoOrniols
For the first two nights and for our last night we are at the Le Prieure dOrniols just outside the village of Goudargues Situated besides a small castle Olivier and Grace will welcome us and provide delicious meals in the beautiful small stone chambre dhote
Short walks are available either down to the river or up the lane towards the cause Or a five minute drive will take us to the small town of Goudargues
Le Priure drsquoOrniols
Le Carmel Les Vans
On the third night we are at the Le Carmel near the centre of the small town of Les Vans The hotel is a former 19th Century Convent
The hotel has a small swimming pool and we shall be dining in the pretty restaurant
If you are in the mood for an early morning walk then the town is well worth a stroll around
Le Carmel
Le Cauvel
On our fourth and fifth nights we are at Le Cauvel which is a converted farm-house in the heart of the Cevennes not far from Barres-des-Cevennes The place is run by a pair of brothers and their wives and is guided by green and organic principles We also return here on our 9th night
The hotel sits in a setting of beautiful gardens and flowers with a terrace overlooking the valley You can visit the smallholding which produces the vegetables for the kitchen
We can access the Robert Louis Stevenson Trail directly from the farmstead and possibly visit the farm next door to visit the horses
le Cauvel
Auberge de la Cascade
For the sixth and seventh nights we are at the Auberge de la Cascade in St Chely-du-Tarn The hotel comprises almost the whole of this tiny village which sits besides the Tarn over a narrow bridge barred to most traffic
The early morning walk around the village will reveal a tiny chapel underneath the cliffs as well as a small church
The hotel has a small pool for our use and we shall dine in its lovely restaurant overlooking the square
Auberge de Cascade
Hotel Doussiare
For the eighth night we stay at the Hotel DoussiAtildeumlre in Le Rozier The hotel is next to the River Jonte which joins the Tarn and has terraces overlooking the river where we shall dine in the evening
A walk around the village in the evening is well worth the effort as it sits at the junction of two dramatic valleys
Hotel Belved
For the tenth night we stay at the Hotel Belved just south of Vallons Pont DArc in the Ardeche Gorge itself This comfortable place has a small pool for our use and we shall dine here probably on the terrace this evening
After dinner we can walk a short distance down the road to some riverside camp-sites where we may be able to find some entertainment or at least a refreshing beer or two
Hotel BelvedHotel Douiare
What We See
CAVES
The newly opened (2015) Chauvet caves are a replica of those cave discovered in 1994 near the Pont DrsquoArc The replica like that at Lascaux allows visitors to see the ancient cave paintings without damaging the originals b y exposing them to the atmosphere These spectacular paintings are some of the oldest in Europe and some are 40000 years old and feature animals not seen before in other caves
Aven drsquoOrgnac these caves with interesting geological features are in the Ardeche
LE PLUS BEAUX VILLAGE DE FRANCE
Sainte-Enimie on the banks of the Tarn river
Aiguegraveze overlooking the Ardeche river
Balazuc just above the defiles on the Ardeche river
La Roque-sur-Cegraveze on the banks of the Ceze
Montclus on the banks of the Ceze rive
Voguumleacute on the Ardeche river
Canoeing
All the canoes for the trips are provided by us and include paddles and a life-jacket The price is included in the trip
We always prefer open Canadian style canoes which are paddled in tandem - with two people aboard (usually) If you prefer to paddle solo then this can be arranged These canoes are especially suited for the calm water conditions we will be paddling on and are stable and safe They allow plenty of room for yourself and your stuff
From time to time we get clients who wish to paddle a Kayak We can arrange this for you if you prefer but we do stress that the
rivers we canoe do not really warrant the use of a kayak and we feel tandem paddling in a canoe is the way to go
Most of our clients have been canoeing before but we will insist on reviewing safety procedures at the beginning of paddling each day and revise paddling strokes for those who havent paddled for a while or have paddled on lakes rather than rivers for example
For those who have never paddled before their will be plenty of time for lessons as we go These rivers are ideal places for learning
If time and the inclination allows we can also practise other paddling procedures such as Eddy Turns Peeling Out and Ferrying
The clients will not be expected to lift or carry canoes at any time
Hiking
Although the main focus of the trips will be on the canoeing we will have plenty of time for short walks and longer hikes
Where possible we will walk to and from the river although this is not compulsory
In the appropriate season when early mornings are light we can opt to go for a pre-breakfast walk The length and timing of the walk will depend on a consensus reached between those that wish to walk how early we wish to rise and the time of year
Some of the trails we walk on form part of the network of long-distance paths that criss-cross France These are known as Grand Randonees (GR) and are way-marked by a red and white flash We may walk on the GR4 (which goes from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic) passing through the Ardeche We will walk on the GR70 (the famous Robert Louis Stevenson) which
crosses the Cevennes and also possibly the GR6 which traverse the Tarn
Wildlife
On the river we will see plenty of bird-life both on and around the water We will see Ducks and Herons We will also see Kingfishers Wagtails Dippers and Sandpipers We will see Swal lows and Swi f ts and Martins as well as various other birds crossing our path such as Woodpeckers Jays and other crows as well as the
almost invisible songbirds in the tree and hedges Of the raptors we will see the Common Buzzard and possibly an Osprey or a Kestrel
This area of France has a rich variety of Butterflies and we will see many familiar species (if you are from Britain) We will also see some rather more exotic species such as the two types of Swallowtail the Cleopatra the Banded Grayling and if we are lucky some rarer species such as the Large Blue or the Lesser Purple Emperor or Festoons
The river itself will provide m a n y e x a m p l e s o f t h e Dragonfly and Damselfly family The delicate damsels include the Western Demoiselle the White-Legged the Orange F e a t h e r l e g t h e B l u e Featherleg and various Bluets and Bluetails Of the dragons w e m a y s e e t h e S m a l l Pincertail the Yellow Clubtail
the Pronged Clubtail and the Common Clubtai l amongst others
We will also be able to see many flowers especially early in the season before the meadows are cut and these will include several orchids s u c h a s t h e P u r p l e t h e Pyramid the Bee and the Lizard Orchids
Of course we will also see many trees and shrubs along the river course and in the forests We can have some fun trying to identify them
Of the reptiles we will probably see lizards and hear frogs We sometimes see a Grass Snake swimming in the river (harmless) and sometimes a Viper (the only venomous snake which is small 18 inches long and not very poisonous)
The hardest things to see are the mammals We have seen Nutria and Otters on these rivers and weve also glimpsed Red Squirrels and Mink and Martens along the banks On the early morning walks weve encountered Foxes Roe Deer and Fallow Deer Badgers have only been seen at night in the headlights
The European Beaver swims in these rivers and has been seen just once by me on the lower Ardeche
Maps And Books
GUIDE BOOKS for the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
It is an unfortunate fact that the Ardeche and Tarn areas of France are not served particularly well by guide books A number of walking books and guides are available and no doubt the regions are mentioned in more general guide books to the whole of France If you do discover something then please let us know
Cevennes and Grand Causses (Crossbill Guides) by Dirk Hillbers
The Ceacutevennes National Park together with its twin the Parc Naturel des Grands Causses are among the richest natural areas in France Against a stunning background of steep cliffs extensive forests and open steppe-like plateaux the visitor can discover an exceptional wealth of flora and fauna The hundreds of kilometres of trails and tracks make it easy to explore the area with its wealth of orchids and other wildflowers its superb range of birds and butterflies The traditional medieval villages amidst the impressive mountainous country provide a relaxed starting point for exploration In other words the Ceacutevennes has everything a naturalist could wish for This nature guide is part of the renowned Crossbill Guides series for nature enthusiasts The Crossbill Guides combine interesting and insightful accounts with up-to-date and practical tourist information and observation tips Detailed descriptions of hiking trails and car routes are conveniently linked to information on everything you want to know about the what why and wherefores of the Ceacutevennes and Grands Causses splendid nature
HISTORY
The Discovery of France A Historical Geography from the Revolution to the First World War by Graham Robb
Illuminating engrossing and full of surprises The Discovery of France is a literary exploration of a country few will recognise from maps and migration to magic language and landscape itrsquos a book that reveals the real past of France to tell the whole story and history of this remarkable nation rsquoWith gloriously apposite facts and an abundance of quirky anecdotes and thumbnail sketches of people places and customs Robb on brilliant form takes us on a stunning journey through the historical landscape of Francersquo Independent lsquoCertain books strain the patience of those close to you How many times can you demand Look at this Can you imagine Did you know that Without actually handing over the volume This is such a bookrsquo Mail on Sunday rsquoAn extraordinary journey of discovery that will delight even the most indolent armchair travellerrsquo Daily Telegraph
A Concise History of France by Roger Price
This book provides a clear and well-informed guide to French history from the emergence of a strong state in the Ile-de-France in the early middle ages to the trente glorieuses following the Second World War and the Mitterrand presidency As such it provides the most up-to-date and comprehensive study of French history available Among the books central themes are the relationship between state and society the impact of war and such crucial questions as who possessed political power how this power was used in whose interests and with what consequences Roger Price examines the role of leading figures including Philip Augustus Henri IV Louis XIV the two Napoleans Clemenceau and De Gaulle as well as the lives of ordinary people A rich entertaining guide for the student and general reader
A Travellerrsquos History of France by Robert Cole
The Travellers History series is designed for the traveller who feels they need more historical background information on the country in which they are staying than can be found in an ordinary guidebook For those who want to look deeper and discover more about the roots of France its history and culture in an enjoyable read this is the book to choose Designed for easy reference it is the key to unlocking the secrets of France If you want to find about the mysterious Merovingian kings or the results of the last election if you want to know when Chartres cathedral was built or how Napoleon rose to power or when and where Princess Diana died - youll find it all in A Travellers History of France Undoubtedly the best way to prepare for a trip to France is to bone up on some history The Travellers History of France by Robert Cole is concise and gives the essential facts in a very readable form The Independent This little book is a very good idea indeed a running commentary on the complexities triumphs and tragedies of French history from the Lascaux Caves to the Pompidou centre A must for tourists who want to know what happened where The Birmingham Post A brilliant idea from Gloucestershire publishers Windrush a series of books which give a potted history of European countries Ostensibly aimed at holidaymakers the first on France is an excellent introduction for anyone who wants an idiots guide to a history that has so often intertwined with our own The Oxford Times
FICTION
Travels with a Donkey in the Ceacutevennes and the Amateur Emigrant by Robert Louis Stevenson
In 1878 Robert Louis Srtevenson was suffereing from poor health struggling to survive on the income derived from his writings and tormented by his infatuation with Fanny Osbourne a married American woman His response was to embark on a journey through the Cevennes with a donkey Modestine and a notebook which he later transformed into lsquoTravels with a Donkeyrsquo Just a few months after publication Stevenson was off again - this time crossing the Atlantic and the breadth of America in the hope of being re-united with Fanny an experince he recored in the lsquoThe Amateur Emigrantrsquo Both pieces are classics of travel writing which reveal as much about Stevensonrsquos character as the landscape he travels through
MAPS
Many types of maps are available for this region but I recommend those produced by the Institute Geographique Nationale (IGN)
They have two series of walking maps which are suitable for our canoeing needs
The Top25 series is at a scale of 4cm to the km and the Top100 series is at a scale of 1cm to the km
For the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
TOP25 IGN 2640OT Gorges du Tarn et de la JonteCausse MejeanPn des Cevennes (GPS)
TOP100 IGN 162 RodezMillau
TOP25 IGN 2939OT Gorges de lArdecheBourg-Saint-AndeolVallon-Pont-DArc (Gps)
This map doesnrsquot cover the Gardon Ceze Chassezac or the upper Ardeche just the Gorge of the Ardeche
TOP100 IGN 163 AvignonNimes
This map covers all the rivers on the trip
These maps are available to buy online at IGN and at the usual online book shops
I would recommend the TOP100 maps We have all these maps with us on the trips
G R E E N R I V E R
Green River CanoesWe provide Guided Inn-to-Inn Canoeing Holidays to the south of France in the Perigord Lot Ardeche and Tarn regions
We provide hand-crafted vacations to combine a pleasant activity canoeing with an insight into the regional history and natural history whilst enjoying the local foods and wines
All our holidays comprise of mostly canoeing with some (often optional) hiking The itinerary is planned but is flexible enough to be changed on the day if required
All our holidays are guided Our guests will be accompanied on the river and trail by an experienced guide who knows the area and rivers well Our other guide will accompany us in the background by driving our vehicle between lodgings When necessary this vehicle will be transferring our luggage meeting with us for lunch and generally being available as and when needed
This really is a wonderful stretch of river and we will take all day to enjoy it with a sumptuous beach picnic half-way through the long day
When we are finished we will go for a beer or an ice-cream in the beautiful village of Aigueze which overlooks the final stretch of our days paddling
It is then a short drive to re-visit Olivier and Grace at Le Prieure drsquoOrniols where it all began
Day 12 Departure and Farewells
When we are ready we will drive for an hour to the TGV station at Avignon for our return to Paris and beyond
If time allows if say the train departure is after midday then we can visit the old monastery at Chartreuse de Valbonne or the waterfalls at La Roque-sur-Ceze Or indeed we could spend part of the day in Avignon itself
8 Day Ardeche Trip
This trip removes 4 days from the 12 Day trip described in the previous chapter - Days 6 7 8 and 9 Otherwise the itinerary is the same The whole trip is described fully on our website with a complete schedule map details of hotels and our current prices and schedules You can see many photographs there too
On this trip we canoe on the Gardon the Ceze the Chassezac and the Ardeche rivers in the Ardeche region of south-east France We shall explore the Gorges and Mountains of both the Ardeche and the Cevennes which are still relatively remote even to this day
The rivers in the Ardeche flow eastwards towards the Rhone river which itself then flows south to the Mediterranean The Chassezac is a tributary of the Ardeche Each of these rivers in the Ardeche flow through deep and dramatic gorges in limestone country
The Gardon Ceze and Chassezac are calm rivers with easy paddling through beautiful scenery The Ardeche provides a little more excitement with Class 2 and 3 rapids These rapids are short however and the river provides plenty of easy water between them
In-between the canoeing days we shall hike on the parts of the long-distance trail known as the GR70 - the famous Robert Louis Stevenson Trail The author walked this way more than 100 years ago to see for himself how the Hugenots (Protestants) survived in a largely Catholic country The walk is renowned for the difficulty he experienced in dealing with his donkey Modestine
Of course throughout we shall stay at remote and beautiful places and enjoy the regional cuisine and the local wines
6 Day Tarn Trip
This trip concentrates on the Tarn days on 12 Day trip described in the previous chapter - Days 6 7 8 and 9 With an arrival day and a departure day The whole trip is described fully on our website with a complete schedule map details of hotels and our current prices and schedules You can see many photographs there too
On this trip we plan to arrive and depart via the TGV Railway Station at Montpelier
When we are on the Tarn we canoe in a river which flows westwards towards the Atlantic The Tarn flows through a dramatic limestone gorge and is famously known for its beautifully clear and green waters The first two days on this river provide easy paddling whilst the third day provides more excitement with some rapids to contend with
We shall also walk through the peculiar region called the Chaos of Montpelier which has been eroded into many curious geological shapes
Of course throughout we shall stay at remote and beautiful places and enjoy the regional cuisine and the local wines
Where We Stay
Le Prieure drsquoOrniols
For the first two nights and for our last night we are at the Le Prieure dOrniols just outside the village of Goudargues Situated besides a small castle Olivier and Grace will welcome us and provide delicious meals in the beautiful small stone chambre dhote
Short walks are available either down to the river or up the lane towards the cause Or a five minute drive will take us to the small town of Goudargues
Le Priure drsquoOrniols
Le Carmel Les Vans
On the third night we are at the Le Carmel near the centre of the small town of Les Vans The hotel is a former 19th Century Convent
The hotel has a small swimming pool and we shall be dining in the pretty restaurant
If you are in the mood for an early morning walk then the town is well worth a stroll around
Le Carmel
Le Cauvel
On our fourth and fifth nights we are at Le Cauvel which is a converted farm-house in the heart of the Cevennes not far from Barres-des-Cevennes The place is run by a pair of brothers and their wives and is guided by green and organic principles We also return here on our 9th night
The hotel sits in a setting of beautiful gardens and flowers with a terrace overlooking the valley You can visit the smallholding which produces the vegetables for the kitchen
We can access the Robert Louis Stevenson Trail directly from the farmstead and possibly visit the farm next door to visit the horses
le Cauvel
Auberge de la Cascade
For the sixth and seventh nights we are at the Auberge de la Cascade in St Chely-du-Tarn The hotel comprises almost the whole of this tiny village which sits besides the Tarn over a narrow bridge barred to most traffic
The early morning walk around the village will reveal a tiny chapel underneath the cliffs as well as a small church
The hotel has a small pool for our use and we shall dine in its lovely restaurant overlooking the square
Auberge de Cascade
Hotel Doussiare
For the eighth night we stay at the Hotel DoussiAtildeumlre in Le Rozier The hotel is next to the River Jonte which joins the Tarn and has terraces overlooking the river where we shall dine in the evening
A walk around the village in the evening is well worth the effort as it sits at the junction of two dramatic valleys
Hotel Belved
For the tenth night we stay at the Hotel Belved just south of Vallons Pont DArc in the Ardeche Gorge itself This comfortable place has a small pool for our use and we shall dine here probably on the terrace this evening
After dinner we can walk a short distance down the road to some riverside camp-sites where we may be able to find some entertainment or at least a refreshing beer or two
Hotel BelvedHotel Douiare
What We See
CAVES
The newly opened (2015) Chauvet caves are a replica of those cave discovered in 1994 near the Pont DrsquoArc The replica like that at Lascaux allows visitors to see the ancient cave paintings without damaging the originals b y exposing them to the atmosphere These spectacular paintings are some of the oldest in Europe and some are 40000 years old and feature animals not seen before in other caves
Aven drsquoOrgnac these caves with interesting geological features are in the Ardeche
LE PLUS BEAUX VILLAGE DE FRANCE
Sainte-Enimie on the banks of the Tarn river
Aiguegraveze overlooking the Ardeche river
Balazuc just above the defiles on the Ardeche river
La Roque-sur-Cegraveze on the banks of the Ceze
Montclus on the banks of the Ceze rive
Voguumleacute on the Ardeche river
Canoeing
All the canoes for the trips are provided by us and include paddles and a life-jacket The price is included in the trip
We always prefer open Canadian style canoes which are paddled in tandem - with two people aboard (usually) If you prefer to paddle solo then this can be arranged These canoes are especially suited for the calm water conditions we will be paddling on and are stable and safe They allow plenty of room for yourself and your stuff
From time to time we get clients who wish to paddle a Kayak We can arrange this for you if you prefer but we do stress that the
rivers we canoe do not really warrant the use of a kayak and we feel tandem paddling in a canoe is the way to go
Most of our clients have been canoeing before but we will insist on reviewing safety procedures at the beginning of paddling each day and revise paddling strokes for those who havent paddled for a while or have paddled on lakes rather than rivers for example
For those who have never paddled before their will be plenty of time for lessons as we go These rivers are ideal places for learning
If time and the inclination allows we can also practise other paddling procedures such as Eddy Turns Peeling Out and Ferrying
The clients will not be expected to lift or carry canoes at any time
Hiking
Although the main focus of the trips will be on the canoeing we will have plenty of time for short walks and longer hikes
Where possible we will walk to and from the river although this is not compulsory
In the appropriate season when early mornings are light we can opt to go for a pre-breakfast walk The length and timing of the walk will depend on a consensus reached between those that wish to walk how early we wish to rise and the time of year
Some of the trails we walk on form part of the network of long-distance paths that criss-cross France These are known as Grand Randonees (GR) and are way-marked by a red and white flash We may walk on the GR4 (which goes from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic) passing through the Ardeche We will walk on the GR70 (the famous Robert Louis Stevenson) which
crosses the Cevennes and also possibly the GR6 which traverse the Tarn
Wildlife
On the river we will see plenty of bird-life both on and around the water We will see Ducks and Herons We will also see Kingfishers Wagtails Dippers and Sandpipers We will see Swal lows and Swi f ts and Martins as well as various other birds crossing our path such as Woodpeckers Jays and other crows as well as the
almost invisible songbirds in the tree and hedges Of the raptors we will see the Common Buzzard and possibly an Osprey or a Kestrel
This area of France has a rich variety of Butterflies and we will see many familiar species (if you are from Britain) We will also see some rather more exotic species such as the two types of Swallowtail the Cleopatra the Banded Grayling and if we are lucky some rarer species such as the Large Blue or the Lesser Purple Emperor or Festoons
The river itself will provide m a n y e x a m p l e s o f t h e Dragonfly and Damselfly family The delicate damsels include the Western Demoiselle the White-Legged the Orange F e a t h e r l e g t h e B l u e Featherleg and various Bluets and Bluetails Of the dragons w e m a y s e e t h e S m a l l Pincertail the Yellow Clubtail
the Pronged Clubtail and the Common Clubtai l amongst others
We will also be able to see many flowers especially early in the season before the meadows are cut and these will include several orchids s u c h a s t h e P u r p l e t h e Pyramid the Bee and the Lizard Orchids
Of course we will also see many trees and shrubs along the river course and in the forests We can have some fun trying to identify them
Of the reptiles we will probably see lizards and hear frogs We sometimes see a Grass Snake swimming in the river (harmless) and sometimes a Viper (the only venomous snake which is small 18 inches long and not very poisonous)
The hardest things to see are the mammals We have seen Nutria and Otters on these rivers and weve also glimpsed Red Squirrels and Mink and Martens along the banks On the early morning walks weve encountered Foxes Roe Deer and Fallow Deer Badgers have only been seen at night in the headlights
The European Beaver swims in these rivers and has been seen just once by me on the lower Ardeche
Maps And Books
GUIDE BOOKS for the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
It is an unfortunate fact that the Ardeche and Tarn areas of France are not served particularly well by guide books A number of walking books and guides are available and no doubt the regions are mentioned in more general guide books to the whole of France If you do discover something then please let us know
Cevennes and Grand Causses (Crossbill Guides) by Dirk Hillbers
The Ceacutevennes National Park together with its twin the Parc Naturel des Grands Causses are among the richest natural areas in France Against a stunning background of steep cliffs extensive forests and open steppe-like plateaux the visitor can discover an exceptional wealth of flora and fauna The hundreds of kilometres of trails and tracks make it easy to explore the area with its wealth of orchids and other wildflowers its superb range of birds and butterflies The traditional medieval villages amidst the impressive mountainous country provide a relaxed starting point for exploration In other words the Ceacutevennes has everything a naturalist could wish for This nature guide is part of the renowned Crossbill Guides series for nature enthusiasts The Crossbill Guides combine interesting and insightful accounts with up-to-date and practical tourist information and observation tips Detailed descriptions of hiking trails and car routes are conveniently linked to information on everything you want to know about the what why and wherefores of the Ceacutevennes and Grands Causses splendid nature
HISTORY
The Discovery of France A Historical Geography from the Revolution to the First World War by Graham Robb
Illuminating engrossing and full of surprises The Discovery of France is a literary exploration of a country few will recognise from maps and migration to magic language and landscape itrsquos a book that reveals the real past of France to tell the whole story and history of this remarkable nation rsquoWith gloriously apposite facts and an abundance of quirky anecdotes and thumbnail sketches of people places and customs Robb on brilliant form takes us on a stunning journey through the historical landscape of Francersquo Independent lsquoCertain books strain the patience of those close to you How many times can you demand Look at this Can you imagine Did you know that Without actually handing over the volume This is such a bookrsquo Mail on Sunday rsquoAn extraordinary journey of discovery that will delight even the most indolent armchair travellerrsquo Daily Telegraph
A Concise History of France by Roger Price
This book provides a clear and well-informed guide to French history from the emergence of a strong state in the Ile-de-France in the early middle ages to the trente glorieuses following the Second World War and the Mitterrand presidency As such it provides the most up-to-date and comprehensive study of French history available Among the books central themes are the relationship between state and society the impact of war and such crucial questions as who possessed political power how this power was used in whose interests and with what consequences Roger Price examines the role of leading figures including Philip Augustus Henri IV Louis XIV the two Napoleans Clemenceau and De Gaulle as well as the lives of ordinary people A rich entertaining guide for the student and general reader
A Travellerrsquos History of France by Robert Cole
The Travellers History series is designed for the traveller who feels they need more historical background information on the country in which they are staying than can be found in an ordinary guidebook For those who want to look deeper and discover more about the roots of France its history and culture in an enjoyable read this is the book to choose Designed for easy reference it is the key to unlocking the secrets of France If you want to find about the mysterious Merovingian kings or the results of the last election if you want to know when Chartres cathedral was built or how Napoleon rose to power or when and where Princess Diana died - youll find it all in A Travellers History of France Undoubtedly the best way to prepare for a trip to France is to bone up on some history The Travellers History of France by Robert Cole is concise and gives the essential facts in a very readable form The Independent This little book is a very good idea indeed a running commentary on the complexities triumphs and tragedies of French history from the Lascaux Caves to the Pompidou centre A must for tourists who want to know what happened where The Birmingham Post A brilliant idea from Gloucestershire publishers Windrush a series of books which give a potted history of European countries Ostensibly aimed at holidaymakers the first on France is an excellent introduction for anyone who wants an idiots guide to a history that has so often intertwined with our own The Oxford Times
FICTION
Travels with a Donkey in the Ceacutevennes and the Amateur Emigrant by Robert Louis Stevenson
In 1878 Robert Louis Srtevenson was suffereing from poor health struggling to survive on the income derived from his writings and tormented by his infatuation with Fanny Osbourne a married American woman His response was to embark on a journey through the Cevennes with a donkey Modestine and a notebook which he later transformed into lsquoTravels with a Donkeyrsquo Just a few months after publication Stevenson was off again - this time crossing the Atlantic and the breadth of America in the hope of being re-united with Fanny an experince he recored in the lsquoThe Amateur Emigrantrsquo Both pieces are classics of travel writing which reveal as much about Stevensonrsquos character as the landscape he travels through
MAPS
Many types of maps are available for this region but I recommend those produced by the Institute Geographique Nationale (IGN)
They have two series of walking maps which are suitable for our canoeing needs
The Top25 series is at a scale of 4cm to the km and the Top100 series is at a scale of 1cm to the km
For the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
TOP25 IGN 2640OT Gorges du Tarn et de la JonteCausse MejeanPn des Cevennes (GPS)
TOP100 IGN 162 RodezMillau
TOP25 IGN 2939OT Gorges de lArdecheBourg-Saint-AndeolVallon-Pont-DArc (Gps)
This map doesnrsquot cover the Gardon Ceze Chassezac or the upper Ardeche just the Gorge of the Ardeche
TOP100 IGN 163 AvignonNimes
This map covers all the rivers on the trip
These maps are available to buy online at IGN and at the usual online book shops
I would recommend the TOP100 maps We have all these maps with us on the trips
G R E E N R I V E R
Green River CanoesWe provide Guided Inn-to-Inn Canoeing Holidays to the south of France in the Perigord Lot Ardeche and Tarn regions
We provide hand-crafted vacations to combine a pleasant activity canoeing with an insight into the regional history and natural history whilst enjoying the local foods and wines
All our holidays comprise of mostly canoeing with some (often optional) hiking The itinerary is planned but is flexible enough to be changed on the day if required
All our holidays are guided Our guests will be accompanied on the river and trail by an experienced guide who knows the area and rivers well Our other guide will accompany us in the background by driving our vehicle between lodgings When necessary this vehicle will be transferring our luggage meeting with us for lunch and generally being available as and when needed
8 Day Ardeche Trip
This trip removes 4 days from the 12 Day trip described in the previous chapter - Days 6 7 8 and 9 Otherwise the itinerary is the same The whole trip is described fully on our website with a complete schedule map details of hotels and our current prices and schedules You can see many photographs there too
On this trip we canoe on the Gardon the Ceze the Chassezac and the Ardeche rivers in the Ardeche region of south-east France We shall explore the Gorges and Mountains of both the Ardeche and the Cevennes which are still relatively remote even to this day
The rivers in the Ardeche flow eastwards towards the Rhone river which itself then flows south to the Mediterranean The Chassezac is a tributary of the Ardeche Each of these rivers in the Ardeche flow through deep and dramatic gorges in limestone country
The Gardon Ceze and Chassezac are calm rivers with easy paddling through beautiful scenery The Ardeche provides a little more excitement with Class 2 and 3 rapids These rapids are short however and the river provides plenty of easy water between them
In-between the canoeing days we shall hike on the parts of the long-distance trail known as the GR70 - the famous Robert Louis Stevenson Trail The author walked this way more than 100 years ago to see for himself how the Hugenots (Protestants) survived in a largely Catholic country The walk is renowned for the difficulty he experienced in dealing with his donkey Modestine
Of course throughout we shall stay at remote and beautiful places and enjoy the regional cuisine and the local wines
6 Day Tarn Trip
This trip concentrates on the Tarn days on 12 Day trip described in the previous chapter - Days 6 7 8 and 9 With an arrival day and a departure day The whole trip is described fully on our website with a complete schedule map details of hotels and our current prices and schedules You can see many photographs there too
On this trip we plan to arrive and depart via the TGV Railway Station at Montpelier
When we are on the Tarn we canoe in a river which flows westwards towards the Atlantic The Tarn flows through a dramatic limestone gorge and is famously known for its beautifully clear and green waters The first two days on this river provide easy paddling whilst the third day provides more excitement with some rapids to contend with
We shall also walk through the peculiar region called the Chaos of Montpelier which has been eroded into many curious geological shapes
Of course throughout we shall stay at remote and beautiful places and enjoy the regional cuisine and the local wines
Where We Stay
Le Prieure drsquoOrniols
For the first two nights and for our last night we are at the Le Prieure dOrniols just outside the village of Goudargues Situated besides a small castle Olivier and Grace will welcome us and provide delicious meals in the beautiful small stone chambre dhote
Short walks are available either down to the river or up the lane towards the cause Or a five minute drive will take us to the small town of Goudargues
Le Priure drsquoOrniols
Le Carmel Les Vans
On the third night we are at the Le Carmel near the centre of the small town of Les Vans The hotel is a former 19th Century Convent
The hotel has a small swimming pool and we shall be dining in the pretty restaurant
If you are in the mood for an early morning walk then the town is well worth a stroll around
Le Carmel
Le Cauvel
On our fourth and fifth nights we are at Le Cauvel which is a converted farm-house in the heart of the Cevennes not far from Barres-des-Cevennes The place is run by a pair of brothers and their wives and is guided by green and organic principles We also return here on our 9th night
The hotel sits in a setting of beautiful gardens and flowers with a terrace overlooking the valley You can visit the smallholding which produces the vegetables for the kitchen
We can access the Robert Louis Stevenson Trail directly from the farmstead and possibly visit the farm next door to visit the horses
le Cauvel
Auberge de la Cascade
For the sixth and seventh nights we are at the Auberge de la Cascade in St Chely-du-Tarn The hotel comprises almost the whole of this tiny village which sits besides the Tarn over a narrow bridge barred to most traffic
The early morning walk around the village will reveal a tiny chapel underneath the cliffs as well as a small church
The hotel has a small pool for our use and we shall dine in its lovely restaurant overlooking the square
Auberge de Cascade
Hotel Doussiare
For the eighth night we stay at the Hotel DoussiAtildeumlre in Le Rozier The hotel is next to the River Jonte which joins the Tarn and has terraces overlooking the river where we shall dine in the evening
A walk around the village in the evening is well worth the effort as it sits at the junction of two dramatic valleys
Hotel Belved
For the tenth night we stay at the Hotel Belved just south of Vallons Pont DArc in the Ardeche Gorge itself This comfortable place has a small pool for our use and we shall dine here probably on the terrace this evening
After dinner we can walk a short distance down the road to some riverside camp-sites where we may be able to find some entertainment or at least a refreshing beer or two
Hotel BelvedHotel Douiare
What We See
CAVES
The newly opened (2015) Chauvet caves are a replica of those cave discovered in 1994 near the Pont DrsquoArc The replica like that at Lascaux allows visitors to see the ancient cave paintings without damaging the originals b y exposing them to the atmosphere These spectacular paintings are some of the oldest in Europe and some are 40000 years old and feature animals not seen before in other caves
Aven drsquoOrgnac these caves with interesting geological features are in the Ardeche
LE PLUS BEAUX VILLAGE DE FRANCE
Sainte-Enimie on the banks of the Tarn river
Aiguegraveze overlooking the Ardeche river
Balazuc just above the defiles on the Ardeche river
La Roque-sur-Cegraveze on the banks of the Ceze
Montclus on the banks of the Ceze rive
Voguumleacute on the Ardeche river
Canoeing
All the canoes for the trips are provided by us and include paddles and a life-jacket The price is included in the trip
We always prefer open Canadian style canoes which are paddled in tandem - with two people aboard (usually) If you prefer to paddle solo then this can be arranged These canoes are especially suited for the calm water conditions we will be paddling on and are stable and safe They allow plenty of room for yourself and your stuff
From time to time we get clients who wish to paddle a Kayak We can arrange this for you if you prefer but we do stress that the
rivers we canoe do not really warrant the use of a kayak and we feel tandem paddling in a canoe is the way to go
Most of our clients have been canoeing before but we will insist on reviewing safety procedures at the beginning of paddling each day and revise paddling strokes for those who havent paddled for a while or have paddled on lakes rather than rivers for example
For those who have never paddled before their will be plenty of time for lessons as we go These rivers are ideal places for learning
If time and the inclination allows we can also practise other paddling procedures such as Eddy Turns Peeling Out and Ferrying
The clients will not be expected to lift or carry canoes at any time
Hiking
Although the main focus of the trips will be on the canoeing we will have plenty of time for short walks and longer hikes
Where possible we will walk to and from the river although this is not compulsory
In the appropriate season when early mornings are light we can opt to go for a pre-breakfast walk The length and timing of the walk will depend on a consensus reached between those that wish to walk how early we wish to rise and the time of year
Some of the trails we walk on form part of the network of long-distance paths that criss-cross France These are known as Grand Randonees (GR) and are way-marked by a red and white flash We may walk on the GR4 (which goes from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic) passing through the Ardeche We will walk on the GR70 (the famous Robert Louis Stevenson) which
crosses the Cevennes and also possibly the GR6 which traverse the Tarn
Wildlife
On the river we will see plenty of bird-life both on and around the water We will see Ducks and Herons We will also see Kingfishers Wagtails Dippers and Sandpipers We will see Swal lows and Swi f ts and Martins as well as various other birds crossing our path such as Woodpeckers Jays and other crows as well as the
almost invisible songbirds in the tree and hedges Of the raptors we will see the Common Buzzard and possibly an Osprey or a Kestrel
This area of France has a rich variety of Butterflies and we will see many familiar species (if you are from Britain) We will also see some rather more exotic species such as the two types of Swallowtail the Cleopatra the Banded Grayling and if we are lucky some rarer species such as the Large Blue or the Lesser Purple Emperor or Festoons
The river itself will provide m a n y e x a m p l e s o f t h e Dragonfly and Damselfly family The delicate damsels include the Western Demoiselle the White-Legged the Orange F e a t h e r l e g t h e B l u e Featherleg and various Bluets and Bluetails Of the dragons w e m a y s e e t h e S m a l l Pincertail the Yellow Clubtail
the Pronged Clubtail and the Common Clubtai l amongst others
We will also be able to see many flowers especially early in the season before the meadows are cut and these will include several orchids s u c h a s t h e P u r p l e t h e Pyramid the Bee and the Lizard Orchids
Of course we will also see many trees and shrubs along the river course and in the forests We can have some fun trying to identify them
Of the reptiles we will probably see lizards and hear frogs We sometimes see a Grass Snake swimming in the river (harmless) and sometimes a Viper (the only venomous snake which is small 18 inches long and not very poisonous)
The hardest things to see are the mammals We have seen Nutria and Otters on these rivers and weve also glimpsed Red Squirrels and Mink and Martens along the banks On the early morning walks weve encountered Foxes Roe Deer and Fallow Deer Badgers have only been seen at night in the headlights
The European Beaver swims in these rivers and has been seen just once by me on the lower Ardeche
Maps And Books
GUIDE BOOKS for the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
It is an unfortunate fact that the Ardeche and Tarn areas of France are not served particularly well by guide books A number of walking books and guides are available and no doubt the regions are mentioned in more general guide books to the whole of France If you do discover something then please let us know
Cevennes and Grand Causses (Crossbill Guides) by Dirk Hillbers
The Ceacutevennes National Park together with its twin the Parc Naturel des Grands Causses are among the richest natural areas in France Against a stunning background of steep cliffs extensive forests and open steppe-like plateaux the visitor can discover an exceptional wealth of flora and fauna The hundreds of kilometres of trails and tracks make it easy to explore the area with its wealth of orchids and other wildflowers its superb range of birds and butterflies The traditional medieval villages amidst the impressive mountainous country provide a relaxed starting point for exploration In other words the Ceacutevennes has everything a naturalist could wish for This nature guide is part of the renowned Crossbill Guides series for nature enthusiasts The Crossbill Guides combine interesting and insightful accounts with up-to-date and practical tourist information and observation tips Detailed descriptions of hiking trails and car routes are conveniently linked to information on everything you want to know about the what why and wherefores of the Ceacutevennes and Grands Causses splendid nature
HISTORY
The Discovery of France A Historical Geography from the Revolution to the First World War by Graham Robb
Illuminating engrossing and full of surprises The Discovery of France is a literary exploration of a country few will recognise from maps and migration to magic language and landscape itrsquos a book that reveals the real past of France to tell the whole story and history of this remarkable nation rsquoWith gloriously apposite facts and an abundance of quirky anecdotes and thumbnail sketches of people places and customs Robb on brilliant form takes us on a stunning journey through the historical landscape of Francersquo Independent lsquoCertain books strain the patience of those close to you How many times can you demand Look at this Can you imagine Did you know that Without actually handing over the volume This is such a bookrsquo Mail on Sunday rsquoAn extraordinary journey of discovery that will delight even the most indolent armchair travellerrsquo Daily Telegraph
A Concise History of France by Roger Price
This book provides a clear and well-informed guide to French history from the emergence of a strong state in the Ile-de-France in the early middle ages to the trente glorieuses following the Second World War and the Mitterrand presidency As such it provides the most up-to-date and comprehensive study of French history available Among the books central themes are the relationship between state and society the impact of war and such crucial questions as who possessed political power how this power was used in whose interests and with what consequences Roger Price examines the role of leading figures including Philip Augustus Henri IV Louis XIV the two Napoleans Clemenceau and De Gaulle as well as the lives of ordinary people A rich entertaining guide for the student and general reader
A Travellerrsquos History of France by Robert Cole
The Travellers History series is designed for the traveller who feels they need more historical background information on the country in which they are staying than can be found in an ordinary guidebook For those who want to look deeper and discover more about the roots of France its history and culture in an enjoyable read this is the book to choose Designed for easy reference it is the key to unlocking the secrets of France If you want to find about the mysterious Merovingian kings or the results of the last election if you want to know when Chartres cathedral was built or how Napoleon rose to power or when and where Princess Diana died - youll find it all in A Travellers History of France Undoubtedly the best way to prepare for a trip to France is to bone up on some history The Travellers History of France by Robert Cole is concise and gives the essential facts in a very readable form The Independent This little book is a very good idea indeed a running commentary on the complexities triumphs and tragedies of French history from the Lascaux Caves to the Pompidou centre A must for tourists who want to know what happened where The Birmingham Post A brilliant idea from Gloucestershire publishers Windrush a series of books which give a potted history of European countries Ostensibly aimed at holidaymakers the first on France is an excellent introduction for anyone who wants an idiots guide to a history that has so often intertwined with our own The Oxford Times
FICTION
Travels with a Donkey in the Ceacutevennes and the Amateur Emigrant by Robert Louis Stevenson
In 1878 Robert Louis Srtevenson was suffereing from poor health struggling to survive on the income derived from his writings and tormented by his infatuation with Fanny Osbourne a married American woman His response was to embark on a journey through the Cevennes with a donkey Modestine and a notebook which he later transformed into lsquoTravels with a Donkeyrsquo Just a few months after publication Stevenson was off again - this time crossing the Atlantic and the breadth of America in the hope of being re-united with Fanny an experince he recored in the lsquoThe Amateur Emigrantrsquo Both pieces are classics of travel writing which reveal as much about Stevensonrsquos character as the landscape he travels through
MAPS
Many types of maps are available for this region but I recommend those produced by the Institute Geographique Nationale (IGN)
They have two series of walking maps which are suitable for our canoeing needs
The Top25 series is at a scale of 4cm to the km and the Top100 series is at a scale of 1cm to the km
For the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
TOP25 IGN 2640OT Gorges du Tarn et de la JonteCausse MejeanPn des Cevennes (GPS)
TOP100 IGN 162 RodezMillau
TOP25 IGN 2939OT Gorges de lArdecheBourg-Saint-AndeolVallon-Pont-DArc (Gps)
This map doesnrsquot cover the Gardon Ceze Chassezac or the upper Ardeche just the Gorge of the Ardeche
TOP100 IGN 163 AvignonNimes
This map covers all the rivers on the trip
These maps are available to buy online at IGN and at the usual online book shops
I would recommend the TOP100 maps We have all these maps with us on the trips
G R E E N R I V E R
Green River CanoesWe provide Guided Inn-to-Inn Canoeing Holidays to the south of France in the Perigord Lot Ardeche and Tarn regions
We provide hand-crafted vacations to combine a pleasant activity canoeing with an insight into the regional history and natural history whilst enjoying the local foods and wines
All our holidays comprise of mostly canoeing with some (often optional) hiking The itinerary is planned but is flexible enough to be changed on the day if required
All our holidays are guided Our guests will be accompanied on the river and trail by an experienced guide who knows the area and rivers well Our other guide will accompany us in the background by driving our vehicle between lodgings When necessary this vehicle will be transferring our luggage meeting with us for lunch and generally being available as and when needed
6 Day Tarn Trip
This trip concentrates on the Tarn days on 12 Day trip described in the previous chapter - Days 6 7 8 and 9 With an arrival day and a departure day The whole trip is described fully on our website with a complete schedule map details of hotels and our current prices and schedules You can see many photographs there too
On this trip we plan to arrive and depart via the TGV Railway Station at Montpelier
When we are on the Tarn we canoe in a river which flows westwards towards the Atlantic The Tarn flows through a dramatic limestone gorge and is famously known for its beautifully clear and green waters The first two days on this river provide easy paddling whilst the third day provides more excitement with some rapids to contend with
We shall also walk through the peculiar region called the Chaos of Montpelier which has been eroded into many curious geological shapes
Of course throughout we shall stay at remote and beautiful places and enjoy the regional cuisine and the local wines
Where We Stay
Le Prieure drsquoOrniols
For the first two nights and for our last night we are at the Le Prieure dOrniols just outside the village of Goudargues Situated besides a small castle Olivier and Grace will welcome us and provide delicious meals in the beautiful small stone chambre dhote
Short walks are available either down to the river or up the lane towards the cause Or a five minute drive will take us to the small town of Goudargues
Le Priure drsquoOrniols
Le Carmel Les Vans
On the third night we are at the Le Carmel near the centre of the small town of Les Vans The hotel is a former 19th Century Convent
The hotel has a small swimming pool and we shall be dining in the pretty restaurant
If you are in the mood for an early morning walk then the town is well worth a stroll around
Le Carmel
Le Cauvel
On our fourth and fifth nights we are at Le Cauvel which is a converted farm-house in the heart of the Cevennes not far from Barres-des-Cevennes The place is run by a pair of brothers and their wives and is guided by green and organic principles We also return here on our 9th night
The hotel sits in a setting of beautiful gardens and flowers with a terrace overlooking the valley You can visit the smallholding which produces the vegetables for the kitchen
We can access the Robert Louis Stevenson Trail directly from the farmstead and possibly visit the farm next door to visit the horses
le Cauvel
Auberge de la Cascade
For the sixth and seventh nights we are at the Auberge de la Cascade in St Chely-du-Tarn The hotel comprises almost the whole of this tiny village which sits besides the Tarn over a narrow bridge barred to most traffic
The early morning walk around the village will reveal a tiny chapel underneath the cliffs as well as a small church
The hotel has a small pool for our use and we shall dine in its lovely restaurant overlooking the square
Auberge de Cascade
Hotel Doussiare
For the eighth night we stay at the Hotel DoussiAtildeumlre in Le Rozier The hotel is next to the River Jonte which joins the Tarn and has terraces overlooking the river where we shall dine in the evening
A walk around the village in the evening is well worth the effort as it sits at the junction of two dramatic valleys
Hotel Belved
For the tenth night we stay at the Hotel Belved just south of Vallons Pont DArc in the Ardeche Gorge itself This comfortable place has a small pool for our use and we shall dine here probably on the terrace this evening
After dinner we can walk a short distance down the road to some riverside camp-sites where we may be able to find some entertainment or at least a refreshing beer or two
Hotel BelvedHotel Douiare
What We See
CAVES
The newly opened (2015) Chauvet caves are a replica of those cave discovered in 1994 near the Pont DrsquoArc The replica like that at Lascaux allows visitors to see the ancient cave paintings without damaging the originals b y exposing them to the atmosphere These spectacular paintings are some of the oldest in Europe and some are 40000 years old and feature animals not seen before in other caves
Aven drsquoOrgnac these caves with interesting geological features are in the Ardeche
LE PLUS BEAUX VILLAGE DE FRANCE
Sainte-Enimie on the banks of the Tarn river
Aiguegraveze overlooking the Ardeche river
Balazuc just above the defiles on the Ardeche river
La Roque-sur-Cegraveze on the banks of the Ceze
Montclus on the banks of the Ceze rive
Voguumleacute on the Ardeche river
Canoeing
All the canoes for the trips are provided by us and include paddles and a life-jacket The price is included in the trip
We always prefer open Canadian style canoes which are paddled in tandem - with two people aboard (usually) If you prefer to paddle solo then this can be arranged These canoes are especially suited for the calm water conditions we will be paddling on and are stable and safe They allow plenty of room for yourself and your stuff
From time to time we get clients who wish to paddle a Kayak We can arrange this for you if you prefer but we do stress that the
rivers we canoe do not really warrant the use of a kayak and we feel tandem paddling in a canoe is the way to go
Most of our clients have been canoeing before but we will insist on reviewing safety procedures at the beginning of paddling each day and revise paddling strokes for those who havent paddled for a while or have paddled on lakes rather than rivers for example
For those who have never paddled before their will be plenty of time for lessons as we go These rivers are ideal places for learning
If time and the inclination allows we can also practise other paddling procedures such as Eddy Turns Peeling Out and Ferrying
The clients will not be expected to lift or carry canoes at any time
Hiking
Although the main focus of the trips will be on the canoeing we will have plenty of time for short walks and longer hikes
Where possible we will walk to and from the river although this is not compulsory
In the appropriate season when early mornings are light we can opt to go for a pre-breakfast walk The length and timing of the walk will depend on a consensus reached between those that wish to walk how early we wish to rise and the time of year
Some of the trails we walk on form part of the network of long-distance paths that criss-cross France These are known as Grand Randonees (GR) and are way-marked by a red and white flash We may walk on the GR4 (which goes from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic) passing through the Ardeche We will walk on the GR70 (the famous Robert Louis Stevenson) which
crosses the Cevennes and also possibly the GR6 which traverse the Tarn
Wildlife
On the river we will see plenty of bird-life both on and around the water We will see Ducks and Herons We will also see Kingfishers Wagtails Dippers and Sandpipers We will see Swal lows and Swi f ts and Martins as well as various other birds crossing our path such as Woodpeckers Jays and other crows as well as the
almost invisible songbirds in the tree and hedges Of the raptors we will see the Common Buzzard and possibly an Osprey or a Kestrel
This area of France has a rich variety of Butterflies and we will see many familiar species (if you are from Britain) We will also see some rather more exotic species such as the two types of Swallowtail the Cleopatra the Banded Grayling and if we are lucky some rarer species such as the Large Blue or the Lesser Purple Emperor or Festoons
The river itself will provide m a n y e x a m p l e s o f t h e Dragonfly and Damselfly family The delicate damsels include the Western Demoiselle the White-Legged the Orange F e a t h e r l e g t h e B l u e Featherleg and various Bluets and Bluetails Of the dragons w e m a y s e e t h e S m a l l Pincertail the Yellow Clubtail
the Pronged Clubtail and the Common Clubtai l amongst others
We will also be able to see many flowers especially early in the season before the meadows are cut and these will include several orchids s u c h a s t h e P u r p l e t h e Pyramid the Bee and the Lizard Orchids
Of course we will also see many trees and shrubs along the river course and in the forests We can have some fun trying to identify them
Of the reptiles we will probably see lizards and hear frogs We sometimes see a Grass Snake swimming in the river (harmless) and sometimes a Viper (the only venomous snake which is small 18 inches long and not very poisonous)
The hardest things to see are the mammals We have seen Nutria and Otters on these rivers and weve also glimpsed Red Squirrels and Mink and Martens along the banks On the early morning walks weve encountered Foxes Roe Deer and Fallow Deer Badgers have only been seen at night in the headlights
The European Beaver swims in these rivers and has been seen just once by me on the lower Ardeche
Maps And Books
GUIDE BOOKS for the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
It is an unfortunate fact that the Ardeche and Tarn areas of France are not served particularly well by guide books A number of walking books and guides are available and no doubt the regions are mentioned in more general guide books to the whole of France If you do discover something then please let us know
Cevennes and Grand Causses (Crossbill Guides) by Dirk Hillbers
The Ceacutevennes National Park together with its twin the Parc Naturel des Grands Causses are among the richest natural areas in France Against a stunning background of steep cliffs extensive forests and open steppe-like plateaux the visitor can discover an exceptional wealth of flora and fauna The hundreds of kilometres of trails and tracks make it easy to explore the area with its wealth of orchids and other wildflowers its superb range of birds and butterflies The traditional medieval villages amidst the impressive mountainous country provide a relaxed starting point for exploration In other words the Ceacutevennes has everything a naturalist could wish for This nature guide is part of the renowned Crossbill Guides series for nature enthusiasts The Crossbill Guides combine interesting and insightful accounts with up-to-date and practical tourist information and observation tips Detailed descriptions of hiking trails and car routes are conveniently linked to information on everything you want to know about the what why and wherefores of the Ceacutevennes and Grands Causses splendid nature
HISTORY
The Discovery of France A Historical Geography from the Revolution to the First World War by Graham Robb
Illuminating engrossing and full of surprises The Discovery of France is a literary exploration of a country few will recognise from maps and migration to magic language and landscape itrsquos a book that reveals the real past of France to tell the whole story and history of this remarkable nation rsquoWith gloriously apposite facts and an abundance of quirky anecdotes and thumbnail sketches of people places and customs Robb on brilliant form takes us on a stunning journey through the historical landscape of Francersquo Independent lsquoCertain books strain the patience of those close to you How many times can you demand Look at this Can you imagine Did you know that Without actually handing over the volume This is such a bookrsquo Mail on Sunday rsquoAn extraordinary journey of discovery that will delight even the most indolent armchair travellerrsquo Daily Telegraph
A Concise History of France by Roger Price
This book provides a clear and well-informed guide to French history from the emergence of a strong state in the Ile-de-France in the early middle ages to the trente glorieuses following the Second World War and the Mitterrand presidency As such it provides the most up-to-date and comprehensive study of French history available Among the books central themes are the relationship between state and society the impact of war and such crucial questions as who possessed political power how this power was used in whose interests and with what consequences Roger Price examines the role of leading figures including Philip Augustus Henri IV Louis XIV the two Napoleans Clemenceau and De Gaulle as well as the lives of ordinary people A rich entertaining guide for the student and general reader
A Travellerrsquos History of France by Robert Cole
The Travellers History series is designed for the traveller who feels they need more historical background information on the country in which they are staying than can be found in an ordinary guidebook For those who want to look deeper and discover more about the roots of France its history and culture in an enjoyable read this is the book to choose Designed for easy reference it is the key to unlocking the secrets of France If you want to find about the mysterious Merovingian kings or the results of the last election if you want to know when Chartres cathedral was built or how Napoleon rose to power or when and where Princess Diana died - youll find it all in A Travellers History of France Undoubtedly the best way to prepare for a trip to France is to bone up on some history The Travellers History of France by Robert Cole is concise and gives the essential facts in a very readable form The Independent This little book is a very good idea indeed a running commentary on the complexities triumphs and tragedies of French history from the Lascaux Caves to the Pompidou centre A must for tourists who want to know what happened where The Birmingham Post A brilliant idea from Gloucestershire publishers Windrush a series of books which give a potted history of European countries Ostensibly aimed at holidaymakers the first on France is an excellent introduction for anyone who wants an idiots guide to a history that has so often intertwined with our own The Oxford Times
FICTION
Travels with a Donkey in the Ceacutevennes and the Amateur Emigrant by Robert Louis Stevenson
In 1878 Robert Louis Srtevenson was suffereing from poor health struggling to survive on the income derived from his writings and tormented by his infatuation with Fanny Osbourne a married American woman His response was to embark on a journey through the Cevennes with a donkey Modestine and a notebook which he later transformed into lsquoTravels with a Donkeyrsquo Just a few months after publication Stevenson was off again - this time crossing the Atlantic and the breadth of America in the hope of being re-united with Fanny an experince he recored in the lsquoThe Amateur Emigrantrsquo Both pieces are classics of travel writing which reveal as much about Stevensonrsquos character as the landscape he travels through
MAPS
Many types of maps are available for this region but I recommend those produced by the Institute Geographique Nationale (IGN)
They have two series of walking maps which are suitable for our canoeing needs
The Top25 series is at a scale of 4cm to the km and the Top100 series is at a scale of 1cm to the km
For the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
TOP25 IGN 2640OT Gorges du Tarn et de la JonteCausse MejeanPn des Cevennes (GPS)
TOP100 IGN 162 RodezMillau
TOP25 IGN 2939OT Gorges de lArdecheBourg-Saint-AndeolVallon-Pont-DArc (Gps)
This map doesnrsquot cover the Gardon Ceze Chassezac or the upper Ardeche just the Gorge of the Ardeche
TOP100 IGN 163 AvignonNimes
This map covers all the rivers on the trip
These maps are available to buy online at IGN and at the usual online book shops
I would recommend the TOP100 maps We have all these maps with us on the trips
G R E E N R I V E R
Green River CanoesWe provide Guided Inn-to-Inn Canoeing Holidays to the south of France in the Perigord Lot Ardeche and Tarn regions
We provide hand-crafted vacations to combine a pleasant activity canoeing with an insight into the regional history and natural history whilst enjoying the local foods and wines
All our holidays comprise of mostly canoeing with some (often optional) hiking The itinerary is planned but is flexible enough to be changed on the day if required
All our holidays are guided Our guests will be accompanied on the river and trail by an experienced guide who knows the area and rivers well Our other guide will accompany us in the background by driving our vehicle between lodgings When necessary this vehicle will be transferring our luggage meeting with us for lunch and generally being available as and when needed
Where We Stay
Le Prieure drsquoOrniols
For the first two nights and for our last night we are at the Le Prieure dOrniols just outside the village of Goudargues Situated besides a small castle Olivier and Grace will welcome us and provide delicious meals in the beautiful small stone chambre dhote
Short walks are available either down to the river or up the lane towards the cause Or a five minute drive will take us to the small town of Goudargues
Le Priure drsquoOrniols
Le Carmel Les Vans
On the third night we are at the Le Carmel near the centre of the small town of Les Vans The hotel is a former 19th Century Convent
The hotel has a small swimming pool and we shall be dining in the pretty restaurant
If you are in the mood for an early morning walk then the town is well worth a stroll around
Le Carmel
Le Cauvel
On our fourth and fifth nights we are at Le Cauvel which is a converted farm-house in the heart of the Cevennes not far from Barres-des-Cevennes The place is run by a pair of brothers and their wives and is guided by green and organic principles We also return here on our 9th night
The hotel sits in a setting of beautiful gardens and flowers with a terrace overlooking the valley You can visit the smallholding which produces the vegetables for the kitchen
We can access the Robert Louis Stevenson Trail directly from the farmstead and possibly visit the farm next door to visit the horses
le Cauvel
Auberge de la Cascade
For the sixth and seventh nights we are at the Auberge de la Cascade in St Chely-du-Tarn The hotel comprises almost the whole of this tiny village which sits besides the Tarn over a narrow bridge barred to most traffic
The early morning walk around the village will reveal a tiny chapel underneath the cliffs as well as a small church
The hotel has a small pool for our use and we shall dine in its lovely restaurant overlooking the square
Auberge de Cascade
Hotel Doussiare
For the eighth night we stay at the Hotel DoussiAtildeumlre in Le Rozier The hotel is next to the River Jonte which joins the Tarn and has terraces overlooking the river where we shall dine in the evening
A walk around the village in the evening is well worth the effort as it sits at the junction of two dramatic valleys
Hotel Belved
For the tenth night we stay at the Hotel Belved just south of Vallons Pont DArc in the Ardeche Gorge itself This comfortable place has a small pool for our use and we shall dine here probably on the terrace this evening
After dinner we can walk a short distance down the road to some riverside camp-sites where we may be able to find some entertainment or at least a refreshing beer or two
Hotel BelvedHotel Douiare
What We See
CAVES
The newly opened (2015) Chauvet caves are a replica of those cave discovered in 1994 near the Pont DrsquoArc The replica like that at Lascaux allows visitors to see the ancient cave paintings without damaging the originals b y exposing them to the atmosphere These spectacular paintings are some of the oldest in Europe and some are 40000 years old and feature animals not seen before in other caves
Aven drsquoOrgnac these caves with interesting geological features are in the Ardeche
LE PLUS BEAUX VILLAGE DE FRANCE
Sainte-Enimie on the banks of the Tarn river
Aiguegraveze overlooking the Ardeche river
Balazuc just above the defiles on the Ardeche river
La Roque-sur-Cegraveze on the banks of the Ceze
Montclus on the banks of the Ceze rive
Voguumleacute on the Ardeche river
Canoeing
All the canoes for the trips are provided by us and include paddles and a life-jacket The price is included in the trip
We always prefer open Canadian style canoes which are paddled in tandem - with two people aboard (usually) If you prefer to paddle solo then this can be arranged These canoes are especially suited for the calm water conditions we will be paddling on and are stable and safe They allow plenty of room for yourself and your stuff
From time to time we get clients who wish to paddle a Kayak We can arrange this for you if you prefer but we do stress that the
rivers we canoe do not really warrant the use of a kayak and we feel tandem paddling in a canoe is the way to go
Most of our clients have been canoeing before but we will insist on reviewing safety procedures at the beginning of paddling each day and revise paddling strokes for those who havent paddled for a while or have paddled on lakes rather than rivers for example
For those who have never paddled before their will be plenty of time for lessons as we go These rivers are ideal places for learning
If time and the inclination allows we can also practise other paddling procedures such as Eddy Turns Peeling Out and Ferrying
The clients will not be expected to lift or carry canoes at any time
Hiking
Although the main focus of the trips will be on the canoeing we will have plenty of time for short walks and longer hikes
Where possible we will walk to and from the river although this is not compulsory
In the appropriate season when early mornings are light we can opt to go for a pre-breakfast walk The length and timing of the walk will depend on a consensus reached between those that wish to walk how early we wish to rise and the time of year
Some of the trails we walk on form part of the network of long-distance paths that criss-cross France These are known as Grand Randonees (GR) and are way-marked by a red and white flash We may walk on the GR4 (which goes from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic) passing through the Ardeche We will walk on the GR70 (the famous Robert Louis Stevenson) which
crosses the Cevennes and also possibly the GR6 which traverse the Tarn
Wildlife
On the river we will see plenty of bird-life both on and around the water We will see Ducks and Herons We will also see Kingfishers Wagtails Dippers and Sandpipers We will see Swal lows and Swi f ts and Martins as well as various other birds crossing our path such as Woodpeckers Jays and other crows as well as the
almost invisible songbirds in the tree and hedges Of the raptors we will see the Common Buzzard and possibly an Osprey or a Kestrel
This area of France has a rich variety of Butterflies and we will see many familiar species (if you are from Britain) We will also see some rather more exotic species such as the two types of Swallowtail the Cleopatra the Banded Grayling and if we are lucky some rarer species such as the Large Blue or the Lesser Purple Emperor or Festoons
The river itself will provide m a n y e x a m p l e s o f t h e Dragonfly and Damselfly family The delicate damsels include the Western Demoiselle the White-Legged the Orange F e a t h e r l e g t h e B l u e Featherleg and various Bluets and Bluetails Of the dragons w e m a y s e e t h e S m a l l Pincertail the Yellow Clubtail
the Pronged Clubtail and the Common Clubtai l amongst others
We will also be able to see many flowers especially early in the season before the meadows are cut and these will include several orchids s u c h a s t h e P u r p l e t h e Pyramid the Bee and the Lizard Orchids
Of course we will also see many trees and shrubs along the river course and in the forests We can have some fun trying to identify them
Of the reptiles we will probably see lizards and hear frogs We sometimes see a Grass Snake swimming in the river (harmless) and sometimes a Viper (the only venomous snake which is small 18 inches long and not very poisonous)
The hardest things to see are the mammals We have seen Nutria and Otters on these rivers and weve also glimpsed Red Squirrels and Mink and Martens along the banks On the early morning walks weve encountered Foxes Roe Deer and Fallow Deer Badgers have only been seen at night in the headlights
The European Beaver swims in these rivers and has been seen just once by me on the lower Ardeche
Maps And Books
GUIDE BOOKS for the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
It is an unfortunate fact that the Ardeche and Tarn areas of France are not served particularly well by guide books A number of walking books and guides are available and no doubt the regions are mentioned in more general guide books to the whole of France If you do discover something then please let us know
Cevennes and Grand Causses (Crossbill Guides) by Dirk Hillbers
The Ceacutevennes National Park together with its twin the Parc Naturel des Grands Causses are among the richest natural areas in France Against a stunning background of steep cliffs extensive forests and open steppe-like plateaux the visitor can discover an exceptional wealth of flora and fauna The hundreds of kilometres of trails and tracks make it easy to explore the area with its wealth of orchids and other wildflowers its superb range of birds and butterflies The traditional medieval villages amidst the impressive mountainous country provide a relaxed starting point for exploration In other words the Ceacutevennes has everything a naturalist could wish for This nature guide is part of the renowned Crossbill Guides series for nature enthusiasts The Crossbill Guides combine interesting and insightful accounts with up-to-date and practical tourist information and observation tips Detailed descriptions of hiking trails and car routes are conveniently linked to information on everything you want to know about the what why and wherefores of the Ceacutevennes and Grands Causses splendid nature
HISTORY
The Discovery of France A Historical Geography from the Revolution to the First World War by Graham Robb
Illuminating engrossing and full of surprises The Discovery of France is a literary exploration of a country few will recognise from maps and migration to magic language and landscape itrsquos a book that reveals the real past of France to tell the whole story and history of this remarkable nation rsquoWith gloriously apposite facts and an abundance of quirky anecdotes and thumbnail sketches of people places and customs Robb on brilliant form takes us on a stunning journey through the historical landscape of Francersquo Independent lsquoCertain books strain the patience of those close to you How many times can you demand Look at this Can you imagine Did you know that Without actually handing over the volume This is such a bookrsquo Mail on Sunday rsquoAn extraordinary journey of discovery that will delight even the most indolent armchair travellerrsquo Daily Telegraph
A Concise History of France by Roger Price
This book provides a clear and well-informed guide to French history from the emergence of a strong state in the Ile-de-France in the early middle ages to the trente glorieuses following the Second World War and the Mitterrand presidency As such it provides the most up-to-date and comprehensive study of French history available Among the books central themes are the relationship between state and society the impact of war and such crucial questions as who possessed political power how this power was used in whose interests and with what consequences Roger Price examines the role of leading figures including Philip Augustus Henri IV Louis XIV the two Napoleans Clemenceau and De Gaulle as well as the lives of ordinary people A rich entertaining guide for the student and general reader
A Travellerrsquos History of France by Robert Cole
The Travellers History series is designed for the traveller who feels they need more historical background information on the country in which they are staying than can be found in an ordinary guidebook For those who want to look deeper and discover more about the roots of France its history and culture in an enjoyable read this is the book to choose Designed for easy reference it is the key to unlocking the secrets of France If you want to find about the mysterious Merovingian kings or the results of the last election if you want to know when Chartres cathedral was built or how Napoleon rose to power or when and where Princess Diana died - youll find it all in A Travellers History of France Undoubtedly the best way to prepare for a trip to France is to bone up on some history The Travellers History of France by Robert Cole is concise and gives the essential facts in a very readable form The Independent This little book is a very good idea indeed a running commentary on the complexities triumphs and tragedies of French history from the Lascaux Caves to the Pompidou centre A must for tourists who want to know what happened where The Birmingham Post A brilliant idea from Gloucestershire publishers Windrush a series of books which give a potted history of European countries Ostensibly aimed at holidaymakers the first on France is an excellent introduction for anyone who wants an idiots guide to a history that has so often intertwined with our own The Oxford Times
FICTION
Travels with a Donkey in the Ceacutevennes and the Amateur Emigrant by Robert Louis Stevenson
In 1878 Robert Louis Srtevenson was suffereing from poor health struggling to survive on the income derived from his writings and tormented by his infatuation with Fanny Osbourne a married American woman His response was to embark on a journey through the Cevennes with a donkey Modestine and a notebook which he later transformed into lsquoTravels with a Donkeyrsquo Just a few months after publication Stevenson was off again - this time crossing the Atlantic and the breadth of America in the hope of being re-united with Fanny an experince he recored in the lsquoThe Amateur Emigrantrsquo Both pieces are classics of travel writing which reveal as much about Stevensonrsquos character as the landscape he travels through
MAPS
Many types of maps are available for this region but I recommend those produced by the Institute Geographique Nationale (IGN)
They have two series of walking maps which are suitable for our canoeing needs
The Top25 series is at a scale of 4cm to the km and the Top100 series is at a scale of 1cm to the km
For the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
TOP25 IGN 2640OT Gorges du Tarn et de la JonteCausse MejeanPn des Cevennes (GPS)
TOP100 IGN 162 RodezMillau
TOP25 IGN 2939OT Gorges de lArdecheBourg-Saint-AndeolVallon-Pont-DArc (Gps)
This map doesnrsquot cover the Gardon Ceze Chassezac or the upper Ardeche just the Gorge of the Ardeche
TOP100 IGN 163 AvignonNimes
This map covers all the rivers on the trip
These maps are available to buy online at IGN and at the usual online book shops
I would recommend the TOP100 maps We have all these maps with us on the trips
G R E E N R I V E R
Green River CanoesWe provide Guided Inn-to-Inn Canoeing Holidays to the south of France in the Perigord Lot Ardeche and Tarn regions
We provide hand-crafted vacations to combine a pleasant activity canoeing with an insight into the regional history and natural history whilst enjoying the local foods and wines
All our holidays comprise of mostly canoeing with some (often optional) hiking The itinerary is planned but is flexible enough to be changed on the day if required
All our holidays are guided Our guests will be accompanied on the river and trail by an experienced guide who knows the area and rivers well Our other guide will accompany us in the background by driving our vehicle between lodgings When necessary this vehicle will be transferring our luggage meeting with us for lunch and generally being available as and when needed
Le Carmel Les Vans
On the third night we are at the Le Carmel near the centre of the small town of Les Vans The hotel is a former 19th Century Convent
The hotel has a small swimming pool and we shall be dining in the pretty restaurant
If you are in the mood for an early morning walk then the town is well worth a stroll around
Le Carmel
Le Cauvel
On our fourth and fifth nights we are at Le Cauvel which is a converted farm-house in the heart of the Cevennes not far from Barres-des-Cevennes The place is run by a pair of brothers and their wives and is guided by green and organic principles We also return here on our 9th night
The hotel sits in a setting of beautiful gardens and flowers with a terrace overlooking the valley You can visit the smallholding which produces the vegetables for the kitchen
We can access the Robert Louis Stevenson Trail directly from the farmstead and possibly visit the farm next door to visit the horses
le Cauvel
Auberge de la Cascade
For the sixth and seventh nights we are at the Auberge de la Cascade in St Chely-du-Tarn The hotel comprises almost the whole of this tiny village which sits besides the Tarn over a narrow bridge barred to most traffic
The early morning walk around the village will reveal a tiny chapel underneath the cliffs as well as a small church
The hotel has a small pool for our use and we shall dine in its lovely restaurant overlooking the square
Auberge de Cascade
Hotel Doussiare
For the eighth night we stay at the Hotel DoussiAtildeumlre in Le Rozier The hotel is next to the River Jonte which joins the Tarn and has terraces overlooking the river where we shall dine in the evening
A walk around the village in the evening is well worth the effort as it sits at the junction of two dramatic valleys
Hotel Belved
For the tenth night we stay at the Hotel Belved just south of Vallons Pont DArc in the Ardeche Gorge itself This comfortable place has a small pool for our use and we shall dine here probably on the terrace this evening
After dinner we can walk a short distance down the road to some riverside camp-sites where we may be able to find some entertainment or at least a refreshing beer or two
Hotel BelvedHotel Douiare
What We See
CAVES
The newly opened (2015) Chauvet caves are a replica of those cave discovered in 1994 near the Pont DrsquoArc The replica like that at Lascaux allows visitors to see the ancient cave paintings without damaging the originals b y exposing them to the atmosphere These spectacular paintings are some of the oldest in Europe and some are 40000 years old and feature animals not seen before in other caves
Aven drsquoOrgnac these caves with interesting geological features are in the Ardeche
LE PLUS BEAUX VILLAGE DE FRANCE
Sainte-Enimie on the banks of the Tarn river
Aiguegraveze overlooking the Ardeche river
Balazuc just above the defiles on the Ardeche river
La Roque-sur-Cegraveze on the banks of the Ceze
Montclus on the banks of the Ceze rive
Voguumleacute on the Ardeche river
Canoeing
All the canoes for the trips are provided by us and include paddles and a life-jacket The price is included in the trip
We always prefer open Canadian style canoes which are paddled in tandem - with two people aboard (usually) If you prefer to paddle solo then this can be arranged These canoes are especially suited for the calm water conditions we will be paddling on and are stable and safe They allow plenty of room for yourself and your stuff
From time to time we get clients who wish to paddle a Kayak We can arrange this for you if you prefer but we do stress that the
rivers we canoe do not really warrant the use of a kayak and we feel tandem paddling in a canoe is the way to go
Most of our clients have been canoeing before but we will insist on reviewing safety procedures at the beginning of paddling each day and revise paddling strokes for those who havent paddled for a while or have paddled on lakes rather than rivers for example
For those who have never paddled before their will be plenty of time for lessons as we go These rivers are ideal places for learning
If time and the inclination allows we can also practise other paddling procedures such as Eddy Turns Peeling Out and Ferrying
The clients will not be expected to lift or carry canoes at any time
Hiking
Although the main focus of the trips will be on the canoeing we will have plenty of time for short walks and longer hikes
Where possible we will walk to and from the river although this is not compulsory
In the appropriate season when early mornings are light we can opt to go for a pre-breakfast walk The length and timing of the walk will depend on a consensus reached between those that wish to walk how early we wish to rise and the time of year
Some of the trails we walk on form part of the network of long-distance paths that criss-cross France These are known as Grand Randonees (GR) and are way-marked by a red and white flash We may walk on the GR4 (which goes from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic) passing through the Ardeche We will walk on the GR70 (the famous Robert Louis Stevenson) which
crosses the Cevennes and also possibly the GR6 which traverse the Tarn
Wildlife
On the river we will see plenty of bird-life both on and around the water We will see Ducks and Herons We will also see Kingfishers Wagtails Dippers and Sandpipers We will see Swal lows and Swi f ts and Martins as well as various other birds crossing our path such as Woodpeckers Jays and other crows as well as the
almost invisible songbirds in the tree and hedges Of the raptors we will see the Common Buzzard and possibly an Osprey or a Kestrel
This area of France has a rich variety of Butterflies and we will see many familiar species (if you are from Britain) We will also see some rather more exotic species such as the two types of Swallowtail the Cleopatra the Banded Grayling and if we are lucky some rarer species such as the Large Blue or the Lesser Purple Emperor or Festoons
The river itself will provide m a n y e x a m p l e s o f t h e Dragonfly and Damselfly family The delicate damsels include the Western Demoiselle the White-Legged the Orange F e a t h e r l e g t h e B l u e Featherleg and various Bluets and Bluetails Of the dragons w e m a y s e e t h e S m a l l Pincertail the Yellow Clubtail
the Pronged Clubtail and the Common Clubtai l amongst others
We will also be able to see many flowers especially early in the season before the meadows are cut and these will include several orchids s u c h a s t h e P u r p l e t h e Pyramid the Bee and the Lizard Orchids
Of course we will also see many trees and shrubs along the river course and in the forests We can have some fun trying to identify them
Of the reptiles we will probably see lizards and hear frogs We sometimes see a Grass Snake swimming in the river (harmless) and sometimes a Viper (the only venomous snake which is small 18 inches long and not very poisonous)
The hardest things to see are the mammals We have seen Nutria and Otters on these rivers and weve also glimpsed Red Squirrels and Mink and Martens along the banks On the early morning walks weve encountered Foxes Roe Deer and Fallow Deer Badgers have only been seen at night in the headlights
The European Beaver swims in these rivers and has been seen just once by me on the lower Ardeche
Maps And Books
GUIDE BOOKS for the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
It is an unfortunate fact that the Ardeche and Tarn areas of France are not served particularly well by guide books A number of walking books and guides are available and no doubt the regions are mentioned in more general guide books to the whole of France If you do discover something then please let us know
Cevennes and Grand Causses (Crossbill Guides) by Dirk Hillbers
The Ceacutevennes National Park together with its twin the Parc Naturel des Grands Causses are among the richest natural areas in France Against a stunning background of steep cliffs extensive forests and open steppe-like plateaux the visitor can discover an exceptional wealth of flora and fauna The hundreds of kilometres of trails and tracks make it easy to explore the area with its wealth of orchids and other wildflowers its superb range of birds and butterflies The traditional medieval villages amidst the impressive mountainous country provide a relaxed starting point for exploration In other words the Ceacutevennes has everything a naturalist could wish for This nature guide is part of the renowned Crossbill Guides series for nature enthusiasts The Crossbill Guides combine interesting and insightful accounts with up-to-date and practical tourist information and observation tips Detailed descriptions of hiking trails and car routes are conveniently linked to information on everything you want to know about the what why and wherefores of the Ceacutevennes and Grands Causses splendid nature
HISTORY
The Discovery of France A Historical Geography from the Revolution to the First World War by Graham Robb
Illuminating engrossing and full of surprises The Discovery of France is a literary exploration of a country few will recognise from maps and migration to magic language and landscape itrsquos a book that reveals the real past of France to tell the whole story and history of this remarkable nation rsquoWith gloriously apposite facts and an abundance of quirky anecdotes and thumbnail sketches of people places and customs Robb on brilliant form takes us on a stunning journey through the historical landscape of Francersquo Independent lsquoCertain books strain the patience of those close to you How many times can you demand Look at this Can you imagine Did you know that Without actually handing over the volume This is such a bookrsquo Mail on Sunday rsquoAn extraordinary journey of discovery that will delight even the most indolent armchair travellerrsquo Daily Telegraph
A Concise History of France by Roger Price
This book provides a clear and well-informed guide to French history from the emergence of a strong state in the Ile-de-France in the early middle ages to the trente glorieuses following the Second World War and the Mitterrand presidency As such it provides the most up-to-date and comprehensive study of French history available Among the books central themes are the relationship between state and society the impact of war and such crucial questions as who possessed political power how this power was used in whose interests and with what consequences Roger Price examines the role of leading figures including Philip Augustus Henri IV Louis XIV the two Napoleans Clemenceau and De Gaulle as well as the lives of ordinary people A rich entertaining guide for the student and general reader
A Travellerrsquos History of France by Robert Cole
The Travellers History series is designed for the traveller who feels they need more historical background information on the country in which they are staying than can be found in an ordinary guidebook For those who want to look deeper and discover more about the roots of France its history and culture in an enjoyable read this is the book to choose Designed for easy reference it is the key to unlocking the secrets of France If you want to find about the mysterious Merovingian kings or the results of the last election if you want to know when Chartres cathedral was built or how Napoleon rose to power or when and where Princess Diana died - youll find it all in A Travellers History of France Undoubtedly the best way to prepare for a trip to France is to bone up on some history The Travellers History of France by Robert Cole is concise and gives the essential facts in a very readable form The Independent This little book is a very good idea indeed a running commentary on the complexities triumphs and tragedies of French history from the Lascaux Caves to the Pompidou centre A must for tourists who want to know what happened where The Birmingham Post A brilliant idea from Gloucestershire publishers Windrush a series of books which give a potted history of European countries Ostensibly aimed at holidaymakers the first on France is an excellent introduction for anyone who wants an idiots guide to a history that has so often intertwined with our own The Oxford Times
FICTION
Travels with a Donkey in the Ceacutevennes and the Amateur Emigrant by Robert Louis Stevenson
In 1878 Robert Louis Srtevenson was suffereing from poor health struggling to survive on the income derived from his writings and tormented by his infatuation with Fanny Osbourne a married American woman His response was to embark on a journey through the Cevennes with a donkey Modestine and a notebook which he later transformed into lsquoTravels with a Donkeyrsquo Just a few months after publication Stevenson was off again - this time crossing the Atlantic and the breadth of America in the hope of being re-united with Fanny an experince he recored in the lsquoThe Amateur Emigrantrsquo Both pieces are classics of travel writing which reveal as much about Stevensonrsquos character as the landscape he travels through
MAPS
Many types of maps are available for this region but I recommend those produced by the Institute Geographique Nationale (IGN)
They have two series of walking maps which are suitable for our canoeing needs
The Top25 series is at a scale of 4cm to the km and the Top100 series is at a scale of 1cm to the km
For the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
TOP25 IGN 2640OT Gorges du Tarn et de la JonteCausse MejeanPn des Cevennes (GPS)
TOP100 IGN 162 RodezMillau
TOP25 IGN 2939OT Gorges de lArdecheBourg-Saint-AndeolVallon-Pont-DArc (Gps)
This map doesnrsquot cover the Gardon Ceze Chassezac or the upper Ardeche just the Gorge of the Ardeche
TOP100 IGN 163 AvignonNimes
This map covers all the rivers on the trip
These maps are available to buy online at IGN and at the usual online book shops
I would recommend the TOP100 maps We have all these maps with us on the trips
G R E E N R I V E R
Green River CanoesWe provide Guided Inn-to-Inn Canoeing Holidays to the south of France in the Perigord Lot Ardeche and Tarn regions
We provide hand-crafted vacations to combine a pleasant activity canoeing with an insight into the regional history and natural history whilst enjoying the local foods and wines
All our holidays comprise of mostly canoeing with some (often optional) hiking The itinerary is planned but is flexible enough to be changed on the day if required
All our holidays are guided Our guests will be accompanied on the river and trail by an experienced guide who knows the area and rivers well Our other guide will accompany us in the background by driving our vehicle between lodgings When necessary this vehicle will be transferring our luggage meeting with us for lunch and generally being available as and when needed
Le Cauvel
On our fourth and fifth nights we are at Le Cauvel which is a converted farm-house in the heart of the Cevennes not far from Barres-des-Cevennes The place is run by a pair of brothers and their wives and is guided by green and organic principles We also return here on our 9th night
The hotel sits in a setting of beautiful gardens and flowers with a terrace overlooking the valley You can visit the smallholding which produces the vegetables for the kitchen
We can access the Robert Louis Stevenson Trail directly from the farmstead and possibly visit the farm next door to visit the horses
le Cauvel
Auberge de la Cascade
For the sixth and seventh nights we are at the Auberge de la Cascade in St Chely-du-Tarn The hotel comprises almost the whole of this tiny village which sits besides the Tarn over a narrow bridge barred to most traffic
The early morning walk around the village will reveal a tiny chapel underneath the cliffs as well as a small church
The hotel has a small pool for our use and we shall dine in its lovely restaurant overlooking the square
Auberge de Cascade
Hotel Doussiare
For the eighth night we stay at the Hotel DoussiAtildeumlre in Le Rozier The hotel is next to the River Jonte which joins the Tarn and has terraces overlooking the river where we shall dine in the evening
A walk around the village in the evening is well worth the effort as it sits at the junction of two dramatic valleys
Hotel Belved
For the tenth night we stay at the Hotel Belved just south of Vallons Pont DArc in the Ardeche Gorge itself This comfortable place has a small pool for our use and we shall dine here probably on the terrace this evening
After dinner we can walk a short distance down the road to some riverside camp-sites where we may be able to find some entertainment or at least a refreshing beer or two
Hotel BelvedHotel Douiare
What We See
CAVES
The newly opened (2015) Chauvet caves are a replica of those cave discovered in 1994 near the Pont DrsquoArc The replica like that at Lascaux allows visitors to see the ancient cave paintings without damaging the originals b y exposing them to the atmosphere These spectacular paintings are some of the oldest in Europe and some are 40000 years old and feature animals not seen before in other caves
Aven drsquoOrgnac these caves with interesting geological features are in the Ardeche
LE PLUS BEAUX VILLAGE DE FRANCE
Sainte-Enimie on the banks of the Tarn river
Aiguegraveze overlooking the Ardeche river
Balazuc just above the defiles on the Ardeche river
La Roque-sur-Cegraveze on the banks of the Ceze
Montclus on the banks of the Ceze rive
Voguumleacute on the Ardeche river
Canoeing
All the canoes for the trips are provided by us and include paddles and a life-jacket The price is included in the trip
We always prefer open Canadian style canoes which are paddled in tandem - with two people aboard (usually) If you prefer to paddle solo then this can be arranged These canoes are especially suited for the calm water conditions we will be paddling on and are stable and safe They allow plenty of room for yourself and your stuff
From time to time we get clients who wish to paddle a Kayak We can arrange this for you if you prefer but we do stress that the
rivers we canoe do not really warrant the use of a kayak and we feel tandem paddling in a canoe is the way to go
Most of our clients have been canoeing before but we will insist on reviewing safety procedures at the beginning of paddling each day and revise paddling strokes for those who havent paddled for a while or have paddled on lakes rather than rivers for example
For those who have never paddled before their will be plenty of time for lessons as we go These rivers are ideal places for learning
If time and the inclination allows we can also practise other paddling procedures such as Eddy Turns Peeling Out and Ferrying
The clients will not be expected to lift or carry canoes at any time
Hiking
Although the main focus of the trips will be on the canoeing we will have plenty of time for short walks and longer hikes
Where possible we will walk to and from the river although this is not compulsory
In the appropriate season when early mornings are light we can opt to go for a pre-breakfast walk The length and timing of the walk will depend on a consensus reached between those that wish to walk how early we wish to rise and the time of year
Some of the trails we walk on form part of the network of long-distance paths that criss-cross France These are known as Grand Randonees (GR) and are way-marked by a red and white flash We may walk on the GR4 (which goes from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic) passing through the Ardeche We will walk on the GR70 (the famous Robert Louis Stevenson) which
crosses the Cevennes and also possibly the GR6 which traverse the Tarn
Wildlife
On the river we will see plenty of bird-life both on and around the water We will see Ducks and Herons We will also see Kingfishers Wagtails Dippers and Sandpipers We will see Swal lows and Swi f ts and Martins as well as various other birds crossing our path such as Woodpeckers Jays and other crows as well as the
almost invisible songbirds in the tree and hedges Of the raptors we will see the Common Buzzard and possibly an Osprey or a Kestrel
This area of France has a rich variety of Butterflies and we will see many familiar species (if you are from Britain) We will also see some rather more exotic species such as the two types of Swallowtail the Cleopatra the Banded Grayling and if we are lucky some rarer species such as the Large Blue or the Lesser Purple Emperor or Festoons
The river itself will provide m a n y e x a m p l e s o f t h e Dragonfly and Damselfly family The delicate damsels include the Western Demoiselle the White-Legged the Orange F e a t h e r l e g t h e B l u e Featherleg and various Bluets and Bluetails Of the dragons w e m a y s e e t h e S m a l l Pincertail the Yellow Clubtail
the Pronged Clubtail and the Common Clubtai l amongst others
We will also be able to see many flowers especially early in the season before the meadows are cut and these will include several orchids s u c h a s t h e P u r p l e t h e Pyramid the Bee and the Lizard Orchids
Of course we will also see many trees and shrubs along the river course and in the forests We can have some fun trying to identify them
Of the reptiles we will probably see lizards and hear frogs We sometimes see a Grass Snake swimming in the river (harmless) and sometimes a Viper (the only venomous snake which is small 18 inches long and not very poisonous)
The hardest things to see are the mammals We have seen Nutria and Otters on these rivers and weve also glimpsed Red Squirrels and Mink and Martens along the banks On the early morning walks weve encountered Foxes Roe Deer and Fallow Deer Badgers have only been seen at night in the headlights
The European Beaver swims in these rivers and has been seen just once by me on the lower Ardeche
Maps And Books
GUIDE BOOKS for the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
It is an unfortunate fact that the Ardeche and Tarn areas of France are not served particularly well by guide books A number of walking books and guides are available and no doubt the regions are mentioned in more general guide books to the whole of France If you do discover something then please let us know
Cevennes and Grand Causses (Crossbill Guides) by Dirk Hillbers
The Ceacutevennes National Park together with its twin the Parc Naturel des Grands Causses are among the richest natural areas in France Against a stunning background of steep cliffs extensive forests and open steppe-like plateaux the visitor can discover an exceptional wealth of flora and fauna The hundreds of kilometres of trails and tracks make it easy to explore the area with its wealth of orchids and other wildflowers its superb range of birds and butterflies The traditional medieval villages amidst the impressive mountainous country provide a relaxed starting point for exploration In other words the Ceacutevennes has everything a naturalist could wish for This nature guide is part of the renowned Crossbill Guides series for nature enthusiasts The Crossbill Guides combine interesting and insightful accounts with up-to-date and practical tourist information and observation tips Detailed descriptions of hiking trails and car routes are conveniently linked to information on everything you want to know about the what why and wherefores of the Ceacutevennes and Grands Causses splendid nature
HISTORY
The Discovery of France A Historical Geography from the Revolution to the First World War by Graham Robb
Illuminating engrossing and full of surprises The Discovery of France is a literary exploration of a country few will recognise from maps and migration to magic language and landscape itrsquos a book that reveals the real past of France to tell the whole story and history of this remarkable nation rsquoWith gloriously apposite facts and an abundance of quirky anecdotes and thumbnail sketches of people places and customs Robb on brilliant form takes us on a stunning journey through the historical landscape of Francersquo Independent lsquoCertain books strain the patience of those close to you How many times can you demand Look at this Can you imagine Did you know that Without actually handing over the volume This is such a bookrsquo Mail on Sunday rsquoAn extraordinary journey of discovery that will delight even the most indolent armchair travellerrsquo Daily Telegraph
A Concise History of France by Roger Price
This book provides a clear and well-informed guide to French history from the emergence of a strong state in the Ile-de-France in the early middle ages to the trente glorieuses following the Second World War and the Mitterrand presidency As such it provides the most up-to-date and comprehensive study of French history available Among the books central themes are the relationship between state and society the impact of war and such crucial questions as who possessed political power how this power was used in whose interests and with what consequences Roger Price examines the role of leading figures including Philip Augustus Henri IV Louis XIV the two Napoleans Clemenceau and De Gaulle as well as the lives of ordinary people A rich entertaining guide for the student and general reader
A Travellerrsquos History of France by Robert Cole
The Travellers History series is designed for the traveller who feels they need more historical background information on the country in which they are staying than can be found in an ordinary guidebook For those who want to look deeper and discover more about the roots of France its history and culture in an enjoyable read this is the book to choose Designed for easy reference it is the key to unlocking the secrets of France If you want to find about the mysterious Merovingian kings or the results of the last election if you want to know when Chartres cathedral was built or how Napoleon rose to power or when and where Princess Diana died - youll find it all in A Travellers History of France Undoubtedly the best way to prepare for a trip to France is to bone up on some history The Travellers History of France by Robert Cole is concise and gives the essential facts in a very readable form The Independent This little book is a very good idea indeed a running commentary on the complexities triumphs and tragedies of French history from the Lascaux Caves to the Pompidou centre A must for tourists who want to know what happened where The Birmingham Post A brilliant idea from Gloucestershire publishers Windrush a series of books which give a potted history of European countries Ostensibly aimed at holidaymakers the first on France is an excellent introduction for anyone who wants an idiots guide to a history that has so often intertwined with our own The Oxford Times
FICTION
Travels with a Donkey in the Ceacutevennes and the Amateur Emigrant by Robert Louis Stevenson
In 1878 Robert Louis Srtevenson was suffereing from poor health struggling to survive on the income derived from his writings and tormented by his infatuation with Fanny Osbourne a married American woman His response was to embark on a journey through the Cevennes with a donkey Modestine and a notebook which he later transformed into lsquoTravels with a Donkeyrsquo Just a few months after publication Stevenson was off again - this time crossing the Atlantic and the breadth of America in the hope of being re-united with Fanny an experince he recored in the lsquoThe Amateur Emigrantrsquo Both pieces are classics of travel writing which reveal as much about Stevensonrsquos character as the landscape he travels through
MAPS
Many types of maps are available for this region but I recommend those produced by the Institute Geographique Nationale (IGN)
They have two series of walking maps which are suitable for our canoeing needs
The Top25 series is at a scale of 4cm to the km and the Top100 series is at a scale of 1cm to the km
For the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
TOP25 IGN 2640OT Gorges du Tarn et de la JonteCausse MejeanPn des Cevennes (GPS)
TOP100 IGN 162 RodezMillau
TOP25 IGN 2939OT Gorges de lArdecheBourg-Saint-AndeolVallon-Pont-DArc (Gps)
This map doesnrsquot cover the Gardon Ceze Chassezac or the upper Ardeche just the Gorge of the Ardeche
TOP100 IGN 163 AvignonNimes
This map covers all the rivers on the trip
These maps are available to buy online at IGN and at the usual online book shops
I would recommend the TOP100 maps We have all these maps with us on the trips
G R E E N R I V E R
Green River CanoesWe provide Guided Inn-to-Inn Canoeing Holidays to the south of France in the Perigord Lot Ardeche and Tarn regions
We provide hand-crafted vacations to combine a pleasant activity canoeing with an insight into the regional history and natural history whilst enjoying the local foods and wines
All our holidays comprise of mostly canoeing with some (often optional) hiking The itinerary is planned but is flexible enough to be changed on the day if required
All our holidays are guided Our guests will be accompanied on the river and trail by an experienced guide who knows the area and rivers well Our other guide will accompany us in the background by driving our vehicle between lodgings When necessary this vehicle will be transferring our luggage meeting with us for lunch and generally being available as and when needed
Auberge de la Cascade
For the sixth and seventh nights we are at the Auberge de la Cascade in St Chely-du-Tarn The hotel comprises almost the whole of this tiny village which sits besides the Tarn over a narrow bridge barred to most traffic
The early morning walk around the village will reveal a tiny chapel underneath the cliffs as well as a small church
The hotel has a small pool for our use and we shall dine in its lovely restaurant overlooking the square
Auberge de Cascade
Hotel Doussiare
For the eighth night we stay at the Hotel DoussiAtildeumlre in Le Rozier The hotel is next to the River Jonte which joins the Tarn and has terraces overlooking the river where we shall dine in the evening
A walk around the village in the evening is well worth the effort as it sits at the junction of two dramatic valleys
Hotel Belved
For the tenth night we stay at the Hotel Belved just south of Vallons Pont DArc in the Ardeche Gorge itself This comfortable place has a small pool for our use and we shall dine here probably on the terrace this evening
After dinner we can walk a short distance down the road to some riverside camp-sites where we may be able to find some entertainment or at least a refreshing beer or two
Hotel BelvedHotel Douiare
What We See
CAVES
The newly opened (2015) Chauvet caves are a replica of those cave discovered in 1994 near the Pont DrsquoArc The replica like that at Lascaux allows visitors to see the ancient cave paintings without damaging the originals b y exposing them to the atmosphere These spectacular paintings are some of the oldest in Europe and some are 40000 years old and feature animals not seen before in other caves
Aven drsquoOrgnac these caves with interesting geological features are in the Ardeche
LE PLUS BEAUX VILLAGE DE FRANCE
Sainte-Enimie on the banks of the Tarn river
Aiguegraveze overlooking the Ardeche river
Balazuc just above the defiles on the Ardeche river
La Roque-sur-Cegraveze on the banks of the Ceze
Montclus on the banks of the Ceze rive
Voguumleacute on the Ardeche river
Canoeing
All the canoes for the trips are provided by us and include paddles and a life-jacket The price is included in the trip
We always prefer open Canadian style canoes which are paddled in tandem - with two people aboard (usually) If you prefer to paddle solo then this can be arranged These canoes are especially suited for the calm water conditions we will be paddling on and are stable and safe They allow plenty of room for yourself and your stuff
From time to time we get clients who wish to paddle a Kayak We can arrange this for you if you prefer but we do stress that the
rivers we canoe do not really warrant the use of a kayak and we feel tandem paddling in a canoe is the way to go
Most of our clients have been canoeing before but we will insist on reviewing safety procedures at the beginning of paddling each day and revise paddling strokes for those who havent paddled for a while or have paddled on lakes rather than rivers for example
For those who have never paddled before their will be plenty of time for lessons as we go These rivers are ideal places for learning
If time and the inclination allows we can also practise other paddling procedures such as Eddy Turns Peeling Out and Ferrying
The clients will not be expected to lift or carry canoes at any time
Hiking
Although the main focus of the trips will be on the canoeing we will have plenty of time for short walks and longer hikes
Where possible we will walk to and from the river although this is not compulsory
In the appropriate season when early mornings are light we can opt to go for a pre-breakfast walk The length and timing of the walk will depend on a consensus reached between those that wish to walk how early we wish to rise and the time of year
Some of the trails we walk on form part of the network of long-distance paths that criss-cross France These are known as Grand Randonees (GR) and are way-marked by a red and white flash We may walk on the GR4 (which goes from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic) passing through the Ardeche We will walk on the GR70 (the famous Robert Louis Stevenson) which
crosses the Cevennes and also possibly the GR6 which traverse the Tarn
Wildlife
On the river we will see plenty of bird-life both on and around the water We will see Ducks and Herons We will also see Kingfishers Wagtails Dippers and Sandpipers We will see Swal lows and Swi f ts and Martins as well as various other birds crossing our path such as Woodpeckers Jays and other crows as well as the
almost invisible songbirds in the tree and hedges Of the raptors we will see the Common Buzzard and possibly an Osprey or a Kestrel
This area of France has a rich variety of Butterflies and we will see many familiar species (if you are from Britain) We will also see some rather more exotic species such as the two types of Swallowtail the Cleopatra the Banded Grayling and if we are lucky some rarer species such as the Large Blue or the Lesser Purple Emperor or Festoons
The river itself will provide m a n y e x a m p l e s o f t h e Dragonfly and Damselfly family The delicate damsels include the Western Demoiselle the White-Legged the Orange F e a t h e r l e g t h e B l u e Featherleg and various Bluets and Bluetails Of the dragons w e m a y s e e t h e S m a l l Pincertail the Yellow Clubtail
the Pronged Clubtail and the Common Clubtai l amongst others
We will also be able to see many flowers especially early in the season before the meadows are cut and these will include several orchids s u c h a s t h e P u r p l e t h e Pyramid the Bee and the Lizard Orchids
Of course we will also see many trees and shrubs along the river course and in the forests We can have some fun trying to identify them
Of the reptiles we will probably see lizards and hear frogs We sometimes see a Grass Snake swimming in the river (harmless) and sometimes a Viper (the only venomous snake which is small 18 inches long and not very poisonous)
The hardest things to see are the mammals We have seen Nutria and Otters on these rivers and weve also glimpsed Red Squirrels and Mink and Martens along the banks On the early morning walks weve encountered Foxes Roe Deer and Fallow Deer Badgers have only been seen at night in the headlights
The European Beaver swims in these rivers and has been seen just once by me on the lower Ardeche
Maps And Books
GUIDE BOOKS for the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
It is an unfortunate fact that the Ardeche and Tarn areas of France are not served particularly well by guide books A number of walking books and guides are available and no doubt the regions are mentioned in more general guide books to the whole of France If you do discover something then please let us know
Cevennes and Grand Causses (Crossbill Guides) by Dirk Hillbers
The Ceacutevennes National Park together with its twin the Parc Naturel des Grands Causses are among the richest natural areas in France Against a stunning background of steep cliffs extensive forests and open steppe-like plateaux the visitor can discover an exceptional wealth of flora and fauna The hundreds of kilometres of trails and tracks make it easy to explore the area with its wealth of orchids and other wildflowers its superb range of birds and butterflies The traditional medieval villages amidst the impressive mountainous country provide a relaxed starting point for exploration In other words the Ceacutevennes has everything a naturalist could wish for This nature guide is part of the renowned Crossbill Guides series for nature enthusiasts The Crossbill Guides combine interesting and insightful accounts with up-to-date and practical tourist information and observation tips Detailed descriptions of hiking trails and car routes are conveniently linked to information on everything you want to know about the what why and wherefores of the Ceacutevennes and Grands Causses splendid nature
HISTORY
The Discovery of France A Historical Geography from the Revolution to the First World War by Graham Robb
Illuminating engrossing and full of surprises The Discovery of France is a literary exploration of a country few will recognise from maps and migration to magic language and landscape itrsquos a book that reveals the real past of France to tell the whole story and history of this remarkable nation rsquoWith gloriously apposite facts and an abundance of quirky anecdotes and thumbnail sketches of people places and customs Robb on brilliant form takes us on a stunning journey through the historical landscape of Francersquo Independent lsquoCertain books strain the patience of those close to you How many times can you demand Look at this Can you imagine Did you know that Without actually handing over the volume This is such a bookrsquo Mail on Sunday rsquoAn extraordinary journey of discovery that will delight even the most indolent armchair travellerrsquo Daily Telegraph
A Concise History of France by Roger Price
This book provides a clear and well-informed guide to French history from the emergence of a strong state in the Ile-de-France in the early middle ages to the trente glorieuses following the Second World War and the Mitterrand presidency As such it provides the most up-to-date and comprehensive study of French history available Among the books central themes are the relationship between state and society the impact of war and such crucial questions as who possessed political power how this power was used in whose interests and with what consequences Roger Price examines the role of leading figures including Philip Augustus Henri IV Louis XIV the two Napoleans Clemenceau and De Gaulle as well as the lives of ordinary people A rich entertaining guide for the student and general reader
A Travellerrsquos History of France by Robert Cole
The Travellers History series is designed for the traveller who feels they need more historical background information on the country in which they are staying than can be found in an ordinary guidebook For those who want to look deeper and discover more about the roots of France its history and culture in an enjoyable read this is the book to choose Designed for easy reference it is the key to unlocking the secrets of France If you want to find about the mysterious Merovingian kings or the results of the last election if you want to know when Chartres cathedral was built or how Napoleon rose to power or when and where Princess Diana died - youll find it all in A Travellers History of France Undoubtedly the best way to prepare for a trip to France is to bone up on some history The Travellers History of France by Robert Cole is concise and gives the essential facts in a very readable form The Independent This little book is a very good idea indeed a running commentary on the complexities triumphs and tragedies of French history from the Lascaux Caves to the Pompidou centre A must for tourists who want to know what happened where The Birmingham Post A brilliant idea from Gloucestershire publishers Windrush a series of books which give a potted history of European countries Ostensibly aimed at holidaymakers the first on France is an excellent introduction for anyone who wants an idiots guide to a history that has so often intertwined with our own The Oxford Times
FICTION
Travels with a Donkey in the Ceacutevennes and the Amateur Emigrant by Robert Louis Stevenson
In 1878 Robert Louis Srtevenson was suffereing from poor health struggling to survive on the income derived from his writings and tormented by his infatuation with Fanny Osbourne a married American woman His response was to embark on a journey through the Cevennes with a donkey Modestine and a notebook which he later transformed into lsquoTravels with a Donkeyrsquo Just a few months after publication Stevenson was off again - this time crossing the Atlantic and the breadth of America in the hope of being re-united with Fanny an experince he recored in the lsquoThe Amateur Emigrantrsquo Both pieces are classics of travel writing which reveal as much about Stevensonrsquos character as the landscape he travels through
MAPS
Many types of maps are available for this region but I recommend those produced by the Institute Geographique Nationale (IGN)
They have two series of walking maps which are suitable for our canoeing needs
The Top25 series is at a scale of 4cm to the km and the Top100 series is at a scale of 1cm to the km
For the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
TOP25 IGN 2640OT Gorges du Tarn et de la JonteCausse MejeanPn des Cevennes (GPS)
TOP100 IGN 162 RodezMillau
TOP25 IGN 2939OT Gorges de lArdecheBourg-Saint-AndeolVallon-Pont-DArc (Gps)
This map doesnrsquot cover the Gardon Ceze Chassezac or the upper Ardeche just the Gorge of the Ardeche
TOP100 IGN 163 AvignonNimes
This map covers all the rivers on the trip
These maps are available to buy online at IGN and at the usual online book shops
I would recommend the TOP100 maps We have all these maps with us on the trips
G R E E N R I V E R
Green River CanoesWe provide Guided Inn-to-Inn Canoeing Holidays to the south of France in the Perigord Lot Ardeche and Tarn regions
We provide hand-crafted vacations to combine a pleasant activity canoeing with an insight into the regional history and natural history whilst enjoying the local foods and wines
All our holidays comprise of mostly canoeing with some (often optional) hiking The itinerary is planned but is flexible enough to be changed on the day if required
All our holidays are guided Our guests will be accompanied on the river and trail by an experienced guide who knows the area and rivers well Our other guide will accompany us in the background by driving our vehicle between lodgings When necessary this vehicle will be transferring our luggage meeting with us for lunch and generally being available as and when needed
Hotel Doussiare
For the eighth night we stay at the Hotel DoussiAtildeumlre in Le Rozier The hotel is next to the River Jonte which joins the Tarn and has terraces overlooking the river where we shall dine in the evening
A walk around the village in the evening is well worth the effort as it sits at the junction of two dramatic valleys
Hotel Belved
For the tenth night we stay at the Hotel Belved just south of Vallons Pont DArc in the Ardeche Gorge itself This comfortable place has a small pool for our use and we shall dine here probably on the terrace this evening
After dinner we can walk a short distance down the road to some riverside camp-sites where we may be able to find some entertainment or at least a refreshing beer or two
Hotel BelvedHotel Douiare
What We See
CAVES
The newly opened (2015) Chauvet caves are a replica of those cave discovered in 1994 near the Pont DrsquoArc The replica like that at Lascaux allows visitors to see the ancient cave paintings without damaging the originals b y exposing them to the atmosphere These spectacular paintings are some of the oldest in Europe and some are 40000 years old and feature animals not seen before in other caves
Aven drsquoOrgnac these caves with interesting geological features are in the Ardeche
LE PLUS BEAUX VILLAGE DE FRANCE
Sainte-Enimie on the banks of the Tarn river
Aiguegraveze overlooking the Ardeche river
Balazuc just above the defiles on the Ardeche river
La Roque-sur-Cegraveze on the banks of the Ceze
Montclus on the banks of the Ceze rive
Voguumleacute on the Ardeche river
Canoeing
All the canoes for the trips are provided by us and include paddles and a life-jacket The price is included in the trip
We always prefer open Canadian style canoes which are paddled in tandem - with two people aboard (usually) If you prefer to paddle solo then this can be arranged These canoes are especially suited for the calm water conditions we will be paddling on and are stable and safe They allow plenty of room for yourself and your stuff
From time to time we get clients who wish to paddle a Kayak We can arrange this for you if you prefer but we do stress that the
rivers we canoe do not really warrant the use of a kayak and we feel tandem paddling in a canoe is the way to go
Most of our clients have been canoeing before but we will insist on reviewing safety procedures at the beginning of paddling each day and revise paddling strokes for those who havent paddled for a while or have paddled on lakes rather than rivers for example
For those who have never paddled before their will be plenty of time for lessons as we go These rivers are ideal places for learning
If time and the inclination allows we can also practise other paddling procedures such as Eddy Turns Peeling Out and Ferrying
The clients will not be expected to lift or carry canoes at any time
Hiking
Although the main focus of the trips will be on the canoeing we will have plenty of time for short walks and longer hikes
Where possible we will walk to and from the river although this is not compulsory
In the appropriate season when early mornings are light we can opt to go for a pre-breakfast walk The length and timing of the walk will depend on a consensus reached between those that wish to walk how early we wish to rise and the time of year
Some of the trails we walk on form part of the network of long-distance paths that criss-cross France These are known as Grand Randonees (GR) and are way-marked by a red and white flash We may walk on the GR4 (which goes from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic) passing through the Ardeche We will walk on the GR70 (the famous Robert Louis Stevenson) which
crosses the Cevennes and also possibly the GR6 which traverse the Tarn
Wildlife
On the river we will see plenty of bird-life both on and around the water We will see Ducks and Herons We will also see Kingfishers Wagtails Dippers and Sandpipers We will see Swal lows and Swi f ts and Martins as well as various other birds crossing our path such as Woodpeckers Jays and other crows as well as the
almost invisible songbirds in the tree and hedges Of the raptors we will see the Common Buzzard and possibly an Osprey or a Kestrel
This area of France has a rich variety of Butterflies and we will see many familiar species (if you are from Britain) We will also see some rather more exotic species such as the two types of Swallowtail the Cleopatra the Banded Grayling and if we are lucky some rarer species such as the Large Blue or the Lesser Purple Emperor or Festoons
The river itself will provide m a n y e x a m p l e s o f t h e Dragonfly and Damselfly family The delicate damsels include the Western Demoiselle the White-Legged the Orange F e a t h e r l e g t h e B l u e Featherleg and various Bluets and Bluetails Of the dragons w e m a y s e e t h e S m a l l Pincertail the Yellow Clubtail
the Pronged Clubtail and the Common Clubtai l amongst others
We will also be able to see many flowers especially early in the season before the meadows are cut and these will include several orchids s u c h a s t h e P u r p l e t h e Pyramid the Bee and the Lizard Orchids
Of course we will also see many trees and shrubs along the river course and in the forests We can have some fun trying to identify them
Of the reptiles we will probably see lizards and hear frogs We sometimes see a Grass Snake swimming in the river (harmless) and sometimes a Viper (the only venomous snake which is small 18 inches long and not very poisonous)
The hardest things to see are the mammals We have seen Nutria and Otters on these rivers and weve also glimpsed Red Squirrels and Mink and Martens along the banks On the early morning walks weve encountered Foxes Roe Deer and Fallow Deer Badgers have only been seen at night in the headlights
The European Beaver swims in these rivers and has been seen just once by me on the lower Ardeche
Maps And Books
GUIDE BOOKS for the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
It is an unfortunate fact that the Ardeche and Tarn areas of France are not served particularly well by guide books A number of walking books and guides are available and no doubt the regions are mentioned in more general guide books to the whole of France If you do discover something then please let us know
Cevennes and Grand Causses (Crossbill Guides) by Dirk Hillbers
The Ceacutevennes National Park together with its twin the Parc Naturel des Grands Causses are among the richest natural areas in France Against a stunning background of steep cliffs extensive forests and open steppe-like plateaux the visitor can discover an exceptional wealth of flora and fauna The hundreds of kilometres of trails and tracks make it easy to explore the area with its wealth of orchids and other wildflowers its superb range of birds and butterflies The traditional medieval villages amidst the impressive mountainous country provide a relaxed starting point for exploration In other words the Ceacutevennes has everything a naturalist could wish for This nature guide is part of the renowned Crossbill Guides series for nature enthusiasts The Crossbill Guides combine interesting and insightful accounts with up-to-date and practical tourist information and observation tips Detailed descriptions of hiking trails and car routes are conveniently linked to information on everything you want to know about the what why and wherefores of the Ceacutevennes and Grands Causses splendid nature
HISTORY
The Discovery of France A Historical Geography from the Revolution to the First World War by Graham Robb
Illuminating engrossing and full of surprises The Discovery of France is a literary exploration of a country few will recognise from maps and migration to magic language and landscape itrsquos a book that reveals the real past of France to tell the whole story and history of this remarkable nation rsquoWith gloriously apposite facts and an abundance of quirky anecdotes and thumbnail sketches of people places and customs Robb on brilliant form takes us on a stunning journey through the historical landscape of Francersquo Independent lsquoCertain books strain the patience of those close to you How many times can you demand Look at this Can you imagine Did you know that Without actually handing over the volume This is such a bookrsquo Mail on Sunday rsquoAn extraordinary journey of discovery that will delight even the most indolent armchair travellerrsquo Daily Telegraph
A Concise History of France by Roger Price
This book provides a clear and well-informed guide to French history from the emergence of a strong state in the Ile-de-France in the early middle ages to the trente glorieuses following the Second World War and the Mitterrand presidency As such it provides the most up-to-date and comprehensive study of French history available Among the books central themes are the relationship between state and society the impact of war and such crucial questions as who possessed political power how this power was used in whose interests and with what consequences Roger Price examines the role of leading figures including Philip Augustus Henri IV Louis XIV the two Napoleans Clemenceau and De Gaulle as well as the lives of ordinary people A rich entertaining guide for the student and general reader
A Travellerrsquos History of France by Robert Cole
The Travellers History series is designed for the traveller who feels they need more historical background information on the country in which they are staying than can be found in an ordinary guidebook For those who want to look deeper and discover more about the roots of France its history and culture in an enjoyable read this is the book to choose Designed for easy reference it is the key to unlocking the secrets of France If you want to find about the mysterious Merovingian kings or the results of the last election if you want to know when Chartres cathedral was built or how Napoleon rose to power or when and where Princess Diana died - youll find it all in A Travellers History of France Undoubtedly the best way to prepare for a trip to France is to bone up on some history The Travellers History of France by Robert Cole is concise and gives the essential facts in a very readable form The Independent This little book is a very good idea indeed a running commentary on the complexities triumphs and tragedies of French history from the Lascaux Caves to the Pompidou centre A must for tourists who want to know what happened where The Birmingham Post A brilliant idea from Gloucestershire publishers Windrush a series of books which give a potted history of European countries Ostensibly aimed at holidaymakers the first on France is an excellent introduction for anyone who wants an idiots guide to a history that has so often intertwined with our own The Oxford Times
FICTION
Travels with a Donkey in the Ceacutevennes and the Amateur Emigrant by Robert Louis Stevenson
In 1878 Robert Louis Srtevenson was suffereing from poor health struggling to survive on the income derived from his writings and tormented by his infatuation with Fanny Osbourne a married American woman His response was to embark on a journey through the Cevennes with a donkey Modestine and a notebook which he later transformed into lsquoTravels with a Donkeyrsquo Just a few months after publication Stevenson was off again - this time crossing the Atlantic and the breadth of America in the hope of being re-united with Fanny an experince he recored in the lsquoThe Amateur Emigrantrsquo Both pieces are classics of travel writing which reveal as much about Stevensonrsquos character as the landscape he travels through
MAPS
Many types of maps are available for this region but I recommend those produced by the Institute Geographique Nationale (IGN)
They have two series of walking maps which are suitable for our canoeing needs
The Top25 series is at a scale of 4cm to the km and the Top100 series is at a scale of 1cm to the km
For the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
TOP25 IGN 2640OT Gorges du Tarn et de la JonteCausse MejeanPn des Cevennes (GPS)
TOP100 IGN 162 RodezMillau
TOP25 IGN 2939OT Gorges de lArdecheBourg-Saint-AndeolVallon-Pont-DArc (Gps)
This map doesnrsquot cover the Gardon Ceze Chassezac or the upper Ardeche just the Gorge of the Ardeche
TOP100 IGN 163 AvignonNimes
This map covers all the rivers on the trip
These maps are available to buy online at IGN and at the usual online book shops
I would recommend the TOP100 maps We have all these maps with us on the trips
G R E E N R I V E R
Green River CanoesWe provide Guided Inn-to-Inn Canoeing Holidays to the south of France in the Perigord Lot Ardeche and Tarn regions
We provide hand-crafted vacations to combine a pleasant activity canoeing with an insight into the regional history and natural history whilst enjoying the local foods and wines
All our holidays comprise of mostly canoeing with some (often optional) hiking The itinerary is planned but is flexible enough to be changed on the day if required
All our holidays are guided Our guests will be accompanied on the river and trail by an experienced guide who knows the area and rivers well Our other guide will accompany us in the background by driving our vehicle between lodgings When necessary this vehicle will be transferring our luggage meeting with us for lunch and generally being available as and when needed
What We See
CAVES
The newly opened (2015) Chauvet caves are a replica of those cave discovered in 1994 near the Pont DrsquoArc The replica like that at Lascaux allows visitors to see the ancient cave paintings without damaging the originals b y exposing them to the atmosphere These spectacular paintings are some of the oldest in Europe and some are 40000 years old and feature animals not seen before in other caves
Aven drsquoOrgnac these caves with interesting geological features are in the Ardeche
LE PLUS BEAUX VILLAGE DE FRANCE
Sainte-Enimie on the banks of the Tarn river
Aiguegraveze overlooking the Ardeche river
Balazuc just above the defiles on the Ardeche river
La Roque-sur-Cegraveze on the banks of the Ceze
Montclus on the banks of the Ceze rive
Voguumleacute on the Ardeche river
Canoeing
All the canoes for the trips are provided by us and include paddles and a life-jacket The price is included in the trip
We always prefer open Canadian style canoes which are paddled in tandem - with two people aboard (usually) If you prefer to paddle solo then this can be arranged These canoes are especially suited for the calm water conditions we will be paddling on and are stable and safe They allow plenty of room for yourself and your stuff
From time to time we get clients who wish to paddle a Kayak We can arrange this for you if you prefer but we do stress that the
rivers we canoe do not really warrant the use of a kayak and we feel tandem paddling in a canoe is the way to go
Most of our clients have been canoeing before but we will insist on reviewing safety procedures at the beginning of paddling each day and revise paddling strokes for those who havent paddled for a while or have paddled on lakes rather than rivers for example
For those who have never paddled before their will be plenty of time for lessons as we go These rivers are ideal places for learning
If time and the inclination allows we can also practise other paddling procedures such as Eddy Turns Peeling Out and Ferrying
The clients will not be expected to lift or carry canoes at any time
Hiking
Although the main focus of the trips will be on the canoeing we will have plenty of time for short walks and longer hikes
Where possible we will walk to and from the river although this is not compulsory
In the appropriate season when early mornings are light we can opt to go for a pre-breakfast walk The length and timing of the walk will depend on a consensus reached between those that wish to walk how early we wish to rise and the time of year
Some of the trails we walk on form part of the network of long-distance paths that criss-cross France These are known as Grand Randonees (GR) and are way-marked by a red and white flash We may walk on the GR4 (which goes from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic) passing through the Ardeche We will walk on the GR70 (the famous Robert Louis Stevenson) which
crosses the Cevennes and also possibly the GR6 which traverse the Tarn
Wildlife
On the river we will see plenty of bird-life both on and around the water We will see Ducks and Herons We will also see Kingfishers Wagtails Dippers and Sandpipers We will see Swal lows and Swi f ts and Martins as well as various other birds crossing our path such as Woodpeckers Jays and other crows as well as the
almost invisible songbirds in the tree and hedges Of the raptors we will see the Common Buzzard and possibly an Osprey or a Kestrel
This area of France has a rich variety of Butterflies and we will see many familiar species (if you are from Britain) We will also see some rather more exotic species such as the two types of Swallowtail the Cleopatra the Banded Grayling and if we are lucky some rarer species such as the Large Blue or the Lesser Purple Emperor or Festoons
The river itself will provide m a n y e x a m p l e s o f t h e Dragonfly and Damselfly family The delicate damsels include the Western Demoiselle the White-Legged the Orange F e a t h e r l e g t h e B l u e Featherleg and various Bluets and Bluetails Of the dragons w e m a y s e e t h e S m a l l Pincertail the Yellow Clubtail
the Pronged Clubtail and the Common Clubtai l amongst others
We will also be able to see many flowers especially early in the season before the meadows are cut and these will include several orchids s u c h a s t h e P u r p l e t h e Pyramid the Bee and the Lizard Orchids
Of course we will also see many trees and shrubs along the river course and in the forests We can have some fun trying to identify them
Of the reptiles we will probably see lizards and hear frogs We sometimes see a Grass Snake swimming in the river (harmless) and sometimes a Viper (the only venomous snake which is small 18 inches long and not very poisonous)
The hardest things to see are the mammals We have seen Nutria and Otters on these rivers and weve also glimpsed Red Squirrels and Mink and Martens along the banks On the early morning walks weve encountered Foxes Roe Deer and Fallow Deer Badgers have only been seen at night in the headlights
The European Beaver swims in these rivers and has been seen just once by me on the lower Ardeche
Maps And Books
GUIDE BOOKS for the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
It is an unfortunate fact that the Ardeche and Tarn areas of France are not served particularly well by guide books A number of walking books and guides are available and no doubt the regions are mentioned in more general guide books to the whole of France If you do discover something then please let us know
Cevennes and Grand Causses (Crossbill Guides) by Dirk Hillbers
The Ceacutevennes National Park together with its twin the Parc Naturel des Grands Causses are among the richest natural areas in France Against a stunning background of steep cliffs extensive forests and open steppe-like plateaux the visitor can discover an exceptional wealth of flora and fauna The hundreds of kilometres of trails and tracks make it easy to explore the area with its wealth of orchids and other wildflowers its superb range of birds and butterflies The traditional medieval villages amidst the impressive mountainous country provide a relaxed starting point for exploration In other words the Ceacutevennes has everything a naturalist could wish for This nature guide is part of the renowned Crossbill Guides series for nature enthusiasts The Crossbill Guides combine interesting and insightful accounts with up-to-date and practical tourist information and observation tips Detailed descriptions of hiking trails and car routes are conveniently linked to information on everything you want to know about the what why and wherefores of the Ceacutevennes and Grands Causses splendid nature
HISTORY
The Discovery of France A Historical Geography from the Revolution to the First World War by Graham Robb
Illuminating engrossing and full of surprises The Discovery of France is a literary exploration of a country few will recognise from maps and migration to magic language and landscape itrsquos a book that reveals the real past of France to tell the whole story and history of this remarkable nation rsquoWith gloriously apposite facts and an abundance of quirky anecdotes and thumbnail sketches of people places and customs Robb on brilliant form takes us on a stunning journey through the historical landscape of Francersquo Independent lsquoCertain books strain the patience of those close to you How many times can you demand Look at this Can you imagine Did you know that Without actually handing over the volume This is such a bookrsquo Mail on Sunday rsquoAn extraordinary journey of discovery that will delight even the most indolent armchair travellerrsquo Daily Telegraph
A Concise History of France by Roger Price
This book provides a clear and well-informed guide to French history from the emergence of a strong state in the Ile-de-France in the early middle ages to the trente glorieuses following the Second World War and the Mitterrand presidency As such it provides the most up-to-date and comprehensive study of French history available Among the books central themes are the relationship between state and society the impact of war and such crucial questions as who possessed political power how this power was used in whose interests and with what consequences Roger Price examines the role of leading figures including Philip Augustus Henri IV Louis XIV the two Napoleans Clemenceau and De Gaulle as well as the lives of ordinary people A rich entertaining guide for the student and general reader
A Travellerrsquos History of France by Robert Cole
The Travellers History series is designed for the traveller who feels they need more historical background information on the country in which they are staying than can be found in an ordinary guidebook For those who want to look deeper and discover more about the roots of France its history and culture in an enjoyable read this is the book to choose Designed for easy reference it is the key to unlocking the secrets of France If you want to find about the mysterious Merovingian kings or the results of the last election if you want to know when Chartres cathedral was built or how Napoleon rose to power or when and where Princess Diana died - youll find it all in A Travellers History of France Undoubtedly the best way to prepare for a trip to France is to bone up on some history The Travellers History of France by Robert Cole is concise and gives the essential facts in a very readable form The Independent This little book is a very good idea indeed a running commentary on the complexities triumphs and tragedies of French history from the Lascaux Caves to the Pompidou centre A must for tourists who want to know what happened where The Birmingham Post A brilliant idea from Gloucestershire publishers Windrush a series of books which give a potted history of European countries Ostensibly aimed at holidaymakers the first on France is an excellent introduction for anyone who wants an idiots guide to a history that has so often intertwined with our own The Oxford Times
FICTION
Travels with a Donkey in the Ceacutevennes and the Amateur Emigrant by Robert Louis Stevenson
In 1878 Robert Louis Srtevenson was suffereing from poor health struggling to survive on the income derived from his writings and tormented by his infatuation with Fanny Osbourne a married American woman His response was to embark on a journey through the Cevennes with a donkey Modestine and a notebook which he later transformed into lsquoTravels with a Donkeyrsquo Just a few months after publication Stevenson was off again - this time crossing the Atlantic and the breadth of America in the hope of being re-united with Fanny an experince he recored in the lsquoThe Amateur Emigrantrsquo Both pieces are classics of travel writing which reveal as much about Stevensonrsquos character as the landscape he travels through
MAPS
Many types of maps are available for this region but I recommend those produced by the Institute Geographique Nationale (IGN)
They have two series of walking maps which are suitable for our canoeing needs
The Top25 series is at a scale of 4cm to the km and the Top100 series is at a scale of 1cm to the km
For the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
TOP25 IGN 2640OT Gorges du Tarn et de la JonteCausse MejeanPn des Cevennes (GPS)
TOP100 IGN 162 RodezMillau
TOP25 IGN 2939OT Gorges de lArdecheBourg-Saint-AndeolVallon-Pont-DArc (Gps)
This map doesnrsquot cover the Gardon Ceze Chassezac or the upper Ardeche just the Gorge of the Ardeche
TOP100 IGN 163 AvignonNimes
This map covers all the rivers on the trip
These maps are available to buy online at IGN and at the usual online book shops
I would recommend the TOP100 maps We have all these maps with us on the trips
G R E E N R I V E R
Green River CanoesWe provide Guided Inn-to-Inn Canoeing Holidays to the south of France in the Perigord Lot Ardeche and Tarn regions
We provide hand-crafted vacations to combine a pleasant activity canoeing with an insight into the regional history and natural history whilst enjoying the local foods and wines
All our holidays comprise of mostly canoeing with some (often optional) hiking The itinerary is planned but is flexible enough to be changed on the day if required
All our holidays are guided Our guests will be accompanied on the river and trail by an experienced guide who knows the area and rivers well Our other guide will accompany us in the background by driving our vehicle between lodgings When necessary this vehicle will be transferring our luggage meeting with us for lunch and generally being available as and when needed
Canoeing
All the canoes for the trips are provided by us and include paddles and a life-jacket The price is included in the trip
We always prefer open Canadian style canoes which are paddled in tandem - with two people aboard (usually) If you prefer to paddle solo then this can be arranged These canoes are especially suited for the calm water conditions we will be paddling on and are stable and safe They allow plenty of room for yourself and your stuff
From time to time we get clients who wish to paddle a Kayak We can arrange this for you if you prefer but we do stress that the
rivers we canoe do not really warrant the use of a kayak and we feel tandem paddling in a canoe is the way to go
Most of our clients have been canoeing before but we will insist on reviewing safety procedures at the beginning of paddling each day and revise paddling strokes for those who havent paddled for a while or have paddled on lakes rather than rivers for example
For those who have never paddled before their will be plenty of time for lessons as we go These rivers are ideal places for learning
If time and the inclination allows we can also practise other paddling procedures such as Eddy Turns Peeling Out and Ferrying
The clients will not be expected to lift or carry canoes at any time
Hiking
Although the main focus of the trips will be on the canoeing we will have plenty of time for short walks and longer hikes
Where possible we will walk to and from the river although this is not compulsory
In the appropriate season when early mornings are light we can opt to go for a pre-breakfast walk The length and timing of the walk will depend on a consensus reached between those that wish to walk how early we wish to rise and the time of year
Some of the trails we walk on form part of the network of long-distance paths that criss-cross France These are known as Grand Randonees (GR) and are way-marked by a red and white flash We may walk on the GR4 (which goes from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic) passing through the Ardeche We will walk on the GR70 (the famous Robert Louis Stevenson) which
crosses the Cevennes and also possibly the GR6 which traverse the Tarn
Wildlife
On the river we will see plenty of bird-life both on and around the water We will see Ducks and Herons We will also see Kingfishers Wagtails Dippers and Sandpipers We will see Swal lows and Swi f ts and Martins as well as various other birds crossing our path such as Woodpeckers Jays and other crows as well as the
almost invisible songbirds in the tree and hedges Of the raptors we will see the Common Buzzard and possibly an Osprey or a Kestrel
This area of France has a rich variety of Butterflies and we will see many familiar species (if you are from Britain) We will also see some rather more exotic species such as the two types of Swallowtail the Cleopatra the Banded Grayling and if we are lucky some rarer species such as the Large Blue or the Lesser Purple Emperor or Festoons
The river itself will provide m a n y e x a m p l e s o f t h e Dragonfly and Damselfly family The delicate damsels include the Western Demoiselle the White-Legged the Orange F e a t h e r l e g t h e B l u e Featherleg and various Bluets and Bluetails Of the dragons w e m a y s e e t h e S m a l l Pincertail the Yellow Clubtail
the Pronged Clubtail and the Common Clubtai l amongst others
We will also be able to see many flowers especially early in the season before the meadows are cut and these will include several orchids s u c h a s t h e P u r p l e t h e Pyramid the Bee and the Lizard Orchids
Of course we will also see many trees and shrubs along the river course and in the forests We can have some fun trying to identify them
Of the reptiles we will probably see lizards and hear frogs We sometimes see a Grass Snake swimming in the river (harmless) and sometimes a Viper (the only venomous snake which is small 18 inches long and not very poisonous)
The hardest things to see are the mammals We have seen Nutria and Otters on these rivers and weve also glimpsed Red Squirrels and Mink and Martens along the banks On the early morning walks weve encountered Foxes Roe Deer and Fallow Deer Badgers have only been seen at night in the headlights
The European Beaver swims in these rivers and has been seen just once by me on the lower Ardeche
Maps And Books
GUIDE BOOKS for the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
It is an unfortunate fact that the Ardeche and Tarn areas of France are not served particularly well by guide books A number of walking books and guides are available and no doubt the regions are mentioned in more general guide books to the whole of France If you do discover something then please let us know
Cevennes and Grand Causses (Crossbill Guides) by Dirk Hillbers
The Ceacutevennes National Park together with its twin the Parc Naturel des Grands Causses are among the richest natural areas in France Against a stunning background of steep cliffs extensive forests and open steppe-like plateaux the visitor can discover an exceptional wealth of flora and fauna The hundreds of kilometres of trails and tracks make it easy to explore the area with its wealth of orchids and other wildflowers its superb range of birds and butterflies The traditional medieval villages amidst the impressive mountainous country provide a relaxed starting point for exploration In other words the Ceacutevennes has everything a naturalist could wish for This nature guide is part of the renowned Crossbill Guides series for nature enthusiasts The Crossbill Guides combine interesting and insightful accounts with up-to-date and practical tourist information and observation tips Detailed descriptions of hiking trails and car routes are conveniently linked to information on everything you want to know about the what why and wherefores of the Ceacutevennes and Grands Causses splendid nature
HISTORY
The Discovery of France A Historical Geography from the Revolution to the First World War by Graham Robb
Illuminating engrossing and full of surprises The Discovery of France is a literary exploration of a country few will recognise from maps and migration to magic language and landscape itrsquos a book that reveals the real past of France to tell the whole story and history of this remarkable nation rsquoWith gloriously apposite facts and an abundance of quirky anecdotes and thumbnail sketches of people places and customs Robb on brilliant form takes us on a stunning journey through the historical landscape of Francersquo Independent lsquoCertain books strain the patience of those close to you How many times can you demand Look at this Can you imagine Did you know that Without actually handing over the volume This is such a bookrsquo Mail on Sunday rsquoAn extraordinary journey of discovery that will delight even the most indolent armchair travellerrsquo Daily Telegraph
A Concise History of France by Roger Price
This book provides a clear and well-informed guide to French history from the emergence of a strong state in the Ile-de-France in the early middle ages to the trente glorieuses following the Second World War and the Mitterrand presidency As such it provides the most up-to-date and comprehensive study of French history available Among the books central themes are the relationship between state and society the impact of war and such crucial questions as who possessed political power how this power was used in whose interests and with what consequences Roger Price examines the role of leading figures including Philip Augustus Henri IV Louis XIV the two Napoleans Clemenceau and De Gaulle as well as the lives of ordinary people A rich entertaining guide for the student and general reader
A Travellerrsquos History of France by Robert Cole
The Travellers History series is designed for the traveller who feels they need more historical background information on the country in which they are staying than can be found in an ordinary guidebook For those who want to look deeper and discover more about the roots of France its history and culture in an enjoyable read this is the book to choose Designed for easy reference it is the key to unlocking the secrets of France If you want to find about the mysterious Merovingian kings or the results of the last election if you want to know when Chartres cathedral was built or how Napoleon rose to power or when and where Princess Diana died - youll find it all in A Travellers History of France Undoubtedly the best way to prepare for a trip to France is to bone up on some history The Travellers History of France by Robert Cole is concise and gives the essential facts in a very readable form The Independent This little book is a very good idea indeed a running commentary on the complexities triumphs and tragedies of French history from the Lascaux Caves to the Pompidou centre A must for tourists who want to know what happened where The Birmingham Post A brilliant idea from Gloucestershire publishers Windrush a series of books which give a potted history of European countries Ostensibly aimed at holidaymakers the first on France is an excellent introduction for anyone who wants an idiots guide to a history that has so often intertwined with our own The Oxford Times
FICTION
Travels with a Donkey in the Ceacutevennes and the Amateur Emigrant by Robert Louis Stevenson
In 1878 Robert Louis Srtevenson was suffereing from poor health struggling to survive on the income derived from his writings and tormented by his infatuation with Fanny Osbourne a married American woman His response was to embark on a journey through the Cevennes with a donkey Modestine and a notebook which he later transformed into lsquoTravels with a Donkeyrsquo Just a few months after publication Stevenson was off again - this time crossing the Atlantic and the breadth of America in the hope of being re-united with Fanny an experince he recored in the lsquoThe Amateur Emigrantrsquo Both pieces are classics of travel writing which reveal as much about Stevensonrsquos character as the landscape he travels through
MAPS
Many types of maps are available for this region but I recommend those produced by the Institute Geographique Nationale (IGN)
They have two series of walking maps which are suitable for our canoeing needs
The Top25 series is at a scale of 4cm to the km and the Top100 series is at a scale of 1cm to the km
For the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
TOP25 IGN 2640OT Gorges du Tarn et de la JonteCausse MejeanPn des Cevennes (GPS)
TOP100 IGN 162 RodezMillau
TOP25 IGN 2939OT Gorges de lArdecheBourg-Saint-AndeolVallon-Pont-DArc (Gps)
This map doesnrsquot cover the Gardon Ceze Chassezac or the upper Ardeche just the Gorge of the Ardeche
TOP100 IGN 163 AvignonNimes
This map covers all the rivers on the trip
These maps are available to buy online at IGN and at the usual online book shops
I would recommend the TOP100 maps We have all these maps with us on the trips
G R E E N R I V E R
Green River CanoesWe provide Guided Inn-to-Inn Canoeing Holidays to the south of France in the Perigord Lot Ardeche and Tarn regions
We provide hand-crafted vacations to combine a pleasant activity canoeing with an insight into the regional history and natural history whilst enjoying the local foods and wines
All our holidays comprise of mostly canoeing with some (often optional) hiking The itinerary is planned but is flexible enough to be changed on the day if required
All our holidays are guided Our guests will be accompanied on the river and trail by an experienced guide who knows the area and rivers well Our other guide will accompany us in the background by driving our vehicle between lodgings When necessary this vehicle will be transferring our luggage meeting with us for lunch and generally being available as and when needed
rivers we canoe do not really warrant the use of a kayak and we feel tandem paddling in a canoe is the way to go
Most of our clients have been canoeing before but we will insist on reviewing safety procedures at the beginning of paddling each day and revise paddling strokes for those who havent paddled for a while or have paddled on lakes rather than rivers for example
For those who have never paddled before their will be plenty of time for lessons as we go These rivers are ideal places for learning
If time and the inclination allows we can also practise other paddling procedures such as Eddy Turns Peeling Out and Ferrying
The clients will not be expected to lift or carry canoes at any time
Hiking
Although the main focus of the trips will be on the canoeing we will have plenty of time for short walks and longer hikes
Where possible we will walk to and from the river although this is not compulsory
In the appropriate season when early mornings are light we can opt to go for a pre-breakfast walk The length and timing of the walk will depend on a consensus reached between those that wish to walk how early we wish to rise and the time of year
Some of the trails we walk on form part of the network of long-distance paths that criss-cross France These are known as Grand Randonees (GR) and are way-marked by a red and white flash We may walk on the GR4 (which goes from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic) passing through the Ardeche We will walk on the GR70 (the famous Robert Louis Stevenson) which
crosses the Cevennes and also possibly the GR6 which traverse the Tarn
Wildlife
On the river we will see plenty of bird-life both on and around the water We will see Ducks and Herons We will also see Kingfishers Wagtails Dippers and Sandpipers We will see Swal lows and Swi f ts and Martins as well as various other birds crossing our path such as Woodpeckers Jays and other crows as well as the
almost invisible songbirds in the tree and hedges Of the raptors we will see the Common Buzzard and possibly an Osprey or a Kestrel
This area of France has a rich variety of Butterflies and we will see many familiar species (if you are from Britain) We will also see some rather more exotic species such as the two types of Swallowtail the Cleopatra the Banded Grayling and if we are lucky some rarer species such as the Large Blue or the Lesser Purple Emperor or Festoons
The river itself will provide m a n y e x a m p l e s o f t h e Dragonfly and Damselfly family The delicate damsels include the Western Demoiselle the White-Legged the Orange F e a t h e r l e g t h e B l u e Featherleg and various Bluets and Bluetails Of the dragons w e m a y s e e t h e S m a l l Pincertail the Yellow Clubtail
the Pronged Clubtail and the Common Clubtai l amongst others
We will also be able to see many flowers especially early in the season before the meadows are cut and these will include several orchids s u c h a s t h e P u r p l e t h e Pyramid the Bee and the Lizard Orchids
Of course we will also see many trees and shrubs along the river course and in the forests We can have some fun trying to identify them
Of the reptiles we will probably see lizards and hear frogs We sometimes see a Grass Snake swimming in the river (harmless) and sometimes a Viper (the only venomous snake which is small 18 inches long and not very poisonous)
The hardest things to see are the mammals We have seen Nutria and Otters on these rivers and weve also glimpsed Red Squirrels and Mink and Martens along the banks On the early morning walks weve encountered Foxes Roe Deer and Fallow Deer Badgers have only been seen at night in the headlights
The European Beaver swims in these rivers and has been seen just once by me on the lower Ardeche
Maps And Books
GUIDE BOOKS for the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
It is an unfortunate fact that the Ardeche and Tarn areas of France are not served particularly well by guide books A number of walking books and guides are available and no doubt the regions are mentioned in more general guide books to the whole of France If you do discover something then please let us know
Cevennes and Grand Causses (Crossbill Guides) by Dirk Hillbers
The Ceacutevennes National Park together with its twin the Parc Naturel des Grands Causses are among the richest natural areas in France Against a stunning background of steep cliffs extensive forests and open steppe-like plateaux the visitor can discover an exceptional wealth of flora and fauna The hundreds of kilometres of trails and tracks make it easy to explore the area with its wealth of orchids and other wildflowers its superb range of birds and butterflies The traditional medieval villages amidst the impressive mountainous country provide a relaxed starting point for exploration In other words the Ceacutevennes has everything a naturalist could wish for This nature guide is part of the renowned Crossbill Guides series for nature enthusiasts The Crossbill Guides combine interesting and insightful accounts with up-to-date and practical tourist information and observation tips Detailed descriptions of hiking trails and car routes are conveniently linked to information on everything you want to know about the what why and wherefores of the Ceacutevennes and Grands Causses splendid nature
HISTORY
The Discovery of France A Historical Geography from the Revolution to the First World War by Graham Robb
Illuminating engrossing and full of surprises The Discovery of France is a literary exploration of a country few will recognise from maps and migration to magic language and landscape itrsquos a book that reveals the real past of France to tell the whole story and history of this remarkable nation rsquoWith gloriously apposite facts and an abundance of quirky anecdotes and thumbnail sketches of people places and customs Robb on brilliant form takes us on a stunning journey through the historical landscape of Francersquo Independent lsquoCertain books strain the patience of those close to you How many times can you demand Look at this Can you imagine Did you know that Without actually handing over the volume This is such a bookrsquo Mail on Sunday rsquoAn extraordinary journey of discovery that will delight even the most indolent armchair travellerrsquo Daily Telegraph
A Concise History of France by Roger Price
This book provides a clear and well-informed guide to French history from the emergence of a strong state in the Ile-de-France in the early middle ages to the trente glorieuses following the Second World War and the Mitterrand presidency As such it provides the most up-to-date and comprehensive study of French history available Among the books central themes are the relationship between state and society the impact of war and such crucial questions as who possessed political power how this power was used in whose interests and with what consequences Roger Price examines the role of leading figures including Philip Augustus Henri IV Louis XIV the two Napoleans Clemenceau and De Gaulle as well as the lives of ordinary people A rich entertaining guide for the student and general reader
A Travellerrsquos History of France by Robert Cole
The Travellers History series is designed for the traveller who feels they need more historical background information on the country in which they are staying than can be found in an ordinary guidebook For those who want to look deeper and discover more about the roots of France its history and culture in an enjoyable read this is the book to choose Designed for easy reference it is the key to unlocking the secrets of France If you want to find about the mysterious Merovingian kings or the results of the last election if you want to know when Chartres cathedral was built or how Napoleon rose to power or when and where Princess Diana died - youll find it all in A Travellers History of France Undoubtedly the best way to prepare for a trip to France is to bone up on some history The Travellers History of France by Robert Cole is concise and gives the essential facts in a very readable form The Independent This little book is a very good idea indeed a running commentary on the complexities triumphs and tragedies of French history from the Lascaux Caves to the Pompidou centre A must for tourists who want to know what happened where The Birmingham Post A brilliant idea from Gloucestershire publishers Windrush a series of books which give a potted history of European countries Ostensibly aimed at holidaymakers the first on France is an excellent introduction for anyone who wants an idiots guide to a history that has so often intertwined with our own The Oxford Times
FICTION
Travels with a Donkey in the Ceacutevennes and the Amateur Emigrant by Robert Louis Stevenson
In 1878 Robert Louis Srtevenson was suffereing from poor health struggling to survive on the income derived from his writings and tormented by his infatuation with Fanny Osbourne a married American woman His response was to embark on a journey through the Cevennes with a donkey Modestine and a notebook which he later transformed into lsquoTravels with a Donkeyrsquo Just a few months after publication Stevenson was off again - this time crossing the Atlantic and the breadth of America in the hope of being re-united with Fanny an experince he recored in the lsquoThe Amateur Emigrantrsquo Both pieces are classics of travel writing which reveal as much about Stevensonrsquos character as the landscape he travels through
MAPS
Many types of maps are available for this region but I recommend those produced by the Institute Geographique Nationale (IGN)
They have two series of walking maps which are suitable for our canoeing needs
The Top25 series is at a scale of 4cm to the km and the Top100 series is at a scale of 1cm to the km
For the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
TOP25 IGN 2640OT Gorges du Tarn et de la JonteCausse MejeanPn des Cevennes (GPS)
TOP100 IGN 162 RodezMillau
TOP25 IGN 2939OT Gorges de lArdecheBourg-Saint-AndeolVallon-Pont-DArc (Gps)
This map doesnrsquot cover the Gardon Ceze Chassezac or the upper Ardeche just the Gorge of the Ardeche
TOP100 IGN 163 AvignonNimes
This map covers all the rivers on the trip
These maps are available to buy online at IGN and at the usual online book shops
I would recommend the TOP100 maps We have all these maps with us on the trips
G R E E N R I V E R
Green River CanoesWe provide Guided Inn-to-Inn Canoeing Holidays to the south of France in the Perigord Lot Ardeche and Tarn regions
We provide hand-crafted vacations to combine a pleasant activity canoeing with an insight into the regional history and natural history whilst enjoying the local foods and wines
All our holidays comprise of mostly canoeing with some (often optional) hiking The itinerary is planned but is flexible enough to be changed on the day if required
All our holidays are guided Our guests will be accompanied on the river and trail by an experienced guide who knows the area and rivers well Our other guide will accompany us in the background by driving our vehicle between lodgings When necessary this vehicle will be transferring our luggage meeting with us for lunch and generally being available as and when needed
Hiking
Although the main focus of the trips will be on the canoeing we will have plenty of time for short walks and longer hikes
Where possible we will walk to and from the river although this is not compulsory
In the appropriate season when early mornings are light we can opt to go for a pre-breakfast walk The length and timing of the walk will depend on a consensus reached between those that wish to walk how early we wish to rise and the time of year
Some of the trails we walk on form part of the network of long-distance paths that criss-cross France These are known as Grand Randonees (GR) and are way-marked by a red and white flash We may walk on the GR4 (which goes from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic) passing through the Ardeche We will walk on the GR70 (the famous Robert Louis Stevenson) which
crosses the Cevennes and also possibly the GR6 which traverse the Tarn
Wildlife
On the river we will see plenty of bird-life both on and around the water We will see Ducks and Herons We will also see Kingfishers Wagtails Dippers and Sandpipers We will see Swal lows and Swi f ts and Martins as well as various other birds crossing our path such as Woodpeckers Jays and other crows as well as the
almost invisible songbirds in the tree and hedges Of the raptors we will see the Common Buzzard and possibly an Osprey or a Kestrel
This area of France has a rich variety of Butterflies and we will see many familiar species (if you are from Britain) We will also see some rather more exotic species such as the two types of Swallowtail the Cleopatra the Banded Grayling and if we are lucky some rarer species such as the Large Blue or the Lesser Purple Emperor or Festoons
The river itself will provide m a n y e x a m p l e s o f t h e Dragonfly and Damselfly family The delicate damsels include the Western Demoiselle the White-Legged the Orange F e a t h e r l e g t h e B l u e Featherleg and various Bluets and Bluetails Of the dragons w e m a y s e e t h e S m a l l Pincertail the Yellow Clubtail
the Pronged Clubtail and the Common Clubtai l amongst others
We will also be able to see many flowers especially early in the season before the meadows are cut and these will include several orchids s u c h a s t h e P u r p l e t h e Pyramid the Bee and the Lizard Orchids
Of course we will also see many trees and shrubs along the river course and in the forests We can have some fun trying to identify them
Of the reptiles we will probably see lizards and hear frogs We sometimes see a Grass Snake swimming in the river (harmless) and sometimes a Viper (the only venomous snake which is small 18 inches long and not very poisonous)
The hardest things to see are the mammals We have seen Nutria and Otters on these rivers and weve also glimpsed Red Squirrels and Mink and Martens along the banks On the early morning walks weve encountered Foxes Roe Deer and Fallow Deer Badgers have only been seen at night in the headlights
The European Beaver swims in these rivers and has been seen just once by me on the lower Ardeche
Maps And Books
GUIDE BOOKS for the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
It is an unfortunate fact that the Ardeche and Tarn areas of France are not served particularly well by guide books A number of walking books and guides are available and no doubt the regions are mentioned in more general guide books to the whole of France If you do discover something then please let us know
Cevennes and Grand Causses (Crossbill Guides) by Dirk Hillbers
The Ceacutevennes National Park together with its twin the Parc Naturel des Grands Causses are among the richest natural areas in France Against a stunning background of steep cliffs extensive forests and open steppe-like plateaux the visitor can discover an exceptional wealth of flora and fauna The hundreds of kilometres of trails and tracks make it easy to explore the area with its wealth of orchids and other wildflowers its superb range of birds and butterflies The traditional medieval villages amidst the impressive mountainous country provide a relaxed starting point for exploration In other words the Ceacutevennes has everything a naturalist could wish for This nature guide is part of the renowned Crossbill Guides series for nature enthusiasts The Crossbill Guides combine interesting and insightful accounts with up-to-date and practical tourist information and observation tips Detailed descriptions of hiking trails and car routes are conveniently linked to information on everything you want to know about the what why and wherefores of the Ceacutevennes and Grands Causses splendid nature
HISTORY
The Discovery of France A Historical Geography from the Revolution to the First World War by Graham Robb
Illuminating engrossing and full of surprises The Discovery of France is a literary exploration of a country few will recognise from maps and migration to magic language and landscape itrsquos a book that reveals the real past of France to tell the whole story and history of this remarkable nation rsquoWith gloriously apposite facts and an abundance of quirky anecdotes and thumbnail sketches of people places and customs Robb on brilliant form takes us on a stunning journey through the historical landscape of Francersquo Independent lsquoCertain books strain the patience of those close to you How many times can you demand Look at this Can you imagine Did you know that Without actually handing over the volume This is such a bookrsquo Mail on Sunday rsquoAn extraordinary journey of discovery that will delight even the most indolent armchair travellerrsquo Daily Telegraph
A Concise History of France by Roger Price
This book provides a clear and well-informed guide to French history from the emergence of a strong state in the Ile-de-France in the early middle ages to the trente glorieuses following the Second World War and the Mitterrand presidency As such it provides the most up-to-date and comprehensive study of French history available Among the books central themes are the relationship between state and society the impact of war and such crucial questions as who possessed political power how this power was used in whose interests and with what consequences Roger Price examines the role of leading figures including Philip Augustus Henri IV Louis XIV the two Napoleans Clemenceau and De Gaulle as well as the lives of ordinary people A rich entertaining guide for the student and general reader
A Travellerrsquos History of France by Robert Cole
The Travellers History series is designed for the traveller who feels they need more historical background information on the country in which they are staying than can be found in an ordinary guidebook For those who want to look deeper and discover more about the roots of France its history and culture in an enjoyable read this is the book to choose Designed for easy reference it is the key to unlocking the secrets of France If you want to find about the mysterious Merovingian kings or the results of the last election if you want to know when Chartres cathedral was built or how Napoleon rose to power or when and where Princess Diana died - youll find it all in A Travellers History of France Undoubtedly the best way to prepare for a trip to France is to bone up on some history The Travellers History of France by Robert Cole is concise and gives the essential facts in a very readable form The Independent This little book is a very good idea indeed a running commentary on the complexities triumphs and tragedies of French history from the Lascaux Caves to the Pompidou centre A must for tourists who want to know what happened where The Birmingham Post A brilliant idea from Gloucestershire publishers Windrush a series of books which give a potted history of European countries Ostensibly aimed at holidaymakers the first on France is an excellent introduction for anyone who wants an idiots guide to a history that has so often intertwined with our own The Oxford Times
FICTION
Travels with a Donkey in the Ceacutevennes and the Amateur Emigrant by Robert Louis Stevenson
In 1878 Robert Louis Srtevenson was suffereing from poor health struggling to survive on the income derived from his writings and tormented by his infatuation with Fanny Osbourne a married American woman His response was to embark on a journey through the Cevennes with a donkey Modestine and a notebook which he later transformed into lsquoTravels with a Donkeyrsquo Just a few months after publication Stevenson was off again - this time crossing the Atlantic and the breadth of America in the hope of being re-united with Fanny an experince he recored in the lsquoThe Amateur Emigrantrsquo Both pieces are classics of travel writing which reveal as much about Stevensonrsquos character as the landscape he travels through
MAPS
Many types of maps are available for this region but I recommend those produced by the Institute Geographique Nationale (IGN)
They have two series of walking maps which are suitable for our canoeing needs
The Top25 series is at a scale of 4cm to the km and the Top100 series is at a scale of 1cm to the km
For the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
TOP25 IGN 2640OT Gorges du Tarn et de la JonteCausse MejeanPn des Cevennes (GPS)
TOP100 IGN 162 RodezMillau
TOP25 IGN 2939OT Gorges de lArdecheBourg-Saint-AndeolVallon-Pont-DArc (Gps)
This map doesnrsquot cover the Gardon Ceze Chassezac or the upper Ardeche just the Gorge of the Ardeche
TOP100 IGN 163 AvignonNimes
This map covers all the rivers on the trip
These maps are available to buy online at IGN and at the usual online book shops
I would recommend the TOP100 maps We have all these maps with us on the trips
G R E E N R I V E R
Green River CanoesWe provide Guided Inn-to-Inn Canoeing Holidays to the south of France in the Perigord Lot Ardeche and Tarn regions
We provide hand-crafted vacations to combine a pleasant activity canoeing with an insight into the regional history and natural history whilst enjoying the local foods and wines
All our holidays comprise of mostly canoeing with some (often optional) hiking The itinerary is planned but is flexible enough to be changed on the day if required
All our holidays are guided Our guests will be accompanied on the river and trail by an experienced guide who knows the area and rivers well Our other guide will accompany us in the background by driving our vehicle between lodgings When necessary this vehicle will be transferring our luggage meeting with us for lunch and generally being available as and when needed
crosses the Cevennes and also possibly the GR6 which traverse the Tarn
Wildlife
On the river we will see plenty of bird-life both on and around the water We will see Ducks and Herons We will also see Kingfishers Wagtails Dippers and Sandpipers We will see Swal lows and Swi f ts and Martins as well as various other birds crossing our path such as Woodpeckers Jays and other crows as well as the
almost invisible songbirds in the tree and hedges Of the raptors we will see the Common Buzzard and possibly an Osprey or a Kestrel
This area of France has a rich variety of Butterflies and we will see many familiar species (if you are from Britain) We will also see some rather more exotic species such as the two types of Swallowtail the Cleopatra the Banded Grayling and if we are lucky some rarer species such as the Large Blue or the Lesser Purple Emperor or Festoons
The river itself will provide m a n y e x a m p l e s o f t h e Dragonfly and Damselfly family The delicate damsels include the Western Demoiselle the White-Legged the Orange F e a t h e r l e g t h e B l u e Featherleg and various Bluets and Bluetails Of the dragons w e m a y s e e t h e S m a l l Pincertail the Yellow Clubtail
the Pronged Clubtail and the Common Clubtai l amongst others
We will also be able to see many flowers especially early in the season before the meadows are cut and these will include several orchids s u c h a s t h e P u r p l e t h e Pyramid the Bee and the Lizard Orchids
Of course we will also see many trees and shrubs along the river course and in the forests We can have some fun trying to identify them
Of the reptiles we will probably see lizards and hear frogs We sometimes see a Grass Snake swimming in the river (harmless) and sometimes a Viper (the only venomous snake which is small 18 inches long and not very poisonous)
The hardest things to see are the mammals We have seen Nutria and Otters on these rivers and weve also glimpsed Red Squirrels and Mink and Martens along the banks On the early morning walks weve encountered Foxes Roe Deer and Fallow Deer Badgers have only been seen at night in the headlights
The European Beaver swims in these rivers and has been seen just once by me on the lower Ardeche
Maps And Books
GUIDE BOOKS for the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
It is an unfortunate fact that the Ardeche and Tarn areas of France are not served particularly well by guide books A number of walking books and guides are available and no doubt the regions are mentioned in more general guide books to the whole of France If you do discover something then please let us know
Cevennes and Grand Causses (Crossbill Guides) by Dirk Hillbers
The Ceacutevennes National Park together with its twin the Parc Naturel des Grands Causses are among the richest natural areas in France Against a stunning background of steep cliffs extensive forests and open steppe-like plateaux the visitor can discover an exceptional wealth of flora and fauna The hundreds of kilometres of trails and tracks make it easy to explore the area with its wealth of orchids and other wildflowers its superb range of birds and butterflies The traditional medieval villages amidst the impressive mountainous country provide a relaxed starting point for exploration In other words the Ceacutevennes has everything a naturalist could wish for This nature guide is part of the renowned Crossbill Guides series for nature enthusiasts The Crossbill Guides combine interesting and insightful accounts with up-to-date and practical tourist information and observation tips Detailed descriptions of hiking trails and car routes are conveniently linked to information on everything you want to know about the what why and wherefores of the Ceacutevennes and Grands Causses splendid nature
HISTORY
The Discovery of France A Historical Geography from the Revolution to the First World War by Graham Robb
Illuminating engrossing and full of surprises The Discovery of France is a literary exploration of a country few will recognise from maps and migration to magic language and landscape itrsquos a book that reveals the real past of France to tell the whole story and history of this remarkable nation rsquoWith gloriously apposite facts and an abundance of quirky anecdotes and thumbnail sketches of people places and customs Robb on brilliant form takes us on a stunning journey through the historical landscape of Francersquo Independent lsquoCertain books strain the patience of those close to you How many times can you demand Look at this Can you imagine Did you know that Without actually handing over the volume This is such a bookrsquo Mail on Sunday rsquoAn extraordinary journey of discovery that will delight even the most indolent armchair travellerrsquo Daily Telegraph
A Concise History of France by Roger Price
This book provides a clear and well-informed guide to French history from the emergence of a strong state in the Ile-de-France in the early middle ages to the trente glorieuses following the Second World War and the Mitterrand presidency As such it provides the most up-to-date and comprehensive study of French history available Among the books central themes are the relationship between state and society the impact of war and such crucial questions as who possessed political power how this power was used in whose interests and with what consequences Roger Price examines the role of leading figures including Philip Augustus Henri IV Louis XIV the two Napoleans Clemenceau and De Gaulle as well as the lives of ordinary people A rich entertaining guide for the student and general reader
A Travellerrsquos History of France by Robert Cole
The Travellers History series is designed for the traveller who feels they need more historical background information on the country in which they are staying than can be found in an ordinary guidebook For those who want to look deeper and discover more about the roots of France its history and culture in an enjoyable read this is the book to choose Designed for easy reference it is the key to unlocking the secrets of France If you want to find about the mysterious Merovingian kings or the results of the last election if you want to know when Chartres cathedral was built or how Napoleon rose to power or when and where Princess Diana died - youll find it all in A Travellers History of France Undoubtedly the best way to prepare for a trip to France is to bone up on some history The Travellers History of France by Robert Cole is concise and gives the essential facts in a very readable form The Independent This little book is a very good idea indeed a running commentary on the complexities triumphs and tragedies of French history from the Lascaux Caves to the Pompidou centre A must for tourists who want to know what happened where The Birmingham Post A brilliant idea from Gloucestershire publishers Windrush a series of books which give a potted history of European countries Ostensibly aimed at holidaymakers the first on France is an excellent introduction for anyone who wants an idiots guide to a history that has so often intertwined with our own The Oxford Times
FICTION
Travels with a Donkey in the Ceacutevennes and the Amateur Emigrant by Robert Louis Stevenson
In 1878 Robert Louis Srtevenson was suffereing from poor health struggling to survive on the income derived from his writings and tormented by his infatuation with Fanny Osbourne a married American woman His response was to embark on a journey through the Cevennes with a donkey Modestine and a notebook which he later transformed into lsquoTravels with a Donkeyrsquo Just a few months after publication Stevenson was off again - this time crossing the Atlantic and the breadth of America in the hope of being re-united with Fanny an experince he recored in the lsquoThe Amateur Emigrantrsquo Both pieces are classics of travel writing which reveal as much about Stevensonrsquos character as the landscape he travels through
MAPS
Many types of maps are available for this region but I recommend those produced by the Institute Geographique Nationale (IGN)
They have two series of walking maps which are suitable for our canoeing needs
The Top25 series is at a scale of 4cm to the km and the Top100 series is at a scale of 1cm to the km
For the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
TOP25 IGN 2640OT Gorges du Tarn et de la JonteCausse MejeanPn des Cevennes (GPS)
TOP100 IGN 162 RodezMillau
TOP25 IGN 2939OT Gorges de lArdecheBourg-Saint-AndeolVallon-Pont-DArc (Gps)
This map doesnrsquot cover the Gardon Ceze Chassezac or the upper Ardeche just the Gorge of the Ardeche
TOP100 IGN 163 AvignonNimes
This map covers all the rivers on the trip
These maps are available to buy online at IGN and at the usual online book shops
I would recommend the TOP100 maps We have all these maps with us on the trips
G R E E N R I V E R
Green River CanoesWe provide Guided Inn-to-Inn Canoeing Holidays to the south of France in the Perigord Lot Ardeche and Tarn regions
We provide hand-crafted vacations to combine a pleasant activity canoeing with an insight into the regional history and natural history whilst enjoying the local foods and wines
All our holidays comprise of mostly canoeing with some (often optional) hiking The itinerary is planned but is flexible enough to be changed on the day if required
All our holidays are guided Our guests will be accompanied on the river and trail by an experienced guide who knows the area and rivers well Our other guide will accompany us in the background by driving our vehicle between lodgings When necessary this vehicle will be transferring our luggage meeting with us for lunch and generally being available as and when needed
Wildlife
On the river we will see plenty of bird-life both on and around the water We will see Ducks and Herons We will also see Kingfishers Wagtails Dippers and Sandpipers We will see Swal lows and Swi f ts and Martins as well as various other birds crossing our path such as Woodpeckers Jays and other crows as well as the
almost invisible songbirds in the tree and hedges Of the raptors we will see the Common Buzzard and possibly an Osprey or a Kestrel
This area of France has a rich variety of Butterflies and we will see many familiar species (if you are from Britain) We will also see some rather more exotic species such as the two types of Swallowtail the Cleopatra the Banded Grayling and if we are lucky some rarer species such as the Large Blue or the Lesser Purple Emperor or Festoons
The river itself will provide m a n y e x a m p l e s o f t h e Dragonfly and Damselfly family The delicate damsels include the Western Demoiselle the White-Legged the Orange F e a t h e r l e g t h e B l u e Featherleg and various Bluets and Bluetails Of the dragons w e m a y s e e t h e S m a l l Pincertail the Yellow Clubtail
the Pronged Clubtail and the Common Clubtai l amongst others
We will also be able to see many flowers especially early in the season before the meadows are cut and these will include several orchids s u c h a s t h e P u r p l e t h e Pyramid the Bee and the Lizard Orchids
Of course we will also see many trees and shrubs along the river course and in the forests We can have some fun trying to identify them
Of the reptiles we will probably see lizards and hear frogs We sometimes see a Grass Snake swimming in the river (harmless) and sometimes a Viper (the only venomous snake which is small 18 inches long and not very poisonous)
The hardest things to see are the mammals We have seen Nutria and Otters on these rivers and weve also glimpsed Red Squirrels and Mink and Martens along the banks On the early morning walks weve encountered Foxes Roe Deer and Fallow Deer Badgers have only been seen at night in the headlights
The European Beaver swims in these rivers and has been seen just once by me on the lower Ardeche
Maps And Books
GUIDE BOOKS for the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
It is an unfortunate fact that the Ardeche and Tarn areas of France are not served particularly well by guide books A number of walking books and guides are available and no doubt the regions are mentioned in more general guide books to the whole of France If you do discover something then please let us know
Cevennes and Grand Causses (Crossbill Guides) by Dirk Hillbers
The Ceacutevennes National Park together with its twin the Parc Naturel des Grands Causses are among the richest natural areas in France Against a stunning background of steep cliffs extensive forests and open steppe-like plateaux the visitor can discover an exceptional wealth of flora and fauna The hundreds of kilometres of trails and tracks make it easy to explore the area with its wealth of orchids and other wildflowers its superb range of birds and butterflies The traditional medieval villages amidst the impressive mountainous country provide a relaxed starting point for exploration In other words the Ceacutevennes has everything a naturalist could wish for This nature guide is part of the renowned Crossbill Guides series for nature enthusiasts The Crossbill Guides combine interesting and insightful accounts with up-to-date and practical tourist information and observation tips Detailed descriptions of hiking trails and car routes are conveniently linked to information on everything you want to know about the what why and wherefores of the Ceacutevennes and Grands Causses splendid nature
HISTORY
The Discovery of France A Historical Geography from the Revolution to the First World War by Graham Robb
Illuminating engrossing and full of surprises The Discovery of France is a literary exploration of a country few will recognise from maps and migration to magic language and landscape itrsquos a book that reveals the real past of France to tell the whole story and history of this remarkable nation rsquoWith gloriously apposite facts and an abundance of quirky anecdotes and thumbnail sketches of people places and customs Robb on brilliant form takes us on a stunning journey through the historical landscape of Francersquo Independent lsquoCertain books strain the patience of those close to you How many times can you demand Look at this Can you imagine Did you know that Without actually handing over the volume This is such a bookrsquo Mail on Sunday rsquoAn extraordinary journey of discovery that will delight even the most indolent armchair travellerrsquo Daily Telegraph
A Concise History of France by Roger Price
This book provides a clear and well-informed guide to French history from the emergence of a strong state in the Ile-de-France in the early middle ages to the trente glorieuses following the Second World War and the Mitterrand presidency As such it provides the most up-to-date and comprehensive study of French history available Among the books central themes are the relationship between state and society the impact of war and such crucial questions as who possessed political power how this power was used in whose interests and with what consequences Roger Price examines the role of leading figures including Philip Augustus Henri IV Louis XIV the two Napoleans Clemenceau and De Gaulle as well as the lives of ordinary people A rich entertaining guide for the student and general reader
A Travellerrsquos History of France by Robert Cole
The Travellers History series is designed for the traveller who feels they need more historical background information on the country in which they are staying than can be found in an ordinary guidebook For those who want to look deeper and discover more about the roots of France its history and culture in an enjoyable read this is the book to choose Designed for easy reference it is the key to unlocking the secrets of France If you want to find about the mysterious Merovingian kings or the results of the last election if you want to know when Chartres cathedral was built or how Napoleon rose to power or when and where Princess Diana died - youll find it all in A Travellers History of France Undoubtedly the best way to prepare for a trip to France is to bone up on some history The Travellers History of France by Robert Cole is concise and gives the essential facts in a very readable form The Independent This little book is a very good idea indeed a running commentary on the complexities triumphs and tragedies of French history from the Lascaux Caves to the Pompidou centre A must for tourists who want to know what happened where The Birmingham Post A brilliant idea from Gloucestershire publishers Windrush a series of books which give a potted history of European countries Ostensibly aimed at holidaymakers the first on France is an excellent introduction for anyone who wants an idiots guide to a history that has so often intertwined with our own The Oxford Times
FICTION
Travels with a Donkey in the Ceacutevennes and the Amateur Emigrant by Robert Louis Stevenson
In 1878 Robert Louis Srtevenson was suffereing from poor health struggling to survive on the income derived from his writings and tormented by his infatuation with Fanny Osbourne a married American woman His response was to embark on a journey through the Cevennes with a donkey Modestine and a notebook which he later transformed into lsquoTravels with a Donkeyrsquo Just a few months after publication Stevenson was off again - this time crossing the Atlantic and the breadth of America in the hope of being re-united with Fanny an experince he recored in the lsquoThe Amateur Emigrantrsquo Both pieces are classics of travel writing which reveal as much about Stevensonrsquos character as the landscape he travels through
MAPS
Many types of maps are available for this region but I recommend those produced by the Institute Geographique Nationale (IGN)
They have two series of walking maps which are suitable for our canoeing needs
The Top25 series is at a scale of 4cm to the km and the Top100 series is at a scale of 1cm to the km
For the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
TOP25 IGN 2640OT Gorges du Tarn et de la JonteCausse MejeanPn des Cevennes (GPS)
TOP100 IGN 162 RodezMillau
TOP25 IGN 2939OT Gorges de lArdecheBourg-Saint-AndeolVallon-Pont-DArc (Gps)
This map doesnrsquot cover the Gardon Ceze Chassezac or the upper Ardeche just the Gorge of the Ardeche
TOP100 IGN 163 AvignonNimes
This map covers all the rivers on the trip
These maps are available to buy online at IGN and at the usual online book shops
I would recommend the TOP100 maps We have all these maps with us on the trips
G R E E N R I V E R
Green River CanoesWe provide Guided Inn-to-Inn Canoeing Holidays to the south of France in the Perigord Lot Ardeche and Tarn regions
We provide hand-crafted vacations to combine a pleasant activity canoeing with an insight into the regional history and natural history whilst enjoying the local foods and wines
All our holidays comprise of mostly canoeing with some (often optional) hiking The itinerary is planned but is flexible enough to be changed on the day if required
All our holidays are guided Our guests will be accompanied on the river and trail by an experienced guide who knows the area and rivers well Our other guide will accompany us in the background by driving our vehicle between lodgings When necessary this vehicle will be transferring our luggage meeting with us for lunch and generally being available as and when needed
the Pronged Clubtail and the Common Clubtai l amongst others
We will also be able to see many flowers especially early in the season before the meadows are cut and these will include several orchids s u c h a s t h e P u r p l e t h e Pyramid the Bee and the Lizard Orchids
Of course we will also see many trees and shrubs along the river course and in the forests We can have some fun trying to identify them
Of the reptiles we will probably see lizards and hear frogs We sometimes see a Grass Snake swimming in the river (harmless) and sometimes a Viper (the only venomous snake which is small 18 inches long and not very poisonous)
The hardest things to see are the mammals We have seen Nutria and Otters on these rivers and weve also glimpsed Red Squirrels and Mink and Martens along the banks On the early morning walks weve encountered Foxes Roe Deer and Fallow Deer Badgers have only been seen at night in the headlights
The European Beaver swims in these rivers and has been seen just once by me on the lower Ardeche
Maps And Books
GUIDE BOOKS for the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
It is an unfortunate fact that the Ardeche and Tarn areas of France are not served particularly well by guide books A number of walking books and guides are available and no doubt the regions are mentioned in more general guide books to the whole of France If you do discover something then please let us know
Cevennes and Grand Causses (Crossbill Guides) by Dirk Hillbers
The Ceacutevennes National Park together with its twin the Parc Naturel des Grands Causses are among the richest natural areas in France Against a stunning background of steep cliffs extensive forests and open steppe-like plateaux the visitor can discover an exceptional wealth of flora and fauna The hundreds of kilometres of trails and tracks make it easy to explore the area with its wealth of orchids and other wildflowers its superb range of birds and butterflies The traditional medieval villages amidst the impressive mountainous country provide a relaxed starting point for exploration In other words the Ceacutevennes has everything a naturalist could wish for This nature guide is part of the renowned Crossbill Guides series for nature enthusiasts The Crossbill Guides combine interesting and insightful accounts with up-to-date and practical tourist information and observation tips Detailed descriptions of hiking trails and car routes are conveniently linked to information on everything you want to know about the what why and wherefores of the Ceacutevennes and Grands Causses splendid nature
HISTORY
The Discovery of France A Historical Geography from the Revolution to the First World War by Graham Robb
Illuminating engrossing and full of surprises The Discovery of France is a literary exploration of a country few will recognise from maps and migration to magic language and landscape itrsquos a book that reveals the real past of France to tell the whole story and history of this remarkable nation rsquoWith gloriously apposite facts and an abundance of quirky anecdotes and thumbnail sketches of people places and customs Robb on brilliant form takes us on a stunning journey through the historical landscape of Francersquo Independent lsquoCertain books strain the patience of those close to you How many times can you demand Look at this Can you imagine Did you know that Without actually handing over the volume This is such a bookrsquo Mail on Sunday rsquoAn extraordinary journey of discovery that will delight even the most indolent armchair travellerrsquo Daily Telegraph
A Concise History of France by Roger Price
This book provides a clear and well-informed guide to French history from the emergence of a strong state in the Ile-de-France in the early middle ages to the trente glorieuses following the Second World War and the Mitterrand presidency As such it provides the most up-to-date and comprehensive study of French history available Among the books central themes are the relationship between state and society the impact of war and such crucial questions as who possessed political power how this power was used in whose interests and with what consequences Roger Price examines the role of leading figures including Philip Augustus Henri IV Louis XIV the two Napoleans Clemenceau and De Gaulle as well as the lives of ordinary people A rich entertaining guide for the student and general reader
A Travellerrsquos History of France by Robert Cole
The Travellers History series is designed for the traveller who feels they need more historical background information on the country in which they are staying than can be found in an ordinary guidebook For those who want to look deeper and discover more about the roots of France its history and culture in an enjoyable read this is the book to choose Designed for easy reference it is the key to unlocking the secrets of France If you want to find about the mysterious Merovingian kings or the results of the last election if you want to know when Chartres cathedral was built or how Napoleon rose to power or when and where Princess Diana died - youll find it all in A Travellers History of France Undoubtedly the best way to prepare for a trip to France is to bone up on some history The Travellers History of France by Robert Cole is concise and gives the essential facts in a very readable form The Independent This little book is a very good idea indeed a running commentary on the complexities triumphs and tragedies of French history from the Lascaux Caves to the Pompidou centre A must for tourists who want to know what happened where The Birmingham Post A brilliant idea from Gloucestershire publishers Windrush a series of books which give a potted history of European countries Ostensibly aimed at holidaymakers the first on France is an excellent introduction for anyone who wants an idiots guide to a history that has so often intertwined with our own The Oxford Times
FICTION
Travels with a Donkey in the Ceacutevennes and the Amateur Emigrant by Robert Louis Stevenson
In 1878 Robert Louis Srtevenson was suffereing from poor health struggling to survive on the income derived from his writings and tormented by his infatuation with Fanny Osbourne a married American woman His response was to embark on a journey through the Cevennes with a donkey Modestine and a notebook which he later transformed into lsquoTravels with a Donkeyrsquo Just a few months after publication Stevenson was off again - this time crossing the Atlantic and the breadth of America in the hope of being re-united with Fanny an experince he recored in the lsquoThe Amateur Emigrantrsquo Both pieces are classics of travel writing which reveal as much about Stevensonrsquos character as the landscape he travels through
MAPS
Many types of maps are available for this region but I recommend those produced by the Institute Geographique Nationale (IGN)
They have two series of walking maps which are suitable for our canoeing needs
The Top25 series is at a scale of 4cm to the km and the Top100 series is at a scale of 1cm to the km
For the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
TOP25 IGN 2640OT Gorges du Tarn et de la JonteCausse MejeanPn des Cevennes (GPS)
TOP100 IGN 162 RodezMillau
TOP25 IGN 2939OT Gorges de lArdecheBourg-Saint-AndeolVallon-Pont-DArc (Gps)
This map doesnrsquot cover the Gardon Ceze Chassezac or the upper Ardeche just the Gorge of the Ardeche
TOP100 IGN 163 AvignonNimes
This map covers all the rivers on the trip
These maps are available to buy online at IGN and at the usual online book shops
I would recommend the TOP100 maps We have all these maps with us on the trips
G R E E N R I V E R
Green River CanoesWe provide Guided Inn-to-Inn Canoeing Holidays to the south of France in the Perigord Lot Ardeche and Tarn regions
We provide hand-crafted vacations to combine a pleasant activity canoeing with an insight into the regional history and natural history whilst enjoying the local foods and wines
All our holidays comprise of mostly canoeing with some (often optional) hiking The itinerary is planned but is flexible enough to be changed on the day if required
All our holidays are guided Our guests will be accompanied on the river and trail by an experienced guide who knows the area and rivers well Our other guide will accompany us in the background by driving our vehicle between lodgings When necessary this vehicle will be transferring our luggage meeting with us for lunch and generally being available as and when needed
Maps And Books
GUIDE BOOKS for the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
It is an unfortunate fact that the Ardeche and Tarn areas of France are not served particularly well by guide books A number of walking books and guides are available and no doubt the regions are mentioned in more general guide books to the whole of France If you do discover something then please let us know
Cevennes and Grand Causses (Crossbill Guides) by Dirk Hillbers
The Ceacutevennes National Park together with its twin the Parc Naturel des Grands Causses are among the richest natural areas in France Against a stunning background of steep cliffs extensive forests and open steppe-like plateaux the visitor can discover an exceptional wealth of flora and fauna The hundreds of kilometres of trails and tracks make it easy to explore the area with its wealth of orchids and other wildflowers its superb range of birds and butterflies The traditional medieval villages amidst the impressive mountainous country provide a relaxed starting point for exploration In other words the Ceacutevennes has everything a naturalist could wish for This nature guide is part of the renowned Crossbill Guides series for nature enthusiasts The Crossbill Guides combine interesting and insightful accounts with up-to-date and practical tourist information and observation tips Detailed descriptions of hiking trails and car routes are conveniently linked to information on everything you want to know about the what why and wherefores of the Ceacutevennes and Grands Causses splendid nature
HISTORY
The Discovery of France A Historical Geography from the Revolution to the First World War by Graham Robb
Illuminating engrossing and full of surprises The Discovery of France is a literary exploration of a country few will recognise from maps and migration to magic language and landscape itrsquos a book that reveals the real past of France to tell the whole story and history of this remarkable nation rsquoWith gloriously apposite facts and an abundance of quirky anecdotes and thumbnail sketches of people places and customs Robb on brilliant form takes us on a stunning journey through the historical landscape of Francersquo Independent lsquoCertain books strain the patience of those close to you How many times can you demand Look at this Can you imagine Did you know that Without actually handing over the volume This is such a bookrsquo Mail on Sunday rsquoAn extraordinary journey of discovery that will delight even the most indolent armchair travellerrsquo Daily Telegraph
A Concise History of France by Roger Price
This book provides a clear and well-informed guide to French history from the emergence of a strong state in the Ile-de-France in the early middle ages to the trente glorieuses following the Second World War and the Mitterrand presidency As such it provides the most up-to-date and comprehensive study of French history available Among the books central themes are the relationship between state and society the impact of war and such crucial questions as who possessed political power how this power was used in whose interests and with what consequences Roger Price examines the role of leading figures including Philip Augustus Henri IV Louis XIV the two Napoleans Clemenceau and De Gaulle as well as the lives of ordinary people A rich entertaining guide for the student and general reader
A Travellerrsquos History of France by Robert Cole
The Travellers History series is designed for the traveller who feels they need more historical background information on the country in which they are staying than can be found in an ordinary guidebook For those who want to look deeper and discover more about the roots of France its history and culture in an enjoyable read this is the book to choose Designed for easy reference it is the key to unlocking the secrets of France If you want to find about the mysterious Merovingian kings or the results of the last election if you want to know when Chartres cathedral was built or how Napoleon rose to power or when and where Princess Diana died - youll find it all in A Travellers History of France Undoubtedly the best way to prepare for a trip to France is to bone up on some history The Travellers History of France by Robert Cole is concise and gives the essential facts in a very readable form The Independent This little book is a very good idea indeed a running commentary on the complexities triumphs and tragedies of French history from the Lascaux Caves to the Pompidou centre A must for tourists who want to know what happened where The Birmingham Post A brilliant idea from Gloucestershire publishers Windrush a series of books which give a potted history of European countries Ostensibly aimed at holidaymakers the first on France is an excellent introduction for anyone who wants an idiots guide to a history that has so often intertwined with our own The Oxford Times
FICTION
Travels with a Donkey in the Ceacutevennes and the Amateur Emigrant by Robert Louis Stevenson
In 1878 Robert Louis Srtevenson was suffereing from poor health struggling to survive on the income derived from his writings and tormented by his infatuation with Fanny Osbourne a married American woman His response was to embark on a journey through the Cevennes with a donkey Modestine and a notebook which he later transformed into lsquoTravels with a Donkeyrsquo Just a few months after publication Stevenson was off again - this time crossing the Atlantic and the breadth of America in the hope of being re-united with Fanny an experince he recored in the lsquoThe Amateur Emigrantrsquo Both pieces are classics of travel writing which reveal as much about Stevensonrsquos character as the landscape he travels through
MAPS
Many types of maps are available for this region but I recommend those produced by the Institute Geographique Nationale (IGN)
They have two series of walking maps which are suitable for our canoeing needs
The Top25 series is at a scale of 4cm to the km and the Top100 series is at a scale of 1cm to the km
For the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
TOP25 IGN 2640OT Gorges du Tarn et de la JonteCausse MejeanPn des Cevennes (GPS)
TOP100 IGN 162 RodezMillau
TOP25 IGN 2939OT Gorges de lArdecheBourg-Saint-AndeolVallon-Pont-DArc (Gps)
This map doesnrsquot cover the Gardon Ceze Chassezac or the upper Ardeche just the Gorge of the Ardeche
TOP100 IGN 163 AvignonNimes
This map covers all the rivers on the trip
These maps are available to buy online at IGN and at the usual online book shops
I would recommend the TOP100 maps We have all these maps with us on the trips
G R E E N R I V E R
Green River CanoesWe provide Guided Inn-to-Inn Canoeing Holidays to the south of France in the Perigord Lot Ardeche and Tarn regions
We provide hand-crafted vacations to combine a pleasant activity canoeing with an insight into the regional history and natural history whilst enjoying the local foods and wines
All our holidays comprise of mostly canoeing with some (often optional) hiking The itinerary is planned but is flexible enough to be changed on the day if required
All our holidays are guided Our guests will be accompanied on the river and trail by an experienced guide who knows the area and rivers well Our other guide will accompany us in the background by driving our vehicle between lodgings When necessary this vehicle will be transferring our luggage meeting with us for lunch and generally being available as and when needed
HISTORY
The Discovery of France A Historical Geography from the Revolution to the First World War by Graham Robb
Illuminating engrossing and full of surprises The Discovery of France is a literary exploration of a country few will recognise from maps and migration to magic language and landscape itrsquos a book that reveals the real past of France to tell the whole story and history of this remarkable nation rsquoWith gloriously apposite facts and an abundance of quirky anecdotes and thumbnail sketches of people places and customs Robb on brilliant form takes us on a stunning journey through the historical landscape of Francersquo Independent lsquoCertain books strain the patience of those close to you How many times can you demand Look at this Can you imagine Did you know that Without actually handing over the volume This is such a bookrsquo Mail on Sunday rsquoAn extraordinary journey of discovery that will delight even the most indolent armchair travellerrsquo Daily Telegraph
A Concise History of France by Roger Price
This book provides a clear and well-informed guide to French history from the emergence of a strong state in the Ile-de-France in the early middle ages to the trente glorieuses following the Second World War and the Mitterrand presidency As such it provides the most up-to-date and comprehensive study of French history available Among the books central themes are the relationship between state and society the impact of war and such crucial questions as who possessed political power how this power was used in whose interests and with what consequences Roger Price examines the role of leading figures including Philip Augustus Henri IV Louis XIV the two Napoleans Clemenceau and De Gaulle as well as the lives of ordinary people A rich entertaining guide for the student and general reader
A Travellerrsquos History of France by Robert Cole
The Travellers History series is designed for the traveller who feels they need more historical background information on the country in which they are staying than can be found in an ordinary guidebook For those who want to look deeper and discover more about the roots of France its history and culture in an enjoyable read this is the book to choose Designed for easy reference it is the key to unlocking the secrets of France If you want to find about the mysterious Merovingian kings or the results of the last election if you want to know when Chartres cathedral was built or how Napoleon rose to power or when and where Princess Diana died - youll find it all in A Travellers History of France Undoubtedly the best way to prepare for a trip to France is to bone up on some history The Travellers History of France by Robert Cole is concise and gives the essential facts in a very readable form The Independent This little book is a very good idea indeed a running commentary on the complexities triumphs and tragedies of French history from the Lascaux Caves to the Pompidou centre A must for tourists who want to know what happened where The Birmingham Post A brilliant idea from Gloucestershire publishers Windrush a series of books which give a potted history of European countries Ostensibly aimed at holidaymakers the first on France is an excellent introduction for anyone who wants an idiots guide to a history that has so often intertwined with our own The Oxford Times
FICTION
Travels with a Donkey in the Ceacutevennes and the Amateur Emigrant by Robert Louis Stevenson
In 1878 Robert Louis Srtevenson was suffereing from poor health struggling to survive on the income derived from his writings and tormented by his infatuation with Fanny Osbourne a married American woman His response was to embark on a journey through the Cevennes with a donkey Modestine and a notebook which he later transformed into lsquoTravels with a Donkeyrsquo Just a few months after publication Stevenson was off again - this time crossing the Atlantic and the breadth of America in the hope of being re-united with Fanny an experince he recored in the lsquoThe Amateur Emigrantrsquo Both pieces are classics of travel writing which reveal as much about Stevensonrsquos character as the landscape he travels through
MAPS
Many types of maps are available for this region but I recommend those produced by the Institute Geographique Nationale (IGN)
They have two series of walking maps which are suitable for our canoeing needs
The Top25 series is at a scale of 4cm to the km and the Top100 series is at a scale of 1cm to the km
For the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
TOP25 IGN 2640OT Gorges du Tarn et de la JonteCausse MejeanPn des Cevennes (GPS)
TOP100 IGN 162 RodezMillau
TOP25 IGN 2939OT Gorges de lArdecheBourg-Saint-AndeolVallon-Pont-DArc (Gps)
This map doesnrsquot cover the Gardon Ceze Chassezac or the upper Ardeche just the Gorge of the Ardeche
TOP100 IGN 163 AvignonNimes
This map covers all the rivers on the trip
These maps are available to buy online at IGN and at the usual online book shops
I would recommend the TOP100 maps We have all these maps with us on the trips
G R E E N R I V E R
Green River CanoesWe provide Guided Inn-to-Inn Canoeing Holidays to the south of France in the Perigord Lot Ardeche and Tarn regions
We provide hand-crafted vacations to combine a pleasant activity canoeing with an insight into the regional history and natural history whilst enjoying the local foods and wines
All our holidays comprise of mostly canoeing with some (often optional) hiking The itinerary is planned but is flexible enough to be changed on the day if required
All our holidays are guided Our guests will be accompanied on the river and trail by an experienced guide who knows the area and rivers well Our other guide will accompany us in the background by driving our vehicle between lodgings When necessary this vehicle will be transferring our luggage meeting with us for lunch and generally being available as and when needed
A Travellerrsquos History of France by Robert Cole
The Travellers History series is designed for the traveller who feels they need more historical background information on the country in which they are staying than can be found in an ordinary guidebook For those who want to look deeper and discover more about the roots of France its history and culture in an enjoyable read this is the book to choose Designed for easy reference it is the key to unlocking the secrets of France If you want to find about the mysterious Merovingian kings or the results of the last election if you want to know when Chartres cathedral was built or how Napoleon rose to power or when and where Princess Diana died - youll find it all in A Travellers History of France Undoubtedly the best way to prepare for a trip to France is to bone up on some history The Travellers History of France by Robert Cole is concise and gives the essential facts in a very readable form The Independent This little book is a very good idea indeed a running commentary on the complexities triumphs and tragedies of French history from the Lascaux Caves to the Pompidou centre A must for tourists who want to know what happened where The Birmingham Post A brilliant idea from Gloucestershire publishers Windrush a series of books which give a potted history of European countries Ostensibly aimed at holidaymakers the first on France is an excellent introduction for anyone who wants an idiots guide to a history that has so often intertwined with our own The Oxford Times
FICTION
Travels with a Donkey in the Ceacutevennes and the Amateur Emigrant by Robert Louis Stevenson
In 1878 Robert Louis Srtevenson was suffereing from poor health struggling to survive on the income derived from his writings and tormented by his infatuation with Fanny Osbourne a married American woman His response was to embark on a journey through the Cevennes with a donkey Modestine and a notebook which he later transformed into lsquoTravels with a Donkeyrsquo Just a few months after publication Stevenson was off again - this time crossing the Atlantic and the breadth of America in the hope of being re-united with Fanny an experince he recored in the lsquoThe Amateur Emigrantrsquo Both pieces are classics of travel writing which reveal as much about Stevensonrsquos character as the landscape he travels through
MAPS
Many types of maps are available for this region but I recommend those produced by the Institute Geographique Nationale (IGN)
They have two series of walking maps which are suitable for our canoeing needs
The Top25 series is at a scale of 4cm to the km and the Top100 series is at a scale of 1cm to the km
For the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
TOP25 IGN 2640OT Gorges du Tarn et de la JonteCausse MejeanPn des Cevennes (GPS)
TOP100 IGN 162 RodezMillau
TOP25 IGN 2939OT Gorges de lArdecheBourg-Saint-AndeolVallon-Pont-DArc (Gps)
This map doesnrsquot cover the Gardon Ceze Chassezac or the upper Ardeche just the Gorge of the Ardeche
TOP100 IGN 163 AvignonNimes
This map covers all the rivers on the trip
These maps are available to buy online at IGN and at the usual online book shops
I would recommend the TOP100 maps We have all these maps with us on the trips
G R E E N R I V E R
Green River CanoesWe provide Guided Inn-to-Inn Canoeing Holidays to the south of France in the Perigord Lot Ardeche and Tarn regions
We provide hand-crafted vacations to combine a pleasant activity canoeing with an insight into the regional history and natural history whilst enjoying the local foods and wines
All our holidays comprise of mostly canoeing with some (often optional) hiking The itinerary is planned but is flexible enough to be changed on the day if required
All our holidays are guided Our guests will be accompanied on the river and trail by an experienced guide who knows the area and rivers well Our other guide will accompany us in the background by driving our vehicle between lodgings When necessary this vehicle will be transferring our luggage meeting with us for lunch and generally being available as and when needed
FICTION
Travels with a Donkey in the Ceacutevennes and the Amateur Emigrant by Robert Louis Stevenson
In 1878 Robert Louis Srtevenson was suffereing from poor health struggling to survive on the income derived from his writings and tormented by his infatuation with Fanny Osbourne a married American woman His response was to embark on a journey through the Cevennes with a donkey Modestine and a notebook which he later transformed into lsquoTravels with a Donkeyrsquo Just a few months after publication Stevenson was off again - this time crossing the Atlantic and the breadth of America in the hope of being re-united with Fanny an experince he recored in the lsquoThe Amateur Emigrantrsquo Both pieces are classics of travel writing which reveal as much about Stevensonrsquos character as the landscape he travels through
MAPS
Many types of maps are available for this region but I recommend those produced by the Institute Geographique Nationale (IGN)
They have two series of walking maps which are suitable for our canoeing needs
The Top25 series is at a scale of 4cm to the km and the Top100 series is at a scale of 1cm to the km
For the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
TOP25 IGN 2640OT Gorges du Tarn et de la JonteCausse MejeanPn des Cevennes (GPS)
TOP100 IGN 162 RodezMillau
TOP25 IGN 2939OT Gorges de lArdecheBourg-Saint-AndeolVallon-Pont-DArc (Gps)
This map doesnrsquot cover the Gardon Ceze Chassezac or the upper Ardeche just the Gorge of the Ardeche
TOP100 IGN 163 AvignonNimes
This map covers all the rivers on the trip
These maps are available to buy online at IGN and at the usual online book shops
I would recommend the TOP100 maps We have all these maps with us on the trips
G R E E N R I V E R
Green River CanoesWe provide Guided Inn-to-Inn Canoeing Holidays to the south of France in the Perigord Lot Ardeche and Tarn regions
We provide hand-crafted vacations to combine a pleasant activity canoeing with an insight into the regional history and natural history whilst enjoying the local foods and wines
All our holidays comprise of mostly canoeing with some (often optional) hiking The itinerary is planned but is flexible enough to be changed on the day if required
All our holidays are guided Our guests will be accompanied on the river and trail by an experienced guide who knows the area and rivers well Our other guide will accompany us in the background by driving our vehicle between lodgings When necessary this vehicle will be transferring our luggage meeting with us for lunch and generally being available as and when needed
MAPS
Many types of maps are available for this region but I recommend those produced by the Institute Geographique Nationale (IGN)
They have two series of walking maps which are suitable for our canoeing needs
The Top25 series is at a scale of 4cm to the km and the Top100 series is at a scale of 1cm to the km
For the 12 Day Ardeche and Tarn Trip
TOP25 IGN 2640OT Gorges du Tarn et de la JonteCausse MejeanPn des Cevennes (GPS)
TOP100 IGN 162 RodezMillau
TOP25 IGN 2939OT Gorges de lArdecheBourg-Saint-AndeolVallon-Pont-DArc (Gps)
This map doesnrsquot cover the Gardon Ceze Chassezac or the upper Ardeche just the Gorge of the Ardeche
TOP100 IGN 163 AvignonNimes
This map covers all the rivers on the trip
These maps are available to buy online at IGN and at the usual online book shops
I would recommend the TOP100 maps We have all these maps with us on the trips
G R E E N R I V E R
Green River CanoesWe provide Guided Inn-to-Inn Canoeing Holidays to the south of France in the Perigord Lot Ardeche and Tarn regions
We provide hand-crafted vacations to combine a pleasant activity canoeing with an insight into the regional history and natural history whilst enjoying the local foods and wines
All our holidays comprise of mostly canoeing with some (often optional) hiking The itinerary is planned but is flexible enough to be changed on the day if required
All our holidays are guided Our guests will be accompanied on the river and trail by an experienced guide who knows the area and rivers well Our other guide will accompany us in the background by driving our vehicle between lodgings When necessary this vehicle will be transferring our luggage meeting with us for lunch and generally being available as and when needed
G R E E N R I V E R
Green River CanoesWe provide Guided Inn-to-Inn Canoeing Holidays to the south of France in the Perigord Lot Ardeche and Tarn regions
We provide hand-crafted vacations to combine a pleasant activity canoeing with an insight into the regional history and natural history whilst enjoying the local foods and wines
All our holidays comprise of mostly canoeing with some (often optional) hiking The itinerary is planned but is flexible enough to be changed on the day if required
All our holidays are guided Our guests will be accompanied on the river and trail by an experienced guide who knows the area and rivers well Our other guide will accompany us in the background by driving our vehicle between lodgings When necessary this vehicle will be transferring our luggage meeting with us for lunch and generally being available as and when needed
