Great Walls of Pemba Gekoski Aaron · 2019. 7. 25. · 33 Pemba Great Walls The of Big walls and tiny critters are an unusual combination, but the island of Pemba, off the coast of

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PembaGreat WallsThe

of

Big walls and tiny critters are an unusual combination, but

the island of Pemba, off the coast of Tanzania, specialises in both little and large. Aaron

Gekoski takes a plunge on the wild side

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Small iS beautiful: a nudibranch in pemba

the eyeS of a flounder



I’m sat stationary in a taxi, being stared down by an ox. Behind the stubborn beast is a toothless man, perched on a cart laden with coral rock. My feet twitch: it’s an intriguing scene, but after a two-hour drive from the airport through ancient forests and bumpy dirt roads, I’m itching to get down to business.

In case I was under any illusions, Pemba is no ordinary dive destination. Despite lying just 50kms north of Unguja, its tourist-saturated neighbour and the main island in Zanzibar, Pemba remains remarkably underdeveloped – there are only four hotels on the island and little in the way of infrastructure.

ReinventinG the wheelBeneath the waves the contrasts continue. Pemba is all about strong currents and steep underwater walls, as opposed to cruising through Unguja’s laid-back, shallow dives. One thing the islands do have in common is overfishing. With a rapidly expanding population, most of whom live below the poverty line, locals remain heavily reliant on the ocean for protein. The use of dynamite, long lines, gill nets and spears means that Pemba’s dive site Manta Point no longer contains mantas, the schools of pelagics are shrinking, and turtles are rarely seen. It’s an all too familiar tale for Africa’s vast coastline.

Pemba has adapted to these pressures and partly reinvented itself as a place where the miniature wonders blossom among great walls of coral. Thankfully I’m a keen macro photographer: everyone knows what a dolphin looks like, but what about a harlequin shrimp, a feather duster worm, or a dragon moray eel?

SwAhili DiveRSAfter a couple of hefty slaps on its juicy looking bottom, the ox finally lumbers past, revealing the entrance to Swahili Divers. Owned by an English national of Turkish descent, Farhat Jah – or ‘Raf’ as he is known – appears to polarise opinion among people here: as the Lonely Planet guidebook puts it, ‘you either love him or hate him’. Raf’s away during my stay, so sadly I don’t get to form my own opinion.

Swahili Divers is, without doubt, the most rural dive centre I’ve come across in years working as an underwater journalist. The accompanying lodge, Kervan Saray, has a slightly salty, wind-swept feel to it. While the dive centre itself is not without charm, it might benefit from a lick of paint here and a dab of cement there. We are, however, in deepest rural Africa – why pretend otherwise?

I’m met by fellow Englishmen Darren and Craig – incredibly thorough and professional instructors who’ve clocked up more than 6,000 dives between them. Over breakfast Darren pulls me aside to chat through the diving. The majority of dive sites, he explains, are concentrated in the gaps that separate Pemba from the tiny islands of Fundo and Njao.

miniature wonderS: a flat worm in full flight; a cloSe up of a durban dancing Shrimp; a goby SitS on a whip coral

hard coralS thriving on

pemba'S reefS

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chriStmaS tree wormS


»

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There are eight dive sites in each gap, some with vast underwater walls that plunge down over 100m. Unlike nearby islands Mafia and the rest of the Zanzibar archipelago, Pemba is not part of the continental shelf. The water that flows through the Pemban Channel brings with it a high density of nutrients, so life thrives. It’s the huge volume of water that accounts for visability that can reach 50m on a good day.

GettinG to woRkDisappointingly, this isn’t one of those good days and the water at Njao Gap, a 15-minute sail away from Swahili Divers, looks ominously green. Darren kick-starts proceedings at Trigger Wall, which contains a number of staggered coral plateaus, caves and tight swim-throughs.

After all these years reading about them, I’m finally here, exploring Pemba’s walls of coral. Like a kid in a candy store I find myself at the back of the dive group, snapping various colourful treats. This means I’m the only one to witness a black and white shape contorting and dancing its way towards me – a flat worm in full flight. Finally catching up with the group, I see Darren – regulator out, mask off – sporting a face full of white banded cleaner shrimp.

Our second dive is to Egger’s Ascent. A sharp current eases us towards a steep slope that’s lined with coral bommies. But it’s the day’s third dive that really catches my attention. The

site is called Aquarium (and what dive destination worth it’s salt doesn’t have a site called Aquarium?). Fish swamp a large outcrop of table, whip and brain corals. From the banded and bearded, to the spotted and striped, they’re everywhere.

And then there’s Tony, the resident trumpetfish. Tony is an affable creature who uses divers as cover to hunt for tasty morsels among the coral. But it’s the smaller guys I’m excited to see. I spot four different coloured leaf fish, a mantis shrimp who has built his lair out of coral, a clown shrimp that lives on an anemone that retracts if touched [not that divers should ever touch anything – ed], and more goodies I’m too excited about to even recall. It is, quite simply, the best macro dive I’ve ever done.

BAck on lAnDAfter salivating over Aquarium’s macro goodies, we arrive back to the dive centre in desperate need of a sundowner on Kervan Saray’s deck overlooking the Indian Ocean. As the sky blackens overhead, it awakens bush babies who fight (or fornicate – I’m not sure which) in the trees above.

Dinner here is usually a simple, yet plentiful affair – often soup, followed by fresh fish and local veg, topped off with doughnuts in custard for dessert. There are no frills and definitely no

above: relaxing on Kervan Saray'S decKleft: the wallS which are pemba'S main attraction for diverS


tony, a reSident trumpetfiSh at aquarium dive Site

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Pringles or chocolate bars on offer – if you want a snack, you can eat some roasted nuts like the locals do. After dinner, I head off for eight of the soundest hours sleep I’ve had in a long time.

Over a breakfast of omelette and fruit, assistant manager Tiffany explains the lodge staff have to preorder eggs a couple of days in advance, which gives the villagers time to round up the roaming chickens. Now that’s truly free-range. Coffee is an odd, muddy concoction and chai tea is brewed here with cinnamon and cloves. With 3.5 million clove trees on the island, Pemba supplies 70 per cent of the world’s market.

Back on the dive boat, we find Njao Gap still a bit murky so we head to Aquarium again. This time I’m fortunate to see a moray eel having its teeth cleaned by more white banded cleaner shrimp. Darren is less lucky: he gets too close and the moray bites him on the finger with its sparkly clean gnashers.

In the evening, Darren – bandaged finger and all – leads us on a mini expedition along the beach to find a coconut crab. The largest land crab in the world, this globally endangered species can weight up to 4kg. We find a juvenile and watch it scale the restaurant’s beams, as I perform a ‘viz dance’ in the hope of bringing in clean water for tomorrow’s dives.

The gods don’t respond. Craig counters their snub by taking me north to dive near Pemba’s lighthouse. This means I get to see nearby Manta Resort’s newly installed underwater bedroom. From the surface it’s an unprepossessing wooden concoction, suspended in the middle of the ocean. However I’m sure the room itself is nice (for $1,500 per night, it should be).

Back at the gaps, at dive site Rudi’s Wall, Craig’s the first to spot a large blotched fantail ray resting in a swim-through. After this he finds an octopus that would rather sit in a hole than pose for a picture (quite sensible). Our safety stop in a bed of seagrass, which is home to lengthy rope-like sea cucumbers and gigantic orange nembrothas, beats hanging in mid-ocean for three minutes.

With conditions still not playing ball, I concentrate on the macro life that Darren and Craig are so adept at unearthing. They take me to dive sites with some rather peculiar names, including Emilio’s Back Passage (great vertical walls covered in corals and sponge that plunge to 45m), DF Malan (stepped walls with a couple of underwater ‘islands’ and 50 uninterrupted

metres of large table corals), Snapper Point (lots of nudibranches in the shallows and schools of big eye snapper), Manta Point (challenging currents and an underwater mountain that rises to within 5m of the surface, with great macro on top) and Aquarium several more times. I’d like to think that Tony the trumpetfish recognises me by now. Surface intervals are spent on tiny beaches and coves lined with baobab, mango, cashew, papaya and banana trees. They’re simply idyllic places to eat sweet pancakes and drink muddy coffee.

One day, we break up the diving with a spooky kayak trip among the mangroves. You get the feeling that one wrong turn and you might never find your way out. On our return to the lodge the tide’s out and we search for nocturnal creatures among the jaggedy rock pools – a toe-stubber’s paradise. Craig’s torch reveals a flounder the size of my fingernail, a baby octopus that uses its tentacles to hunt among the crevasses, a leafy green nudibranch and some huge brittle stars.

In true Hollywood style, we save the best dives until last. The viz Gods have finally brought in clear water. They’ve even put on a leaving party at Egger’s Ascent, inviting a dozen giant trevally that hurtle towards us for a good stare. Following them, a school of great barracuda torpedo by watched on by fusiliers, unicornfish and surgeonfish. And as we begin our ascent, Craig spots a cuttlefish on the wall.

In such clear water, Trigger Wall is a different proposition to our first dive there and gigantic gorgonian fans beckon us from the deep with spindly fingers. When Cousteau’s Calypso first sailed here in 1967, he described the richness of these waters and remarked on the abundance of fish life. As Pemba’s famous current sweeps me along, I close my eyes and imagine how this site might have looked nearly 50 years ago. While the diving here is still excellent, in Cousteau’s time it must have been out of this world.

it’S A wRApIt’s been a hardcore, thrilling, relentless week of diving. If I haven’t been photographing the fish, I’ve been discussing them, identifying them in books, trying to catch them on hooks, or eating them. Like Pemba’s waters, I’m a little bit fished out. Well, for a day or two anyway.

I crack open a Kilimanjaro – one of Tanzania’s local, tasty beers – and head back to an empty deck to reflect on my time here. This is what Pemba is all about: no other dive boats, no package holidaymakers, no supermarkets, no gimmicks. Just first-rate diving in a place of raw, untamed beauty. As Raf explained in an email before I arrived, ‘Pemba may just be one of the last remaining diving wildernesses’. I couldn’t have put it better myself.

Aaron Gekoski is a journalist, photographer and videographer based in Cape Town. He writes for FHM, National Geographic Traveller and Africa Geographic. He's sponsored by Cameras Underwater, www.camerasunderwater.co.uk. www.aarongekoski.com

“ He gets too close and the moray bites him on the finger with its sparkly clean gnashers

GettinG theRe:Fly from Zanzibar to Pemba: www.zanair.com, www.coastalaviation.com Between $90-110 one way from Stone Town to Chake Chake.

when to Go:Conditions are good from July to March, with the best period between July and November when a southern wind brings in clear, cold water. Humpbacks visit the region from July to October.

lAnGuAGe: Swahili

cuRRency: Tanzanian shillings

pRiceS:Due to its remote location, it’s not cheap to dive here. Packages start at 2 nights accommodation plus 3 dives for $470. More information can be found on www.swahilidivers.com.

MiSAli iSlAnD:Receives rave reviews for its coral and fish life. Over an hour’s boat ride away, visiting requires a minimum of five divers paying an additional $70pp to cover the fuel costs. -ReMeMBeR:Pemba’s a Muslim country so dress appropriately. That means no bare shoulders or short shorts when you’re outside the resorts.

Need to know:

a jellyfiSh at the Surface


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Great Walls of Pemba Gekoski Aaron · 2019. 7. 25. · 33 Pemba Great Walls The of Big walls and tiny critters are an unusual combination, but the island of Pemba, off the coast of