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6 4,500,000,000 YEARS AGO Oklahoma City is halfway between Los Angeles and Washington D.C. 1160 MILES GREAT PLAINS ROCKY MOUNTAINS LOS ANGELES PRIME MERIDIAN EQUATOR LATITUDE is calculated in degrees above and below the EQUATOR. LONGITUDE is determined in degrees from a MERIDIAN running through the north and south poles. PALEOZOIC ERA. 570,000,000– 250,000,000 years ago (early life). Sea water covered much of Oklahoma. Deposits of early marine life leave thick layers of limestone, dolomite , and silica-rich sand. The igneous rocks that formed in southwestern and south central Oklahoma are exposed today in the Wichita and Arbuckle Mountains. Most of the landmass in Oklahoma today was deposited and exposed as the sea water receded. Red beds of sandstone, mudstone, shales, gypsum beads, and salt were deposited. In this era, organic rich deposits of oil, gas and coal occurred during the Devonian, Mississippian, Pennsylvanian and Permian periods where much of Oklahoma’s production of these resources are found today. During the Pennsylvanian, the greatest mountain building occurred due to folding, faulting and uplifting of earlier rock formations to create the Wichita, Arbuckle and Ouachita Mountains. PRE-CAMBRIAN. 4,500,000,000– 570,000,000 years ago Proterozoic igneous rocks underlie most of Oklahoma, and along with Cambrian igneous rocks, form the basis on which later Paleozoic rocks were deposited. The oldest rocks on the surface of Oklahoma include Blue River Gneiss and granites exposed in the Arbuckle Mountains are from this period. Columbus and early explorers used the sun and stars to navigate the oceans. They charted their positions during voyages by using a system of LATITUDE and LONGITUDE. LATITUDE lines run east and west (side to side). LONGITUDE lines run north and south (up and down). LATITUDE was calculated by observing the altitude of the sun or of charted stars above the horizon. LONGITUDE is harder and requires a way of keeping time. It took some of the best scientific minds centuries to accurately determine longitude. OZARK PLATEAU

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Page 1: GreAt PLAins OzArk LOs AnGeLes PLAteAu · PRimE mERidiAn EquAtOR LAtitudE is calculated in degrees above and below the EquAtOR. LOnGitudE is determined in degrees from a mERidiAn

6

4,500,000,000 YEARS AGO 10,000 YEARS AGO

Oklahoma City is halfway between Los Angeles and Washington D.C.

1 1 6 0 m i L e s

GreAt PLAins

rO

Ck

y m

Ou

nt

Ain

s

LOs AnGeLes

PRimE mERidiAn

EquAtOR

LAtitudE is calculated in degrees above and below the EquAtOR. LOnGitudE is determined in degrees from a mERidiAn running through the north and south poles.

PALEOzOic ERA. 570,000,000–250,000,000 years ago (early life). Sea water covered much of Oklahoma. Deposits of early marine life leave thick layers of limestone, dolomite , and silica-rich sand. The igneous rocks that formed in southwestern and south central Oklahoma are exposed today in the Wichita and Arbuckle Mountains.

Most of the landmass in Oklahoma today was deposited and exposed as the sea water receded. Red beds of sandstone, mudstone, shales, gypsum

beads, and salt were deposited. In this era, organic rich deposits of

oil, gas and coal occurred during the Devonian, Mississippian, Pennsylvanian and Permian periods where much of Oklahoma’s production of these resources are found today. During the Pennsylvanian, the greatest mountain building occurred due to folding, faulting and uplifting of earlier rock formations to create the Wichita, Arbuckle and Ouachita Mountains.

PRE-cAmbRiAn. 4,500,000,000–570,000,000 years ago Proterozoic igneous rocks underlie most of Oklahoma, and along with Cambrian igneous rocks, form the basis on which later Paleozoic rocks were deposited. The oldest rocks on the surface of Oklahoma include Blue River Gneiss and granites exposed in the Arbuckle Mountains are from this period.

columbus and early explorers used the sun and stars to navigate the oceans. they charted their positions during voyages by using a system of LAtitudE and LOnGitudE. LAtitudE lines run east and west (side to side). LOnGitudE lines run north and south (up and down). LAtitudE was calculated by observing the altitude of the sun or of charted stars above the horizon. LOnGitudE is harder and requires a way of keeping time. it took some of the best scientific minds centuries to accurately determine longitude.

OzArk PLAteAu

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W h e r e I s O k l a h O m a ?

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4,500,000,000 YEARS AGO 10,000 YEARS AGO

Where Is Oklahoma?Oklahoma, located in the middle of the continental United States, is easily recognized by its shape. It is at the meeting point of the major geographic regions. The sweep of the Great Plains enters from to the north; mountains and arid highlands blend in from the west; wooded wetlands of the Ozarks are in the east; and Gulf Coast Plains come up from the south. Because of this location, Oklahoma has rapid weather changes and more geographic regions within its boundaries than almost any other state.

mESOzOic ERA. 250,000,000–65,000,000 million years ago (middle life). Oklahoma starts emerging as a land mass beginning with the Panhandle during Triassic times. As more land emerged in the Jurassic, dinosaurs started populating the area. The Gulf of Mexico extended northward for a time creating inland seas. Evidence of meat-eating dinosaurs and mammals have been found from the Cretaceous Period.

OkLAhOmA covers nearly 70,000 square miles, ranking nineteenth in size in the united States. Oklahoma is larger than any state east of the mississippi River and larger than most European countries. Our widest east-west border is 464 miles, the longest north-south border is 320 miles.

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WAshinGtOn D.C.

cEnOzOic ERA. 65,000,000–10,000 years ago. The Rocky Mountains formed and gently lifted Oklahoma causing the last withdrawal of sea water. The erosional remnants of lava flows in New Mexico can be seen in Black Mesa. Sand, clay and gravel eroded from the Rocky Mountains is deposited in the western part of the state.

This was the epoch of the Great Ice Age. Ice sheets reached as far as Kansas but never extended into Oklahoma. Winds carried dust from glacial outwash to northern Oklahoma leaving good soil

for crops. Rivers from glacial meltwater in the mountains initiated the state’s drainage and river system. Groundwater from glacial melts formed aquifers that provide water for irrigation, cities, and livestock and domestic use.

A mixture of prairie grasslands and woodlands covered central and western areas. Dense forest formed in eastern areas.

Extinct forms of mammals inhabited Oklahoma around 12,000–14,000 years ago. Paleo-people arrived 10,000 years ago.

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GeoGraphic reGions of oklahoma

Facts about OklahomaToTal area : 69,903 square miles, making it the 19th largest state

land area : 68,679 square miles

WaTer area : 1,224 square miles in 60 major reservoirs and 200 man-made lakes with 11,600 miles of shoreline; over 75,000 miles of rivers and creeks. Major lakes are Texoma, Eufaula, Hudson, Lake of the Cherokees, Gibson, Oologah, and Keystone. Major rivers are the Arkansas, Canadian, Cimarron, and the Red River

Global posiTion : Between 94° 29' and 103° west longitude and between 33° 41' and 37° north latitude

borders : Oklahoma has borders with six states—Colorado and Kansas on the north, Texas on the south, Missouri and Arkansas on the east, Texas and New Mexico on the west.

HiGHesT poinT : Black Mesa at 4,973 feet above sea level

loWesT poinT : Little River Flood Plain at 287 feet above sea level

Mean elevaTion : 1,300 feet above sea level

GeoGrapHic reGions : 10

nuMber of counTies : 77

HiGHesT TeMperaTure : 120 °F was recorded at Tipton on June 27, 1994

loWesT TeMperaTure : −31 °F was recorded at Nowata on February 10, 2011

WeaTHer : Oklahoma is located in a temperate region and experiences occasional extremes of temperature and precipitation. Most of the state lies in an area known as Tornado Alley with an average 54 tornadoes per year—one of the highest rates in the world.

Oklahoma’s geography influences its climate. In the spring, ferocious thunderheads well up over the horizon, usually from the southwest. Thunderstorms and the clash of cold and hot air spawn tornadoes that skip across the land,

sometimes causing death and destruction. In July and August, warm moist air from the south brings high humidity along with high summer temperatures. The fall season brings great beauty and temperate weather. Winters vary. Sometimes they are mild, but more often they are cold and damp with cold north winds sweeping down the plains and across the state.

Oklahoma’s climatic zones are influenced by a humid belt in the south, a cold climatic belt in the north, a humid belt from the east, and a dry belt from the west. The blending of these climatic conditions produces weather that is usually pleasant but is capable of extremes.

Oklahoma’s average temperature is 60 degrees Fahrenheit, but many summer days exceed 100 degrees. Some winter days see temperatures below zero. However, the days of extreme temperatures seldom last long.

The most unpleasant side of Oklahoma’s weather lies in the occasional blizzard or the more frequent spring tornadoes. Modern weather warning systems and radio-television media help Oklahomans to observe safety precautions during times of danger.

Wind movement dominates much of Oklahoma’s climate. Few days occur when there isn’t at least a gentle breeze. The

HiGH plains

GypsuM Hills

red bed plains

sandsTone Hills

prairie plains

WicHiTa MounTains

red river plains

arbuckle MounTains

ouacHiTa MounTains

ozark plaTeau

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OkLAhOmA is in Tornado Alley, an area of the Plains states where tornadoes are most frequent.

Tornadoes most likely occur during the Spring months of April, May and June when our weather is the most changeable. When dry, cold air from the Arctic collides with warm, moist air from the Gulf of Mexico in a rotating thunderstorm known as a supercell, a rotating column of wind can form. A funnel of wind can occur—reaching speeds as high as 300 miles per hour—that can touch the ground and be carried by the storm system across the land at speeds as fast as 70 miles per hour. The results can be destructive.

The destructive power of a tornado is rated by the F-scale: F2 is significant; F5 is the most destructive rating.

oklaHoMa’s Ten WorsT Tornadoes place date f-scale fatalities

Woodward April 9, 1947 F5 116 Snyder May 10, 1905 F5 97Peggs May 2, 1920 F4 71Antlers April 12, 1945 F5 69Pryor April 27, 1942 F4 52Moore May 3, 1999 F5 36Oklahoma City June 12, 1942 F4 35Moore April 25, 1893 F4 33Moore May 20, 2013 F5 24Bethany Nov. 19, 1930 F4 23McAlester May 8, 1882 F3 21

western half of the state, a part of the Great Plains, gets a steady flow of wind movement.

Rainfall varies widely in the state. The northwest, an arid part of Oklahoma, averages only eighteen inches of annual rainfall. On the other hand, the southeast gets about fifty-six inches. Some areas of the Panhandle have received less than ten inches in a year. But, in 1949, part of southeastern Oklahoma received nearly seventy inches of rainfall.

Oklahoma’s geographic location in the United States causes some difficulty in placing it in a specific region. Some writers place it in the Southwest while others claim its location is in the South or South-central parts. It is situated between 94° 29' and 103° west longitude and 33° 41' and 37° north latitude. It shares state borders with Texas, New Mexico, Colorado, Kansas, Missouri, and Arkansas. The latitudinal location of the state places it between the forests of the East and the grasslands of the West and between the low elevations of the Coastal Plain and the high elevations of the Rocky Mountains. Even the growing season lies between the long growing season of south Texas and the shorter growing season of the northern states.

Landforms in Oklahoma are dominated by small ranges of hills and mountains. The Ouachita Mountains are formed by curving ridges made up of the Kiamichi Mountains and Winding Stair Mountain. These mountains have rough, rugged terrain, covered with thick forests. The San Bois Mountains make up the northern part of the Ouachitas.

Western Oklahoma is mostly plains, but small, rocky mountain ranges jut upward from the surrounding prairie lands. The Wichita Mountains and their neighbors, the Quartz Mountains, are landforms in southwestern Oklahoma.

The Arbuckle Mountains lie in south-central Oklahoma. They are the subject of study for geology students throughout the south-central and southwestern United States. The Cookson Hills in eastern Oklahoma form a part of the Ozark Plateau of Arkansas and Missouri. The Antelope Hills in western Oklahoma and Black Mesa in northwestern Oklahoma dominate the western plains of the state. The Osage Hills are a part of the Flint Hills of Kansas. The Glass Mountains lie between the North Canadian and the Cimarron Rivers in northwestern Oklahoma.

Of all the mountain ranges, the greatest interest is directed toward the Arbuckles. The Arbuckle Mountains cover a

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1301201101009080706050

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numbER Of dAYS PER YEAR with thE LOw tEmPERAtuRES bELOw 32º

numbER Of dAYS PER YEAR with thE hiGh tEmPERAtuRES AbOvE 90º

AvERAGE AmOunt Of PREciPitAtiOn PER YEAR

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large area in south-central Oklahoma, just north of Ardmore. They are of particular interest to geologists because the base materials of which the mountains are made are exposed to the surface. This makes it possible for geologists to see formations that usually are hidden below the surface of the land.

Elevations increase rapidly across Oklahoma. The lowest elevation is found in the Coastal Plains, south of the Ouachita Mountains in the southeastern part of the state. There, the elevation is only 287 feet above sea level. The highest elevation occurs at Black Mesa in the Panhandle. Black Mesa is 4,973 feet above sea level. The capital, Oklahoma City, lies 1,243 feet above sea level. Elevation at the southwestern corner of the state is 1,558 feet. When one looks at the elevation from the southwestern corner to the southeastern corner, it is apparent that the Red River, which forms the state’s southern border, falls 1,253 feet as it flows along.

Two of Oklahoma’s rivers form the state’s major drainage systems. The Arkansas River carries about two-thirds of the state’s excess water drainage. The Red River carries the other third of run-off. The Arkansas flows from Colorado and gathers waters from the Cimarron, Verdigris, Illinois , and Grand rivers. Before the Arkansas leaves the state, it gathers water from the Canadian rivers. The Red River begins on the Texas high plains and flows along the southern boundary of the state. It gathers water from the North Fork, Washita, Boggy, Blue, and Kiamichi rivers.

One of Oklahoma’s most scenic areas is found south of Davis at Turner Falls. The falls nestle among the rocks of the Arbuckle Mountains. At seventy-seven feet, Turner Falls is the state’s highest and largest waterfall and is a favorite recreational area for people of the state.

Oklahoma’s vegetation is as varied as its climate and topography. More than 130 different kinds of trees grow in the state. In the east are oak, pine, maple, sweet gum, hickory, pecan, walnut,

sycamore, dogwood, and the state tree, the red bud. One of the most unusual trees in Oklahoma, the cypress, is found at Beavers Bend. In fact, the state’s tallest tree was a cypress tree that grew in McCurtain County. It was killed by lightning in 1983. Pine trees grow rapidly in southeastern Oklahoma. Pine trees are harvested, planted, and re-harvested as a major crop in southeastern Oklahoma. In other parts of the state, pecan and cedar are major timber crops, as is oak.

In the western half of the state, cottonwood, elm, willow, cedar, hackberry, and blackjack trees grow along waterways.

One of the most interesting growths of trees historically is the vegetation belt called the Cross Timbers. Trees grew so thickly that early pioneers had to go around the Cross Timbers. They couldn’t go through them. The Cross Timbers were between five and thirty miles wide and ran along a line from the central part of the state to the southwest. The Cross Timbers served as a dividing line between the forests of the east and the prairies of the west. The stunted growth of blackjack, post oak and other kinds of oak, with their wild grape and greenbriar vines, made traveling through them almost impossible.

Wildflowers and grasses cover the land seasonally. Red, yellow, pink, purple, and white blossoms decorate the pastures and highways. The colorful Indian paintbrush and the Indian Blanket, along with Black-eyed Susans, blooming purple thistles, wild roses, sunflowers, and buttercups grow profusely. The Indian Blanket is the state’s wild flower.

All of the large lakes in Oklahoma are man-made and serve as reservoirs for towns and cities in the state. The largest natural lake is Lake Roebuck near Grant. The man-made lakes have been created for flood control and for conservation purposes. They also provide recreation and power. They are a valuable source of income from the tourist trade in the state. David English

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Satellite View of Oklahoma.

The Ouachita Mountains dominate southeast Oklahoma, with peaks rising as much as 2,000 feet above their base. Extreme east-central Oklahoma features the mountains of the Arkansas River Valley, rising several hundred feet above the plains. Extreme northeastern counties are part of the Ozark Plateau, marked by steep, rocky river valleys between large areas of hills and rolling plains. The western tip of the Panhandle is part of the fractured terrain of the Black Mesa complex.

Oklahoma’s climate is influenced by its location and elevations, ranging from humid subtropical in the lower altitudes of southeast to semi-arid in the higher altitudes of the northwest. Warm, moist air moving northward from the Gulf of Mexico often exerts much influence, particularly over the southern and eastern portions of the state, where humidity, cloudiness and precipitation are resultantly greater than in western and northern sections. Summers are long and usually quite hot. Winters are shorter and less severe than those of the more northern Plains states. Periods of extreme cold are infrequent, and those lasting more than a few days are rare.

Elevation (feet)hiGh 4,977

low 272

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hiGh PLAinS. The flat grasslands of the Panhandle and along part of the western border are the highest region of the state. In part of the Great Plains, the climate is arid with the state’s lowest annual rainfall, hot in the summer, cold in the winter and swept by wind. The covering of short prairie grasses supports abundant wildlife including quail, doves, wild turkey, pheasant, deer, elk, antelope and prairie dogs. Cattle ranching and irrigated farming drive the economy of the area along with natural gas and petroleum production.

The High Plains rise to a height of 4,973 feet at the Black Mesa at the western end of the Panhandle created by prehistoric volcanic activity almost two million years ago. It is a favorite place in Oklahoma to look for evidence of dinosaurs and early Native American inhabitants. At Signature Rock west of Boise City, travelers on the Santa Fe Trail carved their names in a cliff face dating to 1840.

Guymon, Boise City, Beaver, Arnett, Laverne, Shattuck and Kenton are some of the towns found in the region.

pHoTos : (above) View from Black Mesa (left, top to bottom) stag horn antelope, green-tailed towhee, collared lizard, prickly pear cactus flower. the nature conservancy— black mesa preserve

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GYPSum hiLLS. As ancient seas receded, gypsum deposits were left in the western part of the state in an area running from the Kansas border to the southwestern corner. At the surface, the gypsum layer creates small, steep-sided hills or buttes where it caps and protects the red clay soil beneath from erosion. The buttes are sometimes called the Glass, or Gloss, Mountains because the gypsum, a soft white or yellow mineral sometimes forms clear crystals, sparkling like glass in the sunlight. The Gypsum Hills are a network of mesas, canyons, rivers and lakes.

Springs and caves are frequent in the region. Alabaster Caverns near Freedom is the largest gypsum cave in the world. This is open to the public and is home to five different species of bats. Alabaster is a translucent form of gypsum that is easily carved into small sculptures and vessels. There are veins of black alabaster in the cavern, one of only three places in the world where this rare alabaster can be found.

Winter wheat, alfalfa, hay, soybeans and cotton grow in the rich soils of the region along with cattle ranches in the grasslands. Oil and natural gas production occurs throughout the region.

Woodward, Elk City, Clinton, Cordell, and Sayre are in this area of the state.

pHoTos : (above) Canyon on the Canadian River (riGht, top to bottom) Gloss Mountain capstone and erosion, cave bat, grasshopper, horned toad. the nature conservancy— four canyon preserve

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REd bEd PLAinS. This region has the largest of any land area and is the most populated region. It extends from Kansas to Texas in a wide sweep through the middle of the state. The gently rolling land slopes downward from west to east. The eastern part has forested areas, and the western part contains mostly grassy and agricultural lands. The region has fairly fertile soil. Farmers grow wheat and hay in the north, cotton, peanuts and farm-to-market vegetable crops farther south. There are grasslands for cattle and horses. Oil fields have been developed in some parts of the region.

Evaporating seas left salt deposits forming the Great Salt Plains in this region. It is a major resting area for thousands of migrating birds including Canadian geese and pelicans. It was an important supply of salt for early inhabitants.

Scenic Roman Nose State Park has free-flowing spring water and was at one time a Cheyenne campground. The Little Sahara on the Cimarron river near Waynoka is a popular recreational area with more than 1,600 acres of sand dunes deposited by glacial run-off from the Rocky Mountains during the Great Ice Age. Most of the Cross Timbers occur in this region.

Oklahoma City is at the center with the surrounding communities of Edmond, Harrah, Midwest City, Del City, Moore, Norman and Yukon. Alva, Enid, Ponca City, Stillwater, Guthrie, Chickasha, El Reno and Duncan are also in the region.

pHoTos : (above) Cross Timbers (left, top to bottom) coneflower, wild turkey, grasslands, spiderwort. the nature conservancy— pontotoc ridGe preserve

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SAndStOnE hiLLS. Hilly grasslands, areas of dense woodlands and sandstone bluffs rising up to 400 feet define this region. The hills and bluffs were formed when shale and soil eroded away from the sandstone formations.

The Cross Timbers extend into the western areas. Valleys and floodplains, along creeks and rivers, between the hills are cleared to grow corn, soybeans and fruit in the rich soil. Big Buestem, Indian grass and switchgrass can be found in the Tallgrass Prairie Preserve in the Flint Hills north of Pawhuska where buffalo graze as they did hundreds of years ago.

Oil was discovered in the Sandstone Hills during the late 1800s and early 1900s. In the 1920s, Osage Indians were considered some of the wealthiest people in the country when oil was found on their reservation. There are still important wells in the region today.

The communities of Sand Springs, Sapulpa and Cleveland, to the west of Tulsa, are in this region and Pawhuska is to the north. Shawnee, Ada, Holdenville, Wewoka, Coalgate and Atoka are in the south. Keystone, the largest lake in the Sandstone Hills, is located where the Arkansas and Cimarron Rivers meet.

pHoTos : (above) Buffalo grazing, Tallgrass Prairie (riGht, top to bottom) Big Bluestem, Cross Timbers, white-tailed deer. the nature conservancy— tallGrass prairie preserve

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PRAiRiE PLAinS. The natural vegetation of this irregular geographic area is a mosaic of grassland and forest with wide, forested strips along the streams and grassland prairies between. The region supports the biggest variety of agriculture in the state with farming and cattle ranching. In the Arkansas River Valley, farmers grow vegetable crops such as tomatoes, spinach, carrots and snap beans. The region is known for its peach and apple orchards, along with strawberry, blueberry and blackberry farms throughout the area.

Most of the state’s coal — mostly strip-mined from the surface — and large amounts of petroleum come from this region.

Water is an important source of recreation and commerce. Lake Eufaula is the largest in the state, and there is also Lake Oologah. The McClellan-Kerr River Navigation System created navigable channels from the Mississippi River up the Arkansas to Muskogee where it follows the Verdigris to reach Catoosa. The Port of Catoosa is one of the largest, most inland, international shipping ports in the United States. A barge can reach New Orleans in abut ten days from Catoosa traveling through five locks and dams in Oklahoma and fourteen in Arkansas in the 445 mile distance to reach the Mississippi River system.

Tulsa, the state’s second-largest city, along with Owasso, Broken Arrow, Bartlesville and Muskogee, are in this region.

pHoTos : (above) the nature conservancy— keystone ancient forest preserve (left, top to bottom) Downtown Tulsa, Porter peaches, McClellan-Kerr Navigational Channel dam and lock.

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OzARk PLAtEAu. The majority of this limestone plateau, shared with Missouri and Arkansas, covers Oklahoma’s northeast corner It is forested with hickory as the predominant type, but stands of oak and pine are also common. Less than one- fourth of this region has been cleared for pasture and cropland. There are plenty of hills, swift streams and steep river valleys. The areas between the river valleys are broad and flat. Steep bluffs have been formed where streams cut into the plateau. Many of the fast-flowing streams in the Ozark Plateau have been dammed for hydroelectric power, flood control and recreation.

The Illinois and Grand are the two main rivers. The Grand River has three dams creating the Grand Lake O’ the Cherokees, Hudson Lake and Ft. Gibson Reservoir. The Illinois River is popular for scenic float trips.

Miami, Grove, Vinita, Pryor and Tahlequah are the major cities in the region.

pHoTos : (above) Oklahoma Ozarks, Goat Bluff, Illinois River (riGht, top to bottom) coreopsis, hay fields, elk, spring-water stream. the nature conservancy— J. t. nickel family nature and wildlife preserve

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REd RivER PLAinS. The low elevations of the Red River flood plain in the southeastern part of the state are included in the Gulf Coastal Plain with a warmer climate and longer growing season. Swampy wetlands with seeps and bogs are found in the low-lying eastern end of the plains. Loblolly and shortleaf pine are the predominate forest providing pulpwood and lumber products for the economy of the area.

At one time, a dozen circuses wintered near the town of Hugo because of its mild climate and railroad access. Mount Olivet Cemetery features a special area known as “Showman’s Rest,” which features unique headstones and gravesites for circus performers and owners.

River travel was made difficult on the Red River by a 150-mile long logjam and flood debris known as the “Great Raft.” Efforts to clear the river began in 1833 and took almost forty years to complete. Once cleared, steamboat travel was used to supply the forts of Towson, Washita and Arbuckle.

When cleared, the rich soil was productive for Chickasaw and Choctaw cotton plantations. Cotton and peanuts are still major crops there today.

Water sports and fishing are popular at Lakes Texoma, Murray and Hugo. Durant, Madill, Hugo and Idabel are the major towns.

pHoTos : (above) Red River wetlands (left, top to bottom) Lake Texoma Catch of the Day (oktourism), Showman’s Rest, Hugo dogwood blossom. the nature conservancy— boehler seeps and sandhills preserve

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wichitA mOuntAinS. The huge granite boulders exposed millions of years’ of erosion in the Wichitas area from the Pre-Cambrian Eon, some of the oldest formations on earth.

The mountains are home to numerous working ranches and quarry operations, the state reformatory, recreational homes and campsites, and scenic parklands. Fort Sill, home of the U.S. Army Field Artillery School, occupies a large portion of the southeastern end of the mountains.

The nearly 60,000-acre Wichita Mountains National Wildlife Refuge is a favorite for hikers and rock climbers. Just a short drive from Lawton, the refuge is located adjacent to Cache, Medicine Park, Indiahoma, and the historic gold-mining town of Meers. Mixed prairie grasses at the base of the mountains are a remnant of the past and home to longhorn cattle, buffalo, elk and deer. A paved road leads to the 2,464 foot summit of Mount Scott, offering a stunning view of the mountains to the west.

Nearby Fort Sill was established in 1869 to stop hostile Plains Indian tribes from raiding settlements in Kansas and Texas. In 1894, as part of this effort, Geronimo and his band of Chiricahua Apache raiders were brought to live in villages scattered around the post where they remained for the next ten years.

pHoTos : (above) Last light in the Wichitas (riGht, top to bottom) view form the top of Mount Scott (oktourism), Wichita Mountains, prairie dogs, longhorn cattle.

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ARbuckLE mOuntAinS. Spreading over an area of 1,000 square miles in south-central Oklahoma, the Arbuckles are part of an ancient mountain system. Millions of years ago, they were once as high as Asia’s Himalayas, the highest mountain system in the world today. Erosion over the centuries has worn them down until they now rise only 600 to 700 feet high. The erosion has uncovered unusual rock formations. Like the Wichitas, they run east and west while most mountain systems in the continental United States run north and south.

The Arbuckles contain the most diverse mineral resources in Oklahoma: limestone, dolomite, glass sand, granite, sand and gravel, shale, iron ore, lead, zinc, tar sands, and oil and gas. Much of the land in the region is used to raise cattle.

Water rarely is found on top of the Arbuckle Mountains. The water seeps through fractures and planes in the limestone bedrock into a network of caves and conduits, emerging as springs. The springs provide the flows of the Blue River and Honey Creek which flows over Turner Falls south of Davis. The inviting spring water flows of the Chickasaw National Recreational Area near Sulphur has made it one of the most popular parks in the country.

pHoTos : (above) Blue River (left, top to bottom) Bois d’Arc Osage orange or hedge apple; blue-tailed butterfly, mayfly. the nature conservancy— oka yanahli (blue river) preserve

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OuAchitA mOuntAinS. These mountains consist of high sandstone ridges running east to west that form the most rugged land surface in southeast Oklahoma. Spring-fed streams pass through the narrow valleys between the ridges. Forests of loblolly and shortleaf pine in the region make lumbering the region’s most important industry.

The tree-covered rough terrain with caves provided shelter for the earliest inhabitants and later, Robbers Cave was a known hideout for outlaws. Winding Stairs, Jack Fork, Blue Bouncer and Kiamichi are some the names given to the rugged ridges.

The fall foliage is spectacular making the Talimena Drive between Talahina, Oklahoma, and Mena, Arkansas, a popular destination. The state parks in the region — Clayton Lake and Lake Wister, Beavers Bend, Spiro Mounds, and Robbers Cave — are all active recreational areas.

pHoTos : (above) View of the Ouachitas (riGht, top to bottom) waterfall, Talimena Drive (oktourism), common box turtle (Terrapene carolina), chinquapin oak. the nature conservancy— cucumber creek preserve

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AquifERS ARE undERGROund wAtER SOuRcES. Wells can be drilled into them and the water pumped out. They provide a valuable resource. Over half the fresh water used in Oklahoma comes from these aquifers. They can be at various depths. Alluvial or terrace aquifers lie close to the surface and are replenished by local rainfall, lakes and rivers seeping into them. Others, which lie deep beneath the surface and are confined in bedrock, are slower to replenish when water is pumped from them.

The Oglala aquifer is the largest and most important in the state. It is confined to bedrock that runs from Texas to South Dakota providing irrigation and drinking water for the Panhandle region. It is being used faster than it can replenished. Water conservation is becoming an important issue for the future of agriculture on the High Plains.

OkLAhOmA’S mAjOR undERGROund wAtER SOuRcES

ALLuviAL & tERRAcE AquifERS

bEdROck AquifERS

Twenty-three major groundwater basins provide water to 40 per cent of the cities and farms in Oklahoma. The Oklahoma Water Resources Board monitors water quality and usage in the state. Groundwater is considered private property that belongs to the overlaying owner.

oGalala

norTH canadian rivercanadian river

WasHiTa river

elk ciTy rusH sprinGs

ciMarron river

Garber-WellinGTon

anTlers

vaMoosa-ada

red river

arbuckle-siMpsonarbuckle- TiMbered Hills

blaine

norTH fork/ red river

arkansas river

salT fork of THe arkansas

roubidoux

TillMan Terrace

enid Terrace

Where Does Our Water Come From?

canadian river

norTH canadian

river

WasHiTa river

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LAkES, RivERS And StREAmS ARE SuRfAcE wAtER SOuRcES. There are more manmade lakes in Oklahoma than any other state. Most are made for flood control, water for cities, industry, and agricultural use. As the need for water in Oklahoma grows, who owns the water and who can use it has become an important issue. Stream water is defined to include “water in ponds, lakes, reservoirs, and dry lakes.” Streamwater is considered to be publicly owned and allocated by the Oklahoma Water Resources Board by permit so the use can be monitored.

Oklahoma has two major rivers. The Arkansas starts in the Rocky Mountains of Colorado and runs nearly 1,500 miles to meet the Mississippi River. It provides drainage to the northern part of the state. It also plays an important role as a link in the McClellan-Kerr Navigational system that provides commercial shipping from the Port of Catoosa to the port of New Orleans and beyond.

The Red River defines the southern border. It provide drainage to a large area with the Washita, North Fork Blue, Boggy and Kiamichi as tributaries. Water and mineral rights to the Red River have been an area of dispute with Texas on several occasions since statehood.

Who Owns the Water?

OkLAhOmA’S LAkES & RivERS

lakeslargemediumsmall

Oklahoma has a surprising number of rivers and streams, more than 500. There are 34 major reservoirs and hundreds of small lakes and ponds that supply 60 percent of the water we consume for agriculture, industry and water supplies for towns and cities. Lakes also play an important role in recreation. Most of the state parks are located on their shorelines.