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NEW CANADIAN ARTISTAriana Gillis

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Coming Next Issue

PUBLISHER/CREATIVE DIRECTOR Shannon Bisnaire

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Deborah Melman-Clement

Victoria Walsh

Laura Branson

Ruth Gangbar

PHOTOGRAPHER/GRAPHIC ARTIST Peter Law

ADVERTISING SALES DIRECTOR John Puddy

ASSOCIATE SALES DIRECTOR Christine Nicholson

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Deborah Revell, Gwen Smith, Nicholas Wattson

Savoury Bacon

and more...

FALL ISSUE

2 GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER | 2011

Publisher’s Note

Personal Injury Civil Litigation Family LawCriminal Defense Disability Claims Auto Accidents

Workplace Safety & Insurance Board Appeals

613- 967-9930 161 Front St. Downtown Belleville

www.pcslaw.ca

Approachable. Professional. Aggressive.

613-967-9930

Personal Injury Civil Litigation Family Law Criminal Defense Disability Claims Auto Accidents


161 Front St. Downtown Bellevillewww.pcdlaw.ca

Personal Injury Civil Litigation Family LawCriminal Defense Disability Claims Auto Accidents


613- 967-9930 161 Front St. Downtown Belleville

www.pcslaw.ca

Approachable. Professional. Aggressive.

GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER| 2011 3

PUBLISHER’S NOTEPublisher’s Note

Shannon Bisnaire,Publisher/Creative Director

[email protected]

F rom a publisher’s perspective, the ability to offer our readers and advertisers new and innovative ways to enjoy our content is very exciting. The world of print publishing has expanded to the digital world and our audience can now grow from local and regional to national and international with the click of a button.

who. So I joined them. And the way I read magazines has evolved too. Don’t get me wrong,

my hammock, relaxing on the sofa or in the bathtub. (I wouldn’t bring my iPad in the tub.) But the iPad is a nice kitchen companion and many use it to scroll through recipes while they’re cooking.

So, this issue we have taken Grapevine Magazine to the next level in a couple of different ways.

Grapevine Magazine’.

photos and our online/digital exclusive titled Join the Club, written by Angela Aiello. If you don’t have an iPad yet, visit our website for additional content.

Secondly, our content has expanded to highlight both local and regional lifestyle activities. Hey, if California wine country can do it, then so can we. Ontario wine country is putting Canada on the global map, and Grapevine Magazine is Ontario Wine Country’s Ultimate Lifestyle Magazine.

In this edition, we introduce you to a new young Canadian talent, Ariana Gillis. According to a former Rolling Stone Magazine critic, “Ariana Gillis is the best new emerging artist

you read the story, either download our iPad edition or visit grapevinemagazine.ca to hear her song, Simon Brooke.

New to Grapevine Magazine is celebrity chef and television personality Anna Olson. Anna’s column this issue features fresh lavender, and many of our wine regions grow it locally. It wouldn’t be Grapevine Magazine if we didn’t have a wine feature. In this issue, we take you through the journey of one of our own writers’ winery weddings. Maybe you’re thinking of a winery wedding in Ontario wine country. Michael Pinkus knows the ropes and shares his personal experience with you. Happy summer reading!


Savour Summer

in the County

Savour Summer

in the County

Your Prince Edward County Vacation Specialists

www.sandbanksvacations.com

1.877.399.2508 613.393.2424 | 57 Main Street, Bloomfield, Ontario


CONTRIBUTORSContributorsOur Writers

NICOLE BERGOT

Nicole is a freelance writer and lifestyle and reality television producer. Originally from Vancouver, Nicole lived in New

York for five years and attended the Columbia Graduate School of Journalism and worked at CNN. She is now based in

Toronto and recently drove the Karakoram Highway through the mountains of northern Pakistan while she was there

covering Karachi Fashion Week.

ANGELA AIELLO

A city girl with country roots, Angela has been immersed in the wine industry for over 12 years. She has a Honours degree in Business Communications from Brock University and founded a free social wine club in Toronto called iYellow Wine Club. She encourages her over 5,500 members to build “wine confidence” through iYellow wine events, wine school, wine tours, through the online 100% VQA wine store and via the website. She is also the regular wine host for the CBC’s Steven & Chris Show and Le Gourmet TV and has been featured in various media such as Cosmo TV, SheDoesTheCity.com, Canada AM, Global TV and The Toronto Star.

BARRY KEITH GRANT

Barry is a professor of film studies and popular culture at Brock University and the founder of the Brock University Film Series. The author of more than 20 books and dozens of articles in magazines, scholarly journals and online, Dr. Grant also wrote the popular weekly column “In Camera” for the St. Catharines Standard from 1998-2005. An elected Fellow of the Royal Society of Canada, in 2010 he was the recipient of the Canadian Association of University Teachers’ prestigious Distinguished Academic Award. 613.393.2424

1.877.399.2508

Savourthe

Tasteof The

County

Wine tours and much more


CONTRIBUTORSContributors

DAVID LAWRASONA former Globe and Mail wine columnist, David is the founder

of Wine Access and the Canadian Wine Awards. He is currently a wine columnist for Toronto Life, Ottawa Magazine, and

WineAlign.com.

www.davidlawrason.com

NATALIE MACLEANOntario native Natalie MacLean was named the World’s Best Drink Writer at the World Food Media Awards and has won four James Beard Journalism awards. Her bestselling book, Red, White and Drunk All Over, was chosen the Best Wine Book at the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards. Natalie offers a free newsletter with wine picks, tips and humour at www.nataliemaclean.com.

561 Danforth Road. 613.399.3000 Prince Edward County

KarloEstates.com

Expect the Unusual

Expect the Unusual

172 Main St, Unit 105Picton, ON K0K 2T0 613 . 476 . 4 3 5 6www.g3living.com

Our Writers

JENNIFER MCLAGANJennifer McLagan has more than 35 years of experience in the

food world and divides her time between Toronto and Paris. Her book Fat was the most critically acclaimed book of 2008:

Best Single Subject Cookbook from the IACP; Cookbook of the Year from James Beard; lead title in the New York Times best

of the year round up; starred review in Publishers Weekly. Similarly her first book first book, Bones, won best single-subject from

James Beard and was an IACP finalist. Jennifer's next book Odd Bits, devoted to cooking the rest of the animal, will be published

in September.

www.jennifermclagan.com or jennifermclagan.blogspot.com.

People say the difference in Twenty Valley wine country is our personal approach. We keep things intimate, so you get more from your visit. You’ll likely find yourself rubbing shoulders with a winemaker or talking shop over a tasting with an owner. But mostly, you’ll find a fresh uncomplicated yet refined Niagara wine experience. Visit twentyvalley.ca for information about our many wine events.13th Street WineryAngels Gate Winery Cave Spring Cellars Creekside Estate WineryDe Sousa Wine Cellars Fielding Estate Winery

Flat Rock Cellars The Good Earth Food & Wine Co. Harbour Estates WineryHenry of Pelham Family Estate Winery Malivoire Wine CompanyMegalomaniac Wines

Mountain Road Wine Company Peninsula Ridge Estates Winery Rosewood Estate Winery & Meadery Stoney Ridge Estate Winery Sue-Ann Staff Estate Winery Tawse Winery

Take Twenty in the undiscovered NiagaraJust one hour south of Toronto, Twenty Valley is home to over 30 award-winning wineries. Enjoy rolling vineyards, spectacular views, and delicious wine tastings. You won’t find two winery experiences the same, but you will find consistently good wines as you explore.

Feeling a bit peckish? Farm-to-table is a way of life in Twenty Valley. From stylish restaurants to casual bistros, “seasonal” winery patios to roadside farmers’ stands…we have something to tantalize every tastebud. You’ll feel well restored after a Twenty Valley food and wine pairing!

Golfing, shopping, hiking the Bruce Trail or stretched out on a massage table…whatever your form of relaxation, we’ve got you covered. Take your Niagara visit to the next level and enjoy a Twenty Valley experience.

June 4-5: Graze the BenchJune 18: Berries & BloomsJune 18-26: New Vintage FestivalJuly 1: Canada Day at Charles Daley ParkJuly 5-August 30: Sunset Music SeriesJuly 16-17: Twenty Valley Run, Wine & DineSeptember 11: Niagara Children’s Water Festival September 16-25: Niagara Wine FestivalOctober 1: Pioneer Day in JordanOctober 7-10: Ball’s Falls Thanksgiving FestivalNovember 12-13/19-20/26-27: Wrapped Up in the ValleyJanuary 14-15: Winter WineFestApril 28-29/May 5-6: Get Fresh in the Valley

Visit twentyvalley.ca or call 905.562.3636 for a copy of our visitor’s map.

Thirty Bench Wine MakersVineland Estates WineryWayne Gretzky Estate Winery

June18: Berries & BloomsJune 18-26: New Vintage FestivalJuly 1: Canada Day at Charles Daley ParkJuly 5-August 30: Sunset Music SeriesJuly 16-17: Twenty Valley Run, Wine & DineSeptember 11: Niagara Children’s Water FestivalSeptember 16-25: Niagara Wine FestivalOctober 1: Pioneer Day in JordanOctober 7-10: Ball’s Falls Thanksgiving FestivalNovember 12-13/19-20/26-27: Wrapped Up in the ValleyJanuary 14-15: Winter WineFestApril 28-29/May 5-6: Get Fresh in the Valley


CONTRIBUTORSContributors

ANNA OLSON

Celebrity chef Anna Olson is most known as host of two cooking programs, Sugar and Fresh with Anna Olson, which air in Canada on Food Network as well as in 40 countries worldwide. She has

authored six bestselling cookbooks, two of which were written with her husband, Michael, a well-known chef and culinary instructor. Current projects include the launch of a new app, the Olson

Recipe Generator, and a new cookbook, Back to Baking, will be released in autumn 2011. She is proud to call Niagara home, and has lived and cooked there for 15 years.

MICHAEL PINKUSMichael Pinkus has had a 20-year love affair with wine. In early 2005, he left a career in radio and combined his love of writing with his passion for wine to become the head writer and all around grape guy for Ontario Wine Review. His mission was to bring Ontario wines into a more positive light, not just for fellow Ontarians, but for Canadians and wine lovers the world over.

www.ontariowinereview.com

JOCELYN ROBERTS

A freelance writer and teacher, Jocelyn has a background in the study of literature and creative writing. Passionate about the arts, she is also an avid photographer. She resides in Newmarket,

Ontario with her teenage daughters, Sophie and Isabelle, her husband Jean, and their dog, Scout.

JOHN SZABO

John is Canada’s first Master Sommelier. He is the author of WineAlign.com’s Vintages Preview and is a principal critic on WineAlign.com. John is part of the Wine Access national tasting panel and a regular contributor to the magazine, and is wine editor for Toronto’s CityBites Magazine. He freelances and is heard regularly on Classical 96.3FM. The rest of his time is spent designing wine programs, teaching, judging and guest speaking around the world. www.johnszabo.com.

GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SPRING | 2011 9


amazed at bygone discipline rituals displayed at the Penitentiary Museum or learn about the underwater graveyard of over 100 vessels that sailed to this port at the Marine Museum of the Great Lakes. You can scuba dive on these ancient relics – some in Deadman’s Bay. There are 22 museums and many art galleries commemorating creative talent, history, geology, communications, archaeology and military history. We even have a Rembrandt! And guarding the entire city from the highest point of land is Eastern Ontario’s largest heritage tourism attraction, Fort Henry National Historic

Site of Canada. Daily interpretive programs educate, engage, enrich and entertain guests including the daily Garrison Pay Parade, Artillery demonstrations and fi ring plus a fun Children’s Military Muster Parade presented 3 times daily throughout the main season. Enjoy a rich, historic dining experience with service by Soldier Servants before you see the World Heritage Sunset Ceremonies, presented Wednesday evenings at 7:30 PM in July and August. This year, the U.S. Marines bring their Silent Drill Platoon and Commandant’s Own Drum and Bugle Corps to the site in August. There are many other exciting interpretive and

music events all summer long not to be missed.Drift through the world famous 1000 Islands from Kingston’s downtown dock on the glass-domed Island Star, offering lunch and dinner cruises with live entertainment and multi-lingual commentary or take shorter cruises on the Island Queen or Island Belle, both Mississippi-style paddle wheelers. Get up close up to view of the new Wolfe Island eco-friendly wind farm, sporting 86 giant turbines. Charter a sailboat just a few blocks down the road and sail silently across Lake Ontario and the St. Lawrence River for lunch or dinner on Wolfe

Island. Or bring your bike across the free ferry and leisurely peddle the entire island with a stop at Big Sandy Bay for a dip.Kingston offers hundreds of locally owner-operated boutiques and restaurants. Live music fl ows from Confederation Park, bordered by historic City Hall and Lake Ontario, a great place to while away the hours as you enjoy an ice cream or a barbecued bite. Summer is alive with the Busker’s Rendezvous, Blues Fest, Arts and Craft Shows, Poker Run Cigarette Boat event or Chile Fest. Kingston’s downtown KROCK Center has presented such world acts as Bryan Adams, The Tragically Hip, Neil Young, k.d. lang, Elton John,

Alan Jackson, Jerry Seinfeld, Leonard Cohen, Anne Murray, Willie Nelson, Gordon Lightfoot, Diana Krall, Bob Dylan and more, offers quality Junior A Hockey and entertainment year round. This season, while enjoying ‘The County’, plan an extra night stay in Kingston to experience metro culture in one of Canada’s oldest, smaller cities. Book your stay today at visitkingston.ca. or call 1.888.855.4555 to get the goods!

This summer, be sure to plan an escape to beautiful, historic and very tasty Prince Edward County. Everything you’ve heard or read about this rural oasis is absolutely true - and it keep’s getting better year after year. Professional vintners, restaurant owners and Innkeepers, all masters of their respective crafts, converge to create tasteful vintages, creative cuisine with locally grown ingredients and well appointed retreats to rest your heads at night. Browse through many funky boutiques and arts and craft galleries on your journey, or spend a sun and sand-drenched day at Sandbanks Park. But since you’re so very close, why not add

some additional fun and fl avour to your most excellent County adventure by scooting east along scenic Highway 33 or down the 401 to historic Kingston – Canada’s First Capital.Kingston has the distinction of being Ontario’s only World Heritage Destination – home to Fort Henry National Historic Site of Canada, the Rideau Canal and the Kingston Fortifi cations, designated by UNESCO in 2007. Originally built as a historic navy port, strategically located at the convergence of the mighty St. Lawrence River, Lake Ontario and the Rideau Canal, Kingston is home to many interesting museums, natural woods and waterfront walking trails,

critically acclaimed festivals and events and .Kingston boasts home to an eclectic collection of Canadian heroes – from hockey’s Don Cherry and Doug Gilmour, fi lm’s Dan Aykroyd and Hugh Dillon, to music’s Tragically Hip and Sarah Harmer. Star sightings happen often. Kingston was the windy port for Canada’s 1976 Sailing Olympics, the massive tall ship event of 1984 and remains the site for the Canadian Olympic Sailing Regatta, home ice to Canada’s fi rst hockey game and the historic home of Canada’s fi rst Prime Minister, Sir John A. Macdonald. Our City was built on history, well portrayed in a variety of active museums. Guests are

SUMMER 2011EventsFORT HENRY SUNSET CEREMONIESEvery Wednesday Night, July & August

KINGSTON 1000 ISLANDS CRUISESLunch, Dinner & Sightseeing1 - 3 hour cruises, May - October

FORT HENRY TATTOOThe Pipes are Calling! July 23

US MARINES JOINT CEREMONIALFort Henry - August 20 - 21

FORT FRIGHT - September 21 - October 29Amazing animatronics, live ghouls and hidden surprises.

Check our website for upcoming entertainment and cultural events at;www.visitkingston.ca

FH_grapevine_11.indd 1-2 11-03-31 4:19 PM

amazed at bygone discipline rituals displayed at the Penitentiary Museum or learn about the underwater graveyard of over 100 vessels that sailed to this port at the Marine Museum of the Great Lakes. You can scuba dive on these ancient relics – some in Deadman’s Bay. There are 22 museums and many art galleries commemorating creative talent, history, geology, communications, archaeology and military history. We even have a Rembrandt! And guarding the entire city from the highest point of land is Eastern Ontario’s largest heritage tourism attraction, Fort Henry National Historic

Site of Canada. Daily interpretive programs educate, engage, enrich and entertain guests including the daily Garrison Pay Parade, Artillery demonstrations and fi ring plus a fun Children’s Military Muster Parade presented 3 times daily throughout the main season. Enjoy a rich, historic dining experience with service by Soldier Servants before you see the World Heritage Sunset Ceremonies, presented Wednesday evenings at 7:30 PM in July and August. This year, the U.S. Marines bring their Silent Drill Platoon and Commandant’s Own Drum and Bugle Corps to the site in August. There are many other exciting interpretive and

music events all summer long not to be missed.Drift through the world famous 1000 Islands from Kingston’s downtown dock on the glass-domed Island Star, offering lunch and dinner cruises with live entertainment and multi-lingual commentary or take shorter cruises on the Island Queen or Island Belle, both Mississippi-style paddle wheelers. Get up close up to view of the new Wolfe Island eco-friendly wind farm, sporting 86 giant turbines. Charter a sailboat just a few blocks down the road and sail silently across Lake Ontario and the St. Lawrence River for lunch or dinner on Wolfe

Island. Or bring your bike across the free ferry and leisurely peddle the entire island with a stop at Big Sandy Bay for a dip.Kingston offers hundreds of locally owner-operated boutiques and restaurants. Live music fl ows from Confederation Park, bordered by historic City Hall and Lake Ontario, a great place to while away the hours as you enjoy an ice cream or a barbecued bite. Summer is alive with the Busker’s Rendezvous, Blues Fest, Arts and Craft Shows, Poker Run Cigarette Boat event or Chile Fest. Kingston’s downtown KROCK Center has presented such world acts as Bryan Adams, The Tragically Hip, Neil Young, k.d. lang, Elton John,

Alan Jackson, Jerry Seinfeld, Leonard Cohen, Anne Murray, Willie Nelson, Gordon Lightfoot, Diana Krall, Bob Dylan and more, offers quality Junior A Hockey and entertainment year round. This season, while enjoying ‘The County’, plan an extra night stay in Kingston to experience metro culture in one of Canada’s oldest, smaller cities. Book your stay today at visitkingston.ca. or call 1.888.855.4555 to get the goods!

This summer, be sure to plan an escape to beautiful, historic and very tasty Prince Edward County. Everything you’ve heard or read about this rural oasis is absolutely true - and it keep’s getting better year after year. Professional vintners, restaurant owners and Innkeepers, all masters of their respective crafts, converge to create tasteful vintages, creative cuisine with locally grown ingredients and well appointed retreats to rest your heads at night. Browse through many funky boutiques and arts and craft galleries on your journey, or spend a sun and sand-drenched day at Sandbanks Park. But since you’re so very close, why not add

some additional fun and fl avour to your most excellent County adventure by scooting east along scenic Highway 33 or down the 401 to historic Kingston – Canada’s First Capital.Kingston has the distinction of being Ontario’s only World Heritage Destination – home to Fort Henry National Historic Site of Canada, the Rideau Canal and the Kingston Fortifi cations, designated by UNESCO in 2007. Originally built as a historic navy port, strategically located at the convergence of the mighty St. Lawrence River, Lake Ontario and the Rideau Canal, Kingston is home to many interesting museums, natural woods and waterfront walking trails,

critically acclaimed festivals and events and .Kingston boasts home to an eclectic collection of Canadian heroes – from hockey’s Don Cherry and Doug Gilmour, fi lm’s Dan Aykroyd and Hugh Dillon, to music’s Tragically Hip and Sarah Harmer. Star sightings happen often. Kingston was the windy port for Canada’s 1976 Sailing Olympics, the massive tall ship event of 1984 and remains the site for the Canadian Olympic Sailing Regatta, home ice to Canada’s fi rst hockey game and the historic home of Canada’s fi rst Prime Minister, Sir John A. Macdonald. Our City was built on history, well portrayed in a variety of active museums. Guests are

SUMMER 2011EventsFORT HENRY SUNSET CEREMONIESEvery Wednesday Night, July & August

KINGSTON 1000 ISLANDS CRUISESLunch, Dinner & Sightseeing1 - 3 hour cruises, May - October

FORT HENRY TATTOOThe Pipes are Calling! July 23

US MARINES JOINT CEREMONIALFort Henry - August 20 - 21

FORT FRIGHT - September 21 - October 29Amazing animatronics, live ghouls and hidden surprises.

Check our website for upcoming entertainment and cultural events at;www.visitkingston.ca

FH_grapevine_11.indd 1-2 11-03-31 4:19 PM


CONTRIBUTORSOur Writers

Contributors

Our PhotographersSTEVEN ELPHICKSteven Elphick is an award-winning photographer. He won Applied Arts awards in 2007 and 2008, and has been judging wine professionally since 1988. He resides in Toronto with his wife, Paula, and a Cavalier spaniel named Charlie.

www.stevenelphick.com

JIM NORTONJim has made his passion for photography his work and today specializes in product, food and still life

photography. His photography has won him several Graphis awards and can be found in several national publications

including Canadian Living, Cottage Life, Homemakers and Wedding Bells.

www.jimnortonphoto.com

SHELLEY WILDGENShelley Wildgen is a freelance writer/announcer. With her kids raised and on their way, Shelley shares her ancient but

renovated County schoolhouse rather harmoniously with her husband, Rob, three cats and three dogs. Shelley spent many years as a radio copywriter and has just recently branched out

to magazines.

The Waring House & The Regent Theatrepresent

IAN TYSONIAN TYSON

TheWaring House

Thursday, August 25, 2011The Regent Theatre – Picton

The Waring House & The Regent Theatrepresent

613.476. 8416 Ext28 www.TheRegentTheatre.org

Tuesday to Saturday 9:30am – 5:00 pm and Sunday noon-4:00 pm

2823 County Road 40 Downtown Wooler 8km North of 401 (Wooler Road Exit)

1-877-480-7434www.thebirdhouse.ca

! e Campbell’sCountry Farm

Market1633 Rednersville Rd. County Rd. #3

613-962-3751www.campbellsorchards.com


30 CHERRIES Divine cherry recipes for summer by Jennifer McLagan

44 FARM TO TABLE ORIGINALS Ontario philosophies of original farm-to-table cuisine with chefs Stephen Treadwell and Andreas Feller by Jocelyn Roberts

52 FEATURE PROFILE Up and coming music artist Ariana Gillis by Nicole Bergot

56 THE SHAW FESTIVAL TURNS 50! Celebrating the golden anniversary of Ontario’s most famous festival theatres by Barry K. Grant

65 NICE DAY FOR A WINE WEDDING My Winery Wedding by Michael Pinkus

71 WHAT IT REALLY TAKES TO OPERATE

A SUCCESSFUL WINERY IN ONTARIO by John Szabo

FeaturesFEATURES

30

56ON THE COVERPHOTOGRAPHY JIM NORTON

Ontario Wine Country’s Ultimate Lifestyle Magazine

SUMMER 2011

GrapevineD I G I T A L E D I T I O NW!nery W"#ings HOT CANADIAN ARTIST

Ariana Gillis

CHERRIESDIGITALEDITION

VISIT US ONLINE AND NOW ON THE IPAD!

Each icon indicates additional material

on the web or on the iPad.

grapevinemagazine.ca

Contributors

GV MORE QUESTIONS ONLINE!

GV MORE WEDDING PHOTOS ONLINE!

Grapevine

grapevine

magazine

.ca

W!nery W"# ings

NEW CANADIAN ARTIST

Ariana GillisCherries! GV

*Plus HST. Based on double occupancy. Available at participating hotels. Rates subject to change. °Upgrade to Tailgate Party

available with overnight stay. † Plus HST.

June 18-26, 2011

NiagaraNew Vintage

festival

From festivals to fresh local fare, shopping and more,

St. Catharines has it all at your doorstep! There’s something

happening for all ages. Check out the full list of events

in your City Guide.

Rediscover St. Cathar es!

Love Niagara

Contact us for a FREE City Guide

at [email protected], or call 905-688-5601 ext. 1731

niagarawinefestival.com

Discovery Pass 2

011

June 18-26

Even

t pho

tos

cour

tesy

of B

arb

Tata

rnac

For Festival information and to order passes, call

905-688-0212 or visit niagarawinefestival.com

Discovery Pass 2011June 18, 19, 25 & 26

Enjoy six VQA wine and culinary pairings throughout the two

weekends of the Festival.

TD Tailgate Party 2011Saturday, June 18

Join the Grower of the Year in her vineyard and celebrate with over

35 Niagara wineries as they uncork their seasonal best.

Raise a glass and celebrate Wine Festivals in Niagara.Festival weekends in June and September include 2 Discovery Passes offering

6 unique wine route experiences. Call now for dates and availability.

from $149*

Invite friends and family to celebrate wine country in your own backyard!

For information on hotel packages please call 1-888-558-8820 or visitstcatharines.ca

UPGRADE TO

$70 PER PERSON°

FOR AN ADDITIONAL

TAILGATE PARTY TICKETS - JUNE 18

Plus HST

†

†

3 PUBLISHER’S NOTE

16 AMUSE BOUCHE Dinner Party Wars by Shelley Wildgen

CALENDAR OF EVENTS A list of seasonal art, culture, food and wine events

20 FAVOURITE THINGS A few of Grapevine Magazine’s favourite things

JOIN THE CLUB Join the Italian Club by Angela Aiello

24 BEST IN GLASS Our choices in glassware for the season

28 ANNA’S KITCHEN Anna Olson’s seasonal recipe

38 A PLEASANT PAIR White Wine Soup paired with regional wines.

41 NAT DECANTS Choosing Bubbly for your Wedding by Natalie MacLean

49 THE ART OF LIVING Wine, herbs and art

80 TASTING NOTES Regional Wine Reviews

88 PERSPECTIVES News, views, and reviews by David Lawrason

94 WHERE TO STAY, WHERE TO EAT Regional restaurant and accommodation listings 96 DID YOU KNOW? Fun facts about wine

DepartmentsDEPARTMENTS

28

20

ONLY ONLINE!

GV MORE ONLINE!

GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER | 2011 15Love Niagara

ARTY

EXCLUSIVE TO DIGITAL & ONLINE!

GVGV

DIGITALEDITION

GV

DEPARTMENT NAME


AMUSE BOUCHE

Dinner PartyWARS

ARTICLE AVAILABLE

EXCLUSIVELY IN OUR PRINT

AND iPAD

EDITION. Pick up a copy on newsstands across Canada,

including:

Shopper’s Drugmart, Chapters,

Indigo, Loblaws, and more!

iPad edition available on iTunes.


AMUSE BOUCHE

PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY

September 16-24, 2011The Church of St. Mary Magdalene

and two other beautiful County venues

ONTARIO ARTS COUNCILCONSEIL DES ARTS DE L’ONTARIO

Stéphane LemelinArtistic director and pianistAna SokolovicComposer-in-residence

For Tickets: www.countytix.ca613-471-1991 or toll free 1-866-584-1991www.pecmusicfestival.com

MUSIC FESTIVAL



DEPARTMENT NAME


FAVOURITE THINGS

Favourite Things

MADE TO MEASURE

-loured palette. Measuring bowls have a footed base and spoons feature a metal ring for easy separation and cleaning.

Available at Waring House Gourmet, 221 Main St., Picton, Ontario (613 476 8134).

Summer 2011 is all about colour in the kitchen! Greens so fresh you’ll want to squeeze them right off the page. Juicy fuchsias, splashes of blue ocean, and melon hues make

food prep fun and seasonal entertaining festive.


FAVOURITE THINGS

wood gas corn pellet electric

sales installation

free estimates

chimney sweeps

124 Main St. Picton(613) 476-9259

The County’s largest showroom

www.countyfireplace.ca

of fireplaces, stoves, & accessories

of your dreams...”

ProAlliance Realty, BrokerageINDEPENDENTLY OWNED AND OPERATED

Favourite Things

take a Seat WE’RE PERFORMING IN YOUR NEIGHBOURHOOD EVERYDAY


FAVOURITE THINGS

BUTTON UP Cut individual pieces of cheese with RSVP’s White Porcelain Cheese Buttons. Includes cow, sheep, and goat shapes. Bring the herd to your next wine and cheese tasting. Dishwasher safe.

Available at The Cheese Truckle, 4226 Drummond Road, ,

A patio favourite for both hot and cold beverages, the Sip Cup by Hues and Brews is part of their Sip 2 Go series and is available in an array of punchy colours. The double walls of this sip suavely cup are BPA-free high quality acrylic. A screw-on lid and straw base are fashioned with silicone rings to prevent spillage and maintain liquid temperatures.

Available at Susan’s Just Because, 280 Main St., Picton, Ontario (613 476 4128).

These stainless steel knives come dressed in a non-stick overcoat blade and protective sheath of refreshingly lively hues. The ergonomic soft touch handle maximizes grip.

Available at Rustic Routes, 20 Mill St., Stirling, Ontario (613 395 2929).


FAVOURITE THINGS

LETTUCE BEGIN using a lettuce knife. This option

comfortable handle.

Pro Garden Centre, St. Catharines,

Ontario, 905 -346-0958.

Daisy cookware and serving pieces collection comes alive with its fun

pretty porcelain is freezer, oven, dishwasher, and microwave safe.

Available at Gilbert & Lighthall Marketplace, 173 Main St., Picton, Ontario (613 476 3131).


BEST IN Gla!

STANDS OUT An ethereal beauty, Swarovski’s two-tiered crystalline cake stand displays petit fours, dessert fruits and confections with sophistication. Six hundred crystals congregate in the central column that supports two glass plates and a show-stopping fully-cut crystal top.

Available at Swarovski, Pen Centre, 221 Glendale Avenue, St. Catharines, 905- 687-6622 or online at www.swarovski.com.

Coloured, crystal or printed, this is the Best in Glass for summer dining and décor.


BEST IN GLASS

STAINED GLASS Collection, these tinted glass jug-style vases catch the eye and hold your garden posies. Each stands approximately ten inches.

JAMES REIDFine Furniture Since 1854

252-256 Princess St. Downtown Kingston 613.548.3022

1880 John Counter Blvd. Kingston

613.544.4415

DURHAM Handcrafted solid wood furniture since 1899.

Weekly Deliveries to Prince Edward County.

Canada’s leader in solid wood furnishings.

Factory

Authorized

Sale

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Cherries! STORY BY JENNIFER MCLAGAN


GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER | 2011 31

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Cherry Clafoutis

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METHODIn a medium saucepan, over medium heat, add wine, cinnamon sticks, lemon zest and cloves. Cover and heat until nearly boiling. Reduce heat to low. Cover and simmer for 15 minutes.

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Farm to Table Originals

Do you remember a time when you discovered something—maybe a

even though you didn’t create it, you were the savvy trend-spotter who -

thing popular and you loved the idea way before anyone else cared about it. And you were passionate, and it was really good.


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Chardonnay VQA Collection

The farm-to-table concept is as old as the first hunter-gatherers so, obviously, Chef Stephen Treadwell did not invent the idea, but his devotion to it, long before it gained popular recognition in

him a visionary.

The trend in these parts over sev-eral decades has been to import food from whatever corners of the world supply it, for the least amount of money. Chefs now are going back to basics, buying farm-fresh fare from local growers, and their reasons for eschewing the food terminals (the one in Toronto is the size of a small country) vary. Most do it for the environmental, communal, and nutritional ben-

some are doing it better than oth-ers. Remember, restaurants are businesses and a trend is a trend.

deal. Some are on the slow food bandwagon, paying lip service to a growing movement, touting farm-to-table tenets for market-ing purposes without the passion and authenticity needed to keep people coming back. His message is impassioned because he cares, and while his colleagues in the industry may bristle at his outspo-ken delivery, they cannot dispute that the man walks the walk.

Treadwell’s is an immigrant’s story. He arrived here in the 1980s from England with a couple of suitcases and a youthful sense of adventure. After training in England, as well as in Switzerland and Sweden, he landed in Toronto where he worked his way to what became a lengthy stint as Chef de Cuisine at Auberge

can read about what followed on his website: an impressive stack of credentials earned at the likes of

The Queen’s Landing Inn, where he established the Tiara Dining Room as “one of the top hotel dining rooms in Canada.” Long story short, he established himself in Niagara-on-the-Lake, teamed up with Si Wai Lai, Niagara’s “hotelier of historic proportions,” built some strong working relationships with top local suppliers and now he is

to Table Cuisine in Port Dalhousie. With his son, James, one of Cana-da’s top sommeliers, by his side, he opened Treadwell’s in 2006 in the old Albert’s Restaurant building to rave reviews.

With simple, well executed, European-inspired local cuisine, Treadwell’s expectations of him-self—and therefore others—are high: “I’m a small guy who was told from the beginning that I couldn’t make a go of this, but hard work works. I keep it simple, no BS.” His peak-season staff of 36 dwindles in the off-season to 15. He describes himself as “doing okay” in an indus-try where few get rich unless they

is broader than their bottom line. Treadwell sees success as support-ing the local growers who bring the produce right to his back door. If all he can get is root vegetables in January, then his mission is to make the best of those root vegetables, and this culinary alchemy is what keeps his clientele coming back. Word-of-mouth has given him a

than half of his patrons making the trek from the GTA.

What makes Treadwell’s click even in the off season when most of the regional restaurants snuff their

it is authenticity, hard work, and a steadfast mutual commitment between him and local growers


and suppliers. He is outspoken about his peers in the industry, but it is easy to see through his frustra-tion. He is a passionate man who knows what needs to be done for the sake of all the players, from grower to consumer and full circle to the planet we call home. He

-ity to provide consistent quality, to entice the customers to take culinary risks and expand their sen-sibilities beyond what he sees as low expectations among restau-rant clientele in Canada. While popular chain restaurants have their highlights, it is important for diners to know there is more out there. Treadwell believes the con-sumer will tolerate slightly higher prices if we know what it takes to produce, prepare, and serve food that is, quite frankly, better, fresher, and more sustainable than what we think is good because it is all we know.

Sommelier son James describes Treadwell as “old school”, an artist with a visionary focus that extends beyond his own personal success to the industry at large. Local food prices are coming down and people are reverting back to the traditional principals of eating – that local ingredients are more than just a passing trend. It is being seen as a far-reaching solution to myriad environmental and eco-nomic concerns, a solution that is healthier for all of us and a much better culinary experience at the same time.

Meanwhile, in Prince Edward County, another chef is quietly making a name for himself as a farm-to-table pioneer. Andreas

Bistro in Picton, relies on fresh local ingredients to help him create a restaurant that is a feast for all


Let us amaze you!

-ton’s few outdoor patios as well as sprawling romantic garden tended by the chef himself, Blu-men doesn’t wait for summertime to make a lasting impression.

as a young man in a bold bid to avoid conscription, but not before completing a gruelling apprentice-ship at the prestigious Landgasthof Adler hotel and restaurant under Chef Alex Zuger. He describes Zuger as both brilliant and loath-some, despised by his apprentices for his overwhelming expectations.

mentor’s merciless work ethic with much of his own success, lament-ing only the lack of such rigorous training for young chefs today.

the world via Venezuela, where he spent 10 years following his depar-ture from Switzerland in 1991. He arrived in Ottawa in 2001 after a friend of a friend tipped him off about a job at The Mill, which has since closed. This led to a sous chef position at Restaurant 18 in Ottawa’s Byward Market, where he waited out his immigration

to Café Paradiso on Bank Street until 2006, when he and part-ner Melissa decided to start up

instincts were to settle on the east coast, but instead they found what so many other chefs and artisans know as the perfect fit: all the beauty and potential of a coastal lifestyle with the community neces-sary for success in the restaurant business. They found The County.

property in the early spring of 2007 and began extensive renovations, mostly with their own hands.


INTRODUCING THE 2011 CADILLAC CTS COUPE

“Your Only True Luxury Brand in the Area”

1 km north of the 401

613-968-6767

They opened a year later and from day one, both the local and tour-ist communities have embraced them with gusto. When asked what keeps them coming back, he credits “honest food for hon-est value,” cooked in-house with a staff that goes out of its way to accommodate people. “Every-one gets what they like. We are never skimpy.” Modern home-style cooking with a strong foundation

Mediterranean in summer months, and heartily old-style, but far from common, come winter.

Adapting from a European eating style to a western one has been a

the main meal was midday and everyone came home to enjoy it, so we took our time. Here in Can-ada, people eat either at work or expect quick service on the run.” He’s had to adapt his labourious cooking style to quicker service at lunchtime, especially in winter. That’s why he loves the summer: he gets to slow down for visitors able to unwind and enjoy the experi-ence as well as the food.

strong bonds with local suppliers and growers, and he credits them with making his job easier, since

high-quality produce, meats and cheeses.

What you will experience at both of these special Ontario restau-rants is a family business with a vested interest in the kind of pros-perity that radiates outward from

the wealth and accomplishment of the community at large. Con-sistency, quality, and passion in co-operation with Mother Nature

where it all began. GV


THE ART OF LIVING

The Art of Herbs and Wine (with excerpts from The Art of Herbs, soon to be released)

Tand writers. When it comes to food and wine, that same prestige can be ap-

that binds the continuum of creativity is in the hands and soul of the artist. In the kitchen, art studio or wine cave, the creator’s masterpiece is born from a place of passion and the joy of the journey.

In Prince Edward County, the creative economy encompasses this whole spectrum. In many areas we collaborate and mix media to create something greater than the sum

feature functional household art pieces, food, wine and art overlap in a myriad of ways.


THE ART OF LIVING

One such project, to be launched this summer at Mad Dog Gallery in Prince Edward County, is a col-laboration between Susan Wallis of Melt Studios and Cynthia Peters

an “art cookbook.” Titled The Art of Herbs, it’s a journal of recipes and encaustic paintings that will show-case both the visual and culinary

local food and wine artists will also share their thoughts on the subject,

-ducer Vicki Emlaw of Vicki’s Veggies to wine maker James Lahti of Long Dog Vineyard and Winery.

Beyond our vision, our palate also -

cially when one analyses the layers

particular ingredient. Herbs, fresh or dry, have gained popularity over the last few years with the rise of the local food movement. If you don’t have a green thumb, they’re the easiest of all crops to grow, no mat-

perspective, they also give you that

reduce salt in your diet. And as a bonus, many herbs have medicinal properties as well.

that binds cuisines around the world -

Moroccan tagines, the pairing of

balance and make the most of any dish.

The artist’s palette is blessed with a wide spectrum of fresh herbs to choose from. Parsley, basil and chives, the “foundation herbs” as I like to call them, can be incorporat-ed into nearly every dish. Their ver-satility in pairing with wine and other

have long embraced this practice

tarragon, chervil, chives and pars--

egars to sauces, this classic combo is essential to many of their dishes.

Other herbs that stand strong on their own are rosemary and corian-der (also known as cilantro). People either love them or hate them. . If you just wash and chop coriander on a board, its scent will engulf the room. A little can add a lot. I love this herb and all its parts in cook-

the root and seeds, this robust herb works wonders in many Asian and Mediterranean dishes.

While many fresh herbs are best added at the end of the cooking

several can stand up and make a -

ing. Tarragon, for instance, while

withstand heat for short periods. Pairing of herbs with particular foods is as key as pairing with wine. By adding herbs into the pairing equa-tion, we create a more layered and

meal. Building from the wine side instead of the food is a novel way

equal pleasure in preparing a meal from both the wine and food per-spectives, it’s a creative approach to preparing the best tasting experi-ence for your guests.

The general guidelines for pairing

that are poached or steamed,

bodied whites and medium reds, stir fried, sautéed, baked or lightly roasted or grilled dishes (chicken, pork and lamb) work best. And for full-bodied reds, go with braised, deep roasted or grilled heavier meats (beef or lamb). Some herbs work with a number of wines, while others tend to marry well with just one or two categories. GV

T H E B L O O M F I E L D

CARRIAGE HOUSER E S T A U R A N T

C A S U A L L U N C H

F I N E D I N I N G D I N N E R

T A K E A W A Y B A K E R Y

6 1 3 . 3 9 3 . 1 0 8 7

S E A S O N A L H O U R S2 6 0 M A I N S T R E E TBLOOMFIELD ~ ONTARIOwww.bloomfieldcarriagehouse.com

613.471.2032www.roomwithaview.on.ca

Interiors for LivingInteriors

for Livingdesign & color consultation • custom draper-ies & blinds • bedding • accessories • lighting

• furnishings & upholstery fabric


THE ART OF LIVING

White Wines Red WinesLight Full body Medium Full Body

Sauvignon Blanc

Pinot Gris, Riesling

Unoaked Chard

Gewürztraminer

Sparkling Wine

Oaked Chard Pinot Noir

Merlot

Rose

Baco Noir

Cab Franc

Cab Sav

Malbec

Tarragon, Cilantro

Chervil, Dill, Chives

Thyme, Basil, Lovage

Parsley, Lemon Balm

Chives

Parsley, Sage, Thyme

Basil, Oregano

Rosemary, Sage

Thyme

Fish/seafood

Chicken

Fish/seafood

Chicken/fowl

Veal

Pork, Chicken

Lamb, Veal

Beef

Lamb

PreparationPoached

Steamed

Light sauté

(Light sauces)

Preparation:Sauté, Baked

Lightly grilled

Lightly roasted

(Tomato or heavier sauces)

Preparation:Baked, Roasted

Grilled

(Tomato or heavier sauces)

Preparation:Braised

Deep Roast

Ariana Gillis


PROFILE

Ariana Gillis

Picture this heart-wrenching scenario: Boy meets girl. No sooner do they fall madly in

love, than he has to leave her to

news that he’s dead — he’s been killed in action. But she doesn’t believe it, and waits for him to

her she’s crazy. Her family tells her to move on. But she doesn’t give up, and waits for her love to come back.

Sure enough, four years after he was sent to war, he shows up on her doorstep. This story of tragedy and triumph, love lost and found, is the stuff of novels and screen-

it into a four minute folk song called Simon Brooke. “I like songs that tell

a novel into a three-minute song, a beautiful story with a beginning,

a name for herself as much for her yarn spinning as for her sweet voice, unique style and catchy

To Make It Make Sense, is full of stories. Another song on the album, High-way, is a folksy song about a young man from Port Colborne, Tyler Crooks, who died while on duty in Afghanistan. Gillis happened to

Heroes when the hearse carrying Crooks’ body drove by. “The whole experience was moving,” she remembers. “Every single bridge from the airport to Cobourg was

She didn’t know Crooks, but went home and wrote the song. “I didn’t have much information on him,” she says, “but he was a young man

died over there for a cause I don’t believe in.”

She lists Bob Dylan and Patty Grif-

them she infuses politics into many of her songs. “I’m not out protest-ing the war,” she says. “I’m writing

music about it. I’m about making people question things, and think for themselves.” Those are strong words for a young woman all of 20 years who still lives at home a half an hour from Niagara with her par-ents and two sisters. Her lack of real life experience doesn’t keep her

from writing songs about deeply held convictions, though. “I’ve always been a deep thinker,” she says.

Maybe it’s the fresh country air, or the time she spends alone that gives her the space to think about life and form her opinions. She’s

“I’m not out protesting the war. I’m writing music about it. I’m about making people question things, and think for themselves.”

Summer

613-969-1677

Serving a mouth-watering selection of gourmet coffees, teas, soups, sandwiches, ice cream, and our very own handmade Belgian chocolates, a family tradition since 1983.

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Located steps away from the Cobourg Beach and Marina at:201 Division St.T 905.377.9917Eat in or take out.Large patio

W W W. G R E AT C H O C O L AT E . C O M


PROFILE

unaffected by the more frivolous topics that occupy the brains of many 20-year-old women. “I don’t really care about social gath-erings,” she says. “I care about family and friends, but I’d rather be alone, and standing for what I believe in.” Her style speaks to her sense of individuality: spiky hair

of pink and blonde, and vintage gowns with sneakers make for a unique look. Gillis had a severe pneumonia for three months at 17, and wondered at the time if she’d get through it. “I’d wake up in the middle of the night and I couldn’t breathe,” she recalls. “That was

the turning point for me. Music became more important to me, and I knew that was how I wanted to change people and change the world.”

Politics aside, it’s the catchy way her music blends pop and folk that is getting Gillis recognition. Last

Awards, and nabbed the Album of

at the 2010 Niagara Music Awards. When she explains her music, she says, “it’s like new age folk, folk with an edge. It’s fun, and it’s a good time.” She records her music

Download the Grapevine Magazine iPadapp from iTunes and listen to Ariana’s Simon Brooke. If you don’t havean iPad, listen online at grapevinemagazine.ca.

PRESENTED BY

SUPPORTED BY MAJOR LOCAL SPONSORS

THURSDAY, AUGUST 18 Peter Appleyard, a salute to Benny Goodman

FRIDAY, AUGUST 19 Ranee Lee & Guido Basso

SATURDAY, AUGUST 20 The Mike Murley Septet

SUNDAY, AUGUST 21 The Brian Barlow Big Band,

a tribute to the Count and the Duke

8:00 pm, Regent Theatre in PictonTickets, $38/night • Regent Theatre box office

613.476.8416 ext 28 or 1.877.411.4761www.pecjazz.org


PROFILE

in her parents’ home studio, and her dad plays guitar in the band. When asked how often the band practices, she says, “it’s when-ever we feel like it. We pull out our guitars and start playing.” The momentum seems to be growing, and she might be at the precipice of something big. But for now, Gil-lis isn’t worried about where her career is going, just as long as she can keep playing music. “I haven’t

she says. “I don’t really care. I play music because it makes me feel good, and that’s what the audi-ence likes. They like to feel good with me. We’re working off of each other and it’s a great thing.” GV

Available for your iPhone, Blackberry and Android device.

Natalie MacLean’sWine picks & pairing

MOBILE APP

And more...

www.nataliemaclean.com/mobile

See What Everyone is Talking About...

Available for your iPhone, Blackberry and Android device.


Shaw Festival Celebrates it’s Golden Anniversary

Ensemble, My Fair Lady. Photo: Emily Cooper

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WWW.WINERIESOFNIAGARAONTHELAKE.COM

This is a close-knit community of wineries with individual personalities, as distinctive

as the wines they create. You’ll see this when you step up to our doors. And you’ll taste it in our wines.

This is the birthplace of Ontario’s modern wine industry, and behind the doors of

wineries large and small, you’ll fi nd friendly staff, stylish and relaxed tasting rooms and

a wide range of wines to sample.

Plan your getaway to Niagara-on-the-Lake wine country today!

Find us on Facebook or follow us on Twitter!

Visit our website for year round events, touring itineraries and more.Join our mailing list to receive news and updates from wine country!

Twenty-six distinctive wineries.

One unforgettable place.

project manager Chris Alderson

designer Lynn Maceira

date sent May 5, 2011

client WIneries of Niagara-on-the-Lake

client contact Chris Alderson

docket 5887

project/fi le name WNOTL_COUNTYGrapeVine adƒ

AD SPECIFICATIONS WHERE APPLICABLE

publication COUNTY Grapevine publication

ad size/col (7 x 4.25) CMYK

project/fi le name WNOTL_COUNTY Grape Vine

due date(s) May 5, 2011


Welcome to our backyardScheduled wine tastings on Saturday at 11am, 1pm and 3pm

Vineyard tours on Saturday at 12pm & 2pm and Sunday at 2pmVineyard Bistro by Treadwell’s open 11:30 to 5pm

bring this ad in to receive a complimentary wine tasting, value $10

581 Niagara Stone Road, Niagara-on-the-Lake, On 1-888-581-1581 www.southbrook.com

bring this ad in for a complementary $10 tasting

For a Class Calendar and to check space availability, visit www.winecountrycooking.com

Corporate classes and Gift Certifi cates also available.

Wine Country Cooking School Inc. 1339 Lakeshore Rd., Niagara-on-the-Lake, ON L0S 1J0tel. 905.468.8304 [email protected]

Culinary Vacations

& Cooking Classes

in the Heart of Wine Country

The Wine Country Cooking School at Strewn winery in Niagara-on-the-Lake is a unique culinary experience for recreational cooks. Hands-on cooking classes from January through November to tempt your palate and explore the relationship between food & wine.


205 Dundas St. E. Suite 302, Belleville, ON K8N 5K6

t. 613-966-3929 f. 613-966-3592

Independent planning

BEGINSwith independent thinking.


Discover...Bungalow

Open Thursday – Monday11-4 pm or by appointment.

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613 965-0893

422 Partridge Hollow RoadRR3 - Consecon, On

Canada’s “Off-Grid”Winery Pioneers

Solar Powered, Organic practicesin the vineyard and the winery

76 Station Rd, Hillier613-661-3361

www.stannersvineyard.caOpen Daily 11-6 May - December

Open Weekends 11-6 January - April

76 Station Rd, Hillier613-661-3361

www.stannersvineyard.caOpen Daily 11-6 May - December

Open Weekends 11-6 January - April


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GV

1096 Lakeshore Rd. Niagara-on-the-Lake, On. 905 935 2866 - www.konzelmann.ca

Generations Wine Club

Sign up nowto receive your Welcome Package!

Discounts on all winery events and wine accessories2 Bottles of Wine per month delivered to your door

Complimentary tours and wine seminars... and more. Details on our websitegenerationswineclub

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Niagara’s Exclusive Lakefront Winery

KONZELMANN ESTATE WINERY

1096 Lakeshore Rd. Niagara on the Lake

Ph: 905 935 2866 - www.konzelmann.ca

Weddings • Corporate Events • Daily Tastings • Open 7 days a week905-684-3300 or [email protected] On-line wedding packages www.hernder.com

ST. CATHARINES / NIAGARA


Nice Day for a Wine Wedding

BY MICHAEL PINKUS

“....Grapes only grow in special microclimates, so you can only have winery weddings in certain places around the world.” — Justine Lakeit, Caroline Cellars Winery


My Winery Wedding Story...

I t’s just the season. The sun is shining, the weather is warm, the birds and bees are mating (as well as every other living creature), so why shouldn’t a

man and a woman be getting in

always comes up when a couple is ready to take the plunge is:

who spends all his time around fer-mented liquids - my decision as to where to get married was made by my wife (I guess my wine-soaked brain wasn’t thinking clearly). In truth, I never did want a traditional wedding, but I never thought of getting married at a winery. Now it seems like a complete no-brainer to me

My wife and I lived the dream just this past summer, at Château des Charmes in Niagara-on-the-Lake.

I can remember it like it was yes-terday.

The wind was blowing the day before. It rained like the Dickens overnight, and the next morning didn’t seem to hold a lot of prom-ise (weather-wise). But all that was forgotten -- or at least temporar-ily alleviated -- because I was getting married in wine country, surrounded by good friends, lov-ing family and acres and acres of grapevines in the throes of har-

Well, truth be told, by the time the

(plain, no chaser) and a soft bed,

day itself.

be and I woke up in the same bed on our wedding day, each trying

to ready him/her-self for the day that lay ahead. I know they tell you not to see your bride before the blessed event on the big day, but we’re both in our 40s and immune to such superstitions. Or

hours of singledom that we would

not sure what it was about, but I’m sure she was being a witch with a capital B. [Wife’s note: I was not. He was being the turd of

both on edge about what the day would bring. It’s not that we weren’t ready to get married. Au contraire, mon frere. It just seemed we hadn’t done enough in the preparation stage. Would every-

those “nothing we can do about it now” people (in this case anyway), while I’m a tinkerer, always thinking there’s a way to make it better.

GV See more of Michael’s wedding photos online! grapevinemagazine.ca


We chose to have our wedding Château des Charmes in Niagara. We got engaged over a bottle of their 2005 Sparkling Rosé at four in the morning after a late night drive to St. Catharines, so it only seemed

place where we said our I dos.

After my bride-to-be left the house, -

ers, pack bag for our overnight stay. But there was also a honey-do list of things to be delivered to the Château, the hotel and other places of importance: the car with our bags and boxes of favours, guest lists, table charts, tent cards, tablecloths and various other last-minute additions for the reception

and party. I had even fashioned our envelope box out of a wooden Clos Apalta wine crate. I was right-fully impressed with my handiwork. My wife shrugged and said, “If it makes you happy and it works.”

I drove on pins and needles to the

venue. I met with the coordinator for what seemed to be the hun-dredth time in the past six months. She still smiled when she saw me, so

“but we’re ready for you.” She got someone to help unload the car, found easily accessible places for everything and told staff what everything was for. As I stood

there dumbfounded, watching her -

bial deer caught in the headlights.

She smiled again. “This is not our -

ing tone. “Go do what you have to do and it’ll be perfect by the time

-teau had hosted two weddings on this weekend alone, so they were well practised by the time they got to mine. I got back in my car, checked my list and crossed off

was long, but I was one step closer to completing it. I checked the

“[People are drawn to the idea of a winery wedding] by the romantic notion of !ne vintage wines and picturesque vineyard views, by a completely unique outdoor wedding experience, unmatched anywhere...” -- Eadie Mastronardi, Mastronardi Estate Winery


time: Seven hours till “I do”, plenty of time. (Gulp.)

Next stop: the hotel. Plenty of research went into hotels in the area. I think we spent an entire day huddled around a computer screen. There are several hotels, B&Bs and Inns in Ontario wine

country. Nobody would go without a bed. Heck, worst case scenario, you sleep in your car or in some-one’s bathtub. There’s plenty of room for everybody.

I checked in, making short shrift of guests I bumped into along the way, hoping that I did not come off as rude. I didn’t want to acci-dentally bump into any part of the bridal side of the party, who were getting ready somewhere in the hotel. Done with that, I hightailed

of my errands and was back home with enough time to twiddle my

the next phase of the day began.

My best man arrived and we got ready together. His date even did some reluctant ironing in the liv-ing room. We dropped his stuff

(and his date) off at the hotel and cruised our way to the point of no return. The photographer and the rest of the groomsmen were wait-ing for us. The next few minutes were a blur. Everyone was milling about, yet there was an organized chaos to it all. I avoided eye con-tact with the upstairs where the women were getting ready. Their pictures now done, it was our turn. In the chaos I failed to say hello to my soon-to-be father-in-law and my own father, who were quietly

grangeofprinceedward.com

Come taste wine where it grows

“I opted for the rustic charm of a local barn with some excellent local touches... A wine country wedding is all about making your day personal and unique.”

– Kassandra Melnyk, Sandbanks Estate Winery


have to understand that these are

Our photographer took the men down to the barrel cellar where we had our pictures taken: beside barrels, between barrels, on top of barrels, near and with bottling machines. If something could be used as a prop, you bet we used it, like the six- year-old ring bearer. We even found a way to incorporate the sparkling wine bottler.

The day continued to be breezy but sunny and all the principals (aside from the bride and her ladies) were waiting outside in the tent the Château uses to cover its back veranda. The Château is a working winery until 6:00 p.m., which means guests who arrive early are shown to the back or can roam the store and the public places within the building. I hung out with the guys, the fathers, the DJ and the musician who was to play us down the aisle. I kept wor-rying that something was not going to go right, but the coordinator would appear every so often to tell me that “everything is going to be perfect.”

By 6:00 p.m., the officiant had yet to arrive, and panic set in. I tracked down the coordinator and found myself on the internet look-ing up the number. (Typically, I had left her number in my other pants.) Professionals are professionals, and --wouldn’t you know it --she pulled into the parking lot as I was mak-ing the call. I have never been so happy to see another person in my whole life -- until my wife walked down the aisle, but that’s a whole other story. No wait, that’s this story.

had a good half hour to spare, but when the nerves start to jangle, anything out of place, no matter

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how small, can seem major.

The ceremony came and went without a hitch. We walked down an aisle between two trees with the sun and the vineyard at our backs to the song “Marry Me” by Train (as sung by the most awesome guitarist who learned it just for us). We signed, sealed and delivered the marriage license. Rings were exchanged, vows were said and wham bam thank you ma’am, we were married in Ontario wine country. They say it is then that the fun begins (for the guest maybe), but for the wedding party, the pic-tures have just begun. We had but one hour to get the lighting right, so we found ourselves doing an out-side tour of the Château getting pictures on stairs, near railing, by

and of course, what’s a wedding in wine country without pictures in

September, the grapes were in full bunch. (In the spring, that would be full bloom.)

The rest of the night was a whirlwind of activity. The only complaint I received the next day was that the party had to come to an end. I even caught up with the coordi-nator at a rare moment near the end of the evening. She was sitting down and smiling. She looked sat-

very well. I am sure it did not go without any hitches, but the key is nobody saw them.

As we drove away from the Châ-teau, tired, yet wired and most

-tle thankfully forgotten, we thought about how special the day was, how stress-free we felt and how a wedding in wine country ties you to the place for a lifetime. GV

DEPARTMENT NAME


NAT DECANTS

71 GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SPRING | 2011

WHAT IT REALLY TAKES to operate a successful winery in Ontario

DAN SULLIVAN, ROSEHALL RUN,


NIAGARA, ONTARIO


Wanted: Winery owners/operators for Ontario, Canada.

This is your opportunity to get into one of the most glamorous busi-nesses in the world. Operating a winery will engage and challenge you on multiple levels. Each day is different. If you’re a Renaissance

be a farmer, biologist, chemist, mechanic, accountant, graphics designer, marketing strategist, retail store manager, human resources director, salesman, general fac-totum and occasionally, delivery boy, and many other things besides. Beyond the incredible diversity of your day-to-day duties, as an added bonus, you’ll be relocated to a beautiful part of the world in an idyllic rural setting, with a relatively benign climate and four distinct seasons. Part of your business will run according to the rhythms of the seasons, other parts to the vagaries of the market.

of some of the most interesting people in the world, all united by a love of wine and food. It’s the best job around.

Oh, and did we mention that there will be a small capital requirement

a lot of money, actually, and not

get a very long line of credit. Don’t expect to break even in your life-time, but your children will thank you. And I suppose you should know that a large part of your suc-cess will be utterly dependent on things that are beyond your control, like, for example, the weather.

It’s generally pretty cool in Ontario, relatively speaking, with less sun and more rain and a short grow-ing season, so it will cost you a little bit more -- maybe a lot more -- to

make your wine than, say, all of the southern hemisphere. We also have little details like minimum wage and health and safety regu-lations that will raise your costs. But that’s okay, since you can position your product as a “premium cool-climate” wine, which is all the rage these days. But then again, since the wine world is tradition-bound, with no small measure of elitism, you’ll have to overcome the lin-gering impression that Ontario is somehow inferior to most other wine regions in the world. And even if your wine is brilliant, people may not believe you.

Despite these minor challenges, there’s a growing number of win-ery owners who, with products broadly similar to yours, will be

shelf space. Since your winery will be in Ontario, you’ll be in one of the most tightly regulated retail alcohol environments in the world. In fact, there is only ONE retailer, and if they don’t want your wine, well, then you can only sell it out of your winery door, that is if anyone

to open a restaurant at your winery to attract people, but then again, that gets a little complicated, so

you wish, sell your wine directly to restaurants throughout the prov-ince, but since restaurant owners are very busy and have no spare cash, you’ll also have to deliver it to their door, a case or two at a time. Of course you can hire an agency to handle your sales and delivery, but that will cut into your already slim margins.

Aside from these small challenges, owning and operating a winery in Ontario is a dream job. If you’re still not sure, listen to these three own-ers who have blazed the trail for you. They’ve given an honest and

candid view of how and why they got started and how they navigate the turbid waters of the business side of the wine business. This is not about their wines, but each of them is considered a reference point in his respective region. All three focus on premium VQA wines (100% Ontario-grown), and tellingly, all three would do it again if given the chance.

Paul Speck runs the well-estab-lished Henry of Pelham winery in the Niagara Peninsula, one of the

planted vineyards on the Short Hills

was 1988. Today the Specks own 170 acres, purchase another 25-40 per cent of their grape needs and produce around 900,000 bottles under the Henry of Pelham, Speck

Sibling Rivalry and House Wine company (Speck Bros) labels. As a former chair of the Ontario Wine Council, Paul knows the business inside and out.

group of vintners in Prince Edward County, Ontario’s youngest wine-growing region, approved for VQA production in 2007. He estab-lished his winery, Rosehall Run, in 2001. Today he farms 23 acres and makes about 70,000 bottles of wine spread over a dozen types. His estate fruit is supplemented by nearly as much purchased fruit from growers in the County and in Niagara. Sullivan learned the craft as a successful amateur winemaker before he turned pro, and quickly established himself as one of the leading names in Prince Edward County.

small boutique Muscedere Vine-yards operation in the Lake Erie


SHORE (LENS), ONTARIO

North Shore viticultural area. Grape growing runs in the family’s blood, though the winery was only estab-lished in 2006. The Muscederes farm 13 acres and produce just 24,000 bottles a year, currently with 8-10 different types, though they expect volume to ramp up over the next few years.

Speck: Our father wanted to pre-serve the original 55 acres of land that had been in the family name since 1794. He purchased it and we planted vineyards. It then became a family project. We planted in

We have always focused on Niag-ara-grown grapes at the high end

of the market.

Sullivan: I was inspired by love of growing, making and enjoy-ing wine. I wanted to be part of a community that brings skill and passion to create an authentic high-quality wine culture.

Muscedere: Inspiration came at a young age when visiting our grandfather who has recently retired from farming commercial vineyards in the Lazio region of Italy. The lifestyle, the passion, the love we saw in the vineyard had an impact on us at a young age. We saw an opportunity after hear-ing that international awards were being won by local wineries.

-

Speck: Heritage. We pioneered growing vinifera grapes on this land and helped create the Short Hills Bench sub-appellation.

Sullivan: Although land cost was inexpensive relatively speaking, it was the limestone soil and sense of starting something new that ulti-mately determined our location. Our annual cost of production is higher than most areas because of the extra inputs for winter pro-tection and low yields, so it is an expensive place to grow wine.

Muscedere: We chose this area because it is in our own backyard and we see an up-and-coming region that will really turn heads


in the near future with the quality of wine. This region has the warm-est autumn temps in the country, a critical factor for harvest deci-

the warmest locations in Canada during the summer with above-average sun hours and lots of wind to reduce disease pressure.

-

Speck: When we started there was no VQA, no wine route, no VQA wine section in the LCBO, COVI, Niagara College, etc. We had to learn the whole business on our own and train people, as there were only a couple of other small premium wineries at the time, who were also learning the business. It’s much, much different today. There’s way more infrastructure and resources, a new generation of customers who only know great quality VQA wines.

Sullivan: A steep, continuous learning curve, challenged by the capital-intensive nature of the wine business.

Muscedere: The vineyard is the most important part of our opera-tion. Developing the blueprint to follow for Vineyard Strategy was the greatest challenge in the early stages. Everyone is ready to give you advice, but it’s hard to pick

an element may work well in one

A system includes soil, topography, climate, pruning strategy, tying strategy, etc.

-

-

Speck: The positive is that we’re close to a great market, Toronto/

renowned tourism attraction. The LCBO, if working well with the win-ery, can be a very good way to distribute wines throughout the province.

On the negative side, it’s high-tax region and an overly regulated, highly competitive market. Despite what you may hear, every foreign winery trips over itself to sell to the LCBO. There are subsidized wines from all over the world in our mar-ket. VQA does not have a big market share (10%) in our own home.

Sullivan: We’re challenged by market access issues and general consumer misconceptions on the quality of good Ontario wine.

Muscedere: The biggest advan-tage of being in Ontario is the growing market of wine consum-ers and especially those that are turning to homegrown wine prod-ucts like ours. A disadvantage at the moment is the lack of places where a small winery like us can sell our product.

Speck: It depends on many things.

Sullivan: This is an interesting ques-tion. Obviously we make what we grow first and foremost. Having said that, we have learned that you can make lots of wine but it doesn’t mean it will be purchased. So in that sense, our labels will be market-driven moving forward. Our overriding philosophy is that we are a quality-driven winery so we seek to have long-term quality-focused

relationships with our growers.

Muscedere: We are a small win-ery. We have only one label at the moment with eight wines under that label. Our thought process has been to keep one premium brand that looks the same to cre-ate brand recognition and loyalty. When the market warrants it, we will determine if a more premium brand or less premium brand should be created and what mar-ket it would be for.

Speck: We position ourselves as a mid-sized, family-owned estate winery, VQA only, with premium quality and price points.

Sullivan: We are a 100 per cent VQA winery and have three tiers of production: single vineyard/estate wine, DVA (designated viti-cultural area) grown wines from estate and purchased, and DVA PEC fruit and 100 per cent Ontario

vineyards from regions in Ontario, including our own. We make, age and bottle all wine we sell. We position ourselves as producing premium quality wines that deliver great value.

Muscedere: We target the pre-mium segment of the wine market by producing premium red and white wines, from hand-picked estate grapes. Our wines are tar-geted to wine lovers and the educated wine consumer.

Speck: With extreme caution. Right now there are likely too many win-


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eries for the current size of the VQA market. It’s very expensive

And it’s extremely competitive with both foreign and domestic wines and wineries.

Sullivan: This is a very challeng-ing time to start a winery here in Ontario, but that’s clearly not stop-

need to do three things to suc-ceed: Sell wine, make good wine and be adequately capitalized. I used think that you had to know how to grow good fruit to be suc-cessful, but depending upon your business model, this may not be so.

others to start a winery in Ontario,

We would advise people to gain as much knowledge from as many different sources as possible before

starting, especially those sources that you feel best emulate what you would like your winery to become.

Speck: I love that each year is dif-ferent because of our reliance on Mother Nature. I love that we can take the product from the start to

-taurant or at home drinking and enjoying our wine. I love that it is so competitive because it forces us to work hard to be the best we can be. It’s always changing. It is fun creating a product and a region that people love. It’s not like mak-ing and selling widgets.

Sullivan: We are in the business of pleasure, so mostly we encounter consumers enjoying themselves

and our wine. It is a varied, excit-ing way of life that blends farming, craft and communication, so in

Muscedere: I love the people, the family atmosphere of the business. Big or small, most wineries have a family atmosphere (ours included) and most winery owners/opera-tors are friendly, helpful people. We have met many great people, customers, winery owners and wine makers who have become great friends.

Speck: Our goal is to build the next great Canadian wine company in Canada and then take the show on the road globally. We will con-tinue to grow our vineyards and winery only if we can continue


Saturday, August 27, 201111:00 am to 4:00 pm

Stirling, Ontario

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Includes 10 taste tickets and festival souvenir (additional taste tickets available for purchase)

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to increase quality and maintain price points which make the busi-ness viable.

Sullivan: I aspire to be sustainable in all elements of the business, regard-less of our size, and regarded as a reference point for wines both locally and internationally. (Ontario wines will be highly regarded around the world and we will be an industry leader in that context).

balanced lifestyle that will allow for succession.

Muscedere: To be a 5,000-case producer of premium wines, known throughout the wine industry as the producer of world-class premium red wines from Lake Erie North Shore.

Speck: I was going to go to law school before I decided to help my

Henry of Pelham. I always wanted to be a racecar driver. I studied philosophy, so I’d likely would be unemployed.

Sullivan: Good question. Who

Muscedere: Both Rob and I would be pursuing the careers we were in prior to starting the winery: Rob was in the automotive engineering industry and I was in product man-agement in the consumer product goods industry. GV

GVMORE Q&A ONLINE grapevinemagazine.ca

www.ecowater.ca


PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY MAP

MAP AVAILABLE


AND iPAD

EDITION.


including:





PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY MAP

Creative Proof Sheet Summer 2011

Sid

eStr

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y

264 Main St. W

ellington, Ontario 613.399.5550 w

ww.sidestreetgallery.com

Sharon Bower

Jane Rutter

Paulette Greer, Owner

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REGIONAL TASTING NOTES

TONY ASPLER

TastingNotesREGIONAL WINES OF ONTARIO

MORE TASTING NOTES ONLINE!www.grapevinemagazine.caGV

GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE RATINGS:

Outstanding characteristics and exhilarating to drink. Excellent quality, complexity and depth.

Excellent characteristics and very enjoyable to

complexity and depth.

Very good characteristics and a pleasure to drink. Expresses good quality, balance, complexity and depth.

Good characteristics and drinkable. Simple and displays some balance.

Lacking in quality, character and balance.

89This wine spent 18 months in-

barrel and is one of the best of the variety made in 2007. Dense purple-black in colour, it offers a bouquet of blackberry, plum ,white pepper and wood spice. It’s medium-bodied, fresh and lively on the palate with

ripe tannins. RATING: 89 POINTS.

GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER| 2011 81GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER| 2011 81

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DAVID LAWRASON I RATE

88

cleverly named wine was picked before the graes froze, so It is not icewine. It is cheaper than icewine,

pours bright amber with heady, complex aromas of apricot-mango fruit, crème brulee, honey and nutty resinous notes. At only 9.5% alcohol it sits 91 This is very classy – so vibrant, so elegant , with a piercing nose of lemon drop candy, spearmint, peach and spice. The key to the palate is a miniscule 8.5% alcohol, the way Riesling is handled in Germany’s Mosel Valley. It’s taut, zesty and focused, with some sweetness balanced on a pinhead by the acidity. Excellent length as well. Note that it is 375ml bottle. RATING: 91 POINTS.

This has absorbed a considerable amount of the russet-grey hue of the skin of pinot gris – putting it almost into the rosé realm. It has also taken on quite classic if typically vague pinot gris peach/plum and bready notes aromas. It’s

and good to very good length. RATING: 88 POINTS

92REGIONAL TASTING NOTES

350 BAGOT STREET, KINGSTON 613.548.7891 www.rsdesigners.net

REID & SIEMONSEN IS INSPIRED



86-

ily property, this debut Merlot is very good value. It is a lighter style that could pass for a minor Bor-deaux, with a youthful leesy/yeasty note, raspberry fruit and tobacco. It’s nicely supple and well bal-anced with light chalky tannin, living up to the new winery’s goal of making “drinkable wines”. RATING: 86 POINTS.

last to be made from the Lighthall Vineyard, which under new ownership is now producing its own table wines. This a light weight, very fresh, taut, mildly sweet sparkler with a gentle nose of yellow apple, tea biscuit and youthful

-

89

350 BAGOT STREET, KINGSTON

613.548.7891 www.rsdesigners.net

REID & SIEMONSEN IS INSPIRED


A blend of 54% Gewurztraminer and 45% Riesling with a small dose of 1% Riesling icewine. This is a brilliant wine with classic aromas of rose petal,

Pair with: Asian cuisine, seafood, curry. Drink: 2010-2014. RATING: 90 POINTS.

NATALIE MACLEAN


89

90

Classy, pronounced mocha-chocolate, barrel-derived aromas, though this is clearly high-quality oak. Beneath there’s more than enough dark fruit character to compensate, with black plum and black berry, fully ripe but fresh. Quite incredible for the 2006 vintage. The palate is balanced and fresh,

reds I’ve tasted from Strewn to date. RATING: 89 POINTS.



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92Always reliable, the latest

vintage of H of P’s Riesling icewine delivers complexity, elegance and delicate sweet-fresh balance in a model for the category.

enjoyed now or held four to six years or more for a more mature and candied/honeyed expression. RATING: 92 POINTS.



Another juicy offering from the Alvar line

nice blackberry with a hint of spice and

and black cherry. Rating: 89 POINTS

89

Unoaked Chardonnay from the house that Chardonnay (and Pinot) built. Aromas of apricot and orange lead the charge. The palate shows a slight bitterness with lime pith, but decent

one together. Rating: 92 POINTS

92

I’m not going to bore you with too many details about this wine. Those who like Gewurztraminer are already intrigued and those with a sweet tooth are salivating at the late-harvest designation. This

(familiar to late-harvest fans). This amalgamation of the two delivers a wine that’s delicate with a non-cloying palate that measures a mere two on the sugar code. Rating: 87 POINTS87


Lovely cherry, red licorice and blackberry nose gives way to blackberry and black cherry on the tongue with silky tannins. Good ageability here

Rating: 90 POINTS

8990

CITY REVIVAL.indd 1 26/08/10 10:10 PM

Wellington

Dental Centre

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Wellington, ON K0K 3L0

(613) 399-3900

harwoodestatevineyards.com

18908 Loyalist ParkwayHillier, Ontario

Here’s the second Baco producer doing a bang-up job with the grape. Nose of smoky vanilla, black raspberry and black currant, the palate has a little residual sweetness which lifts the fruit

along with muted leather and tar for backbone. Rating: 89 POINTS



PERSPECTIVES

Summer is the time that Ontario’s wineries show off to the fruits of their labours from the previous vintages while they keep one eye on the coming harvest. As you tour Ontario wine country this summer, you will

2010 and 2009 vintages, along with new wineries, new winemakers and a sense that Ontario wine is really taking off.

I am always amazed by the brave spirit and dogged romanticism of people entering the wine business, and given potentially vine-killing

impossible to blame those who de-cide to take a pass or move on. But if everyone hung back and played it safe, nothing would be proven possible. The long, deep, crisp and even Ca-nadian winter of 2011 began De-cember 6, the day I set off for three days in Niagara to visit new wineries, new winemakers and stick my nose into the barrels and tanks contain-ing the 2010 vintage. An overnight temperature plunge and bitter north wind had turned the roads, including the Burlington Skyway, to ice.

departure of winemaker Jean Pierre Colas. With his background in Cha-blis, Colas was renowned for uplift-ing Niagara Sauvignon Blancs and Chardonnays. But new winemaker

Jamie Evans , a U of Ottawa grad who had worked for Strewn and Stonechurch, has held the mantle high, creating polished, layered and lively whites through continuous attention to lees stirring – especially

The LCBO listed 2009 Syrah is dandy for $15.00, and his 2010 barrels are holding some very impressive reds as well.

-nized Crime, on what would turn out to be something of an Andrzej Lipin-ski tour. Having made wine at Vine-land, Legends, Megalomaniac and

ensconced as consulting winemak-er at Colaneri, Cornerstone and Or-ganized Crime. At Organized Crime, I was impressed by two controver-sial techniques that set him apart: using dried (appassimento) grapes to make richer reds and whites, and barrel-aging aromatic varieties like Riesling and Gewurztraminer. One can argue the theory of whether the latter in particular should work, but Organized Crime’s 2009 Riesling Reserve is worth an open mind. “We don’t want boring wines here,” said owner Jan Tarasewicz. No, ma’am!Greenlane Winery opened last summer on the site of the old Birch-wood Winery astride the QEW. The postage-stamp-sized winery will be going into major expansion this sum-mer, but the real prize for owner Rob-ert Paul (ex-Château des Charmes ) and winemaker Diane Welsh (ex-

Tawse) are some old Riesling and Cabernet vines on the property that will be converted to low-yield and be organically tended. The

-chased fruit are unremarkable, but some 2010 Riesling and Cab being coddled now in tank and barrel are a different matter completely.In the past year, winemaker Jeff Innes has completed his transition from a full-time role at Grange of Prince Edward, one of the largest wineries in Prince Edward County, to Palatine Hills in Niagara, a much larger winery owned by Niagara Lakeshore viticulturist John Neufeld. He only makes about 15,000 cases under the Palatine Hills label, but with one-million-litre capacity, he processes all kinds of wine for oth-ers. I tasted through some extremely promising 2010 barrels, including

my favourites are two whites I con-sider Palatine Hills signatures, the delicious 2010 Gewurztraminer and 2009 Sauvignon Blanc. Next door on the Niagara Lake-shore, Hinterbrook Winery opened its doors this spring. Grower Phil Nickel is switching his 34 acres into estate-only wines that debut with the 2010 vintage. The gleaming new state-of-the-art, enviro-friendly solar, geothermal and minimum-handling winery has become the playground of veteran Niagara consulting oe-nologist Natalie Spytkowsky, who also makes wine at Rosewood. Her

SUMMER TOURING IN ONTARIO


PERSPECTIVES

rich, polished and very bright 2010 whites -- and a very impressive 2010 Merlot -- will be worth waiting for.

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and Greg Wertsch (23) have open a new winery called Between the Lines on 42 acres of vineyard owned by their family since 1998 when they emigrated from the Wurttemberg

-ated from Niagara College in 2008, while Greg studied wine econom-ics at Geisenheim in Germany, part of a carefully- orchestrated plan to “escape tough times as farmers” and launch into the wine business. They have opened with a line of under $14.00 line-priced, screw-cap varietals, all cleanly made with good varietal character. Neighbouring Pondview, opened in 2010, is yet another example of long-time growers in the Niagara-on-the-Lake region moving into the

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3,800 cases from 60 acres in 2009, bumping up to 6,000 cases in 2010. “It was the best growing season vintage I have seen in my lifetime,” said Pugliese, “and a great relief after 2008 and 2009, which were

-

made the notable 2009 Bella Terra Chardonnay, selected for the Seri-ously Cool Chardonnay expedition to Manhattan in March. Pinot Grigio and Gewurz 2010 look particularly promising, as do the 2009 Merlot

spring.

tour was the massive, 18,000 square--

ery, perched on the brow of the St. David’s Bench. It is, by my reckoning

Niagara, and perhaps only rivalled by B.C.’s Mission Hill as the largest in Canada. Michael, Nick and Betty Colaneri launched the project in 2002, replanting their 25 acres, then

starting winery construction in 2008. It became operational in 2010 with a temporary retail/tasting area, with the rest of the large-scale hospitality space to completed over the next two years. Aforementioned Andrzej Lipiniski has made a wide range of innovative and often intense vari-etals, each named for a member of

appassimento red called Corposo was released this spring.

Our tour moves eastward to the wineries of Prince Edward County, who are looking forward to a ban-ner summer. Most County wineries will be releasing 2010 whites from a warm, dry, even season that many say is the best vintage to date. And many have released or will soon release 2009 Pinot Noirs, from a dif-

that has Pinot-enthusiasts excited. If you’re planning a County tast-ing excursion, I suggest you plan spend three or four days – or two weekends – to take in the region’s growing portfolio. The County is home to at least 30 wineries, but no one ever seems to know the exact number because some are sort of semi-open, or they make wines in borrowed facilities. The map in this edition of Grapevine is actually the best one available for planning your route, as other maps only show win-eries that belong to certain organi-zations. The County now divides into three broad geographical regions. The Hillier region in the southwest corner is the most densely populated with 19 wineries along, or just off, the Loyalist Parkway between Consec-on and Wellington. There are six on Closson Road alone. But the seven wineries in the eastern Picton-Wau-poos-Adolphustown stretch deserve a full day of their own. And you can spend yet another, perhaps shorter, day visiting four more winer-ies in southern part of the County in the South Bay-Milford-Cherry Valley


PERSPECTIVES

Nearby on Royal Road itself, Exultet is preparing to release yet another blockbuster Pinot called The Be-loved. It’s a single-barrel, estate-grown 2009 that also sports amazing colour depth and very lifted aromas of violets and blackberry that re-mind me of Pinots from neighbour Long Dog. Winemaker Gerry Spino-sa says it was sourced from a block where he had been ruthless with his green harvest, bringing yields to very low levels. It explains the dif-

The summer growing season was so cool and wet and behind the clock that he began to thin fruit early in the hope of getting some of it ripe. But the weather turned warm and dry on Labour Day and stayed that way through most of September and at last half of October, allowing catch-up ripeness. Other winemakers are pleased with their 2009 Pinots for the same reason – this earlier-ripening grape was saved by the tail end of the season, making wines that are gen-

-ate tannin and full expression of the County terroir. What’s more, there is a growing community of very good Pinots to choose from. By May 1st, I had tasted almost all of them, even though some may not be released yet, and some were still in barrel. They certainly differ through wine-making interpretation, but there is

am particularly encouraged and impressed by 2009 Pinots from The

Rosehall Run and Norman Hardie.In the spring, when this was penned, very few 2010s were released, but I have had some interesting and controversial wines from Closson Chase and Lacey Estate. Closson Chase is controversial by nature, as winemaker Deborah Paskus always

depth she can achieve, albeit with

area.I want to linger on this latter area. With the opening of Lighthall Winery in May, there are now three very se-riously good producers along, or just off off Royal Road, west of Milford in the County’s deep south. Light-hall joins Long Dog and Exultet in

Lake Ontario. It faces the full brunt of westerlies off Athol Bay, which is a boon for rapid drying of the vine-yards. More importantly, the top soils (gravelled sand and clay) are quite thin in spots, so roots hit the limestone bedrock quickly. I am per-

-gance and minerality this is creating in the wines, from the earliest wines of Long Dog, to the racy new Pinots and Chardonnays of Exultet, to the new-old Chardonnays of Lighthall.County observers will be familiar with the Lighthall Vineyards contri-

Chardonnays from Huff Estate,

vintage. In 2008, Peter and Alice Minnaker sold the eight-acre vine-yard to Ottawa pharmacist Glenn Symons,who moved his family to

-en acres. He has also hired David

-maker who worked several years in the Okanagan before answering the call to come home -- as his as-sistant. Lighthall plans to make 2,000 cases of all-County, but has gone to Niagara for fruit for some brands in order to get inventory up and running, and to indulge a personal passion for Gewurztraminer. But his 2009 County Chardonnay Reserve is unmistakeably mineral driven, just like the previous Huff Chardonnays. Symons has a very small production 2009 Pinot Noir Reserve Particulaire ($50.00, winery only) that is shock-ingly profound and well structured, though still two years away from achieving a state of grace.

Ci vediamo Presto!(See you soon!)

3609 County Road 8, Picton

613-476-8198

May – Oct Daily 11am-6pm

[email protected] www.del-gattoestates.ca

613-399-2344www.williamdesigncompany.com

Kitchens | Bars | O!ces | Vanities | Media Centres| Organizers | Fireplaces


PERSPECTIVES

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2010 Sans Chêne Chardonnay) is amazingly textured and exotic, and you would swear by the evolved colour and complexity that it had been in oak. She has also made a silky, dry, very pale copper-toned rosé with distinct Pinot Noir under-

neighbouring Lacey Estate on Clos--

sists at Closson Chase) has turned heads with a fascinating 2010 Pinot Gris that has taken on the quite re-markable pink/grey pearl colour of the Pinot Gris grape, whose skin at ripeness makes it look more like a red grape than a white one. Lacey reports that this failed VQA twice for being atypical, but it is – through my eyes – a classic.We end on a sweet --and hopefully uplifting -- note. I have mentioned in the past that the hybrid Vidal grape is becoming increasingly popular in the County for sparkling wines and sweet wines and the occasional ta-ble wine. Well, so is another hybrid

-ple skinned, aromatic variety with a very low winter freeze threshold. It was introduced by the University of Minnesota Horticultural Research Centre in 2003. The skin colour lends to the making of rosé, but its real strength is in dessert wines. And you need no further proof than the smashing Huff 2010 Zero de Gris,

-déric Picard. The very cool name was selected by Huff from submis-sions to a naming contest conduct-ed over the internet.So as you head out for a weekend wine tour in Niagara and The Coun-ty this summer, think twice. Think

need that much time to enjoy the fruits of our Ontario winemakers’ la-

bours. GV

Chestnut Park Real Estate Limited, Brokerage

Prince Edward County/Picton

Sales & Service on pre-owned Audi, VW, Porche, BMW, Mercedes Benz, Volvo

NIAGARA/PELEE MAP

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NIAGARA/PELEE MAP

MAP AVAILABLE


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WHERE TO STAY & EAT

NIAGARA REGIONAL ACCOMMODATIONS

Atherton House B&B4265 21st StVineland, ON1.877.562.8902905-562-[email protected]

Black Walnut Manor 4255 Victoria Ave. Vineland, ON 1.800.859.4786 or 905.562.8675 [email protected] www.blackwalnutmanor.com

1879 Lakeshore Road, Niagara-on-the-Lake, ON1.905.468.7377 www.v-ip.com/clover

Touch of Spice Guest House 3849 Victoria Avenue Vineland, ON 905.562.0319 [email protected] www.touchofspiceguesthouse.com

Grand Victorian 15618 Niagara Parkway

Niagara-on-the-Lake, [email protected] www.grandvictorian.ca

Best Western Beacon Harbourside Inn & Suites Conference Centre 2793 Beacon Boulevard, Jordan, ON 1.888.823.2266 [email protected] www.bwbeacon.com

Comfort Inn St. Catharines 2 Dunlop Drive St. Catharines, ON 1.877.289.9015 [email protected] www.choicehotels.ca/cn303

Days Inn St. Catharines 89 Meadowvale Drive, St. Catharines, ON 1.888.688.2325 [email protected] www.heartofniagarahotels.com

St. Catharines 3530 Schmon Parkway Thorold, ON 1.877.848.3782 [email protected] www.fourpoints.com/stcatharines

Holiday Inn St. Catharines 2 North Service Road St. Catharines, ON 1.877.737.8011

[email protected] www.heartofniagarahotels.com

Quality Hotel Parkway Convention Centre 327 Ontario Street St. Catharines, ON 1.877.737.8012 [email protected] www.heartofniagarahotels.com

Travelodge St. Catharines 420 Ontario Street St. Catharines, ON 905.688.1646 [email protected] www.travelodge.com

REGIONAL NIAGARA RESTAURANTS

Bistro/Wine Bar

Old Winery Restaurant and Wine Bar : Tony DeLuca : Niagara-on-the-

Lake, ON : 905.468.8900

Address: 2228 Niagara Stone Rd. www.theoldwineryrestaurant.com

Cave Spring Cellars3836 Main StreetJordan, Ontario, L0R 1S0 Canada1.905.562.3581 ext. [email protected]


WHERE TO STAY & EAT

www.cavespringcellars.com

Ravine VineyardChefs: Collin Goodine & Paul Harber

St. David’s, ON 905.262.8463

Address: www.ravinevineyard.com

Treadwell’s Stephen Treadwell Port Dalhousie, ON

Address: 61 Lakeport Road 905.934.9797

www.treadwellcuisine.com

Restaurant Oban Inn

Wes LescoNiagara-on-the-Lake, ON

905.468.2165Address:www.obaninn.ca

REGIONAL ACCOMMODATIONS

Hillsdale House Bed & Breakfast332 Main Street

[email protected]/625.html

Sandbanks Vacations*Various Cottage Rentals

1.877.399.2508 or 613.476.7378www.sandbanksvacations.com

County Holiday Homes1.866.576.5993www.countyholidayhomes.cominfo@countyholidayhomes.com

Inn at Huff Estates2274 County Road 1

613.393.1414www.huffestates.com

The Queen’s Inn145 Main St. Picton, ON613-476-8618888-476-[email protected]

REGIONAL RESTAURANTS

Restaurant

Reservations: 613.393.1087

www.bloomfieldcarriagehouse.com

Restaurant at the Merrill InnChef: Michael SullivanNeighbourhood: Picton, ON.Reservations: 613.476.7451

Address: 343 Main St. Pictonwww.merrillinn.com

Bistro/Wine Bar

Blumen Garden Bistro

Neighbourhood: Picton. ON.Reservations: 613.476.6841Address: 647 Hwy. 49 Pictonwww.blumengardenbistro.com

East and Main BistroChef: Lilly SullivanNeighbourhood: Wellington, ON.Reservations: 613.399.5420Address: 270 Main St.Wellington, ONwww.eastandmain.ca

Capers BrasserieChef: Jeff CamachoNeighbourhood: Belleville, ON.Reservations: 613.968.7979

www.capers.ca

Casa Dea EstatesChef: Joshua LabelleNeighbourhood: Rosehall, ONReservations: 613.399.3939Address: 1186 Greer Rd., Hillierwww.casadeaestates.com

Café

Harden & Huyse Chocolates201 Division St.Cobourg, ON.905.377.9917www.greatchocolate.com


DID YOU KNOW

Did You Know?

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WAYNE GRETZKY ESTATE WINERYSince its inception in 2007, Wayne Gretzky Estate Winery has achieved critical acclaim and won numerous national awards. You can find Wayne’s wines in every province and all of them are proudly 100% VQA, grown in Niagara.

Open daily, this winery is a destination for hockey fans and wine enthusiasts alike. visitors to Wayne Gretzky Estate Winery can view Gretzky memorabilia as they taste the full portfolio of Gretzky wine at our tasting bar. Limited edition wines and merchandise available exclusively at the winery.

Visit us or shop on line at WWW.GRETZKYESTATEWINES. COM

Retail Store Hours:Summer : Monday – Sunday 10 am – 6 pmWinter: Monday – Sunday 10 am – 5 pm

3751 King St., Vineland, ON. L0R 2C0Phone: 905.562.4945 Fax: 905.562.5761 Email: [email protected]

“Having my own winery in Niagara allows me to contribute to the growing reputation of wines from a region that’s close to my heart and to my home town. Each wine has been created in the service of my foundation and I am very proud of the fact that with every bottle you enjoy, we’re able to help kids in communities across Canada”

Since opening our cellar doors in 1997, we’ve been called a lot of things: bold, innovative, gutsy, obsessive, quirky, unique - even culty, and surely a few things unfit to print. Yet our vision has never wavered and the recognition we’ve earned over the years is a test-- ament to the importance of sticking to your grapes. Cheers!

[ ]Triple Gold Medal winner at Cuvée2008, 2009, 2010 + 2011

Voted one of the top 1O Ontario wineries, Canadian Wine Awards

Retail Store and Tasting Bar: Open Daily May – Oct 10-6 The Deck @ Creekside: Weekend Lunches 11-3 June – October www.creeksidewine.comCREEKSIDE ESTATE WINERY 2170 FOURTH AVENUE, JORDAN, ONTARIO, CANADA 1.905. 562.0035

Serious wines from an irreverent bunch.

“Really very Burgundian. Real density. Norman Hardie

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

“It’s quite simply the best Pinot Noir I have tasted in Ontario”

– Tony Aspler!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

""#$!%&''&!()*+,!(-(-"!./00/'&,!123*&/)4"5-566-#$67!888-2)&9*2:*&+/'-;)9

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