Gossypium hopi: Product Value for Consumers through Heritage, History and Culture

Author: Alicia Taylor Faculty Mentor: Marissa Zorola, Merchandising and Digital Retail, College of Merchandising, Hospitality & Tourism College and Department Affiliation: Merchandising, College of Merchandising, Hospitality & Tourism

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Bio: Alicia Taylor is a senior in the College of Merchandising, Hospitality & Tourism at the University of North Texas.

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Abstract:

Gossypium hopi cotton has a distinctive cultural history and is a part of Pueblo heritage. This

study explores the benefits of cultivation and production for consumers as value; for designers,

firms and brands as a tool for differentiation and for the Pueblo community as a means of

reviving and safeguarding a component of their heritage. Today’s savvy consumer views

traditional value offerings such as cost and availability as integral components of products and

services they consider for purchase. In order for products to meet consumers’ expectations of

distinctiveness, they must offer extraordinary value that connects with the consumer on a more

profound level. Consumers’ comprehensive expectations can be met by incorporating Gossypium

hopi’s and the Pueblo’s history, culture and heritage into all phases of product development,

marketing and promotions. Furthermore, consumers can experience sustainable exclusivity,

connect with a brand or product story and feel they are contributing to society through their

purchase decisions. Brand differentiation may also be accomplished through this unique value

story and communities such as the Pueblo community can continue to strengthen and grow in a

culturally sustainable and economically beneficial fashion. Further exploration of methods to

elevate Gossypium hopi to a luxury material through sustainable approaches and developing

means to mesh new technology with heritage skills may lead to more sustainable competitive

advantages for firms and benefits to society.

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Introduction

In a global society where speed to market, low prices and constant innovation are

priorities, reaching an emotional connection with consumers presents both a challenge and an

opportunity. As consumers participate more fully in brand positioning and success, their

changing expectations and opinions cause brands to focus on developing strategies that will

provide differentiation, as well as greater value for their consumers. A focus on products’ culture

and heritage provide brands a means of creating greater value for their consumers through

engagement with and emotional response to the brand or product. Consumers are increasingly

searching for brands that not only address heritage and culture, but that help maintain and

safeguard them. By exploring the history and botany of Gossypium hopi, the Pueblo people’s

history as it relates to G. hopi and the cultural significance of cotton, as well as the emerging

trend of highlighting culture and heritage and the importance of story, opportunities for brand

differentiation, engaging consumers, and meeting their increased value expectations are

identified.

The Pueblo Community and Gossypium hopi.

Cotton remains an important fiber for textile production due to the fiber’s inherent

characteristics of breathability, strength, and durability. Although much of the fiber produced is

genetically modified, cotton has a long, culturally rich heritage valued by many communities

such as the Santa Clara Pueblo in Espanola, New Mexico. This community is reviving

cultivation of Gossypium hopi as a sustainable and organic fiber option. By growing Hopi cotton,

they can meet the needs of their community for fiber in a way that reestablishes traditional

methods and maintains their cultural heritage.

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The Pueblo’s revival of Gossypium hopi and traditional cultivation and processing of this

aboriginal fiber positions this community to have the ability to fulfill the needs of their

community and have an impact in textile fiber sourcing. In fashion and home furnishing

merchandising, a product’s story begins with sourcing. In many cases, sourcing begins with raw

materials, one of which is fiber. Taking into consideration consumers’ increasing focus on

cultural elements, sourcing from small, culture-focused producers of fibers with a strong heritage

and natural production methods offer opportunities to create an emotional connection with

consumers. By looking at Pueblo culture and history and the cultural significance of Gossypium

hopi, an opportunity for merchandisers to meet consumers’ emerging expectations of value

through emotional connection is presented.

The History and Botany of Gossypium hopi

Gossypium hopi has been noted as the only aboriginal cotton species in the southwestern

United States, appearing at approximately 700 A.D. during the Pueblo I Period (Kent, 1957).

Prior to this time, there is no known proof of cotton’s existence in the southwest (Kent, 1957).

Kate Peck Kent (1957) includes a theory in her research that states Hopi cotton is a cross

between “an American wild species and a domestic cotton from Asia.” Furthermore, this theory

suggests that pre-Polynesian man brought the plant from Asia to Peru. From Peru, the cotton was

disseminated by man to three regions, one of which was Central America including southern

Mexico and Guatemala (Kent, 1957). The plant then spread north to Arizona and New Mexico

from a Mayan center before the growth of the Aztec empire (Kent, 1957).

Gossypium hopi has the shortest growing season on record, approximately 84 to 100 days

and it can be cultivated in both arid and high altitude environments (Kent, 1957). The seeds were

originally used for food and the fiber for weaving textiles (Kent, 1957). The fibers are 18-25 mm

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and the lint silky, strong and fine (Fulton, 1938). In past research it was believed that the small

size of Hopi bolls and their low yield, approximately 1,403 bolls for 1 pound of lint, was an

undesirable character for commercial production (Fulton, 1938); however, it is now known that

the size of the boll is affected by the level of irrigation (Garcia, personal communication, March

1, 2014). With minimal irrigation the plants will yield a smaller boll whereas with increased

irrigation, the bolls will grow to equal size of other cotton species (Garcia, personal

communication, March 1, 2014).

Traditionally, seeds were separated from the lint by hand. The aboriginal Hopi cotton

seeds had a high oil content that facilitated separation of lint from seeds thus making this cotton

a preferable crop for fiber production during times of hand separating and later ginning, however

that characteristic no longer exists in the cotton plants (P. Swentzel, personal communication,

March 1, 2014). After the ginning was completed, men carded the cotton, spun the yarn and

wove the textiles, which usually consisted of “specialized items acquired, used, and discarded in

a highly-prescribed ritual manner” (Webster, 1997).

Although the early Pueblos also used other materials for textile production, cotton was

the only material cultivated for this purpose in the Southwest (Baldwin, 1939). It was primarily

used for making cloth for robes and mantles, and to a lesser extent, to produce items such as

sandals, belts and bags (Baldwin, 1939). Cotton continued as a primary fiber for textile

production until the introduction of wool by the Spaniards in 1540 and with the introduction and

accessibility of commercially produced textiles and yarns in the nineteenth century (Spicer 1954;

Kent, 1957). After this time, cotton was only cultivated in certain villages specifically for

ceremonial use (Kent, 1957).

The Pueblo’s History as It Relates to and Cultural Significance of Cotton

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The northern Pueblo people, known as the Ancient Pueblo, populated the San Juan area

from approximately the time of Christ and have been considered the oldest culture in North

America (Kent, 1957; Leo & Anderson, 2007). Pueblo people, descended from the Ancient

Pueblo, distinguished themselves from neighboring nomadic tribes through their originality and

inventiveness in development of their communities (Leo & Anderson, 2007). Rather than

nomadic in nature, Pueblo communities were farming communities, used irrigation systems, and

lived in permanent houses (Leo & Anderson, 2007). These characteristics often associated with

European communities of the time, were a part of Pueblo culture long before Spanish contact.

Cotton was of great significance to Pueblo people initially as a food source and gradually

as a textile fiber for clothing and blankets (P. Swentzel, personal communication, March 1,

2014). The textiles made from cotton often held central roles in sacred events and ceremonial

rituals (Webster, 1997). Women in the community grew the cotton and men carded fiber, spun

yarn and wove textiles (P. Swentzel, personal communication, March 1, 2014). The separating of

seed from lint, or ginning, included a social component where family members joined together to

talk, share a meal and accomplish the task (Swentzel, personal communication, March 1, 2014).

As stated previously, Spanish introduction of wool greatly reduced the use of cotton and wool

eventually became the primary fiber used for textiles (Leo & Anderson, 2007). For the Pueblo,

there is great significance in each element of life. Cotton is associated with rain clouds. Rain

clouds, in turn, represent their ancestors returning to bless the people with rain.

Rain was, and continues to be, an important element for sustaining the land and growing food.

Due to these beliefs and associated significance, cotton as a fiber and articles woven with cotton

are important and hold a special place in the Pueblo people’s culture (Garcia, 2012). Today, the

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Pueblo people consider the revival of Hopi cotton an important contribution to their community

and a way to maintain and safeguard a part of their heritage.

An Emerging Value Trend - Heritage and Culture

Heritage and culture, as value dimensions, have taken a backseat to speed-to-market and

low cost. Consumers’ ability to purchase products quickly and inexpensively has led to a culture

of instant purchase gratification (“The Objects”, n.d.). Instant gratification has, in turn, created

the desire for products with meaning and lasting qualities (“The Objects”, n.d.). Generally, these

qualities are found in luxury products, however even luxury brands, once viewed as exclusive,

have experienced a drop in consumer perception of exclusivity. This is due, in part, to the fact

that exclusivity and luxury are often associated in consumers’ minds (Carr, 2013). A study

conducted by Altagamma and the Boston Consultancy Group found that the “’intrinsic values of

craftsmanship, quality and exclusivity” are once again viewed as the most important factors for

70% of the 40,000 consumers surveyed in over 20 countries (Binni, 2014). These changes in

consumer perceptions and their association with value have seemingly led firms to develop value

innovation strategies and create the emerging trend of highlighting heritage and culture (Bang,

2010). These two elements, often communicated through craftsmanship, can educate consumers

about materials and processes; create a sense of narrative and increase a brand’s legitimacy

(Montgomery, n.d.). Craftsmanship, more often than not, includes skills passed down through

generations and production methods with a foundation in history.

Well-known luxury brands, realizing that consumers will pay premium prices if they

recognize value, now strive to strengthen their luxury identity and clearly distinguish their

products through collaborations and marketing (Carr, 2013; Montgomery, n.d.). LVHM created

an event where the company opened its doors to its exclusive locations in Europe to showcase

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the craftsmanship that goes into their products and highlight their national and brand heritage to

increase value for their consumers (Carr, 2013). Similarly, Fendi produced a short documentary

film to highlight the craftsmanship with which their products are made and to engage their

customers by communicating that by purchasing a Fendi product, they are participating in

something extraordinary (Jones, 2014).

The Importance of Story

A separation between consumer and producer has been created by mass production. As a

result, consumers’ interest in the origin and story of products has increased brands’ opportunities

to differentiate their products and enhance value by connecting with consumers on an emotional

level (“Bespoke“, n.d.; (Still) Made Here”, n.d.). Here again the history, heritage and culture of

Gossypium hopi and the Pueblo present a sourcing opportunity that can effectively shape a

consumer’s experience, thus increasing value perception through story. A product’s heritage and

cultural story can create a sense of discovery for consumers and elicit emotional responses.

Through a sense of learning, deeper connections with products or brands may develop due to the

experience of discovering something that may not be common knowledge (Brown, 2013). This,

in turn, creates a sense of exclusivity for the consumer, differentiates products from competitors

in the market, and makes the brand human and memorable to the consumer (Brown, 2013).

Furthermore, the product’s story enriches the consumer experience while addressing the growing

concern with ethical and sustainable production.

Value through experience and meaning in purchases is another consumer value

dimension that has led top-name designers such as Dries Van Noten, Jean Paul Gaultier, Carlos

Miele, and Matthew Williamson, to incorporate heritage products from artisans in their

collections (“Culture and Skills”, n.d.). In collaborations such as these, artisans, designers, and

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consumers all receive value and benefit. Artisans preserve heritage skills while contributing to

the longevity of their cultures and their communities’ economies. Meanwhile, designers and

brands are able to leverage the stories associated with artisans’ work to differentiate and add

another level of exclusivity to their products. Efforts to meet consumers’ perceptual, as well as

functional, value expectations are addressed by several firms in simple ways. Timberland, a

footwear manufacturer, for example, now adds a story label to their products to reassure

customers and create interest and engagement (“(Still) Made Here”, n.d.). Hiut Denim, in the

Welsh town of Cardigan, created their product incorporating story as an integral part of their

process and further engaged their consumers by including a link with instructions on their

product history tags, where consumers can register and add memories associated with use of

their product (Jiwa, n.d.). Other well-known companies that have leveraged stories to engage

consumers by helping them feel a part of the product landscape include Apple and Zappos.com

(Sloan, n.d.). Through the experience of purchasing and owning products from these brands and

designers, consumers receive increased value in the quality and craftsmanship of the product and

by the perception that they are contributing to something that benefits society. Because of this,

their purchase experience is transformed from passive to active, where an emotional connection

is more likely to result.

Brand Differentiation, Consumer Engagement, and Increased Value Expectations

The importance of a well-rounded value proposition cannot be overstated and companies

should consider trends as guides for the development of strategic value differentiation. The fact

that value is directly related to consumer satisfaction is supported by studies such as the 2013

Product Mindset Study. This study suggests that opportunities to increase consumer satisfaction

exist by addressing the gap between consumer responses, indicating that supply chain

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transparency is important to them (84%), and consumer responses indicating that they do not

believe manufacturers provide the desired transparency (42%) (“The Product Mindset”, n.d.).

These statistics coupled with those that point to quality as the number one consideration for 95%

of manufacturers and 51% of consumers, support the opportunity to fill the gaps by considering

small, culture-focused sources for materials and including product story as part of the product

development process (“The Product Mindset”, n.d.). Additionally, the World Trade Organization

recognizes culture and heritage skill preservation as tools for differentiation for brands in

competitive markets (“Culture and Skills”, n.d.). A focus on culture is also often viewed as an

important aspect of economic growth and development (Klamer, 2001). Sourcing heritage-rich

materials from communities such as the Pueblo, offer brands opportunities for supply chain

transparency that also creates value differentiation. The heritage, history, and culture of the

Pueblo can increase consumers’ value perception of brands sourcing Gossypium hopi for use in

their products and by communicating these elements to their consumers.

Practical Implications and Observations

The advent of an era where consumers are no longer satisfied with only fulfilling their

materialistic needs, but are also searching for deeper meaning, engagement and connection with

brands as added value, has positioned materials once thought as common or unusable as viable

options for apparel and home goods production. This shift in consumer value perception and the

subsequent elevating of materials provide an opportunity to position cotton with a distinctive

heritage and strong cultural association as a prime material for luxury goods. Gossypium hopi’s

inherent qualities and the Pueblo’s dedication to growing and processing it using traditional

methods, create a value-added element where tradition, culture, quality and sustainability meet to

increase product value and brand differentiation.

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Possible Product Assortment/Offering

A versatile fiber, cotton is used in a wide range of products including fashion apparel and

home furnishing products. Trends in both markets indicate that small-scale production and

craftsmanship in the processing of the fiber, and products made from it, are timely

considerations. Even though new materials and methods of reusing materials to create

responsible textiles exist, cotton’s heritage and strong influence in economic and cultural areas of

society position it as an important fiber for artisanal, luxury products.

Home products such as table runners, wall hangings and floor coverings woven using

traditional methods but incorporating exaggerated textures and fringe are emerging as a trend for

interiors in 2015 (“Confluence”, 2014). Additionally, as seen in the 2014 Spring Edition of the

High Point Market, furniture trends where products are handcrafted by artisans using authentic

methods are setting the style and quality standards for the home furnishings market (“Editor’s

Picks”, 2014). Yarn and textiles made using Gossypium hopi can easily be incorporated into any

of the aforementioned products. Furthermore, with the Pueblo’s significant focus on and

expertise in traditional weaving methods, collaborations for product development with home

products brands would result in unique, high-quality, artisanal products.

Fashion trends for both men and women offer direction for design and product

development. Stylesight’s forecasted “Modern Etiquette” megatrend (2013) for men emphasizes

modern elegance for gentlemen. Beautifully crafted dress shirts and slacks made with textiles

incorporating Gossypium hopi can convey elegance, honoring the past while establishing a

standard for the modern man. Similarly for women, the “Bygone Bespoke” megatrend (2013)

reinstates fine tailoring for women. On a more casual level, designers’ continued love of denim

is fueling the trend of elevating denim to runway status as seen in Channel’s and Marc Jacobs’

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shows (Welch, 2014). These trends, along with G. hopi’s heritage and cultural story, can position

cotton as a go-to fiber for luxury apparel. G. hopi cotton textiles can offer the quality of past

bespoke garments while incorporating more recent sustainability and social responsibility

elements through the fiber’s heritage and culturally appropriate production methods. Although

these two examples are in line with stated trend forecasts, other apparel products such as dresses,

shorts, knits, and accessories can also be elevated to the luxury category.

Potential Designer/Retailer Collaborations/Partnerships

Established luxury brands’ familiarity with, and understanding of, craftsmanship and the

value of heritage make them well suited for collaborations and partnerships with the growers of

Gossypium hopi. Armani, whose experience with unconventional materials began in the early

nineties, could be considered an excellent brand for collaboration or partnership (Buesing,

2014; McMillan, n.d.). Additionally, the brand’s established position in the luxury fashion

category enhances the potential for success. A collaboration or partnership with Manolo Blahnik,

Valentino, or Fendi could also provide an opportunity to work with an established luxury brand

that is addressing sustainability at the luxury level to differentiate their brands and update

product offerings (McMillan, n.d.).

Well-known contemporary luxury brands with social, ethical, and environmental foci also

present viable partnership and collaborative opportunities. Brands such as Edun, owned by

LVMH and associated with Bono, his wife Stella McCartney, and Bruno Pieters, all present

potentially advantageous partnership opportunities for products made from a heritage fiber such

as Gossypium hopi (McMillan, n.d.). A more recent entrant into the luxury market with a

dedicated focus on social and environmental issues is Maiyet. Maiyet, rapidly reaching status

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comparable to other similarly focused brands, might also provide collaborative and partnership

opportunities for G. hopi growers (McMillan, n.d.).

Promotional and Marketing Strategies

The versatility of cotton allows targeting of most existing consumer market segments.

However, due to the time and care with which Gossypium hopi is cultivated and processed,

luxury brand markets present a better match for products incorporating G. hopi fiber. Keeping in

mind the fact that G. hopi is currently grown only by Pueblo communities for weaving

ceremonial products, alliances with well-known designers and brands mentioned previously will

create awareness of G. hopi’s added value to established luxury markets consumers. Since a

focus on the value added by heritage and cultural elements is key, the stories of the Pueblo and

G. hopi will create interest and connection with consumers.

Effective promotional strategies for products made with G. hopi should include cultural,

educational, and social responsibility elements achieved through event sponsorships, social

media, and initiatives to benefit society. Culturally focused events provide opportunities for

meaningful sponsorships and story dissemination. These sponsorships could include locally

specific events such as student fashion shows including the American Indian Graduate Student

Association fashion show, and fashion exhibits at smaller, local galleries. Sponsorships can also

include highly advertised, high profile events such as fashion week and fashion exhibitions in

museums. Exhibits should highlight collections with elements of heritage and have a culture

focus.

Exclusivity is another powerful positioning tool to include in G. hopi’s and associated

product marketing. Traditional cultivation and production of this fiber results in smaller levels of

output, which subsequently restrict the product availability. This restricted availability together

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with the product’s quality, heritage, and story create a formula for success in the luxury market.

Furthermore, a textile firm or designer sourcing G. hopi as a fiber, in yarn or textile form, has the

potential of creating a first-to-market category for their products or designs through the

combination of stated characteristics, quality, and the rarity with which this type of heritage-rich

product is sourced in the United States for apparel and home furnishing products. One might

further consider that elevating American-made to the status of European-crafted can be a potent

and beneficial element for the first-to-market promotional strategy. This unique sourcing story

adds further value and exclusivity and can contribute to the success of products launched in the

luxury market. Social and cultural responsibility marketing initiatives should also focus on

America’s culture and population. Re-shoring initiatives in the U.S. have focused mainly on

manufacturing industries and bringing jobs back to the U.S. while educating firms about the

economic benefits of local sourcing (“Coming Home”, 2013). While many companies now tout

the “made in America” aspect of their business as a differentiating strategy, the strong focus on

bringing jobs back to the U.S. can send a negative message to global supply chain partners.

Furthermore, cotton’s heritage and history is often related to slavery, which can evoke negative

feelings within the nation. Focusing on the G. hopi’s history and heritage, which is largely

unrelated to cotton’s history in the Southern region of the United States, establishes a more

positive position for cotton and does not impart questionable messages to international supply

chain partners.

Supply chain and economic considerations also contribute to social and cultural

responsibility strategies for product promotion and can enhance public relations. Even though

firms claim they are re-shoring, many still outsource part of their production (“Coming Home”,

2013). While the U.S. is the third largest producer of cotton in the world, 65% of its supply was

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exported between 2010 and 2012 and 99% of the cotton cultivated was transgenic (“Cotton is a”,

n.d.). Sourcing socially and environmentally beneficial raw materials in greater proximity to

other supply chain partners in the U.S. optimizes manufacturing processes, increases logistical

efficiency, promotes better quality standards and increases cost effectiveness (“Coming Home”,

2013). Additionally, these supply chain benefits can be promoted as enhanced value through

story to engage consumers as benefactors to society through their purchase decisions. This value

story can be further enhanced by including information which highlights that products made with

G. hopi cotton are produced from start to finish in the U.S.

Fashion brands, luxury or otherwise, often focus their social responsibility initiatives

internationally. By focusing initiatives on the needs of the American population, much needed

assistance can be provided to people and industries within the U.S. This can evoke a sense of

national pride and engage consumers in efforts to improve circumstances in underserved areas. A

sense of national community without negative global connotations can be successfully achieved.

Initiatives such as scholarships and community building, social entrepreneurship funds and funds

dedicated for the revival and safekeeping of heritage skills would provide building blocks for

positive brand image and long lasting brand equity.

History, heritage, culture and related craftsmanship can be highlighted through story. The

benefit of story is in that it is a key component in creating emotional connections between

consumers and brands. Furthermore, story can differentiate brands in highly competitive

markets. By incorporating story throughout product development, story can directly relate to

product quality, craftsmanship, culture and heritage. The story not only makes the product better,

it becomes part of the product (Jiwa, n.d.). Consumers then relate to the product, story and brand

on a deeper, more personal level.

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Value to Consumer Groups and the Pueblo Community

As discussed throughout this paper, consumers are searching for value beyond the

materialistic experience. By engaging consumers through story about a product’s culture and

heritage, the consumer becomes a part of the storytelling experience. More specifically, they will

feel a part of something beyond their own lives and feel the motivation to share the story with

their social groups. In sharing the story, they may feel a sense of ownership in the product or

brand’s initiatives and success. Furthermore, consumers may feel a sense of community with

other consumers of the same brands as well as with the Pueblo. Nothing seems to motivate

people to help more than feeling part of a community or family.

Value for the Pueblo community lies in providing for their community and ensuring the

continuation of their cultural and heritage practices. Espanola, New Mexico is one of the poorest

regions of the country (P. Swentzel, personal communication, March 1, 2014). Pueblo

communities are filled with low-income, state supported housing (P. Swentzel, personal

communication, March 1, 2014). Culture is diluted by financial need and government initiatives

for assistance that are general in nature and do not reflect the communities’ culture and heritage.

By reviving cultivation of Gossypium hopi, the Pueblo are not only reviving parts of their

heritage, otherwise lost to current and future generations, but also creating a means of economic

sustenance for their community. Through increased job availability and community resources,

the Pueblo can shape housing, retail and education planning to better reflect their culture.

Conclusions

Consumer interest in a deeper value dimension along with brands’ search for

differentiation in a highly competitive market create an excellent opportunity for reexamining

material sources through the lens of culture and heritage. Further exploration of materials such as

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Gossypium hopi and methods of cultivation and production that hark back to a culture’s heritage,

create opportunities for community economic growth within a specific cultural context; offer

firms opportunities to source high-quality sustainable materials and create environments in

which brand differentiation and equity can be accomplished. All within the context of making a

profit, increasing sourcing options and contributing to society’s greater good.

Pursuit of sustainability is increasing in the textile and apparel industry. Innovation with

an eye toward sustainability has increased material reuse, recycling, upcycling and the

development of materials from waste as evidenced by articles found in magazines, blogs and

industry publications. All of these methods of promoting sustainability are admirable and highly

beneficial practices for consumers and society. However, emerging as a different discussion yet

still well aligned with sustainable practices are culture-focus and heritage. Further research into

the development of methods to transform a heritage fiber, considered common by most, into a

luxury product while maintaining the integrity of the culture which grows it and sustainable

elements of production, is warranted. By examining these elements rather than simply focusing

on genetic modification and advanced technology, may lead to a path where broader economic

and social gains are feasible while honoring and safeguarding heritage. Although technology and

scientific advances are important to society they may not honor culture and heritage. Heritage is

not the old but rather the often forgotten foundation for, and common thread running through,

our global society. And, this is something that consumers of all ages, economic standing and

cultures instinctively value.

Ultimately, further examining how heritage and culture can work hand-in-hand with

technology and science to increase consumer value, brand differentiation and sustainable benefits

Gossypium Hopi 19

to society may uncover profitable and brand equity building opportunities for brands and supply

chain partners and fulfill consumers’ and communities’ unmet needs.

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