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EL GOLFO de SANTA CLARA FIRST PRINTING MARCH 1999 FIRST REVISION AUGUST 2000 SECOND REVISION AUGUST 2003 THIRD REVISION AUGUST 2005 Copyright © 1999 by W. Patrick Dill Wiederman, Golfo de Santa Clara, Sonora, Mexico. All rights reserved, including the right of reproduction in whole or in part, in any form. DEDICATION This guidebook is dedicated to the memory of ‘Carl’ Sepulveda, the first person of Mexican heritage it was my privilege to know and who, during my 16 th year, became my stepfather and changed my life forever. Further, to my wife Ofelia Espinoza Gutierrez, a native born Golfeña, who with her hand in marriage, brought grace to my life. …. and las gente de bien of northern Sonora and Baja California who, over the past many years, have not only honored me with their friendship but have shown me, beyond any shadow of doubt, that true happiness is a state of mind – not of matter and that true strength is not a matter of physical force, rather an indomitable spirit. Patricio Golfo de Santa Clara Sonora, México 13 Agosto, 2005 TABLE OF CONTENTS 1 INTRODUCTION 2 2 HISTORY 4 3 EL GOLFO TODAY 5

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Page 1: Golfo de Santa Clara Guidebook

EL GOLFO

de SANTA CLARA

FIRST PRINTING MARCH 1999FIRST REVISION AUGUST 2000SECOND REVISION AUGUST 2003THIRD REVISION AUGUST 2005

Copyright © 1999 by W. Patrick Dill Wiederman, Golfo de Santa Clara, Sonora, Mexico. All rights reserved, including the right of

reproduction in whole or in part, in any form.

DEDICATION

This guidebook is dedicated to the memory of ‘Carl’ Sepulveda, the first person of Mexican heritage it was my privilege to know and who, during my 16th year, became my stepfather and changed my life forever. Further, to my wife Ofelia Espinoza Gutierrez, a native born Golfeña, who with her hand in marriage, brought grace to my life.

…. and las gente de bien of northern Sonora and Baja California who, over the past many years, have not only honored me with their friendship but have shown me, beyond any shadow of doubt, that true happiness is a state of mind – not of matter and that true strength is not a matter of physical force, rather an indomitable spirit.

PatricioGolfo de Santa Clara

Sonora, México13 Agosto, 2005

TABLE OF CONTENTS

1 INTRODUCTION 22 HISTORY 43 EL GOLFO TODAY 54 MEXICAN LAW & YOU 75 HOW TO GET THERE 126 EL GOLFO’S BEST BETS 137 THE BEACH 168 THE BIOSPHERE 229 COLORADO RIVER ADVENTURES

10 MAP SECTION 2311 SPANGLISH TUTORIAL 2912 VOCABULARY 32

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IINTRODUCTION

Whether you’re a winter visitor, a casual visitor or just plain curious about El Golfo, this book is for you. Every year, 40 to 50 thousand of you, flock to these sunny climes in search of the wonderful weather and casual lifestyle. After a period of time, almost all of you become interested in Mexico (to one degree or another) yet because of serious misinformation, very few of you ever get to enjoy a visit. For most winter visitors, a trip to Mexico will be nothing more than a quick walk across the border at San Luis or Los Algodones to the nearest farmácia or dentista.

An increasing number of you however, are hearing about a little fishing village that sits on the northeastern shore of the Sea of Cortez (Gulf of California), less than a 100 miles from downtown Yuma, Arizona - EL Golfo. Many of you have searched for any factual official information and finding none, have had to rely on stories and hearsay and for the most part, misinformation. .

The purpose of this book is to provide you with correct and up-to-date information and hopefully to dispel any fears that you, as a first time visitor may have.

First and foremost, you must remove from your minds, the ridiculous ‘horror stories’ that we have all heard. For the most part, they are nothing but ‘old wives tales’ (apologies to all old wives), that have been passed down over the years, from person to person, embellished at each such passing, until the originators themselves, have passed beyond memory. It’s interesting that these stories all start the same way, “I heard from a friend of mine…” or “A buddy of mine told me about a friend of his…”. You never hear someone say, “It happened to me…” It distresses me that after living and traveling throughout Mexico for 15 years, I have never had the privilege of meeting or even seeing a ‘real-live’ bandito nor have I met anyone who has. Trust me, in Mexico, banditos are not skulking behind every boulder and the federales are not in the business of harassing tourists and you won’t be held for ransom, neither will you be shot, knifed or otherwise disposed of in the desert. It just doesn’t happen! Simply because Mexican people, for the most part are brown (varying degrees) and you don’t speak their language, doesn’t mean that they are bad people.

First of all, ‘Mexican’ is not a race, it’s a nationality. However, you’ll have trouble explaining that to a Mexican but it’s simply a fact. They consider all Americans and Canadians to be ‘norte americanos’, oblivious to the fact that Mexico itself is part of North America. The truth is that the ethnic roots of the people of Mexico come from all races and from every corner of the globe, just as in the U.S. and Canada. The tie that binds, of course, is their Spanish blood that originated with the conquistadors, their slaves, their priests and later from all parts of the new world. They are a people of mixed blood just as most of us are. For the most part Mexican people are an untraceable mix of indigenous native peoples along with Spanish,

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French, German, African, Chinese, Irish and a host of others, which makes them no different than hundreds of millions of the rest of us. Too many of us it seems, are unable to appreciate that there are others on this planet, who live out their lives in a manner quite different from our own. More importantly, we seem to have difficulty understanding, that these differences are only that - differences. They’re neither bad nor wrong. They are only different from what we might consider normal. There has proven no better cure for this malady than travel. Through travel we are able to develop an understanding and an appreciation of the way others choose to live and in so doing, we enrich ourselves.

When traveling to any foreign country, a ‘savvy’ tourist will always prepare in advance, by researching some of the cultural and legal differences to be encountered. When we visit any foreign country it is incumbent upon us, to not only be aware of the law but to abide by it.The legal and social system of modern day Mexico has been evolving since the first landing of the conquistadores, and just as in the United States its evolution continues to this day.

An interesting aside at this point, is that the first Thanksgiving in North America was celebrated in Northern Mexico by a group of hardy European settler-pioneers when they finally finally arrived at a place very near present day Dallas, Texas. This occurred some 100 years prior to other Europeans landing at Plymouth Rock. Sorry folks – we seem to write history to suit our own needs.

Continuing … It has served and continues to serve the people and the government of Mexico very well. If you consider that this nation operates on a tax base that literally pales by comparison to that of the United States or Canada, it seems a miracle that humanitarian and law enforcement services exist at all. However, exist they do and in many ways they are far superior to those that you will find north of the border. For example Mexican workers receive universal medicare, they have a pension plan, they can earn points through their work for home improvement or purchase. They receive triple time for overtime, they receive paid vacations and at Christmas time they receive a bonus of 15 days pay. To top it all off, there is virtually no personal income tax. A Mexican University education, by our standards, is virtually free and as a further incentive, top students receive free tuition. If we northerners looked around a little, before we tried re-inventing the wheel, we just might learn something.

Once Mexico City and Tijuana are removed from the equation, you’ll find that you’ll feel much safer, walking the streets of El Golfo at night, or any smaller Mexican community, than you do in most other North American towns or cities. Just reading the crime and violence statistics in your local newspaper and on TV, every day, should be all you need to put things into their proper perspective. Should you ever begin to feel that you’re being ‘hassled’ by having to conform to this regulation or that, or in your mind a certain licensing requirement just doesn’t make any sense, remember that there exist some fairly ‘dumb’ laws north of the border. As a matter of fact, there are ‘disgusting and de-humanizing’ laws affecting Mexicans

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who wish to visit the U.S.A. In fairness to the Canadian government, the laws, regarding visiting foreigners are much more civilized.

While it may be an over-simplification, it can be stated that, generally speaking the fabric of Mexican life is woven from two yarns, the family and the church. In Mexico, the importance of the immediate and extended family is paramount. To the extent that, still to this day most Mexican young people will remain in the home until they marry and quite often thereafter, not only caring for their elders but assisting with the families needs, whatever they might be. Mexican children are not kicked out of the house when they reach 18.

Mexican people by and large are devoutly religious and approximately 90% remain Roman Catholic but in recent years, through the evangelical efforts of other Christian denominations, there have been some changes. To the people of Mexico, religion is a serious business and not something to which one pays mere ‘lip-service’. Mexican boys have 3 sets of God parents the girls 4) one at baptism, another at first communion and another at confirmation. The girls receive a 4 th set at their quinceñera (a coming-out ceremony at 15 years of age). In Mexico, religion is very much a part of daily life and on any Sunday, all of the churches are full.

The stereotypical portrayal of a Mexican, lazing in the sun with a sombrero pulled over his face, is not only inaccurate, but it borders on bigotry. Remember, ‘Mexican’ is not a race. While it may be true that the Mexican way of doing things is somewhat different than what you might be used to, it’s really only a matter of perception. When we begin to understand their way of doing things, we can begin to understand, that for them, it makes sense. Nowhere, will you find more energetic or enthusiastic workers - once the decision is made that the endeavor is really worth undertaking. So what, if the old man takes all day to walk across town! The other side of town isn’t going anywhere and it isn’t going to change any if he walks faster – is it? And besides, he’ll have missed the pleasure of shootin’ the breeze with his compadres along the way, joking with the niños and quite literally stopping to smell the roses. Don’t be mistaken, if there’s a reason to hurry, he’ll hurry - but no Mexican person of my acquaintance would ever invent such a reason. Perception! The problem is, that a person’s perception is, for that person, reality. Obviously we must try and change our perception to reflect what is in truth, reality. With this book I will do my best to acquaint you with some of the more significant cultural differences and legal requirements that you should be aware of, when you visit El Golfo. It is my sincere wish that by reading it, at least some of you will make the journey and having done so, will come to a better understanding and appreciation of the warm and generous people, their culture and the places of this wonderful world that begins on your southern border.

IITHE HISTORY

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No book on travel would be complete, without at least a brief history of the area to be visited. Borrowing heavily from others, much more learned than myself, this promises to be brief.

During the Pleistocene age, severe faulting and volcanic activity along the San Andreas Fault, was creating havoc with the landmass along the length of Mexico. This ongoing and catastrophic activity, proved more than the land could bear. Some 10 to 15 million years ago an upheaval and faulting of unimaginable proportions lifted much of western Mexico and literally dumped it into the Pacific Ocean. The abyss created between the two land masses was immediately filled by the Pacific Ocean and the planet had given birth to a new sea and a new peninsula.

For hundreds of years this peninsula, known today as Baja California, was thought to be an island and a passage around the northern tip, into the Pacific was much sought after. Interestingly enough, there are maps of French origin, published as late as 1719 that clearly depict Baja California as just such an island, while the Spanish had discovered and kept secret, some 200 years earlier that it was in fact a peninsula of rather impressive proportions. In the early 1500’s Hernan Cortez had become beguiled by rumors of the fabled ‘seven cities of gold’, supposedly hidden by 7 bishops who had fled Spain following the Moorish conquest in 711 AD. He organized several exploration parties and sent them northward on the western shore of the Sea of Cortez. Mutiny, Indian problems and lack of provisions doomed these expeditions to failure and the possibility of a route through a northern passage, if one existed at all, remained a mystery. In 1538 Cortez mounted yet another exploration, this time at his own expense. Three vessels, under the captainship of Francisco de Ulloa, successfully sailed north to the mouth of the Colorado River. Upon reaching the estuary of the Colorado River, de Ulloa became convinced that because of the fresh water, further northward progression would prove futile and instead continued southward down the eastern shore of the sea. In so doing, Francisco de Ulloa and his crew became the first Europeans to circumnavigate the Sea of Cortez. More importantly, to this book, they became the first Europeans to ever ‘lay eyes’ on the white sandy beaches of El Golfo.

As recent as the mid 1920’s (before El Golfo was established) a small and little know port of activity flourished on the Colorado delta. Known as Santa Isabel, it was located some 8 miles west-northwest of present day El Golfo. It was a very strategic stopping off point for the many steam ships, which supplied the army and mining interests on the upper Colorado. Today Santa Isabel is nothing but a memory for a declining number of Golfeños. It was abandoned with the ‘state-side’ damming of the river with the subsequent drying up of the river delta, and today all traces of its existence have vanished. I have discovered only one (1) photograph and that is in the territorial prison museum in Yuma.

During the years of prohibition in the United States, El Golfo as it had become, became a ‘hot bed’ of activity in the illicit liquor trade. Many stories exist of mobsters visiting and partying in El Golfo during those days but none can be substantiated.

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For many years its 30 miles of flat, sandy beach have proven an ideal home for the fleet of fishing boats or pangas, unique to the area. Although the local fishery has declined drastically over the years, the number of pangas and fishermen is still on the rise. In truth, for the fishermen, the future is grim. Fishing in the area starts in mid September with the shrimp season, which ends in January then progresses through Corvina, Sierra (Spanish Mackerel), Chano and shark. When the fishing slows, then so does the economy of El Golfo. The people eke out an existence as best they can until September rolls around again. El Golfo is a small and quiet part of the world, where the local people, live their lives in quiet harmony with each other and with nature. They are not only content with who they are but also with what they have and they ask for little else. They will most certainly, ask nothing of you except a traditional handshake, a smile and of course your courtesy.

In 1929 the Mexican government expropriated a vast tract of land owned by an American named Ethan Allan Washburn, and the village of Santa Clara began to grow. In the early thirties, the State of Sonora provided funds for a road across the desert and by the mid 40’s with the increase in the price of shrimp the population began to boom as people flocked in from all parts of Mexico. The first official residents of El Golfo were the families of Alexandro Rodrigues (Dolores Cazares) from Sinaloa and Geronimo Lopez (Maria Cota) from Baja California. In 1935 they were joined by Ines Navarrete (Ramona Cazares), the sister of Maria. Many, many children, grandchildren, great grandchildren and great great grandchildren of these first families live in El Golfo to this day. The road from San Luis Rio Colorado was finally completed and paved in 1959. Work is now underway (finally) to construct a modern highway connecting El Golfo to Puerto Peñasco (Rocky Point) and points south.

III

EL GOLFO TODAY

El Golfo is not for everyone! If your vision of Mexico, includes luxury resort-style hotels, with modern amenities available at your every turn or whim, avoid El Golfo. If it includes ‘razzle-dazzle’ nightclubs, where the partying goes on all night and into the next day - avoid El Golfo. The list continues: 5 star restaurants; yacht charters; para-sailing; surfing; cocktails served on the beach by waiters in smart uniforms; receiving all of your services in English; being surrounded by fellow tourists speaking English. If any of these is, even part of your vision of Mexico, avoid El Golfo. Mazatlan, Cancun, Ixtapa and Cabo San Lucas are just a few of the resort destinations available to you at a reasonable cost. These resorts however, have little to do with Mexico and nothing whatsoever, to do with the culture of Mexico, it’s people or their lifestyle. Investing in one of these vacations, in an attempt to capture the flavor of Mexico, would be a serious waste of your money.

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Golfo de Santa Clara is a fishing village, where the gran desierto de altar sweeps right to the sea. It is a unique and a magnificent place! As a community it is very aware of itself, and generally speaking, has no pretensions and as few ambitions. Sadly, with a decline in the fishery and an increase in tourist dollars, these attitudes will soon change. The fishermen and their pangas will be shunted off to a far corner of the beach, never to be seen by tourists and the big money hotels and resorts will own the beach. The flavor of El Golfo will have been lost. Make no mistake, it will still be here but it will be totally transparent to the average tourist and few, if any will ever visit their neighborhoods and enjoy the ‘local’ flavor. San Felipe and Puerto Peñasco are perfect examples! Nice cities, certainly - but where did all the local people go?

The highway ends when you reach El Golfo. Recent funding has made possible the paving of the main intersection for a few blocks and a few streets in the center of the village. Rumor has it that more is to come and of that we can be certain. As of this writing, however, almost all streets and roads remain sand but are, for the most part, navigable by any type of vehicle. Those roads that you will discover reaching out beyond the town, rapidly become a bare perception and are best left to the ATV and 4X4 crowd. If you learn to love El Golfo, you’ll soon want one or both.To make life easier for you, all El Golfo businesses will accept U.S. dollars in smaller denominations. $100.00s are a no-no; some may on occasion accept $50.00 bills but 20’s are never a problem. Be prepared however to receive your change in pesos. If you’re going to be here for more than a day or two, invest in some pesos before you arrive. All the items in the store are marked and ‘rung’ up in pesos (this is Mexico after all). If you shop for items in pesos and pay in pesos it’s a lot easier to keep track of your change. There is no hint here that you will be cheated – you won’t, it’s just easier to keep track and besides it adds to the fun of the whole experience. There are no ATM machines, no banks and checks will not be accepted unless you are very well known by the business owner. Hotel/Restaurant Las Conchas does accept major credit cards and as of this writing is the only business that does.

El Golfo is a member community of the municipality of San Luis Rio Colorado, which city has the responsibility of providing all government services and does to this day. Due to its population (+ or – 4,000) El Golfo does not have a mayor or alcalde, rather it has an appointed delegado or delegate to the governing municipal body. He or she represents the community needs to the municipality and is also chief of police.

In terms of community services the village of El Golfo de Santa Clara boasts a government office, police station, gas station (with diesel), many grocery stores, tire repair shops, auto mechanic shops, welder, hardware stores, building supplies, 7 hotels and motels, 3 excellent restaurants, 2 beachfront cantinas serving excellent meals, taco stands galore, 3 pharmacies (1 with 24 hour emergency service), red cross outpost, 2 full service RV parks, many dry camp RV areas and 1 members only (CRA) RV resort.

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The state and federal governments provide the citizens of El Golfo and its visitors with, a medical clinic staffed by a licensed physician, as well as a reverse osmosis water purification plant. This water by the way is available to everyone, visitors included, for a nominal charge of 3 pesos per 5 gallons. The town also boasts a kindergarten an elementary school, a junior high and a preparatory (Sr. High), which provide the children of the village with a quality education through to University entrance. A police force and a detachment of Mexican Marines also call El Golfo home and contribute, in no small way to the peace and serenity of the area.

One word of warning: unless you enjoy the ‘spring-break’ atmosphere, avoid El Golfo on major American holiday weekends and especially during semana santa (the week before Easter). During these days and nights, El Golfo becomes what you might expect - crowded and noisy. Its beaches and surrounding dunes have become a mecca for the thousands of ATV enthusiasts who live near the border - Mexican and American alike. For the past 5 years, the actual count of vehicles entering the village during Easter week approached 35,000. By the way, there is a $2.50 charge for entering the town on these weekends. Having read this far, you might well ask, “well then, just what is waiting for me in El Golfo”? The answer is simple! Clear blue skies (every day), clean air, the inviting warm water of the gulf, soft sea breezes and lazy days under the sun on warm sandy beaches. The 30 miles of, virtually deserted beach, offer privacy, tranquility and peace of mind. The sand dunes adjacent to the beach are renowned as ‘beach buggy’ heaven. The waters just south of El Golfo are hailed by salt-water fishermen around the world. The Sea of Cortez, fondly known as ‘natures fish trap’, offers anglers over 80 species of fish and more of them, than in any other body of water on earth. You’ll enjoy excellent, secure accommodations together with fabulous seafood at reasonable prices. Enjoy casual walks through town or up and down the beach. Passing the time of day with local fishermen as they prepare their boats and nets for the coming day. They may at first appear ‘stand-offish’ but they’re not – just respectful of your privacy. You’ll be amazed how they will instantly warm to your offer of interest and friendship. Perhaps you’ll stop for a beer or soda, treat your taste buds with some shrimp, fish tacos, some carne asada or a torta at one of the beachside cantinas or in town. Finish off your day in paradise with a ‘sundowner’ at the hotel or at your RV, while you’re waiting for the coals on the grill to get ‘just right’. Experience an absolutely spectacular blaze of glory as the sun sets over the Sea of Cortez. Then perhaps, you’ll reminisce about your day! In town - the people, the ever-present music and laughter, the happy children. On the beach - the fun you had talking to the fishermen and practicing your español. The raucous, haunting cry of the sea birds and the silent grace of the pelicans as they patrol the shoreline in perfect formation. When you finally ‘tuck in’ for the night, you will no doubt have come to realize, just how simple and basic the whole experience is - therein lay the beauty that is El Golfo. If this is the Mexico of your dreams, El Golfo is waiting for you.

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IVMEXICAN LAW AND YOU

You can drive to Mexico! People who live on or near the border can be there in a matter of minutes - and very often are. This easy familiarity often creates a very casual attitude regarding Mexican law. Some people tend to view Mexico, at least in the border area, as their own back yard, and that all the rights they enjoy at home will mysteriously travel with them. Nothing could be further from the truth. Once you step, even one foot, inside Mexico, all of the rights that you hold dear, remain exactly 12 inches behind you. You’ve entered another country and now YOU are the foreigner.

Don’t misunderstand, as a visitor you do have rights, and in the unlikely event that you do find yourself in a bind, you will be able to seek protection under the law. Mexican law, not American! You should be prepared to prove that you and your property are legally in the country. If you cannot, it’s quite possible that you’re going to experience some degree of unpleasantness. The majority of the rumors, you may have heard about people being harassed in Mexico are usually cases of visitors not being prepared, treating the authorities with disrespect or displaying arrogance towards the authority. Police are police the world over, even the little things seem to bother them. Always remember! You are in Mexico and the people here are not obliged to learn or speak English.

Being prepared will require some effort on your part and while it may seem an unnecessary bother, the bother is well worth the effort. Simply because no one ever asks to see your papers, doesn’t mean that they’re not a legal requirement. Should that rare occasion ever arise, that you do need them, you are really going to need them. At that precise moment, (just like life insurance) if you don’t have them, they won’t be available at any price.

Many first time visitors to Mexico, will often have received assurances from well meaning friends, that insurance and other such documents are really not required this close to the border and only represent an unnecessary expense. If you ever receive this advice, suggest to your friend that perhaps he or she would like to provide you with a financial surety, in the event you do encounter any difficulties. You’ll find that they quickly move on to another subject.Mexican law is predicated on the Napoleonic Code. In a word, this means that persons deemed to have broken the law are guilty until proven innocent. If, for any reason travelers find themselves at odds with the law, they are required to prove to the authorities that they are financially responsible. Without such proof those persons may find themselves guests of said authority, while guilt or innocence is being established in the courts. This is done by your Mexican lawyer in front of a judge with you, probably not present. There is no such thing as a jury trial in Mexico, not even for the most heinous crimes. Under Mexican law, there is no such thing as an accident; accidents don’t just happen they are CAUSED by someone or something – and they are considered felonies. All parties to the incident are considered guilty until a judge determines otherwise. The legal process in Mexico takes time, so if you are considered a flight risk your lawyer will arrange for an amparo or bail. The thing to remember is to obey the law and the

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authorities – you will have no problem. The question of legal or not is usually common sense.

In recent years the government of Mexico, particularly the law enforcement branches, have undergone large-scale decentralization. For you the tourist, this means that the customs or immigration official, the policeman or the army officer that you’re speaking with, just might be the current local authority on what’s ‘going-down’ in this particular part of the world. It’s a very wise policy (to say nothing of good manners) to treat government officials, soldiers and police officers with courtesy. They are more often than not, highly regarded members of their communities and as such, are worthy of your respect and are used to being treated so. You will always find them to be polite and courteous towards you. INSURANCE It is a very little known fact but vehicle insurance became mandatory throughout Mexico in 1976; although virtually no one, except new car owners, has a policy. Accept in extremely rare cases, (too rare to even consider) your American or Canadian insurance policy is worthless in Mexico. Your own carrier won’t cover you and it will not be accepted as financial responsibility by the Mexican authorities, in the event you encounter difficulties. An insurance company licensed to do business in Mexico must cover your property. This includes anything that you may be driving or towing. Mexican law also dictates that there must be one licensed driver for every motor vehicle entering the country. That means that if your motor home is hauling a tow car behind, your companion should have a driver’s license. Mexican insurance can be purchased at many locations in Yuma or San Luis, Arizona and also as you cross the border into San Luis, Sonora or Los Algodones, Baja California and is generally a ‘rubber stamp’ procedure, requiring only a few minutes of your time. Mexican law dictates the price of such policies so don’t waste a lot of time looking for a better deal because you could spend more money on extras. If you buy in the U.S. however prices can vary, so shop around. Be prudent! Daily, weekly, monthly and annual policies are available for both casualty and liability. Most policies will only cover fixtures, which are permanently, mounted on your vehicles, therefore vandalism and parts theft, will seldom be covered. If you’re driving a motorhome or camper that will remain parked during your stay and at the same time, towing a smaller vehicle or boat that you’ll be using on a regular basis, your solution is simple. Purchase two policies, one to cover your ‘daily use’ equipment and another for your motorhome or trailer, with coverage for the dates that you’ll actually be on the road. Don’t be ‘conned’ by the agent anxious to sell you coverage on the parked vehicle for the full term. Find another agent!

TOURIST CARDS & VISAS You will hear people speaking of the ‘free zone’, that area in which you do not need vehicle importation forms or FMTs, being anywhere within 90 to 125 miles of the border. The Mexican consulate and the AAA assure me that it is only 25 kilometers (15.5 miles). While it is true that this ‘free zone’ includes all of Baja California and also Puerto Peñasco (Rocky Point), at this printing IT DOES NOT INCLUDE EL GOLFO. If you plan on being anywhere outside this zone (El Golfo) for more than 72 hours, or on traveling beyond the ‘free trade zone’, you are required to have

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one. Current cost for these ‘FMTs’ is $21.00 per person and they are valid for a period specific, up to 6 months and are available at the border (on the Mexican side) and at Mexican Consulates in the U.S.A. and Canada, where they are free. Standard I.D. requirements for these forms are 1 photo I.D. and a passport or birth certificate. You don’t pay the immigration official who gives you the form, but he will give you an unstamped form that you have to present to a Mexican bank usually no more than a 2 block walk from the border. Then you will have to return to immigration with the form stamped, paid. Many people drive down to the border and pick up their FMTs in advance of making the trip. This is a good idea because parking inside the border is at a minimum. The immigration office is almost always the first building on the right as you pass into Mexico.

If you wish to remain in Mexico for more than 6 months or even indefinitely, you’ll require a residence visa. These can only be issued by a Mexican Consulate and for Yuma residents, there is one conveniently located in Calexico, California. In addition to the standard I.D. required for a tourist card, a couple will need to provide proof of at least a $1,500.00 (US) monthly income, marriage documents and a police report indicating no criminal activity in their past. The consulate will then verify these documents, and after several weeks your visa will be issued. Bear in mind that none of these visas will allow you to work in Mexico or operate a business. A visa for that purpose, is quite another thing and beyond the scope of this book, but the place to start of course, is at any Mexican Consulate. All countries, even the U.S., have laws that require visitors, even citizens, to identify themselves. Why anyone would consider traveling to from and in a foreign country, without proper documentation and I.D. remains one of life’s great mysteries to me.

PERMITS AND OTHER CERTIFICATESNo one I know has ever applied for a vehicle permit to drive to El Golfo. Vehicle importation permits are required for vehicles, trailers or boats traveling to and from most parts of Mexico. Not one, of the many hundreds of people that I have encountered has ever had any difficulty, while traveling to El Golfo – but you can be asked. If you want or need one, you will require your registration and proof of ownership as well as a financial guarantee that the vehicle will be returning with you and not sold or otherwise disposed of in Mexico. This is usually accomplished with a credit card imprint that will be destroyed upon your return. The letter of the law actually requires that you also have permission from any lien holders, in order to take the vehicle into Mexico. It’s your decision – be prepared.

Pets may be taken with you but it is a good idea to have a document from your veterinarian, stating that your ‘critter’ is enjoying good health and has had the required shots.

Children and grandchildren may accompany you on your journey but the law requires that you have a notarized letter of authority, signed by both parents, as well as I.D. indicating the children’s nationality. If the child or children are the sole custody of only one parent, or when one parent is the primary

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caregiver only one letter is required but you will need legal verification of this status.

Fishing licenses are required. The sole exception is ‘surf fishing’ which does not require a license. Whether you bring your own boat, rent a panga or hire a guide, you need a license to be legal. If you do bring your own boat, it will also need a license. The federal government defines sport and other fishing regulations and they are extremely precise. It is sufficient to say that anyone (of any age) who is in possession of tackle, or simply in a boat that contains tackle, is deemed under the law to be a fisherman, and requires a license. More detailed information regarding fees etc. is covered in chapter 7.

It makes good sense to insure that the personal papers and travel documents of everyone in your group are in order and that everyone knows where they are. The peace of mind that comes from this preparedness will make the effort worthwhile. I recommend that you make up a ‘travel pouch’ and keep it in your vehicle at all times. It should contain, at least the following:

- passport- birth certificate

- letters of authority for children - veterinarians certificate

- residence information- next of kin information- vehicle/property insurance- vehicle registration/title- FMT/tourist card

U.S. & MEXICAN CUSTOMSMexican Customs presents no problems for the casual traveler to El Golfo. The Mexican government wants you to enjoy your stay in their country.

There is a precise amount of money that you can import into Mexico without authority. If you were discovered traveling with an inordinately large amount of cash, they’ll be curious about your reasons for having that much money in your possession. The legal limit is $9,999.99 U.S. dollars. Be aware that the U.S. government takes a rather keen interest in large sums of money leaving the country.

While there is virtually no limit to the amount of foodstuffs that you may bring into Mexico the same is not true for cigarettes, beer or other alcoholic beverages. One carton of cigarettes, 24 beer and one liter of spirits are the rule. You will find that American cigarettes are cheaper in Mexico as are spirits (except imported brandy and scotch whiskey) but beer is cheaper in the U.S. Get caught with more and you might lose it all – you’ll most certainly pay a large duty.

This seems like an appropriate time to discuss a one-time universal custom, still quite common in Mexico. I speak of the custom of mordita (little bite), or in plain English, the bribe. The mordita is officially illegal. Both the authorities and the general public detest the practice, knowing the harm it does to a visitor’s

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perception of their honesty. However when we consider that a transit policeman’s salary is $700 pesos ($67.00) per week, it’s not difficult to understand how he might be tempted to accept a little gift. Never try to bribe your way out of a serious situation without the services of a Mexican attorney. Never embarrass the authority by blatantly suggesting your bribe in front of others. No matter what you may think at the time, be very careful not to damage an official’s self-respect and dignity. Simply be aware that an offer of a ‘little something’ for the Mrs. or the kiddies, properly made, can often save you a world of grief.

For traffic offenses the correct procedure is for the officer to take possession of your driver’s licensed. You must then follow him or her to the nearest delegacion where you will receive your ticket and fine. Do not give the officer money on the highway unless you figure it’s the cheapest and quickest way out of the situation. It is illegal – but done!

One person of my acquaintance was stopped at a roadblock, with an empty beer can in his truck and ten cases in the back. He had only consumed the one since leaving the border at Los Algodones. But in this case, my friend was on his way in less than 15 minutes and with everyone’s dignity intact. All it cost was ‘eating a little crow’, a healthy dose of charm and a $50.00 ‘little bite’. Had this occurred in the U.S. or Canada it would have resulted in his beer confiscated, the cost of a lawyer, a court appearance, probably a suspension of driving privileges, a large fine, possible jail time and a ruined vacation. As I’ve mentioned before it’s all a matter of perception. Of course one can always be indignant and stand on principle. You can catch up to your group in a week or two, after you’ve done your jail time and paid the fines. Drinking in your vehicle is illegal in Mexico. Things are quite ‘lax’ in El Golfo but be aware, it is ILLEGAL. The major customs ‘no-no’ is almost any commodity that looks like it’s destined to become ‘for sale’. Large amounts of used clothing are especially suspicious, even though you are intending to donate them to a church or a needy family. This requires a permit from the intended recipient.

Importing firearms and/or ammunition into Mexico, whether intentional or unintentional is illegal. Please don’t even think about it. Until very recently the illegal importation of firearms into Mexico, was punishable by a minimum prison term of 8 years, not to mention a colossal fine that needed to be paid prior to your release. Of course your property would have been permanently confiscated as well. Recently the law has become slightly more relaxed. Now, if you are found in possession of a gun or ammunition, your property will still be confiscated but if you are judged innocent of criminal intent, you will be allowed to enter Mexico. You will however, be required to post a very significant financial guarantee from which your $800.00 fine will be deducted before you’re allowed to return to the U.S.

Illegal drugs and other controlled substances are still #1 on the ‘hit parade’. If you are the sort of person who just can’t get along without them, be prepared (if you are caught) to disappear from society for a very long and unspecified period of time. Suffice it to say, that by the time you see the light of day, you’ll be speaking English with a Spanish accent. Remember that in Mexican jails, all of your personal

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needs remain the responsibility of your family or friends – assuming of course that they’re allowed to stay in or return to Mexico. U.S. Customs, on the other hand, is very interested in those items, which you bring back into the U.S. from Mexico. The most common items of concern are as follows:

- Each person, over the legal age, is allowed only 1 liter of alcoholic beverage

(including beer) and 1 carton of cigarettes, once every 30 days. - Each person is allowed a 1 month supply of prescription medicine (with prescription) once per month.

- Each household is allowed 25 kilograms of shrimp (in season) or fish once per month. Many fruits and vegetables are not allowed (check with customs beforehand). Fireworks and firearms are taboo.

- Any and all pork products (except shelf-stable canned). - Uncooked chicken and uncooked eggs.

The above list represents only a small sample of the laws governing those items that may be imported into or returned to the U.S. from Mexico. If you have concerns, always check with U.S. customs before you enter Mexico – the laws do change, from time to time.

VHOW TO GET THERE

Hopefully by now, you’ve decided to make the trip. You should know that there are various routes, by which you may travel to El Golfo. One of them (MAP #1) has you crossing the border at Calexico/Mexicali. From there you head south to Durango, then east to the town of ‘57’ where you join Sonora 003 and head south to El Golfo. Another (MAP #2) has you crossing at Los Algodones (9 miles west of Yuma) heading south for 20 miles on the Mexican side of the Rio Colorado then taking Mexico 2 to a point just over the toll bridge, then taking a by-pass road around downtown San Luis. This puts you onto Sonora 003 and on into El Golfo. The third has you crossing at San Luis, Sonora (MAP #3) crossing through town and joining up with Sonora 003 then south to El Golfo.

MEXICALI/DURANGO/COLONIAS NUEVAS(57)/EL GOLFODriving through Mexicali is ‘hair raising’ enough in a car, let alone while hauling a trailer ordriving a motorhome. Personally I wouldn’t do it. If you feel that you must, here are the directions.

When you cross the border, you will be on Boulevard Lopez Mateo. Follow this road straight south, staying in the right-hand lane as best you can. Being, always on the alert for parked cars on the right hand side. Follow the signs guiding you to San Felipe and stay on this highway until you reach the turn-off to your left (east) for

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Durango and Algodones (about 23 miles). At this junction, you must drive about 50 yards past the turn off and then perform an ‘engineered’ U-turn, which takes you north again to the Durango road. See the insert in the map for details. Follow this road passing through several villages. Watch for stop signs and serious speed bumps (topes). Shortly after you cross over the river, a sign will indicate that you have reached Colonias Nuevas. At the main intersection take a left and cross over the railways tracks. You have now left the State of Baja California and are in the town of Luis B. Sanchez, Sonora more affectionately known as cincuenta siete (fifty- seven to gringos) because the railway station here is 57 kilometers from the railhead in Mexicali. Follow the street through town (stop signs on every corner) until you reach the junction at Sonora 003. Turn right onto this highway and in an hour, you’ll be in El Golfo.

LOS ALGODONES/ELGOLFO This route is very popular with those ’in the know’. First, it’s a really easy crossing point into Mexico and secondly, it gets you into Mexico faster – that appeals to a lot of us. During the winter season (snowbird time), it’s important to cross the border before 8:00 AM, as people waiting to enter the Quechan Indian parking lot on the U.S. side, can cause traffic to back up all the way to I8. You should exercise extreme caution while driving through Los Algodones because for 6 months of the year, during the winter, over 10,000 tourists a day walk across the border. These folks literally own the streets (at least they think they do), and display almost total disregard for the vehicular traffic. Once you’re out of the downtown and tourist area however, driving in Mexico is like anywhere else, except perhaps New York, Montreal, Paris or Mexico City.As you enter the town, you’re on 2nd street. Drive straight through the intersection at Avenue A (after stopping of course) and proceed to Avenue B. Turn left at this intersection and drive one short block to the top of the hill. Turn right and drive straight ahead for about 1 mile, being alert for serious speed bumps (topes), in front of the school on your left. When you arrive at the T intersection, turn left onto Baja California 002 and you’re on your way to San Luis.

After 17 miles you will reach the junction of Mexico 002. Turn left onto this highway and follow it until you pass through the toll bridge (not expensive). As soon as you pass through the tollbooth, if you’re not already in it, get into the curbside lane, because you have to take the first exit on the right. There’ll be a sign for El Golfo de Santa Clara on the side of the road and you’ll turn right off of the highway. Continue south on this road for 1.9 miles, at which point you’ll reach an intersection with a sign indicating that Colonia Hidalgo is straight ahead, and to your left is San Luis Rio Colorado. Make a left turn at this corner and follow this road, (you’ll think your lost but you’re not) for about a mile, up to the main highway. This highway is Sonora 003, turn right onto it and follow it 60 miles south to El Golfo.

SAN LUIS/EL GOLFOProbably the most preferred route. As you approach the border move into the right hand lane. All buses, trailers etc., are required to use this lane for inspection purposes. This inspection is required, quite regularly – almost always, however it’s not a big deal. If you are not inspected, a green light will usher you on through.

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Stay on this street for 3 blocks until you reach a T-junction. This is Avenida Benito Juarez. Turn left onto it for 1 short block, in the right hand lane. At this next corner, turn right onto calle 2 and drive across town to Constitucion. Turn right onto Constitucion and follow it 60 miles to El Golfo.

If you get red lighted as you attempt to cross, follow directions into the customs area. You will be briefly questioned as to what you are bringing into Mexico , where you are going and for how long. As you leave the compound take your first right hand turn onto 2nd street (calle dos) and travel across to Constitucion and proceed as above.

VIEL GOLFO’S BEST BETS

The many businesses of El Golfo provide their customers with most amenities that one could wished for, but due to size restrictions, this book only highlights the landmarks – you’ll have a lot more fun exploring for yourself and for that purpose a map is included. A visit to any of these, will guarantee you good value as well as good service. Not that you won’t receive value and service at other establishments; there are just too many to mention.

While I’m on the subject, the belief that living in Mexico is cheap is a FALLACY. Mexican people pay much more for everyday commodities than we do ‘on the other side’ and their wages are about a tenth of ours. For example, many restaurant workers are grinding out 6 days a week for 40 or 50 dollars. The custom of tipping for good service is the same in Mexico as it is in the U.S. The propina or tip is never included in the cost of a meal or service, so a tip of at least 10% is customary. 15% shows class! Don’t begrudge a tip in El Golfo, you are REALLY helping a worthy family make ends meet.

When you’re exploring around town or on the beach, try being a little adventurous. If you see people ‘gulping down the goodies’ at a puesto or roadside stand - go for the gusto! Street vendors offer some surprisingly good fare. Many local people, especially single men, will eat 2 meals a day at the stands. My own family will go out for a treat of tortas, tacos or carne asada at least twice a week.

If it’s not a holiday weekend, you may be surprised by the lack of activity in the town. Don’t be put–off, El Golfo comes alive after 8:00 pm. During the day, you might think that there’s no one alive in the town and at 9 in the evening you can walk on the heads of the people. Bye the way, the use of the word ‘gringo’ is not necessarily a derogatory term. It really depends on the speaker and why the word is used. In fact it simply refers to anyone, regardless of race or nationality, who was not born in Mexico. Don’t be offended if you hear it, even Mexican-Americans can be referred to as gringos or pochos by the locals.

HOTEL LAS CONCHAS (hotel, restaurant)This once grand family vacation home, has re-discovered itself in tourism. Ramón Concha, a successful San Luis businessman, together with his wife Esperanza, have

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worked tirelessly converting what was once a home for their extended family, into a thoroughly modern hotel and restaurant. Hotel Las Conchas is located right on the beach, and at high tide the water will even reach the front patio area. It’s conveniently located 2 blocks from downtown and shopping. Currently there are 12 double rooms, each with queen size beds, large bathrooms with shower and hot water, as well as air conditioning. For their guest’s convenience, a pay telephone is also available and they accept credit cards – the only business in town to do so.

The restaurant has become one of the most popular dining spots in town. They are open 7 days a week and non-hotel guests are always welcome. All items on the full menu are carefully prepared under the watchful eye of Esperanza herself. Fresh caught seafood is a specialty of the house, and the American style breakfasts are superb.

If you’re a first time visitor, hotel is a must. Not only will you be hosted by two of the most gracious and fun loving people in town but your experience will be a guaranteed success. The room rates are very reasonable but reservations are always advised. Phone 011-52(653)515-7001

VILLAS DEL SOLThis hotel is the newest addition to our landscape. I haven’t had the opportunity to meet the owners yet but the offer many rooms for rent and from all reports they are quite nice with the usual amenities.

A recent renovation, has added a bar and disco to the facility, which is open on the weekends until 2 am each morning.

This Hotel also rents ATVs but exclusively to its registered guests. Phone 011-52(653)515-7180

NUEVO MOTEL EL GOLFOOwned by Raul Agraz who came to us 9 years ago from Puerta Vallarta, where he was very involved in the tourist industry. Motel El Golfo has 9 rooms with all facilities, as well as several spaces for RV parking. Also for rent are 4 permanently set-up trailers. The central focus of the facility is a shaded outdoor dining area (restaurant) under a floral arbor.

Raul is fluently bi-lingual and is a very useful contact, especially if you’re interested in acquiring property in the vicinity.

Reservations are not usually required but you should make for the big holiday weekends. Their phone number is 011-52 (653) 515-7071

MOTEL MARCIALocated right in the heart of the village. Around the corner to the police station, across the street from the Catholic church and adjacent to the OXXO store and pharmacy. This motel offers 20 rooms, all equipped with air conditioning. Once again, reservations are not generally needed. This motel does not have a

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restaurant but is an easy walk to 2 of the best. Room rents are reasonable and its central location, make it a good bet for the first time visitor. 011-52(653)515-7040

MOTEL ANGULOAlso located close to the village center, this motel offers basic rooms at reasonable rates. No restaurant but only 1 block from lots of eating opportunities. 001-52(653)515-7005

MOTEL LAS DUEÑASLocated 1 block off the main street leading to beach access roads but ¾ of a mile from town. All rooms have air conditioning. 011-52(653)515-7075

EL CAPITAN Without doubt, El Capitan remains the single most identifiable establishment in town. It’s a large, covered, open-air facility with a shaded porch on which you can enjoy your refreshments and soak up the beach view. Owner Teresa Brown is more than maintaining the old traditions. Teresa’s is bi-lingual and her dynamic personality and friendly staff, ensure that El Capitan is still the place to have lunch and a beer, play a game of pool or just sit back and take in the view. On holiday weekends it’s very often the place to be.

Available to its patrons, are shaded areas for parking RVs (no hookup), camping, bathroom and shower facilities, great food and several brands of soda and local beer. NO PHONE

EL DELFIN Until 1999, El Delfin was the only sit down, full service restaurant in El Golfo. Even today it should still be a must on your list for dining out. El Delfin’s specialties are of course seafood but a full menu of breakfast, lunch and dinner dishes are offered, including some excellent American fare. El Delfin is open Tuesday through Sunday but closed on Monday.

LAS CABINASLocated right on the beach, Las Cabinas has recently been leased by the owner of Villas Del Sol. He has made many changes, both in the facility as well as management style. They have a very nice cantina with surprisingly good food. They offer beach-front palapas for your RV, tent or camper. Some are equipped with 100volt electricity for lighting and of course there are showers and bathroom facilities available. Also, they offer several rooms for rent, adjacent to the cantina.

ESTRELLA DEL MARThis is another new facility and right on the beach. What used to be a cantina has been converted into 5 beachside rooms. Owned by local entrepreneur Raul Agraz the rooms are rustic but comfortable. Washrooms and shower facilities are available. Raul also has lots of dry camp parking for your RVs and other beach toys. The great thing about Estrella del Mar is that it is ‘smack-dab’ on the beach. Plans are underway for a family area and gift shop.

EL GOLFO RV BEACH RESORT

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Formerly (and still, to the locals) known as El Pionero, this full service RV resort is available to members only. It is a member property of the Colorado River Adventures chain of resorts. It offers its members, full service hook ups, swimming pool, restaurant, games area and clubhouse. During the winter season the park is full and a host of activities are enjoyed but during the summer everything is closed except the pool. Membership information is available from the park manager. 011-52 (653) 515-7144

EL GOLFO RV PARK This park has 12 spaces for RV, tent and campers, all with full hook up. It’s located on the right just before you leave the pavement. There are some shady areas and it’s very close to town, shopping and restaurants. Reservations can be made with the manager but only in person.

IMPORTANT DATES TO REMEMBERThe following list of dates indicate local festivities, parades and street dances.

- variable semana santa week leading up to Easter- 1 May dia del trabajo- 10 May dia de las madres monster dance (mothers only)- 23 May dia del estudiante parade- 1 June dia de la marina queen crowned & street dance- 12 August Virgen de Santa Clara street dance- 15 September fiestas patrias aka grito de dolores (parade)- 16 September independencia parade- 1 November todos santos- 20 November dia de la revolucion mexicana parade - 3 – 12 December Virgen de Guadalupe religious parades daily

VIITHE BEACH

DRIVING ON THE BEACHThe single most outstanding feature of El Golfo is of course the beach, and if you’re like most visitors, sooner or later (probably sooner) you’ll want to get out there and do a little exploring. After all, there’s 30 miles of it, and all of it drivable. But I say that with some reservation.

The first thing you’ll notice when you ‘hit’ the beach, is vehicles of every make and model, scurrying up, down and around with apparent ‘gay abandon’. You’ll see everything from ATV’s to town cars, and you’ll probably ask yourself, if it’s safe for you to be out there too. The answer, of course, is yes but bear in mind, when it comes to driving on sand, some drivers are quite a bit more knowledgeable than others. Many people, inexperienced in the techniques, more often than not, find themselves buried to their axles and at the mercy of a rising tide. Now that’s not necessarily a big deal - as long as you’re within shouting distance of a local fisherman, who’ll quite happily pull you out for 20 bucks – or so. If you’re lucky, he’ll even hang around to make sure you don’t get stuck again. But unless you get

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a ‘kick’ out of making repeated donations to the local economy; preparing yourself in advance, with a little sand-driving know-how, makes a lot of sense, and will keep you out of most unpleasant situations.

Before we even start let’s consider some emergency equipment. The smart beach explorer always carries at least 2 such pieces of equipment. First is a good shovel and the second is a stout length of rope or a tow strap. If you really want to be safe, equip yourself with a good winch along with a decent length of rebar to drive into the sand and to hook onto. Finally, never, I repeat never venture down the beach without water. Remember, while you might be at the seashore, you’re also in the Sonoran desert and if you get stuck you could be waiting a long time for help. There’s really no question, which vehicle is the ideal one for driving on the beach - in sand period. Most experts have agreed that a 4 cylinder, standard transmission, 4x4, fitted with smooth, oversized tires with 10-15 lbs of air pressure, is the perfect street vehicle for use on the beach.

Human nature being what it is, it’s not surprising, that you won’t see too many of these. When you do though, you’ll never see them bogged down. They’ll usually be far too busy pulling their high-powered friends out of ruts, deep enough to bury beached whales. The why of the above statement is as follows. First of all, power can be your enemy. Nothing is going to dig you in deeper, than an engine with so much power that even at the idle, the revs can’t be kept below 4,000. They’re great for the drag strip but definitely not ‘beach-friendly’.

Most drivers also find that the convenience their automatic transmissions provide for city driving will often prove to be anything but convenient on the beach. This marvelous invention has the ‘uncanny’ knack of shifting down, at just the precise moment, when sudden deceleration and increased rpm’s are the last thing you’re hoping for. Always remember, that your goal is to stay on top of the sand, and unless you can maintain forward momentum, that’s not going to happen.

The tires on your vehicle are of paramount importance. When it comes to staying on top of deep sand, the weight distribution of your vehicle becomes, even more important than its forward motion. Without it there’ll be no motion at all. Basic physics tells us, that the more resistance the vehicle presents to the sand, the more difficulty it will have sinking into it. So if the weight of your vehicle is distributed over a wider area, by using wider tires, then a far greater resistance is presented to the sand. If wider tires aren’t an option for you, then you should simply ‘air down’. The single most important technique of sand driving is the practice of airing down. This is by far, the most common practice of veteran beach drivers. Quite simply, you let some air out of your tires. Lowering of the air pressure increases the tires profile, presenting a much wider surface and resistance to the sand. It’s quite normal to ‘air down’ to 15 lbs, even 10 lbs for emergencies, without damage to the tires. Just remember to ‘air up’ before you hit the pavement. Most people I know, ‘air down’ as soon as they arrive, and don’t ‘air up’ again until they leave.

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The popular ‘paddle tires’, that you’ll often see on ATV’s are specifically designed for digging in and ‘get up and go’, and that’s precisely what they do, often when you don’t want them to - and on hard packed sand the ride’s a real kidney killer. Besides our subject is a street vehicle equipped for beach driving and you’d be hard pressed to fit your truck with paddle tires. Also you should remember that the police in the village frown on their use on public roads. People have been ticketed. The preference for a 4x4 is an obvious one, but it’s not an absolute must. As long as you’ve got everything else taken care of, and you follow some common sense ‘rules of the road’, you should have no problems. If you feel, you need some assurance of this, just take a look at the trucks used by the local fishermen. Very few of them are 4x4s; yet they literally own the beach, and just to make it difficult for themselves, or to humble us gringos , they’ll more often than not, have a 3,000 lb boat hanging off the back end.

TIP #1 Take a few short trips before striking out on your own.TIP#2 When you’re not sure, always drive in someone elses tracks,

preferably those of a local fisherman.TIP#3 Don’t exceed 25 miles an hour, you’ll enjoy it more, to say

nothing of the safety of the people trying to enjoy the beach.TIP#4 Avoid shifting gears in deep, dry sand. Rather maintain your RPM

with clutch and gas.TIP#5 Maintain straight-line driving in deep sand.TIP#6 When starting again, from a full stop; back up a little first –

there’s a nice track behind you.TIP#7 When you find yourself miles from any possible assistance (in the

event that you need it), always drive above the high tide line.TIP#8 Read the tracks in front of you. They tell the whole story. Learn

to tell the difference between quads, sand rails and pick-ups. There might be a 6 foot high cut-bank over the crest of the next, seemingly gentle rise.

TIP#9 Try to drive with a group. At least always tell someone where you’re going and how long you expect to be.

TIP#10 Before each trip, be aware of time and tide. In places the tide reaches up the face of the cliff and you could be cut off from your return for a long time.

With your vehicle properly outfitted and with the above tips in mind, your beach driving should be both enjoyable and trouble free, and without doubt, you’ll have added an entirely new dimension to your El Golfo vacations.

30 MILES OF BEACHAll of the beach from El Golfo the lighthouse at Bahia Adair is easily navigable by ATVs and 4X4s. Even 2 wheel drive vehicles can make the trip but unless you are truly and expert, don’t risk it. The trip from El Golfo to the first point is easy and uneventful, you will pass the famous machoro (first light house) also known as

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competition hill and then onto the point. Be very careful accessing this first point. Just before you arrive at the point, there is large tidal area of dark sand that looks like it’s great for driving. Do not! I repeat do not attempt to cross this area. About half way across, it turns into pure mud and you will lose your vehicle. Beyond the point lies the now defunct, shrimp spawning laboratory of Maratech Industries. There is also a small Army outpost as well as to some of the private beach houses further on down. You’re advised to keep your speed at about 20 mph and watch for deep washes that are often created by tidal run off. These can ‘pop up’ out of nowhere. They can also be quite deep and driving into one at any speed will spell disaster and put a real damper on your trip - to say nothing of your enthusiasm for beach travel. You’ll find that the fishermen have found a way around these washes, so always keep a look out for their tracks.

At about 15 miles further on, you’ll notice the road leaves the beach again and leads you through an area of clumpy bushes and small trees. I’ve never driven on the beach in this area, and since all fishermen use this route, I’ll continue to stick to this ‘by-pass’ and you’ll be advised to do the same. At least until somebody walks out there and checks it out. You’ll see a lot of different tracks going through this area, so keep to the one that seems to be getting the most use - they all end up in the same place.

Once you leave this area the track leads back onto the beach. Stick to the dry area on this stretch because there is a seriously muddy tidal channel between you and the sea. Within a mile you’ll have reached the fishing village of El Tornillal (tornee-yahl). El Tornillal is nothing more than several acres of private property that the owner has turned into a fishing and vacation village. Many Americans lease property here (quite reasonably) and have established beach houses for themselves. Most are vacationers, but one couple of my acquaintance, lived here for several years. The main track off the beach is a deep one, but if you’ve made it this far, you can negotiate it. But unless you’re looking for the owner to inquire about property, (he’s right at the end of the road) there’s no reason to leave the beach.

There’s a road that takes off behind this property, and winds it’s way through the desert and hills back to El Golfo. Actually, recent ‘drug interdiction’ activity by the Army is creating many new tracks through the desert. Some should provide for interesting 4x4 trips and descriptions of them will appear in future editions of this guidebook. Once you leave Tornillal you’ll find that the sand becomes whiter and the water becomes clearer, and it stays that way, all the way to Panama - and beyond, I’m sure. There are many beautiful beaches further on and views to enjoy. You’ll encounter no more beach houses along the way - only solitude. There is a track from this point on the beach, which will take you up through an abandoned salt mining area and onto the railway track. Once you’re on the railway right-of-way, you can follow the service road right on into Puerto Peñasco. I know a local man who actually makes the entire round-trip in 1 day, in a 2-wheel drive car. From Las

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Salinas as this place is known, there is a road leading back to El Golfo through the desert. To reach it, you must cross the salr flat, very near the abandoned residences, and continue right.

At low tide, a 2 mile long reef is exposed and they make for excellent shell fishing, not to mention the pleasure of swimming or ‘snorkeling’ in the crystal clear water of the tidal pools. Adjacent to this reef is the area known as burascoso and you’ve reached the end of the line.

Just beyond this point is the lighthouse. To get to it and beyond you must cross a ‘serious’ estuary, across which, vehicular traffic is ONLY possible during extremely low tides. Naturally, there are those who regularly make the trip when the tide is extremely low. Be extremely careful here and do not try to drive around the estuary – you absolutely will lose your vehicle. Also, if you get stuck crossing it, when the tide comes in, it is a raging river and once again, you will lose your vehicle. My best advice is, don’t try. Ahead of you lies the Bahia de Adair (Adair Bay) and across it, about 25 miles in the distance is the fishing and resort city of Puerto Peñasco. Even though it is known far and wide as Rocky Point, the correct translation of its Spanish name is Rock Port – not point.

WATER ACTIVITIESSevere tidal action crossing the shallow beaches of El Golfo often create, what appears to be, less than perfect water conditions. The water’s ‘clean’ of course, it’s just that it sometimes gets a little silty, and you’ll notice that when this silt occurs, very few people are ever deterred from enjoying the water. The further down the beach you go, the clearer the water becomes.Except during periods of high wind, the water is quite calm, with a total absence of the surf conditions commonly seen on other beaches. These shallow, tranquil waters are perfect for jet skis and other such watercraft and the area is becoming very popular with these enthusiasts. During periods of low tide many folks will lounge and play in the much warmer waters of the tidal pools and channels. Children can always be seen chasing minnows and crabs and splashing around for hours, in these ‘monster’ bathtubs. On the other hand, high tide is when most older folks go for a swim, largely to save themselves a ¼ mile walk out to the waters edge. Many people swim all year, but it’s really not comfortable for most of us until about the first of March and it will continue this way through to November. Typical water temperatures during the summer season are in the mid 80’s, but temperatures of 93 degrees are not uncommon.

Scuba diving and snorkeling are a waste of time in El Golfo. The sea bed is pure sand with no rock or reef formations to invite feeding fish etc. In the area known as burascoso, there is an extensive reef, which invites experienced divers. The currents are very strong and the reef is composed of jagged rock formations, both of which could spell disaster for the inexperienced.

CAUTION: When you’re wading and swimming further on down the beach, you should be very alert for stingrays. These flat, bottom dwelling relatives of the shark have a tendency to sleep in the warm shallow water, either partially or completely covered by sand. If you’re jabbed by one of these nasty fish you should

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get to the clinic immediately. The pain from their sting is excruciating and other complications are always a possibility.

CLAM DIGGINGFirst of all, you’re going to need a ‘seriously’ low tide, (in the order of -4 to -6 feet), which will usually occur during periods of a new and a full moon. Tide calendars (calendario de mareas) are available at Hotel Las Conchas for a small charge, or you can check the chart at El Capitan’s. Limit your search from an hour before and an hour after low tide, and to that damp stretch of beach bordered by the water and the dry sand. The banks of the tide channels are good hunting grounds. To prevent a nasty cut (sharp shells and spines) the use of a digging tool is recommended, but not necessary. The clams are in nice clean sand and their only about 6 inches under, or less.

Now you have to know what to look for. If you’ve never done this before, you can trust me; clams don’t dig into the sand in advance of your shoveling efforts. It’s always amusing to watch novices, frantically digging away at every hole in the beach, as if it was a race, and they’re losing. Understanding, that all creatures living under the sand, at one time or another make a hole, is crucial to minimizing your efforts. Trust me, not all holes are made by clams and knowing which is which, will make your search a lot easier and more fruitful.

The reason a lot of folks have the impression that the clam they’re ‘chasing’ is digging itself deeper into the sand, is simply because there’s no clam there in the first place. Clams don’t move–well they do, but for the most part, it’s at the whim of tidal action. If there’s a clam under that little hole, it will have left a tell-tale ‘signature on the sand and knowing which signature is which will be the key to your success.

Normally, clams remain completely covered by water, but occasional tidal extremes will remove that cover, and you’ll find them high and dry – just for the picking. While they’re covered with water they feed by taking in seawater, ingesting the nutrients and then spitting the water back out. When the tide leaves them high and dry, this feeding of course comes to a grinding halt. When this happens, the clam will still have some water in his shell and if he does, he’ll spit it out onto the sand, leaving a hole and its telltale ‘signature’ for all to see. No spit marks around the hole – no clam!

If you’ve never seen this ‘calling card’ in the sand, here’s how to make one for yourself. Simply dip your hand in the water and then ‘flick’ your wet fingertips toward the damp sand and you’ll notice it makes a distinctive ‘spotting’ mark. Of course the marks made by clams, will usually be a straight-line pattern (from the hole outward) but this is the mark that you’re looking for. You may not see them at first but just walk the beach very slowly, focusing your eyes on the area at your feet, not in front of you. When you do find a ‘spit pattern’ follow it for a few inches, back from the larger droplets to the smaller and you’ll be at or very near the hole. Having offered all of the above, I know that you’ll find clams and in abundance. Please keep only those large enough to eat and only those you’re going to eat.

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The area in front of El Pionero, the CRA resort, is a good bet for clams. They tend to be smaller but they are abundant and good. They are in sand, so let them stand in water for a few hours and they’ll purge themselves. Another spot that’s proven fruitful is the area about 2 miles down the beach from El Pionero to a spot just past the abandoned cantina on the left (Playa Alacran). This large tidal flat is usually not very safe for driving, and I urge caution unless you see good solid tracks across it. Keep high and dry on the beach and walk. FISHINGThere is very little sport fishing adjacent to El Golfo. The Sea bottom is pure sand and mud and as such offers very little habitat for the fish. Further down the beach (about 20 miles or so) the fishing improves markedly with lots of reefs and rocky outcroppings. There are a few people who frequently take visitors on all sorts of water-oriented activities. They use pangas (local style fishing boats) equipped with outboard motors. They’ll take you fishing, clamming (to the island) or whale and dolphin watching.

Anglers love the Sea of Cortez. There are over 80 species of game fish in the Sea of Cortez and many of them prefer the northern waters, not the least of which is the 250 lb totoava. This relative of the sea bass is an extremely protected species, but catch and release with one of these monsters just has to be ‘a thing of beauty and a joy forever’. Other fish offering great sport are corvina, sierra (spanish mackerel), sea bass, croaker, triggerfish, lenguado, shark and the list goes on. Anglers are allowed a bag limit of 10 fish per day with only 5 of any one species, while only 1 marlin, shark, sail fish or sword fish may be kept and will count as 5 of any other species.

Angling from the beach (surfcasting) does not require a license, but all other forms do, and that includes underwater fishing, which has its own bag limit of 5 fish, as well as other restrictions. When angling from a boat, each person is allowed only one rod in the water at any given time and all people in the boat require a license, regardless of age. That includes folks who are just along for the ride. If you’re fishing from your own boat, the boat will also need to be licensed for sport fishing. All necessary permisos (licenses) are available in El Golfo at reasonable cost. The office of the Secretaria de Pesca (secretary of fisheries) is right around the corner from the Oxxo store. They’re only open, Monday through Friday, so if you’re coming for the weekend, you should pick one up before you leave the U.S. Their office in San Diego can be reached at (619) 233-4324. Bear in mind, all of the above regulations are “the letter-of-the-law”. Few people purchase licenses and fewer still are ever checked but if you are checked, you will wish that you went to the trouble.

Some fishing violations are:* keeping alive any fish for ornamental purposes. * financial gain from the product of sport fishing.* collecting corals, sea anemones, snails or shells.

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* fishing within 250 meters, or less, of swimmers.* use of artificial lighting to attract fish.* to filet fish aboard the vessel.

VIII

THE BIOSPHERE

When first discovered the Colorado River Delta extended over two million acres, an area roughly the size of Rhode Island. At that time beaver, Jaguar, and deer abounded along with the giant totoava (cousin to the pacific sea bass) and a myriad of other species of shrimp, fish and waterfowl. Today 91 of these species are on the federal endangered list and of that number, 67 are listed as ‘at risk’. Today only saline agricultural drainage supports the Cienega through drainage canals and with 20 dams along the Colorado, very little if any river water ever reaches the Sea of Cortez.

By 1944 this fertile and lush wetland had diminished to, on average only 85,000 acres. This same year, Mexico secured rights, through a treaty with the United States, for 1.5 million acre/feet of the rivers average annual flow of 7.5 million acre/feet. Unfortunately, the treaty did not deal with the quality of the water, only the quantity and by the time the water reached Mexico it was so toxic that the farmer’s crops withered and died.

31 years later, in 1973 the U.S. government decided to re-route this saline agricultural drainage away from the river and send it through canals to an unused and barren part of Mexico’s Colorado delta. This was supposed to be a stop-gap measure while a de-salination plant was to be built near Yuma, after which the newly freshened water could be re-routed back into the river and sent on to Mexico. A nice idea in theory and everyone thought that it was a good one. However it took 19 years to build the plant and in 1992 it was ready to go on-line.

No one had foreseen what would happen during those 19 years. A miracle took place. That miracle was the ‘greening’ of the Colorado River delta. Without assistance or planning from anyone or any agency over 50,000 acres of dusty, salt-encrusted barrens had transformed itself into cattail wetlands and brackish-water marsh. The Cienega was alive and well once again. Today this wetland extends over 150,000 acres – the largest in North America. It’s a far cry from 2,000,000 but today it supports over 60,000 waterfowl and at least 160,000 shorebirds.

In 1993 by the Mexican Government established Upper Gulf of California/Colorado River Delta Biosphere Reserve, more commonly the Cienega or biosphere. From El Golfo you can hire local fishermen to guide you to the cienega to fish for large mouth bass or watch for the endangered vaquita, a small dolphin which is indigenous to the northern Sea of Cortez or birdwatch and just enjoy the trip. You can also drive north from El Golfo (about 50 miles) to the village of Luis Encinas Johnson, where guides are also available to take you to picnic and fishing areas on the cienega. Palapas for shade and canoes for rent make this a perfect opportunity for a family outing.

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IX

COLORADO RIVER ADVENTURES

CRA is an Arizona Corporation owned by 4 individuals who have known each other since childhood. Together they have been in business with one another for over 30 years.

CRA began in 1972 at Buckskin State Park as a concession of the BLM and has grown to become the largest concessionaire of state parks in the state of Arizona. CRA acquired its first privately owned RV resort in 1979 and today operates 15 parks both public and private. Today CRA, as a membership camping organization, services over 11,000 members.

CRA owns and operates RV resorts at:

- EMERALD COVE 6 miles north of Parker, AZ on the California side.- NORTH SHORE Needles, California- LAKE HAVASU Lake Havasu City, Arizona- CHERRY VALLEY Off I-10 near Banning and Beaumont, California - YUMA LAKES Yuma, Arizona- EL GOLFO El Golfo de Santa Clara, Sonora, México- KQ RANCH Located at Julian, California

There are 2 types of memberships with a variety of add-on benefits. These 2 types are ‘the entire system’ – all 6 parks. Or you may purchase a membership in one park only. For purposes of this guidebook, I will only discuss membership in the El Golfo RV Beach Resort.

EL GOLFO RV BEACH RESORT

1. Member must own an RV.2. Camping is available on a 14-7 basis. Member may camp FREE for 14 days at which time he/she must leave the ‘system’ for 7 days. Following this 7 days ‘out’ the member may camp again for 14 days FREE of charge. In the event that there is space available in the park, the member may purchase this week out for a nominal fee and stay in the park. This week out privilege is awarded at the discretion of the park manager.3. Members may have no more than 10 persons in their camping space including those in tents.4. Members may purchase additional space for guests for a nightly fee.5. Reservations are an absolute requirement at El Golfo RV Resort.6. All spaces are full hook-up and fees are not required for these services. 28 waterfront sites are reserved for members and as such cannot be used by guests.7. 24 hour security is provided by park staff.8. El Golfo RV Resort has a heated swimming pool, 2 storey clubhouse, canteen, restaurant, laundramat, e-mail access and 2 bath houses. The resort is open year-round but the clubhouse, canteen and restaurant are closed between May and October. Propane and drinking water is available on-site.9. Memberships are valid for life and may be transferred or otherwise disposed of no more than 2 times.10. Management (Canadian/American/Mexican) are onsite 24 hours a day, 365 days a year.11. There is no cable available but Dish and Directv work well using the Yuma AZ area code (85365).

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Any and all qualified and serious potential purchasers may contact the park manager for a 3 day FREE stay at the resort. YOU ABSOLUTELY MUST CONTACT THE MANAGER BEFORE COMING TO EL GOLFO.

Phone or Fax 011-52(653) 515-7144 and ask for Patricio or HurricaneE-MAIL [email protected]

X

MAPS

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EL GOLFO BEACH & DESERT MAP

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XI

SPANGLISH TUTORIAL

This chapter is about communicating in Spanish not becoming bi-lingual. One of the most common and often frustrating experiences you’ll have when practicing Spanish is speaking to someone and having them respond in English. There are several reasons for this phenomenon. First of all, you must understand that they don’t mean to be impolite - quite the opposite. The person that you’re speaking to, can usually tell by your grammar or accent, that you’d probably be more comfortable speaking in English, so as a courtesy, if they can, they’ll speak to you in your language. Another reason is that, they suspect although you may be using Spanish words, the chances of you’re being able to understand them, when they respond with rapid fire fluency, are unlikely. This next reason is a little more subtle, and is frequently encountered in the U.S. Recent immigrants are often so proud of their newly acquired language skills, that when spoken to, in less than fluent Spanish, they’ll often mistake your intent and think that you’re patronizing them.

Don’t let any of these deter you from practicing. If they respond in English that’s fine. It means that they understood you, and that’s a start. You just keep right on speaking in Spanish - two language conversations are very common, and fun. Once they understand that you want to learn and practice their language your ‘stock’ will go up many points. It has been my experience, that relative to other cultures, Mexican people are, by far the most generous in helping strangers with their language. A Mexican will never embarrass you by saying that you used a word out of context, or that you used the wrong conjugation or tense or that your pronunciation was incorrect. Of course, once you approach fluency and you’re speaking with a friend who wants to help you, you’ll start getting corrected. The ‘Golfeños’ have become absolute geniuses, at deciphering what a foreigner is trying to say, without benefit of conjugated verbs and using only the present tense.

The reason that you are often misunderstood is two-fold. First of all in Spanish pronunciation, every letter is pronounced. If a person doesn’t pronounce the word absolutely correctly, it very often will have no meaning for them. If you pronounce a Spanish word with English phonetics, it becomes doubly confusing. We English speakers have no trouble whatsoever understanding mispronounced words because our rules of pronunciation are not so strict. Secondly, all Spanish verbs have approximately 54 conjugations, while in English we have at most 5 or 6. Usually we just add an ‘s’, ‘ed’ or and ‘ing’ and we’re off to the races.

The secret (certainly in El Golfo) is to see, hear or otherwise learn a noun or verb, memorize it and use it at every opportunity in your every day conversations. In a sense develop your own little patois. Don’t worry about tense or conjugation; your new friends will have no trouble figuring out what you’re trying to say.

The average, reasonably literate English speaker already has at their disposal, a Spanish vocabulary of approximately 2 thousand words. It’s true! Considering the influence of Latin in both languages, there are at least that many nouns and verbs

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that the two languages use in common. While there are usually minor variations in spelling (certainly in pronunciation), there are amazing similarities between the two languages. The major differences between the two occur in gender, pronunciation, and conjugation and sometimes in the formal versus the informal forms of address. When fluency is the goal, the student of Spanish can spend years mastering grammar, but as a casual visitor to Mexico, communication, not fluency is what’s needed. How many times in your life, have you had communication with a recent immigrant to your country, whose use of English was anything but fluent? It’s doubtful that you had a meaningful conversation, but you probably both got your points across. That’s communicating, and you can do it in Spanish. Never be embarrassed! Imagine a visitor to your country addressing you with a heavily accented “thank you”. Will you appreciate the ‘thank you’ (accent not-with-standing) or would you have preferred that he spoke to you in his native tongue? Of course not! Well now the roles are reversed and you’re the visitor in someone else’s country. It is plain and simply good manners to use as much Spanish as you possibly can. If you don’t, many people won’t even know what you mean when you thank them for one service or another. After all gracias is not hard to say. If you know, or even if you think you know a Spanish word - use it. Your Mexican friends will be delighted with your courtesy.

PRONUNCIATION Spanish, unlike English, is pronounced as it is written. If there’s a letter there, it’ll be pronounced and almost always the same way. Keys to pronunciation are:

- a, is always soft like ‘awe’ - e, is like the ‘ay’ in day- i, sounds like ‘ee’ in seek- o, always like ‘o’ in boat- u, always like the ‘oo’ in too- y, like the ‘ee’ in seek- ll, is an actual letter of the alphabet and is pronounced as a ‘y’. Calle becomes ‘kah-yay’

- ñ, is a unique letter and is pronounced ‘nyah’. Baño becomes ‘bah-nyo’, not bah-no.

- r, is a very short r almost like a soft ‘d’.

- rr, is spoken with a ‘trill’ or ‘roll’.- g, is always hard as in ground when it precedes a vowel and soft like a gutteral ‘h’ at all other times.- j, is always pronounced as a soft, gutteral ‘g’.- ó, and á are accent marks to indicate emphasis.- v, is pronounced as a ‘b’.

With a little practice, and listening, you’ll find the correct pronunciation comes naturally. Listening to Spanish language radio is a great way to pick up the nuances and ‘music’ of the language, even though you don’t understand the words.

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GENDER In English, gender (masculine, feminine) is not physically attached to nouns, rather they are implied. A boat or a ship is considered to be feminine and is usually referred to as her or she. In Spanish, gender is usually attached to the noun by an ‘o’ or an ‘a’. Those nouns ending in any other letter are also one or the other but you have to memorize which. Amiga is a female friend, whereas amigo is a masculine friend. Conjugation of adjectives relating to these nouns are also ‘genderized’. You would ask for otr(a) cerveza (another beer), not otr(o), because the noun cerveza ends in an ‘a’ and is therefore feminine. By the same token you’d ask for otr(o) taco not otr(a). Once again, you’ll still be understood, even if you ignore gender completely. You’ll sound like a foreigner, but what the heck, you are – but you’re still communicating!

CONJUGATIONThose of you who studied a foreign language in school, whether it was Spanish, French, German or even Latin will remember the horrors of having to memorize verb conjugation. There are many more than 54 conjugations of most Spanish verbs! While verb conjugation may be necessary even vital for fluent conversation, it isn’t for basic communication. Almost all Spanish verbs in their infinitive form end in either ‘er’, ‘ar’, or ‘ir’ and they each have their own rules for conjugation. Added to this, there are a whole bunch of ‘irregular’ verbs, each having their own rules. Obviously this is much too difficult to master in a few days, so let’s forget about conjugation altogether. If you memorize the words for I, you, he, she, we, you can forget about the different conjugations. Simply use the pronoun and the complete verb (unconjugated). This will sound like ‘baby talk’ to the Spanish ear, but you’ll be understood. If you and your wife are hungry, simply say “nosotros hambre” (we hungry), instead of conjugating the verb tener and saying tenemos hambre. The other shortcut is to forget about past, future and all other tenses. If you just stick to the present tense, communication becomes a breeze. Who cares if you say that my vacation is fun, was fun or will be fun, the tone of the conversation will make it quite clear that you’re having fun.

FORMAL (POLITE) VS INFORMALAs in most languages other than English, there’s a formal and an informal way of addressing folks. In German, for example the distinction is very precise. It would be unthinkable to use the informal form of address with someone you had just met or who was otherwise deserving of respect (whether he or she is or not). They would be deeply offended!

As you might expect, a much more casual approach is acceptable in Mexico - but the distinction still exists. Tu (too) is the informal ‘you’ and Usted (oostead) is the formal. You can never go wrong using the formal. Very few people are ever insulted by good manners. You should always use the formal ‘usted’ except with children. When someone uses the formal ‘usted’ with you, it’s a clear indication of his or her regard for you. On the other hand a person may use the informal ‘tu’. At this point it’s up to you to decide whether to use the ‘tu’ or continue expressing your respect with the formal form of address. Failure to change to the informal indicates that you consider the person to be deserving of your respect.

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The quickest way to ‘catch’ this nuance (other than tu and usted) is to listen for the conjugation of the verb estar (to be) in the frequently asked question - how are you? When someone asks, “como esta”, their addressing you with the respect deserving a stranger. “Como estas” on the other hand, is their way of saying that they consider you an equal (or less) and not just someone they know. I have several good friends that I address in the formal simply because I have a profound respect for them.

The next chapter lists some of the more common words that you’ll encounter in El Golfo. Try to memorize the nouns, they’re a lot more fun, and they don’t require conjugating - you can ‘throw’ them into an English sentence any time you want. As a matter of fact it’s a great way to memorize the words. You could end up speaking ‘Span-glish’, before you know it. The most important thing to remember is that this trip is supposed to be fun. This is Mexico for goodness sake - lighten up, live a little and enjoy.

XII

USEFUL SPANISH WORDS

Again otra vez owe-trah baseAir aire ah-ee-rayAll todo/a toe-doh/dahAlso tambien tahm-byenAlways siempre see-em-preyAnd y eeAnswer respuesta race-pwes-tahApple manzana mahn-sahn-ahAspirin aspirina ah-spear-een-ahAvacado aguacate ah-gwah-cah-tayAvenue avenida ah-bay-need-ahBacon tocino toe-see-nohBacon, well done ... muy hecho mooie aitch-ohBad malo/a mah-loh/lahBanana platano plaht-a-nohBay bahia bah-hee-ahBeach playa ply-ahBed cama cah-mahBedroom recamara ray-cah-mah-rahBeef carne de vaca car-nay day bah-cahBeer cerveza sair-base-ahBehind detras de day-trahs dayBelt cinturon sin-too-rohnBeverages bebidas bay-bead-usBig grande grawn-dayBird pajaro pah-hahr-ohBlack negro nay-grohBlanket cobija coe-bee-hahBlue azul ah-soolBoat barco bark-ohBoat, local fishing panga pahng-gahBook libro lee-broh

Boy muchacho moo-chahch-oh

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Brakes frenos fray-nohssBread pan pahnBreakfast desayuno day-sah-you-nohBroken descompuesto dais-cohm-pwes-tohButter mantequilla mahn-tay-key-ahBuy comprar comb-prarCalm tranquilo trahn-kee-lohCampground campamento campa-men-tohCat gato gah-toeChair silla see-yahChange/exchange cambio calm-beeyohChannel canal cahn-alCheese queso kay-sohChicken pollo poy-ohChild niño/a neen-yohChurch iglesia ee-glace-yahCity ciudad see-oo-dahdClams almejas ahl-may-hahsClean limpio leem-pyohClosed cerrado sair-ah-dohClouds nubes noo-baisCoffee cafe caw-fayCold frio free-ohCoin moneda moh-nay-dahCove ensenada ain-sen-ah-dahCredit Card tarjeta de creditoCup taza tah-sahDangerous peligroso pail-ee-groh-sohDark prieta pree-ate-ahDay dia dee-ahDiesal diesel dee-sehlDirty sucio soos-yohDo you speak English

habla usted ingles

Doctor doctor doak-tohrDog perro pair-rohDouble doble doh-blayDrive manejar/viajeDrivers license licencia de manejar lee-sense-yah day ...Early temprano tem-prawn-ohEars oidos oh-ee-dohsEast este es-tayEggs huevos whey-boseEggs, fried ... fritos ... free-toseEggs, hardboiled ... duros ... do-roasEggs, hard ...cocidos coh-see-dohsEggs, scrambled ... revueltos ... ray-bwell-toseElectricity electricidad ee-lehk-treese-ee-dahdEmpty vacio bah-seeyohEnough! basta bahs-tahEnter entrar ain-trahrEntrance entrada en-trah-dahEstuary estero eh-stair-ohExcuse me perdoneme pear-doan-eh-mayExit salida sah-leed-ahEyes ojos oh-hohss

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Family familia fahm-eelyaFar lejos lay-hohssFast rapido wrap-ee-dohFish pescado pace-cah-dohFisherman pescador pace-cah-dohrFishing, sport pescando pace-cahn-doughFishing rod caña cahn-yaFlag bandera bahn-day-rahFlashlight lampera de mano lahm-pay-rahFlu gripe gree-payFood comida coh-meed-ahFor para pahr-ahFork tenedor ten-eh-dohrFree gratis graht-eesFresh fresco/a frace-cohFriday viernes byairn-aceFriend amigo/a ahm-ee-gohFrom de dayFruit frutas froot-usFull lleno/a yain-ohGarlic ajo ah-hoeGasoline gasolina gah-so-leen-ahGentleman caballero cahb-ah-yair-ohGirl muchacha moo-chahch-ahGin ginebra hee-nay-brahGlass vaso bah-sohGood bueno/a bwain-ohGood afternoon buenas tardes bwain-us-tahr-daceGood bye adios ahd-ee-oseGood morning buenos dias bwain-ose-dee-ahsGood night buenas noches bwain-ahs-no-chaseGrapefruit toronja toh-rohn-hahGreen verde bare-dayGroceries abarrotes abah-roe-taseGuide guia gee-yahGulf golfo goal-fohHalibut lenguado lehn-gwah-dohHam jamon hah-moanHammer martillo mahr-tee-ohHammock hamaca hahm-ah-cahHappy feliz fell-eeseHat sombrero soam-bray-rohHead cabeza kah-base-ahHello hola oh-lahHelp me! ayudame ah-yoo-dah-mayHere aca ah-cahHighway carretera cahr-ah-tare-ahHill cerro sair-rohHim, he el ellHospital hospital ose-pee-tahlHot, spicy caliente cahl-yen-tayHot, temperature calor cah-lohrHour hora owe-rahHouse casa cah-sahHow como coh-mohHow are you? como esta usted?

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How big que grande kay grawn-dayHow far que tan lejos kay tahn lay-hohseHow many cuantos kwahn-toseHow much cuanto kwahn-tohHumidity humedad oo-may-dahdI don’t speak Spanish

no hablo español

I don’t understand no comprendo no-cohm-prain-dohI need necesito nace-ess-ee-tohI want/ would like quiero kee-air-ohI’m looking for ... busco ... boos-cohI, me yo yohIce hielo yay-lohIce cream helado ail-ah-dohIn front al frente ahl-frain-tayInside dentro dane-trohIs it possible? es posible ess-poh-seeb-layIs there? hay? eyeIsland isla ees-lahIsn’t there? hay? eyeJuice jugo hoo-gohKey llave yah-bayKnife cuchillo koo-chee-yohLady dama dah-mahLagoon laguna lah-goon-ahLand tierra tee-air-ahLearn aprender ah-prain-dairLeft izquierda is-key-air-dahLess menos mane-oseLet’s go vamanos bahm-ah-nohseLighthouse faro fah-rohLime limon lee-mohnLobster langosta lahn-ghose-tahLunch comida coh-meed-ahMan hombre ohm-breyManager gerente hair-ain-tayMany muchos/as mooch-oseMap mapa mah-pahMarket mercado mare-cah-doughMayor alcalde ahl-cahl-dayMeat carne cahr-nayMechanic mecanico may-cahn-ee-kohMenu menu may-nooMedicine medicina med-ee-seen-ahMilk leche lay-chayMinute minuto meen-oo-tohMiss señorita sane-yohr-ee-tahMonday lunes loon-aceMoney dinero deen-air-ohMonth mes maceMore mas mahsMountain sierra see-air-ahMouth boca boh-kahMr. señor sane-yohrMrs. señora sane-yohr-ahMuch mucho/a mooch-owe

Page 43: Golfo de Santa Clara Guidebook

Napkin servilleta sair-byet-ahNear proximo prohks-eem-ohNewspaper periodico pair-yoh-dee-cohNo no noNoise ruido roo-ee-dohNorth norte nor-tayNose nariz nah-reeseNothing nada nahdaNow ahora ah-ohr-ahNurse enfermera ain-fair-mare-ahOccupied ocupado owe-koo-pah-dohOctopus pulpa pool-pahOil aceite ah-say-ee-tayOnion cebolla say-boy-ahOpen abierto ah-byair-tohOrange naranja nah-rahn-hahOutside fuera foo-air-ahOysters ostiones ohs-tee-ohn-acePain dolor dough-lohrPay pagar pah-gahrPaper papel pah-pailParty fiesta fee-ess-tahPen pluma ploom-ahPencil lapiz lah-peesePepper pimiento pee-myain-tohPharmacy farmacia fahr-mass-yahPill pastilla pahs-tee-yahPineapple piña peen-yahPlate plato platt-ohPlease por favor pohr-fah-bohrPliers pinzas peen-sahsPoint punta poon-tahPoliceman policia pohl-eese-yahPork puerco poo-air-cohPort puerto poo-air-tohPotatoes papas pa-pasPound libra lee-brahPresent regalo ray-gahl-ohPrice precio press-yohPrivate privado pree-bahd-ohProblem problema proh-blaim-ahProceed! adelante ah-day-lahn-tayPump bomba bohm-bahPurse bolsa bohl-sahProhibited prohibido pro-hib-ee-dohQuestion pregunta prey-goon-tahRain lluvia yoob-yahRare poco hecho poh-coh-aitch-ohRed roja roh-hahRent rentar rain-tahrReserved reservado race-air-bah-dohRestroom baño bahn-yohRice arroz ahr-rohseRight derecha day-ray-chahRiver rio ree-ohRoad camino cah-mee-noh

Page 44: Golfo de Santa Clara Guidebook

Room (hotel) cuarto kwahr-tohRum ron rohnSaint santo sahn-tohSalt sal sahlSalad ensalada ain-sahl-ah-dahSand arena ah-rain-ahSaturday sabado sah-bah-dohSausage chorizo choh-reese-ohScallops cayos kye-yohsSchool escuela ess-kway-lahScrewdriver desarmador dais-ahrm-ah-dohrSea mar mahrSeafood mariscos mahr-eese-cohseSecond segundo say-goon-dohSell vender ben-dareShe, her ella eh-yahShelter refugio ray-foo-hyoeShoe zapato zah-pah-tohShore orilla ohr-ee-yahShovel pala pah-lahShower regador ray-gah-dohrShrimps camarones cahm-ah-roh-naceShrimp, breaded ... empanisado em-pahn-ee-sah-dohShrimp, garlic butter

... mojo de ajo moh-hoh-day-ah-hoh

Sick enfermo/a ain-fair-mohSignature firma feer-mahSleep sueño swain-yohSlightly un poco / poquito oon-poh-kohSmall chico/a cheek-ohSmoke, to fumar foo-mahrSnails/conch caracoles cahr-ah-coh-laceSo long hasta luego ahs-tah-looway-gohSoap jabon hah-boneSoda soda soh-dahSoup sopa soh-pahSouth sur soorSpoon cuchara kooch-ahr-ahSquid calamares cahl-ah-mahr-aceStore tienda tyain-dahStore, hardware ferreteria fair-eht-air-ee-yahStove estufa ess-too-fahStraight derecho dah-raitch-ahStrawberry fresa frais-ahStreet calle cah-yaySugar azucar ah-soo-cahrSun sol sohlSunday domingo doh-meen-gohSun glasses gafas de sol gah-fahs-day-sohlSupper cena sain-ahSwim nadar nah-dahrSwimming pool alberca ahl-bair-cahTable mesa may-sahTea te tayTeach enseñar ain-sai-nyarTelephone telefono tay-lay-foh-noh

Page 45: Golfo de Santa Clara Guidebook

Television set televisor tay-lay-bee-sohrTemperature temperatura taim-pair-ah-too-rahThank you gracias grahs-yusThe bill/check cuenta kwehn-tahThem, they ellos eh-yohsThere alla ah-yahThere is hay eyeThere isn’t no hay no-eyeThursday jueves hway-baseTide, high marea altas mah-raya-ahl-tahsTide, low marea bajas mah-raya-bah-hahsTighten apretar ah-prey-tahrTip propina proh-peen-ahTire, auto llanta yahn-tahTired descanso dais-cahn-sohToast pan tostado pahn-tohs-tah-dohToday hoy oyToilet tissue papel sanitario pah-pail-sahn-ee-tahr-yohTomatoes tomates toh-maht-aceTomorrow mañana mahn-yahn-ahTomorrow afternoon

...por la tarde ... pohr lah tahr-day

Tomorrow morning ... por la mañanaTomorrow night ... por la noche ... pohr-lah-noh-chayToo much demasiado day-mahs-yah-dohTowel toalla toh-ah-yahTown pueblo pway-blohTuesday martes mahr-taceTuna atun ah-toonVacany libre lee-breyVegetables legumbres lay-goom-braceVery well muy bien mooy-byenWait! espere es-pair-ehWater agua ah-gwahWaves olas oh-lahsWe go vamos bah-mohsWe, us nosotros noh-soh-trohsWednesday miercoles mee-air-cohl-aceWeek semana say-mahn-ahWeekend fin de semana feen-day-say-mawn-ahWelcome bienvenido byen-ben-ee-dohWest oeste oh-es-tayWet mojado moh-hah-dohWhat is it que es? kay-ess?What time is it? que hora es? kay-ohr-ah-ess?When cuando? kwahn-doh?Where is donde es? dohn-day-ess?White blanco blahn-cohWho quien? kee-ain?Why por que? Pohr-kay?Wind viento byen-tohWine vino been-ohWith con cohnWoman mujer moo-hareWord palabra pahl-ahb-rahWork trabajo trah-bah-hoh

Page 46: Golfo de Santa Clara Guidebook

Wrench llave de tuercasYear año ahn-yohYellow amarillo ahma-ree-yohYes si seeYesterday ayer ah-yairYou (familiar) tu tooYou (formal) usted oo-steadYou’re welcome de nada day-nah-dahYour su soo

ABOUT THE AUTHOROriginally from western Canada, he describes his life as a ‘rags to riches’ story. In reverse! Very early in life, he developed a disdain for the privilege of his birth family and sought a military career. This sparked a passion for adventure and as a result, he has traveled and worked in over 14 countries, always immersing himself in their cultures.

Ultimately, as director of engineering for a Canadian computer firm, he decided that enough was enough and cast his eyes south. In 1990, he made his home in Yuma, Arizona and immediately discovered and fell in love with El Golfo. During the ensuing few years, every spare moment was spent in the village, until 1996 when he made El Golfo his permanent home.

Today Patricio, as he has become known to all and sundry and his wife Ofelia, manage the El Golfo RV Beach Resort and when not working, can usually be found somewhere on the 30 miles of beach or back in the desert, researching their new book.