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Global Sushi. part 2 Ted Bestor Department of Anthropology Harvard University May 3, 2004

Global Sushi. part 2 - Harvard University · Global Sushi. part 2 Ted Bestor Department of ... to distant place Ł The Most Favored nation model Œ high status of ... Sukiyaki 121

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Glo

bal S

ushi

. par

t 2

Ted

Best

or

Dep

artm

ent o

f An

thro

polo

gy

Har

vard

Uni

vers

ity

May

3, 2

004

�Fly

ing

Tuna

� fro

m a

ch

ildre

n�s

book

abo

ut

the

mar

ket

�Tun

a co

ffins

on th

e lo

adin

g do

cks

at T

suki

ji

Wor

ld S

yste

ms

�so

ciol

ogis

t Im

man

uel W

alle

rste

in

�hi

stor

ian

Ferd

inan

d Br

aude

l

�C

ore

and

perip

herie

s of

an

expa

ndin

g w

orld

sy

stem

of e

cono

mic

�C

ore

and

perip

herie

s ar

e lin

ked

with

incr

easi

ngly

co

mpl

exit

into

a fo

rm o

f pol

itica

l/soc

ial/c

ultu

ral

mut

ual d

epen

denc

e or

inte

grat

ion

�in

tegr

atio

nth

at is

inhe

rent

ly u

nequ

al

Glo

bal f

low

s --

Appa

dura

i

In c

ontra

st to

sta

tic c

ore-

perip

hery

mod

els

of

glob

al h

iera

rchy

, Arju

n Ap

padu

rai p

ropo

ses

�m

ulti-

dim

ensi

onal

flow

s of

influ

ence

�si

mul

tane

ousl

y em

anat

ing

and

rebo

undi

ng

from

var

ious

pla

ces

�op

erat

ing

alon

g di

ffere

nt d

imen

sion

s or

�s

cape

s�

Glo

bal f

low

s --

Appa

dura

i

Ethn

osca

pes

�pe

ople

Fina

nces

cape

s �

capi

tal

Ideo

scap

es �

idea

s an

d id

eolo

gies

Tech

nosc

apes

�te

chno

logi

es a

nd m

ater

ial c

ultu

re

Med

iasc

apes

�im

ages

, inf

orm

atio

n, re

pres

enta

tions

and,

of c

ours

e, I

mig

ht a

dd: s

ushi

-sca

pes

Orig

ins

of im

ports

, 200

1

Va

lue

in b

illion

yen

W

eigh

t in

milli

on k

ilogr

ams

Pe

ople

�s R

epub

lic o

f Chi

na

282.

1 68

2.5

Uni

ted

Stat

es o

f Am

eric

a

175.

0 42

1.2

Thai

land

13

0.2

240.

9R

ussi

a

1

26.6

20

4.0

Rep

ublic

of K

orea

11

6.4

183.

0In

done

sia

116.

4 12

7.2

Chi

le

87.6

33

2.4

Taiw

an

82.0

15

9.7

Nor

way

71

.8

283.

7 Au

stra

lia

58.7

26

.8Vi

etna

m

58.3

80

.0

Indi

a 54

.2

67.9

Eu

rope

an U

nion

46

.3

127.

6

Con

ditio

ns o

f Glo

baliz

atio

n To

day

�in

crea

sing

vel

ocity

of e

cono

mic

and

cul

tura

l ca

pita

l (Pi

erre

Bou

rdie

u)

�ac

cele

ratin

g tra

nspo

rtatio

n &

com

mun

icat

ions

�m

ore

peop

le li

ving

out

side

thei

r cul

ture

s of

or

igin

, so

mor

e pe

ople

are

cro

ss-c

ultu

ral

agen

ts a

nd b

roke

rs(fo

r exa

mpl

e, s

ushi

ch

efs

in L

ondo

n an

d LA

)

Con

ditio

ns o

f Glo

baliz

atio

n To

day

�la

rger

, mor

e flu

id a

rena

s fo

r exc

hang

es

acro

ss m

ultip

le d

imen

sion

s an

d af

fect

ing

wid

er s

pect

rum

s of

dai

ly li

fe

�ra

pid

cros

s-fe

rtili

zatio

n an

d �a

rbitr

age�

of

cultu

ral c

apita

lacr

oss

man

y re

alm

s of

co

nsum

ptio

n, m

edia

, val

ues,

pol

itica

l act

ion,

ec

onom

ic o

rgan

izat

ion,

etc

., of

ten

in

unin

tend

ed o

r una

ntic

ipat

ed w

ays.

Con

ditio

ns o

f Glo

baliz

atio

n

From

a p

ersp

ectiv

e of

pol

itics

and

inte

rnat

iona

l re

latio

ns, g

loba

l int

er-c

onne

cted

ness

:

�is

incr

easi

ngly

out

side

the

stat

e sp

here

,

�an

d di

min

ishe

s th

e na

tion-

stat

e as

prim

ary

fram

ing

prin

cipl

e or

con

duit

for t

rans

actio

ns

acro

ss s

ocie

tal o

r cul

tura

l bou

ndar

ies.

Con

ditio

ns o

f Glo

baliz

atio

n

But f

rom

a c

ultu

ralp

ersp

ectiv

e, th

ese

conn

ectio

ns re

fram

e th

e m

eani

ngs

of

�bou

ndar

ies�

�bo

unda

ry c

ross

ings

do n

ot s

impl

y ho

mog

eniz

e pe

ople

�s li

ves;

�th

ey a

lso

crea

te n

ew o

ppor

tuni

ties

for c

ultu

ral

dist

inct

ions

to b

e si

gnifi

cant

in m

ore

and

mor

e pe

ople

�s d

aily

live

s

Con

ditio

ns o

f Glo

baliz

atio

n

�an

d di

stin

ctio

ns a

mon

g cu

lture

s, s

ocie

ties,

or

lifes

tyle

s th

emse

lves

bec

ome

the

basi

s fo

r pe

ople

to m

ake

new

loca

land

idio

sync

ratic

iden

titie

s fo

r the

mse

lves

usi

ng m

ater

ial f

rom

gl

obal

cul

ture

Circ

uits

of c

ultu

ral c

apita

l

Circ

uits

of c

ultu

ral c

apita

l

Sush

i ent

ers

the

glob

al s

tream

of

cons

ciou

snes

s

Ther

e�s

Som

ethi

ng A

bout

Mar

yBe

n St

iller a

skin

g M

att D

amon

abo

ut C

amer

on D

iaz

�w

ho

has

supp

osed

ly g

aine

d w

eigh

t and

gon

e to

Jap

an

�Jap

an?

Wha

t�s h

appe

ning

in J

apan

? W

hy is

she

go

ing

to J

apan

?�

�Oh,

you

�ve

hear

d of

mai

l-ord

er b

rides

, hav

en�t

you?

Wel

l, th

ey g

o th

e ot

her w

ay, t

oo.�

�Mar

y�s

a�?

Wha

t are

they

, des

pera

te?

She�

s a

wha

le!�

�Don

�t fo

rget

, it�s

a s

umo

cultu

re. T

hey

pay

by th

e po

und

ther

e. It

�s s

orta

like

� s

orta

like

tuna

.�

Flow

s of

cul

inar

y in

fluen

ce

�Th

e R

ajm

odel

�co

loni

al p

ower

brin

gs

back

new

tast

es

�Th

e U

nion

Pac

ific

mod

el �

imm

igra

nt la

bor

brin

gs n

ew c

uisi

ne to

dis

tant

pla

ce

�Th

e M

ost F

avor

ed n

atio

n m

odel

�hi

gh

stat

us o

f cou

ntry

tran

slat

es in

to c

ulin

ary

inte

rest

Isab

ella

Bird

on

the

�food

que

stio

n�

�the

fishy

and

veg

etab

le a

bom

inat

ions

kn

own

as �J

apan

ese

food

� can

onl

y be

sw

allo

wed

and

dig

este

d by

a fe

w, a

nd

that

afte

r lon

g pr

actic

e�

Bird

, Unb

eate

n Tr

acks

in J

apan

, 187

8, p

g. 1

9

�not

hing

sho

rt of

act

ual s

tarv

atio

n

wou

ld in

duce

a E

urop

ean

to fa

ce

the

forb

iddi

ng n

ativ

e fo

od�

Maj

or H

enry

Kno

llys,

vis

itor t

o Ja

pan

in th

e 18

80s,

quo

ted

by C

orta

zzi,

Vict

oria

ns in

Jap

an

Goo

d Th

ing

He

Can

�t R

ead

My

Min

dby

Chr

istin

e La

vin

I am

eat

ing

sush

iW

hen

I do

not l

ike

sush

i,Bu

t he

love

s su

shi

And

I lov

e hi

m!

I�m p

okin

g w

ith a

cho

pstic

k At

a li

ving

bre

athi

ng fi

shst

ick.

Oh

my

God

!I t

hink

it�s

tryi

ng to

sw

im!

Som

e sa

y ea

ting

sush

iIs

like

che

win

g on

you

r ow

n ch

eek,

Or s

ucki

ng d

own

a bu

cket

ful

Of t

enta

cled

slim

e.

I do

not l

ike

sush

iBu

t, lo

ok, I

�m e

atin

g su

shi!

It�s

a go

od th

ing

He

can�

t rea

d m

y m

ind.

(Yes

, thi

s is

a v

ery

inte

rest

ing

text

ure

Wha

t is

it? O

hhhh

h �

�)

Tiny

Fis

h fo

r Jap

anby

Sta

n R

oger

s

Whe

re P

atte

rson

Cre

ek�s

mud

dy w

ater

s ru

n do

wn

Past

the

penn

y ar

cade

s, b

y th

e ha

rbou

r do

wnt

own,

All t

he T

urtle

back

boa

ts ru

st in

the

rain

Like

they

nev

er w

ill le

ave

ther

e ag

ain.

But l

eave

ther

e th

ey w

ill in

the

hour

s be

fore

da

wn,

Sl

ip o

ut in

the

dark

ness

with

out a

wor

d or

a s

ong.

For a

few

mor

e ye

ars

yet t

hey

will

wor

k w

hile

th

ey c

an,

Tt

hti

fih

fJ

Tiny

Fis

h fo

r Jap

an

The

plan

t run

s th

ree

shift

s no

w, t

here

�s p

lent

y of

pa

y.W

e sh

ip s

even

teen

tons

of t

his

garb

age

each

da

y.If

we

wan

t to

eat f

ish,

then

we�

ll op

en a

can

,An

d ca

tch

tiny

fish

for J

apan

.

So th

e da

ys ru

n to

geth

er.

Each

one

is th

e sa

me.

And

it�s

good

that

the

smel

t hav

e no

love

lier

nam

e.It�

s al

l jus

t a jo

b no

w, w

e�ll

wor

k w

hile

we

can,

To c

atch

tiny

fish

for J

apan

.

Iron

Che

f M

orim

oto

for M

illsto

ne

coffe

e

Best

or�s

Eba

y In

dex:

num

ber o

f ite

ms

adve

rtise

d fo

r sal

e in

the

follo

win

g ca

tego

ries,

Apr

il 22

, 200

3

Sush

i96

2

Best

or�s

Eba

y In

dex:

num

ber o

f ite

ms

adve

rtise

d fo

r sal

e in

the

follo

win

g ca

tego

ries,

Apr

il 22

, 200

3

Sush

i96

2

Tem

pura

135

Suki

yaki

121

Best

or�s

Eba

y In

dex:

num

ber o

f ite

ms

adve

rtise

d fo

r sal

e in

the

follo

win

g ca

tego

ries,

Apr

il 22

, 200

3

Sush

i96

2

Tem

pura

135

Suki

yaki

121

Sash

imi

98

Mis

o86

Yaki

tori

65

Best

or�s

Eba

y In

dex:

num

ber o

f ite

ms

adve

rtise

d fo

r sal

e in

the

follo

win

g ca

tego

ries,

Apr

il 22

, 200

3

Ram

en58

Soba

27

Udo

n24

Best

or�s

Eba

y In

dex:

num

ber o

f ite

ms

adve

rtise

d fo

r sal

e in

the

follo

win

g ca

tego

ries,

Apr

il 22

, 200

3

Ram

en58

Soba

27

Udo

n24

Nat

to2

Sush

i Bar

Son

gby

Shō

nen

Knife

�Sus

hi, s

ushi

, sus

hi b

ar!

I wan

na g

o to

a s

ushi

bar

!I w

anna

go

with

you

!H

amac

hi, i

ka, e

bi, t

ako,

mag

uro,

kai

bash

ira.

How

abo

ut th

is F

riday

nig

ht!

Ooo

, let

�s e

at a

hea

lthy

men

u.It�

s a

fam

ous

Japa

nese

mea

l.�

Orig

inal

Eng

lish

lyric

s by

Sh ō

nen

Knife