Upload
others
View
0
Download
0
Embed Size (px)
Citation preview
Global Fashion Technology TrendsWEARABLE TECHNOLOGIES AND STARTUP SCENE IN FASHION TECH
IN COLLABORATION WITH INTESA SANPAOLO INNOVATION CENTER
INDEX
1. Five major global trends in fashion
• Sustainability
• See now – buy now strategies
• The end of the designers’ era
• Omni-channel marketing
• Wearable technologies
2. Global startup scene in Fashion Technology
3. Fashion and Wearable Technology: Case
studies
4. Fashion and Smart Fabrics: Case studies
3. Conclusions
Five Major
Global Trends in
Fashion
1. SUSTAINABILITY
2. SEE NOW – BUY NOW STRATEGIES
3. THE END OF THE DESIGNERS’ ERA
4. OMNI-CHANNEL MARKETING
5. WEARABLE TECHNOLOGIES
1. Sustainability 1/2
All over the world, the sustainable practices are introduced into every
step of the fashion production cycle, be it design, sourcing, production, or
retail.
In sourcing, the manufacturers are looking to increase the traceability of
the raw materials, as well as to use the recycled or organic fibers.
We observe global associations of raw materials manufactures, such as
Cotton Leads, to commit to use the latest technology to produce sustainable
fibre, fully traceable from farm to finished garment.
A number of technologies are being developed to create eco-friendly
fabrics from unconventional materials such as milk, tea, or coffee beans. New
textiles are also created from recycled materials, ranging from fabric itself, to
plastic bags or bottles.
Designers and brands are increasingly applying innovative
manufacturing, dyeing, printing and washing processes to reduce water and
energy usage.
Introduction of innovative dyeing technologies that allow to transfer the
dyes to fabric in a one-step process, results in saving up to 75 gallons of water
and up to 85 percent energy in the dyeing of a pound of fabric, and produces
no harmful by-products.
66% of global respondents are willing to pay more
for sustainable goods
*2015 Nielsen Global Corporate Sustainability Report.
1. Sustainability 2/2
Digital printing, a technology used by a number of prominent
designers, reduces water usage by 95 percent, energy usage of 75
percent, and minimizes textile waste.
3D printing made its way to the fashion world, not only in a form of
pieces of clothing printed with plastic materials, but also as a technology
that allows to print fabric itself.
In online retail, the new digital technologies are able to match
products with customers based on their personal measurements and
preferences. This allows to drastically reduce the rate of returns and hence
the energy used for shipping, and waste.
In order to encourage the brands to apply sustainable practices,
new standards and certificates are introduced. In 2014, Cradle to Cradle
Products Innovation Institute launched Fashion Positive, a certification
program for sustainable fashion brands that will allow them to improve their
visibility on the global arena.
Market data:
Wohlers Report for 2014 forcasted the
worldwide 3D printing industry to grow from
$3.07 billion in revenue in 2013 to $12.8 billion by
2018, and exceed $21 billion in worldwide
revenue by 2020. In 2015, the industry surpassed
$5.1 billion.
Since 2011, more than USD 80 mln was
raised in funding for the startups providing
better fitting solutions for the online platforms.
2. See Now – Buy Now 1/2
For the past several years, designers and retailers have not been
satisfied with the fact that there is a 6 months gap between putting the
designs on the catwalk during the fashion shows and in the shops. The luxury
brands are experiencing fierce competition from the retailers, who are
updating their collections regularly, and have to find ways to bridge this
delay.
The initiative was taken by Burberry who announced that it would skip
the gap and that the new collection was already available in the stores. This
move has been supported by Tom Ford, who announced the “see now-buy
immediately” strategy, Rebecca Minkoff, and, on a lesser scale, by Prada,
Diane von Furstenberg and Monique Lhuillier who are selling a select few
items from the collections just exhibited.
Social media as shopping channel
2. See Now – Buy Now 2/2
One of the reasons cited by the brands is that in the era of social media,
where the shows are live-streamed, and the pictures of the new collections are
immediately uploaded to Instagram, delaying the sales for half a year creates
confusion and misunderstanding with the customers, who cannot be expected
to tie-in with the traditional calendar. So the brands are now putting the focus
of the shows primarily on consumers instead of editors, buyers, or stylists.
Another reason for changing the calendar is that the brands have global
presence and their customers live in different climates. Customers’ demand
has to be satisfied in time, because modern customer does not shop early
anymore, but buys now to wear now.
This trend is backed by the Council of Fashion Designers of America, who
announced that it would work with Boston Consulting Group to re-evaluate the
traditional twice-yearly format of New York Fashion Week, which takes place in
February and September, in order to create an in-depth analysis and road
map for the future of Fashion Week.
This is one of the newest trends on the fashion horizon, clearly reflecting
the strong influence of the social media and customer focus, and it is likely to
continue growing.
PWC Total Retail Survey 2016
3. The End of the Designer’s Era
One of the latest trends on the fashion scene, demonstrating, yet again, the influence of
the social media, is the exit of signature designers from fashion houses. It marks the threshold of a
new era, where the artistic directors are not designers any more, but people whose core
competence is the ability to craft and communicate a strong point-of-view across a number of
channels, encompassing everything from public appearances to the social media.
In the course of just several months we’ve observed Alexander Wang exit Balenciaga,
Alber Elbaz pushed out of Lanvin, and Raf Simons leave Dior.
Unlike in earlier instances where the designers became celebrities thanks to their
overhauling a famous brand (case in point Tom Ford in Gucci), the tendency now is to hire
celebrities who bring along a huge number of followers, although lacking experience in more
traditional areas like design.
An example of such shift may be the recent appointment by Brioni of Justin O’Shea, a
former fashion director (buyer) for the luxury website MyTheresa.com, with no designer training,
to the position of its Creative Director. O’Shea’s appointment was announced on new Brioni
Instagram account.Since relevance is one of the most sought for features by the brands (which also is
reflected in “see now-buy now” trend), O’Shea’s prominent street-style presence and a vast
amount of publicity - 80,000 Instagram followers, along with his retail experience, are deemed to
be a reason for his appointment to a conservative traditional men’s wear brand.
#Brioni is pleased to announce the appointment of Justin O’Shea as new Creative Director. ‘I am deeply honored to undertake this new challenge for such prestigious and celebrated menswear house. It is with great excitement I am looking forward to write a new chapter in the story of Brioni.’ @justinoshea
4. Omni-Channel Marketing 1/2
Retailers continue to realize that they need to connect with users on
multiple channels and touch points simultaneously or even
interchangeably, and will give customers the ability to interact and
complete transactions on their own terms. When a customer wants to view
an item online, purchase it using their phone, and return it by dropping by
the store, he or she will be able to do so in a smooth and seamless way.
Social media continues to heavily influence product decisions, and,
serving as a shopping platform, it grows as a part of the omnichannel mix.
Over the last several years, brands have used social media to market their
products, talk to customers, and even make merchandising decisions; but
in the near future merchants will be adding “selling” to the list of things they
can do on social sites, as has been already done by Facebook, Pinterest,
and Twitter.
Influence of social media on online shopping behaviour
Base: 22,618
PWC Total Retail Survey 2016
4. Omni-Channel Marketing 2/2
Retailers are adopting and experimenting withtech innovations in order to figure out how they canuse them to improve the shopping experience.Technology is being integrated in brick-and-mortarstores. We currently observe the increased use of POS,beacons, augmented reality (from digital fitting roomsto interactive windows displays), wearables, and 3Dprinting.
Use of technology allows the retailers to providemore personalized shopping experience to thecustomers. In order to enhance it even more, retailersare investing in the Big Data solutions. Businesses haverealized that in order to predict shopper’s behaviorand provide truly personalized experiences, theywould need to gather as much information about thebehavior, history, and whereabouts of consumers. BigData enables retailers to implement dynamic pricing,personalized recommendations, shopper-specificdiscounts, and more. Use of mobile/smartphones whilst in-store.
Base: 22,618
PWC Total Retail Survey 2016
4. Wearable Technologies 1/3
The lines between fashion and technology have been blurring for
some time, starting from 2012 when Diane Con Furstenberg sent her models
down the runway wearing Google Glass addition to their wrap dresses.
Although the project did not take off, this event predicted the entrance of
the gadgets into the world of fashion. This entrance hasn’t been smooth and
easy. In her NYT article “Why I’m breaking up with my Apple Watch” in June
2015, writer Vanessa Friedman stated: “No matter how attractive the Apple
Watch is in the context of other smartwatches or smart bands, no matter
how much of an aesthetic advance its rounded corners and rectangular
display, it still looks like a gadget."
This consumers’ need found a lively response from the technology
companies, and gave a rise to one of the two current major tendencies
clearly observed in the field of wearable tech: wearable gadgets take shape
of designer pieces through massive and intensive collaboration of the tech
producers with designer/fashion houses. What we observe is usually a
marriage of an existing hardware, such as health and well being tracking
devices or devices with specific functions (i.e., social media or safety) with a
designer piece of jewellery.
*statista.com
Another prominent, and, possibly, more promising trend is the intensive
research and development of new smart fabrics. Recent advances in
technology have brought together the apparel, technology, and textile
industries to develop new capabilities in fabrics with the potential to change
how the consumers interact with their clothes and other textile products. We
observe different methods of creating such fabrics, that can range from using
chemistry to using computer tech, and different functionalities - from fabrics
that react to the changes in environment to the fabrics created for pure
entertainment.
Global startup scene in wearable technology reflects these two trends,
with new companies all over the world introducing innovative ideas both in the
fields of combining technological devices with fashion products and creating
textile materials of the future.
Market data:
According to Gartner, the largest and
fastest growing category of the wearable tech
market is expected to be smart garments,
which are predicted to grow from 100,000 units
shipped in 2014 to 26 million units shipped in
2016.
4. Wearable Technologies 2/3
4. Wearable Technologies 3/3
Italian Wearable Technology Scene
Distribution of wearable tech companies
across the industries in Italy**
As of beginning of 2016 there were 5.150 innovative startups registered in Italy.*
20% of these companies are located in Piedmont, followed by Sardinia on the second place with
15%. Lombardy, Tuscany, Sicily, Lazio, Friuli Venezia Giulia follow with 10% each.**
Most of these companies are well established, 48% are long time active S.R.Ls, where startups
come close second with 36%.
The reason for such distirbution is thought to be high entry barriers, in terms of heavy investments
needed and lack of competent cross-industrial specialists.
There are, however, single instances of fashion tech projects in Italy, both startups and industry
leaders.
Circle Garage, a startup from Genoa, presented its smart watch HIRIS last year in Consumer
electronic Show in Las Vegas.
Colmar, an apparel production copany has partnered with Directa Plus to create World’s First
Graphene-Enhanced Sportswear.
* aster.it
**wearable.to, wired.it
Wearable Technology and Fashion: Current Trends
TechSmart
Fabrics
After several years since the
introduction of gadgets in people’s
everyday lives, the tech companies
started to look at the fashion
companies in order to help put the
"wear" in wearables.
Fashion
Collaboration between established
tech companies and fashion brands,
fitting existing technologies into
fashionable objects
Independent companies,
research centers, and startups
exploring new ideas and
technologies
and
and
and
Simultaneously, the development of the
technology allows designers to implement
their most futuristic ideas using the smart
fabrics. Their vision is that in the future every
piece of tech, like phones or cameras, is
going to disappear and will be integrated
into the garment, and the consumer will
decide what this garment needs to do.
*techcrunch.com
Global Startup Scene in Fashion Tech:Global Distribution
The technology continues to advance at somewhat an astonishing rate, giving rise to new ideas and the young people who are ready to revolutionize the industry.
Worldwide, from East to West, we can observe a growing number of startups, raising funds to implement the innovative solutions responding to the ever growing demand from the customers for wearable tech.
Global Startup Scene in Fashion Tech
Investment Landscape 1/2
For the last 4 years, more than USD 2
bln were invested in the fashion tech
startups, more than USD 100 mln in
the seed stages and the rest in
venture rounds.
Over the past three years, more than
90% of the startups accepted by the
NY Fashion Tech Lab have been
developing the solutions for the
omni-channel marketing.
*The data in absolute values about the number of active startups, worldwide or per
country, is not published publicly. Angel.co is the only source which provides the
most accurate estimate in terms of ratio of fashion tech startups to the total number
of startups, as compared to other online sources on the topic.
*techcrunch.com
Global Startup Scene in Fashion Tech
Investment Landscape 2/2
Accel Partners is the most active investor in the scene with a portfolio of 9 companies and over USD 250 mlnin investments.
Matrix Partners has the biggest overall amount of investments of more than USD 420 mln.
Most of the investments are made in the e-commerce sector.
Fashion and Wearable Technology:
Case-studies
Collaboration: Ralph Lauren/OMsignal
Features: Ralph Lauren has launched a wearable tech apparel collection,
beginning with a "Polo Tech" shirt that gives biometric feedback to the wearer.
A variety of sensors knitted into garment allow it to measure heart rate (and the
variability thereof), breathing rates, breathing depth, steps and calories burned.
The sensors include an ECG, a breathing sensor and, to clock movement, an
accelerometer and gyroscope. All of that data is recorded in a little black box
attached at the wearer's ribcage and transmitted via Bluetooth to an
accompanying iPhone app. The fabric itself is anti-microbial and moisture-
wicking.
www.ralphlauren.com
Tech
Collaboration: Apple/Hermes
Features: In an attempt to address the critique that Apple has received for the
design of the Apple Watch, the company teamed up with the French luxury
fashion house to produce a range of leather watch bands with a custom digital
face that recalls the Hermes Cape Cod. The reviews have been mildly positive,
stating that the watches are genuinely attractive, looking first like a luxury
watch, and second like a gadget.http://www.apple.com/apple-watch-hermes
Tech
Collaboration: Misfit / Swarovski
Features: Founded in 2011, Misfit Wearables is now a well-established company
initially positioned as a is a hardware company that designs and manufactures
wearable products that utilize sensor technology. Now it is actively
collaborating with fashion houses and designers. One most recent example of
such collaboration is Swarovski activity tracking jewelry.
The Swarovski Activity crystal allows the user to define her personal fitness goal,
track her everyday activities, including running and swimming, check her
activity progress and see stats like steps, calories, and distance on the
smartphone. There is also a social media function that allows the user’s friends
to view each other’s accomplishments and compete.http://misfit.com/products/swarovski-shine
Tech
Collaboration: Open Ceremony/INTEL
Features: The collaboration of the technological giant and a New York based
fashion brand has resulted in creation of the bracelet called MICA ("My
Intelligent Communication Accessory"), which integrates luxury fashion with
technology. The bracelet lets users receive, dismiss, and quick-reply to text
messages, email, and Facebook or Google notifications. Notifications are
received via vibration-based alerts and viewed on a sapphire touchscreen
display through AT&T wireless data service. Features include a curated VIP
contact list and customizable quick replies, eliminating the need to search
through a bottomless handbag or interrupt a meeting or event to address a
mobile device.
www.openingceremony.com
http://www.intel.it/
Tech
Collaboration: Jawbone / BaubleBar
Features: San Francisco based company, the world leader in consumer
technology and wearable devices, Jawbone, entered into collaboration with
the jewelry designer BaubleBar. The BaubleBar team created three styles of
bracelets to fit Jawbone’s Up Move, a device that tracks the user’s activity,
sleep and calories. The bracelets look like watches with a square-shaped face
(to hold the Jawbone wearable) that's accented with studs or crystals.
https://jawbone.com
https://www.baublebar.com
Tech
STELLE AUDIO
Features: The company produces and markets a portable, wirelss, bluetooth
speaker, speakerphone and functional clutch all in one. It offers the best in
sound quality and design. It effortlessly pairs with any Bluetooth-enabled
device, has a built-in speakerphone for hands-free calls, opens to reveal a
mirror, has a pocket for daily essentials, can connect to non-Bluetooth devices
via aux-in jack and if your phone is running out of battery, it can charge any
USB enabled device.
www.stelleaudio.com
Tech
UNDER ARMOUR
Features: The company has released the shoe with the built-in ability to track
the user’s runs. A lightweight, dime-sized chip embedded in the midsole of the
shoes wakes every time the user moves the shoe and senses a run whenever a
person starts moving faster than 11 minutes per mile and begins tracking the
runner using built-in accelerometers that measure the stride dynamics. The
shoes do not require the use of the smartphone, although it is able to transfer all
the stored data to the MapMyRun app (belonging to the company) via
Bluetooth. On the app the user will be able to see the distance, time, and
pace. If not synced with the app, the chip will save up to five runs before
starting to overwrite them.
www.underarmour.com
Tech
Ducere Technologies
Innovative Idea: The Indian startup Ducere Technologies has created the
Lechal sneakers, which insoles the sync with Google Maps and an app to help
the wearer move from one place to another with the help of vibrating alerts in
the wearable device. The vibrations are delivered to the feet from a small
module inside the heel of the shoe. Once you enter your destination onto the
app, you'll get a vibration alert every time you have to turn right or left in your
right or left shoe respectively. Both the insoles and the shoe are connected to
the Smartphone of the wearer via Bluetooth.
Benefits: Easy navigation in unknown places; possibility of group journey, which
allows a group of Lechal users heading to the same destination from different
start-points to link their travel; fitness tracking device. Apart from these features,
it may be used as a navigation tool for people with impaired sight. /www.lechal.com
Tech
Miragii
Innovative Idea: a smart pendant projects a text message or an alert of an
incoming call directly on the user’s hand. If she wants to take the call, she can
insert the Bluetooth earpiece, tucked in the back of the device, in her ear. If she
doesn’t feeling like talking, she can dismiss it with the wave of a hand.
Employing an accompanying app for Android or iOS devices, the wearer can
scroll through text messages or social networking feeds on her hand.
Benefits: it is a perfect accessory for the on-the-go, fashionable woman. Armed
with a tiny projector and a Bluetooth earpiece, it allows the wearer to text and
call without grabbing her smartphone.
www.miragii.com
Tech
OMsignal
Innovative Idea: This Canadian startup has created a family of smart objects
(OM shirt, OM Smart box and OM Smart App) that acts like a personal coach,
making fitness more fun and helping the user to achieve his or her fitness goals
quicker. This technology was used in the Ralph Lauren’s Polo Tech. Apart from
that the company produces the line of its own smart shirts and has just
launched the new smart bra collection.
Benefits: The bra tracks the user’s breathing rhythm, level of fatigue, and
biometric effort and other important criteria. It is made from a blend of
polyester, nylon and elastane. It also serves as an absorbent to pressure, and
reduces stress on the back and shoulders. Mesh panels are integrated on the
front and back of the bra for breathability. The fabrics and meshes are
antimicrobial with sweat-wicking properties to keep you dry.
http://www.omsignal.com
Tech
Hermes Innovation Ltd.
Innovative Idea: SAY device is the first social experience that was specifically
designed for wearables. It incorporates a wearable device into a customized
social network, empowering people to customize the external appearance with
exclusive graphical content of their choice to suit any fad, mood, whim, or
fancy. SAY provides a marketplace for SAY jewelry & accessories to allow
fashionable styles and wear options, and a marketplace for content that can
be downloaded to wear on the Say device.
Benefits: Social Jewelry—a new product line that features designer state-of-the-
art branded wearable devices, along with the added value of engaging
customers via content and messaging within a branded social community
www.saynecklace.com
Tech
SIREN
Innovative idea: New York city based company, SIREN has created a powerful
new category of protective accessories for women, discreetly equipped with a
directional 114+ dB alarm that activates instantly during an emergency. Their
patented modular technology offers consumers an effective, appealing, and
universal resource for effortless wearable security.
Benefits: By concealing miniature patented technology—which, when
activated, emits a shockingly loud alarm—inside jewelry, SIREN empowers
women by providing them with the critical seconds needed to startle,
overwhelm and deter an assailant, and potentially prevent the escalation of an
attack.http://sirenring.com
Tech
CAEDEN
Innovative idea: New York based Caeden created a bracelet that unlike other
activity trackers, focuses on overall well being instead of weight loss or steps.
Sona bracelet monitors subtle changes in heart rate to let the user know when
he or she feels stressed. Then the companion app walks the user through a
designed breathing exercise and meditation program called Resonance to
help you him or her down
Benefits: the bracelet helps users improve mind and body wellness through
activity tracking, being a fashionable accessory that would fit a casual outfit as
well as a cocktail dress.
www.caeden.com
Tech
Leaf Wearables
Innovative Idea: An Indian startup has come up with an idea of SAFER, a smart
safety wearable device that triggers an alarm and sends signals to pre-
identified phone numbers in the event of an emergency.
Benefits: If the user presses their SAFER twice, an alert with the location will be
sent to their respective guardians. A notable feature of SAFER’s app is
SaferWalk, which enables the user to plug in their starting point and destination
if they feel the route is unsafe. The users’ pre-designated individuals can monitor
the map and virtually accompany them until the user has reached their desired
destination, from which point live tracking can be disabled.
www.leafwearables.com
Tech
HIRIS
Innovative Idea: An Italian startup has invented HIRIS, a smartwatch that
allows wearers to control their connected home devices using various gestures
like wrist turning and clapping, as well as many other things like fitness and 3D
tracking.
Benefits: From monitoring one’s heart rate, temperature and fitness
performance to enabling the user to control almost any connected device,
HIRIS is said to be the only wearable computer that brings style and infinite
functionality together as one. As an example of the home automation control,
users can set the watch to turn on a connected light by clapping a few times,
then to turn brighter or dimmer when one's wrist is turned. This same gesture-
based control can be used to turn up music volume and more.https://gethiris.com/
Tech
Fashion and Smart Fabrics:
Case-studies
Collaboration: Google / Levi Strauss
Features: In the Project Jacquard the two companies collaborate on
making clothing from specially woven fabric with touch-screen
control capabilities, which is done by weaving conductive threads
into fabric. Conductivity can be limited to desired parts of fabric or
spread across entire cloth. Conductive yarn is connected to tiny
circuits, no bigger than jacket buttons, with miniaturized electronics
that can use algorithms to recognize touches or swipes.Anything
involving fabric, from suits or dresses to furniture or carpet, could
potentially have computer touch-pad style control capabilities
woven. The data can be sent wirelessly to smartphones or other
devices, enabling actions such as making phone calls or sending
messages with brushes of fabric.
https://www.google.com/atap/project-jacquard/
Smart Fabrics
Collaboration: Colmar / Directa Plus
Features: the new line of clothing launched by Colmar incorporates
graphene, an innovative nanotech material derived from graphite,
using the technology of Directa Plus. Key characteristic of these
clothes is their ability to act as a filter between the body and the
external environment, always ensuring the ideal temperature for the
wearer. The warmth produced by the human body is dispersed in
warm climates and preserved and distributed evenly in cold
climates. In addition, because the fabrics treated with Graphene Plus
are electrostatic and bacteriostatic, they are able to reduce the
friction with air and water to enable top sporting performance.
http://directa-plus.com
Smart Fabrics
Fraunhofer ISC
Features: A novel material developed by Fraunhofer ISC enables
movement measuring sensors to be printed onto textiles. These
sensors were incorporated into a prototype shirt called MONI, which
features a number of functions but is foremost designed to monitor
movement sequences. Since sensor-embedded textile solutions are
more challenging and also more expensive, function usually
overrides appearance. The new materials developed by Fraunhofer
ISC aim to offer a cost-efficient alternative with the extra benefit of
more adjustable appearance options. Thanks to its transparency and
flexibility, the new sensor material offers freedom of design in colour
and form for textiles and garments. As the sensors are much thinner
than a human hair and applicable in whatever form, the wearer will
hardly notice them embedded in a garment, according to the
manufacturer. Smart textiles like this could be employed in health
care or assisted living.
http://www.isc.fraunhofer.de/
Smart Fabrics
XelfleX
Features: Xelflex is a new wearable technology designed by
Cambridge Consultants where the garment itself becomes an active
motion sensor. Xelflex uses bend-sensitive fiber-optic that are stitched
inside the clothing to provide intelligent feedback for athletes
without encumbering them with bulking electronics.
Until now smart fabrics have had multiple electronic sensors, making
them bulky and sensitive to moisture. Xelflex's fiber-optic thread is
robust enough for use in sportswear, with only a small, credit card-
sized, electronics pack being the only other component.
This technology can have a lot of applications, from fitness and sports
coaching to physiotherapy, motion capture for gaming and virtual
reality applications.http://www.cambridgeconsultants.com
Smart Fabrics
CuteCurcuit
Features: CuteCircuit is a UK based company launched in 2004, that
has become an Internationally-known fashion house. A global leader
in interactive fashion, CuteCircuit has introduced many ground-
breaking ideas to the fashion world by integrating new beauty and
functionality through the use of smart textiles and micro-electronics.
One of the examples of such pioneering ideas was the famous Twitter
dress worn by Nicole Scherzinger for her performance at EE 4G
launch in 2012. The dress included the latest CuteCircuit Magic
Fabric with MicroLEDs that created extraordinary animations and
received Tweets in real time from Nicole’s fans using the
#tweetthedress hashtag while she was on the red carpet during the
live stream.
http://cutecircuit.com
Smart Fabrics
Rainbow Winters
Features: Rainbow Winters gives the 'wow' factor to the entertainment, fashion
and advertising industries with interactive wearable design, creating a touch-
sense-sound multisensory experience. Rainbow Winters has a radically different
approach fusing the cutting edge of science with the high-art of fashion to
create visually stunning pieces especially made for music videos, rock-concerts,
award-ceremonies, advertisements, magazine editorial and red-carpet events.
The company creates fabrics and pieces of clothing that react to water, sun,
motion, or sound by changing colour and shape.
http://www.rainbowwinters.com
Smart Fabrics
Ying Gao
Features: This Canadian designer created (NO)WHERE (NOW)HERE
interactive dresses using super organza, photoluminescent thread,
PVDF, and embedded eye tracking technology. The dresses respond
to an observer's gaze by activating tiny motors to move parts of the
dresses in mesmerising patterns. One dress is covered in tendrils of
photo-luminescent thread that dangle from ruched fabric. On the
other, glow-in-the-dark threads form a base layer with fabric cut into
ribbons loosely bunched over the top.
http://yinggao.ca
Smart Fabrics
NeuroCouture
Features: the company created a projection-mapped parka hooked up to
consumer-grade EEG devices. A nearby computer is programmed to detect
certain brainwave patterns, then translate them into an animated GIF—which is
then projected onto the parka as a sort of living animated texture.
NeuroCouture combines projection-mapping and brainwave detection to let
people clothe themselves in their favorite animated files.
www.neurocouture.com
Smart Fabrics
Karma Chameleon
Features: The XSlabs in Canada is developing a collection of interactive
electronic garments constructed out of a new generation of composite fibers
that are able to harness power directly from the human body, store that
energy, and then use it to change their own visual properties. These animated
garments will change color and illuminate on the body in response to physical
movement. The core technical innovation involves shifting this functionality
entirely within the fiber itself. While still in the research phase, the technology
can have multiple applications. It can be used as a portable energy source to
charge cell phones and other electronics. The yarn could be incorporated into
military uniforms to lighten a load of equipment that includes batteries and
wires. It could even be used to warm the wearer, or to change and control the
physical shape of the garment. http://www.xslabs.net/karma-chameleon/site/home.php
Smart Fabrics
Wearable Experiments
Features: Wearable Experiments is an Australian based startup that specialises
in the unique combination of hardware, software and apparel design. The
company has invested in the research and developed prototypes with custom
circuit boards, haptic feedback, integrated GPS and washable electronics.
One example of such product is the Alert Shirt, which merges hardware,
software and apparel design for a seamlessly integrated experience. With the
shirt, these three elements are woven together with real-time sports data, which
is transmitted via a smartphone app to the electronics within the jersey. The
Alert Shirt then converts the data into powerful sensations that simulate live
sports action for the observers who might be scattered around the world but
share the experience.
http://wearableexperiments.com/
Smart Fabrics
ODO Denim
Features: The ODO line, features denim jeans that come in a range of styles
and a white cotton T-shirt. The garments have two self-cleaning properties.
Silver fibres woven into the cotton fabric help combat odours, and a coating
on the surface of the fabric helps repel liquid. The ODO garments are also
coated with a patent-pending material called NanoSphere, which is protein-
based. Each individual yarn is treated and the surface is made irregular by
bonding microscopic nano particles. These particles create a barrier between
liquids and the denim.
http://www.ododenim.com/
Smart Fabrics
VTT
Features: VTT Technical Research Centre of Finland Ltd., a leading research
and technology company in the Nordic countries, has developed a new
technology that takes care of the thermal, moisture and flow-technical
behaviour of smart clothing. It is based on the Human Thermal Model
calculation tool developed by VTT, enabling the calculation of a person's
individual thermal sensation from the prevailing conditions. The technology can
lead to clothes with the ability to automatically adjust temperature according
to the wearer's actual needs. It can also be applied extensively even in
demanding conditions, such as hospitals, nursing homes, and different
consumer groups such as police officers, firemen, soldiers, outdoor workers,
athletes and small babies.www.vttresearch.com
Smart Fabrics
Switch Embassy
Innovative Idea: Switch Embassy is a wearable technology startup in San
Francisco that creates clothing controlled by the wearer via a mobile phone
application. It is done through the illuminated e-textile hardware to software
platform. The images, text and content on the garments are dynamically
changing. This is made possible with the core technology of a mobile controlled
washable and wearable luxurious display that is completely undetectable as
technology.
Benefits: elegant mobile controlled clothing and fabric accessories that
change pattern, imagery, and colors, and are instantly customizable to
person’s outfit, mood, or social feed.
http://switchembassy.com
Smart Fabrics
Wearable Solar
Innovative idea: The Netherlands based company, Wearable Solar, has
created a coat and a dress made of wool and leather, which produce energy
through their integrated solar cells. The coat incorporates 48 rigid solar cells and
the dress has 72 flexible solar cells. When worn in full sun for two hours, both
garments can generate enough energy to allow a typical smartphone to be
100% charged. The solar cell compartments can be opened and revealed to
the sun when needed and folded back when they are not being used.
Benefits: Wearable Solar is a sustainable answer to the increasing demand for
energy and connectivity, while also anticipating the vastly expanding wearable
technology market
http://wearablesolar.nl
Smart Fabrics
UNSEEN
Innovative idea: UNSEEN is a UK based startup that with the use of chemistry
creates fabrics that change colours based on the environment and in response
to touch, heat, light, wind and air pressure. Basis of the technology lies within
scientific compounds and material. The company concepts up scenarios that it
wants the surfaces to respond to and then codes the chemicals to achieve it.
Benefits: The technology used aims to bring a physical manifestation to digital
data. The implications can be manyfold and the process can be used in many
industries outside fashion - healthcare, entertainment, or even aircraft building.
http://seetheunseen.co.uk
Smart Fabrics
Dropel Fabrics
Innovative idea: Dropel Fabrics, based in New York, is the world’s first
hydrophobic (water and stain repellent) ingredient brand. The company infuses
cotton fibers with a patented nanotechnology process to invent water, stain,
and odor repellent fabrics. Its proprietary process maintains the softness and
breathability of the natural fabrics but is enhanced with the protective
properties polyester, without feeling like cardboard.
Benefits: Using process innovation and material science, Dropel Fabric is
creating a new generation of innovative textiles and wearable technology that
can help eliminate stains forever.
www.dropelfabrics.com
Smart Fabrics
Voormi
Innovative idea: Voormi's "Core Construction" is a new production process that
allows the Colorado-based startup to weave a technical membrane straight
into the fabric of a one-layer item of clothing. It’s being called the first major
progress in waterproof, breathable fabrics since the advent of Gore-Tex 46
years ago.
Benefits: Core Construction is adept at deflecting snow and wind, is warm
enough to wear all day on a ski hill, and fits and feels like a sweatshirt. Other
applications might include creating a lightweight body armour, or
improvements in the apparel worn by troops to protect against chemical and
biological threats.
http://voormi.com
Smart Fabrics
CONCLUSIONS
Conclusions: Wearable Technology
The merging of wearable technologies with fashion has taken two different routes.
The producers of various kinds of tracking devices or smart gadgets were looking to add value to their products by making
them appealing for the fashion-loving customers. These devices have different functionalities, from fitness trackers to social
media adaptive gadgets to entertainment to safety buttons; the feature that is common across all functionalities is that the
devices are being integrated into fashionable accessories, such as rings, necklaces and bracelets. The public acceptance
comes with varied success, where some brands are more successful than the others in making their customers fall in love with
their smart fashionable objects. However, judging by the startup scene in this field, such projects remain quite attractive to
the investors.
The forward thinking designers and manufacturers prefer another way of marrying fashion with technology - through research,
experimentation and creation of smart fabrics. Here, the possibilities are innumerable, as the development of the technology
will provide new ways and ideas to create the fabrics that will have the same and even better functionality that the gadgets
are able to provide today. There is a lot of research and development going on globally on this subject; we see the
established brands actively exploring this field and expect it to grow in the near future.
Conclusions: Current Trends in Fashion Industry
Although the fashion industry has previously been relatively slow to embrace technology compared to many others industries, the impact that
the technology is beginning to have for the future of fashion is immense. The next generation of fashion leaders is changing the way technology
and fashion works together to create a more sustainable future.
Relevance and staying up to date makes the fashion houses change not only their supply chain practices, but also their marketing and human
resources strategies. The brands are trying to keep up with the acceleration of their consumers’ lives, influenced heavily by social media.
More and more fashion brands implement the innovative processes within their supply chain, in order to save resources, reduce waste, and stay
socially responsible. The industry develops new standards and certifications to encourage this environmentally responsible behavior.
Fashion houses are shifting the production cycle in order for the customers to be able to buy the current collections straight from the catwalk.
Major fashion houses are parting ways with their signature designers in order to bring in the people who are able to communicate the brand
message through different channels, as opposed to through the product itself.
Retailers are pursuing every possible way to contact and interact with their customers through the most touchpoints possible, both offline and
online, by exploring and implementing innovative technologies.
There is a shift from merging wearable gadgets and fashion objects to researching and experimenting with the technology embedded into the
fabrics and textiles.
Study carried out exclusively for Intesa Sanpaolo Innovation Center
All rights reserved.
The partial or full reproduction, use, distribution, publication, transmission, amendment
or sale of all or part of these document by any means and for any reason whatsoever is
forbidden.
For any request, please contact [email protected]