GLAM February 2013 issue

7/29/2019 GLAM February 2013 issue

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editor sindhu nair

chie ashion correspondent debrina aliyah

senior correspondents abigail mathias

ezdhar ibrahim ali

rory coen

correspondent ola diab

photographer rob altamirano

senior art director venkat reddy

deputy art director hanan abu siam

assistant art director ayush indrajith

senior graphic designer maheshwar reddy b

senior manager marketing zulikar jiry

assistant managers - marketing chaturka karandana

thomas jose

senior media consultant hasan rekkab

lydia yousse

marketing research & support executive kanwal baluch

senior accountant pratap chandran

sr. distribution executive bikram shrestha

distribution support arjun timilsina

bhimal rai

basantha.p

publisher and editorinchie yousu jassem al darwish

chie executive sandeep sehgalexecutive vice president alpana roy

vice president ravi raman

GLAM is pubLished by Oryx AdvertisinG cO. WLL.the contents of this pUBlication are sUBject to copYright and cannot Be

reprodUced withoUt the express permission of the pUBlisher and/or license holder.

all rights rest wi th datalog media solUtions. the pUBlisher does not accept

responsiBilitY for anY a dvertising contents carried in this pUBlication.

contact [email protected], [email protected]

www.issUU.com/orYxmags

www.faceBook.com/glamqatar

call Us: +974 44550983, 44672139, 44671178, 44667584 fax: +974 44550982

Online

editiOn

EVENTS OF THE MONTH

COMING UP

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G t

There has never Been a more exciting time than now to report on the

growth of fashion in this region. if there is one thing that the world

Underestimates, it is the force of creativitY driving the YoUng people

here amidst headlines of political instaBilitY and perceived cUltUral

oppression. after the BreakthroUgh of regional coUtUre designers

like zUhair mUrad and elie saaB to the international aUdience, it is

now time for YoUng dYnamic pret-a-porter designers to take center

stage. mUscat fashion week 2013 showed Us conceptUal designs

from ahmed talfit and commercial offerings of das collections

and razan alazzoUni.

here in qatar, oUr talents are shoUting loUder than ever to have

their voice heard. contemporarY qatari designers inclUding salz a

rahman, waad ali, fahad al oBaidlY and moza jaY are the new wave ofdesigners who will soon Become the fashion faces of the coUntrY.

this is a prelUde to a verY exciting Year for the local fashion

movement with manY new initiatives to Bring new talents to light.

glam is verY honoUred to Be part of this new movement and we

cannot wait to tell YoU more in oUr coming issUes.

in the meantime, we paY homage now to the one trend that will

never go oUt of fashion in this region. we Bring the Best from the

affordaBle to the lUxUrY and especiallY the handmade pieces from

homegrown talents.

editOrs PiCkQATAR-BASED DEMI-COuTuRE LABELTOujOuRI HAS DONE uS PROuD AT MuSCAT

FASHION WEEk 2013. HAILED AS ONE OF THE

MOST ESTABLISHED BRAND TO SHOW AT THE

EVENT, DESIGNER LAMA EL-MOATASSEM

CuRATED A DREAMY SHOW WITH GORGEOuS

PIECES THAT SHOWCASE INTRICATE AND

DETAILED BEADING, EMBROIDERIES AND

STRuCTuRE. ALTHOuGH THE BRAND HAS

REACHED INTERNATIONAL RECOGNITION WITH

CELEBRITIES INCLuDING FLORENCE WELSH AS

BIG FANS, THE VERY HuMBLE AND BuBBLY

LAMA STILL ATTENDS PERSONALLY TO CLIENTS

WHO DROP BY HER STORE AT THE PEARL

QATAR. IT HAS BEEN A LONG FRuITFuL

jOuRNEY THAT LAMA HAS PERSEVERED ON,

BuT IT IS THIS DETERMINATION THAT SHE

HOPES TO INSPIRE IN OTHER EMERGING

DESIGNERS FROM QATAR.


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AJOyful

WORLDcompiled by debrina aliyahcAtAcLOu latstuds embellishedcal and straw

wedge

1

34

5

6 7

2duFOurAuschia neonsandals

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lOUBOUtiN StORE iNVillAggiO AND cHEck OUt

tHESE cHEERFUl gEMS.


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glAM BRiNgS FRONt ROW REPORtS FROM

tHE MUScAt FASHiON WEEk 2013 WHicH SAW

12 DESigNERS PRESENt SPRiNg SUMMER 2013

cOllEctiONS. tHE EVENt iS PARt OF tHE ANNUAlMUScAt FEStiVAl AND iS FOcUSED ON BEcOMiNg

A NEW PlAtFORM tO cUltiVAtE tHE BURgEONiNg

FASHiON iNDUStRy iN tHE REgiON.

by debrina aliyah

fashiOnCrusade

Heraldinga regional


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RUNWAy REPORt /73

see how Muscat will eventually be the regional fashion hubthat it is vying for. Some of the best showings at the recentMuscat Fashion Week 2013 came from its homegrowndesigners who demonstrated a certain level of capacitythat gave a hint of something bigger, perhaps a strike atinternational markets. The exceptional passion and supportof the Muscat Municipality, the organisers of the fashionweek, also proves the states intent in creating a platform forfashion beyond just staging a glamourous affair.

This is the third year the event has been running and 2013shines the spotlight on 12 region-based designers from theUAE, Tunisia, Qatar, Saudi Arabia, Jordan, Morocco andof course, Oman. The selection of designers was variedand included labels of different influences and appealingto different segments of the market. While the commercialsectors were well-represented by familiar names like DASCollection and Mauzen, Tunisian designer Ahmed Talfit wasthe vanguard of an exciting new design movement from theregion. The eclectic fashion perspective that was sent downthe runway is such a promising indication of the creativecampaign that is bubbling away in the region.

But what really struck a chord with me after reviewingall the collections was the ability of these designers topreserve the Arabian elements of their heritage and mergewith it international silhouettes. There is a tendency forregional designers to make a distinction between designingtraditionally or exclusively in the contemporary genre.Plainly speaking, the question always revolves around, Are

you an abaya designer or not? But what the collections at theevent had proved was that it is possible to now present theArab design in a modern light that would appeal to a wideraudience. Omani stalwarts Afaf and Aida Al Farsi of the labelDibaj married the colourful and vivid fabrics of their heritagewith soft feminine cuts of the Victorian era.

Having said that, not all collections were deliberated for aglobal audience. The sartorial framework of the Arab worldis such that the traditional influence will always remainconsistent and unique to the region.

Set against the gorgeous landscape of Al-Riyam Park, withthe catwalk sandwiched between rock formations and alake, Muscat Fashion Week 2013 is a new glimmering lightfor designers bridging the future of fashion with their richcomplex heritage.

i c

using the gorgeousnatural landscape as

part o the event.

the set-up atal riyam park

macs senior artistvimi joshi at workbackstage

exhibition space ordesigners to meetbuyers

rehearsalsunderway

renowned ashionjournalist hillaryalexander andashion blogger talasamman at the event


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THE QATARREPRESENTATION:

tOuJOurithe talented lama el-moatassem otoujouri spearheaded the team torepresent qatar at the eventpresenting a select edit o thebrands spring summer 2013collections which had alreadybeen snapped up by trade buyers inparis. the collection, named

relections, had strong accentso shades o green with intricatebeading details on sot emininecuts. at the exhibition post-show,lama says her metallic belts wento the shelves like hot cakes.

FuN AND FLIRTY

rAZAn ALAZZOunithis saudi-based designer has

already garnered ans amongcelebrities including emma roberts,kelly osbourne and ashley tinsdale.the collection had a un and lirtyattitude perusing loral appliques

and louncy cuts. beyond the youngvibes underlies strong abric

manipulation techniques rom thedesigner who had obviously

beneited much rom her excellentartistic ormal training in ine arts.

01

02


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STRONGOMANI ROOTS

dibAJsisters aa and aida al arsi orm the

design powerhouse o oman, dibaj. theluxurious collection o capes, lowing

dresses and drape cuts are consistent intheir all-yearlong ashion calendar. weare working around the clock, not only

two seasons a year but also orwedding seasons and eid! says aa.there were stunning pieces in velvet

which is a staple or omani women butreinterpreted in modern jumpsuits and

dresses. dibaj couture also pays homageto some serious jewellery piec es that

inds its roots in omani cu lture.

03

BEYOND ABAYAS

MAuZAnthe much established mauzanspearheaded by sheikha raia helal bindrai and her daughter, mauzan who shenamed the brand ater, needs nointroduction. shortly ater showing atparis, mauzan made a beeline to herworkshop to create an entire new

collection or muscat. i gave it muchthought and decided i should come upwith new pieces or this show. this isthe irst time i have shown an all newabric that i created with the ateliers ineurope. we are deinitely moving beyondabayas now. we now r each out towomen rom all around the world whowould look at the abaya as a ashionitem rather than as a culturalgarment, sheikha raia says.

04


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FuTuRISTIC AND FuNkY

AhMed tALFitwithout a d oubt, ahmed talitscollection was the mostanticipated show at the event byashion editors. the tunisiandesigner had already made a markwithin industry circles as theavant-garde boy wonder. hepresented a deeply mysterious andmeaningul collection ocusingon structural orms and bodyconsilhouettes. i was particularlytaken by the use o athletickneeguards as shoulder pads. andthough the uturistic theme maynot be the most commerciallyviable in this region, thecollection was very wearable andwould deinitely see successamong the more style-inclinedcrowd.

LOCAL INFLuENCEGOES GLOBAL

endeMAGe

a very young omani label designedby two equally young sisters

shows much promise presenting acollection o sweeping

loor-length dresses with an edgytouch. laser cut capes, structuredshoulders, and mermaid tail gowns

gives the label an internationalappeal. even with the traditionalinluences, the designs would it

perectly into a global portolio.

05

06


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DRESSED TO kILL

cest MOidubai-based cest moi is curated

by the very spirited and zestyrushme kumari and is a mainstay in

uaes ashion scene. the brandpresented a select edit o pieces

at the event which trulyrepresented the brands

commitment to producing classicoolproo cocktail dresses.

07

A FASHIONPOT POuRRI

ZhOr rAiszhor rais premiered her irstcollection in a private show in muscat25 years ago and this year shereturned with a repertoire that ullyencompasses the moroccan woman. acouture brand that ocuses on strong

tailoring and technique work tohighlight the diversity o moroccanashion, zhor is now supported by herdaughter chadia rais. this repertoiretruly brings orward all the staplesand designs that are relevant to everywoman in morocco, rom the specialalgerian serlual (drop crotch pants)to indian jodpurs and salwars, this isthe representation o the melting potthat we are, chadia says.

08


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ICE QuEEN

tAtyAnA AceevAthe jordan-based designer workedon her ss13 collection with theice queen in mind. not the evi l part,just the sartorial inspiration. itis very eminine and romantic. i usea lot o georgette abrics withswarovski crystals. my work hasalways been about brin ging outthe emininity in women. and alsoto show that even arab designerscan be c ontemporary, tatyanasays. her intricate work leans onthe side o couture.

OPEN FOR CHANGE

nAWAL AL hOOtithe traditional omani embroidery

on a super short denim mini skirtwas shocking but it was a move

orward or the designer inembracing a more modern outlook.

nawal has just opened her newstore within opera galleria, the

new luxury mall in muscat, and islooking to diversiy her designs.

the runway collection was a mix osheer resort-inspired tops with

minis and traditional katans.

09

10


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GROWING IN DESIGN

dAs cOLLectiOnthe beljala sisters have grownleaps and bounds in their design

process. the ss13 collectionshowed much thought and

concept and was presented in avery deining manner o the

brands identity. unique abricchoices including metallic

printed jerseys on drape cut

silhouettes and also akimono-inspired jumpsuit in

embroidered silk are some othe winning elements o the

collection.

FASHION ISTRADTIONAL

kAnZia collaboration betweensheikha amal al maktoum andraghda taryam, kanzipresented a collection oabayas, katans, and evenin gwear. the label also takesorders or couture weddingdresses and has shown atvarious ashion weeks in thetrade shows and bride shows.

FASHiON / 29


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Colour theBlaCk

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BlAck DRESS iN yOUR

WARDROBE iS tHE UltiMAtE

VERSAtilE PiEcE FOR AlMOSt

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tWO WAyS FOR yOU tO SPicE

UP yOUR BlAck NUMBER

EitHER WAy yOUR BUDgEt

PERMitS.

compiled by debrina aliyah

all items available rom h&m

allit

emsavailablefrom

net-a-porter

spiked dropearrings - qr25

lanvin crystal-embellishedsatin-covered metal

rame clutch -qr7300

two tier spikednecklace - qr54pair o geometric

bangles - qr36

patent leatherankle boots - qr181

jimmy choo lindawatersnake

sandals - qr2700

pink ombre ovalclutch with gold

chain - qr108

weston agateprinted silk-

satin scar - qr900

oscar de la renta24-karat gold-plated

swarovski crystalclip earrings - qr1500

FASHiON /29

SAVE

VsSPLURGE

AccESSORiES / 39


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AccESSORiES /39

THATTRANSCENDSTIME

was a time when every piece of jewellery was painstakingly craftedand lovingly guarded to be passed on from one generation to another.A stark contrast from modern days more is more concept ofaccessorising, every piece of jewellery held its own significance andvalue garnering a sense of appreciation deeper than just meets theeye. While the couture jewellery industry is a little less talked aboutthan its fashion counterpart, the sense of revival is strong with manyconnoisseurs seeking out the experience of crafting highly customised

luxury gems. Couture jeweller Bina Goenka is one such talent, drivingthe force of creating timeless pieces and redefining the meaning ofluxury jewellery.

Tell us about the inspiration behind your brandMy inspiration has always stemmed from the magnanimous gloryof nature in sync with the abstract renditions of geometry, and thewonder created by the amalgamation of the two. Inspiration is alsodrawn from my client, who is supremely confident, is a trendsetter.and who exudes the essence of contemporary elegance. She trusts me

to design something to match her needs and personality.

How has the couture jeweller y indu stry evolved in recent years? What aresome of your new markets?The couture jewellery industry has always been existent and is

t

by debrina aliyah


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evolving even more strongly now. Today peopleunderstand workmanship, quality and expertise. Moreand more people want design and bespoke pieces.Middle Eastern and European markets are our primetargets.

Can you explain the process of designing a bespoke piece foryour clients? How do you cultivate your relationship withthem to understand what they would like?My clients trust me implicitly to create a statement pieceof jewellery that will do them justice. It is a mixture oftheir personality and my design aesthetics. The processusually entails my client explaining what they have inmind and then the rest is left to me. There is, of course,a synergy of thoughts that leads to the final creation.

It is a relationship based on trust and experience andslowly experimenting with styles that we feel wouldsuit them. Each piece of jewellery created is a journey,and the client is involved in the process at every stage.

Do you currently have a market in the Middle East? Howdo you think the Middle Eastern culture and beauty mightinspire your pieces?Yes, I have clients across the whole of the GCC regionand I envision a 2013 launch in the Middle East as

part of our expansion plans. The basic flavour of myjewellery synergises itself seamlessly with the MiddleEastern market. I have always been an ardent admirerof the Arab womans fashion sense - their distinct senseof style and their flamboyance. I am an avid traveller

and have always been exposed to the fine quality andintricate designs by the worlds best jewellers and theMiddle East is no different.

How would you advise your clients to choose coutu rejewellery pieces that will eventually be heirlooms for the

next generation?My customers, no matter where they are geographicallylocated, are very similar. My jewellery pieces are notsubject to any particular country or region but ratherhave a universal appeal. My pieces are created for thetrendsetter and they exude the essence of elegancewhilst retaining a timeless and classic feel. Thereforemy pieces transcend time and geographical locations tobecome an heirloom in itself.

What is your personal style like?Strong, uncluttered and flamboyant.

How would you style your jewellery pieces for day-to-daywear basis or for a special occasion outfit?All my pieces work well with formal as well as smartcasuals as the women who I design for wears jewelleryeasily as their personality is intrinsically flamboyant.

How can interested clients in Qatar contact you?Welcome parties can either visit my flagship storein Mumbai at the Grand Hyatt Hotel personally oralternatively get in touch through my website www.binagoenka.com

My

Jewellerypieces are not subjectto any particularcountry or region

but rather have auniversal appeal.

AccESSORiES / 41


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BaGscHANgiNg tHE

WORlD ONE BAg At

A tiME. iF it SOUNDStOO gOOD tO BE

tRUE, tHEN yOU

HAVE NOt MEt tHE

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glOBAl.

bAGsnOb:

by debrina aliyah

AccESSORiES /41


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fashion girl walks a fine line between functionalityand style when it comes to buying bags. While wesecretly covet the most practical jumbo carry-all thatis lightweight, the temptation of the butter soft calfleather with crazy studs lures us over to the dark side.And if that is not dilemma enough, these days, we seek

out pieces that might b e a vintage treasure, investmentpieces that will last a lifetime, specialleathers that might be worthy of anheirloom versus everything that isfun and trendy. So who should weseek advice from on matters such asthis?

Two bag-obsessed stylepersonalities, Tina Craig and KellyCook, started BagSnob, a blog

focusing on bag editorials, a fewyears back as a fun platform forbag fans to discuss and share theircommon love of bags. But whatmakes them different from manyother bloggers is their genuinepassion and knowledge for all thingsbag-related. The approach wasfriendly and readers could relate

to their personalised voice on eachbag they wrote about. The blogtoday has expanded to include otheraccessories and comes under theSnob Media Global umbrella. ForGlam's special accessories issue,Tina and Kelly talk about theirobsession.

How is the chemis try be tween the two of you? How does

the friendship translate into the running of Snob MediaGlobal?We complement each other perfectly, we havedifferent strengths and weaknesses and thosecombined seems to make the ideal team. Having your

best friend as a partner has allowed us to do the kindof give and take that is essential to any partnership, wedon't argue about the small things and always covereach other's back. The support system has been theonly way we have been able to build this companywhile raising our children.

The blog has become one of the biggest fashionreference points today. What has been some memorableachievements, milestones for you?Our first milestone was being in British Vogue, thatwas incredible especially because that was in our f irstyear. We always love it when notable fashion editors(who shall remain nameless) come to us for advice onwhat bags to buy. The interaction with our fans hasbeen our most valued achievement. Someone told

us she has saved money over the years by followingour advice of buying investment pieces, so instead ofbuying five to six throw away bags a year, she buys oneor two bags that she will keep forever.

What was it like to collaborate with established namessuch as DKNY and DL1961? Did you imagine that theblog would have been such a success and gathered so muchclout?

That was the most fun we had! It allowed us to useour expertise in a creative process. The best part wasworking with industry leaders and experts who do allthe boring stuff like production tech packs, while wefocused on the fun part, design!

What should fashion blogs do to maintain credibility andbe taken seriously?Passion! Passion! Passion! Without it you will notbe able to excite your readers. It is something that

cannot be faked. Also, fact checking. Like all crediblejournalists, you have to make sure the information youare giving is true.

Can you share with us how you two have turned the blog

eVery

Our firstmilestonewas being

in BritishVogue,

that wasincredibleespecially

because thatwas in ourfirst year.

AccESSORiES / 43


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into Snob Media Global, consolidating and monetisingit, making it a true breakthrough in the world of fashionblogging?We were very lucky with our timing, we were oneof the f irst professional fashion blogs on the scene,so we were able to capture a very loyal following.

Our readers are true shoppers because we aim to beinformative and help ful with our reviews, it isn't justabout what we are wearing ourselves; it is also aboutthe bags and products we feature. Our readers arenot only interested in what they should be wearing,but what we are wearing as well which we share withthem through social media channels like Twitter andInstagram. This has been a huge factor in why wehave been able to successfully monetise, we have thebiggest luxury shoppers in the world coming to us to

see what to buy next.It also helps that we are both business-minded

people who also love fashion. We have alwaysconducted ourselves professionally and it has openeda lot of doors for us. When p eople meet us, they expectus to be vapid young girls and they are pleasantlysurprised to discover that we know how to run abusiness.

What is your personal style like?Kelly I am sporty and casual. I love to dress up buteven so, I am a mini skirt or leather pants kind of girl. Ido love a good maxi-dress here and there.Tina Eclectic. I love mixing high- low, and amaddicted to vintage couture. Roland Mouret andVictoria Beckham dresses are my go to basics as aresuper skinny DL 1961 x Bag Snob jeans.

What are your all-time favourite Day and Night Bags?

Kelly Day: Hermes Evelyn;Night: a crocodile clutchTina Day: Hermes Kelly bag the optionalshoulder/crossbody straps make it easy to use nomatter what my day is like. Night: Alexander McQueenskull clutches in different incarnations

wewerevery luckywith our

timing, wewere oneof the firstprofession-al fashion

blogs on thescene, so wewere ableto capturea very loyalfollowing.

AccESSORiES /43

44 \ AccESSORiES


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44 \ AccESSORiES

STYLING

tiPs01WhAt Advise WOuLd yOu GirLsGive tO sOMebOdy WhOsstArtinG Out A bAGcOLLectiOn? sOMe tips FOr AninvestMent cOLLectiOn, AndsOMe tips FOr A FAshiOncOLLectiOn.

this is a very good question and isthe reason why we created the iveessentials strategy or collectingbags: tote, treasure, trendy, traveland clutch. you must have one oeach o these and rom there youcan expand especially in the toteand the clutch categories.as ar as speciic bags or yourcollection, it all depends on your

budget and preerence. we preerbrands that oer lielongclassics; chanel (classic lap or2.55), hermes (birkin or kelly),bottega veneta (veneta or cabas),valextra (namaste or babila). theseare true investments, in price andlongevity. in the long run, it willpay o.

02this phenOMenOn OF 'it' bAGsWhAt dO yOu tWO reA LLythink AbOut this? dO yOuthink its WOrth it thAt Werush Out every tiMe A neWbAG cOMes ALOnG?

deinitely, do not rush out and buyevery declared 'it' bag. there aremany reasons but the mostimportant ones to keep in mind are:it is deemed by opinion not act; itwill most likely be a lash in thepan; and it will be on everyone'sarms so why would you s pend a lotmoney on something everyoneincluding countereiters will have?but having said that, i it is a bagthat you love and obsess over, getit. always have your ow n reasonsother than what the masses tellyou.

03On A dAiLy bAsis, hOW dO yOudecide Which bAGs tO use FOrthe dAy?

ashion and unction. it obviouslyneeds to go with what i'm wearing(which is dependent on mood) andwhere i am going. i i am goin g todisneyland with my kids and eventhough my birkin is the perect wayto dress up my tee shirt and jeans, iwill not be carrying that to anamusement park. but mostly, it ishow i eel.

04WhAt dO yOu hAve in yOurbAGs At the MOMent? thetruth, WhAt dO yOu FAbuLOusGirLs FiLL yOur bAGs With?

kELLY- wallet, iphone, cos meticpouch, baby wipes (you can neverget over the convenience o themeven ater diapers), some game/toy/activity or the kids, keys but nevera pen, which can explode and leadto a very broken hearted bag snob!

TINA- a very handy bag organiserrom jane inds.com called thebaginizer. it holds my wallet,iphone, cosmetic pouch, as well aspens pouches so when it doesexplode- only the bagnizer is

stained! it also makes it very easyor me to change bags rom day today or night.


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GlaM

trendrePOrt

tHE SS13 cOllEctiONS ARE HittiNg

StORES AND WE SPOt tRENDS tO

lOOk OUt FOR tHiS SEASON.

compiled by debrina aliyah

GeOMetrySqUARES, liNES,

cHEckERBOARD, ANDgRiDS. gEt liNEAR WitH

tHESE PickS FROM MARc

jAcOBS, lOUiS VUittON,

EMPORiO ARMANi.

01

46 \ FASHiON


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EAStERN HERitAgE iN FASHiON. tHEONSlAUgHt OF EAStERN iNFlUENcES

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MeshA clASSiER REiNcARNAtiON OF tHE

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04

HERitAgE /47


22/41

THE

CONDUCTOROF HAUTE

COUTURE

bALenciAGA:

by debrina aliyah

tHE ONE lEgENDARy cOUtURiER WHO WAS

WiDEly RESPEctED AND HElD iN HigH REgARD By HiS

PEERS, cRiStOBAl BAlENciAgA cONcEPtUAliSEDDESigN WORkS tHAt BEcAME PiVOtAl MilEStONES

iN tHE PROgRESSiON OF FASHiON HiStORy. cOcO

cHANEl REMARkED, HE iS tHE ONly tRUE cOUtURiER

AMONg US, WHilE cHRiStiAN DiOR SAiD,

HAUtE cOUtURE iS likE AN ORcHEStRA,

WHOSE cONDUctOR iS BAlENciAgA.


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to a seamstress mother who worked for Spanish highsociety, Balenciaga quickly learned the intricacies of fineEuropean fashion through his mothers clients. Growing upin such an environment cultivated his love for the art whichnaturally steered him in the direction of haute couture.After finishing his apprenticeship in San Sebastian, hebegan working at Grandes Almacenes Au Louvre andquickly rose through the ranks due to his talent. In 1914,he moved to Bordeaux, France to work in a tailoring shop.

A few years later, Balenciaga opened his own house backin San Sebastian and thus began his career in designing for

the high society of Spain. Working with the silhouettes ofthe time which were still very much influenced by Victorianelements, Balenciaga counted numerous diginitaries,including Queen Maria Cristina and Infanta IsabelAlfonsa, as his supporters. He ran a haute couture salon

alongside a dressmaking establishment which flourisheduntil the proclamation of the Second Spanish Republic.The new state led to the exile of many of his customerswhile social and political circumstances did not permit theluxury of haute couture.

The study of Balenciagas work at this period of timeis one that is intertwined with Spains political journey.Changing the strategy of his business, he focused onsimple dressmaking and subsequently opened storesin Madrid and Barcelona. However, the outbreak of theSpanish Civil War halted his progress and Balenciaga left

for Paris where he resumed couture work. On August 5,1936, he presented his first haute couture collection at 10Avenue George V in Paris to wide acclaim. This markedthe beginning of Balenciagas fame as possibly one of thebest couturiers who have ever lived. At this juncture of

so

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his career Balenciaga had worked towards deep historicalinfluence and understanding of his culture with collections

that referenced 17th-century fashion of the Second FrenchEmpire as well as historical Spanish fashion. He focusedon spectacular evening wear adorned with magnificentembroidery and passementerie which was a staple ofhigh society in Spain. However, as the years progressed,Balenciaga became increasingly experimental and beganworking on new silhouettes that were rather forwardthinking.

alenciagas most importantcontribution to fashionsilhouettes included theintroduction of the barrel lineand the sack dress, which wasan antithesis to the New Lookpopularised by Christian Diorat that period of time. Thisremains one of the most pivotalcreations in fashion history asit was Balenciaga who gave rise

to this alternative silhouette that is now much adoptedby contemporary avant garde designers. While the NewLook celebrated femininity that very much referred to astandard hourglass figure, the shapeless form createdby Balenciaga was a design that flattered all body types.

The shapeless form instead brought the focus back intosymmetrical tailoring and fabric manipulation.

Balenciaga continued his work in creating abstract andclean forms and in 1958, textile house Abraham createda high-twist double yarn plain weave fabric with a crisptexture called Gazar to cater to the designers highlysculptural work. He went on to present more interestingnew works including short jackets and increasingly moreabstract pieces throughout the rest of his career. Balenciagapresented his last collection in spring 1968 and passedaway peacefully in 1972 right after working on a speciallycommissioned wedding dress for the future Duchess ofCadiz.

The House of Balenciaga TodayIn 1986, Jacques Bogart acquired the rights to Balenciagaand opened a new ready-to-wear line with the firstcollection designed by Michael Goma. In 1992, JosephusThimister began work at the house shaping what thebrand would be today. Five years later, Nicolas Ghesquieretook over the helm and the brand catapulted into the

limelight again retaining a signature look that is edgy andsophisticated.

Balenciaga is now owned by the Gucci Group as part ofPPR and Alexander Wang has just been named the newcreative director for the brand.

all imagescourtesy o museobalenciaga, spain

B


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DESIGNING

FORart

qAtARS VERy OWNDESigNER

SAlz A RAHMAN

PRESENtS HiS

lAtESt cOllEctiON

by debrina aliyah

we love most about emerging designersfrom this part of the world is the limitlessimagination and ideas that go beyond thenorm of contemporary everyday wear.Perhaps it is the need to break away fromthe uniform traditional attire, or perhaps it

is the environment that conjures fantasy inthe form of escapism. Whatever it is, we areembracing them with wide open arms andour current favourite is Qatari designer, SalzA Rahman.

w

glAM FOcUS /55


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the newCOlleCtiOn

"My new collection explores the happier sideas compared to the previous collection which

was very dark. I wanted to bring excitementto the classic suit and give it a sportier edge.The designs brings life to the classic suit sothat younger clients can look smart withoutcoming across as too serious or boring."


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the desiGnJOurney

"I started designing because I wanted toinspire my mother and sister to think out of

the box and to explore their creative side.I wanted to show them that everything is

possible. My humble start and the positivefeedback from others have pushed them

now to start designing for Salzakih Couture.I appointed my mother as the Managing

Director and got my sister involved in thecompany too. I literally wanted to bring us

together in something we love to do. My

designs are always going to be a bit edgyand would only appeal maybe to a more

daring customer. I always say that I designfor art rather than business but it has to be

wearable."

glAM FOcUS /57


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shOP nOw"I am still on the hunt for the best placethat I might partner with to showcase mydesigns. Designing and marketing menswearis still a very tricky business in this city, but I

am accepting custom orders. You can get meat [email protected] and we can sit themdown and discuss how I can best tailor thedesign to your taste. I understand each clientis an individual and wants to feel special."


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fashioneditor

:debrinaaliyah

visualdirecto

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lexandra

lighting:kevin

mclvor

makeup:debim

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hair:blancam

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StylE POSt /71


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MusicI am listening to Alt-J, XX band, 90s junglemusic, reggae based music inspired by my20-year-old son. It is very eclectic and notquite reflective of my age.

destinAtiOnI would love to go back to the SeychellesIsland. It is idyllic with white sand and gi-

ant tortoises - a real rarity these days. Alsolooking forward to visiting South America,definitely. I visit the Middle East and Asiaa lot for work and have not had the chanceto visit South America, so it is definitely onmy list.

hOMeI have been spending a lot of time working

on my new home. It is an early Victorian vil-la. I had it stripped out to refurnish and re-design the interiors. Finally after two years,the work is done!

There is a lot of mid-century furniture. I

went to a lot of Italian and French auctionsto get contemporary arts and paintings.

styLeI love wearing Lanvin, it is quirky yet classic.I have always loved fashion but after a cer-tain age I have to tone it down. I was defi-nitely a childhood punk. Grew up in late 70swith new romanticism and all that jazz. Im

really not your average 50-year-old jeweller.

peOpLeI love Alber Ebaz - he is creative and hasdone a brilliant job for Lanvin. Also love allthe Japanese designers including CommeDe Garcons. Basically I love people whostick to their guns and do not get draggedoff course for commercial reasons.

qAtArI love the Museum of Islamic Arts which Ihave visited several times. The architectureis amazing and inspiring.

Live Life

kinG-sizetHERE iS A cERtAiN AiR OF WORlDliNESS

ABOUt BOND StREEt jEWEllER jEREMyMORRiS. tHE 40-SOMEtHiNg yEAR

OlD SON OF DAViD MORRiS ExUDES A

cOMBiNAtiON OF BAD BOy cHARM AND

gENtlEMANly ViVRE DE jOUR APPROAcH

tO liFE AND BUSiNESS.

by debrina aliyah


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FASHION,

FUN

fOOdby debrina aliyah

cHEF ViNEEt BHAtiAOF SAFFRON lOUNgE

ADMitS HiS cOOkiNg

AND HiS SENSE OF

StylE iS EqUAlly AS

cOlOURFUl

ExPERiENcE /103


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with a larger-than-life personality and even bettertastebuds, Vineet Bhatia continues to charm the worldas the tireless champion of Indian cuisine. Bringing a

different perspective to the table, Chef Vineet is slowlybut surely changing the face of Indian food and making itaccessible to culinary fans everywhere. He wants everyoneto know that eating Indian food does not have to be a scaryspicy adventure but a warming comfort food experiencethat will leave you with good memories.

Having been appointed as culinary ambassador toQatar Airways and heading the kitchen of Saffron Loungeat Katara Cultural Village, Chef Vineet has cultivated aclose relationship with this country. He has whipped up

unique interpretations of Indian dishes at the restaurantand watched endless amount of guests leave happy. Theconnection, he feels, is the similarity between Arabic andIndian cuisine in terms of flavours, spices and texture. Andnow fans can get even more of his cooking expertise onTwist of Taste, a Fox Traveller food series documenting histravels around India to discover new dishes.

What exciting new things can we look forward to at Saffron

Lounge n ow?We have a new menu incorporating dishes that have beenvery popular or specially requested before. During theIndian Street Food Festival a couple of months back, weshowcased these new dishes in a tapas style setting andthe guests loved them. The tapas style is great for groupsof 4 or 5 - they got to try out different dishes in a friendlyatmosphere. There are some dishes to look out for in thenew menu including the slow cooked lamb with lime andprawns from Kerala. And of course, you can still find our

all-time bestsellers lamb chops, kulfis, chocolate samosasand butter chicken, cheese samosas and lassi.Saffron Lounge is different in promoting its cuisine andattracts a diverse crowd. Why is that?My philosophy has always been to present Indian cuisinein a way that would be suited to international taste buds.Having Indian food does not need to be a spicy traumaticexperience that will end in hours in the bathroom

afterwards. Unfortunately, this is the perception thatmany people have! We tailor recipes to local tastes butwe maintain flavours and authenticity. Flavourful doesnot only mean spiciness but a combination of all otheringredients. This is the reason why a diverse group of

diners are attracted to the cuisine in Saffron Lounge,we give them a good experience by just producing reallygood comfort food. The restaurant setting is also very

comfortable and family-oriented which makes it popularwith locals. The ladies can come and enjoy the privacy andcomfort the restaurant offers.

Where do you find new inspirations?I travel all around India looking for new inspirations. Thecuisine has so much depth.It is like a treasure box! I amlearning new things every timeI set off on a trip. From one part

of India to another, the cookingstyles are all technically verydifferent and it changes acrossthe region. I pick up newdishes and learn and adaptthem to my restaurants. I amvery open minded to learningand exploring new styles andtechniques.

What is your personal style likewhen you are out of your chefsoutfit?My style is very casual, funkyand friendly. I love collaredt-shirts, slacks and sneakers.I have sneakers of all coloursfrom yellow, pink, red tomaroon, I wear lots of colours

and my style is very muchpart of my personality and mycooking - colours and flavours.I love good fabrics, and I love hats! I wear hats all the time.

My wife is my personal stylist as she is the one who doesthe shopping for me mostly and curates my wardrobe.

Future plansThere will be another book, a fashion bar in Mumbai, a new

venture coming up in Saudi Arabia and when Im 70-years-old, I would like to be lazing on a beach somewhere withcigar in one hand and drink in the other. But I am trulya workaholic and it is amazing that I have combined mypassion and work together.

My style isvery casual,funky andfriendly.

I lovecollaredt-shirts,slacks andsneakers.

a C

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ne of the most talented and inspiring make-up specialist from the region, BassamFatouh, has come a long way in pursuing his

art of beautifying women. He is currentlyone of the most sought after make-upartists in the industry and is a favourite withArab celebrities including the famous HaifaWehbe whom he calls his muse. With yearsof experience under his belt, he decidedto launch his own cosmetics line which

became an instant hit. The collection is based on a back-to-basicsconcept focusing on the essential products every woman needs intheir make-up repertoire.

What are the biggest make-up trends for Spring Summer 2013 around theworld? And how will these trends translate into the Middle East region?Spring Summer 2013 is very exciting and we are looking at a fewkey trends that every beauty fan must have. These include the BBCream, the Ultra Moist lipstick, the Lip Tint, and finally the BakedIlluminator. The BB cream is a make-up base and foundation creamthat moisturises, lightens, evens out the complexion, smoothesand erases imperfection while providing UV protection. The Baked

Illuminator is a baked powder that has sophisticated, unique andprecious ingredients which releases luminous and comfortable filmon skin. All these new developments are exciting because it allowswomen to experiment with new ways to enhance their skin. For me,my strength is to translate the international trends and adapt them to

our needs, social habits, climate, features and skin tones in terms oftextures, shades and complexions.

Tell us more about your cosmetic line. How is it different from otherproducts and ho w does i t target specifically the Middle E ast market?It is the per fect combination of what is beautiful and what is practical.It presents a range of innovative products that tends to every needwhile being functional at the same time. The BFC l ine was re-brandedand restructured with the artistic touch of world renowned illustratorLisellote Watkins to reach international standards, while sticking tothe oriental touch of our region, either by appearance or by productshades. Liselotte illustrated Bassam Fattouhs vision by presentinga free, independent, beautiful, courageous, sensual, seductive and

natural design. The BFC line aspires to offer women new and uniqueproducts that they undoubtedly love: best creations, perfect coloursand silky textures for them to shine in a whole new light of effortlessbeauty. A must-have for every season; women will f ind in this ref iningand perfecting line the answer for their call.

What projects are you currently working on? And what can we expect to seefrom Bas sam for the year 2013?I am currently working on the new launches and innovations that are

expected for 2013 in addition to my involvement in various workshopsaround the region for the line and setting up video tutorials that willbe a def inite added value to beauty professionals and women alike.

bassam attouh cosmetics line is available atpari gallery, lagoona mall.

by debrina aliyah

BASSAM FATOUH:

exPert talk

Documents

GLAM February 2013 issue