Model Shipways Kit No. 2180

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

Manufactured by Model Shipways, Inc. • Hollywood, FloridaSold by Model Expo, a division of Model Shipways, Inc.

http://www.modelexpo-online.com

Technical CharacteristicsScale: 1/2" = 1' (1:24)Overall Length: 29-1/2" (749.3 mm)Height from Bottom of Keel: 23" (584.2 mm)Beam: 5-1/4" (133.4 mm)

MODELING THE

GLAD TIDINGSF PINKY SCHOONER, 1768 F

MODELING THE

GLAD TIDINGSF PINKY SCHOONER, 1768 F

HISTORY

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HISTORYThe Pinky is one of the oldest types of New England fishing and trading boats. The type was very popular and ruledthe New England fisheries during the period 1815-1840 before being superceded by larger and faster fishing boats,namely the famous Gloucester schooners. However, as the Pinky is a sturdy and graceful seagoing boat, it has beenbrought back as a pleasure craft. Many were built in the late 1900's.

The word Pinky describes a boat with a narrow stern and overhanging false counter. The New England Pinky derives itsname from the 15th-16th century Dutch Pink, a term applied to all ships and boats with a narrow stern. The Dutch wordPincke means narrow; hence this type of boat is generally referred to as a pink-sterned craft. The pink-sterned schoonerscame into use in America during the latter part of the 17th century.

For more history on the craft's development, refer to the bibliography.

Model Shipways developed its Pinky Schooner Glad Tidings kit in 2001-2002. Glad Tidings is a two-masted schoonerwith a gaff rigged fore and aft mainsail, and single jib. The boat was designed by the famous nautical historian, HowardI. Chapelle, former curator at the Smithsonian Institution in Washington, DC. In fact, the boat was actually built forand sailed by Mr. Chapelle. He was an admirer of the Pinky and its history. The design represents a typical Maine Pinky.

The Glad Tidings was built by Roger I. Sawyer of Milbridge, Maine and launched in 1937. Its length on deck is 39' 0",length on waterline 36' 3", has a beam of 10' 4", and a draft of 6' 0".

The Model Shipways plans are based on Howard I. Chapelle's original drawings of Glad Tidings, used with permissionfrom the Smithsonian's National Museum of American History in Washington, DC. Copies of the original drawings areavailable by writing to Ship Plans, NMAH-5004/MRC 628, Smithsonian Institution, Washington, DC 20560-0628 USA.

Technical Specifications ...................................Cover

History / Introduction / Credits ..............................2

Before You Begin.....................................................3

Working with the Plans & Parts ..............................3

What You’ll Need to Start Construction..................4

Painting & Staining the Model................................4

Stage 1: Framing the Plank-on-Bulkhead Hull .....5-7

Stage 2: Planking the Hull and Deck....................8-10

Stage 3: Mounting the Hull...................................11

Stage 4: Installing the Bulwarks........................12-14

Stage 5: Building & Installing the Cabins ........14-16

Stage 6: Completing Remaining Hull Details...16-17

Stage 7: Mast and Spar Contruction ................17-19

Stage 8: General Rigging Information ..............20-21

Stage 9: Installing Standard Rigging.................21-22

Stage 10: Installing Running Rigging ...............22-24

Final Touches ........................................................24

Bibliography..........................................................24

INDEXINDEXPlans & Instructions by Ben LankfordEdited by Bob CraneProtype Model by Bob Crane

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Before You Begin

Glad Tidings is an interesting boat andmakes a splendid model. The model is wellsuited for the beginning ship modeler. At1/2" = 1' 0” scale, it is easy to build andobtain precise detail. Plank-on-bulkhead hullconstruction with laser-cut parts offers aunique building method. It assures an accu-rate hull form.Britannia, brass, and wooden fittings elimi-nate creating many parts from scratch. How-ever, some require final finishing before theyare suitable for the model. This is especiallytrue for the britannia fittings and will be dis-cussed later.Always complete one construction stagebefore moving to the next. When things goawry, consider doing them over.

Working with the Plans & Parts

Before starting the model, carefully examinethe kit and study the plans. First, determineif all the listed parts are present. Handlingthem will produce a better understanding ofthe kit’s requirements. Try to visualize howevery piece will look on the completedmodel. Also, determine the buildingsequence - what must be done first - aheadof time. The instructions will help, but athorough knowledge of the plans at the out-set is essential.To avoid losing small fittings and hard-ware, sort them into labeled boxes or com-partments. These should have lids to keepout dirt.

1. The PlansFive plan sheets are provided:

1. Laser-Cut Wood Patterns 2. Hull Construction3. Hull Profile & Deck Plan4. Hull & Spar Details5. Rigging & Sail Plan

One supplemental sheet is provided whichshows the shapes of the individual hullplanks as spiled and fitted for the prototypemodel. More about this later.Model Shipways’ Glad Tidings kit is manu-factured to a scale of 1/2" = 1' 0" (1:24).Each sheet is drawn to that scale except areasenlarged to show detail. A scale of 2X notedon the plans is twice scale, or 1" = 1' 0".Most dimensions can be lifted directly offthe plans by using draftsman dividers or a“tick” strip (piece of paper such as an addingmachine roll). Lay the paper strip over theplan, carefully mark the item’s length with asharp pencil, then transfer the marks to thewood.Because these are model building plans,actual measurements are given in modelinches. For comparison, 1/32" on the modelis equal to 3/4" on the real boat, 1/16" is1.5", 1/8” is 3”, 1/4" is 6" and so on. The

table below compares full-size dimensionswith scale model inches and millimeters:Full Size Model Scale Model ScaleInches Inches Millimeters3/8" 1/64" 0.40mm3/4" 1/32" 0.79mm1-1/8" 3/64" 1.19mm1-1/2" 1/16" 1.59mm2-1/4" 3/32" 2.38mm3" 1/8" 3.18mm6" 1/4" 6.35mm9" 3/8" 9.53mm12" 1/2" 12.7mm

2. Making Allowances Along the Way

Try to be exact when following the plans,but use common sense. Adjustments may benecessary to compensate for small differencesin how your model is shaping up; i.e., per-haps the mast has too much rake (the angleat which it sits). Lines should not drape overfittings or conflict with other lines whenbelayed (secured). Put yourself on the boat,imagine performing the task, and use logic.

3. Understanding Hull Lines Beginners may not be familiar with the fol-lowing hull lines. Buttock lines are verticallongitudinal planes cutting through the hull.Waterlines are horizontal planes, and Sectionsare transverse vertical planes. Diagonals areplanes cut almost perpendicular to the stationlines. These lines define the hull’s shape andare used by the draftsman to fair it (createsmooth curves).A complete set of hull lines is not needed forthis model, because laser-cut bulkheads andthe center keel define the hull’s shape. Theplanking layout on Plan Sheet 2 shows thestation lines. They are the same as the boat’sbody plan or sections, and illustrate how thehull curves from top to bottom.

4. Kit LumberStrips and sheets of basswood are supplied inthe kit. Model Shipways occasionally substi-tutes lime (Tilia vulgaris), a European wood,for basswood (Tilia americana) in its kits.Both have a fine, uniform texture and straightgrain. Lime is often called basswood inEurope.Sorting the wood in the kit by thickness andwood-type will save time. After selecting andcutting what you need, return the remainingstock to the proper thickness and wood-typepile. Don’t worry about using a piece for oneitem intended for another. Model Shipwayssupplies enough extra wood to complete themodel before running out.

5. Britannia Metal FittingsThese fittings will require final finishingbefore mounting on the model. First, removemold joint flash with a #11 hobby blade, then

file or sand with fine sandpaper. Second, washfittings in dishwashing liquid and warm waterto remove traces of mold release agent and thebody oils your fingers deposit. Allow the partsto dry thoroughly before applying primer andpainting.

6. Soldering & Working with Brass Here are some tips for working with brass. Cut brass sheets and strips with a small pair oftin snips or heavy scissors. Thicker brass willrequire a jeweler’s saw. After cutting, smooththe edges with needle files followed by wet-or-dry fine sandpaper used dry. Cutting sliversfrom brass sheet curls and bends it sideways.To straighten, grip the ends with a pair ofsmall pliers and pull in opposite directions.Thin brass sheets can be scored with a utilityknife and metal straightedge and thensnapped off. Use two or three light passes,cutting against a maple chopping block, birchboard, or glass.Drilling holes in brass with a pin vise is a slowprocess. The solution is to mount a handpiece for flex-shaft machines in a drill press oruse a small hobby drill press. Several compa-nies manufacturer these tools and they areworth the cost. When working with brass, usea 1/4" or thicker piece of maple or birch forbacking. (Avoid softwoods, as these flare theexit hole.) To prevent the bit from wandering,mark the spot with a small center punch.Lubricate the bit with light oil and drill slowlyto avoid breakage. The brass will become hot,so clamp the pieces to the drill press table orhold them down with a wooden stick. Do nottouch the brass! If possible, keep the RPMbelow 2000. Anything higher will generateenough heat to break small drill bits.In the past, many modelers used pure silversolder to avoid the corrosive qualities of leadin soft solder. Today, most solders are leadfree. They’re composed of tin and antimony,or tin and a small amount of silver (3 to 4 %).These solders are strong and melt at approxi-mately 430º F. Consequently, no reason existsto use pure silver solder (melts at 1300º F).The key to soldering is keeping the brassclean. Use a solvent made especially for clean-ing metal parts or a simple substitute such asvinegar, lightly sand, or both. Rinse parts inclean water that have been cleaned with a sol-vent. Once the parts are cleaned, don’t touchthem. Your fingers will leave greasy spots. Sol-dering is easy if your work is set up properly.First, immobilize the parts in a fixture orother holding device, then add just enoughrosin or acid paste flux to the joint to do thejob. Solder flows where flux is applied. Next,heat the joint with a small torch or pencil sol-dering iron. This sequence is important. Thelarger the parts, the longer it takes to heat thebrass and melt the solder. Remove excess sol-der with needle files. Better yet, use a desol-dering syphon or braid to remove globs ofsolder before it hardens. The joint should looklike the real thing, not a big glob of fillets.

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What You’ll Need To Start

The following items are recommended forbuilding the model. Those who have mod-eled before may have their favorites.A. Knives and saws

1. Hobby knife with #11 blades2. Razor saw or jeweler’s saw

B. FilesSet of needle files; steel or diamond coated

C. Clamps1. A few small C-clamps2. Wooden spring-type clothespins

(craft shops have small versions)3. Rubber bands

D.Tool SetSmall carving tool set or individual gougesand chisels for carving keel rabbets, andtapering the stem, sternpost, and rudder.E. Sharpening Stone

Keeps tools razor sharp.F. Boring Tools

1. Miniature bits sizes #60 to #802. 1/16", 3/32",1/8", and 3/16" bits3. Pin vise

G. Miscellaneous1. Tack hammer2. Tweezers (a few)3. Small, fine pointed scissors4. Miniature pliers

a. small roundb. flat nose

5. Small bench vise6. Soldering iron or torch

a. solderb. flux

7. Beeswax block (for treating rigging lines)

8. Masking tape9. Wire cutters (for cutting fine wire

and strip metal)H.Sandpaper

1. Fine and medium grit garnet or #100 to #220 aluminum oxide

2. #400 wet-or-dry sandpaper I. Sail clothLight weave cotton or linen cloth if sails aredesired. For furled sails, a light material suchas Silkspan is ideal. Model Expo sells a suit-able cotton cloth and Silkspan.J. Finishing

1. Paintbrushesa. Fine point for detailsb. 1/4" to 1/2" flat square for hull

K. Supplies:1. Paints2. Primer3. Stains and varnish4. White or woodworker’s (yellow) glue5. Cyanoacrylates (generic name is

Super Glue)6. Five-minute epoxy7. Wood filler

Note: White or woodworker’s glue in yellow ortan will suffice for most of the model. Five-minute epoxy provides extra strength for affix-ing fittings. Super glues, such as Jet, Flash, orZap, produce quick adhesion. For most appli-cations, the medium viscosity, gap-filling vari-ety is best. The thin type is recommended forfilling a narrow crack or tacking hull plankingto the bulkheads.

Painting and Staining

Beginning this manual with directions onapplying finishes may seem strange. Not so!Much time and effort can be saved and moreprofessional results obtained if the finishingprocess is carried on throughout construc-tion. Proper timing in applying finishes andusing masking tape to define painted edgesshould eliminate unsightly glue marks andsplotchy, stained surfaces. Take advantage ofthese general suggestions:1. PreliminariesSanding and cleaning: Rub down externalsurfaces with 220 grit sandpaper and thenwipe off every speck of dust. Give surfaces tobe painted two light coats of primer andsand lightly after the last application. Don’tsand down to bare wood. After washing yourhands, gently dust the hull with a soft brushand clean, soft cloth or tack rag. Use a spack-ling compound, such as Model Magic orDAP, to fill any scratches and defects, thensand and prime again.Choosing paint: Glossy surfaces are notdesirable on ship models. A flat finish or onewith a slight sheen is best, because it doesn’treflect daylight or artificial lights. Conse-quently, details show up better. However, theundercoat or primer should be dead flat. Aprimer gives the surface a little tooth andhelps top coats adhere better.Any of the hobby paints are satisfactory suchas Model Shipways, Testors, Humbrol, andTamiya. Jo Sonja artists’ paints (used by birdcarvers) are also acceptable. They are a com-bination acrylic-gouache and dry dead flat.Hobby paints have a variety of reflectancelevels from flat to gloss. When using a mixedgroup of reflectance levels, finish the com-pleted model with a flat, clear coat. It alsoprovides durability and seals any decals ordry transfer lettering.Brush painting: Painting with fine, softbristle brushes is probably best for the begin-ner. Many skilled model makers prefer thebrushed-on technique, because its subtleimperfections impart a more lifelike appear-ance to the model. Brushes must be soft andof the highest quality. Artist grade sable orsynthetics are the best. Use wider brushes forpainting broad surfaces. If too narrow, thebristles will cause excessive streaking.When applying paint or stain with a brush,lay down one thin coat in a single stroke,then move to an adjacent area and coat it

with a single stroke. Never go back over freshpaint. That will tear up the surface. Waituntil it has dried to a hard finish beforeapplying a second coat.Spray painting: Although slightly expensive,a Paasche, Badger, Testors, Revell-Mono-gram, or similar airbrush will produce a first-rate job and is worth the investment.Airbrushes are either single action (triggercontrols only airflow) or double action (trig-ger controls air and paint) and easy to use.Spray patterns can vary from thin to about1/2" wide by either adjusting the needle orinstalling a different sized nozzle. In somebrands, paint travels through the airbrushbody to the needle. These require disassem-bling to clean. Other designs bypass thebody and bring paint directly to the nozzle.These clean by simply spraying solventthrough them.Paints are either water (acrylic) or solventbased. Solvent-based paints spray best.Acrylics are difficult to spray and must defi-nitely be used with the manufacturer’s spe-cial thinner. Thinning water-based paintswith water creates surface tension problems,resulting in poor coverage and spray atom-ization. If a manufacturer's thinner is notavailable, alcohol can be used as a substitute.Experiment when using acrylics. Some mod-elers have success and others don’t.When using solvent-based paints, work out-doors or equip your shop with a spray booth.These fumes are toxic.Many brands of aerosol paints produce goodresults. However, test them on scrap woodbefore spraying the model. Aerosols put out alot more paint than an airbrush, so be carefulto avoid runs. Spray on several light coats.Most paint manufacturers have special thin-ners for their various paint lines. Follow eachmanufacturer’s recommendations. Mixingbrands is not a good idea, because they maynot be compatible. Sometimes, however, noother option exists. If so, apply each brandseparately and allow to thoroughly drybefore adding the next. Always test to makesure the final flat or gloss finish is compatiblewith the paint it will cover.Masking surfaces: Masking can be a trickyprocess. Some brands of masking tape areworthless, because they allow paint to seepunderneath their edges. For masking finestripes or straight and curved lines, use agraphic arts tape such as Chart Pak. It comesin widths as fine as 1/64". Chart Pak tapeshave superb adhesion and won’t bleed whenfirmly applied (burnishing is recommended).Black plastic electrician’s tape and ScotchRemovable Magic Tape are also excellent.Scotch’s tape has the same, low stick adhesiveas its famous Post-It pads. In fact, Post-Ittape flags can be used for masking.

2. Glad Tidings Color SchemeThe color scheme is shown on the plans for

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the various parts and areas. The colors for themajor areas are noted on Mr. Chapelle's orig-inal drawings. However, a couple of optionsis noted on the plans; primarily, the substitu-tion of white for yellow in a few areas. Speak-ing of yellow, Mr. Chapelle simply notedyellow on his plan. This is assumed to be amedium bright yellow. However, a more sub-dued yellow such as yellow ochre could havebeen used. The specific yellow color isunknown. In any case, whatever yellow youselect, stick with that color throughout forthe hull, bulwarks, and bowsprit.

The following Model Shipways acrylic paintsmatch the colors noted on the plans:Black - Hull/Spar Black, MS4830White - White, MS4831Medium Bright Yellow - Bright Yellow Trim,MS4809Yellow Ochre option - Hull Yellow Ochre,MS4829Gray - Deck Medium Gray, MS4826 orDeck Light Gray, MS4825Copper Red - Hull Bottom Copper Red,MS4814

For the natural deck planking and masts,you should use a stain. Basswood is too lightto represent a real boat if just clear is used.Model Shipways bottled Minwax Stain, issuggested; Colonial Pine, MS4976. EnglishOak, MS4975, would also be suitable.

STAGE 1: FRAMING THE PLANK-ON-BULKHEAD HULL

Before getting started on this project, a fewimportant terms and abbreviations are inorder, especially if you are a beginner.Port or (P) - Looking forward, this is the leftside of the boat.Starboard or (S) - Looking forward, this isthe right side of the boat.P/S - A designation you will see on plans andin instructions. This tells you that the sameidentical part, rig, or whatever, appears onboth sides of the boat in the same location. Model Shipways profile plans are drawnshowing the starboard side of the boat. In thiscase, the bow is pointing to the right. This iscommon practice for model plans as well asreal boat plans although for some unknownreason, Mr. Chapelle's original plans in theSmithsonian were drawn showing the portside which was not his usual procedure.Some of the other stages will have specificterms defined to help you understand theterms used on plans and in the instructions.

1. GeneralFor this particular model, the center keel,stem, keel, and sternpost are1/4" thick. SinceModel Shipways laser cutting machines arelimited to 3/16", two 1/8" pieces must beglued together to form the 1/4" thick pieces.Since this is necessary, the basic constructionprocedure from previous Model Shipwayskits has been modified. Half laser-cut bulk-heads are provided instead of the usual fullbulkheads. Each half of the hull can beassembled flat on a building board. Bulk-head halves with tabs are installed in slots inthe center keel. The half hulls can even beplanked before the two halves are gluedtogether. This procedure should simplify theconstruction and ensure that both sides ofthe hull are identical as each half bulkhead isduplicated by the computer from one pat-tern drawing.

2. Preparing the Half Center Keels The two half center keels are laser-cut from1/8" basswood. With a sharp pencil, drawthe bearding line shown on the profile viewon Plan Sheet 2. Mark on the outer side of

each half center keel. Be critical and measurefrom several points on the plans when mark-ing the lines. Model expo has convenientlylaser etched the bearding line on the twocenter keels, one port and one starboard.This eliminates the need for you to transferthe bearding line from the plans to the cen-ter keels. A nice touch.

3. Installing the Half Stem, Keel, & Sternpost

The half stem, keel, and sternpost are laser-cut from 1/8" basswood. Glue them to eachof the center keel halves. Taper the half stem,and sternpost, and portions of the keelhalves as shown on the plans. Tapering ofthese parts can be done prior to gluing to thecenter keel. Another option, taper the partsafter the two half hulls are glued together;your choice (Figure 1-1).

4. Cutting the RabbetThe rabbet is a generic term referring to theentire groove where planks are fitted alongthe stem, keel, and sternpost. The rabbetconsists of three basic lines. A rabbet linethat happens to be the glue line between thestem, keel, and sternpost and the center keelon the model. It is the line where the outerface of the planks butts with the keel, stem,and sternpost. The bearding line is the inter-section of the center keel with the planksinner face. A third line, called the middleline, is where the edge or end of a planksinner surface butts in the rabbet groove.

These three lines are illustrated in Detail 2-Jon Plan Sheet 2.

Note: As shown in the detail, the rabbetshape varies depending upon its locationalong the hull. Cut the depth of the rabbet(rabbet line to middle line) to suit the thick-ness of the planking (1/16"). Do this with a#11 hobby blade. Using a 1/8" or 1/4" wideflat chisel, finish the "V" groove rabbet, cut-ting from the bearding line to the middleline. At the lower waterlines at stem andsternpost, the middle line of the rabbetalmost disappears because of the angle theplank takes. So, in these areas you can justabout forget the middle line and chisel therabbet from the bearding line to the rabbetline. Cut the rabbet on both halves of thecenter keel.

When cutting the rabbet, temporarily insertthe half bulkheads in the center keel slots todetermine the angle the planks will takewhen installed. As you carve the rabbet, fit ascrap piece of 1/16" plank stock against thekeel, stem, and sternpost to make sure it fitsin the rabbet (Figure 1-2).

Note: Cutting the rabbet may seem difficult atfirst, but the groove need not be that precise.The accuracy of the middle line is really not thatimportant on a model. The objective is to havethe plank edge come out on the rabbet line.

FIG. 1-1 INSTALLING HALF STEM, KEEL, & STERNPOST

ALL 1/8" THICK LASER-CUT PARTS

TAPER TAPER

STERN POSTHALF

KEEL HALF

STEMHALF

STARBOARD HALF SHOWN, PORT SIMILAR

BEARDING LINE MARKED ON CENTER KEEL HALF

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5. Installing the Half BulkheadsThe bulkhead halves are laser-cut from3/16" basswood. The bulkheads are labeled 1through 19. Test each one to make sure itslides into the correct center keel tab slots. Ifthe fit is too tight, sand or file the slot. Bulk-heads should fit snugly.

Beveling the bulkhead sides: Bevels mustbe cut on the edges of the laser-cut bulk-heads so the planks will contact the entirebulkhead thickness. The bevels are shown onthe bulkhead patterns on Plan Sheet 1 exceptwhere they are so slight they can't be drawn.Use a tick strip to transfer the side bevels tothe bulkheads. Mark them in pencil. Cut thebevels with a #11 hobby blade per Figure 1-3. Side bevels amidships are hardly measura-ble as noted on the plans. These can besanded in after the bulkheads are installedwhile fairing the bulkheads. The deck bevelswill be sanded in after the hull halves areglued together.

Note: When cutting the bevels make sureyou cut the bevel on the correct side of eachof the bulkhead halves. A mistake could easi-ly be made here. Did you ever make a pic-ture frame and cut the corner miter on onepiece in the wrong direction?

Adding the bulkheads: With the rabbet cutinto each center keel half and the bevels cuton each of the bulkhead halves, it is nowtime to start assembling each half of the hull.

Pin each center keel assembly on a flat build-ing board or table. Just a suggestion, pin thestarboard center keel half on your left (bowpointing to right), and the port keel on yourright (bow pointing left). Place some waxedpaper under the two center keel halves just incase some glue gets slopped onto the board.

Fit each bulkhead half in the slots in the cen-ter keel. Notice that the slots are longer thanthe tabs on the bulkhead halves. The slotsare simply to align the bulkheads fore andaft. Fit the bulkhead halves in the slots andadjust the location so the top of each bulk-head is flush with the top of the center keelhalf. Actually, since the center keel has decksheer you need to have the forward side ofthe forward bulkheads flush and the aft sideof the aft bulkheads flush with the centerkeel. The difference here is the bevel that willneed to be sanded in the top of the bulk-heads later (Figure 1-4).

Start each bulkhead forward and work aft.Use a square to align the bulkhead half verti-cally and then glue the bulkhead in place.Super glue is ideal for this job since capillaryaction will take the glue into the joint.

Next, glue a permanent strut (1/8" square orgreater) between the bulkhead halves nearthe outer edge, but make sure the spacingbetween the bulkheads is accurate. The strutsmaintain the correct spacing of bulkheadsand adds strength to the assembly. The bulk-heads have the wood grain running vertical-

ly, so they could easily be bent or broken(Figure 1-5).

The bottom edge of each bulkhead halfshould line up on the bearding line youmarked on the center keel halves but someslight trimming may be necessary. Bottomson most narrow bulkheads may be slightlyabove the bearding line caused by laser burn-ing the narrow wood (Figure 1-6).

Fairing the bulkhead sides: Now we cometo the most important part of the hullframing. Beginners tend to rush this stepand jump right into planking. Take yourtime and check the fairness thoroughly.Then you won't run into problems whenyou start planking.

Lay a 1/8" thick square basswood battenagainst the bulkhead edges at various loca-tions to check the hull’s fairness. This processwill show you where you need to sand inbevels that were not pre-cut on the bulkheadedges, and where bumps and dips may needto be corrected. Because of the Glad Tidingsnumerous bulkheads, manufacturing orassembly errors can occur. Sand or add shimsas necessary to correct bumps and dips. Thisis an important check. Hull planks must lieflat against the bulkheads (Figure 1-7).

Procedure option: As noted earlier, you canplank each hull half at this time, or go aheadand glue the two halves of the hull togetherbefore planking. In any case, planking willbe discussed in Stage 2. For now, let's pro-ceed with the assembly of the hull halves.

6. Gluing the Half Hulls TogetherFit the two half hulls together and pin orclamp them before gluing. Make sure thealignment is perfect with the beam slots,mast slots, cockpit cutout, stem, keel, andsternpost in line. Using a straight edge, makesure the center keel halves are straight. Youdon't want a banana hull. When satisfiedwith the alignment, run a bead of super gluearound the joints. To further glue the centerkeel halves together, stick some pin holesthrough one of the center keel halves andsquirt some thin super glue into the pinholes. Capillary action will spread the gluebetween the center keel halves (Figure 1-8).

The above is just one method for gluing thecenter keel halves. You can always use wood-workers glue but you will need to be morecareful and get the hulls aligned quicklybefore the glue sets. A few alignment dowelscould also be used through the center keelhalves.

Completing the bulkhead bevels: You shouldalready have the hull sides fair. With the twohalf hulls together, now is the time to bevelthe tops of the bulkheads. Sand the top ofthe bulkheads as necessary to follow thesheer of the center keel. As with the hullsides, place a batten on top of the bulkheadsto help the fairing

FIG. 1-2 CUTTING THE RABBET

FIG. 1-3 CUTTINGBULKHEAD BEVELS

FIG. 1-4 INSTALLINGHALF BULKHEAD

FIT SCRAP PLANKTO CHECK FIT

CHISEL FROMBEARDING LINETO RABBET LINE

BEARDING LINE

RABBET LINE

CUTBEVEL

CENTERKEEL HALF

AFT

ALIGNTOP OF

BULKHEADWITH

CENTERKEEL

FWD

BULKHEAD HALF

WORKING BOARD

MARK BEVELPER PLANSHEET 1

HOBBY KNIFE TO CUT DEPTH

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7. Installing Deck Beams and Carlings

Laser-cut transverse deck beams of 1/8"basswood and 1/8" x 3/16" stripwood car-lings are installed to support and locate theedges of the cabins, and to form the sidesand ends of the cockpit. Fit the beams andcarlings flush with the top of the bulkheads.Since all the beams are laser- cut the samelength, cut each to the length as required.Always mark the centerline of the beamfirst, then cut off each end equally. Glue thecarlings in place first, then fit the beams.The beams fit into pre-cut notches in thecenter keel (Figure 1-9).

8. Forming the Mast MortiseThe pre-cut mast slots in the center keelform a 1/4" square mortise for the tenon tobe cut in the bottom of each mast. Theforemast slot is in way of bulkhead 4 sodoes not need any side support. However,the mainmast slot does not have a bulkheadin way of the slot so it is necessary to fit a1/8" (or thicker) piece on each side of thecenter keel to form the sides of the mortise(Figure 1-10).

Note: Don't forget this step. You can't get toit after the deck is planked.

9. Installing Windlass Bitt and Smoke Stack Blocks

To provide support and pre-cut locator holesfor windlass bitts and the cabin heater stack,laser-cut blocks of 1/8" basswood are provid-ed. These blocks fit under the deck plank.Fit these laser-cut blocks flush with the topof the bulkheads (Figure 1-11).

Note: When fitting the two bitt blocks,make sure the spacing between the port andstarboard hole is 5/16" (5/32" to each holefrom centerline). Trim the blocks if necessaryto get this spacing. 5/16" is the width of thebowsprit that fits between the bitts.

10. Before Moving OnBefore proceeding with the hull and deckplanking, check all the framing. Make sureit is all in place and all nice and flush. Theframing sets the foundation for the finalplanking. You don’t want to get started andfind out that something is out of skew.Double check those bulkhead bevels, soyou know when you plank you will have afair hull form to work with. Many begin-ners tend to rush through this stage only tofind they are really not ready for attackingthe planking.

FIG. 1-5 ALIGNING &GLUING BULKHEADS

FIG. 1-7 CUTTING BULKHEADBEVELS

FIG. 1-9 FIG. 1-10 MAST MORTISE

FIG. 1-8 CUTTINGBULKHEAD BEVELS

FIG. 1-6 BULKHEADS AT BEARDING LINE

BULKHEAD

CHECKSPACING

SQUARE-UPBULKHEADS

CENTERKEEL HALF

ADD SHIM TOFILL GAP AT

EDGE OF BULKHEAD

2 ADJACENTBULKHEADS OK

RABBET

KEELHALF

GLUE STRUTSBETWEEN

BULKHEADSIF TOO LONG,

TRIM TO LINE UP

ON BEARDING

LINE

CENTERKEELHALF

BEARDINGLINE

RABBETLINE

GAP

ALIGN KEEL ALIGNBULKHEADS

ALIGN CENTER KEEL,BEAM, MAST SLOTS & COCKPITS

CENTER KEEL

AFTMASTSLOT

ALIGN TOP

GAPGAPGAPGAP

8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

FIG. 1-11 INSTALLING BITT & SMOKE STACK BLOCKSCENTER

KEEL

FORWARD

LASER-CUTBITT BLOCKS

BULKHEAD

DECK BEAMLASER-CUT SMOKE STACK SUPPORT

STAGE 2: PLANKING THE HULL AND DECK

8

Some common boatbuilding terms used inthe planking process for this model are:Plank: Single length of wood used toplank a hull or deck. A strake is a continu-ous line of planks from wherever it beginsto where it ends. Referring to plan sheet 2,note that there are 17 strakes on each sideof the hull that run from the stern post tothe stem. There are approximately 3planks to each strake. The plank shapes asdeveloped for the prototype model are laidout on the supplememtal sheet.Garboard strake: Planking strake adjacentto the keel.Broad strakes: One or several planks adja-cent to the garboard; wider than most butusually not as wide as the garboard.Sheer strake: Uppermost line of plankingon a hull.Belts: Group of planks along the hull.Belts are laid out using battens (temporarystrips of flexible wood). Spiling: Process for marking and cutting aplank to a given shape.Edge bending or springing: To bend aplank edgewise.Fair: Refers to smooth, gradual curveswhen planking.Stealer: Plank inserted into another plankor between two adjacent planks to reducetheir width and provide greater width ofcoverage. Or, when two planks tapertoward a narrow end, both may have to becut off and a wider plank substituted toleave enough wood for fastening.

1. Bending WoodBuilding a plank-on-bulkhead hull requiresbending some wood without distorting itsdesired position (doing so stresses gluejoints and fasteners). Wood is bent by: Steam bending: Hold the plank over a ket-tle of boiling water and bend. Hold thewood in position until it cools. Althoughthe plank should remain in that shape, itmay spring back slightly.Microwave steaming: Wrap the planks ina wet paper towel before heating. Sincemicrowaves differ in wattage, experimentto determine what power level to use andfor how long.Soaking: Submerge the plank in warmwater for several hours. Try adding a littlehousehold or pure ammonia. This speedsup the process, making the fibers slipperyso the wood bends more easily. After soak-ing, place the plank in a fixture until com-pletely dry.Soldering iron: Large soldering irons witha tubular end are ideal. Clamp the ironupright in a vise. While the iron heats,soak the strip of wood in tap water. Some

modelers prefer bending around the tubenear the handle (it’s not as hot), while oth-ers use the shank. Move the strip back andforth against the iron. Its heat turns waterinto steam and drives it into the wood. Thetrick is to wait until you feel the woodwanting to yield before starting the bend.Begin too soon or apply too much pressureand the strip will break. The wood driesrapidly, so care must be taken to avoidscorching. Resoak and reapply it to theiron until the desired shape is achieved.Once the piece is formed, it can go directlyon the model. Because the wood’s memoryhas been permanently altered, it will neverspring back to its former shape, meaningno stress on any timber or fasteners. Spendsome time acquainting yourself with thismethod and you’ll never bother with fix-tures again.Another soldering iron approach is to lathe-turn a tip from hard aluminum, then file a45º angle on one end. Insert the tip in a 20-or 30-watt soldering iron and heat it. Soakthe wood for five minutes, then let dry forfive minutes. (Woods take on water fasterthan they can release it.) Hold the tipagainst the wood to heat it. When supple,bend the plank over a form, or simply liftthe end as heat is applied and bend by hand.Commercial plank benders: Model Exposells an electric plank bender designed forcontrolled heat. Another tool (Amati’sForm-A-Strip available from Model Expo)bends planks without soaking or heating. Itlooks like a pair of pliers with one flat jawand a chisel for the other. When squeezedon a plank, the chisel depresses one side ofthe wood, causing it to bend. Repeat theprocess along the plank until it assumes thecorrect curve. However, squeezing too hardwill cut the wood in half. This tool bendsplanks in only one direction, so it’s goodfor bow planks, but not those at the sternthat are concave.

2. Getting StartedMost modelers find planking tedious.Work slowly and think of each plank as aproject unto itself. Since hull sides areidentical, simultaneously cut one pair of

port and starboard planks to shape. Fit theplank on one side, then the other. Don’trush. Speed results in frustration and apoor job.

3. Planking Battens & BeltsHulls are easier to plank when divided intobelts. They flow along the hull in smoothcurves. Each is designed to lay the planksagainst the frames without excessive edgebending. They gently sweep up at the endslike the deck sheer. Planks within a belt areusually evenly spaced, tapered, and fitted.Belts prevent errors from accumulating.When selecting a belt width and the num-ber of planks it contains, consider how theplanks taper and lay against the frames(bulkheads on our plank-on-bulkheadmodel). If the planks are too wide, theywon’t lie flat against the bulkheads. Taperthem too much and not enough stock isleft for fastening. Should this happen, alarger plank must be substituted for twoplanks to increase the width. In some areas,the distance between planks widens ratherthan tapers. If it becomes too wide, a steal-er must be added. While these alterationsare acceptable and employed on manyboats, the best run of planking limits thenumber of stealers. Figure 2-1 illustratessome inserts.Plan Sheet 2 provides in-depth details onhow to lay out the planking. Three beltswere selected for this model. Study the foreand aft views plus the profile view to gain acomplete picture. Note: The planking layout was developed bythe model designer, as no similar layout existson the Chapelle reference drawings. Onlysome of the plank widths are indicated. Con-sequently, feel free to develop your own layoutif you so desire, but you should be warnedthat a planking layout is not as easy a task asit may seem. If you are a beginner, you beststick with what is shown on the plans. Thesupplemental sheet supplied showing theshape of the individual planks in each strakewas developed with strict adherence to theplanking layout as shown on plan sheet 2.

FIG. 2-1 STEALERSSTEALER CUT INTO

2 PLANKS

STEALER CUT INTO PLANK

SINGLE PLANK INSERT

PLANKSBECOMINGTOO WIDE

PLANKSBECOMING

TOO NARROW

9

4. SpilingEdge bending planks on real boats occurson a limited basis. Wood is rigid, so manyplanks must be cut to shape. Spiling (Fig-ure 2-2) is simply a matter of transferringcurves to a straight plank, then sawingthem out. Many narrow planking strips(especially on models) are flexible enoughto edge bend in place. However, othersmust be spiled. All of the planks on theprototype model were spiled and shaped toconform to the planking layout shown.

5. Planking ButtsEven though this is a relatively small boat,it is likely that the planks used were not aslong as the boat itself. Consequently, buttsshould appear within a strake of planking.Some modelers think a plank as long as thehull is easier to use. They scribe in fakebutts or omit them. Although this can bedone, working with shorter planks is morerealistic and has advantages. For example,tapers mark quicker and planks are easierto hold and fasten. Should a mistake occur,only a small piece is affected. To emulate shipwright practice, place buttsaccording to the traditional rules for wood-en ships as shown in Figure 2-3. Althoughit may be difficult to follow the rules pre-cisely on such a small boat, follow them asclose as possible if you are interested in realboat construction procedures. If you don'tcare about following the rules, it is still agood idea to use shorter plank lengths onthe model and to stagger the butts of adja-cent planks. If the planks are too long, youmay not have the correct width wood inthe kit for those planks that require spiling.The kit wood has been sized based onusing shorter plank lengths with butts.The planking shapes on the supplementalsheet are developed using the butts asshown on plan sheet 2.The hull planking profile on Plan Sheet 2has a suggested layout of butts. In thisscheme, the butts are placed on the modelbulkheads so the ends of the planks can befastened to the bulkheads. The butt staggeris about 4 feet full scale, just a foot shy ofthe "5 feet" rule. The scheme does meetthe "3 strakes between butts on sameframe" rule. If you look at the layout, youwill notice that once you establish the stag-ger (2 bulkhead spaces for our model), inorder to get the 3 full strakes between thebutts, this automatically sets the planklength (8 bulkhead spaces for our model).With the butts as shown, there are 3 planksper strake. The longest plank is about 16feet full scale (8 inch model scale) which isa reasonable plank length. Note: Basswood strips have been provided in

widths of 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", 3/4", and 1".Based on the butt layout shown on the plans,all these widths will be needed for spiling andshaping the planks.

6. Fastening the Planks Avoid the commercial plank clamp thatscrews into the edges of bulkheads. Thisleaves a big hole to contend with wheninstalling subsequent planks. Instead, holdshort pieces and use pins to position them.Be careful not to split the wood. If neces-sary, drill a pilot hole first. Smear a lightfilm of white or woodworker’s glue alongthe edge of the plank, then touch eachbulkhead with thin super glue to affix theplank quickly. Be careful not to glue yourfingers to the model.Another approach is to apply super glue tothe edge of a plank already in place and onthe bulkheads above it. Spray or brush thesuper glue’s accelerator on the plank to beinstalled, then hold it in place. The gluesets instantly and no clamps are necessary.While glue alone will secure a plank, smallbrass brads add additional holding power.If using brads, hammer them in after cut-ting off and discarding their heads.

Real boat fastenings: Our model is in atime period and size where nails (probablymonel) were used to fasten the planks tothe frames. Treenails (wooden pegs) weregoing out of fashion, and were used onlyon much larger boats of the period. Nowmany model builders like to indicate fas-teners especially if the boat is not painted.This is really not recommended for thisparticular model as the nails would be verysmall and not that noticeable. However, ifyou still desire to indicate fasteners, hereare the details you need to know about theboat's construction:The frames of Glad Tidings are bentframes, 2-1/2" wide (about 1/8" modelscale). Frames are located at stations andhalf stations. Our model has the laser-cutbulkheads located at the station lines, so anadditional real ship frame would appearbetween the bulkhead locations. The framespacing is average 12" (1/2" model scale).The average width plank would have 2 or 3nails per plank per frame, depending on

FIG. 2-2 SPILING PLANKS

FIG. 2-3 PLANKING BUTTS

FIG. 2-4 INSTALLING FIRST PLANK STRAKE

STEP 2USE COMPASS TO DRAWLINE PARALLEL TO PLANK IN PLACE

STEP 3MEASURE WIDTH OF NEWPLANK AND DRAW CURVE

STEP 3LAY WOOD ALONG BULKHEADSWITHOUT EDGE BENDINGS PLANK ALREADY IN PLACE

BULKHEADS (OR FRAMES)

RULE:MUST HAVE 3 STRAKESBETWEEN BUTTS ONSAME FRAME

RULE:MUST BE 5 FEET OR MORE

EXAMPLE IS A MODEL PLANK COVERING 4 BULKHEAD SPACES

BULKHEAD 17

BOTTOM STRAKE OF BELT “A” BUTTS PER SUGGESTION ON PLANE SHEET 2

BULKHEAD 9

BELT BATTEN

PARALLEL

STEP 4CUT PLANKTO SHAPE

10

the width. Plank butts would occurbetween frames and be backed by a buttblock. Possibly 5 nails would be used oneach end of the plank.

7. Planking the HullThe hull is divided into three belts. Belt Acontains the sheer strake or uppermost hullplank. Belt B is the bilge area planking,and Belt C contains the garboard planknext to the keel,Referring to Plan Sheet 2, lay a tick stripalong each bulkhead and mark the two beltseams between Belt A and B, and B and C.Transfer these points in pencil to themodel. Now temporarily tack two 1/16" x3/32" basswood battens along the port andstarboard belt lines. Battens assure an accu-rate run of planks by correcting errors indrafting, tick strip marking, or transferring. Once the two battens are in place, checktheir flow. Look at the model from the sideand from the bow and stern. Do the bat-tens have a pleasing, smooth curve? Arethey symmetrical? If necessary, adjust thebattens referring to the planking profile onPlan Sheet 2. When everything is fair,make sure the belt seams are clearly visible.Remark those that aren’t. Now, eitherremove the battens or leave them in placeuntil they interfere with installing a plank.Tapering plank edges: As planking pro-ceeds, the edges of a particular plank mayrequire tapering to butt flush against itsneighbor. Properly machined planks havesquare edges. Butting them together on ahull may produce small gaps. Most aresealed with glue or wood filler, or caulkedon a real boat. Plank edges are often delib-erately tapered to ensure they butt againsteach other, while providing a sufficient gapfor caulking. To create a perfectly smoothhull without gaps, trim each plank edge asit is fit. The decision to taper or rely onfiller is yours.Laying the planks in Belt A and B: Eachbelt is done separately, so planking canstart with any one. Many planks willrequire spiling. You will know as soon asyou try to fit a plank and can't edge bendit in place. Belt A and B each includes six equal widthplanks at station 9-10 a little more than3/16” wide (5" real ship dimension select-ed) and taper to about 1/8" to 5/32"at thestem and sternpost. Lift the plank widthsfrom the hull planking layout (fore and aftview) with a tick strip. Mark these lines onthe bulkheads in pencil. Belt A and B arenow completely marked. The next step is to cut planks to fit betweenthe marks. First, decide where you wantplank butts to go. So, you may have two orthree planks for each strake. Mark the buttlocations on the bulkheads and don't forgetto stagger the butts per the rules.

If the belt locations, plank widths andbutts are accurately laid out as shown onplan sheet 2, the plank shapes as shown onthe supplemental sheet will result. In fact,you may be able to use these shapes as pat-terns for your planking. Glue the patternsto thin card stock card and cut them out.See how it fits on your hull. Bear in mindthat some trimming and shaping will likelybe required to make the planks conform toyour marks. The supplemental sheet ofplank shapes was supplied to show the gen-eral shape of the spiled planks that con-form to the planking layout on plan sheet2. It is to assist you in visualizing what aplank shape for a particular location on thehull should look like whether you spileyour own or use the shapes as supplied. Ifyour marking out of the belts and plankwidths differs from the layout on plansheet 2, the plank shapes as shown may notquite fit. In any event they will be closeand may be used as patterns to developplanks that accurately fit your model. Ifyou choose to spile your own planks, pro-ceed as follows.Let's start with Belt A first and install the

plank at the belt batten. The batten can beused to spile against if necessary. Lay a pieceof planking stock over the bulkheads anddetermine if it needs to be spiled. If so,spile the plank edge to fit the batten edge.Next, in pencil, mark the overall length andcut the plank to its final length. Then markthe position of each bulkhead (importantfor measuring the plank width and to knowlocation of bulkheads for nailing). Using a set of dividers or tick strip, lift theplank widths from the marks on the bulk-heads and transfer to the stock. Draw a linethrough the points and cut the plank.Trace this tapered plank to obtain anotherfor the other side of the hull (Figure 2-4).Continue until this run is finished, thencomplete the others in Belt A and B. Steambending may be required at the bow andstern. Test each plank to see how easily itbends. If it appears the plank may break orbe difficult to fasten, then steam bend. When installing the uppermost or sheerstrake plank, the top edge is to be flushwith the top of the bulkheads. The deckplanksheer will fit on top of this plank.Sand the top edge of the plank flush withthe bulkheads (Figure 2-5).Laying the Planking in Belt C: This beltconsists of the garboard strake that is about5/16" wide at station 9-10 and a broadstrake about 1/4" wide. As these strakes goaft, they get much wider so a stealer hasbeen used in the garboard to keep the plankwidths within reason. The rest of the planksin Belt C are similar to the other belts butdo get wider going aft. Mark the butts asyou did in the other belts. Use the plankingprofile on Plan Sheet 2 to determine theplank widths in Belt C aft. The fore and aft

FIG. 2-5 SHEER STRAKE FIG. 2-6 SHEER STRAKE

FIG. 2-7

FIG. 2-9 DECK PLANKIN WAY OF COCKPIT

FIG. 2-8 DECK PLANKIN WAY OF CABINS

PLANKSHEERTO BEADDEDLATER

PLANKSHEER

DECK BEAMOR CARLING

FLUSHWITH

INSIDE OF DECKBEAM ORCARLING

DECK PLANK

SANDFLUSHWITH

SHEERSTRAKE

FLUSHWITH

INSIDEOF DECKBEAM ORCARLING

BULKHEAD

SHEER STRAKEFLUSH WITH

TOP OF BULKHEADS

DECKBEAM

ENDPLANKS

DECK PLANK

DECK BEAMOR CARLING

FLUSH WITHINSIDE OFCOCKPIT

DOOR

MOULDINGAROUNDCOCKPIT

COCKPITPLANK

SIDEPLANKS

CAR

BOTTOM PLANKS

FLUSH WITH TOP OF CARLINGSOR DECK BEAMS

11

planking view can’t show all the planks aft,so this view is necessary. Make sure the garboard fits nicely into therabbet along the keel. The garboard will be amost difficult strake to fit, so take your time.Note: It should be obvious by now that youwill not be able to simply select a strip of woodand plank the hull. Each plank will requirecutting from a wider wood strip. The kit con-tains wood of various widths for this purpose.Select the appropriate width for each plank.When the hull planking job is finished,sand the entire hull and if necessary fill anygaps between planks with glue or woodfiller. Make sure all planks fit the rabbet atthe keel, stem, and sternpost. Trim the endsif they are sticking out from the rabbet. It is advisable at this point to glue in somereinforcing blocks inside the hull in way ofthe chain plate locations. This will addthickness and provide a solid purchase forthe nails when the chain plates are laterinstalled.

8. Planking the DeckInstalling the planksheer: The planksheer,which is the continuous plank around theedge of the deck, is laser-cut from 1/16"basswood. Each half of the planksheerincludes 3/32" x 1/8" holes and one 3/32"

x 3/16" hole for the bulwark stanchionswhich will be discussed in Stage 4.Fit the planksheer on top of the bulkheads.The outer edge of the planksheer coversthe top of the sheer strake plank and willbe flush with the outside of the sheerstrake. Sand the edge of the planksheer ver-tically (Figure 2-6).Planking inside the cockpit: Plank thecockpit floor and vertical sides and endswith1/16" x 1/8" planks except for slightlywider planks to complete the run. The ver-tical planks fit inside the deck beams andcarlings and are flush with the top of thebeams and carlings (Figure 2-7).Installing the deck plank: The deck planklayout is shown on Plan Sheet 3. Planks are1/16" X 3/16" except for wider marginplanks in way of the cabin and cockpitsides. All planks are parallel to the center-line and there are no nibbed planks. Theplanks just feather off at the planksheer.Start planking at the centerline and workyour way port and starboard. As you plank,cut out the holes for the mast mortise, andthe holes for the windlass bitts and stackwhere the laser-cut blocks are located.Note: To indicate caulking between deckplanks, paint one edge of the deck plankdark brown before laying the plank. Becareful as you don't want to get any paint

on top of the plank. Another method,instead of painting the edge use the tancolored woodworkers glue when installingthe planks. It's dark enough to fake thecaulking.

Deck plank in way of cabins: Fit theplanks flush with the inside of the deckbeams and carlings in way of the cabins.The cabins will actually sit on top of theplank edge (Figure 2-8).

Deck plank in way of cockpit: In way ofthe cockpit, fit the planks to 1/16" insidethe deck beams and carlings, to be flushwith the inside of the cockpit verticalplanks. While you are at it, you can addthe moulding around the edge of the cock-pit and the two main sheet cleats on theport and starboard sides of the cockpitmoulding (Figure 2-9).

Note: In the above, this is the first time cleatshave been mentioned. Cleats are laser-cutfrom 1/16" cherry wood and are provided ina strip of eight cleats. Cut the cleats out fromthe strip and shape the ends. The cleats shouldbe about 3/8" long.

Sand the deck smooth before proceeding tothe bulwark installation.

There is still a lot of work to do and themodel can be mounted in a temporary cra-dle to hold it. However, now may be a goodtime to consider the final mounting.Mounting the hull now prevents damagingit when handling the model. Proper mount-ing is important, because future alignmentswill require a true waterline. While anymodeler can devise his own mounting, thiskit contains a launching ways system.Other options are noted below. No baseboard is included in the kit. Howev-er, one can be purchased from Model Expoor make your own from lumberyard stock.Cherry, Walnut, and Maple make nice basesthat are relatively inexpensive. Or, you coulduse a simple plywood base and build a ship-yard diorama. The choice is yours.

1. Launching Ways 5/16" square basswood strips are providedin the kit. Stain the basswood to look likeweathered wood or use a more finishedlooking stain. See Figure 3-1 for a suggestedassembly. There are a number of ways thismounting can be configured, so feel free todesign your own layout. Look at photos ofactual shipyard ways for ideas.Adjust the mounting as necessary so themodels load waterline (and the hull bottompaint line) is parallel with the baseboard.

2. Option - Mounting on Pedestals Brass or wooden pedestals can be purchasedfrom Model Expo. Drill the pilot holes forthe pedestals. The model should sit withthe load waterline parallel to the baseboard.If something went awry and the balance isoff, you can add a shim under one pedestalto correct it. One pedestal should be longerthan the other, so buy the correct lengths.

3. Model CaseModels should be cased to protect themfrom dirt and damage. Furthermore, most

competitions require entries to be cased. Acase, either glass or plastic, is a cheap insur-ance policy. Those who wish to follow thisroute should use the baseboard as the bot-tom of the case. A case’s outside dimensionshould be at least 4" longer than the model(2" fore and aft), 4" wider (2" port andstarboard), and 2" higher.

For the gamblers who don’t want a case,round the baseboard’s top edges or cut asimple chamfer. Those with access to arouter can cut mouldings along the edges.Paint or stain the baseboard.

STAGE 3: MOUNTING THE HULL

FIG. 3-1 LAUNCHING WAYS

MODELWATERLINE

TO BE PARALLELWITH BASE 5/16” SQ.

SUPPORTBLOCKS,

SET HEIGHTOF BLOCKSSO MODEL

WILL BEPARALLELTO BASE

5/16” SQ. CROSSBEAMS, 5 TO 6”LONG,SPACE

ABOUT 1”

SIDE BRACING USE1/8” SQ. BASSWOOD 5/16” SQ. MAIN RAILS

MOUNTEDMODEL

12

The bulwarks will probably be the most dif-ficult construction task on this particularmodel, especially for the beginner. Theangles of the stanchions, curvature of theoverall bulwark, shape of the bulwark plankstrake and the rails, are all critical to thesuccess of the completed bulwarks, so takeyour time. This stage discusses the bulwarks them-selves plus any of the fittings attached tothe bulwarks. All of the details are shownon Plan Sheet 2 and 3.Bulwark stanchions: The planksheer haspre-cut holes for the bulwark stanchions.The stanchions are lettered A through S onPlan Sheet 2 for identification. Stanchion Ais 3/32" x 3/16" and all others 3/32" x1/8". Plan Sheet 2 has sketches showing theangles the stanchions are to be fitted in rela-tion to the deck. The sketches also show thelengths of the stanchions above the top ofthe planksheer. The stanchions should fitinto the planksheer holes at least to the bot-tom of the planksheer. Shaping of the endsof the stanchions or tapering of the holesmay be necessary as the angle of the stan-chions become larger toward the bow.Pre-fit all the stanchions in the planksheerholes. It is not likely that all stanchions willbe at precisely the correct angle, so use abatten about 1/16" x 3/32" and clamp it tothe outside top of the stanchions to fair thealignment of the stanchions. When all thestanchions are at the correct angle, glue thestanchions in the holes. Super glue is idealfor this (Figure 4-1). Short knees: The next bulwark support aftof stanchion S is a short knee, port andstarboard. The knees are laser-cut from 1/8"basswood but required cutting some bevelsas shown in Detail 2-E on Plan Sheet 2.Glue the knees on top of the planksheerand deck plank (Figure 4-2). Long knee: Aft of the short knees, at sta-tion 19, there is a long knee, namedbecause the port and starboard knees areconnected at the center. This knee is alsolaser- cut from 1/8" basswood, but like theshort knees requires beveling. See Detail 2-E on Plan Sheet 2 and Figure 4-3.Note: Check the outboard angle of both theshort and long knees to make sure it is follow-ing the flow of the bulwark curve. You cancontinue the batten used for the stanchions asa guide.Knightheads and hawse timbers: On thereal boat the knightheads on each side ofthe bowsprit are separate timbers. Betweenthe knightheads and stanchion A are thehawse timbers, about two timbers on thereal boat. For the model, the knightheadsand hawse timbers can be cut from a single3/32" thick block. Note that the block will

STAGE 4: INSTALLING THE BULWARKS

FIG. 4-1 ALIGNING BULKWARK STANCHIONS

FIG. 4-3 LONG BULWARK KNEE AT STATION 19

FIG. 4-4 KNIGHTHEADS & HAWSE TIMBERS

TEMPORARYALIGNMENT BATTEN

STANCHIONS

PLANK

FIG. 4-2 ALIGNING BULWARK STANCHIONS

STANCHION “S”

BULWARKSTRAKE

PLANK SHEER

CAPRAIL LATER

LASER-CUTSHORT-KNEE P & S

LASER-CUT LONG SHEET HORSE

LASER-CUTLONG KNEE

BULWARK STRAKETO BE ADDED

LATER

PLANK SHEER

CUT SLOT FOR ANCHOR ROPEKNIGHTHEAD

BULWARK STRAKE

HAWSE TIMBERS

STEM

BOWSPRIT

BULWARKSTRAKE

PLANK SHEER

STANCHION “A”

13

be flush with stanchion A. Before gluing the block in place, shape thetop and bottom and cut the hawse slotwhere the anchor cable exits. Glue theblock on top of the planksheer and to theside of stanchion A (Figure 4-4).Note that the blocks are 1/16" higher thanthe top of the bowsprit. When the bowspritis installed, fit a 1/16" thick piece on top ofthe bowsprit between, and flush with, thetop of the knightheads (Figure 4-5).Tombstone and bulwark plank strake:The tombstone is like a transom. It is laser-cut from 3/32" basswood. First, cut thebevels on the tombstone as shown on PlanSheet 2. Notice that the top of the tomb-stone has a cut-out which is a boom crutchfor the main boom.The bulwark strakes are supplied as lasercut pieces. Plan sheet 3 shows the bulwarkstrake as three pieces with two butts and astealer which is probably how the real boatwas constructed. The bulwark strakes pro-vided are as developed for the prototypemodel and are in two pieces with one butt.The entire strake runs from the bow, cover-ing the knightheads and hawse timbers,back to the tombstone. From the long kneeat station 19, the bulwark cantilevers (over-hangs the hull) out to the tombstone. The bulwark strakes provided are deliber-ately long to allow trimming and fitting toyour model. Align the bottom edge of theforward strake to stanchion A at the bow.Mark the butt location at the appropriatestanchion aft and trim to fit. Fit the aftstrakes and you are ready to install.Glue the bulwark strake from the bow backto the long knees at station 19. Note thatthe bulwark strake from the bow to the rearside of stanchion A goes down to the deck.Aft of stanchion A, the strake is above thedeck which provides a long scupper for rid-ding the deck of water. Before gluing, dou-ble check that the top of the bulwark strakeat the tombstone is the same height abovebaseline on both sides (Figure 4-6).Next, glue the bulwark strake to the sides ofthe tombstone. Note that the bulwark strakecurves from station 19 to the tombstone. Thestrake will be held in the correct position bythe metal bar bracket at the sternpost whichwill be installed later. For now, pin a tem-porary strut across the top and bottom of thebulwark strake to hold the correct curve(Figure 4-7).Bulwark stiffening aft and seat of ease:You are now starting to complete the bul-wark area that overhangs the hull. First, addthe 3/32" square stiffener at the bottom ofthe bulwark strake from the tombstone tothe long knees at station 19. Then, add the2 vertical 3/32" x 1/8" stiffeners. Note theyare not exactly vertical, and that they go upto the rail location. To stiffen the sides ofthe bulwarks, add the bar bracket. See

Detail 2-C on Plan Sheet 2 and Figure 4-8.The seat of ease platform (with the hole) islaser-cut from 1/16" basswood. First, addthe cross support at the front of the seat.The seat platform sides may need to betrimmed to fit the side of the bulwarkstrake and requires a cut-out for the lastvertical stiffener. On top of the seat, addthe hinged cover, cut from 1/16" basswood.The hinges can be faked with a strip ofbrass, self adhesive metal tape, tin foil orany thin metallic material. However, noneof these materials are contained in the kit.Bulwark cap rail: The rail is the final partof the bulwarks themselves. Glue the laser

cut rail pieces together over the plans usingwaxed paper to avoid gluing to the plans.Align the joints as shown on the plans. Theends will be a bit long to allow for fitting.5 minute epoxy is ideal for this. Roundthe top edges of the rail and fit to yourmodel. Some trimming at the ends will berequired. The rail is flexible enough to con-form to the proper shape to fit the stan-chions. A few nails through the rail intothe stanchion ends will assist in gluing therail in place. Predrill the nail holes to avoidsplitting the stanchions. The nails can beleft in or removed and the holes filled.Main sheet and jib sheet horse: Both the

FIG. 4-5 BLOCK ON TOP OF BOWSPRIT

FIG. 4-6 INSTALLING THE BULWARK STRAKE

FIG. 4-7 INSTALLING THE TOMBSTONE &SHAPING THE BULWARK STRAKE AFT

STANCHION“A”

KNIGHTHEAD

BULWARK STRAKEBOWSPRIT

FIT 1/16" THICKBLOCK BETWEEN

TOP OF KNIGHTHEADS

AFTER BOWSPRITIS INSTALLED

ATBOWSPRITOPENING

LONGKNEE AT

STATION 19

TAPEREDGES

LASER-CUTTOMBSTONE

STERNPOST

USE TEMPORARY STRUTS TOSET THE PROPER CURVE IN THE

BULWARK STRAKE

CUT SLOT TOMATCH SLOT

IN HAWSETIMBERS

STANCHION“A”

OTHERSTANCHIONS

TYPICAL BUTT

COVERS STANCHION“A”, KNIGHTHEAD &HAWSE TIMBERS

STEALER

LEAVE AFT ENDLOOSE FOR NOWFOR COMPLETION

SEE FIGURE 4-7

GLUE TO LONG KNEE ATSTATION 19

14

main sheet horse and the jib sheet horse arelaser cut but requires shaping as shown inDetail 2-D and 2-E on Plan Sheet 2. Gluethe main sheet horse to the long knees atstation 19. The jib sheet horse butts into a1/16" x 3/16" support plank glued to stan-chions D and E. Trimming the ends of thehorse may be necessary to fit.

Note: The main sheet horse is laser-cut from3/16" basswood but should be 5/32" wide, sosand it down before rounding the center. Thiswas just a convenience for the manufactureras no other 5/32" laser-cut parts were needed.

Catheads and cathead cleats: The catheadsare laser-cut from 3/16" basswood and glueto the rail and bulwark strake. Some trim-ming may be necessary to fit your made railand strake. Also, cut the groove in the topfor the anchor holding line. Beforeinstalling the catheads, add the eyebolt inthe underside (Figure 4-10).

There is a cleat on the inboard side of stan-chion C, port and starboard. Add these atthis time.

Anchor chafing bar: On top of each railjust in back of the catheads there is a metalchafing bar. 1/16" brass bar has been pro-vided in the kit for the bar but you willneed to shape it to the curve. Another wayto do this is to hammer some small diame-ter wire solder flat and shape to the curve.

Hawse slot chafing bar: There is a smallhalf-round bar in line with the hawse timberslots as a chafing bar for the anchor rope.Use a brass bar and file it to a half roundshape or use solder as described above.

Note: On the real boat, there is a slight differ-ence in the camber of the fore and aft cabintops, and a slight difference between the frontand rear camber of the aft cabin top. Howev-er, for the model design, a uniform camberhas been used for both cabins. Consequently,all the cabin top beams have identical camber.This provides a simpler cabin top constructionand does not have any noticeable effect on theappearance of the cabins.Both cabin sides and ends are made up of3/32" thick planking. The cabins sit on topof the deck plank and the inside of theplanking is flush with the inside of the deckbeams and carlings. On the real boat, thereis a coaming around the inside of the deckbeams and carlings which extends severalinches above the deck. Obviously, thiscoaming prevents the entrance of water intothe boat under the cabin planks. Also, thereis a possibility that the cabins were remov-able leaving the coamings around the open-

ings; only a guess. In any case, the coamingis not needed for the model. Instead, theplan view and Detail 2-A on Plan Sheet 2shows some 3/32" x 3/16" basswood tabsaround the deck beams and carlings. Thesetabs are for positioning the cabins and canalso be used as glue tabs for securing thecabins to the deck.The cabin construction is shown on Plan Sheet 3.Side and end planking: There are a numberof ways to approach the cabin construction,but here's a suggestion. Follow the plankinglayout on the plan. Pre-glue up a panelfrom 3/32" planks for the front and rearends of the cabins and the cabin sides. Cutthe camber curve into the top of the ends.The plan should be correct but make surethe top camber curve on the ends is identi-cal to the shape of the laser-cut cabin topbeams. Next, cut the sheer curve for thesides. Caution-don't forget the bevel at the

top of the sides to account for the cabin topcamber. Leave the lower planks wider thanthe final shape for now. Cut the lower camber (hull deck camber)on the cabin ends to match the deck. Cutthe outer edges of the cabin ends. Noticethe slope that gives a slight tumblehome tothe cabin sides. Fit a template card insidethe cabin carlins at the deck and mark thedeck sheer. Transfer this to the cabin sides.Bevel the bottom edge of the cabin sides toaccount for the tumblehome. Cut the cabinsides to length, then glue the sides to theends, making sure the cabins fit the deckshape and the inside is flush with the deckbeams and carlings.You now have a box for each cabin that fitsthe deck and you can complete the rest ofthe cabin detail with the cabins off themodel. The cabins can be completed andpainted and then plopped in place on thedeck. Again, just make sure the cabins are

STAGE 5: BUILDING AND INSTALLING THE CABINS

HAWSE TIMBERSLASER-CUT SEAT OFBASE SHAPE SIDES

TO FIT AGAINSTBULWARK STRAKE

NOTCH IN WAYOF BULKWARK

STIFFENERVERTICAL

STIFFENERS

SEAT OF BASE SUPPORT

BAR BRACKET FROM STERNPOST

3/32” SQ. STIFFENEER FROMSTATION 19 TO TOMBSTONE

AT BOTTOM OF BULWARKSTRAKE

FIG. 4-8 BULKWARK DETAILS AFT OF STATION 19

FIG. 4-9 INSTALLING THE CAP RAIL

FIG. 4-10 INSTALLINGTHE CATHEADS

RAIL ALONG STANCHIONS

RAIL ATAFT KNEES

RAIL ATTOMBSTONE

CLEAT INSIDESTANCHION “C”

LASER-CUTCATHEAD P/S

EYEBOLT

15

going to fit on the deck properly whencompleted.Now you need to drill holes in the ends andsides for the port light britannia castings,cut an eliptical hole (compass view win-dow) in the rear side of the aft cabin, andcut-outs in way of both companionwayopenings. As an option, drill and cut theseopenings before the four sides of the cabinare glued together. The companionway cut-outs could even be left out as you do thebasic plank panels. This would probably bethe best way to go. It is easier to handleindividual panels rather than a box.For more realism, fit the port light castingsand the compass window with plastic sheetor glass. Also, if you can see anything insidethe cabin through the port lights, paint theinside of the cabins flat black.Figure 5-1 illustrates the cabin assemblythus far.Cabin top beams, carlings, planking, andedge moulding: The cabin beams are laser-cut from 1/8" basswood. All parts are thesame length so mark a centerline on allbeams and cut the ends off to the correctlength as needed. Install the beams and thecarlings in locations shown on the plan.Plank the top of the cabins with 1/16" x3/16" planks except for the wider planks atthe sides. Fit all planks flush with the insideof the openings bounded by the beams andcarlings. Finally, add the 3/32" half-roundedge moulding around the cabin tops (Fig-ure 5-2). Galley stack: The galley stack is the sametype casting as used for the deck cabinheater. First, fit the laser-cut 3/16" bass-wood block which is the stacks base. Taperthe bottom of the base to the cabin topcamber so its top will be level. Finally, fitthe stack in the pre-cut hole in the laser-cutblock. For length, drill a hole through thecabin top plank or just cut off the bottomof the stack casting (Figure 5-3). Lift hatch: This is a very simple lift hatch.Construct from stripwood. Drill a hole in thetop for the port light casting (Figure 5-4).Skylight: The ridge piece is the only itemon the skylight that needs a little carvingfrom stripwood. Most of the other parts arefairly straight forward. As with the lifthatch, you need holes for the port lightcastings. The hinges can be faked withbrass, self adhesive metal foil, tin foil, orany thin metallic material. However, noneof these materials are contained in the kit(Figure 5-5).Companionways: Companionways arealways fun to make. The forward and aftercabin companionways are identical, exceptfor the lengths of the hatch slides.First, make and fit the 1/16" thick sill inway of the lift panels. Then install the3/64" lift panel guides on each side of the

cabin end planks. Cut the lift panels from3/32" basswood and carve the lift handlesfrom wood. Fit the lift panels in the guides.Cut the slides from 3/32" basswood. Addthe slide groove for super detail or admit it.Plank up the sliding hatch cover and drill ahole for the port light casting. Add thecross piece at the aft end of the companionopening and the apron on the hatch cover.You can add the actual side track under thehatch but since it cannot be seen, it couldbe omitted on the model.

FIG. 5-1 CABIN SIDES & ENDS ASSEMBLY

FIG. 5-2 CABIN TOP FRAMING & PLANKING

FIG. 5-5 INSTALLINGTHE SKYLIGHT

FIG. 5-4 INSTALLINGTHE LIFT HATCH

FIG. 5-3 INSTALLING

THEGALLEYSTACK

AFT CABIN SHOWN,FORWARD CABIN SIMILAR

SHAPE TOP TO CURVEON PLAN & TO MATCH

LASER-CUTCABIN TOP BEAMS

SHAPE TO TOPSIDE TO CURVE

SHOWN ON PLAN

SHAPE TO DECK SHEER

CUT-OUT FOR COMPASSVIEW PORT

(AFT CABIN ONLY)

DRILL HOLES FORPORTLIGHT CASTINGS

ALL 3/32” THICKPLANKING

SHAPE TODECK

CAMBER

CUT-OUT FORCOMPANION

WAY

CARLINGS -THEY DEFINE

OPENINGS FORHATCHES,

SKYLIGHT, ETC.

LASER-CUT CABINTOP BEAMS

CABIN TOPPLANKS

AFT CABIN SHOWN,FORWARD CABIN SIMILAR

EDGE MOULDING

AFT CABIN

LIFT HATCH

HOLE FORPORTLIGHT

CASTING

STACK CASTING:CUT-OFF BOTTOM

OR DRILL HOLETHRU CABIN

PLANK TO SETCORRECT HEIGHT

OF STACK

AFTCABIN

HINGE

WATERTROUGH

RIDGEBEAM WATER

STOP

BASEFRAME

HOLE FORPORTLIGHT

CASTING

WATERSTOP

GROOVE

BASE FRAME

LASER-CUT BLOCKSHAPE BOTTOM OFCURVE OF CABIN

TOP - TOP OFBLOCK IS LEVEL

16

Figure 5-6 shows the companionway assem-bly. Also, refer to the section on Plan Sheet 3.

Handrails: The handrails, port and star-board, are laser cut from 1/16" cherrywood. There are two long and 2 shorterones. Fit two full length on the forwardcabin. For the aft cabin, fit the appropriatelengths as they are shown on the plans.Round the edges of the portion that isgrabbed by hand.

Rudder, tiller, and tiller comb: The rud-der is laser-cut from 3/16" basswood. Taperthe rudder according to Plan Sheet 2. Cut aslot at the top of the rudder stock for thetiller. On each side of the rudder in way ofthe tiller slot there are galvanized sheetmetal cheek plates. These can be fakedusing brass, self adhesive metal foil, tin foilor any thin metallic material, or just paint.However, none of these materials areincluded in the kit. Drill a hole through theupper end of the stock for a pin to hold thetiller.Make the pintles and gudgeons from 1/64"x 3/32" brass strip. The details are shown inDetail 3-F on Plan Sheet 3. Figure 6-1shows some model simplifications. Nail orjust glue the pintles and gudgeons to therudder and to the sternpost. Mount the rud-der on the hull without the tiller for now.Notice the wood lock under the upper gud-geon. On the real boat this block of woodprevents the rudder from unshipping at sea.The tiller comb is an interesting detail onthis boat. The plate on the tiller is set intothe comb slots at various angles for hands-off locking of the tiller. Make the tillercomb from brass strip. File the slots in thetop edge of the comb as shown in Detail 3-F of Plan Sheet 3 and Figure 6-2. Glue orpin the comb to the deck in the locationshown on Plan Sheet 3.The tiller is laser-cut from 3/32" basswood.Round the edges of the tiller along the for-ward portion. Drill a hole in the aft end forthe pin through the rudder head. Glue a1/64" brass flat bar to the starboard side ofthe tiller. Fit the tiller under the main sheethorse and into the slot in the rudder headand add the pin. Set the flat bar into one ofthe tiller comb slots (preferably the centerslot on the model) (Figure 6-3).Water barrels: The two water barrels arelathe-turned from wood. These are stock

turnings and can be improved byscribing some grooves to representstave seams, and the turned hoopscan be flattened to look more realis-tic.The cradles for the barrels are laser-cut from 3/32" basswood. They areall the same depth so cut the bottomoff for the inboard cradles. The bar-rels should sit horizontally. On eachside of the cradles add an eyebolt fora tie down rope (Figure 6-4). Locatethe barrels on deck as shown on PlanSheet 3.

STAGE 6: COMPLETING THE REMAINING HULL DETAILS

FIG. 5-6 INSTALLING THE COMPANIONWAY 3

FIG. 6-1 PINTLES &GUDGEONS

SLIDE

TOPSIDE-FRAME

LIFTPANEL

GUIDES

PINTLE SOLID BLOCK

BRASS STRIP

BLOCK WITH HOLE CAN BE OMITTED

SOLDER PIN

BRASS PIN,SOLDER OR

GLUE & CUT OFF

OPTIONOMIT HOLES & PINS,

GLUE TO RUDDER & HULL

MODEL OPTIONS

GUDGEON

FLAT BAR

FLAT BAR

SOLDER

PIN OMITTEDRUDDER FIXED IN ONE POSITION

BOLT

PIN

LIFTPANELS

FRAME

APRON ONBACKSIDEOF HATCH

SLIDE HATCH

SLIDE

GROOVEIN SLIDE

SCUPPER

HOLE FOR PORTLIGHT CASTING

STOP FOR APRON

SILL

FIG. 6-2 MAKING THETILLER COMBO

FIG. 6-3 TILLER DETAILS

FIG. 6-4 WATER BARRELS

FILE SLOTSIN BAR

RUDDER

PIN

LASER-CUT TILLERCUT HOLE

SHAPE OF STOCKBARREL

SCRIBESTAVES

FORADDEDDETAIL

BRASSFLAT BAR

TIE-DOWNCORD

EYEBOLTLASER-CUT CRADLES

ROUND THEEDGES

FITS INTO TILLERCOMB SLOTS

SOLDER

PIN TO DECK OR GLUE

CUT FROMWIDE BRASS

STRIP

LATHETURNEDSTOCKBARREL

CUTDOWN

HEIGHT OFINBOARDCRADLES

17

Cabin heater stack: The cabin heater stackis a britannia casting. Fit it in the hole ondeck, starboard side, as shown on PlanSheet 3.Cockpit drain and scupper: The cockpitdrain is shown on Plan Sheet 3. This can besimply a hole on the model. The drain ispiped to a scupper pipe on the starboardside of the hull, also shown on Plan Sheet 3.This too can be a simple hole on the model.Deck coamings outboard of the cockpit:Cut the port and starboard coaming oneach side of the cockpit from 1/16" bass-wood as shown in Detail 3-D on Plan Sheet3. The coamings fit between the aft cabinand the short bulwark knees. As shown onthe deck plan, the coamings have a slightcurvature so steam bend them to the curvebefore gluing to the deck.Bowsprit, bitts, and windlass: The con-struction of the bowsprit is discussed inStage 7. However, it is best installed at thistime in order to complete the deck details.Cut the windlass bitts (could be calledbowsprit bitts) from 3/16" square bass-wood. Fit into the deck holes on each sideof the center keel. Fit the bowsprit throughthe gap between the bulwarks and betweenthe windlass bitts. Notice that the bowspritis tapered at the heel so does not touch thedeck at that point. Add the 1/16" block ontop of the bowsprit between the knight-heads. This was noted earlier during thebulwark discussion (Figure 6-5).The windlass is shown in Detail 3-E onPlan Sheet 3. The britannia casting consists

of three basic parts; the windlass, straps,and pawl. There are no whelps on the cast-ing. Add these with brass strip. Strap thewindlass to the bitts with the two castings.Pin or just glue. The casting is best dis-played with the ratchet crank pointed downat the deck. This is the most likely positionwhen windlass is not being used. If you doraise the cranks, drill a hole in the ends forthe crank pole. The holes are not in thecasting. Next, pin the pawl castings to theside of the bitts (Figure 6-6).The hand crank windlass is cranked withwooden poles. Most likely these were stowedbelow when not used so are not shown.Anchors and anchor stowage: The fisher-man type anchor is a britannia casting(two provided). Make the wooden stocksfrom stripwood. Details are shown on PlanSheet 4.On the model, the anchors can be displayedin various ways as shown on Plan Sheet 4.However, if one anchor is displayed hang-ing from the roller chock on the bowsprit,the other should be lashed to the rail. Stem band: There is a stem band on thefront of the stem as shown on the profileview of Plan Sheet 3. A 1/64" x 3/32" brassstrip is intended for this band or use flat-tened solder.Fore sheet eyebolt: Just so you don't for-get, install the fore sheet eyebolt on center-line just forward of the mainmast as shownon the deck plan of Plan Sheet 3.Rigging plates: There are several other rig-ging fittings attached to the hull: bowsprit

gammon iron, bowsprit footrope eyebolts,bowsprit shroud plates, bowsprit bobstayplates, and chain plates for the shrouds.These fittings will be discussed during themasting and rigging stages. Well, you are finished a major part of themodel - the hull. Before getting into themast, spars and the rigging, stop and takeanother look to make sure everything isdone to this point. Now is the time to cor-

STAGE 7: MAST AND SPAR CONSTRUCTION

FIG. 6-5 INSTALLINGWINDLASS BITTS & BOWSPRIT

FIG. 6-6 WINDLASS INSTALLATION

BITTSP&S

BOWSPRIT

BITTSSAMEP&S

PAWLCASTING

GLUEWHELPSTRIPSTO CASTING

WINDLASSCASTINGSTRAP CASTING

ADD BLOCK BETWEENKNIGHTHEADS REFER

BACK TO FIG. 4-5

There are various opinions regarding theuse of the term mast and spar. Is a mast alsoa spar? Herein, spars are defined as thebowsprit, booms, gaffs, and jib club. Mastsare the foremast and mainmast.Details of all mast and spars with dimen-sions are shown on Plan Sheet 4.

1. Shaping & Tapering Masts & Spars

Beech dowels are provided for the masts andspars (except for the bowsprit), but requireshaping and tapering. Being round, a dowelis difficult to taper. The best approach is tofirst cut, plane, or file the dowel from roundat maximum diameter to square at the ends,then to eight sided, and perhaps even 16sided. Now sand or file it round. Thisapproach prevents turning a dowel into anoval (Figure 7-1). If the taper is very slightyou may not be able to cut it square at theend. Try to cut the taper on four sides downto the approximate diameter, then sandround. Although a little tricky, another wayis to chuck a dowel into an electric drill orlathe and sand in the taper.

FIG. 7-1 SHAPING & TAPERING MASTS & SPARS

FIG. 7-2 MAKING EYE BANDS

DESIRED CURVE - MATHEMATICALLY A

PARABOLA, BUTVERY CLOSE TO THEARC OF A CIRCLE -

SIMPLY TAPER SPARGRADUALLY

TOWARD THE END

STRAIGHT LINEWRONG

BRASSFLAT BAR

SHAPE EYES,DRILL HOLES

USE EYEBOLTS FOR EYES

SOLDER

SOLDER BAR, OR LAP TAPE

BOWSPRIT

PIN TOSTEM

BRASSFLATBAR

PIN ATCENTERBRASS BAR OR

SELF-ADHESIVECOPPER TAPE

ROUND DOWEL

BOTTOM OF MAST,MAX. DIA. OF GAFF/BOOM,

OR CL OF YARD

FIRST CUT TOSQUARE IF

TAPER ALLOWS CUT TO OCATAGON SAND ROUND

FIG. 7-3BOWSPRITGAMMONIRON

18

2. Building & Installing the Bowsprit In the last stage, it was suggested that youinstall the bowsprit to complete the hull, sohere are the details up front.Basic bowsprit: Since the bowsprit is partlysquare and 8-sided in shape a 5/16" squarebasswood strip has been provided for thespar. Taper the spar as shown on Plan Sheet4. Start with the heel which is tapered to arectangular section at the bitts. Outboard ofthe hull it is 8-sided, then round. There aretwo shoulders at the outer end where themetal eye bands are located. Drill a hole forthe jib stay between the two bands.Eye bands: Make the two bands at theouter end from 1/64" x 3/32" brass flat bar.Figure 7-2 shows some variations for mak-ing the bands. Also these can be faked byusing strips of black paper such as photomounting paper and eyebolts. Gammon iron: The gammon iron securesthe bowsprit to the hull stem. Make the fit-ting from 1/64" x 3/32" brass flat bar.There are two parts as the fitting is boltedtogether on top of the bowsprit. A suggest-ed method to make this part is to form thetabs at the joint and solder the tabs togeth-er. Then use a piece of 5/16” square stockto bend the brass around. Use pliers toachieve the final shape and cut off the endsto fit. Pin or just glue the fitting to thestem (Figure 7-3).Cleat: Install the cleat on top of thebowsprit. The cleat is for belaying the jibdownhaul. Cut the cleat from the laser-cutcherry strip of cleats.Roller chocks: The roller chocks on eachside of the bowsprit for the anchor line arebritannia castings. Drill holes in the fittingsfor pins or nails, or just glue the chocks tothe sides of the bowsprit (Figure 7-4).Jackstays: The jackstays hold the gasketswhich are used to tie down the jib whenfurled. Make the jackstays from 1/16" x3/64" basswood strip. The 3/64" dimensionis the width of the strip. Drill the holes forthe gaskets (Figure 7-5).Installation: This was discussed in the pre-vious stage.

3. Building & Installing the Masts3/8" dowels are provided for both masts. Basic foremast and mainmast: Taper themast in accordance with Plan Sheet 4. Themast is 3/8" diameter from the deck up tothe gooseneck (foremast) and boom jaw rest(mainmast), then tapers to a shoulder nearthe top, then to the top. Cut the heel of themast below deck to a 1/4" square tenon to fitthe mortise in the center keel (Figure 7-6). Foremast gooseneck mast band: Thegooseneck band along with the fittings thatattach to the boom are britannia castings.The band is in two parts. Fit these to themast. Pin the sides or just glue together

around the mast (Figure 7-7).Mainmast boom jaw rest: Make the boomjaw rest from 1/8" thick basswood. Fit itaround the mast and add a brass bandaround the edge, or omit the band. Theboom jaw rest is supported by 3 chocksmade from basswood (Figure 7-8).Gaff and boom chafing plates: The realboat has a galvanized sheet metal wrappingon both masts where the gaffs sit in theraised position, and a sheet on the mainmast above the boom jaw rest. This sheetmetal on the model can be brass, self adhe-sive metal foil, tin foil, or any thin metallicmaterial. Or, just fake it with paint. Noneof the suggested materials are contained inthe kit. Dig into your scrap pile.Eyebolts: Fit the eyebolts in the forwardside of both masts. The eyebolt in the fore-mast is for the jib club topping lift, and inmainmast for the fore boom topping lift.Stop chocks: Make the stop chocks from1/16" square (or larger) basswood. Thereare two at the top of the foremast and oneon the mainmast (Figure 7-9).Throat halliard lead blocks: The throathalliard lead blocks are similar but differentsizes on fore and mainmast. Make thesefrom basswood (Figure 7-10).Topping lift cheek block: The cheek blockis for the main boom topping lift and is onthe port side of the mast. No part is sup-plied in the kit for this fitting. Figure 7-11

gives some ideas for making it from scratch.Belaying cleats and thumb cleat: Thereare 5 double-ended cleats and one thumbcleat on each mast. For the double-endedcleats, cut them from the laser-cut cherrycleat strip provided in the kit. No part isprovided for the two thumb cleats; howev-er, they are easily made from scrap cherryholding the cleat strips. Mast coats: On a real boat the mast issecured at the deck by wedges, then coveredby a canvas cover called a mast coat. Thecanvas is fixed to the mast and to the deckby lead hoops, or possibly just nailed. Forthe model, the mast coat can be made byusing some cloth strips, or faked by carvingthe shape from basswood (Figure 7-12). Mast hoops: Mast hoops are laser-cut from1/16" plywood. Sand the edges and stainthe hoops. There are 10 hoops for the fore-mast and 11 for the mainmast. The hoopsshould fit over the mast and the throat hal-

FIG. 7-6SHAPING

THE MASTS

FIG. 7-8MAINMASTBOOM JAW

REST

FIG. 7-9STOP

CHOCK

FIG. 7-10THROAT

HALLIARDLEAD

BLOCK

FIG. 7-7FOREMAST

GOOSENECKFITTINGS

FIG. 7-5 BOWSPRIT JACKSTAYS

DRILL HOLESFOR SECURING

PINS

SHOULDER

TAPER

DECK

FOREMAST

MAX.DIAMETER

SUGGEST MAKEREST IN TWO

HALVES

METALBAND

CUTGROOVEFOR LINE

LEAD BLOCKSIMILARFORE &

MAINMAST,EXCEPT

FOR SIZE

PINCHOCKS

NOTE:REST IS NOT

PERPENDICULARTO MAST

CENTERLINE

CUT1/4" SQ.TENONTO FIT

SLOT INCENTER

KEEL

SAMEP&S

BOWSPRIT

FOREMAST

NOTE:FITTING IS

PERPENDICULAR TOMAST CENTERLINE

CASTINGPART 1

CASTINGPART 2

PIN

HOLESFOR

GASKETS

JACKSTAYP&S

FIG. 7-4 BOWSPRIT ROLLERCHOCK CASTING

19

liard lead block. But just in case they won'tthey can be placed on the mast beforeadding other fittings. They definitelyshould be on the mast before any rigging isdone. Temporarily tape them down to themast so they don't flop all over the place asyou work on the mast.Installation: Set the masts in the mortiseson the deck. Check the rake of the mastsand check that the masts are vertical look-ing aft. Mast rakes are set by the pre-cutslots in the center keel. However, the actualrake angles relative to the baseline, and thedesign waterline are given on Plan Sheet3.Trim the mast tenon if necessary to alignthe masts correctly. You may need to addsome shims. The mast coats can be added after the mastsare mounted, or add the coat on the mastsbeforehand.

4. Building & Installing the Booms Dowels are provided for the booms; 3/16" forthe fore boom and 1/4" for the main boom. Basic fore boom: Taper the boom accordingto Plan Sheet 4. Note that the maximumdiameter in the center of the boom. Drill ahole in the forward end for the gooseneckfitting. Drill a small horizontal hole at theaft end for seizing the clew of the foresail.Basic main boom: Taper the boom accord-ing to Plan Sheet 4. Note that the maximumdiameter is closer to the aft end. Flatten thesides of the boom in way of the boom jaws.At the aft end, cut a slot and add a sheave forthe clew outhaul. However, just a small holecan be used as a model option.Foremast gooseneck: The fittings on theboom are castings as noted previously whendiscussing the mast band. The two fittingsmay require that you drill out the holes forthe pin to connect the two fittings (Figure7-13).Mainmast boom jaws: The boom jaws arelaser-cut from 1/8" basswood. Glue the twohalves to the flat portion on the forwardend of the boom. Add pins to representbolts or these could be omitted on themodel. Between the jaws, install the clappermade from basswood (Figure 7-14).Sheet bands: The sheet bands for both thefore and mainmast are similar, just differentsizes. Make the bands from 1/64" x 3/32"brass flat bar and use brass rod for the bail(Figure 7-15). Topping lift band: Make this band from1/64" x 3/32" brass flat bar. Refer back toFigure 7-2 for details.Cleats: Only one cleat is required, and thatis on the port side of the main boom. Thecleat is for the clew outhaul tackle. Cut thecleat from the laser-cut cherry cleat strip.Stop chocks: The fore boom has no stopchocks. On the main boom add the chockswhich hold the clew outhaul tackle. The

chocks are similar to chocks on the mast.Refer back to Figure 7-9.Eyebolts: On the fore and main boom addthe eyebolts at the forward end of theboom for seizing the tack of the sails. Onthe fore boom, add the eyebolt in the aftend which will be used to hook the foreboom topping lift.Clew outhaul traveler ring: The travelerring for the clew outhaul can be a split ringmade from brass rod and installed while

rigging. However, if you want to use a sol-dered ring, place it on the main boombefore other fittings.Installation: Booms will be installed laterwhile rigging, to be discussed in a later stage.

5. Building & Installing the GaffsA 5/32" dowel is provided for the both gaffs.Basic fore and main gaffs: Taper the gaffsin accordance with Plan Sheet 4. Flattenthe sides of the gaffs in way of the gaff jaws.Drill a horizontal hole near the outer end ofthe gaffs which is used for seizing the sail.Gaff jaws: The gaff jaws are laser-cut from3/32" basswood. Glue the two halves to theflat portion on the forward end of theboom. Add pins to represent bolts or thesecould be omitted on the model. Betweenthe jaws, install the clapper made frombasswood. The details are similar to themain boom jaws except for the basic sizeand shape of the clapper.Stop chocks: There are two sets of stopchocks on each gaff. These hold the peak halliards in place. The chocks are similar tochocks on the mast. Refer back to Figure 7-9.Eyebolts: Place an eyebolt in the top of theforward end of the gaffs for the throat hal-liard hook. Fit another under the boom forseizing the sail. Fit an eyebolt in the aft endof the gaff. This eyebolt is most likely for aflag halliard if ever used.

Installation: Gaffs will be installed whilerigging, to be discussed in a later stage.

6. Building & Installing the Jib Club

A 3/32" dowel is provided for the jib club.Basic jib club: Taper the jib club accordingto Plan Sheet 4. Drill a horizontal in eachend which is used to seize the jib sail.Stop chocks: There are two stop chocks atthe center of the jib club. These hold the jibsheet. The chocks are similar to chocks onthe mast. Refer back to Figure 7-9.Eyebolts: Fit an eyebolt in the aft end ofthe jib club. The eyebolt is for hooking thejib club topping lift (and anchor tackle).Installation: The jib club will be installedalong with the sail discussed in a later stage.if sails are not used on the model, the jibclub could be omitted altogether. This willbe discussed later.

FIG. 7-11MAIN BOOM

TOPPING LIFTCHEEK BLOCK

FIG. 7-12MASTCOAT

MAIN MAST

BRASSSTRIP

FWDSHEAVE:

LATHE-TURNOR PURCHASE

A BRASS FITTING

RING:TAPE

OR PAINT

BRASS BAND ORSELF-ADHESIVE

METAL TAPE

CARVE FROMWOOD AND

PAINTOPTION:

COVER WTHGAUZE TOSIMULATE CANVAS

WOODBLOCK

FIG. 7-13 FOREMOSTGOOSENECK BOOM FITTING

FIG. 7-15 BOOM SHEET BANDS

FIG. 7-14 MAIN BOOM JAWS

FOREBOOM

LASER-CUTJAWS

DRILL HOLEFOR BARREL

BRASSBANDS

BRASS ROD BAIL

SOLDERBAIL &

CUT-OFF

PIN FORCLAPPER

BOLT PINS, OR GLUE TO BOOM

CLAPPERMAINBOOM

DRILL HOLE IN BOOMFOR FITTING

FIT INTO GOOSENECK BAND ON MAST

CASTINGPART 4

DRILL-OUT

HOLES

PINCASTINGPART 3

20

Newcomers to the nautical world shouldlearn the following rigging terms used onthe plans and in instructions. Only thoseterms applicable to this model are men-tioned. For more nautical terms refer to thebooks in the bibliography.Sail terms: Each edge and corner of a sailhas a name. On a fore and aft sail, the topis the head, bottom the foot, aft side theleech, and forward side the luff. The lowerforward corner is the tack, aft lower cornerthe clew, upper forward corner the throat,and the aft upper corner the peak. A trian-gular sail is similar, but the upper corner iscalled the head. It has no throat or peak.Standing rigging: Fixed rigging supportingmasts and yards. Generally, standing riggingis tarred; hence, it is black or dark brown.Shrouds: Transverse lines supporting themasts. Deadeyes are wood and have threeholes for reeving the lanyards (lines used totighten shrouds, stays, and other lines). Chain plates: Iron bars or rods holdingshroud deadeyes along the hull.Footropes: Lines on spars on which seamenstand while working and furling sails. Stays: Lines supporting the masts from foreand aft forces. Bobstays: Support the bowsprit fromupward loads. Bowsprit shrouds, or guyssupport the bowsprit from side forces.Running rigging: Lines that move, reeve (go)through blocks, or operate sails and spars. Blocks: Wooden or metal shells withsheaves (pulleys) for handling lines. A pur-chase (tackle) consists of several blocks anda line to provide a mechanical advantage forhandling sails and spars. Jig tackle is a termdescribing a tackle at the deck end of a rig.Halliards or halyards: Lines for raisingand lowering a sail, boom, gaff, or flag. Forgaffs, the outer halliard is the peak halliard.At the gaff jaws is a throat halliard, namedfor the part of the sail it operates. Down-hauls, outhauls, and inhauls drag a sailalong a boom or up and down a stay. Sheets: Lines holding the lower corners of asail or boom. When not in use, sails arefurled (bundled on the booms). Reef bands: Horizontal reinforcing bandson a sail. They have short lengths of ropecalled reef points. In heavy weather, sailorstie the reef points to the boom to shortenthe sail.Parrels or parrals: Line holding gaffs andbooms to their respective masts. Topping lift: Line holding up the end of aboom when the gaff is down or absent. 1. Rigging Scheme As a schooner, Glad Tidings is an idealmodel for adding a full set of sails. Or, a setof furled sails also looks nice. Of course,

you can omit sails altogether and this willbe discussed in later stages.

SEQ CHAPTER 12. SailmakingMaterial: Choosing the proper material iscritical. Sailcloth must be lightweight, yetfairly opaque. Tightly woven cotton isacceptable and available from Model Expo.Since this is a fairly large scale model, heav-ier linen could also be used. You can usuallyfind this material in fabric shops.Sewing Aids: Visit a fabric shop and pur-chase a bottle of Fray-Chek. Running orbrushing it along the edge of the cloth pre-vents the material from unraveling whencut and produces a sharp edge. Apply it tothe sail before rolling the hem.Stitch-Witchery and Wonder-Under arebasically the same product. They are heatfusible bonding tapes. Stitch-Witcherycomes in a roll and is bond sensitive onboth sides. Wonder-Under comes in sheetswith a thin, paper backing on one side. Tojoin two pieces, simply place a stripbetween them and iron. Use Wonder-Under for hemming the sail if sewing it istoo difficult.Preparation and sewing: Wash sailclothseveral times to pre-shrink it. When dry,iron the cloth, but be careful not to scorch

it. Next, lightly draw the seams and hem(tabling) lines in pencil, then sew the seamsusing light tan cotton thread. A sewingmachine makes fast work of the project.Practice on scrap cloth. Balance the needlethread tension so it doesn't pucker thematerial. No reinforcement patches arerequired. Instead, simply stitch lines to rep-resent corner reinforcements, reef bands,etc. If sewing a double seam, be sure thetwo lines are parallel. Those who lack theBetsy Ross touch can substitute a singleseam. Figure 8-1 shows the mainsail layout. When done, iron the sails. Be careful not toburn them. Next, cut the sail shape usingLine A in Figure 8-1. Fold the hem, iron itflat, and sew as close to Line B as possible.Tuck the ends and hand-stitch the corners.The sail is now ready for stretching.Stretching the Sails: This step assures thesail's proper shape, since sewing may havealtered it. Using the original pattern, tracethe sail's outline onto a piece of paper. Placethe paper on a solid, but porous backing,such as a wood or cork board. Now washthe sail again and lay it over the outline.Stretch the wet material to the sail's outline,then secure with stick pins through its outeredges. When dry, the sail will have resumedits proper shape. Iron it one more time.

STAGE 8: GENERAL RIGGING INFORMATION

FIG. 8-1 MAKING A SET SAIL

MARK WITH PENCIL ANDSEW SEAMS OR OPTIONAL

SINGLE SEAM

PUNCH HOLE

TUCK-IN AND SEW BY HAND

“A” CUT LINE

HOLE, IF NOBOLT ROPE

IS USED

SEW THRU THE LINE, NOT

AROUND IT

SEAM LINESSAME AS

DIRECTIONS OFCLOTH WEAVE

SAIL MATERIALPENCIL IN ALL LINES,SEW SEAMS FIRST,

THEN EDGES CUT TO“A” LINE

TABLING “B”

“B”

“A” “C”

“C”FINAL

SHAPE

REEFPOINTSTOUCH ENDS

WITH GLUE

LIGHT PENCIL LINE TO LOCATE HOLES

FIG. 8-2 MAKING SAILSFOR FURLING

FIG. 8-3 STROPPING MODEL BLOCKS

CUT TOTHISSIZEFOR

FURLING TWIST

WITH HOOK

SLIP KNOT,THEN GLUESEIZE

GLUE &CUT-OFF

WIRE STROP

21

Boltropes: Although boltropes can be omit-ted, they add quite a bit to a model the size ofGlad Tidings . Figure 8-1 shows the process. Reef points: Install reef points along thereef bands as shown in Figure 8-1.Bonnet lacing: It just so happens that GladTidings has a bonnet on the jib. This isbasically an extension of the jib and issecured to the jib with a quick-release lac-ing. Plan Sheet 5 shows a detail of the lac-ing, but for the model a simple stitch canbe used to fake the lacing.Furled Sails: Don't furl sails made from sail-cloth and cut to the original's scale size. Thematerial is usually too heavy, resulting in abulky furled sail. To solve this problem, eitherproportionally reduce the size of a sail byone-third when using sailcloth (Figure 8-2, orbuy a lighter material such as Silkspan(model airplane covering tissue). This materi-al is available from Model Expo. Dependingon their size, even Silkspan sails may requirebeing reduced by one-third. Test the percent-age reduction to determine how much mate-rial is needed for a neat, tight furl.Even furled sails need some seams andhems, as these details are visible.

3. Blocks Sometimes, commercial blocks supplied inkits do not have fully rounded tops and

bottoms. To make them look better, roundthe ends with a needle file. Also, use a smalldrill bit or reamer and clean out andenlarge the sheave holes so lines reeve easier. Plan Sheet 4 shows the real boat details forblock stropping and seizing to eyebolts andother fixtures. Notice there are severaloptions you can use. Figure 8-3 illustratessome model stropping methods to simplifythe work.

4. LinesBeeswax: Protects lines against moistureand lays down fuzz. To soften beeswax,hold it to a light bulb. Run the line acrossthe beeswax, then through your fingers tosoften and smooth it. Do this several timesto coat the line thoroughly.Seizings: Seize lines with the supplied poly-ester thread, then touch with diluted whiteglue or thin super glue (Figure 8-4).

Belaying Lines: Locations for belayinglines are shown on the belaying plan onPlan Sheet 5. All lines belay to cleats on thismodel. Figure 8-5 shows how to belay linesand add a coil of rope.

5. Rigging ToolsSome homemade tools are useful for the rig-ging process (Figure 8-6). Similar shapes arecommercially available from Model Expo.

Note: As noted on the plans, the standing rig-ging is galvanized iron wire on the real boat,but for the kit black nylon line is supplied.The size is the same as the wire would be. Youcould substitute real wire by twisting yourown, or better yet, use commercial strandedstainless steel wire sold as control line wire formodel airplanes. This wire is nice, but diffi-cult to work as it is very stiff. Non-strandedwire is also available in small diameters.The standing rigging is shown on PlanSheet 5. Before starting, sort lines by size,coat with beeswax, and keep them handy.For seizings, use the polyester thread in thekit. It is prewaxed and doesn’t requirebeeswax, but double duty won't hurt. Keepwhite glue and super glue ready for dabbingon a seizing if necessary. Usually, sewingthrough a line followed by a half hitch pre-vents the seizing from unraveling.

1. TurnbucklesBefore starting the rig, make the four turn-buckles for the bobstays and bowspritshrouds. The body of the turnbuckles arebritannia castings. Drill a hole in each endof the fitting and use brass wire for the eyesand screws. Details are shown on PlanSheet 4 and Figure 9-1.

2. ShroudsNote: Before rigging, make sure all mast hoopsare placed on their masts.Chain plates: Make the chain plates from1/64" x 3/32" brass flat bar. Deadeyes are3/16" diameter. Make deadeye strops frombrass wire. Details are shown on Plan Sheet4 and Figure 9-2.

Chain plate installation: Locate the chainplates as shown on Plan Sheet 5. However,tie a piece of rigging around the mastheadwhere the shrouds fit and stretch it downwhere the chain plates will be located. Usethe line as a guide for aligning the chainplates at the proper angle.

Installing the shrouds: Install the forwardstarboard pair first, followed by the forwardport pair. The main shroud is single oneach side and eyespliced together around

the mast. To set up the shrouds, make atemporary brass wire fixture to space thedeadeyes as seizing progresses (Figure 9-3).The fixture should be longer than the finalspacing of deadeyes. Reeving the lanyardswill tighten the shrouds to their final prop-er spacing. Make a test shroud first to seehow much it stretches.

STAGE 9: INSTALLING STANDING RIGGING

FIG. 8-4 SEIZING METHODS

FIG. 9-1 TURNBUCKLE ASSEMBLY FIG. 9-2MAKINGCHAIN

PLATES &DEADEYESTROPS

FIG. 8-5 BELAYING LINES TO CLEATS

FIG. 8-6 HOMEMADE RIGGING TOOLS

CLOVEHITCH

OR1 1 2 1 2 3

GLUEWRAP

FAKE EYESPLICE

CASTING

BRASSWIRE

AROUNDDEADEYE

PIN(BOLT)

BRASSSTRAPCHAINPLATE

DRILLHOLES

FILE & FORM END

BRASSROD

DRILL HOLES IN ENDS

SEIZING

CONSTRICTOROR CLOVE

HITCH

WRAP TUCK& GLUE

CONSTRICTORKNOT

(WILL NOTLOOSEN)

STARTERKNOTS

1. HITCH

2. COIL

FLATTEN END &FILE SHAPE

PUSH PULL

BRASSROD

WOODHANDLE

MAKE SEVERALLENGTHS

FILE OUT HEAD OF A STEELOR PLASTIC CROCHET

NEEDLE TO FORM HOOK

1. HITCH

3. TWISTBIGHT

OF LINE

4. LOOPOVERCLEAT

2. HANGSEPARATE

COILOVERCLEAT

SIMPLIFIED METHOD

22

The bitter ends of the shrouds set up on theright side of the shroud looking inboard.There are three seizings. On the real boat,the seizings could be line or wire, or couldhave been a wire rope clamp. For the modeluse the polyester thread or the smallestblack nylon rigging cord. Seize the brasssheer pole above the top set of deadeyes atthe foremast.Figure 9-3 also shows the sequence for reev-ing lanyards. When looking outboard atany deadeye, always start with a knot in theupper left-hand deadeye hole. Consequent-ly, port deadeyes have the knot aft and star-board deadeyes have it forward. Keep aneye on the masts. Rigging the shrouds canpull them out of alignment.Note: The deadeye lanyards could be consid-ered running rigging. However, they weremost likely coated since they remained in posi-tion. On the model, use the black line for thelanyards. Actually, a darker line looks betteralong with the dark shrouds.

3. Spring StayThe spring stay fits between the fore andmain mast head shoulders. Eyesplice bothends as shown on the plans.

4. Jib Stay and Inner Bobstay The jib stay and inner bobstay are actuallyconnected together below the bowsprit.Bobstay stem plates: Make the bobstayplates from 1/64" x 3/32" brass flat bar.They are secured to the hull stem with pinsor nails. Details are shown in Detail 3-Bon Plan Sheet 3. Jib stay: Eyesplice the jib stay around themasthead shoulder on the foremast, thenpass the stay through the hole in thebowsprit between the two eye bands. Eye-splice the end and connect it to a turnbuck-le with a shackle. Inner bobstay: Eyesplice both ends ofthe inner bobstay. Connect the lower endto the bobstay plate on the stem with alink or shackle, and the upper end to theturnbuckle on the end of the jibstay witha shackle.

Figure 9-4 illustrates the above rig at theend of the bowsprit.5. Outer BobstayBobstay stem plates: The plates are similarto the inner bobstay plate as noted in theparagraph above.Outer bobstay: The bobstay is 27 links perinch chain provided in the kit. First, con-nect a turnbuckle with a shackle to the for-ward eye band on the bowsprit. Connectthe chain to the other end of the turnbuck-le with a shackle, and the lower end to thestem plate with a shackle (Figure 9-5).

6. Bowsprit ShroudsBowsprit shroud plates: Make the shroudplates from 1/64" x 3/32" brass flat bar andthe eye from brass wire. Pin or nail to thehull, port and starboard. Details are shown inDetail 3-C on Plan Sheet 3 and Figure 9-6.Bowsprit shrouds: Shackle a turnbuckle oneach side of the bowsprit to the inboard

bowsprit eye band. Eyesplice the shroudson both ends. Connect the outer ends witha shackle to the turnbuckles, and the innerend with a shackle to the shroud plates onthe hull. Shackles are not supplied. Shack-les can be made from small diameter wiresolder. Flatten the ends of a short piece ofsolder, shape round and drill a hole in theends. Bend around an appropriate roundto shape.

7. Bowsprit FootropesHull eyebolt: Fit an eyebolt in the hull,port and starboard, in the location shownon Plan Sheet 5.

Footropes: Eyesplice both ends of thefootropes. Connect the outer ends to thesides of the forward bowsprit eye band witha shackle and link. Connect the inner endsto the hull eyebolts with a shackle and link(Figure 9-7). The link provides more flexi-bility to the footropes.

A schooner, especially a relatively small boatlike Glad Tidings looks great with a full setof sails. If you are new to sailmaking, this isan ideal model to start with. Sails as well asall the running rigging are about as simpleas it gets. In any case, decide whether to rigwith or without sails, or with furled sails.The following discusses the choices andhow to rig them.

Use tan line for all running rigging. Therunning rigging is shown on Plan Sheet 5.Double scale views are included to provideclose-up details. Before starting, sort lines

by size, coat with beeswax, and keep themhandy. For seizings, use the polyester threadin the kit. It is prewaxed and doesn’t requirebeeswax, but double duty won't hurt. Keepwhite glue and super glue ready for dabbingon a seizing if necessary. Usually, sewingthrough a line followed by a half hitch pre-vents the seizing from unraveling.

1. ForesailYou should have the sail all sewn, ironed soit is wrinkle free, and have all reef pointsinstalled. Seize the corners of the sail andlace the sail to the boom and gaff (Figure

10-1). Rig as much of the sail off the modelas possible. Leave enough line for reeving,handling, and belaying. Don't be in a hurryto snip lines flush. They may need reten-sioning as rigging progresses.Install the gaff and boom on the mast. Usetemporary lines to hold them in place. Thegaff is fixed to the mast by a rope parrel inthe gaff jaws. The boom is fixed by thegooseneck. Fit the gooseneck pin on theboom into the hole in the mast band. Throat and peak halliards: Reeve thethroat and peak halliards (Figure 10-2). For

STAGE 10: INSTALLING RUNNING RIGGING

FIG. 9-3 SPACING THE DEADEYES

FIG. 9-5 OUTER BOBSTAY

FIG. 9-6 BOWSPRIT SHROUD PLATE FIG. 9-7 BOWSPRIT FOOTROPES

TIE AROUNDSHROUD

SHACKLE SHACKLE

TURNBUCKLE

OUTER BOBSTAY (CHAIN)

LANYARDLOOKING

OUTBOARDSHROUD

BRASSSTRIP

BRASSWIRE

PIN TO HULL

SHACKLE

EYESPLICE

FOOTROPE

SIMILARAT

HULL END

LINK

TWISTED WIRE JIGTO HOLD DEADEYES

AT CORRECTSPACING WHILE

INSTALLINGTHE SHROUD

REEVING THE LANYARDS

START KNOT HERE

SEIZINGS

INTOHULL

23

now, do not belay the lines; just temporari-ly tie them off. All lines will be tightenedwhen all are reeved. Mast hoops: Sew the mast hoops to the sailin the locations shown on Plan Sheet 5 andthe detail on Sheet 4. Boom topping lift: Rig the topping lift. Fitthe hook into the eyebolt at the aft end ofthe boom. Hook the upper block to theeyebolt in the mainmast (Figure 10-3).Again, just tie off the line at this time.Fore boom sheet: Rig the sheet. Fit a splitring made from brass wire on the upperblock and around the bail on the boomsheet fitting. The bottom block hooks tothe eyebolt in the deck. Note that the sheetbelays to the forward centerline cleat on themainmast but first goes under the thumbcleat below the full cleat (Figure 10-4).Completing the rig: Now that all lines arerigged, tighten all up and belay the lines tothe cleats as shown by the belaying plan onPlan Sheet 5. Belay the sheet first as thispositions the boom, then the topping lift.The boom is now secured. Finally, tightenthe peak and throat halliards. Make sureyou tension the two halliards together sothe gaff will not put any wrinkles in thesail. Refer back to Stage 8 for belaying linesand adding a rope coil. Rigging without a sail: The boom sheetand topping lift will be identical to the rigwith the sail. The mast hoops just sit in apile on the mast. The gaff should be low-ered as low as the pile of mast hoops permitand sit about parallel to the boom. Thislengthens the throat and peak halliards, somore line is required to complete the run tothe cleats. To keep the gaff from floppingsideways on the model, tie down the endsof the gaff to the boom.Option: A lot of model builders like toleave the gaff in the raised position eventhough no sail is fitted. If that's your thing,do so. However, this particular rig has novangs at the gaff end, so it would flop side-ways on the model in a raised position. Youcan fix this by gluing the gaff jaws to themast, or drill a hole through one side of thegaff jaw and pin it to the mast.Rigging with a furled sail: As noted earlierin Stage 8, you need to reduce the bulk ofthe material or use silkspan for a furled sail.

2. MainsailThe mainsail is rigged similar to the foresailwith the following differences:Clew outhaul tackle: When installing thesail, attach the traveler ring to the clew ofthe sail. Attach the outhaul line to the clew,then reeve the line through the hole orsheave in the boom end, then to the tackle.The tackle belays to the cleat on the portside of the boom (Figure 10-5).If no sail is used, leave the traveler ring lose

on the boom. Rig the outhaul tackle, exceptinstead of it attaching to the sail, knot it offat the hole in the boom.Boom jaws: The main boom has jawsrather than a gooseneck and sits on themast boom jaw rest. Fit the jaws with arope parrel around the mast.Boom topping lift: Simply a different runfrom the fore boom. The lift goes throughthe cheek block atop the mainmast.Boom sheet: The boom sheet takes off thebottom block and goes directly to either theport or starboard cleat in the cockpit. Also,the rig has another traveler ring at the deckaround the main sheet horse.

3. JibThe jib has a bonnet but no reef points.Details of the bonnet are discussed in Stage 8.Jib sheet and jib club: Seize the corners ofthe sail to the holes in the club, then lacethe club to the sail. The lower block of thesheet has a traveler ring around the jib sheet

horse. Similar to the fore sheet, the sheet ishooked under the thumb cleat on the mastbefore it belays to the double ended cleat. Halliard: Rig the halliard and tie it off tem-porarily.Hanks: Use the brass split rings for hanks,and secure the hanks to the sail around thejib stay in the locations shown on PlanSheet 5. Pre-punch all the holes for thehanks (Figure 10-6).Downhaul and tack: Secure the tack of thesail to the eye band on the bowsprit and

FIG. 10-1 SAIL LACING FIG. 10-2 RIGGING THROAT &PEAK HALLIARDS

FIG. 10-4 FORE BOOM SHEET

FIG. 10-3 FORE BOOM TOPPING LIFT

PEAK HALLIARD

TOGAFF

STOPCHOCKS

SHROUDTOGAFF

BLOCK

TOGAFF

BLOCK

THROATHALLIARD

EYEBOLT

MAST

RING

COLLAR

STOP CHOCKS(P & S)

SHEAVE ORJUST DRILL

HOLE IN BOOM

BOOM

TACKLESINGLE BLOCK

TO CLEATON PORTSIDE OF ROOM

SINGLE BLOCKWITH BECKET

TOBELAYCLEAT

ON MAST

LINK

HOOK

HOOK

EYEBOLT

FOREBOOM

BOOM

RING

BELAY

EYEBOLT

DECK

MOUSEDHOOK

SHEET BAND

TO BELAYCLEAT ON

MAST

TOBELAYCLEAT

ONMAST

FIG. 10-5 MAINSAIL CLEW OUTHAUL TACKLE

add the fairlead for the jib downhaul. Runthe downhaul through one or two hanks,then through the fairlead at the tack (Figure10-7).Topping lift: The topping lift for the jibclub also functions as the anchor tackle. Fitthe hook into the eyebolt on the club. Theupper block hooks to the eyebolt at the foremasthead (Figure 10-13).Completing the rig: Now that all lines arerigged, tighten all up and belay the lines tothe cleats as shown by the belaying plan onPlan Sheet 5. Refer back to Stage 8 forbelaying lines and adding a rope coil. Rigging without a sail: The more lines leftwithout sails the more detail you have onthe model. With the sail gone, connect thehalliard and the downhaul together and setthe lower halliard block down near thebowsprit (Figure 10-8).Take the lower hook of the topping lift andhook it to the thumb cleat on the forwardside of the mast. Or, since the topping lift isalso an anchor tackle, you could hook it atone of the anchors.The club and sheet most likely would beremoved along with the sail itself. However,

it is possible that the sheet is in place andthe club just lies on deck in back of thehorse. This would add detail, but may looktoo cluttered. Your option. Rigging with a furled sail: As noted earlierin Stage 8, you need to reduce the bulk ofthe material or use silkspan for a furled sail.The topping lift is important here. Keep ithooked to the jib club to keep the sail offthe deck. The outer end of the jib is furledon top of the bowsprit and held by the gas-kets (see paragraph 4 below).

When the model is rigged, recheck everyline. Be certain seizings are sound. Addanother dab of glue if they aren’t. Touch upshiny spots on standing rigging with blackpaint or liquid shoe polish. Use a tan stainor brown liquid shoe polish for running rig-ging, Check if any painted wooden parts

were fouled during the rigging process andmake repairs.

CONGRATULATIONS

Your Glad Tidings is finished! Take amoment to revel in your accomplishment.You’ve persevered when the going became

rough and your effort has produced results.

You’ve developed skills you never knew you

had, increased your vocabulary, and become

a time traveler. We hope you’ve enjoyed your

voyage and look forward to sailing with you

on your next shipmodeling project.

The American Fishing Schooners:1825-1935by Howard I. Chapelle. New York:W.W.Norton & Co. Inc., 1973

Great book on schooner developement.Excellent chapter with plans of Pinkyschooners. The appendix contains hundredsof Chapelle's sketches of schooner riggingand hull details.

Boatbuilding: A Complete Handbook of Wooden Boat Construction by Howard I. Chapelle. New York:W.W.Norton & Co. Inc., 1941

Excellent book on small boat construc-tion. Appropriate for the Pinky, as it waswritten in the time frame of Glad Tidings. American Small Sailing Craft:Their Design, Development, andConstructionby Howard I. Chapelle. New York:

W.W.Norton & Co. Inc., 1951Source book of small craft plans and his-

tory. Not a whole lot on the Pinky but givesan insight into the various small boat devel-opments and construction.The Ashley Book of Knots by Clifford Ashley. New York: Doubleday& Co., 1944.

The best book ever written on the thou-sands of knots used aboard old sailing shipsand boats. Outstanding illustrations.The following model building publicationsare especially useful for beginning shipmodel builders:How to Build First Rate ShipModels from Kits by Ben Lankford. Hollywood, FL:ModelShipways, Inc., 2000.

A book designed especially for the kitbuilder. Covers all facets of building modelsfrom kits, and features Model Shipways kits

as well as others. The Appendix has awealth of nautical terms defined, especiallyuseful for the beginner.

Planking the Built-Up Ship Model by Jim Roberts. Hollywood, FL: ModelShipways, Inc., 1987.

Topnotch publication on how to plankships from all periods. Designed to help thekit builder if the plans don’t show a plank-ing scheme.

Ship Modeler’s Shop Notes edited by Merritt Edson, Jr. and others.Nautical Research Guild, 1979.

Valuable collection of shop hints andarticles extracted from early issues of theNautical Research Journal. Many qualityillustrations, tables, and techniques. A sec-ond edition of the Notes is in preparationat time of this writing.

FINAL TOUCHES

BIBLIOGRAPHY

FIG. 10-6JIB HANKS

FIG. 10-7 JIB DOWNHAUL

FIG. 10-8 DOWNHAUL &HILLIARD WITHOUT SAIL

JIB STAY JIB STAY

TACK

SHACKLEIN EYEBAND

JIBDOWNHAUL

FAIRLEADTHIMBLE

BOWSPRIT

HOOK DOWNHAULTO HALLIARD

BLOCK

SHACKLE

JIBHALLIARD

DOWNHAUL

BOWSPRIT

PUNCHHOLE

IN SAIL

BRASSSPLITRING

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