GJ Cleverley

BESP O K E S H O E MA KERS

1 3 T H E R O Y A L A R C A D E O L D B O N D S T L O N D O N W I S 4 S L

G J C L E V E R L E Y & C O L T D

london

C O N T E N T S

04 H I S T O R Y O F G E O R G E C L E V E R L E Y

0 6 T H E A R T O F S H O E M A K I N G

1 2 B E S P O K E

2 6 A N T H O N Y C L E V E R L E Y

3 2 B E N C H M A D E

4 0 S L I P P E R S & A C C E S S O R I E S

4 4 1786 R U S S I A N L E A T H E R

4 6 A F T E R C A R E

4 8 O V E R S E A S C O N T A C T

5 0 L O N D O N S T O R E

P h o t o g r a p h y - J a m e s B e d f o r d

A r t D i r e c t i o n - A s h l e y R o b e r t s

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H I S T O RY O F G E O R G E C L E V E R L E YA L M O S T A C E N T U R Y O F S H O E M A K I N G

G E O R G E C L E V E R L E Y W A S B O R N O N

T H E 1 0 T H O F A U G U S T 1 8 9 8 I N T O A

S H O E M A K I N G F A M I L Y I N L O N D O N .

George moved to Colchester in Essex

wi th h is parents when he was aged

t w o a n d s p e n t h i s c h i l d h o o d s e l l i n g

bootlaces & polish. After f inishing his

apprent iceship at 15 , he was cal led

u p t o t h e A r m y f o r Wo r l d Wa r 1 a n d

stationed in London before joining an

army boot factory in Cala is , France.

After the war he joined Tuczec, a high

society London shoemaker on Clifford

Street, Mayfair. He remained there for

38 years. George left Tuczec in 1958 to

start up his own business. G.J Cleverley

of Cork Street, Mayfair, London.

O n C o r k S t r e e t h e f u r t h e r e d h i s

r e p u t a t i o n t o i n c l u d e s o m e o f t h e

m o s t i l l u s t r i o u s n a m e s i n s o c i e t y

a n d b e c a m e w e l l k n o w n f o r m a k i n g

t h e C l e v e r l e y s h a p e - a g r a c e f u l ,

chisel-toed shoe which became signa-

ture to h is extraordinary craf t .

George d ied in 1991 at near ly 93 years

of age and was st i l l work ing, v i r tual ly

unt i l he d ied.

Today, the company is sti l l a family run

business headed by George Glasgow,

who worked with Mr.Cleverley for over

20 years.

George Cleverley Team

5

G E O R G E C L E V E R L E Y & C O L T D .

T H E A R T O F S H O E M A K I N GS P E C I A L T Y I N H O U S E S H O E M A K I N G

A P A I R O F G E O R G E C L E V E R L E Y ’ S

B E S P O K E S H O E S A R E A W O R K O F

AR T, I N D I V I D U A L T O T H E I R O W N E R .

They are created by the close teamwork

of specia l i zed craf tsmen, a l l o f whom

have served long apprent iceships to

acquire their part icu lar sk i l ls .

From the moment you enter Cleverleys

wood panel led showroom you wi l l be

looked after by a highly skil led member

of staff who will discuss every aspect of

your requirements and desires with you

- ensuring you get the exact shoe you

want in terms of look, shape, material

and style whilst taking into account any

other specific needs you may have.

Then while bearing this in mind, your

feet wil l be measured with an outl ine

and various girth measurements will be

taken. These are used to create a three

dimensional map used to explore the

best balance and l ines for your feet.

Following this consultation a pair of

bespoke wooden lasts wil l be carved

especially for you encompassing every

aspect of your foot, it’s movement and

your chosen style.

FIRST VISITG

7


T H E I N D I V I D U A L L A S T I S U S E D T O

C O N S T R U C T T H E F I R S T P A I R O F

s h o e s a n d w i l l t h e n b e s t o r e d i n

C lever ley ’s last room to ensure t h a t

s u b - s e q u e n t p a i r s c a n b e made to

the same high standards of closeness,

style and comfort for future orders .

Us ing these lasts a paper pat tern is

developed in the style of the specific

shoe required: derby, oxford, casual,

e tc and la id on the last to check the

sty l ing against your foot shape.

Once the design is ready the chosen

h ide is prepared and the p ieces are

cut making sure the d i rect ion of the

foot’s movement matches the original

movement of the animal. This ensures

a h a r m o n i o u s r e l a t i o n s h i p b e t w e e n

the foot and shoe.

T h e c l i c k e r t a k e s o n t h e t a s k o f

c h o o s i n g t h e p e r f e c t h i d e t o c u t ,

w h i c h i s u s e d i n t h e u p p e r p a r t o f

t h e s h o e . Each c l i c k e r h a s v a s t

e x p e r i e n c e w i t h t h i s p a r t o f t h e

shoemaking process and can ensure

the sty le and durabi l i ty of the shoe.

MAKING THE SHOEG

W W W. G J C L E V E R L E Y. C O . U K

T h e c l o s e r t a k e s o n t h e t a s k o f s e w i n g ,

l ining and shaping the hides around the last

to ensure the cleverley style is maintained.

The c loser wi l l focus on the upper part of

the shoe to guarantee that the strength and

durabi l i ty of the shoe is mainta ined to last

many years .

9


A T T H I S S T A G E W E W I L L A S K T O

S E E Y O U F O R A F I T T I N G A N D Y O U

W I L L S E E T H E S H O E F O R T H E F I R S T

T I M E A T I T S M I D - W A Y P O I N T .

W h i l e f i t t i n g t h e s h o e a t t h i s t i m e ,

o u r c r a f t s m a n w i l l c h e c k t h e f i t

a n d s t y l e t o m e e t w i t h t h e c l i e n t s

e x p e c t a t i o n s .

O n c e y o u a p p r o v e t h e s h o e s , t h e y

w i l l b e r e p l a c e d o n t h e l a s t s w h e r e

a n o a k b a r k t a n n e d s o l e i s s t i t c h e d

o n b y h a n d . T h e h e e l s a r e t h e n

b u i l t u p a n d t h e e d g e s o f t h e s e a r e

s t a i n e d , f i n i s h e d a n d s e a l e d f o r

w a t e r p r o o f i n g . F i n a l l y , t h e l a s t s

a r e r e m o v e d , t h e r e m a i n i n g h e e l -

bui ld ing nai ls are c l ipped and socks

( l i n i n g i n t h e h e e l s ) a r e a d d e d .

O n c e t h e s h o e h a s r e a c h e d t h i s

p o i n t , a p r o f e s s i o n a l p o l i s h e r w i l l

a d d t h e f i n a l t o u c h e s . T h e p o l i s h e r

w i l l p a y p a r t i c u l a r a t t e n t i o n t o t h e

h i d e s a n d a p p l y t h e c o r r e c t t y p e o f

p o l i s h w h i c h w i l l p r o t e c t a n d b r i n g

t h e c o l o u r o u t o f y o u r n e w G e o r g e

C l e v e r l e y s h o e s .

FINISHING THE SHOEG


A f t e r y o u r f i r s t p a i r o f s h o e s h a v e

b e e n m a d e a n d t h e c o r r e c t f i t a n d

l o o k o f s h o e s i s a c h i e v e d , t h e p a i r

o f l a s t s w i l l r e m a i n i n t h e s t o r e . B y

k e e p i n g t h e l a s t s a t c l e v e r l e y ’s y o u

c a n r e q u e s t y o u r n e x t p a i r o f s h o e s

a t a n y t i m e , f r o m a n y w h e r e i n t h e

w o r l d a n d b e c o n f i d e n t t h a t i n t h r e e

m o n t h s a n e w p a i r w i l l b e s e n t

w h i c h w i l l a g a i n b e p e r f e c t f o r y o u .

11


B E S P O K E L A C EA S I N D I V I D U A L A S Y O U A R E

O X F O R D S H I R E · B r o w n c r o c o d i l e

WA R W I C K S H I R E · Ta n c a l f

C H E S H I R E · D a r k b r o w n c a l f

D E V O N · C r o c o d i l e & to b a c c o b u c k s k i n

C O R N WA L L · B r o w n c a l f

Y O R K S H I R E · B r o w n c a l f

13


A S B O U R N E · D a r k b r o w n c a l f

S O M E R S E T · B r a c ke n c a l f & r u s s i a n h i d e

B E D F O R D S H I R E · B l a c k c a l f

K E N T · B l a c k p a te n t w / s i l k l a c i n g

B U C K I N G H A M S H I R E · R u s t i c b r o w n c a l f

E S S E X · E s p re s s o b r o w n c a l f


W I L T S H I R E · D a r k b r o w n b u c k s k i n

F I N C H L E Y · B l a c k c a l f

D o n a t o · D a r k b r o w n c a l f

B A R N E S · B l a c k c a l f

W O L F E · T a n c a l f & w h i t e b u c k s k i n

H A M P S H I R E · B l a c k c a l f

15


B E S P O K E M O N K SA S I N D I V I D U A L A S Y O U A R E

W E L L I N G T O N · O x b l o o d c r o c o d i l e

B E R K S H I R E · B r o w n b u c k s k i n

A S H F O R D · B r o w n c a l f

H E R T F O R D S H I R E · B l a c k c a l f

C H E S T E R F I E L D · D a r k b r o w n c a l f

T H O R N E · Ta n c r o c o d i l e

17


B E S P O K E C A S U A L SA S I N D I V I D U A L A S Y O U A R E

B E X L E Y · A n t i q u e ta n c a l f

C H E L S E A · C h e s t n u t c a l f

PA R L I A M E N T · Black cal f & black crocodi le

K E N S I N G T O N · B l a c k c a l f

W E S T M I N S T E R · L o n g c h a mp c a l f

F U L H A M · C h e s t n u t c a l f

19


A L B E R T · B l a c k c r o c o d i l e

C H A R L B U R Y · B r o w n p e b b l e g r a i n c a l f

H A R R O W · D a r k b r o w n s u e d e

B U R F O R D · B r o w n p i g s k i n

L E Y T O N · B l a c k c a l f & b l a c k b u c k s k i n

G L O U C E S T E R S H I R E · O x b l o o d c a l f


C H E Y N E · D a r k b r o w n c a l f

A L T O N · Midnight b lue ca l f & whi te ca l f

C R O S B Y · Oxblood cal f

K E M P T O N · 17 8 6 R u s s i a n h i d e

L A N C A S H I R E · D a r k b r o w n l i z a r d

M A D E T O O R D E R G O L F S H O E S AVA I L A B L E

21


N E W P O R T · B l a c k c a l f

L O N D O N · M i d n i g h t b l u e c r o c o d i l e

M C N A L LY · Ta n c a l f

K E N D A L · B r o w n c a l f

P O O L E · B r o w n c a l f

Q U I N N · B l a c k c a l f


H A R L O W · Ta n c a l f

23


C R E A T I V E B E S P O K E T H E C H O I C E I S C O M P L E T E L Y Y O U R S

P R I C E · B r o w n c a l f & to b a c c o b u c k s k i n

S U L L I VA N · B l a c k c r o c o d i l e

B O L T O N · C h e s t n u t c a l f & ta n c r o c o d i l e

WA T T S · Black crocodi le & blue buckskin

C A S E Y · Chestnut cal f & brown l izard

M A R S H A L L · B l a c k c a l f & b l a c k c r o c o d i l e

B R I G G · B r o w n p e b b l e g r a i n c a l f

C A P O N E · B l a c k c a l f & w h i te c a l f25


A N T H O N Y C L E V E R L E Y S E M I B E S P O K E S H O E S

F O R T E · B l a c k c a l f

D E R E D E · D a r k b r o w n b u c k s k i n

FA I R B A N K S · B l a c k c a l f

R O T H S C H I L D · B r o w n p e b b l e g r a i n c a l f

D E R E D E · B l a c k c a l f

L I T C H F I E L D · B r o w n c a l f

27


PA R K · D a r k g re e n c a l f

B O D I E · B l a c k c a l f

F O R T E · B u r g u n d y c a l f

D E G I V E N C H Y · B l a c k c a l f

B I R L E Y · B r a c ke n c a l f

H A G U E · b l a c k c a l f


C H U R C H I L L · B l a c k c a l fL i m i t e d E d i t i o n

29


C H O W · B u r g u n d y c a l fA l s o a v a i l a b l e i n b l a c k c a l f


R O T H S C H I L D · B l a c k c a l f

P H I L I P · B u r g u n d y c a l fS e m i - b e s p o k e

P H I L I P · B l a c k c a l fS e m i - b e s p o k e

T AV I S T O C K · M i d n i g h t b l u e c a l f

P E T E R · B l a c k C a l fS e m i - b e s p o k e

C H R I S T I A N · T a n b u r n i s h e d c a l f S e m i - b e s p o k e

31


B E N C H M A D ER E A D Y T O W E A R S H O E S

R E U B E N · B l a c k c a l f

A R C H I E · Ta n s c o tc h c o u n t r y g r a i n D a i n i te s t u d d e d s o l e

C H A R L E S · B l a c k c a l f

R E U B E N · C h e s t n u t a n t i q u e c a l f

A R C H I E · B l a c k s c o tc h c o u n t r y g r a i nD a i n i te s t u d d e d s o l e

C H A R L E S · Ta n b u r n i s h e d c a l f

33


D AV I D · Wa l n u t c a l f & m i l k s u e d e

A D A M · C h e s t n u t b u r n i s h e d c a l fA l s o a v a i l a b l e i n b l a c k c a l f

J A M E S · B l a c k c a l f

O L I V E R · D a r k b r o w n s u e d e

H E N R Y · Dark brown countr y grain D a i n i te s t u d d e d s o l e

A L A N · B l a c k c a l f


G E O R G E · Ta n b u r n i s h e d c a l f ( u n l i n e d )

G E O R G E · D a r k b r o w n b u r n i s h e d c a l f ( u n l i n e d )

B R A D L E Y · B u r g u n d y a n t i q u e c a l f

G E O R G E · B l a c k c a l f ( u n l i n e d )

B R A D L E Y · B l a c k c a l f

N A T H A N · D a r k b r o w n s u e d e

35


R E U B E N · E s p re s s o s u e d e

M A T T H E W · Ta n c a l f

B R YA N · D a r k o a k a n t i q u e c a l fD o u b l e l e a t h e r s o l e

O L I V E R · Ta n b u r n i s h e d c a l f Double leat her sole

M A T T H E W · B l a c k c a l f

L E W I S · D a r k b r o w n s u e d e


D A N I E L · D a r k b r o w n s u e d e

J A C K · B u r g u n d y c a l f

H A R O L D · B l a c k c a l f

O W E N · B r a c ke n c a l f

J A C K · B l a c k c a l f

E L L I O T · M a h o g a n y b u r n i s h e d c a l f D a i n i t e s t u d d e d s o l e w / s t o r m w e l t

37


S E A N · P o l o b r o w n c a l f

A I D A N · D a r k b u r g u n d y a n t i q u e c a l f

G A B R I E L · To b a c c o s u e d e

G E O R G E · D a r k b r o w n s u e d e

A I D A N · D a r k m a h o ga n y c a l f

G A B R I E L · B l a c k c a l f


AIDAN & GEORGE · A s s o r te d c a l f l e a t h e r s

39


S L I P P E R S & A C C E S S O R I E SR E L A X I N C O M F O R T A N D L U X U R Y

A L B E R T · B l a c k v e l v e t

G O L D E N S K U L L · G o l d w i re & s i l k

G L O D E N S E A L · G o l d W i re

A L B E R T · W i n e v e l v e t

SKULL & CROSSBONES · Silver wire & silk

* Personal i zed monogramming i s ava i lab le in a var ie ty o f go ld and s i lve r w i r ing , a long wi th d i f f e r en t c o l o u r e d s i l k s

41


L a r g e r s e l e c t i o n o f a c c e s s o r i e s i s

avaialbe at www.gjcleverley.co .uk

A L B E R T M I D N I G H T · B l u e c a s h m e re

S E M I - B E S P O K E · l a s te d s h o e t re e

B E N C H M A D E · a d j u s ta b l e s h o e t re e

PA T E N T · B o w l e a t h e r p u mp

ANTHONY CLEVERLEY · lasted shoe t ree


W A L L E T S · Av a i l a b l e i n a v a r i e t y of colours , l e a t h e r s & e x o t i c s k i n s

J O E L S O N · T w e e d a n d l e a t h e r h o l d a l l C A L F S H O E C L E A N I N G K I T · A v a i l a b l e i n s e v e r a l d i f f e r e n t c o l o u r s & m a t e r i a l s

C R E D I T C A R D H O L D E R S · H a n d m a d e i n s e v e r a l d i f f e r e n t e x o t i c s k i n s

43


1 7 8 6 R U S S I A N L E AT H E RR E T R I E V E D A F T E R 2 0 0 Y E A R S

On December 10 th 1786 a s to r m fo rced the Met ta Cathar ina

to seek she l te r in P lymouth Sound. She had been bound fo r

the Medi te r ranean wi th a cargo o f hemp and lea ther f r om

the Russ ian Po r t o f S t . Pe te r sburg . The Cather ina b roke f r ee

and was b lown towards Mount Edgecumbe be fo re s ink ing .

The c rew were ab le to ge t ashore bu t the sh ip and i t s cargo

were lo s t - un t i l a lmos t 200 years la te r d ive r s f ound a sh ip ’ s

be l l on the sea f l oo r . Fu r the r inves t iga t ion revea led bundles

o f h ides l i t t e r ing the sea bed . They were remarkably we l l

p rese rved a f te r two centur ies o f immers ion in b lack mud.

S ince those h ides were r e t r i eved , many hundreds have been

brought to the su r face . They have been tanned the t radi t ional

Russ ian way , which invo lves soak ing in p i t s o f w i l l ow bark

and cur ry ing wi th b i rch o i l . The p rocess g ives them a ve ry

d i s t inc t a roma. Mos t o f the h ides have been c ross ha tched

in the g ra in embossed by hand. The famous ‘Russ ia ’ l ea ther

i s r enowned fo r i t ’ s ab i l i ty to r es i s t wate r and repe l insec t s .

K E M P T O N · R u s s i a n l e a t h e r b e s p o ke b o o t i e

WA L L A C E · R u s s i a n l e a t h e r b e l t

G L A D S T O N E · R u s s i a n l e a t h e r b a g

S U L L I VA N · R u s s i a n l e a t h e r w a s h b a g

C A P P E L L O · R u s s i a n l e t h e r a t t a c h é c a s e

BREAST & HIP WALLET S · R u s s i a n l e a t h e r w a l l e t s

45


A F T E R C A R EC L E V E R L E Y A F T E R C A R E S E R V I C E

G . J . C l e v e r l e y p r i d e s i t s e l f o n a f u l l

a f t e r c a r e s e r v i c e , w h i c h i n v o l v e s a n y

r e p a i r w o r k t h a t t h e s h o e r e q u i r e s

d u r i n g i t ’ s l i f e t i m e . T h e s e r e p a i r s

w i l l b e c a r r i e d o u t b y t h e s a m e m a s t e r

c r a f t s m a n w h o m a d e y o u r s h o e s .

To r e s o l e t h e s h o e s t h e o r i g i n a l s o l e i s

s t i p p e d o f f b e f o r e a n e w o n e i s s e w n

o n . I n r e - h e e l i n g o n l y t h e t o p p i e c e o f

h e e l i s r e p l a c e d , i n a l l c a s e s t h e s h o e s

a r e p o l i s h e d b e f o r e b e i n g r e t u r n e d t o

y o u r c a r e .

A F T E R C A R EWA T S O N · R u s s i a n l e a t h e r s h o e k i t

47


O V E R S E A S C O N T A C TC L E V E R L E Y T R A V E L S T O Y O U

G . J . C l e v e r l e y t r a v e l s d u r i n g b o t h t h e

spring & fall to Tokyo, Singapore, Seoul,

Par is , Geneva and the Uni ted States of

A m e r i c a . I f y o u w o u l d l i k e t o e n q u i r e

a b o u t a v i s i t p l e a s e f i l l i n o u r e n q u i r y

f o r m o n o u r w e b s i t e .

w w w. g j c l e v e r l e y . c o . u k

O u r U S A r e p r e s e n t a t i v e i s a v a i l a b l e f o r

e n q u i r i e s r e g a r d i n g t h e G . J C l e v e r l e y

r a n g e .

G e o r g e G l a s g o w J r. D i r e c t o r

G . J C l e v e r l e y & C o . L t d .

B e v e r l y H i l l s , C a l i f o r n i a

Te l : + 1 3 1 0 2 8 9 0 0 0 8

E m a i l : g e o r g e @ g j c l e v e r l e y . c o . u k

E n q u i r i e s : enquir ies@gjc lever ley.co.ukBespoke gal lery by appoinment only.

Te l : + 1 3 1 0 2 4 8 2 3 9 9

E m a i l : g e o r g e @ g j c l e v e r l e y . c o . u k

OVERSEAS VISITS USA REPRESENTATIVE

BEVERLY HILLS

49


L O N D O N S T O R EL O C A T I O N & H O U R S

G.J. Cleverley’s London store is located

i n t h e h e a r t o f L o n d o n ’s W e n t E n d .

G . J . C l e v e r l e y & C o . L t d .

1 3 T h e R o y a l A r c a d e ,

2 8 O l d B o n d S t e e t , L o n d o n

W 1 S 4 S L

Te l : + 4 4 ( 0 ) 2 0 7 4 9 3 0 4 4 3 / 1 0 5 8

F a x : + 4 4 ( 0 ) 2 0 7 4 9 3 4 4 9 1

E m a i l : e n q u i r i e s @ g j c l e v e r l e y. c o . u k

M o n d a y t o F r i d a y - 9 A M t o 6 P M

S a t u r d a y - 1 0 A M t o 5 P M

S u n d a y - C l o s e d

L O N D O N S T O R E

51


N O T E S


1 3 T H E R O Y A L A R C A D E O L D B O N D S T L O N D O N W I S 4 S L

W W W . G J C L E V E R L E Y . C O . U K

C J C L E V E R L E Y & C O L T D

Documents

GJ Cleverley