Ghosts and Gold Dust

7/27/2019 Ghosts and Gold Dust

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40 Walking New Zealand, issue no 188 - 2013 www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

Above: The information sign atArrowtown. Photo Frank Goldingham

The three hour walk to Macetown, an

abandoned ghost town in the mountains, was

on our bucket list. One pale blue autumnmorning my husband, Alistair, and I left

Arrowtown armed with the Department of

Conservation (DoC) booklet Macetown and

Arrow Gorge. Dont leave without it - the rich

and irreplaceable history of the Arrow River

area is fascinating.

It all began in 1862 when William Foxs gold

strike in the Arrow gorge initiated a rush to

the district, and Foxs, now known as

Arrowtown, was founded. Though Fox was

officially credited with discovering gold in the

Ar row, loca l farmhand Maor i Jack was

reputedly the first to pan colour in the river.

Initially, to avoid multiple river crossings

and wet feet, we left the road to follow the

Arrow irr igation pipe. The track wended

through a small beech forest to emerge above

the river. Below us a guide instructed

enthusiastic tourists in the art of gold panning.

Bet hes discreetly flicking gold dust into those

pans, said Alistair.

It was a full days struggle for miners, their

families and horses, to reach Macetown via the

Big Hill pack track which veers away from the

river. The perilous route was blocked by deep

snow drifts for months in winter. In 1884 the

long-awaited new road was opened and the

journey by horse and buggy was reduced to

less than two hours.

The road followed the river and climbedhigh above the gorge for some distance. We

saw the residue of innumerable dreams and

disappointments in piles of stone tailings.

Historical sites like Opium Bobs hut were

marked with yellow posts.

At the end of the gorge we found the

remains of the old Mt Soho homestead which

was burnt down in 1943. Mt. Soho station is

now part of the portfolio of properties owned

by Shania Twains ex husband, musician Mutt

Lange.

Next stop Macetown, known originally as

By Josie Dale

We could see the remains of his simple hut perched

precariously on a small knob high above the Arrow

River. Opium Bob was a miner named for the illicit

drug he funded with hard earned gold. Miraculously his addiction

didnt cause a fatal fall to the rocks below.

Twelve Mile. It was built on a narrow river

terrace surrounded by typical Central Otago

rock and tussock covered hills. Mt. Advance

and the Macandrew range rise steeply to the

north and Mt. Soho to the east. The site

became a historic reserve and part of the

Otago Goldfields Park in 1979.

The town was probably named for well-

known Otago cricketers, the Mace brothers.

Amongst the first to mine the Twelve Mile,

they later built a hotel and large store and

became hugely influential in the small

community.Left: Sadly, even in this remote place,vandalism is alive and well. Photo Josie Dale

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40 Walking New Zealand, issue no 188 - 2013


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Walking New Zealand, issue no 188 - 2013 41www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

We are looking for readers favourite walks. Many of us goout regularly walking on a route which we class as our favourite,for a number of reasons.

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Above: Exploration of the Rich Burn and old mining relics beyond Macetown would have to wait. Photo Josie Dale

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42 Walking New Zealand, issue no 188 - 2013 www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

Above left: Joseph Needhams lonelyrestored cottage. Photo Josie Dale

Middle left: Exotic trees like poplar andsycamore were planted by the earlysettlers. Photo Josie Dale

Below left: Walking the Macetown road.Photo Josie Dale.

Below right: Two hikers exit from walkingfrom Macetown to Arrowtown. Photo FrankGoldingham

We could see little evidence of the old town

amongst groves of ma ture poplar and

sycamore. Twisted apple trees bore only small

misshapen fruit, but according to locals,

daffodil and hyacinth bulbs provide riotous

springtime colour in long abandoned gardens.

On a sheltered terrace to the north east of

the road, Joseph Needhams lonely restored

cottage watches over the river. He was the

schoolmaster from 1879 to 1889, when he

succumbed to gold fever. I wondered which

occupation proved most profitable. The eerie

atmosphere inside his cottage was accentuated

by a strong wood smoke smell.

Further along the road we found a series

of information panels describing the gold

mining town, home to up to 200 people from

1863 to the early 1900s. The nearby Smithsbake house, with its rusting iron roof, was the

only other restored building.

The early settlers endured unimaginable

harsh living conditions: searing treeless

summers and long severe winters. Local

matagouri scrub and spear grass was used to

fuel fires. Wood and coal was packed in and

rationed during severe winters.

At the north end of town, the infamous

Twelve Apostles built their huts on a terrace.

They mined intermittent ly to fund the ir

drinking binges. In 1868 the twelve became

eleven when one unfortunate fell over theterrace and perished from the effects of liquor

Ghosts andNew Zealand Walks

42 Walking New Zealand, issue no 188 - 2013


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Walking New Zealand, issue no 188 - 2013 43www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

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and exposure.

By the early 1900s most miners had left,

and in 1916 only eleven people remained.

During the 1930s Depression the

Government subsidised alluvial mining, and

Macetown was temporarily revitalised. The

transitory residents endured harsh conditions

for little reward, living in tents or abandoned

huts.

Sadly, even in this remote place, vandalism

is alive and well. Both restored cottages have

been damaged several times, and illegal 4WD

vehicle and trail bike activity has forced DoC

to fence off parts of the reserve.

Exploration of the Rich Burn and old

mining relics beyond Macetown would have

to wait. By the time wed completed the

downhill stretch back to Arrowtown, wedwalked more than 32kms.

Most people drive or cycle into Macetown,

but reasonably fit walkers will be well

rewarded. The refreshing solitude of the high

country has a gentle knack of reinforcing ones

real insignificance in a frenetic world.

A hot shower, followed by a glass or two

of Central Otago pinot noir swiftly assuaged

our aching muscles.

Above: The track follows the Arrow Irrigation Scheme pipeline for a while before climbingabove the river. Photo Frank Goldingham

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Ghosts and Gold Dust