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Deus Ex Vaporis

GOD OF STEAM

Home Why I do this Introduction to Vaping

When I initially set out to write this post, I had intended on building a basic coil on an IGO-L, but figured thatwhile I was at it, I’d rebuild a ProTank atomizer or two with cotton wicks for my On The Go Kit. While doing that,

I was on the phone with a friend, and we got to talking about the number of tanks that use a ProTank atomizer.

I figured I’d be doing all of the people using those a disservice if I didn’t make a post that covers how to rebuild

one. As a bonus, this particular build is both fairly easy (though as depicted does require some special tools,

which you should have anyway), and produces one of the best Vapes that I’ve ever had. So, let’s build!

Supplies (Click to enlarge)

I’m using 30g Kanthal A1 (because I want a coil that is between 1.7 and 2.4 ohms), CVS sterile rolled cotton, an

original ProTank, an 18g blunt tip syringe, and a generic ohm meter (if you don’t have one of these, I highly

recommend picking one up, they are rather inexpensive, like $20, and very convenient). Not shown is a butane

torch (I don’t know why I left that out of the photo).

Disassembled atomizer (Click to enlarge)

Pull the atomizer apart (pop the chimney off, and then remove the positive pin, and everything should just pull

apart), and discard the old coil/wicks. Rinse and clean the parts that you are keeping in preparation for the new

build (I usually just wipe them down real good).

Nothing terribly over complicated here. First torch the kanthal until it glows to both clean it, and to remove some

of the springiness to make wrapping easier. I start with a 6-8″ piece of wire. You can always cut it shorter, it’s

real hard to get it longer once cut. I leave 1.5-2″ legs at this stage (better too long than too short), and just

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wrap around the 18g blunt tip needle between 8 and 12 times depending on the resistance I want to end up

with.

Click to enlarge

You can see here that I’ve done a 9/8 wrap. This should get me between 1.7 and 1.8ohms on the final coil. Next

you want t o compress the coil at one end and hold it there for a few seconds. This makes it much easier to get

it compressed in the pliers later.

Click to enlarge

Now we need to torch the coil to get it to retain its shape. Slide it off of the needle, and carefully grip it in some

pliers. I hold the hottest part of the torch flame on the coil for a solid ten seconds once I get it in the pliers

straight:

Click to enlarge

Here is where this pays off, put the c oil back onto the needle, and mount it into the atomizer base, as shown

below:

Click to enlarge

This makes mounting coils on these atomizers a c inch. The needle is thin enough that it places the c oil at the

bottom of the channel in the sides of the atomizer base. This is the perfect position. Get the coil centered and

put the insulator ring and positive pin back in place (remember that one leg of the coil goes inside the insulator

ring, and the other goes between the insulator ring and the atomizer base).

Click to enlarge

As you can see from the image above, I don’t push the positive pin all the way in. I leave it sticking out enough

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that it can be seated correctly once the atomizer is installed in the tank base. At this point I will twist off the

excess coil leg lengths, so that the they are flush with the base. You can clip them off, but I find that a little

spin and wiggle will break them off more cleanly. Make sure the coil is centered in the split, and not touching the

sides of the atomizer base, and remove the needle.

Centered coil (Click to enlarge)

Let’s test it out real quick:

Perfect!

Now we need wick! Here is how much cotton I will need (this is actually a bit more than I’ll need):

Click to enlarge

You can see that it doesn’t t ake much at all. I’ll tell you now, you should go wash your hands with a non scented

soap. I use sterile cot ton and I can taste the difference in my wicks when I do wash my hands at this point and

when I don’t. Once you are ready, tear about half of that cotton off lengthwise, and roll it into a wick shape that

will fit inside the coil you mounted. You don’t need terribly much cotton here.

Click to enlarge

Again you can see that it doesn’t take much. Once you have the wick twisted, you just slide it into the coil. I

find it helpful to clip off the very tip of the wick, and spin it as you insert it, so that it slides in easier. Once

mounted, clip both sides off flush with the outside edge of the atomizer base like so:

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First wick trimmed

I then use the rest of the cotton as a “flavor” wick. This does a couple of things; it keeps the coil wetter, it

prevents hot juice popping into your mouth, and creates a bet ter seal in the tank. I make the wick tails long on

purpose, like so:

Second wick ad ded

Now we need to prime the wicks. Cotton’s one drawback is that it burns rather easily. make sure you get it wet,

and keep it wet. Burned cotton is nasty.

Prime the wicks

Reassemble the atomizer, and tuck the wick tails into the atomizer base.

Click to enlarge

Make sure that your top wick is not too dense, as you want juice to easily flow through it, but it should provide

some barrier to juice just pouring into the atomizer. Let’s test it one more time and fill her up!

No changes is a good thing!

Now we can fill and prime the atomizer. Once the tank is full you need to either let it sit for about five minutes,

or give it a few long draws to get all the air out of the wicks and ensure they are saturated with juice.

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Let the air out (Click to enlarge)

That’s it, this should now be ready to vape.

Delicious vapor!

I personally think that this is the apex build for ProTank atomizers. It is flavorful, and easy enough to build.

Posted in Getting Started , How To

Tagged coil , cotton, evod , kanger , micro coil , protank , rebuild 

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