Getting on with growing in containers - Thrive...Recycled ideas include: old butlers sinks, old tin baths, chimney pots, buckets, watering cans, old boots, basins, kettles and pans

Getting on with growing incontainersA guide for people who have sight loss

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Welcome to this practical and inspirational guide to growing incontainers, which has been produced by Thrive and RNIB withsupport from the Big Lottery Fund. The guide is written for peoplewho have sight loss – whether you are new to gardening, or aremore experienced.

The methods described have been tried-and-tested by people whohave sight loss and, in many of the sections, you’ll find top tips frommembers of the National Blind Gardeners’ Club.

Why use containers?

Growing in containers can provide an exciting, flexible andmanageable way of growing an extensive range of plants whateverthe size of your gardening space. You can position them in sun orshade; use them at different heights to make the most of the space,or adjust them to your own working level. Container growing makesit easy to introduce seasonal plantings, or to create a design theme.

Your containers can also make growing much more accessible if youhave sight loss, as the plants or vegetable crops are easy to find,weed and reach. No heavy digging or weeding is required.Containers are also ideal for creating different soil conditionsaccording to the needs of your plants.

So whether you fancy a few herbs growing on your windowsill, or aprofusion of flowering plants and vegetables, fruit, shrubs, or trees,you can make it happen using containers.

In the section on getting started, we cover choosing a container andthe many types and materials available, from pots to kit-form raised

Introduction

beds. We take you through the stages of choosing your growingmedium, arranging plants and planting up. Vital maintenance –watering, feeding, plant support, potting-on, protection and pestsand diseases are also covered here.

Then we move on to some ideas for what to plant. The ornamentalcontainer planting chapters are bursting with ideas for the seasons,colour schemes, design themes and more. Step-by-step plantingrecipes for different containers are interspersed with plenty of tips.

The chapter on growing vegetables in containers includessuggestions for selecting suitable varieties, and how many plants togrow for optimum results.

Chapters on growing fruit in containers, herbs, or how to grow treesand shrubs in this way, are rounded off with some creative displayideas for houseplants.

See the appendices for a year planner, a useful glossary of terms,equipment and suppliers, contacts and further support from Thrive.

For any further, in-depth information on any aspect of gardening,consult the Thrive/RNIB books Getting on with Gardening andGetting on with growing food, or visit:www.carryongardening.org.uk

With special thanks to all the gardeners who have sight loss – andothers – who have shared their container gardening tips with us,including contributors to Come Gardening, the National BlindGardeners’ Club magazine.

We hope that the ideas will inspire you to have a go at growing incontainers in all shapes and sizes – be it flowers, vegetables or fruit.

We hope you enjoy your container gardening!

Introduction

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Getting started 6

Top tips to make growing in containers easier 7

Choosing a container 9

Planting your container 17

Maintaining your container 23

Planting ideas 31

Ornamental container planting by season 32

Ornamental container planting by colour and scent 40

Ornamental containers design ideas 45

Trees and shrubs in containers 49

Herbs in containers 51

Vegetables in containers 55

Fruit in containers 69

Houseplants in containers 78

Contents

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Appendices 82

1: A year in container gardening 83

2: Glossary 86

3: Tools and equipment 92

4: Support from Thrive 103

5: Contacts for more information 105

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Contents

Getting started

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Containers can be placed at different levels, so that you can sit togarden, or avoid bending.

Save the work of lifting bulbs or tender plants by planting them inpots or wire baskets in the border.

You will find it easier to water containers if you group themtogether.

Water-retaining granules can really save on watering, andslow-release fertilizer is an easy way to feed.

Taking care

Make sure that there is good access all round your containers sothat you can reach them comfortably.

Decide what works best for you – high beds, such as raised beds,that bring the soil surface close, or lower beds and containers thatyou can reach with longer handled tools.

Container plants need a lot more watering and feeding than plantsin the ground. If you have lots of containers, you might want to lookinto automatic watering systems.

Hanging baskets are best hung using a Hi-Lo pulley to avoidreaching up to tend them.

Don’t be tempted to try to lift heavy pots by hand. Save strainingyour back by using a pot-mover trolley.

Make sure that wall planters are securely fixed and are not likely tobe walked into.

Top tips to make

growing in

containers easier

Hints and tips

Plastic containers hold moisture better than clay or earthenwareand you can line hanging baskets with plastic to retain moisture.

A layer of gravel or shingle on the top of the compost will improvedrainage through the pot and reduce weeds.

In excessively wet weather, place containers in the shelter of a wallwhere they are less likely to become waterlogged.

Interesting trellis and plant supports extend the range of plants youcan grow in containers and can act as useful screens.

Top tips to make growing in containers easier

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The size of your containers will depend on the space you have, andwhat you intend to grow in them.

Slightly raised beds, such as kit-form planters made in recycledplastic or wood, are a practical option for growing vegetables orflowers on the patio or in the garden.

Or if you prefer the look or convenience of pots and tubs, you’ll findthese in all sizes and shapes.

Bear in mind that you can use shelving or stands to raise your potshigher so that you can reach them more easily, or to show plants at arange of heights. Some manufacturers produce their ownready-made display systems. Stacking pots are another option, togive a range of openings at different heights.

Matching the eventual size of plants to the size of your container isthe first step.

Shallow-rooted plants that prefer dry conditions, such as some of thesedums, can tolerate fairly shallow containers. In the main though,the deeper the container the better, as this will help to provide areservoir of moisture and nutrients for your plants. In general, avoidusing pots that are less than 23cm (9-inches) in diameter and deep,as these will dry out far too quickly in hot weather.

Containers must be large enough to prevent them blowing over inhigh winds.

Depending on size, most containers are moveable, especially ifmounted on pot trolleys.

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Choosing a

container

Container materials

Your choice will depend on what you like, the cost, and what will suityour garden. Brightly coloured pots or sleek zinc planters can suit amodern garden design; terracotta, wood, stone-look and woven hazeledged planters sit naturally in a cottage garden. Recycled ideas andnovelty pots can give a quirky twist to your outdoor space.

Clay pots look very good, and if want to choose these, pick glazedor frost-proof pots, and line them with plastic to avoid evaporation.

Plastic and polypropylene containers are lightweight, inexpensiveand come in a variety of shapes, sizes and colours. But cheapplastic can crack.

Galvanised tin or zinc containers have a modern feel, are light, andthe colour works well with many schemes.

Fibreglass is lightweight, generally durable, but is expensive, andcan splinter.

Lightweight fibre containers in paper pulp or coir, which come in allstyles, including window boxes, are light, inexpensive, but notlong-lasting.

Wrought iron or open steelwork planters are increasingly popular,and are sometimes supplied with fibre ‘inners’ that can be replacedas needed.

Wooden planters look attractive and are fairly inexpensive. Theywill need a coat of preservative every year or so to prevent themfrom deteriorating, and should be lined with plastic to prevent anysoil contamination from the preservative. A wooden half barrelwould be ideal for planting a small fruit tree or fruit bush. Someelegant wooden planters are now available with integral trellis orobelisk supports.

Reconstituted stone and concrete containers come in all shapesand sizes and are often interestingly textured. They are also veryheavy and extremely durable.

Choosing a container

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Novelty planters – often in reconstituted stone or terracotta – in various quirky designs – such as a head, where the foliagebecomes ‘hair’ – can add interest and be used as focal points.

Don’t forget that grow bags and grow-sacks can be a very useful,inexpensive solution, particularly for vegetables.

Using recycled items, like re-using household and other items ascontainers, is environmentally sound, can save you money andcreate something that is original. Recycled ideas include: oldbutlers sinks, old tin baths, chimney pots, buckets, watering cans,old boots, basins, kettles and pans. Make drainage holes, or use apot inside the container.

Large catering-size tin cans can also be re-used. Make somedrainage holes in the base, fold masking tape around the bare rimand then paint with emulsion paint for a bright planter.

Old tyres can also be re-used as planters. You can paint them withemulsion and stack as necessary to make higher beds.

Top tip

A tip from Jeremy Scott from East Sussex who was winner ofthe adult category of Blind Gardener of the Year competition2009:“The container I have constructed is made entirely of recycled potsand containers. When one of the small pots has finished producing,I can replace it with another pot should I wish to. The containers arefilled with my own mix of homemade compost and manure withadded water gel crystals to cut down on watering and provide goodnutrients.”


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Raised beds

Raised beds give you permanent, accessible planting plots at aheight that suits you. If you need to sit or stand to garden, a raisedbed might be the best solution.

Low, narrow beds or 1m (3-feet) square beds can be made fairlysimply using wooden planking fastened to posts.

The golden rule is to ensure that you can reach into the centre ofyour bed comfortably from both sides – so a maximum width ofaround 1.2m (4-feet) is best. If sited against a wall, a maximum of60cm (2-feet) is best.

Raised beds can be constructed in a range of materials, such aswood (including railway sleepers), stone, block and brick. In general,building in stone or brick is best left to experts.

Visit Thrive’s Carry on Gardening website(www.carryongardening.org.uk) for more tips and a guide tobuilding raised beds.


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Top tip

A tip from Jane Anderson of Nantwich on her fantasticsuccess with some new raised beds:“We decided on building two big ones, 3m x 1m (10-feet x 3-feet)and a small one, 1.8m x 1m (6-feet x 3-feet), all runningnorth-south, to use the irregular shape we had to best advantage.

The aim was to raise the beds to provide just enough depth to liftgrowing plants above the roots. So in the end, Robert boughtgravel boards – pre-treated 15cm (6-inches) sawn planks, availablein 2.4m (8-feet) and 1.8m (6-feet) lengths from builder’s merchants.These were nailed to battens to construct 30cm (12-inches) deepframes.

Everything has grown marvellously well – I feel I could show off myraised beds to anybody. My neighbour looks enviously at the sweetcorn; the broad beans and peas cropped well, but made me longfor more space to grow more of them. The other beans are nowproducing – the climbing ones with beautiful lavender-colouredflowers. And we’ve eaten a good many lettuces and radishes….”

Purpose-made planters

Several manufacturers now produce simple growing systems that areself-assembly, or ready to use. The internet based company GardenSelections (www.selections.com) have an extensive range.

The Link-a-bord system of 15cm (6-inches) by 1m (3-feet) recycledplastic panels lock together vertically and horizontally for a flexibleconstruction. Made by Armillatox, these have been given goodfeedback by National Blind Gardeners’ Club members.

Another recycled plastic bed kit, the Grow-in-Box, made by theStewart Company, can be built flexibly in panels with corner pieces,for square or rectangular beds.


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Similar packs are marketed for particular crops, such as potatoes.Another new development are lightweight woven plastic grow sacksor bags, some with handles, that can be folded away when not inuse.

Some suppliers are listed in the Appendix under Tools andEquipment.

Top tip

Jessica Finch, from Cambridge, writes:“The idea of growing my own vegetables has always appealed tome. It had to be a raised bed to cut down on ‘gardeners’ stoop’and to isolate it from the rest of the garden, which is mostlyintentionally given over to wildlife.

Lucy Morrell of Thrive recommended some recycled plastic panelsfrom Link-a-bord. When the 15cm (6-inches) by 1m (3-feet) panelsarrived, they were so simple to put together that, without readingthe instructions and without help, I could construct my chosenthree-panel high, 1m square bed. Each corner was secured by acouple of pins. The bed then had to be filled with whatever I couldfind – some previous composting and several bags of soil-basedcompost from the garden centre.”

Hanging baskets

These are now available in an extraordinary range of materials anddesigns, with new materials being developed all the time. Theseinclude baskets in wrought iron with ‘co-co’ (coir) inners, in wire,steel, woven hazel, woven hyacinth, rope woven with fern, grassstraw, rattan, ceramic, and many more. Designs can be round, deep,shallow, with flat or rounded bottoms, conical, rectangular, square,and with flat or wavy tops.

Wire baskets are still very popular and are traditionally lined withsphagnum moss. Imitation moss or a fibre or plastic liner that has


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apertures is a more environmentally friendly approach to lining yourbaskets. Plastic baskets with integral drip trays are not pretty, but arevery practical and use of trailing plants will soon hide the basket.

Garden Selections has a huge range of hanging baskets andplanters, including The Aqua Lock hanging basket which has anintegral capillary watering system.

Always consider how you are going to reach your baskets to waterthem. The Hi-Lo pulley system, which lowers the basket on a 90cm(3-foot) tape, or baskets that include their own pulley, make lifeeasier.

Top tip

A tip from Norman Waddington from West Yorkshire:“Easy-Fill Baskets from Mastermind Products are claimed to be theeasiest hanging basket to fill in the world! These plastic basketshave removable inserts or windows in the sides that allow you toplant without root damage. After planting, the window slots back inplace, leaving a gap for the plant. Because you can plant largerplants in the basket, you can put them straight outside – as long asthe plants can tolerate the weather! “

Free-standing hanging basket displays

Various companies make stands for your hanging baskets, if youdon’t want to hang them from a wall. Garden Selections’ hangingbasket display range includes a free-standing metal fountain planterwith tiers of baskets, a wire column of three baskets, and treeshaped supports.

Wall baskets

These come in all the variety described for hanging baskets,including trough shapes, mangers, half-baskets, curved or


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straight-edged designs. Again, they can be deep or shallow, andnarrow or deep from front to back. They can be fixed direct to thewall, or can be fixed with decorative brackets. In all cases, make surethat your fittings are secure.

Pot hangers

These are a variation on wall baskets. There are designs withwrought iron wall plates that have holders for one to three pots,arranged vertically or horizontally. Teamed with bright pots, thesemake an unusual feature, indoors or out. Some styles are designedto disguise a drainpipe.

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Which compost?

If you want to garden organically, you can find organic versions ofmany compost types.

Standard or multipurpose compost is a peat-based compost withadded fertilizers. Whilst peat-based composts are light, they arealso relatively ‘thirsty’, too. Multipurpose types suffice for mosttemporary containers. A cheaper way to buy this compost is in theform of grow bags.

An ‘environmentally friendly’ alternative with similar qualities topeat-based is peat-free compost, such as one containing coir(coconut fibre). These may need more supplementary feed,particularly when growing vegetables.

In general, a mixture of loam-based and peat-based orpeat-alternative potting compost should be used for growingvegetables.

If you have your own garden compost, one approach is to half-fillcontainers with this, then top up with grow bag compost to stopany weeds germinating.

Trees, shrubs, fruit and other permanent plantings will need aloam-based compost such as John Innes No 3. This is heavierthan peat-based types, but retains nutrients well.

Your summer flowering planters can benefit from using aproprietary container compost, containing a peat-based (orsubstitute) compost, slow-release plant food and water-holding gel.

For acid-loving plants such as azaleas and rhododendrons, useericaceous compost.

Planting your

container

Other specialist growing mediums are designed for alpine plants,orchids, and so on.

Seed compost does not contain enough nutrients to sustain plantsin containers.

Drainage

Make sure that you use a container with drainage holes. Raising thepot up on ‘pot feet’ or a wrought iron pot stand will also aid drainage.

Add a layer of drainage material in the base of your container. You can use broken pieces of polystyrene to reduce weight, orbroken ‘crocks’ (clay pots). For larger containers, you can add a layerof gravel on top of the crock layer.

Certain plants that need a free-draining compost, including somevegetables, will benefit from the addition of some coarse grit orvermiculite to the compost mix.

A final layer of fine gravel or shingle around your plants will also helpwith drainage through the container.

Mulch and top dressing

Finishing off your container with a mulch layer can greatly increaseits water-holding properties. Gravel, grit or clay granules or pebblesare best for plants that need good drainage; some new, morestartling mulches, such as coloured glass, can be used to tone orcontrast with your plant. Smooth stones or pebbles can work well forlarger ornamental containers. Bark looks attractive and will eventuallybreak down into the compost. Other decorative mulches couldinclude pine cones, conkers or shells. An organic mulch such as leafmould can also help to condition the soil, whilst well-rotted manure orgarden compost will both mulch and feed your container plants.

Top dressing helps to replace nutrients for plants in permanent pots,and can be done annually. It involves scraping off any compost or

Planting your container

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soil that you can from the top of the pot, being careful not to damageany roots that you feel near the surface. Replace this with freshloam-based compost and fertilizer. The spent compost can be addedto your compost heap or used as a mulch in the garden.

How to plant up your pots and containers

These tips are designed to help you plant your container relyingmainly on touch.

First of all, when choosing your plants, make sure that they areappropriate for your planter. Trees on dwarfing rootstocks, forinstance, will suit long-term life in a container.

When you’ve chosen your plants, familiarise yourself with each oneand arrange them nearby.

1. Place your container on a level surface, where you can workcomfortably. Very large or heavy containers are best planted insitu.

2. Have your compost, drainage material and plants close to hand.

3. Plants should be well-watered before you begin.


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4. Put in your drainage layer. Nearly fill yourcontainer with compost.

5. Arrange the plants in their pots, so thatthe rims of the pots are level with the rimof the container. With most containers,you would arrange the tallest growingplant in the centre, surrounded by lower-growing ones. Trailers need to be at theedge. If your container is to be sitedagainst a wall, or window, arrange thetaller plants at the back.

6. When you are satisfied with your design,remove the plants from their pots one ata time. With plastic pots, the easiest wayto do this is to squeeze the pot sides tofree the roots. Place your fingers underthe leaves and across the top of the pot,with the stem between your index andmiddle fingers. Turn the pot over andgently tap its rim on the edge of the worksurface. This should release the plant intoyour hand. Tease out the roots slightly.

7. Put the plant to one side, replacing thepot where it was in the container. Whenall the empty pots have been returned tothe container, fill between them withcompost and gently firm it around them.Give the container a gentle tap to removeany air pockets.

8. Remove the empty pots one at a time,giving each pot a little twist and lift it outwith both hands to leave a pot-shapedhole. Then drop each plant in its place, inturn. Gently press the compost aroundthe plants, and water in.


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9. Always leave a space between the top of the pot and the compostto allow room for watering. It might be best to wait until thecompost has settled before adding your mulch layer, such asgravel or bark. Ensure that there is a gap between the mulchsurface and the top of the pot.

If you are planting small plug plants or modular-grown seedlings, youwill probably find it easier to use a dibber or trowel to make yourplanting holes and plant each one in turn.

Top tip

A tip from Elizabeth Jones of London from her entry for BlindGardener of the Year 2009:“One thing I would say – try not to import weeds with plants; whenplanting new pot plants keep them for a week to find out if theycontain long term weeds, eg mares tail or elder weed etc, andsearch bare rooted plants for same.”

Planting hanging baskets

1. Mix your water-retaining gel or combined water-holding/feedgranules into the compost first.

2. Hanging baskets can be planted by resting the basket on a largeempty pot. If you can remove the chains, this will make plantingeasier.

3. Insert your liner, opening any side planting holes or windows. Fill the base around one third full with compost, or if using mossor moss substitute as a liner, fill the base with this.

4. Remove your plants from the pots, or loosen the plug plants fromtheir containers. Plant the sides first, by laying your plants (usuallythe trailers) onto the compost or sphagnum moss, arrangedevenly around the basket, and tease the foliage through the wireor apertures.


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5. Fill the basket with compost to within 2.5cm (1-inch) of the top, orif using moss as a liner, line the rest of the basket with moss andfill inside with compost.

6. Arrange your plants for the top of the basket with the tallest in themiddle, lower plants around and trailers at the edge. As the plantsare relatively small, simply make holes with your hands or adibber and gently settle each plant in its place. Firm the compostto finish.

7. Baskets can dry out very quickly and it is important to feed themmore often than plants in pots or tubs, because feed leachesaway with any water that sluices out.

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Watering

Plants in containers will need more water than plants in the ground.When you are deciding if you need to water, it is a good idea toexplore beneath the surface of the soil or compost. The surface maybe dry or wet but conditions just a centimetre below may be verydifferent.

In general when watering containers and baskets, give them a goodwatering each time, making sure that the water sluices out from thebase.

Summer hanging baskets need watering daily, and on a hot day,morning and evening. Use a Hi-lo basket pulley to save reaching up.If your basket has dried out, lift it down and immerse it in a bowl ofwater.

Water-retaining granules can be mixed with your compost to helpwith moisture-holding in containers and baskets.

Young and newly planted ornamental or vegetable plants will needregular watering. Vegetable and fruit plants will also need a steadywater supply when they are in flower and fruiting. Give yourvegetable containers a good soaking rather than watering little andoften.

The most efficient time to water is first thing in the morning or in theevening, as less water is lost through evaporation. If you water in theearly evening, you are less likely to scorch your plants if water getson the leaves.

Maintaining your

container

Use a watering can rather than a hose as this will conserve waterand keep down your water bills. Fit an outside tap, and/or raisedwater butt connected to the drainpipe, to save on trips into the houseand your water bill. The cheapest water butts are often available fromyour local council.

Automatic watering systems can save hours of watering and waterwaste. If you have a lot of plants in containers, group them togetherand the system can be set up to water them all. The systems can beexpensive and fiddly to set up, but some gardeners swear by them.Some systems, such as the Australian Tropf Blumat watering kits,don’t need a power source.

Save water by placing saucers or drip trays beneath your containers.

Applying a good, thick organic mulch onto moist soil will help toconserve moisture in the soil and keep the weeds down too.

Top tip

A tip from Eric Andrews of Sheffield in his Blind Gardener ofthe Year 2009 entry:“To reduce wasting water when using a watering can for planterson walls, patios, etc, I have inserted a small white plastic tube intoeach plant container. I remove the rose from the watering can, fit afunnel into the plastic tube and pour water into the container,without spilling any onto hard surfaces.”

Feeding container plants

Commercial compost contains enough fertilizers to give you aroundsix to eight weeks of strong growth. After this, you may need to feedyour permanent container plantings.

Vegetable plants in containers will benefit from additional feed.Feeding becomes more important for fruiting plants, which needadditional feeding once the fruit starts to form.

Maintaining your container

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Plants mainly take in food in liquid form through their roots, but canalso absorb nutrients through their leaves (as foliar feed).

Most feeds contain the key nutrients nitrogen, potash and phosphatein different proportions and are targeted at a particular time of growth– such as when fruit is developing. Select the right one for yourneeds. It is essential to read the instructions carefully, as too muchfertilizer can be as damaging to plants as too little. You may need tocall on a sighted friend and then devise your own labelling system asa reminder.

The most usual ways of applying fertilizers are as slow releasegranules, pellets, or liquid feeds.

Organic slow release fertilizers do what ‘they say on the tin’ and arereleased slowly through the growing season:

Pelleted chicken manure is high in nitrogen and therefore good forleafy vegetables. Sprinkle the granules on the compost and lightlyfork in.

Blood, fish and bone is a general fertilizer for leaf and root growth.Again, the granules are sprinkled on the compost in spring and arelightly worked in. Wear gloves.

Liquid fertilizers are usually sold as a concentrate or as solublegranules or powders that you dissolve in water and then water ontomoist soil or compost. Generally, a weekly feed in the growingseason is sufficient, but a tomato plant in a pot with lots of fruit mayneed feeding three times a week.

Liquid feeds:

Organic seaweed extract concentrate is a growth stimulant that isbest applied early in the plant’s growth.

Other organic feeds using both plant and animal ingredients areavailable from garden centres and by mail order.


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Liquid artificial fertilizers may be sold as concentrate or as aready-to-use liquid (a more expensive way to buy).

Top tip

A tip from Peter Pascoe from Essex:“One way to ensure that you can be sure of an exact measure froma two gallon watering can is to drill a small hole exactly on thetwo-gallon mark. When this level is reached a small stream ofwater will indicate the measure.”

Making your own liquid fertilizer

Wormeries are a composting system using a colony of worms tobreak down organic matter. These produce a concentrated liquid thatcan be drawn off by tap and applied as feed when diluted at a rate ofone part to ten parts water.

Nettle feed is made early in the season, by steeping 1kg (2lb 4oz) ofcut nettles in 10-litres (2.25 gallons) of water. Cover and soak for aweek. Remove the nettles and add to your compost heap. Use theliquid diluted one part to ten parts of water, but be warned – it smellsstrong!

Potting on

Some of your permanent container plants may need potting on intolarger containers as they grow. This gives them more room for theroots to spread, and a fresh supply of compost.

Take the new, larger pot and place on a level surface. Put drainagematerial and a small amount of compost in the base. Place the emptypot from your plant in the centre, making sure the top of this pot islevel with the rim of the larger pot. Fill around with compost, firm, andtap the larger pot to remove any air pockets. With a gentle twisting


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action, lift out the pot to leave a hole. Drop your plant in the hole,gently tap the pot to settle the compost, and water in.

Top tip

A tip from June Earl:“Container gardening is now a must, especially for my clematisand camellias. During a visit to Wisley, I fell in love with the waxy,crimson and purple bells of clematis ‘Sir Trevor Lawrence’. I knewthat if I planted it at the back of my border it would just become ablur. Instead I opted for an obelisk support and a very large pot,and it has been a daily joy. Not only does the pot raise it closer tomy eyes, but I can also stand within an inch or two to see itsbeautiful detail. The family have been very generous and I nowhave 18 clematis as well as eight camellias – instantly accessible.Yes they do need special care, but I love this new phase of mygardening life.”

Supports

If you are growing climbing plants, or fruit or vegetables where thecrop needs support, you will need to provide an adequate supportsystem for them. Other plants that don’t climb, but have delicatestems, may also benefit from some support.

For dwarf varieties of peas or beans, for instance, twigs orbrushwood pressed into the soil close to the plants will be enough.

Taller climbers will benefit from a wigwam of three canes tiedtogether at the top, a trellis on the wall behind, or a system of wireseither fixed in tiers to a wall or to posts.

You can also buy some very attractive willow or hazel trellis supports.These come in panels that are fan-shaped, rectangular, or withcurved tops that you can fix into or behind your container.


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Obelisk or ‘wig-wam’ supports in willow, hazel or steel are alsoavailable – Garden Selections have a range.

Look out for containers with integral supports, too.

You could try making your own obelisk shaped support by tying nineor so canes or hazel sticks together at the top and bending and tyingtwo or three circles of willow inside the structure. Use fine willow,strong wire or string to fasten them together. Or you could weavewillow around the base of the support to make the structure morestable.

Fast-growing bush or sprawling plants such as courgettes will need afirm central cane (topped with a cane topper for safety).

Fruiting plants such as cucumbers or currants will need tying-in towire supports as they grow.


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Tie-in your plants using appropriate plant ties, string, or recycleditems such as plastic shower curtain rings.

Top tip

A tip from Marion Watts of Cheshire, who says: “I use an enormous number of ties in the garden – some forherbaceous plants, but mostly for the many climbers that I have. Iknow green coated wire is cheap, but I find it cuts into plants suchas clematis.

Take an old pair of tights (preferably tan colour) and cut across theleg in 2.5cm (1-inch strips). The result is a lot of 1-inch widecircles. If these are then cut through, you will have strips ofelasticated material about 10cm (4-inches) long, which will stretchto 20cm (8-inches) and make tough but soft ties for all sorts ofuses.”

Protection

Try to select plants for your winter and year-round containers thatcan brave the elements.

More vulnerable plants in containers can be planted into pots in thecontainer and lifted out before the frosts or severe weather comes. If the whole container needs bringing in, it will be easier to move intothe conservatory or greenhouse if it is already mounted on a pottrolley.

Even in mild areas, tender plants that cannot be left outside withoutprotection should be taken into the greenhouse or conservatory bythe beginning of January, as generally the weather gets colder fromthen on.

If you have containers or hanging baskets that you cannot moveindoors, if frost is likely, cover plants with one or two layers ofhorticultural fleece and if possible move to a warm, sheltered spot.


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You can also protect the roots of vulnerable plants by wrapping thepot itself in fleece or bubble-wrap.

Don’t allow pots to become waterlogged if frost is likely.

Pests and diseases

Good cultural practices, such as having good drainage in yourcontainers, not overcrowding plants and feeding and wateringcorrectly, will reduce the likelihood of pests. Help to avoid spreadingdiseases by giving your pots and seed trays a good wash beforeusing them.

Don’t re-use compost for vegetable growing in containers; buy fresheach time. The old compost can be used as a mulch in the garden.

Be aware of the major pests and diseases associated with the plantsyou are growing, so that you have some idea of the signs to look outfor. Most pests have life-cycles that follow similar patterns each year.By knowing the life-cycle you can, for example, delay seed sowinguntil after the time that the pest is most prevalent.

You may need sighted help, from time to time, to check for signs ofpest and disease problems.

There are some varieties of plants that are resistant to some pestsand diseases and it is worth investing in these. Look out for newresistant varieties in the seed catalogues.

The Thrive/RNIB book Getting on with growing food details someof the major pests for each of the common vegetable groups.

Planting ideas

One of the bonuses of gardening in containers is that it is relativelyeasy to create displays for each season. You can plant individualcontainers for each season or replant or refresh your containers withappropriate plants as the seasons come around.

Here are just a few planting suggestions for each season; you canconsider these for hanging baskets, window boxes, tubs and anyother containers of your choice.

Spring

Snowdrops, crocuses, scillas, iris reticulata, daffodils, tulips, primulas,polyanthus, auriculas, pansies, lily-of-the-valley, bluebells, anemoneblanda, periwinkle, violets and wallflowers are some of your choicesin spring. They can be used in simple combinations according to theirflowering times, or they can be used with more permanent subjectssuch as ivies or other evergreens.

Spring, autumn and winter baskets can be prone to waterlogging, sothe best compost to use for containers in these seasons is a mix ofhalf container and half loam based compost.

A wallfower and daffodil tub

24 daffodil bulbs or 4x13cm (5-inch) pots of daffodils (Narcissus)

3 bushy wallflowers (Cheiranthus or Erysimum)

These sturdy plants work well together. Plant up in the autumn usingdaffodil bulbs and wallflower plants, or make up the tub in spring

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Ornamental

container planting

by season

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Ornamental container planting by season

using four pots of daffs in bud and three wallflower plants. You mightfind planting slightly easier using bulbs.

Method

Use a rustic wooden tub or other 36cm (14-inch) container and putsome polystyrene pieces into the base, to fill the bottom third. Half-fillthe tub with compost. Arrange 12 daffodil bulbs evenly over thesurface. Cover with compost. Arrange another 12 bulbs. Remove thewallflowers from their pots and place the three plants in a roughlytriangular form towards the edges of the tub. Fill the tub withcompost, working it around the wallflowers and firming it in. Sprinklea tablespoon of plant food granules onto the surface and work itlightly in. Keep the compost slightly moist.

A display of white tulips, periwinkles and violets

20 white tulip bulbs (or plants in bud in the spring) (Tulipa)

5 sweet or purple violets (Viola odorata)

2 periwinkles (Vinca minor)

It is best to begin this tub in the autumn, planting the bulbs first.

Method

Use a 60cm (24-inch) container and add polystyrene pieces to fill thebottom third. Half-fill your pot with compost. Arrange the tulip bulbsevenly over the compost and cover with at least 15cm (6-inches) ofcompost.

Top up the compost in early spring, to within 7.5cm (3-inches) of therim.

Take one violet from its pot and press the empty pot lightly into thecentre of your tub, taking care not to damage the tulip tips below.Tease out the roots of the violet and position it in the hole you havemade. Firm the compost around. In the same way, plant the four

other violets evenly around the edge. Plant a periwinkle on eitherside of the central violet. Sprinkle a generous tablespoon of plantfood granules into the compost.

When your tulips have finished flowering, lift and hang them up in acool place; they can be replanted in the container in autumn. Dead-head the violets and they will flower all summer.

Top tip

A tip from Norman Waddington from West Yorkshire:“For late winter or early spring hanging baskets, you can usebulbs. Surround the basket edge with variegated ivies, which willgive some form after flowering. For a 30cm (12-inch) basket, plantnine miniature daffodils in the centre and surround these with30-40 double snowdrops. Soak the basket in a bucket of waterafter planting, and this display should not need a great deal ofwatering at all, simply keep the compost just moist.

Preparation for this basket can begin in early November, or thebulbs can be grown on in pots and planted up just before you putthe basket on display. You can also use other small spring bulbssuch as grape hyacinths.

The first primroses and polyanthus are usually on sale early in theyear and can be found in most garden centres when the flowersare forming. These are a quick and very effective method ofcreating a spring basket. You can use nine in a 25cm (10-inch)basket, 11 in a 30cm (12-inch) and 15 in a 35cm (14-inch) basket.There is no need to put any plants around the sides, as withcompact planting they will tend to over-hang the edge of thebasket.”


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Summer

You are spoiled for choice in this season, and in addition to beddingplants, you can mix and match a whole range of bulbs, herbaceous,annual and other planting.

Cottage garden in a hanging basket

Try mixing cheerful annual bedding plants with herbs to make aminiature cottage garden. These need to be fairly short stemmedplants to work well in a hanging basket. You can choose your ownplants, or try:

3 pot marigolds (Calendula officianalis)

3 felicias (a blue daisy-like annual) (Felicia bergeriana)

5 parsley plants (Petroselinum crispum)

Method

Make this basket in the spring. Use a 36cm (14-inch) hanging basket.You can line it with moss or moss substitute, or use a lightweightfibre liner.

If using moss, begin by lining the bottom of the basket. Lay yourparsley plants evenly around the sides of the basket, putting therootballs onto the moss layer and teasing the foliage through thewire. Line the rest of the basket with moss and fill it with containercompost, firming around the parsley plants. Plant the three marigoldsin a roughly triangular formation in the top of the basket and plant thefelicias in between them.

Give the basket a good soak from the base and keep it well watered.


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Vivid window box

For a really colourful but unusual window box, try this combination:

3 Alaska nasturtiums (cream splashed leaves) (Tropeolum majus‘Alaska’)

3 Brachycome (tiny trailing daisies) (Brachycome iberidifolia)

2 yellow snapdragons (Antirrhinum majus)

2 yellow gazanias (Gazania rigens)

Method

Fill a 76cm (30-inch) plastic window box with compost, mixing in twoteaspoons of slow release plant food. Plant one nasturtium in thecentre, and one at each end of the window box. Then plant the twosnapdragons on either side of the centre nasturtium. Plant onegazania next to each snapdragon. Plant the three brachycomedaisies, evenly spaced, along the front, to trail over the edge.

Water well, and keep in a sunny spot.

Top tip

A tip from Norman Waddington from West Yorkshire:“If constant watering is a problem, geraniums and pelargoniumscan tolerate some drying out, so are ideal for your summer hangingbaskets. Some good examples are the ‘Mini Cascade’ geraniums.These come in various colours from white through pinks to deepreds and purples.

For a hanging basket using fuchsias, for the best effect, alwaysuse only one cultivar type within a basket. For a 25cm (10-inch)basket chose three plants, and for a 30 or 35cm (12 or 14-inch)basket, five plants. If they are pure trailing fuchsias, plant them upon their own. Some good ones are: ‘Cascade’, ‘DevonshireDumpling’, ‘Pink Marshmallow’, ‘Red Spider’ and ‘Trail Blazer’.”


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Autumn

Some autumn container planting ideas include: dwarf dahlias,pansies, ivies, heathers, dwarf hebes, marguerites, diascias,potentillas, convulvulus and box.

Sunny yellow hanging basket

4 yellow winter flowering pansies (Viola wittrockiana)

2 yellow dwarf dahlias (eg Dahlia ‘Yellow Hammer’)

1 Euonymus fortunei

3 variegated ivies (Hedera)

Method

Use a 30cm (12-inch) hanging basket. Line the base of the basketwith moss/moss substitute. Put in compost to the top of the moss.Lay three pansies around the edge of the basket, with the rootballsresting on the compost. Lay each of the three ivy plants evenly in thespaces between the pansies.

Line the rest of the basket with moss and cover the pansies and ivieswith compost, firming it around. Plant the Euonymus in the centre ofthe basket, with the two dahlias and one pansy in a rough trianglearound it. Scatter a tablespoon of slow-release plant food granulesinto the compost.

Water the basket well.


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Top tip

A tip from Norman Waddington from West Yorkshire:“For autumn baskets, I suggest using some perennials.

For the sides you will need three variegated ivies, then for the top,one – or three – variegated grasses, and you could also experimentwith an epimedium. If you want a purple basket, use three purpletellimas (one of the saxifrages). Or you could experiment withautumn flowering heathers, using a peat-based compost, as theylike to be on the acid side.

One naturally flowering plant in October is the ‘Kaffir Lily’,Schizostylis coccinea. You will need several bulbs, which will archand cascade down the sides of the basket.”

Winter

Winter container plantings include winter pansies, heathers, andsmall evergreens such as Berberis darwinii and Berberis thunbergii,bergenia, Pachysandra terminalis, box, periwinkle, cotoneaster, hollyand skimmia. Variegated and golden evergreens add variety to winterplantings.

A trug of winter pansies

A rustic wooden trug – or even an old wooden seed box or basketwill make an attractive container for 15 winter flowering pansies.

Method

Line the trug with moss or a substitute and top up with compost.Closely plant and firm the pansies in one at a time, starting at oneend of the container, with five rows of three plants, arrangedinformally. If you know the colours of your pansies, mix light, darkand medium shades for a natural look. Add a final layer of compostmixed with a tablespoon of slow release plant food.

Water well and place in a sunny spot.


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Top tip

A tip from Norman Waddington from West Yorkshire: “Another good winter plant for containers is ornamental kale;cabbage ‘White Northern Lights’ is a nice creamy white. You woulduse three in a 25cm (10-inch) basket, four in a 30cm (12-inch) andfive in a 35cm (14-inch) basket. Try variegated ivy around the sidesfor a trailing effect. The white ornamental cabbages help to lightenup a dark corner in winter, but remember, cabbages smell – sodon’t put the basket in an enclosed site!”


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Containers and pots come in such a range of colours that you canchoose them to tone with, or contrast with your planting. Forinstance, try a range of pink plants in a deep pink container, or use abright blue pot to contrast with warm, bright plantings.

Colours from the warm spectrum of shades: deep pink, red, orange,and yellow, combine well.

Cooler colours: pale blue, pale yellow, pale pink and white, work wellin combination with silvery foliage plants for a cooler, more delicatefeel.

Acid colours such as lime green and lemon also work well together.

Complementary colours are colours that work well together fromopposite ends of the colour spectrum. Blue complements orange,purple complements yellow, red complements green.

It might help you to see your plants more clearly if pale or brightcoloured plants are placed in front of dark evergreens.

‘All one colour’ containers have a sophisticated appeal. Simply selectplants of one colour, or shades of one colour, that will bloom aroundthe same time. Use a mix of plant sizes, keeping small trailers to thefront edge of your design.

All-white container

1 white pelargonium

2 white trailing verbenas (Verbena x hybrida)

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Ornamental

container planting

by colour and scent

41

Ornamental container planting by colour and scent

1 white bacopa

2 white marguerites

2 Senecio cineraria ‘Silver Dust’

This arrangement will suit a 45cm (18-inch) rectangular container orwindow box.

Method

Put in polystyrene in a shallow drainage layer. Fill your container withcontainer compost. Plant the pelargonium in the centre, towards theback.

Plant your marguerites on either side of the pelargonium. Plant thetwo verbenas in the two back corners. Plant the senecios in the frontcorners. Plant the bacopa, which will trail, in the front of thecontainer, in the centre. Water well and keep in a sunny spot.

Deep reds

Another twist is to use plants of one colour in darks and lights, likethis red mixture.

1 heliotrope (Heliotropium arborescens)

1 black grass Ophiopogon planiscapus ‘Nigrescens’

2 dahlia ‘Bednall Beauty’

2 purple trailing verbenas (Verbena x hybrida)

2 red trailing verbenas (Verbena x hybrida)

Method

In a 60cm (24-inch) rectangular container or window box, plant theheliotrope in centre back, with the purple verbenas on either side ofthe heliotrope. Put the dahlias in the back corners, and the black

grass in front of the heliotrope. The red verbenas sit in the frontcorners, to trail.

Scent

Containers are a wonderful way of bringing scent into the garden.Plant each container with a plant with a distinctive scent, beingcareful not to put too many containers with different fragrancestogether. You can position your scented pots in different places, asmarkers, for orientation, or simply for you to enjoy at particular spots.

A basket of pinks

Pinks have a distinctive, strong carnation scent. Combine them withprostrate thymes and other delicate plants for a scented basket youcan hang near the back door.


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7 pinks (Dianthus deltoides)

3 thymes – prostrate types (Thymus x citriodorus)

2 pink verbenas (Verbena x hybrida)

Method

Line the base of the hanging basket with moss or a substitute. Lay three pinks evenly around the sides of the basket. Line the restof the basket with moss and top fill with compost, adding in ateaspoon of slow-release plant food.

Evenly space and plant the three thymes around the top edge of thebasket. Plant one pink in the centre of the basket with the twoverbenas and three pinks arranged around this.

Silvery scented display

For a delicate scented arrangement in shades of silver, pale blue andpurple, group together in a 60cm (24-inch) window box:

2 purple lavenders (Lavendula)

2 pale blue petunias (Petunia x hybrida)

4 deep blue petunias (Petunia x hybrida)

4 Chaenorhinum origanifolium (sometimes known as dwarfsnapdragon)

6 Helichrysum petiolare

Method

Arrange the lavenders at the back, with the flowering plants evenlyarranged between and in front, with the helichrysums in the centrefront, to trail.


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Top tip

A tip from Thrive’s Come Gardening Editor Val George:“If your garden soil is unsuitable for lilies, it might be worth tryingsome in pots. You can enjoy lilies on the patio, or in pots that canbe stood or plunged into the ground in sunny sheltered spots in thegarden.

Oriental pot lilies are highly scented and their upward-facing flowersappear in late June and July. Tall varieties grow to 60-120cm (2-feet– 4-feet) and will need a large pot or tub, and should be staked.‘Little Love’ is a smaller oriental patio pot variety, with very fragrantwhite flowers.

Oriental hybrids are also highly scented and their hugeoutward-facing flowers appear in late July and August. Asiatichybrids are again scented with upward, downward or outwardfacing flowers appearing in June and July. ‘Compass’ is afree-flowering Asiatic Hybrid producing masses of soft orangeblooms. This one is quite compact and will suit a patio pot.

Feed your pot lilies from the top, every fortnight, with a liquidfertilizer once the shoots have appeared. Regular watering is criticaltoo, especially at flowering time.”

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Your planters can be themed, to add interest.

For instance:

A ‘seaside garden’ using seaside plants, shells, sand and driftwoodor pebbles.

Recycled containers and objects, planted with unusual plants suchas sedums.

A wild area of containers, with butterfly plants, a mini meadow,cornfield annuals or herbs.

Grasses and foliage plants.

Tactile plants with textured leaves.

Mediterranean – using terracotta planters with pale gravel mulchand bright sun-loving plantings.

A water or bog container or area.

A collection of ferns – for shade.

Flower shows such as Chelsea are full of these themed ideas, sotune in to the special programmes to get more inspiration.

Single star

For a striking scented specimen plant to act as a focal point, try aStar jasmine, which has an attractive pyramid shape. It will look goodon its own in a 50cm (20-inch) square, formal planter.

Ornamental

containers design

ideas

Butterfly planter

For a scented collection that will attract butterflies, for a 60cm(24-inch) narrow window box, try:

1 sedum ‘Ruby Glow’ (Sedum spectabile ‘Ruby Glow’)

1 marjoram (Origanum x majoricum)

1 origanum (Origanum vulgare)

1 lemon thyme (Thymus x citriodorus)

1 common thyme (Thymus vulgaris)

Method

Plant the marjoram at the left-hand edge of the box, with the sedumto the right of this. Plant the lemon thyme in the centre at the frontand the common thyme in the back right-hand corner. Plant theoriganum in the front right-hand corner.

Other scented plants you could try include: Daphne odora‘Aureomarginata’ (shrub), jasmine, various scented lilies; Cosmosatrosanguineus (chocolate scented).

A hanging basket of succulents

As with other baskets, select trailing plants for the sides, a showyplant for the centre, and top plants to fill around the main plant.

When selecting plants, remember that some succulents have spikes.Feel from the base up, rather than from the top down, and exploreslowly, but definitely explore!

Here are some possible choices:

Side tumbling plants:

Sedum spurium – ‘Ruby Mantle’

Ornamental containers design ideas

46

Sedum wallaceum

Delosperma cooperi

Orostachys spinosa

Graptophyllum

Sedum rupestre

Suggestions for ‘spot’ plants for the centre:

‘Purple Tree’ (Aeonium)

Sedum praeathum

Agave (spiky!)

Top plants:

Aloe aristata

Lewisia – Ashwood hybrids

Sempervivum

Echeveria ‘Black Prince’

Agave ‘Glicera’

Pachyphytum

Method

Succulents appreciate poor nutrient levels, and the recommendedgrowing mix is half horticultural gravel, to half John Innes compostNo 1. Mix the compost as you would a crumble topping, by runninglightly through with your fingertips.

In a wire basket with a liner that has apertures, put in your compostto a third of the basket height. Plant a variety of side tumbling plantsthrough the apertures, to rest on the compost. Add compost to the


47

top of the basket. Place your chosen central plant in the top of thebasket, and choose a selection of top plants to surround the centreplant. Top-dress with a layer of gravel, partly for decoration and partlyas a mulch.

Make sure that your basket chains are strong enough – or stand thearrangement on a pot, or basket stand, where you can see and feelthe plants.

Feed sparingly in the growing season. Some succulents are fullyhardy, some half-hardy, and some tender, so take care when thereare frosts. Place the basket in a sheltered place and protect withfleece, or bring inside in cold weather. Water sparingly, once a week.


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Only choose small, slow-growing shrubs and trees for yourcontainers. When choosing your variety, look for types that will growin upright rather than very bushy forms. A few trees to consider mightinclude: Acer palmatum, holly, laburnums, crab apples, or smallflowering cherries. Small weeping trees can also work well, such asSalix caprea pendula, or Cotoneaster ‘Hybridus Pendulus’. Anadvantage of growing trees in a container if you have limited space isthat it will help to keep the trees small.

Some shrubs might include: Berberis thunbergii, box, camellias suchas Camellia x Williamsii or C japonica, rhododendron, bay, yuccas,skimmia, hydrangea, Euonymous fortunei, Choisya ternata, Viburnumtinus.

When choosing your tree or shrub, try to pick one that has interest allyear, including blossom and berries or fruit.

Trees need a container with a minimum diameter of 38cm(15-inches). You’ll need a heavy pot for stability, and it can be helpfulin winter to pack heavy pots together to avoid them blowing over.

Plant using loam-based compost such as John Innes No 3. Trees willneed regular watering and feeding in the growing season, and annual top-dressing. A mulch layer of your choice will help to keepmoisture in.

Your trees and shrubs will probably need an annual prune to keepthem in shape. Remove any damaged or diseased wood and aim foran open framework of branches.

Trees and shrubs

in containers

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Trees and shrubs in containers

To give your plants a really good start in the spring you can repot theplants, top dress using John Innes No. 3 compost and slow releasefertiliser or give the container a liquid feed. If a container grown treeor shrub is not thriving you can often revive it by repotting into alarger pot (being careful not to shock the plant by moving it into a potthat is too big) or by pruning its roots. Root-pruning involves trimmingthe roots and putting the plant back into the same pot with freshcompost; this will limit the growth of the plant. Always give a plant agood soaking before removing from its pot.

Top Tip

A tip from Colin Hughes, from Maghull, near Liverpool: “Raymond Evison, a notable clematis grower, was selling a set ofthree of his newest clematis varieties: ‘Kingfisher’, a deep bluevariety, ‘Ice Blue’, and the true-red ‘Rebecca’. The three clematisvarieties were all large and repeat-flowering.

I was surprised when he said that all three plants could be grownin an 18-inch ceramic pot and, as long as John Innes pottingcompost was used and the plants were not allowed to dry out, youwould get a mass of beautiful flowers. A packet of clematisfertilizer was even supplied in the offer! I have been both delightedand amazed during the past two years at how many lovely flowersthe plants have produced. Also, as there are three differentvarieties, there is scarcely a time during the summer when at leastone clematis isn’t in flower!”

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Herbs are ideal for containers and you can grow a surprising numberin a small space to add diversity and flavour to your cooking. By growing herbs in containers you have the advantage of being ableto place the container where it is easily accessible for picking theherbs for use in cooking.

Many herbs are very decorative. Most can be raised from seed, and some, such as lavender and rosemary, can be propagated bycuttings.

There are so many herbs to try – but if you are just starting off, growa selection of your favourites in a container close to the house,where you can easily pick the herbs in any weather.

Good herbs for year-round containers are: rosemary, lavender, bushythymes, winter savory and bay. French lavender, some sages, androsemary will need to be protected during severe weather. Move thepots to a sheltered spot, if you can, and cover with horticulturalfleece.

Some herbs, such as basil, offer a huge number of different varieties,and this can become an interest in itself. Some basil types include‘Green Ruffles’, with ruffled leaves, ‘Anise’ (Ocimum basilicum) a decorative form with maroon foliage and pink flowers, or ‘Holy’(Ocimum sanctum), a basil reputed to be sacred, with a clove-likescent.

Some of these rarer forms will provide you with all manner ofinteresting textures, colours and scents within your containers, and make a real talking point.

Herbs in

containers

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Herbs in containers

Herbs can also be inter-planted with vegetables in containers for aminiature potager-effect.

Top tip

A tip from Sense East from Lincolnshire, third prize winners ofthe group category of the Blind Gardener of the Year 2009:“The raised bed is mainly for herbs as it is near the kitchen, a largerosemary is in the centre with thyme, mint, curry plant, chives,parsley. We have also planted pumpkins, squash and nasturtium inthe container.

The herbs supply will be all year round and give colour and heightto the container. They are also used as a marker as the container ison a corner position. The nasturtiums look nice and take thestarkness of the raised beds, they also attract the bees to helppollinate the pumpkins and squash, they can also be used insalads.”

A shade-loving herb planter

Mediterranean herbs such as rosemary do need lots of sunshine butthere are other herbs which prefer a cooler situation to taste theirbest.

Here’s a scheme for a collection of herbs that enjoy light shade.

1 lemon balm (Melissa officinalis)

3 different mints – black peppermint, curly spearmint and pineapplemint (Mentha x piperita, Mentha spicata ‘Crispa’, and Menthasuaveolens ‘Variegata’)

1 chive (Allium schoenoprasum)

1 sorrel (Rumex)

1 parsley (Petroselinum crispum)

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Herbs in containers

This would work well in a rectangular container or window box that is50cm (20-inches) long by 25cm (10-inches) wide.

Method

Line the base with polystyrene or other drainage material. Top upwith compost mixed with three teaspoons of slow-release plant foodor organic alternative.

Plant the lemon balm and two of the mints along the back edge.Plant the third mint, chives and sorrel along the front edge. Plant theparsley in the centre.

Place in light shade and water well.

A medicinal planter

Most herbs have some medicinal purpose, but you can select theones that you use most often for a medicinal container. Use a deepwooden trug, or other rectangular container.

1 lavender (Lavendula augustifolia)

1 rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis)

1 fennel (Foeniculum vulgare)

1 chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile)

1 feverfew (Tanacetum parthenium)

3 pot marigolds (Calendula officinalis)

Method

Put in drainage material and compost, mixed with two teaspoons offertilizer. Plant the lavender in the centre. Plant the rosemary in thefront right-hand corner. Plant the chamomile in the back left-handcorner. Plant the fennel in the back right-hand corner. Plant the

54

Herbs in containers

feverfew in the front left corner. In-fill with the spaces left with thethree marigolds.

Water well and place in full or partial sun.

Top tip

A tip from Cath Rickhuss, Thrive’s Training and EducationManager:“The best herbs for freezing are the tender-leaved species such asbasil, mint, chives and parsley. Pick young shoots and sprigsduring the morning. Put the shoots into plastic freezer bags,making sure the bags are fully sealed. Once frozen, the herbs canbe used to flavour soups, casseroles and sauces without thawing:simply crumble them into the dish before cooking.

You can also freeze herb leaves in water. Strip the leaves from theirstalks and chop them finely. Place some chopped leaves into thebottom of an ice-cube tray, and fill with water. Place in the freezercompartment. Either use to flavour dishes or drop into a glass ofwater for a cool drink.”

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If you have sight loss, containers can make growing your own foodmuch easier and much more accessible, with maintenance beingmuch easier, too. And whatever outdoor space you have, containersmake it possible to grow something to contribute to the kitchen.

The size of your containers will depend on the space you have. It could be just a windowsill, or a pot by the back door.

A group of well-chosen pot-grown vegetables can produce a stunningdisplay, both visual and tactile, since many common vegetables havesurprisingly interesting foliage, eg feathery leaves of carrots andgreen-maroon foliage of beetroot.

Your vegetable containers will be an attractive, as well as practicaladdition to your garden. Naturally, your choices will depend on whatyou want to harvest, and if only growing a few of each vegetable, youcan opt for mixed containers, planting vegetables that like the sameconditions together.

Top tip

A tip from Iain Wallace of Glasgow in his entry for BlindGardener of the Year 2009:“To help with the identification of different crops use differentshaped containers for each plant.”

Mixing vegetables with flowers or herbs also makes for attractiveresults. Plant in clear blocks, so that you can find what you wantmore easily. With single vegetable containers, you can plant foroptimum cropping.

Vegetables in

containers

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Vegetables in containers

If you need to use permeable terracotta pots, line them with plastic toavoid evaporation. If possible use deep containers – the deeper thebetter, as this will help to provide a reservoir of moisture.

Specialist planters are available for a range of different vegetables,from growing bags for beans, to tubs for potatoes and pots forstrawberries; Garden Selections have a good range.

Top tip

A tip from Mark Smith, of Norwich, who says: “This year we have found growing vegetables in small baskets hashelped a great deal, and crops such as leeks, carrots and lettucehave grown well. The baskets we use are approximately 30cm(12-inches) by 60cm (2-feet) and around 45cm (18-inches) deep,with drainage holes and a carrying handle. The baskets areespecially easy for weeding and I don’t accidentally walk on youngplants.”

Compost

For growing most vegetables, a mixture of a loam-based compostsuch as John Innes No 3, and a peat-based, or peat-substitutecompost will be best. Some vegetables benefit from improveddrainage and the addition of some grit or Perlite to the mix.

For large containers such as raised beds, dig over and weed the soilinside the bed, incorporate some well-rotted manure or otherfertilizer, and top up with a generous layer of loam-based compost.

Vegetable plants and seed

Certain crops, such as radish, benefit from direct sowing, but in themain, you will probably find it easier, and have more success, if youtransplant young plants into your container.

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You can avoid pricking out seedlings by sowing in modular seedtrays, or for larger seeds or deep-rooted vegetables, into individualpots. You can also use yoghurt pots, home-made newspaper pots orcardboard toilet roll inners.

Top tip

A tip from Jeremy Scott from East Sussex, 1st prize winner inthe adult category of Blind Gardener of the Year 2009:“To give my carrots and parsnips the best start, I plant the seedinto toilet roll tubes, all the other vegetables I plant in cells. Thenhaving prepared the ground I transfer the toilet rolls or cells into thebed. This stops any chance of weeding out vegetable seedlings bymistake.”

There are step-by-step tips on sowing seed in Volume 1 of theThrive/RNIB book Getting on with Gardening, and in Getting onwith growing food, which also has cultural information for a range ofvegetables.

Pre-sown seed modules offer beginners an introduction to seedraising. They are more expensive than sowing your own seed andare only available in a limited range of flowers and vegetables. The ‘So-Eezey’ range is available by mail order from Thompson &Morgan.

If you don’t want to raise your vegetable plants from scratch, you canbuy young vegetable plants for your containers by mail order and atgarden centres.

Planting vegetable containers

When preparing your containers, follow the advice set out in earlierchapters on drainage, and ensure that your containers and growbags have drainage holes.

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For larger raised beds, you might want to set up a garden line to helpyou plant straight rows of vegetables or to sow seed. Use a nyloncord line with strong elastic at the ends, attached to pegs or stakesfixed into the soil at each side of the bed. The string should fit,slightly stretched, across the bed. The elastic will make the stringspring back into a straight line if it is moved. After each row isplanted, move the line to the next position.

A string knotted at measured intervals can help with spacing yourplants see Volume 2 of the Thrive/RNIB book Getting on withGardening, and in Getting on with growing food for instructions.

If you want to direct-sow vegetable seed in your container, quite afew common vegetables are now available as seed tapes. These arepre-spaced seeds embedded in fine paper tapes, which you can cutto length. Make a shallow trough with a hand hoe or your finger,following a garden line if necessary, and lay the seed tape along thetrough, before cutting to fit. Cover the tape with around 1cm (1/2-inch) of compost and water well using a watering can with a finerose.

For plug plants and modular sown plants, release the plants fromtheir containers and plant them individually, using a dibber, trowel oryour hands. The following section gives some indication of how manyplants will thrive in a container of a particular size.

Water your plants in as you go, and finish with your mulch layer.

Some suggestions for vegetables in containers

Almost every vegetable can be grown in a container. GardeningWhich? magazine conducted a trial to find out the optimum numberof particular vegetable plants that would grow successfully in a 25cm(10-inch) pot.

Different numbers of carrots, cauliflower, chard, lettuce, onions andpeas were sowed or planted in a standard 25cm (10-inch) pot.

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Also, one potato or courgette was planted in pots of increasingvolume, from 10 to 30-litres. The experiment was repeated five times,so that all the figures quoted are averages of five pots.

In most cases, the quality of the vegetables produced was rated atleast ‘acceptable’ at all densities. All of the vegetables gave goodresults, apart from the cauliflower, which is not suited to containergrowing. Here are brief details of the results:

Carrot ‘Early Nantes’

Growing carrots in containers is a good alternative if your soil is coldand heavy and suffers from pests. The best results came from direct-sowing 32 seeds into a 25cm (10-inch) pot, which produced the bestcombination of weight and quality. With even, careful spacing, thecarrots don’t need thinning out, which can attract carrot root fly.

Top tip

A tip from John Rear of Leicester in his entry for BlindGardener of the Year 2009:“I grow carrots, onions and tomatoes in one container. I grow theseplants in the container because putting them together cuts downthe carrot fly. I have chosen this type of container because it is offthe floor which makes the plants resistant to carrot fly by beinghigher off the ground.”

Chard ‘Bright Lights’

Eight plants transplanted into a 25cm (10-inch) pot gave the bestresults for yield and quality. Also consider single colour chards suchas ‘Bright Yellow’ or ‘Ruby Red’.

Courgette ‘Ambassador’

The best results came from using one plant in a 20-litre pot. Theyellow fruiting variety ‘Goldrush’ might be easier to see and pick, if you have some vision.

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Lettuce ‘Little Gem’

The best results came from transplanting four seedlings into a 25cm(10-inch) pot. Other varieties to consider for colour and form are:‘Freckles’ which has blotched red and green leaves, ‘Cocarde’ whichhas a red tinge, or ‘Flamenco’ which is bright red – both being oak-leaf types.

Onion ‘Hysam’

This hybrid variety was sown direct into 25cm (10-inch) pots. Fourseeds yielded four very decent sized onions, eight seeds resulted ineight smaller ones, and so on, right down to 64 – which were just theright size for pickling. Onions, then, are well worth growing in pots,especially if you want a particular size for the kitchen.

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Pea ‘Sugar bon’

Sixteen seeds of this sugar snap type pea were the most successful,sown in a 25cm (10-inch) pot. The plants were supported by awigwam of canes. All the pods picked were of good quality.

Potato ‘Accent’

This early variety has compact foliage, and was harvested as newpotatoes. The best results came from using one sprouting tuber in a20-litre pot, giving a good yield and reasonable-sized tubers.

Top tip

A tip from Ruby Warnes from Dorset in her entry for BlindGardener of the Year 2009:“I have been growing potatoes in a very large flowerpot for threeyears, planting them in layers about six to the pot.”

Top tip

A tip from Len Betts from Northants in his entry for BlindGardener of the Year 2009:“My best tip is to grow potatoes in buckets. The reasons for thisare:

− you only need to sow one potato− pick all potatoes – you do not lose any− easy− saves space in plot.

Also if you sow potatoes in the second week of August they will beready for Christmas.”

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Other suggestions for vegetables in containers

Asparagus

Growing asparagus in pots saves space in the vegetable plot, avoidsproblems with perennial weeds and provides lovely feathery foliagefor the patio. April is the ideal time to plant, in a large container.Make sure there are drainage holes and add 10cm (4-inches) ofcoarse gravel. Fill with a 50:50 mix of garden soil and sievedhome-made compost, and plant the crowns 10cm (4-inches) deep.Keep well watered and apply a general purpose feed through theseason. Top-dress annually with garden compost. You’ll have a twoto three year wait for spears, but it will be well worth it, and you’ll findit easy to harvest them.

Aubergine

Almost any variety of aubergine will give good results, but rememberto pinch out the lead shoot to keep them compact. Plant one plant ineach 20cm (8-inch) pot, or three plants per grow bag. They need fullsun.

Beetroot

This will respond to spacing in much the same way as onions orcarrots – resulting in a few large ones, or lots of small ones,depending how many you put in your container, and when youharvest. ‘Boltardy’ is a bolt-resistant early, dark red beet; ‘Burpee’sGolden’ has orange skin with yellow flesh.

Top tip

“Don’t forget that baby beetroot leaves are a great addition tosalads.”

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Broad beans

There are dwarf bush beans that will only reach 30cm (12-inches)tall, such as ‘The Sutton’. Use a container that is at least 20cm(8-inches) deep, with room for plants about 10cm (4-inches) apart.

Cabbage or kale

These brassicas can be grown using one plant per 20cm (8-inch)diameter container, or three in a large window box or grow bag. Grow in early spring for autumn harvests, or in summer, for winterharvests. Dwarf kales include ‘Green Curled’, Redbor’, and ‘RussianRed’. Autumn cabbage includes ‘Cuor di Bue’ and ‘Red Drumhead’.Winter cabbage – ‘January King’, or ‘Vertus’. Feed the plantsregularly with a nitrogen-rich feed.

Cucumbers

‘Patio Pik’ is a long cucumber that is ideal for container growing.Grow one cucumber plant per 30cm (12-inch) pot, or three per growbag. Round cucumbers include ‘Marion’ and ‘Crystal Apple’, which isa lemon sized fruit. A sunny position is needed.

French beans

Bush or climbing types are ideal for containers. For colour, choose‘Purple Teepee’. For stringless, pencil-podded beans try‘Tendergreen’, which is a dwarf bush. Around six to eight Frenchbean plants can be grown in a 25cm (10-inch) container.

Globe artichokes

These need a large container, with the plant making an attractivefeature in its own right.

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Jerusalem artichokes

Like potatoes, these suit a large container, such as a barrel. The tallfoliage will make an excellent windbreak for more tender plants.

Kohl rabi

This is another brassica to try; one plant will grow in a 15cm (6-inch)container. A fast growing variety can be grown in autumn to cropbefore winter.

Leeks

This member of the onion family does well in a tall, narrow container,such as an old chimney pot, which allows you to earth them up asthey grow. Space at 10cm (4-inches) apart, for smallish-sized leeks.

Lettuce and other salad leaves

These can be grown as cut-and-come again crops. Sow the seedsabout 2.5cm (1-inch) apart, do not thin, and cut off the leaves at thebase when they are 10cm (4-inches) high. Cos lettuce does wellsown in this way.

Chinese cabbage: the dwarf-growing ones make good containerplants. These can also be sown as a cut-and-come again crop.

Rocket and corn salad are other useful salad leaf crops forcontainers.

Radish

Radish could be grown all year round in a window box. The bestvarieties for summer are ‘French Breakfast’ and ‘Long White Icicle’.The hardy variety ‘Black Spanish Round’ is the most popular forwinter use.

For a very quick and easy crop of radish, try sowing a couple ofpinches of seed in a flowerpot. The variety ‘Scarlet Globe’ is

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delicious. Fill a pot with compost to about 2.5cm (1-inch) of its rim,sprinkle over a little seed, cover with compost, water and stand in a bright position on the patio. The seeds will germinate within days;keep moist and the crop will be ready to pick and eat in about 6-8weeks.

Runner beans

Try the bi-coloured variety ‘Hestia’ or ‘Flamenco’, a mix of red-andwhite flowered varieties. Transplant around four or five modulargrown bean plants to a 30cm (12-inch) diameter container, supportedby canes for each plant, tied together at the top.

Top tip

A tip from Wendy Chamberlain, Thrive Project Manager:“Remember your supports could also be living supports; eg plant asunflower in a heavy pot and sow a runner bean with attractiveflowers (try ‘Painted Lady’) next to it to use the sunflower assupport.”

Sweet Peppers

With peppers, the hardiest outdoor varieties are ‘Canape’ and‘Gypsy’. If growing indoors on a windowsill, try the decorative dwarfforms – ‘Fips’ reaches only 18cm (7-inches) tall, or ‘Holiday Cheer’will reach around 25cm (10-inches). As a general rule, plant oneplant per 20cm (8-inch) pot.

Tomatoes

These are an obvious choice for containers and trailing cherrytomatoes are ideal for hanging baskets. The compact bush varietiessuch as ‘Red Alert’, ‘Sleaford Abundance’ and ‘Tumbler’ are easy tomaintain and will produce a bountiful crop in late summer. Containersshould be at least 25cm (10-inches) in diameter and at least 30cm(12-inches) deep. One grow bag will take three plants.

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Turnips

These need to be planted with 10cm (4-inches) between plants, sochoose your container accordingly. ‘Tokyo Cross’ is quick growing;‘Golden Ball’ is yellow-fleshed.

Look out also for ‘mini vegetable’ collections, where the plants havebeen bred to be harvested small, and are ideal for containers.

Top tip

A tip from Caroline Wootton of Nottingham, 2nd prize winner inthe adult category of Blind Gardener of the Year 2009:“I grow tomatoes in hanging baskets, on extra long chains, so that Ican reach them to water, feed and pick in comfort and this alsoprevents pests eating them and keeps the tomatoes off the ground.Vertical wooden poles guide me to the baskets.”

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Top tip

Remember that hanging baskets can also be used for growingyour vegetables; David Heath from Stevenage in his entry forBlind Gardener of the Year 2009 told us:“Hanging baskets have been planted up with a selection of saladsto make them attractive but also more interesting that traditionalbaskets solely filled with flowers. In the baskets we plantedtumbling cherry tomatoes, spring onions, leaf lettuce, rocket,nasturtiums as well as a few flowers to add some instant colour.”

Mini-food garden window box

It’s surprising what vegetable plants you can fit together in a smallspace. This ‘mini allotment’ window box is best planted with boughtor home grown vegetable plug plants.

1 garlic plant

3 Chinese leaf plants

4 beetroot plugs

1 pepper plant

3 dwarf French beans

3 shallot plug plants

Method

Use a 76cm (30-inch) narrow plastic or fibre window box withdrainage holes. Fill the box with compost, mixing in two teaspoons ofslow-release plant food granules or an organic alternative. Plant thegarlic at the right hand end, then the three Chinese leaf plants. Put inthe four beetroot plugs, closely spaced. Next plant the pepper, to theleft of centre. Now plant the three dwarf French bean plants. Finally,

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plant the three shallot plugs in the left hand end. Water well andstand in full or partial sun.

Top tip

Marjorie Carpenter from Surrey asked:“With the hosepipe ban, my veg are not doing well, especiallysweet corn; will sweet corn grow in containers?”

Thrive replied: You can plant sweet corn in containers 10-12cm (4-5-inches) apart.Plant the modular sown seedlings in a block formation. Mulchthem with a 5-7cm (2-3-inch) layer of compost made from lawncuttings. You must water copiously to start with and the watermust go down deep enough. Place a 7cm (3-inch) flowerpot, or alarge plastic drinks bottle with the bottom cut off, by the side ofthe plants. Fill this with water, which will trickle down to the roots.

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Soft fruit

Plant fruit bushes in a loam-based compost unless otherwise stated.Good drainage is vital, and you can preserve moisture in thecontainer by mulching around the plants with compost, straw, gravelor bark. Most bush fruits benefit from a high-potash fertilizer in earlyspring.

Blueberries

The bushes can be evergreen or deciduous and usually grow toabout 1.5m (5-feet) high. Blueberries need an ericaceous (acid andhumus-rich) compost, mixed with an equal quantity of grit, fordrainage. Try one in a 30cm (12-inch) pot and apply a high potashfeed (such as tomato feed) occasionally during the growing season.Plant two different varieties of blueberry to ensure cross-pollination.They require a position in full sun or light shade. As these arelime-haters, water with rainwater if you live in a hard water area.They are more successful if replanted every two or three years.

Currants

Currants do well in containers and are relatively easy to grow andmaintain. A 30cm (12-inch) minimum diameter container is best.

Blackcurrants, red, white, and golden currants, grow to about 1.5m(5-feet) tall. Red and white currants can be grown as cordons, withonly one lead shoot trained to wires or a stake.

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Fruit in containers

Blackcurrants generally crop the best. Make sure you choose a self-fertile variety if you are only having one currant bush. Apply a high-nitrogen feed at the start of the growing season.

Blackcurrants

A high-fruiting dwarf blackcurrant variety is ‘Ben Sarek’; ‘Laxton’sGiant’ has large, sweet fruits. Blackcurrants naturally produce a largenumber of stems from just below ground level; to encourage thisgrowth, plant the bushes roughly 5cm (2-inches) deeper than theywere in the pot or at the nursery if bare-rooted. Blackcurrants fruit onthe previous year’s growth. Once that growth has fruited, it should becut out completely to ground level.

Red currants

‘Red Lake’ and ‘Red Start’ are both heavy fruiting. Red currantsshould be planted about 2.5cm (1-inch) deeper than they were in thepot or at the nursery if bare-rooted since new growth comes frombelow ground level.

White currants

‘White Versailles’ is a good all-rounder; ‘White Imperial’ has a goodflavour.

Begin the summer pruning of red and white currants in June. Simply remove the ends of side shoots when they are about 15cm(6-inches) long, shortening them to about 7cm (3-inches).

Goji Berries

These are reasonably drought-tolerant, and will grow in partial shade,although you will get more berries if you grow them in full sun.

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Fruit in containers

Gooseberries

Gooseberries can be grown in a container at least 30cm (12-inches)in diameter. You can now buy some as standards, with a long stemand ‘lollipop’ head. Gooseberries and red and white currants can alsobe grown as cordons, trained against wires.

Dessert gooseberries include ‘Early Sulphur’, ‘Langley Gage’, and‘Leveller’, all with yellow fruit. Gooseberry ‘Pax’ is a delicious reddessert variety, which is virtually spine-free. Cooking gooseberriesinclude ‘Invicta’, ‘Jubilee’ and ‘Careless’.

Begin the summer pruning of gooseberries in June. Simply removethe ends of side shoots when they are about 15cm (6-inches) long,shortening them to about 7cm (3-inches).

Top tip

To the French, gooseberries are inextricably linked with mackerel,so much so that their name for them is groseilles à macquereau,mackerel berries. Their tartness makes them a good foil for the oilyfish, and Blind Gardener of the Year competition entrant ColinMorgans, from Mid Glamorgan, suggests using a gooseberry pureeto accompany the fish.

Honeyberry

This is very hardy and produces a reliable crop. The blue fruit tasteslike blueberries, with a slight aftertaste of honey.

Raspberries

Raspberries, loganberries and blackberries can all be trained againsthorizontal wires and so kept more easily under control. There arethornless varieties of all three, which makes handling and picking somuch easier.

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Fruit in containers

Some summer-fruiting raspberries include ‘Boyne’ (early summer);‘Algonquin’ is a mid-season fruiter; and ‘Haida’ a late summer fruiter.Summer types fruit on the previous year’s growth and are prunedafter fruiting to ground level.

Autumn fruiting raspberries include ‘Autumn Bliss’ for early autumn,the late autumn ‘Ruby’ and a yellow variety ‘Allgold’. Autumn fruitingraspberries fruit on the current year’s growth, which you cut afterfruiting.

Plant two or three raspberry plants in a container at least 30cm(12-inches) across, placed against a sunny wall.

Raspberry/blackberry hybrids include tayberry, Worcesterberry,boysenberry and loganberry.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb is a great plant to grow in a container with its wonderfularchitectural foliage. A rhubarb crown needs a good-sized tub or a60cm (24-inch) pot. The stems can be pulled until early July; then itshould be allowed to grow unchecked to build up reserves.

Strawberries

Strawberries are an excellent crop for growing in containers since itis easy to keep the fruit clear of the soil. To enjoy fresh berries overthe longest period, either grow perpetual fruiting varieties, whichallow you to pick small quantities of fruit all summer, or plant early,mid season and late varieties separately. To maintain high yields youwill need to replace your plants every three years.

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Fruit in containers

Top tip

Joan Parker from Sutton-in-Ashfield tells us how shesuccessfully grows her strawberries:“Joan grows her plants in pots using multi-purpose compost,rainwater and her husband’s tomato feed. She has developed awell-organised system, potting her plants up into 10-inch potsearly in the year, in her greenhouse. As the plants come into fruit,Joan pulls down some of the larger leaves to rest the fruit on, sothat they are not in contact with the compost. She says that shecannot see the fruit unless she puts her nose right up to the plant,but she can tell when they are ripe by the smell and that theybecome shiny.

After enjoying the fruit, Joan puts the plants outside in the semi-shade, where she feeds them to encourage the growth of therunners. The plant puts out several shoots, or runners, along whichnew plantlets develop. Joan tucks only the first of each of thesenew plants into 9cm (3-inch) pots, nipping off any further growthfrom the runner. The plantlets need to remain attached to themother plant while they get established in their pots. Sherecommends using a cat-litter tray for each ‘mother’ plant and itsbabies, which keeps them all together and therefore moremanageable.

Joan numbers all her plants as she pots them, so that she cankeep track of their age. As she has limited space, she keeps herplants for only three years, as she finds their cropping reducesafter this time.”

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Fruit in containers

Top tip

Eric Whittle from Southend-on-Sea asked:“I have today taken delivery of some strawberry plants, which I intend growing in pots in the greenhouse. Can you tell me what topot them up in; what size of pots, and type of compost?”

Thrive answered: You can use growing bags very successfully for strawberries – orpots. Give them plenty of room by using 25-30cm (10-12-inch)pots, with one plant per pot. Use your preferred compost, whichcould be multipurpose, or John Innes No 3, etc. Strawberry potsare large, tall clay pots with planting holes spaced at differentheights around the sides. You plant a strawberry in each of theholes and end up with a ‘tower’ of plants.”

Top tip

Gordon Parker from Staffordshire grows strawberries incontainers which he puts into his glasshouse in February andhas fruit in the second week in May, he says:“Strawberries grow well with less chance of snails or slugs eatingthem, they are also earlier and nicer tasting.”

Top fruit

Most types of fruit tree are suitable for container cultivation, given theproper care and attention. Plant one and enjoy the blossom in spring,fruit in autumn and frosted winter branches. A fruit tree in a containerwill look equally good on its own or under planted with other fruitssuch as strawberries, or with small flowering bedding plants.

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Fruit in containers

Apples

Always choose a variety grafted onto a dwarfing rootstock forcontainer growing. There are ‘family’ trees especially produced forcontainers or small spaces, where two or three varieties are graftedonto one rootstock.

There is a wide range of apple cultivars, from sour cooking apples, to dessert apples. Dessert apples need full sun, but cooking applescan be grown in the shade.

Dessert apples to look out for are: the August-cropping ‘Beauty ofBath’, ‘Discovery’, or ‘George Cave’; September-fruiting‘Greensleeves’, ‘Red Devil’, or ‘Scrumptious’. ‘Falstaff’, ‘Jupiter’ or‘Rosemary Russet’ will give an October harvest.

Unless you have a family tree, you will need another apple of adifferent variety growing nearby that flowers at the same time, forpollination. Ornamental crab apples will also pollinate most applevarieties.

Part-trained trees are easier to maintain than a standard tree. Acordon is a tree (on a dwarfing rootstock) grown as a single stem bycutting back all the side shoots and trained at an angle of 45 degreesonto supporting wires, fence or wall.

There are some ‘tip bearers’ where the fruit is mainly borne at theends of shoots. These should not be grown as cordons.

An espalier is similar to a cordon, but has two or three pairs ofbranches that are trained out flat against a wall or onto wires.

You will need a container at least 60cm (24-inches) across. Whenplanting, ensure that the bump where the grafted trunk joins therootstock is just above soil level. Apply an organic fertilizer aroundyour tree in February and March, then cover with a thick mulch.

Cherries

Cherries need to cross-pollinate with a different variety, but you canalso buy a tree on dwarfing rootstock with two varieties grafted on.Gisela 5 rootstock produces small trees suitable for containers.‘Morello’ is the best known sour cherry, ‘Stella’ a self-fertile sweetcherry. They will fruit better in sun.

Plant up in a container at least 45cm (18-inch) diameter, and pot onto a 60cm (24-inch) after two years. Feed from spring onwards, andwater consistently when in fruit.

Prune cherries in late spring, or summer after fruiting – not in autumnor winter as this may encourage silver leaf disease. Net the tree tosave the crop from birds.

Figs

As the roots of figs prefer to be restricted, container-growing is ideal.‘White Marseilles’ is a green fig; ‘Brown Turkey’ has purple-brownfruit. A warm, sheltered position, or a conservatory or greenhouse, isbest.

Pears

Ask at your nursery for a pear for a container, grafted onto a dwarfingrootstock. If you are only having one pear, choose a self-fertilevariety, such as ‘Conference’ or ‘Williams Bon Chrétien’. For fruit inlate August, choose ‘Beth’, ‘Onward’, and ‘Williams Bon Chrétien’.For a September harvest, select ‘Beurre Hardy’, ‘Conference’, or‘Concorde’. And for an October crop: ‘Doyenne du Comice’, ‘GlouMorceau’, or ‘Josephine de Malines’.

Start with a 45cm (18-inch) diameter container and repot to a 60cm(24-inch) one after two years. Pears need boron and manganese tofruit well, so feed with an appropriate fertilizer.

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Plums

Most plums will fruit better if a suitable pollinator is grown nearby, or is grafted onto the same stock. For a container, choose diseaseresistant cultivars grafted onto a dwarfing rootstock such as ‘Pixy’.

For fruit in early August, choose ‘Early Laxton’, ‘Early TransparentGage’, and ‘Czar’. For August to September fruit, choose ‘ImperialGage’, ‘Cambridge Gage’ or ‘Victoria’. ‘Marjorie’s Seedling’, ‘Coe’sGolden Drop’, or ‘Kirke’s’ all crop in late September.

Start in a 45cm (18-inch) container and pot on to a 60cm (24-inch)one after two years.

Fan training is best for the stone fruit – peaches, plums, cherries,damsons – with a main stem trained against wires or fence andselected side shoots trained in a flat fan shape.

For tips on pruning fruit trees, refer to the Thrive/RNIB books Gettingon with Gardening (volume 2) or Getting on with growing food.

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Display ideas

If you want to group your houseplants together in containers, makesure that you group ones with the same requirements together. Fourthat could be planted in a container with good drainage, are:Maidenhair fern (Adiantum), Button fern (Pellaea rotundifolia), Africanviolet (Saintpaulia) and Gynura (to trail over the front edge).

Don’t forget that if you have a sunny windowsill, you can grow someherbs, or more exotic plants such as chillies.

A simple way to arrange houseplants together is to place the pottedplants inside another container, such as a basket. This way, you canremove faded plants and refresh the display with another. You canalso stand some of the central pots on blocks of florists’ ‘Oasis’ togive a domed effect to the arrangement.

Another idea is to use a narrow terracotta or wooden window boxand drop in potted plants in a row. Make sure that your container islined, or has no drainage holes, to protect surfaces from water.

Care

When looking after and placing your houseplants, it’s useful toconsider where the plants occur naturally. For example, South Africanviolets come from the rainforest, where there is plenty of humidity –just what they miss in the living room. Try them in the bathroom orkitchen, where the humidity is higher. Many bulbs come fromMediterranean countries where they flower in the cooler wetterspring, followed by a very hot dry summer.

Houseplants in

containers

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Houseplants in containers

The most common cause of houseplants dying is over-watering. This, along with being kept in the very dry atmosphere of manycentrally heated houses, puts extra stress on the plants.

If your plants are arranged on a windowsill, move them in front of thecurtains at night, or try to draw the curtains behind them in the coolseasons.

Top tip

A tip from Martin Jones, of Blackpool on the care ofhouseplants. He says: “The inside of a banana peel gently wiped on your plant leaves willnot only remove any dust, but will add shine as well.”

Cuttings from houseplants

This summer, set aside some time to take cuttings from yourfavourite houseplants. Although African violets, Cape primrose,Begonia rex and other plants can last as long as three or four yearswith annual re-potting, ultimately they will deteriorate and lose theirvigour. It is really easy to take a few leaf cuttings and raise newplants. Individual leaves from an African violet can be rooted simplyby pushing their stalks (with leaves attached) into small pots ofcompost. Kept in a warm greenhouse, these will root and grow intonew plants.

Alternatively, larger plants can just be divided into individual crownsand potted up separately.

Here are a few tips on what to do with the houseplants that havefinished flowering.

Amaryllis: continue to water and feed weekly until the leaves turnyellow. Then dry the bulbs off completely for three months beforere-starting growth by resuming watering. Amaryllis can be kept as

pot plants for many years by repotting with fresh compost everythree years.

Hyacinths can be planted outdoors after flowering, or simplydiscarded.

Pot chrysanthemums: remove dead flowers, which can help themto flower for longer. Plant outdoors when they have finishedflowering.

Poinsettias: after flowering, gradually reduce watering over aperiod of about a month, until dry. Cut back to six inches high andresume watering in the spring. Poinsettias are likely to grow verylarge after their first year; in their natural setting, they are largeshrubs.

Cyclamen: keep out of draughts. After flowering, reduce wateringuntil the leaves die down. Dry off completely. Repot the corms inAugust and gradually increase watering as new shoots appear.

Stoneware bowl display

Try planting up a stoneware bowl of mixed flowering plants andfoliage plants, using a combination of small bushy, trailing andvertical plants. The centre showy plant can remain in its pot to beremoved and replaced as needed.

Method

Choose a selection of houseplants. Take a large stoneware bowl witha drainage hole, and put in a drainage layer of crocks or bark. Part-fillthe bowl with compost.

Take your central feature plant out of its pot and place the empty potin the centre of the bowl. Then arrange the other plants around thepot in the bowl. When the arrangement feels right, take the plantsfrom their pots, replace the pots in the bowl and firm around withcompost.


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Take each pot out in turn, with a ‘twist’, and plant each of the plantsin its hole. The showy plant can be placed back in its pot in thecentre, to be replaced when flowering is finished, or a more longlasting one can be planted directly in the compost.

Scented conservatory arrangement

For a conservatory or window in full sun, an arrangement of delicateflowering scented plants will work well in a narrow windowbox.

1 scented-leaf pelargonium ‘Lady Plymouth’

2 variegated ground ivies (Hedera)

2 deep purple trailing verbenas (Verbena x hybrida)

2 deep blue miniature petunias (Petunia x hybrida)

Method

Check that the box has drainage holes and fill with compost, addinga teaspoon of slow-release plant food granules. Plant thepelargonium in the centre. Plant the ground ivies at each end, andthe two verbenas at the back. Plant the petunias in the front. Waterwell.

The ivies will eventually trail down in cascades; if they start to takeover, cut them back.


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Appendices

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January

During very cold weather, wrap pots in bubble wrap to prevent thecompost from freezing solid. Cover half-hardy plants withhorticultural fleece or old net curtains.

Check how moist compost is to ensure it’s not over wet throughblocked drainage holes.

Plant fruit trees or bushes in large pots or tubs.

February

Wash pots and disinfect them.

Order any plug plants that you require from catalogues.

On cold nights cover new shoots appearing on your plants withhorticultural fleece.

March

Top dress permanent tubs.

Plant lilies, herbaceous perennials, shrubs, strawberries and othersoft fruit.

Start seed sowing of summer vegetables and bedding plants on alight windowsill or in a greenhouse.

Appendix 1: A year

in container

gardening

84

A year in container gardening

April

Start feeding containers.

Plant containers with vegetables sown in March, or sow direct.

Deadhead spring bulbs and plant summer bulbs.

May

Increase watering especially in warm or windy weather.

Plant up summer pots and hanging baskets. Put in sheltered placeto establish.

In late May plant out half hardy bedding plants and vegetables.

June

Deadhead all flowering plants regularly.

Start harvesting quick maturing vegetables and start pickingstrawberries as they ripen, protect from birds by covering withfleece.

Increase watering of new plants as they grow.

July

Check for pests and diseases and keep on top of weeds.

Make successive sowings of quick maturing vegetables.

Sow or order plug plants of winter/spring bedding such as winterpansies.

August

Continue to feed and water all containers regularly.

Prick out seedlings of winter/spring bedding or pot on plug plants.

Start harvesting apples, pears and plums.

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A year in container gardening

September

Finish liquid feeding and reduce watering as temperatures dropand days shorten.

As summer bedding plants fade these can be removed, potsemptied, cleaned and planted with spring bedding and bulbs infresh compost.

Trim hardy shrubs to keep in shape.

October

Move half-hardy shrubs and perennials into a greenhouse orconservatory if possible or protect with fleece during cold spells.

Lift half-hardy bulbs when foliage dies back and store in a cool,dry, frost-free place.

Plant hardy shrubs.

Empty planters used for growing vegetables and clean thoroughly.

November

Move permanent containers to a more sheltered position ifpossible.

Order seeds from catalogues for next year.

Remove dead leaves and tidy up herbaceous perennials.

December

During very cold weather, wrap pots in bubble wrap to prevent thecompost from freezing solid. Cover half-hardy plants withhorticultural fleece or old net curtains.

Treat icy paving with salt or paving de-icer.

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This section explains some common gardening terms you mightcome across in your container growing.

Annual

Is a plant that germinates from seed, that grows, flowers and setsseed all in one year. The plant then dies. Many gardeners usecontainers to grow their annual plants.

Bedding plants

A term used for some of the common annual plants sold as smallplants for containers, baskets and borders.

Biennial

Is a plant that grows from seed and puts on leaf growth in the firstyear. In the second year it flowers, sets seed and dies.

Earthing up

Potatoes are earthed up as they grow to prevent the tubers turninggreen near the surface, where it is light. Green potatoes arepoisonous. Use deep containers to grow potatoes – one tuber in a20-litre pot should work well, adding compost around the stem as theplant grows.

Eye protection

One of the most common causes of accidents in the garden canoccur when a person bends down and catches their face, neck or

Appendix 2:

Glossary

87

Glossary

eye on the top of a cane used to stake a plant. Reduce the risk ofinjury by shielding the top of the cane. There are a number of‘cane-toppers’ on the market, made of plastic, or terracotta. You canmake your own using small pots, film containers, yoghurt pots, etc,which can be placed upside-down on the cane.

F1 hybrid plants

These hybrids are produced by crossing two perfectly true parentstrains. Many bedding plants and some vegetables are bred as F1hybrids. F1 hybrids have greater vigour, improved performance, anduniformity of colour, form, habit, size, and in the case of vegetables,maturing time. Seeds from F1 hybrids cannot be guaranteed to breedtrue.

Harden off

This term is used to describe making plants grown inside, or withheat, accustomed to conditions outdoors. If you don’t harden off yourplants gradually, the shock of the cooler conditions can damagethem.

Hardy plants will survive the winter unprotected, but half-hardy plantswill need protection. Tender plants will not survive any frost.

Horticultural fleece

Is an opaque, lightweight material that can be used to protect cropsagainst frost/cold or as a barrier against pests. It is available fromgood garden centres.

Latin plant names

These may seem bewildering to the novice gardener. One benefit ofusing Latin names is that plants can be recognised throughout theworld, regardless of the native language.

88

Glossary

The Latin plant name starts with the genus, which is a noun, eg Acer– the maple. The genus always starts with a capital letter.

Next comes the species name. It describes a character of the plantand is an adjective. It starts with a lower case letter. Acer palmatum,for instance, has leaves shaped like a hand, with a palm and fingers.

Some plants will have a second or sub-species name. If this is anaturally-occurring or wild plant, then this too, is written in lowercase. If, however, the plant is cultivated, then the cultivar name – or names – start with a capital letter and are written inside quotationmarks, eg, Acer palmatum ‘Dissectum’. Here ‘Dissectum’ describesthe leaves as divided into sections, in this case along the ‘fingers’.The cultivar need not be a Latin name – it might be an ordinaryEnglish word or named after a person.

The names of plants are useful as they give an indication about theplant’s form, habit, colour of leaves or flowers, its country of origin,and so on.

Mulch

Is material used to cover the soil or compost. Common loose‘organic’ mulches are garden compost, shredded bark and cocoashells. Hard mulches include gravel, grit, clay granules, colouredglass and pebbles. Mulching will suppress weed growth andconserve moisture in the container compost and can also add to thedecorative effect.

No-dig beds

It is possible to avoid digging altogether by using a no-dig method.A very thick layer of compost, and usually straw, is put over the soiland plants are planted into this. The action of worms andmicro-organisms ‘do their bit’ and you can hang up your spadeforever! You can use this technique in your raised beds. For moreinformation, contact Garden Organic.

89

Glossary

Organic growing

Is gardening without the application of chemical fertilizers, pesticides,herbicides and other treatments. Crops are kept healthy by usinggood practice, such as crop rotation, composting, and timingplantings to avoid pest populations. You can also buy organicallyproduced seed.

Perlite

Is a mineral that is heat-treated to expand and has a honeycomb-likestructure. It can be mixed with compost to improve aeration anddrainage. Vermiculite is a similar material that has a highwater-holding capacity and be used on its own for seed sowing, ormixed with compost.

Perennials

Are plants that go on growing year after year. Perennials are dividedinto two:

– herbaceous perennials where the plant dies down to ground leveleach year

– shrubby perennials, which includes plants that do not die down –the shrubs (and trees).

Pot trolley

Avoid back strain by sitting your pots on a pot trolley tray or wirebasket mounted on castors, so that you can move them more easily.

Protection

In cold weather, move containers to a sheltered spot and usehorticultural fleece to protect tender plants from frost.

90

Glossary

Pulley

Use one for raising and lowering your hanging baskets for ease ofmaintenance. The Hi-Lo pulley is made especially for your baskets.

Raised beds

These are growing beds that are raised above ground level. Choosea height that you are comfortable working at. If building in brick,stone or block, use a builder. Find out more by visiting Thrive’s Carryon gardening website www.carryongardening.org

Saucers

Use saucers or trays under your containers to conserve moisture.

Sizes of flower pots

Relate to the diameter across the top of the pot. You can fill 58x9cm(3 1/2 inch) round pots from a 20-litre bag of compost. You can fill13x40-module seed trays from the same size bag of compost.

Soil pH

Soil pH levels range from acid (below 6.5 on the scale) throughneutral (6.6 to 7.5) to alkaline (above 7.5). Most vegetables prefer aslightly acid soil. An acid soil can be made more alkaline by usinglime (calcium) or chalk.

The great benefit of container growing is that it will allow you to growthe plants you want to, in correctly chosen compost, regardless ofyour garden soil.

Supports

Various plant supports can be used in conjunction with your containerand some containers have integral supports. Choose a support thatsuits the needs of your plants.

91

Glossary

Top-dressing

Trees, shrubs and perennial plants in containers will benefit fromannual top-dressing. This involves removing as much compost asyou can without damaging the plants, and adding new compost andfertilizers as needed.

Water-retaining granules

These can be added to your container compost. They swell up toabsorb water, and release it gradually into the compost. Some arecombined with a slow-release fertilizer.

Wash-up

Help to avoid spreading diseases by giving your pots and seed traysa good wash-out before using them.

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This section offers some tool and equipment ideas for gardening incontainers, along with contact details for manufacturers. Moreequipment ideas are included in the Thrive/RNIB books Getting onwith Gardening volumes 1 and 2 and Getting on with growingfood, or visit Thrive’s Carry on Gardening website:www.carryongardening.org.uk

One of the benefits of working in containers is that they need lessworking – and therefore you need fewer tools. If you can reach yourcontainers easily, often all you will need is your hand tools, such as atrowel and fork.

If you need to tend your lower-level containers and raised bedswithout bending, there is now a whole range of lightweight ‘multi-change’ tools with ‘snap on’ interchangeable heads and variouslengths of handle, to enable you to work comfortably.

You might also need a lightweight border fork and planting spade foryour lower raised beds. Check that the length of handle, weight andbalance is right for you before you buy.

General

Before buying any tool, always try it out. Choose tools that havebrightly coloured handles that will contrast against soil and foliage tohelp you find them when you put them down. Specific colours willvary for each individual but most people with some sight find yellowuseful.

Appendix 3: Tools

and equipment

93

Tools and equipment

It makes sense to pay a little more for stainless steel tools as theytend to cut through the soil easily, and there is less maintenance – a quick wash is all that is required.

If you already have old favourite tools but are finding it difficult to seethem, paint white onto the handles or use high visibility tape. If youhave a weak grip and find holding tools difficult, get hold of someplumbers’ insulating tubing and slide it over the tool handle for amore comfortable grip.

Keeping your tools with you while you are working and knowingwhere they are is important. One suggestion is to use a Tool Tidy.These are moulded plastic carriers that come in a range of colours,and are widely available. Choose ones that provide a good colourcontrast for you. Or wear an apron or overalls with big pockets.Secateurs can be carried in a holster that can be clipped onto a beltor pocket.

Some of the most useful tools are:

Hand tools

Peta Easi-grip tools have bright yellow and green plastic handles,stainless steel blades and their ergonomic design means less wearand tear on the wrist muscles. They produce a hand trowel, fork andmini-cultivator, and an additional support cuff can also be attached.

Peta (UK) Ltd, Mark’s Hall, Mark’s Hall Lane, Margaret Roding,Dunmow CM6 1QT Telephone: 01245 231 118 Email: [email protected]

A dibber

This narrow pointed tool is pressed into the soil to make a thinplanting hole for small bare-rooted plants and for plug plants. You might find it useful for planting in hanging baskets.

94

Tools and equipment

A short-handled rake

This is particularly useful for levelling off the soil before planting, aswell as for removing larger stones. We recommend buying one as a‘snap on’ attachment head to a multi-change tool handle.

Multi-change tools

WOLF-Garten Ltd makes a wide selection of multi-change tools.These have red and yellow plastic handles of various lengths, from16cm (6-inches) to 150cm (5-feet). Forks, trowels, rakes and hoesare available in steel or high strength lightweight plastic.

WOLF-Garten, c/o EP Barrus Ltd, Launton Road, Bicester, OxonOX26 4UR Telephone: 0845 270 7603 Email: [email protected]

Other manufacturers of interchangeable head tools are: Gardena,Fiskars and Spear and Jackson. Gardena produces a range that canbe changed with one hand.

Gardena UK Ltd, 27-28 Blezard Business Park, Brankley Way,Seaton Burn, Newcastle upon Tyne NE13 6DS Telephone: 0191 217 1537 Email: [email protected] www.gardena.co.uk

Fiskars UK Ltd, Wilkinson Sword gardening products, NewlandsAvenue, Bridgend, Glamorgan CF31 2XA Telephone: 01656 655 595Email: [email protected] www.wilkinsonswordgarden.com

Spear and Jackson, Atlas Way, Atlas North, Sheffield S4 7QQ Telephone: 0114 281 4242 Email: [email protected]

95

Tools and equipment

Onion hoe or swan-necked hoe

These are useful for weeding and again are available on a shorthandle and as a multi-change tool.

Secateurs

A good pair of secateurs will last you many years. If you do not havea strong grip, try the ratchet pruners, which, as the name suggests,work on a ratchet system to cut through even quite thick, woodymaterial easily. Darlac make a lightweight red pair.

‘Cut and hold’ secateurs are designed to hold on to the stem that hasbeen cut off. The advantage of this is that the stems can be held thendropped into a bucket or barrow rather than dropping onto theground. WOLF-Garten Ltd make a pair with red plastic handles, andDarlac also produce a selection of cut and hold secateurs, some withlong handles. Darlac make a wide range of other tools that arelightweight or adapted for people with disabilities.

Darlac Ltd, PO Box 998, Slough, Berkshire SL3 9JF Telephone: 01753 547 790 www.darlac.com

Watering

Various watering kits are available that you can set up to water yourplants in containers at different times.

Try online store Garden MagicTelephone 01902 568 066www.waterbymagic.co.uk

Tropf Blumat Watering Kits

These watering kits are ideal for containers and don’t need a powersource. Different kits can work from a mains or a standing watersource. Available from:

96

Tools and equipment

Two Wests and ElliottTelephone: 01246 451 077www.twowests.co.uk

Watering cans

Plastic types are lighter than metal, have smoother edges and areless likely to bruise your legs. Narrow-profile rectangular wateringcans can be held closer to the body than round ones, allowing betterposture and causing less strain.

NuCan make the ‘Pinpoint ‘, a smaller can holding just 1.3 litres. It isa lightweight, well-balanced blue plastic can that has a push buttonon the handle to control the flow of water by opening a valve in thespout. This reduces the amount of tipping required and hencereduces arm strain. The can is filled through a hole at the top of thehandle which has a sliding cover. The long narrow spout is ideal forreaching into pots or prickly plants. The can is very controllable foraccurate watering and is light enough to hold with one hand, leavingthe other free to find the plant or pot to be watered and check themoisture content of the soil or compost.

Nucan also make a larger can, holding 7 litres, also with valve controlin the spout. The larger can comes with short and medium spoutsand a watering rose.

NuCan Ltd, 7 Argyle Road, Newport, Isle of Wight, PO30 5SB Telephone: 01983 822 588 www.nucan.co.uk

Water-holding gel/crystals

These can be added to your hanging baskets or to containercompost to hold water and slowly release it. Most of the seedcompanies sell these in their catalogues, and you will find it at thegarden centre.

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Tools and equipment

Top tip

A tip from Norman Waddington:“Waterpax Plus are 2-in-1 water storage and plant food granulesthat come in sachets that you simply add to your hanging basketor container compost. I get these from Mastermind Products Ltd,telephone: 0151 513 5400, website www.watermate.co.uk”

Containers

Your nearest large garden centre should have a whole range of potsand containers. There are new designs coming out all the time,including self-assembly and ready-made planters for growingvegetables and flowers.

Purpose-made planters

Garden Selections offer a great range of planters for differentpurposes. These include foldaway containers in a number of shapesand sizes, made from tough woven polythene, for growingvegetables, salads, potatoes or trees. This range includes someattractive wicker edging to give a more permanent look.

Other options are sturdy wooden planters with built-in trellis orobelisk plant supports.

Garden Selections also offer various low-level raised bed kits,including the Link-a-bord kits, a woven hazel bed, and variouswooden and other designs.

All of the above are available from:

Garden Selections, Dorchester, Dorset DT2 7YGTelephone: 01305 848 725www.selections.com

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Tools and equipment

Link-a-bord kit

The Link-a-bord raised planter kit, made up of panels of recycledplastic, is also available direct from the manufacturers:

Armillatox Ltd, The Colliery Industrial Estate, Main Road, Morton,Derbyshire, UK, DE55 6HLTelephone: 01773 590 566 www.linkabord.co.uk

Grow-in-Box

This is a simple clip-together raised bed kit, from The StewartCompany, made from 100 percent recycled plastic, in black. Thecompany produce many other containers.

The Stewart Company, Stewart House, Waddon Marsh Way, PurleyWay,Croydon,Surrey,CR9 4HS

Telephone: 020 8603 5700Email: [email protected] www.stewartcompany.co.uk

Various containers are listed in:

Queenswood Gardening CatalogueTelephone: 01568 611 281www.queenswood.co.uk

Patio-Gro

This is a heavy-duty steel tiered framework supporting a dozen planttrays for displaying plants on your patio, from Marshalls.

Marshalls Orderline: 01480 443 390www.marshalls-seeds.co.uk

99

Tools and equipment

All of the following products below are available from GardenSelections:

Étagères

These are stepped wrought-iron shelves for arranging pots andcontainers. Whilst fairly expensive, they look good, can save space,and allow you to reach the plants at different levels.

Clover pots

These clover-shaped pots are designed to stack together in threes,for herbs, strawberries, tomatoes and salad leaves. In recyclableexpanded foam, each pot is 15cm (6-inches) deep and 30cm (12-inches) in diameter.

Pot stands

Pot stands can be used to lift the pot a few inches and so aiddrainage, and the taller pot stands can be used to raise individualpots or containers to the level you require.

Pot ‘trolleys’

These are strong wire or plastic trays fitted with castors, that you cansit your pots in to move them more easily.

The Plastic Pot Trolley is lipped and so can hold water for thirsty potplants. It has three wheels, one of which is braked, and holds 50kg(110-pounds) comfortably.

Garden Selections, Dorchester, Dorset DT2 7YGTelephone: 01305 848 725www.selections.com

100

Tools and equipment

Hanging baskets

These come in a huge range of materials, shapes and sizes, oftenwith replaceable liners in various materials. Garden Selections has alarge range.

The Aqua Lock hanging basket

This features a twist-lock detachable water reservoir connected to thebasket via a wick. Capillary action draws water to the plants’ roots.From Garden Selections, as before.

Easy-Fill baskets

These hanging baskets have apertures that can be raised to alloweasy planting. Available in green, terracotta or black, the baskets are35cm (14-inch) diameter size and 25cm (10-inch). (Order a minimumof six) from Mastermind Products Ltd.

Telephone: 0151 513 5400www.watermate.co.uk

Moss substitute

A sisal-based product you can use instead of moss, from GardenSelections.

Hi-Lo basket pulley

This hanging basket pulley can be used to raise or lower yourhanging basket to aid watering and maintenance. Available fromvarious sources, including:

www.gardencentre.co.ukandTwo Wests and ElliottTelephone: 01246 451 077www.twowests.co.uk

101

Tools and equipment

Wall baskets

These come in all the variety and materials of other planters andhanging baskets. They can be fixed direct to the wall, or can be fixedwith decorative brackets. See ranges from The Stewart Company, or Garden Selections.

Pot hangers

These are a variation on wall baskets, and include wrought ironpierced design wall plates with circular holders for one to three pots,or designs to disguise drainpipes. From Garden Selections, and theQueenswood Gardening Catalogue.

Sundries

All manner of sundry products are available to help you grow plantsin containers. These include: plant supports, grow-bag mats toprotect your flooring, strawberry tubs and rhubarb forcing covers.Many of the seed companies list these in their catalogues, as doGarden Selections.

Young plants

Most of the seed companies now sell a range of young ornamentaland vegetable plants, and some have a separate catalogue for these.

Dobies Orderphone: 0844 701 7625www.dobies.co.uk

Suttons Orderphone: 0844 922 0606www.suttons.co.uk

Thompson & MorganCustomer care: 0844 248 5383www.thompson-morgan.com

102

Tools and equipment

Seed sowing

A polystyrene self watering propagating modular unit with 40-cellinsert, water container, capillary matting, perspex lid and ejectorbase, makes seed sowing easier. From:

Parasene Telephone: 0121 508 6570Email: [email protected] www.parasene.com

Thrive can help you start or continue gardening when you have sightloss.

Just being in the garden can make you feel good. Gardening is alsoa great way of keeping active and can get you out and about. It canbe a very social activity whether you are chatting to neighbours overthe garden fence or joining a gardening club.

We have many useful hints and tips from other gardeners who havesight loss, opportunities for you to meet other gardeners and a widerange of other free services which are detailed below.

Thrive can send you free:

Gardening starter pack which includes seeds and is packed fullof ideas and gardening tips for spring, summer, autumn and winter.

Gardening Together guide can help you to start your own club.Thrive can also put you in contact with a blind gardeners’ club nearyour home.

Find out more about Thrive’s:

Workshops to introduce you to gardening techniques as well asadvice and support from other gardeners.

Buddy system that can put you in touch with other gardeners inyour local area who also have sight loss.

Try Thrive’s:

Gardening advice by telephone, email or post to help you withany gardening questions you may have.

103

Appendix 4:

Support from

Thrive

104

Support from Thirve

Website www.carryongardening.org.uk with easier ways to doeveryday gardening jobs, tried and tested gardening equipmentand tools for people who have sight loss.

Why not join the National Blind Gardeners’ Club?

As a member you will receive:

Come Gardening, a quarterly magazine which has interestingplant reviews, ideas for food and flower gardening, details of newtools and equipment and features on readers’ gardens and theirtop tips. This magazine is available in large print, on audio CD ortape, braille and by email.

Access to a specialist gardening library.

A regular e-newsletter with seasonal information and tips.

Great discounts on our Getting on with Gardening books.

Also available:

Getting on with Gardening books each with over 80 pages of usefultried-and-tested gardening techniques devised by people who havesight loss. There are now four volumes available including this one.

These are available in large print, on audio CD and tape, daisy audioCD and Braille. The cost per volume is just £5.00 to members and£7.50 to non members.

If you would like to order any of these items or would like moreinformation, call Thrive on 0118 988 5688 or [email protected]

Thrive’s work with people who have sight loss is a partnership projectwith RNIB supported by The National Lottery through the Big LotteryFund. This work is guided by an Advisory Committee for BlindGardeners.

Thrive

Thrive, the national charity founded in 1978, that uses gardening to change the lives of disabled people.

Telephone: 0118 988 5688Email: [email protected] www.thrive.org.uk and www.carryongardening.org.ukor write to Thrive, The Geoffrey Udall Centre, Beech Hill, Reading RG7 2AT.

Registered charity number 277570.

RNIB

RNIB is the UK’s leading charity for blind and partially sightedpeople, offering information, support and advice to almost two millionpeople with sight loss.

To find out more about a range of RNIB services, please call theRNIB helpline.

Telephone: 0303 123 9999Email: [email protected] www.rnib.org.uk or write to RNIB, 105 Judd Street, London WC1H 9NE.

Registered charity number 226227.

105

Appendix 5:

Contacts for more

information

106

Contacts for more information

Garden Organic

Coventry, Warwickshire CV8 3LG Telephone: 024 7630 3517 Email: [email protected]

Garden Organic also produce the Organic Gardening Catalogue withChase Organics.

Chase Organics

Riverdene, Molesey Road, Hersham, Surrey KT12 4RG. Telephone: 0845 130 1304 www.organiccatalogue.com

Gardening Which?

Castlemead, Gascoyne Way, Hereford SG14 1LH Telephone: 01992 822 800 Email: [email protected]

The Royal Horticultural Society

80 Vincent Square, London SW1P 2PE Telephone: 0845 260 5000 Email: [email protected]

108

Thrive registered charity number 277570 RNIB registered charity number 226227

With thanks to members of the National Blind Gardeners’Club for their tips.

Editors Val George and Wendy Chamberlain © Thrive and RNIB March 2010

Thrive is grateful to everyone involved in providingphotographs for this book, including CarolineNieuwenhuys and Wendy Chamberlain.

This guide is also available in large print, braille, audioCD and DAISY CD. To order copies in alternative formats,please contact Thrive. Telephone 0118 988 5688 or [email protected]

Documents

Getting on with growing in containers - Thrive...Recycled ideas include: old butlers sinks, old tin baths, chimney pots, buckets, watering cans, old boots, basins, kettles and pans