GardenChatter

The Official Publication of Laclede County Master Gardeners

22

Laclede County Master

Gardeners 186 N. Adams Ave. Lebanon

Ph. 532-7126

President

Ronna Ford– 417-476-3048

ronna@ronnaford.com.

Vice President

Dixie Krisher

Dixdon1@yahoo.com

Secretary

Barbara Thompson

417-533-8148

Treasurer

Glennie Kinnett

Newsletter Editor

Robert “Bob” Smith III, 417-532-5783

onevol90@gmail.com

Master Gardeners of Laclede County

186-D N. Adams Ave.

Lebanon, Missouri 65536

Phone: 417-532-7126 •

Fax: 417-532-4587

University of Missouri Extension does not

discriminate on the basis of race, color,

national origin, sex, religion, age, disability or

status as a Vietnam-era veteran in

employment or programs.

March - 2018

HOW YOU CAN REMOVE

MOLES FROM YOUR YARD

Many pests exist out there that cause problems for your

house or yard. Ants, rats, spiders – they can pop up without

warning, leaving you to deal with their removal or

extermination. One such problem you may encounter is a

yard mole. Most don’t even think of these creatures when

imagining a pest in their yard, but the problem is real.

Moles are small, furry animals that spend their time

underground. Their large forearms are ideal for digging

through the dirt where they burrow, eat earthworms, and

stay mostly out of sight. The issues you go through in

regards to a mole in your yard are sometimes mild, but

sometimes severe. Luckily, there are ways to get rid of the

animal. Table of Contents Signs That You’ve Got a Mole in

Your Yard Get Them Out of the Garden Controlling Moles

The Best Way to Remove Yard Moles Signs That You’ve

Got a Mole in Your Yard Everyone has heard the saying

“Don’t make a mountain out of a mole hill.” Mole hills are a

telltale sign that you’ve got the creatures in your yard.

When Moles burrow, they use their large paws to dig out so

much dirt that it piles up outside the hole. Mounds will also

appear over the burrow from the displaced soil. What

brings them here in the first place? Moles love to eat

earthworms. If your yard has an abundance of those, you’ll

be more likely to attract a mole. Other things that attract

moles include: Moist soil. Loose dirt that’s easy to dig

through. All sorts of insects, including larvae, beetles,

crickets, and grubs. When they’re in your lawn When moles

have invaded your lawn, you’ll be able to tell. Mounds of

dirt are left behind when a mole digs beneath the surface

and displaces the soil, breaking apart your grass and

ruining the roots. You might even notice long lines of dirt,

which are the evidence of moles making tunnels to travel

through. Moles can dig eighteen feet in a single day.

. Mole Damage Besides ruining your lawn, moles can also destroy trees. Although they don’t

eat the tree roots, they do disturb the soil around the tree enough to kill them off, resulting in

tree damage or death. Get Them Out of the Garden Moles don’t like vegetables, flowers, or

fruits, so they don’t invade your garden to get at any of your beautiful plants. But because of

their subterranean behaviors, they’ll cause indirect damage that will kill off the garden you’ve

worked so hard on. Ways that moles can ruin your garden include: Destroying the plant roots

underground. The mounds of dirt moles create from their burrowing can collapse inward,

resulting in a hole or dip in the ground, taking plant life with it. Crawling over flower beds or

vegetable plants and trampling them. Moles and other underground pests are so irritating,

why capture them when you can kill? For more details on how to kill moles, go here. Keeping

moles away from your lawn Do you want a way to keep moles from even getting into your

lawn in the first place? There are some tried and tested ways that people use to repel these

pests from even trying to dig up your lawn from the start: Cat litter: For some reason, moles

don’t like cat litter, whether it be the scent or perhaps an accidental taste of it. Pour the litter

into any mole holes you find, and the idea is that they’ll move on to another area. Blood meal:

This product is a deterrent to moles, but great for your yard! Sprinkle the dried blood meal all

around the mole hills, mixing it into the soil, and make sure to re-apply after a rain. Castor Oil:

Moles don’t like castor oil. To use it against them, put some in a spray bottle and mix with

water, then spray all around any mole activity in your yard or garden. Using a shovel, stir the

dirt around and spray the castor oil mixture in with it to try and get the oil deeper into the

ground. For more information click here. Cayenne pepper: This spice is unpleasant to many

animals and insects, including moles. Mix some with water and liberally spray around your

lawn and all around any dirt mounds the moles have created. As for your garden, be careful

to avoid getting too much on your plants, as a concentrated amount of cayenne might hurt

them. Warning Watch your pets, especially dogs, when handling mole removal. Dogs can dig

up the dirt and get caught in a mole trap, or maybe ingest some of the mole poison. Try and

keep your beloved pets away from anything that can hurt them until the mole problem is taken

care of. When they invade your backyard When you’ve got moles invading your yard, you’ve

got more than option available to you. Not only can you try and persuade these animals to go

off somewhere else, you can also trap them, and kill them. Whichever one is up to you, but

make sure to do research and learn that facts about each option. How do I get these pests to

stop digging? The gigantic paws on a mole help it to almost swim through the dirt

underground. Because the root of the problem with them is all based on them digging, one

way to solve the issue is to somehow make them give up the digging, at least in your yard.

One way to stop moles from digging is through a barrier. You can dig a deep trench around

your garden and fill it with gravel, then bury dirt over the top of it. Moles won’t want to go

through that gravel barrier and will turn around. You can also shove wire mesh or chicken

wire into the ground to act as a barrier. Controlling Moles Sometimes, using household items

to combat your mole problems isn’t good enough. If that’s the case, it’s time to get more

serious. A humane way to go about capturing moles If the creatures won’t leave your yard

alone, it might time to capture them. By getting a hold of the mole, you can then bring it

somewhere else and release it into the wild, perhaps to an open field or forested area. Moles

are similar to a rat in size. Some products to keep in mind when you want to capture a mole: Capture

and release mole traps: These traps don’t kill the animal, instead allowing you to catch it for transport

to another area. Some look like a cylinder, while others are more box-like, but all use the same trick –

a trapdoor that only opens one way. While the mole can easily get inside it, there’s no way to get

back out again. Stick the contraption into one of the mole holes and wait for it to crawl inside. Quick

Setup A bucket: Locate one of the mole tunnels, then dig down deep into the ground right in the

middle of it. Bury a bucket in the hole, then cave in the tunnels on either side of the bucket. This will

trigger the mole to dig through that caved-in dirt and break through right into where the bucket is set.

The goal is that the animal will fall into the bucket and be unable to get out. Make sure to cover the

top of the tunnel you’ve disturbed with some plywood or other material, otherwise the mole won’t want

to dig there anymore. Flooding: Take a hose and stick into the opening of a mole hill. Slowly begin to

fill the mole tunnels with water. Keep an eye on the other mole hills in your yard and watch for when

the animal will escape out of one. Once one appears, snatch it up quickly and put it in a bucket it can’t

get out of. Capturing moles doesn’t have to be an all-day event and is easier than you may think.

Click here for more information on catching moles. What to do when you need to exterminate them

Moles are like any other pest that needs to be taken care of, which means that sometimes they must

be killed instead of just removed. And there are many different products on the market that can help

you with it: Spring loaded traps: Sort of like a mouse trap, these devices are made in different ways

but all result in the same thing – killing the mole. You place them either inside a mole tunnel or on the

ground just outside one, and wait for the trap to be triggered. Spike traps: Similar to the spring loaded

traps, these are also triggered by the mole’s movement, but use spikes that stab the mole instead of

crushing it. Poison: There are different kinds of poisons you can set out in the yard or directly into a

mole hill. For example, there are fake earthworms you can buy that are tasty to moles, yet full of

poison. Although there are many lethal ways to get rid of moles, some people only want to do it the

natural way. Click here for more information on getting rid of moles naturally. Is there a mole removal

service I can call? If you’ve got a mole problem and don’t want to go through the hassle of dealing

with it yourself, there are services you can call. Pest control companies routinely do mole removal,

and there are even companies devoted solely to controlling animals like moles and gophers. A simple

internet search will bring up a list of specialists in your area. Information Sometimes you’re not

dealing with as many or as little moles as you think. A bunch of mole hills in your yard can be the

work of one mole, or the work of several. In general, they aren’t social creatures, so if there is more

than one, they’ll be spread out over the yard and not congregated into masses. Something good

about moles is that their numbers are far fewer than other pests like insects. The Best Way to

Remove Yard Moles If you’re looking for not just a good way to remove moles, but the best way to

remove them, it just depends on what you want. If it’s a humane option you’re seeking, go with the

catch and release traps. These may take a little more effort on your part, but you won’t need to kill the

animal. For the quickest way, a lethal trap is most likely going to do the job. If cost is your main

concern, go with a buried bucket. Moles might be furry and adorable, but they sure are annoying. The

havoc they churn up underground doesn’t just churn up your lawn, it can destroy your garden and

even take down small trees – their presence isn’t something you want to deal with for long. Choose a

removal method, put it into play, and get rid of those underground pests for good. It’s time to take

your yard back.

Read more: http://pestkill.org/moles/in-your-yard/

Gardening by Month - March Monthly Tips and Tasks

Category

Week

Activity

1 2 3 4

Houseplants x x x x

Two handsome houseplants that provide fragrant blossoms indoors this month are the Confederate jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides) and Japanese pittosporum (Pittosporum tobira). Both thrive in average home conditions and are easy plants to grow.

x x x x As day lengths increase, plants begin new growth. Repot rootbound plants, moving them to containers 2 inches larger in diameter than their current pot. Check for insect activity and apply controls as needed. Leggy plants may be pruned now.

Ornamentals x x x x Trees, shrubs and perennials may be planted as soon as they become available at local nurseries.

x x x x To control iris borer, clean up and destroy the old foliage before new growth begins.

x x x x Fertilize bulbs with a "bulb booster" formulation broadcast over the planting beds. Hose off any granules that stick to the foliage.

x x x x Dormant mail order plants should be unwrapped immediately. Keep the roots from drying out, store in a cool protected spot, and plant as soon as conditions allow.

x x x x Loosen winter mulches from perennials cautiously. Re-cover plants at night if frost returns. Clean up beds by removing all weeds and dead foliage at this time.

x x Heavy pruning of trees should be complete before growth occurs. Trees should not be pruned while the new leaves are growing.

x x Seeds of hardy annuals such as larkspur, bachelor's buttons, Shirley and California poppies should be direct sown in the garden now.

x x x Summer and fall blooming perennials should be divided in spring.

x x Ornamental grasses should be cut to the ground just as the new growth begins.

x x Spring bedding plants, such as pansies and toadflax (Linaria sp.), may be planted outdoors now.

x x Apply a balanced fertilizer such as 6-12-12 to perennial beds when new growth appears.

x x Apply sulfur to the soils around acid-loving plants such as azaleas, rhododendrons, hollies and dogwoods. Use a granular formulation at the rate of 1/2 pound per 100 square feet.

x Gradually start to pull back mulch from rose bushes.

Lawns x x x x Mow lawns low to remove old growth before new growth begins.

x x x Apply broadleaf herbicides now for control of cool-season perennial and annual weeds. These must not be applied to areas that will be seeded soon.

x Apply controls for wild garlic. It will take several years of annual applications for complete control.

x x Thin spots and bare patches in the lawn can be overseeded now.

Category

Week

Activity

Vegetables x x x x Any root crops such as horseradish, parsnips, Jerusalem artichokes, or carrots still in the ground from last year should be harvested before new green top growth appears.

x x x x Cultivate weeds and remove the old, dead stalks of last year's growth from the asparagus bed before the new spears emerge.

x x x x Fertilize the garden as the soil is being prepared for planting. Unless directed otherwise by a soil test, 1 to 2 pounds of 12-12-12 or an equivalent fertilizer per 100 square feet is usually sufficient.

x x Delay planting if the garden soil is too wet. When a ball of soil crumbles easily after being squeezed together in your hand, it is dry enough to be safely worked.

x x Asparagus and rhubarb roots should be planted as soon as the ground can be worked.

x x x Plant peas, lettuce, radishes, kohlrabi, mustard greens, collards, turnips, Irish potatoes, spinach and onions (seeds and sets) outdoors.

x x Plant beets, carrots, parsley and parsnip seeds outdoors.

x x Set out broccoli, cabbage, Brussels sprouts, Chinese cabbage and cauliflower transplants into the garden.

x Start seeds of tomatoes, peppers and eggplants indoors.

Fruits x x x x Gradually remove mulch from strawberries as the weather begins to warm.

x x x Continue pruning apple trees. Burn or destroy all prunings to minimize insect or disease occurrence.

x x Continue pruning grapes. Bleeding causes no injury to the vines. Tie vines to the trellis before the buds swell to prevent bud injury and crop loss.

x Cleft and splice grafting can be done now. This must be completed before rootstocks break dormancy.

x x Aphids begin to hatch on fruit trees as the buds begin to open.

x x Apply dormant oil sprays now. Choose a dry day when freezing temperatures are not expected.

x x Spray peach trees with a fungicide for the control of peach leaf curl disease.

x Mulch all bramble fruits for weed control.

x Peaches and nectarines should be pruned just before they bloom.

Miscellaneous x Red maples begin to bloom.

x Set up nesting boxes for bluebirds.

x Watch for the harbinger of spring (Erigenia bulbosa) blooming in rich wooded areas.

x x x Spicebush is blooming in moist woodlands.

x Raise purple martin houses this week.

x Purple martins return to the St. Louis area.

x The white flowers of serviceberry (Amelanchier sp.) and wild plum (Prunus americana) are showy in wooded areas.

Category

Week

Activity

x Watch for the fuzzy blooms of the pussy willow (Salixsp.).

March Pests and Problems

Spray to control lawn weeds such as chickweed and dandelion now when they are growing actively.

Winter Annual Weeds

Common chickweed (Stellaria media)--also called, Alsine media, starwort,

starweed, bindweed, winterweed, satin flower, tongue-grass--can be a pest of the

lawn or garden

Winter Annual Weeds

Henbit (Lamium amplexicaule)--also called, dead nettle, blind nettle, bee nettle--can be a pest of the lawn or

garden

Perennial Broadleaf Weeds in

Lawns Dandelion in bloom, a common

perennial weed in lawns and gardens

Apply crabgrass preventor between mid-March to mid-April or about the time forsythia is

blooming. If you decide to use a weed and feed product, do not use a fertilizer high in nitrogen.

If not already done, remove and dispose of the foliage of plants such as roses, peonies, iris, daylilies, apples, and horsechestnut, which are subject to annual fungal leaf diseases.

Black Spot of Rose

Yellowing rose (Rosa) leaves with black spots are characteristic of black spot of rose

Peony Blotch

Peony blotch on peony (Paeonia)

10 SEED STARTING TIPS YOU NEED TO KNOW

Whether you’re a pro gardener or you’re just starting out, these 10 seed starting tips will surely help you grow a better,

more bountiful garden. Before anything can grow successfully, you must first take very good care of your seeds and

seedlings. After all, the seed is the beginning of everything! These seed starting tips will ensure that whatever crop you

wish to grow will do so in a quick and healthy

way.

#1. KEEP RECORDS

In order to grow a successful garden, you need to

get into the habit of record keeping. This means

grabbing a journal or an online notepad and

writing down what you planted, at what time,

when it was harvested, what went wrong, and

what went right. Keep a journal like this will help

you to grow better next time around, and also

teach you about planting times, what may have

worked, and what may have not worked. That

way, you won’t repeat the same mistakes.

#2. STORE PROPERLY

Store your seeds properly. If not, you risk contaminating your seeds as well as completely ruining them. Seeds do well

when they’re store in a dark, cool place. If you live in a warm climate, you can also store your seeds in the freezer. Make

sure that your seeds are also stored in an airtight container or a Ziploc bag. To see if a seed is still viable, soak them in

water for a few hours. The good seeds will sink, while the bad seeds will float.

#3. AVOID OVERCROWDING It’s very important not to over-crowd your seeds – this growing time is crucial for healthy growth. Use wide, flat

containers that have good drainage for best growth.

#4. TAMP SEEDS DOWN

When planting, each seeds must be in firm contact with the moist surface of the soil in order to begin germinating. Use a

kitchen sieve to spread soil-less seed starting mix evenly on top of the seeds. Then, gently tamp down the surface of the

soil using a flat bottom bowl, glass, or pestle.

#5. PREVENT DISEASE

Your seeds can actually get a fungal infection which is caused by excessive moisture and poor air circulation. Promote

good air circulation by placing a small fan near your seedlings. Set it to low to encourage good air flow. To avoid excess

moisture, spread a thin layer of 50% milled sphagnum and 50% starter chicken grit over the surface of the soil.

#6. COVER TRAYS WITH PLASTIC

WRAP

Covering the trays with plastic wrap will keep the

moisture level constant. Seedlings can be very

sensitive to over-watering or under-watering, and so

by placing plastic wrap over, you can make sure that

your seedlings and their soil are always moist.

#7. KEEP SEEDS WARM

Keep seeds warm to encourage germination. Most

seeds require a temperature of at least 65-75F to

germinate successfully. Place seeds near a warm, sunny spot, or use a space heater. Be sure to check the soil moisture

though, as warmer spots tend to dry out the soil much quicker.

#8. TURN SEEDLINGS DAILY

To make sure your seedlings get an even dose of sunshine, turn your seedling containers every day. Place the seedling

container in a sunny, south-facing window, but make sure to turn the container daily.

#9. FEED YOUR SEEDLINGS

In order for your seedlings to grow healthy, you’ll need to feed them. Most seed starting kits already come with a little

nutrient package, so make sure to follow the directions properly. Once your seedlings have grown, fertilize once a week

until growth is complete.

#10. ACCLIMATE SEEDLINGS

Before seedlings can be transplanted to direct sunlight, they need to be acclimated, or hardened off. Do this over a three

day period by placing them in direct sunlight during the morning on the first day, then increasing their time outside by a

few hours each day. This will give them time to get used to strong sunlight and prevent dryness.

Happy Planting!

Good fences make good neighbors

Missouri's purple paint statute

The purple paint statute (Section 569.145 of the Revised Statutes of Missouri) allows Missouri landowners to mark trees or posts with purple paint as a warning to would-be trespassers. It fulfills the same function as a “no trespassing” sign, a fence, or telling someone not to come onto your property. Since they can’t be taken down, destroyed or stolen, purple paint marks are cheaper and more economical to maintain.

The law does not require that property marked with the purple paint also be fenced; unless, of course, you or your neighbor(s) raise livestock along the property line(s) in question.

Under Missouri’s law:

• Any owner or lessee of real property can post property with the purple paint marks. • Purple paint marks must be placed on either trees or posts (the statute does not

specifically allow the option of placing paint marks on buildings). • Vertical paint lines must be at least 8 inches long (the statute does not mention a

maximum length). • The bottom edge of each paint mark must be between 3 and 5 feet off the ground. • Paint marks must be readily visible to any person approaching the property. • Purple paint marks cannot be more than 100 feet apart.

The statute provides that any person trespassing onto property marked by purple paint can be found guilty of a first-degree trespassing charge. Any unauthorized entry onto property marked with the purple paint is considered a trespass. First-degree trespassing is a Class B Misdemeanor, with potential punishment of a maximum $500 fine and/or a maximum of 6 months in jail.

Other violations which would subject a trespasser to first-degree trespass are (1) entering a property posted with “no trespassing” signs, (2) refusing to leave property once told to do so, and (3) coming onto land fenced against intruders.

Landowners can purchase purple boundary posting paint at hardware stores across the state. Several paint companies have formulated a latex semi-paste product for the specific purpose of marking property. The paint can be applied in semi-paste form or sprayed once thinned.

http://oldeamericaantiques.com/catalog/fred-burr-seeds-1897-p-4257.html?cPath=30_48

Common Spiders of Missouri: Identification, Benefits, and Concerns

Introduction

While many people have "Arachnophobia" (an instinctive or learned fear of spiders), the vast majority of arachnids are actually harmless to us. Spiders are very sensitive to vibration and their first instinct is typical ly to run and hide when disturbed. The majority of accidental bites occur when spiders in clothing or shoes are squished by the wearer. Usually, this only results in temporary redness and itching. Only two species of spider in Missouri are considered medically significant: the brown recluse and female "black widow."

True spiders are members of the order Araneae. They have 8 walking legs with tiny retractable claws on each foot. Most have a cluster of 6-8 eyes on the top of their head. These eyes provide them with great depth perception since they combine multiple layers of vision into one–like 3D glasses. Orb weavers build elaborate hanging webs with sticky silk. However, not all spiders build traditional webs, some are opportunistic ambush predators. They sometimes make "web carpet" security systems with vibration alarm "trip wires." Sitting quietly on the silk–their body, covered in sensitive hairs, tells them when a potential meal is walking by.

Benefits

Spiders are beneficial because they feed on many common insect pests including aphids, caterpillars, leafhoppers, grasshoppers, mosquitoes, and flies. A recent study estimated arachnids consume 400-800 million metric tons of prey each year and over 90% of that biomass is invertebrates. According to Lund University, "Spiders eat more insects than people eat meat and fish." Without these important biological control agents, pest numbers would increase exponentially.

Harvestmen (Leiobunum spp.) Photo credit: Edward L. Manigault, Clemson University Donated Collection, Bugwood.org

"Daddy Long-Legs"One of the

most easily recognized "spiders" is the "daddy longlegs" or "harvestman" (Leiobunum ventricosum). Contrary to popular myth, "daddy longlegs" have no venom and no fangs, nor can they produce silk! In fact, the harvestman has only one body segment, instead of two, so it's not a "true spider" at all. They belong to the order Opiliones, not Araneae. They are omnivorous scavengers that feed on decaying

organic matter or small insects. People often handle daddy longlegs with their bare hands, knowing they are completely harmless.

Common Missouri Spiders

Common house spiders (Parasteatoda tepidariorum), cellar spiders (Pholcus spp.), crab spiders (Xysticus spp.), and yellow garden spiders (Argiope aurantia) are frequently seen in gardens or residential areas. While the common house spiders may look scary with a body shape similar to the infamous black widow, its grey coloration, white marbling and banded legs make it easy to distinguish. It feeds on flies, crickets, wood louse, and other household pests. Cellar spiders have tiny tan bodies, long hair -like legs, and black-spotted knees. Often, they are seen hanging from loose strands of silk on the ceiling--waiting to catch a house fly. Crab spiders have a unique ability to change color like an octopus –camouflaging themselves to blend in with flower petals as they await their next meal. The yellow garden spider is perhaps the largest and most beautiful orb weaver in the state. Females with striking yellow, black, and blue coloration are easily spotted resting in the center of their giant we

b.

LEFT American house spider (Parasteatoda tepidariorum, formerly known as Achaearanea tepidariorum). Photo credit:

Joseph Berger, Bugwood.org. RIGHT Cellar spiders (Pholcus spp). Photo credit: Joseph Berger, Bugwood.org.

spider (Argiope aurantia). Photo credit: David Cappaert, Bugwood.org. LEFT Ground crab spiders (Xysticus spp.) Photo

credit: Joseph Berger, Bugwood.org RIGHT Yellow garden

Daring jumping spider (Phidippus audax). Photo credit: Joseph Berger, Bugwood.org.

Wolf spider (Rabidosa rabida). Photo credit: Karan A. Rawlins, University of Georgia, Bugwood.org.

The Missouri Tarantula (Aphonopelma hentzi), also known as Texas Brown, is the only tarantula species inhabiting

Missouri. Photo credit: Jon Hill.

Ambush Spiders

Common species of spiders that ambush their prey include jumping spiders, wolf -spiders, and the Missouri tarantula. Adult jumping spiders are typically black in color and 1 inch (2.54 cm) in length. They have green pedipalps and a white patterned abdomen that resembles a face. As the name implies, they can "jump" (up to 50 times their body length!).

Spiders from the "wolf" family (Lycosidae) received their name because they are frequently seen prowling the ground in search of bugs to eat. They can attain sizable leg spans of 4 inches (or more) and are often mistaken for tarantulas.

There is one species of tarantula found in Missouri, Aphonopelma hentzi. It is brown in color, lives in burrows, and grows to leg spans of 6 inches. A docile new world species found in the Ozarks (southern Missouri), it poses no harm to humans. If provoked to bite, it would only hurt like bee sting. Nobody in history has ever died from a tarantula bite.

Brown recluse (Loxosceles reclusa). Photo credit: Lisa Ames, University of Georgia, Bugwood.org.

Brown Recluse

Loxosceles reclusa is commonly found throughout Missouri. It's called the "brown recluse" for obvious reasons and most easily recognized by the distinct violin shaped marking on its carapace. Although this spider has received a lot of negative publicity for having necrotic venom that "rots flesh"–bites from this species are very rare. Only 10% of brown recluse bites are medically significant. About 90% heal on their own.

Black widow (Latrodectus mactans). Photo credit: Clemson University - USDA Cooperative Extension Slide Series,

Bugwood.org.

Black widow

There are multiple species of black widow spiders in the U.S. This spider is regarded as the most venomous spider in North America. Females are easily recognized by the ir black color, large abdomen, and a red hourglass pattern underneath. They build loose, scraggly webs in sheltered places that look like a tangled ball of yarn. While accidental bites may be very painful and require medical attention, nobody has ever died from a North American black widow.

Conclusion

While they are often demonized and misunderstood, arachnids certainly benefit us in many ways. For instance, they serve a vital role in the environment by consuming a large number of insects they prey on, including a number of pest species. While many people respond with fear at the sight of a spider, understanding that the vast majority of them are harmless and actually beneficial may help us gain a new appreciation for them.

Recipe

of the

Month

Ingredients

• 1 1/2 lbs ground beef

• 3/4 cup onion, diced

• 1 bell pepper, diced

• 1 taco seasoning packet

• 1/2 cup sour cream

• 1/2 cup mayonnaise

• 1 cup cheddar cheese, shredded & divided

• 1 sm. can (4 oz) diced green chilies

• 1 (10 oz) can Rotel diced tomatoes

• with green chilies

• 2 cups Bisquick

• 1 1/4 cup water, divided

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Instructions

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1. Pre-heat oven to 350 degrees F.

2. Brown ground beef, drain off grease. Add in diced onion, bell pepper, taco seasoning and 1/2 cup of the

water to pan. Simmer approximately 10 minutes until onion & pepper are softened.

3. In separate bowl, combine sour cream, mayonnaise, 1/2 cup cheddar cheese and green chilies, set

aside.

4. Stir Bisquick and 3/4 cup water (you may need a tiny bit more water) to make a soft dough. Spray

13X9 baking pan with non-stick spray. Press dough into bottom of pan and bake 5 minutes.

5. On top of biscuit layer, spread ground beef mixture, next add can of Rotel spreading over ground beef

mixture, next spread the sour cream mixture and end with remaining shredded cheese sprinkled over

the top.

6. Bake 30 minutes.