GAOLIGONSHAN YUNNAN BOTANY EXPEDITION 2018 PART 3

First bend of the Nu Jiang, Lisu couple, open food market in Bingzhongluo

Top: route from Baoshan up the Nu River; Middle d route up Nu River to Bingzhongluo; Bottom. Trail and cross country route from Bingzhongluo up unnamed tributary into Nianwuluo River, then lake at base of Gawagebo, then back out via the Nianwuluo River to the Nu River

DAY1 June 13, 2018, Early morning we gathered our equipment and food supplies for the short drive to the village above Bingzhongluo at the eastern base of Gaoligongshan called Xiao Chala. Here Adrian and our Chinese guide Edward recruited 10 porters they knew from a previous trip from Lisu, Nu and Dulong families to guide and take us for a week into the heart of Gaoligong’s northern wilderness. Our 15-member team gathered at the trailhead and sorted our packs while the muleteer packed several mules to carry our gear up the steep trail for the first two days. Mules would not be able to make the mountain passes and terrain we would climb through the next week.

Nu Jiang (River) DuLong village

Nu River zipline, Brewing barley wine, Dulong homes with slate roof, Village of Xiao Chala start of the trail, packing up mules, and loading gear for porters, lisu crossbow

This area, as much of the mountain villages along Gaoligong is a very poor with dim prospects educationally, socially and economically. Alcohol abuse is widespread. Joseph Rock in his 1926 National Geographic article, Through the Great River Trenches of Asia, noted the habitual drunkenness of the Nu people. Only the Protestant churches in the communities have worked

to help villagers overcome it. We were thankful to have these excellent guides with us as they shouldered their 35 kilo loads with a great positive attitude. Only a few drank. It was raining as our 10 Lisu, Nu, and Dulong porters headed up the steep trail. It began wide but full of mud since used by yak herders for bringing their livestock to the pastures above. We ascended through a wonderful forest of ancient subtropical trees that included oaks and legumes and filled with birdsong. We passed along bloomed-out iris, head-high lilies with white trumpet flowers Cardiacarum gigantica, the vine clematis with white flowers, and smaller magnolia trees with large white cupped flowers. The river was raging at high water from the heavy rain; everything dripping wet. I was glad Adrian recommended we wore gaiters, both to keep the deep mud out of our boots and to discourage leeches. I intensely dislike these invasive creatures, that work their way up your boot and into your pantlegs, socks, whatever crevice they find to suck your blood, undetected until they detach, leaving a pool of blood wherever they let go: between toes, crotch, armpits, back of your neck. One must be vigilant. But I used the lisu method of leech control, pouring salt into my socks, boots and pants. And I was in full raingear, with gaiters tightly covering any pant separation from my socks.

The rain continued all day and after 10 hours of steep climbing, soaked from the thighs down, the trail leveled out for a short distance where we made our camp in a very small yak clearing by the roaring river. It now began to pour as they set up a large plastic tarp where they would sleep and build a fire. With their long knives and machete staves, some of the porters cleared

Clematis sp, Magnolia sp, Giant trumpet lily Cardiacarum gigantica

out flat spots for tents while we helped others gather wet rhododendron and fir tree wood. They chopped away at the wet logs removing the soaked outer wood and using the dry inner pieces for fuel and the chips for kindling. They got a smoky fire going that took another 15 minutes before it finally blazed giving off heat.

The fire was smoking from wet wood but hot, while two of our porters mixed flour and water in a pot, then prepared a stack of flattened plate sized dough called baba that was then fried in pig fat over a griddle. A large pot of soup of pork and pork fat, rice, wild mushrooms, and Solomon seal herbs began simmering between to logs carefully placed in the fire. The grease from the fatty soup filled the surface, but when boiled for a half hour, it was finally served as we warmed by the fire and sheltered under the tarp in a strong drizzle in fading light. It soup was delicious and warming and I mixed the baba into the hot pork fat soup. Some of the porters drank and brought out a plastic jug of baijiu, a home-brewed 120 proof throat burning liquor. I passed on this but others in our group imbibed fueling their stomachs with fire. After the meal some porters lit up cigarettes, sitting and sharing stories sitting at the edge of the large smoke-filled tarp while the fire faded into flickering flames.

Headed to my tent and crawled under the soaked fly and sat at the entrance. Everything wet and difficult to unpack my dry bag of gear inside my tent fly, but good to be warmed up. Once in the tent I read the entire book of Hebrews by headlamp, watching water trickle in on one corner of the tent. By morning I found the foot of my sleeping bag soaked as the rain fly stakes got pulled out by the wandering mules looking for grass in the night.

Continued to rain our second day as I awoke listening to the continued drizzle pounding on the tent rainfly. This became a routine for the next few weeks. After rereading the book of Hebrews, I began my ritual by deflating the air mattress, exited and rolled up sleeping bag with soaked foot stuffed in the stuff sack last, put on pants, then wet socks, then rain pants and fleece shirt. After packing up the dry bag with gear, and securing cameras in dry bags in my pack, I put on my boots from the tent door, then zipped up the mud caked gaiters. Before emerging from the tent, I put on my excellent rain park that kept me dry now ready for a new day.

The porters had a fire going and within a half hour we shared Tibetan yak tea mixed with yak butter and fat, then had porridge. Now fueled and ready to begin to ascend another 800 meters (2650 feet) to the headwaters and yak meadows camp. Temporarily saw the sharp peaks for the first time across the river as mist and heavy rain moved in just as we broke camp. Everything soaked in a very wet rain as the porters loaded their heavy 30 kg baskets with head

tumplines. It wasn’t cold at this elevation, so hiked in a t shirt and rain parka. The trail continued to follow closely to the raging and swollen river, but I found the cascading roar of water to be relaxing, thankful to be away from the city and enjoy the music of bird song and water.

More flowers now encountered on the trail, and one of the most spectacular being Rosa heleneae, a vigorous climber with creamy yellow flowers and highly scented. And there were white and yellow lavender primulas, yellow corydallis, Bear’s breeches Acanthas, trees with yellow flowers as we followed the trail next to the river boiling through giant boulders and giant veins of granite. Multiple waterfalls surrounded us from the mist hidden cliffs above. Saw lily Nemancharis with large slightly pink

flowers. The foliage soon became all-embracing, pristine and the surroundings lacking all sign of people or cultivation. There were Magnolia globose trees, and Rhododendrons Rhododendron nuttalli and lindlyii, all epiphytic growing high up in the trees above. At ground level was a myriad of different Arisaema, similar to skunk cabbage in my home in Washington state but Asiatic species called cobra lilies or jack-in-the-pulpit; more primulas and Pleiones a small group of bright pink orchids. And there were large old growth maples, oaks, and hemlock, some with diameters up to 2.5 meters (8.3 feet). After another 7-hour day, we finally arrived at our camp at the end of a glacial valley in a beautiful spot the locals call Gan Ji Tong or 'Yak Meadow Mountain' Yak at 3375 meters (11181 feet). It continued to rain, with a wind gusting through the alpine valley as there was no protection in the meadows, only a few scattered fir (Abies spp.) and spruce Picea georgii. The forest had been cut over the years by yak herders. Here we discovered in the grass covered meadows only a few small purple rhododendrons R calostrotum crassum and small fields of Primula agleniana with beautiful porcelain white and sometimes a delicate pink flower that are highly scented that seemed to envelop the whole valley. Yaks have over the decades overgrazed this area, and trees have been cut for firewood and shelters in order to expand the meadows. I was surprised impacts from ethnic yak herders are seen even this far up the valley. Waterfalls surrounded us, and the peaks remained hidden as camp was set up. I am continually amazed at the ingenuity of the hill tribe porters, and they again started a fire with true fir wood (Abies spp.) that was soaked from rain, yet had enough pitch in the wood to ignite fuel a fire. Another wet night but spirits still high as tomorrow we would ascend the pass above us and enter into flowering rhododendron forests and meadows.

Day 2 yak camp at 3375 meters where several yak herders were staying from the village below.

Day 3 June 15 Rained off and on all night and today we would ascend the steep slope to cross our first pass at 3975 meters (13170 feet). Beautiful stands of rhododendrons on top with yellow, pink and white colored flowers. There was a small ground hugging R forrestii var repens with typically a single red flower, many poking through the snow, R sanguineum with red to deep maroon flowers, and R mekongense a pale yellow. Both these Rhododendrons we would see for the majority of the trek but each species had a wide variability in color. There were yellow primulas and meadows of grass, then the amazing slopes and ridges that followed into the next valley of solid pink and white flowered Rhododendron oreotrophes.

Walking through shifting mist that would expose then close up nearby forests below, we descended the steep fir and rhododendron sections on the other side. Passed through carpets of low growing red primulas, then into a steep forest with yellow flowered rhododendrons. Heard so many birds calls I couldn’t identify, but did ID several finches, and a Gould’s sunbird

Campsite at remote small bog day3

displaying on a young fir tree. Fog enveloped the mountain and we carefully descended an old and narrow hunters trail through the rhododendron thickets covered by old fir trees. A yellow headed bird with red breast and forked tail flew by, a flycatcher or fire tailed sunbird, not sure. We came to a steep snow chute that was almost melted and followed a steep cascading stream that was soft, giving way making the descent very difficult and hard on the knees. All of us slipped and fell several times until we reached a moss-covered bog with bamboo thickets interspersed with rhododendrons. It was a pleasant but wet setting, and our feet were soaked through gortex boots. Our campsite is at the edge of a bog, and standing on the wet moss, water surfaced and we knew this would be a very wet night yet again. Used tarps to put under our wet tents to slow down the water seeping at the surface, and it continued to still rain lightly all evening, filled with swarms of biting and small midges or gnats. Glad to rest from the difficult descent and now at 3250 meters (10,767 feet). Day 4 Fourth day of rain and discouraged as everything soaked making packing and stuffing wet tents into wet bags difficult. Our hiking shoes never dry out but I start out with semi dry socks worn all night in my sleeping bag to mitigate the water-soaked foot of the bag. Our goal today is to reach an alpine lake on the backside of Gawagebo at 3750 meters (12423 feet) by ascending the raging and swollen stream, then cross to a ridge and meadows to the lake outlet. This was the turning point of the trip as we would either proceed or turn back if we could not cross this swollen stream. Porters led the way with heavy loads with all of us falling many times on the steep slope, almost slipping into the swollen stream. Couldn’t continue this way so we had to find a way to cross to access the ridge. I was wanting to turn back at this point, as this was very hard on my leg with the artificial knee joint, and was joined by one of the Germans. The porters brainstormed gathered at the edge of the torrent and decided to cut a fir tree

above us and carry it to the raging waters edge. They roped the tree at mid-section, then felled it, guiding it until it dropped barely hitting the opposite stream edge. They positioned the log, then secured a hand line from a climbing rope and once tested, we all made it across. This trip was not possible without the hill tribe porters and the beginning of the trip almost became the end as we battled heavy rain and swollen streams and rivers. Climbed a steep and poorly marked path, barely could be called a trail. The porters hacked through bamboo and rhododendron thickets through an old hunting trail, and passed through peat bogs with small ponds. We continued on a prolonged upward climb through sections of Rhododendron forest consisting of R arizelum, R glishrum, R sanguineum until we reached old growth sections of larch, fir trees mixed with bamboo. This was good red panda habitat, and were known to be present but never visible. We broke out onto a ridge by 4 pm, very tired as we moved through a fir forest with chest high rhododendrons, then entered pastoral meadows of grass and primulas that wove through stunted rhododendron gardens above the lake. The meadowed sections between the rhododendrons was filled with sedges and pink and yellow primulas. Saw a Gould’s sunbird feeding on flowers, a bird with yellow head, red breast and black forked tail. Lots of birds and bird song here, rich in avifauna. Finally came to the lake at 3750 meters (12423 feet) that came into view off and on through

sifting mist. The setting of the meadows surrounding the lake was seemed like an extensive English garden as far as the eye could see with grass walk ways that wove through a mosaic of pink, red, and peach flowered rhododendrons. Herbs and grass were just emerging, especially a plant that looks like Solomon seal at home, relished by the porters for adding to their pork soup. Amazing alpine area with hidden peaks surrounding us. Still raining but by evening began to let up. Porters camp was closer to the forest. Difficult to get a fire going but they managed with wet firewood of rhododendron trees and bamboo.

Camp at 3725 m unnamed lake west base of Gawagebo, 5128 m

Adrian cooked up a great meal of spagh etti with Gouda cheese, linguini noodles and pepperoni he brought from Hong Kong. Great meal that disappeared quickly. Then dessert of Chinese plumbs and part of a snickers bar that hit the spot. Getting colder so hopefully there might be a weather break. Thank you again lord

for endurance and sustaining me through the difficult terrain. We would stay another day on the lake, although I did want to go if the weather didn’t break. I was tired of rain and wet feet, boots and socks that reminded me of almost 60 years of hiking in awful weather in the Pacific Northwest. I can see at almost 72 I am less inclined to do this extreme trekking in foul weather, but thankful I am still able to do it although today grumpier about it. Everyone shares I am very strong at my age. Not so sure. We spent the next day exploring the lake and surrounding peaks in heavy mist and rain

showers. Enjoyed ascending the meadows on one side of the lake in an alpine forest and emerging meadows that had just experienced snow melt, and enjoyed the bird calls including the warbling songs of thrushes, none that I couldn’t identify. I explored the ridge above the lake following a couple porters who ascended to find herbs for our dinner, and the caterpillar fungus that brings good money in all of Yunnan. Ophiocordyceps sinensis is a parasitic fungus that can be ingested by larvae of moths within the family Hepialidae; specifically genera from the Tibetan Plateau and the Himalayas that are found between 3000-5000m (9400-16560 feet). The moth larvae make subterranean silken tunnels feed roots and leaves of certain alpine plants. The fungus is ingested then germinates in the living larva, kills and mummifies it, and then a dark brown stalk-like fruiting body which is a few centimeters long emerges from the corpse and stands upright. In traditional Chinese medicine it is regarded as having an excellent balance of yin and yang as it is considered to be composed of both an animal and a vegetable. I returned to camp for a quick lunch then off to explore the headwaters of the lake and its meadows at the base of Gawagebo. Found Rhododendron citiniflorum var horaeum with yellow peach-colored flowers, yellow flowered R campylocarpum, and the lavender colored R pumilum, and the deep red flowered and low growing vast areas of R forrestii var repens. Crossed the lake outlet that was a sheet flow of water across flowered meadows and got soaked, but thankful the gaiters I wore the entire trip helped retard the inflow into my boots. Encountered beautiful meadows of yellow primulas and marsh Marigolds and then ascended a steep ridge that led to a pass above the lake. The rugged saw-teeth like peaks were enshrouded with clouds, and walked along gardens of knee-high yellow and peach-red R citriniflorum. I

Rhododendron citriniflorum (Adrian Bottomley) R sanguineum

Rhododendron spp including R sanquinum, R citriniflorum, and primulas

Top, primilua spp, bottom, Ericaceae heath, Rhododendron spp, Primula spp Still walked back to the camp, still pretty tired from the ascent yesterday. Saw a fire tailed sunbird displaying from a perch on the tip leader of a young fir tree. The bird flew straight above, then spiraled down in flight, displaying for a nearby femaleraining this afternoon, I asked Edward to join me at the nearby campsite of the porters to translate and learn more of the Lisu, Nu and Nulong hunting culture. The leader Li Shua Wa was a short, strong man in his late 30’s whose family was originally from the Dulong River. His father became governor of Bhingzhongluo of Gaoligong prefecture years ago. He seemed to have respect and led the porters well, always taking care of us with firewood, setting up our plastic tarp, being sure our duffel bags and tents were stored underneath a tarp before we set them up. I learned that our porters were not struggling against the elements, but did enjoy the chance to get out and gather herbs and mushrooms to take back, and take their sling shots to hit birds. They ascended and descended peaks and trackless jungle like agile gorals that flit about the rocks, where at my age I wrestled climbing over logs, and not slipping on steep mud sections of the trail while they strained under 35 kg (77 lb) loads. Our relationship with this wilderness was worlds apart where I sought adventure and beauty of the flora and fauna. The porters worked hard to serve us day by day.

Through Edward I asked them about their knowledge of large mammals here avoiding the hint of any hunting, and if they knew about goral, deer and takin. It was difficult to translate in words my description of a takin or sambar, but they all replied they didn’t know. Then I asked if the wildlife had been hunted out, with no answer other than its now against the law to hunt the larger mammals like the Dulong Ox, and there was only about 215 left in a nearby valley. It turns out they are Gaur, and live in the lower valleys northeast of Gaoligongshan.

Sing At R who I learned was 48 and still very strong said there were many Himalayan black bear, but didn’t know about goral or deer, which I knew they still hunted. Yu da and Xiamen dongs were Lisu, and Sing At R all shared they are strong because they work in the fields and forest since children in helping farm rice, corn, potato, barley, and carrying heavy loads of wood and rice seed. Fong quin qua is 46 and shared about hunting with old muskets and cross bows before the large mammals became protected in Gaoligong. They still snared grouse, partridge and pheasants, and small mammals that included the bamboo rat. Xiamen showed me how to set up a snare for birds using thinly cut bamboo and setting a loop to catch the neck that is triggered by their feet. They also showed me how to set up a small mammal trap with a piece of arched bamboo over the mammal trail, then levered strips of bamboo that would trip the snare. Amazing ingenuity for snaring that is shared among our 4 Lisu, 4 Nu and 2 Nulong porters. Yu da was a Christian and I appreciated him and all of their joyful attitudes carrying loads and serving. It was a real inspiration to me. However, I questioned if hunting is still going on, and that is why they did not respond to my descriptions of deer or goral, or the animals were now scarce and rarely seen. Because of the rapidly expanding hilltribe population surrounding the lower elevations of Gaoligongshan, there is an ever-increasing need for resources. Researchers have concluded wildlife is now scarce with scattered populations in Gaoligong as both birds and mammals have been hunted for centuries. Although there are now laws in place in the Gaoligong Reserves preventing hunting, they are not enforced and there are no trained guards to police the remote mountainous valleys. And the increasing population is generally poor, putting incredible pressure on the reserves natural resources for not only game, but firewood, charcoal, and in the south and mid sections agricultural land with slash and burn techniques. The lowland forest is disappearing, but some animal populations like sambar are increasing inside the reserves, and possibly takin, and tufted deer, remnants of the once diverse wildlife. The unique geographical location and climate features of western Yunnan and especially Gaoligong Mountains within its reserves has created a refuge of the most outstanding region in China for both plant and animal diversity. Most of China’s rare and endangered animals occur within it, especially in the western Gaoligong and Yunling Mountains with most species threatened and over 30 species under state protection including many endangered species.