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Simple, Sturdy Workbench

From Getting Started in Woodworking, Season 2

B y A s A C h r i s t i A n A

This workbench is easy and inexpensive

to build, yet is sturdy and versatile

enough for any woodworker. The base is

construction lumber (4x4s and 2x4s), joined

simply with long bolts and short dowels. The

top is two layers of MDF (medium-density

fiberboard), cut from a single sheet, with

enough left over to make a handy shelf.

The only tools needed to make this bench

are a drill/driver, a circular saw, and a hand-

held router or a router table.

There is room at one end for a small cast-

iron woodworking vise, which is an essential

tool in any woodworking shop. The vise is

fitted with non-marring wooden jaws, and the

jaws and benchtop receive dog holes, sized

to fit a variety of handy bench accessories.

24 in.

17 in.

48 in.

41 in.

10 in.

335⁄8 in.

4 in.

9 in.

93⁄16 in.

13⁄4 in.

13⁄4 in.35⁄16 in.

27⁄8 in.

95⁄8 in.

11/2 in.

62 in.

31/2 in.

4 8-ft.-long 2x4s, kiln-dried

2 8-ft.-long 4x4s, kiln-dried

1 4x8 sheet of MDF

2 Hardwood pieces for vise jaws, 71/2 in. long by 3 in. wide. Front jaw can be

between 1 in. and 11/2 in. thick and the rear jaw is 3/4 in. thick.

1 Filler block for mounting vise, 3/4-in.-thick plywood, 4 in. wide by 6 in. long

1 bottle of yellow glue

1 7-in. Groz Rapid-Action Woodworking Vise (www.woodcraft.com)

4 6-ft. lengths of 3 ⁄8-in.-dia. threaded rod

163 ⁄8-in. washers

163 ⁄8-in. nuts

2 2-in.-long 1/4-20 bolts, nuts, washers for attaching front jaw of vise

2 11/2-in.-long, 1/4-20 flathead screws for attaching rear jaw

1 Box of 11/4-in.-long drywall screws for laminating benchtop

43 ⁄8-in.-dia., 21/2-in.-long lag screws and washers, for attaching vise

16 S-clip-type tabletop fasteners

163 ⁄8-in.-dia. dowels, roughly 3 in. long

LuMber, harDware anD suppLies LisT

Side

stretchers

Long stretchers

Visit us online at Finewoodworking.com/start to watch a two-part video detailing how to build this workbench from start to finish.

ViDeOs ViDeOs

13⁄16 in.

13⁄16 in.

Simple, Sturdy Workbench

From Getting Started in Woodworking, Season 2

B y A s A C h r i s t i A n A

This workbench is easy and inexpensive

to build, yet is sturdy and versatile

enough for any woodworker. The base is

construction lumber (4x4s and 2x4s), joined

simply with long bolts and short dowels. The

top is two layers of MDF (medium-density

fiberboard), cut from a single sheet, with

enough left over to make a handy shelf.

The only tools needed to make this bench

are a drill/driver, a circular saw, and a hand-

held router or a router table.

There is room at one end for a small cast-

iron woodworking vise, which is an essential

tool in any woodworking shop. The vise is

fitted with non-marring wooden jaws, and the

jaws and benchtop receive dog holes, sized

to fit a variety of handy bench accessories.

24 in.

17 in.

48 in.

41 in.

10 in.

335⁄8 in.

4 in.

9 in.

93⁄16 in.

13⁄4 in.

13⁄4 in.35⁄16 in.

27⁄8 in.

95⁄8 in.

11/2 in.

62 in.

31/2 in.

4 8-ft.-long 2x4s, kiln-dried

2 8-ft.-long 4x4s, kiln-dried

1 4x8 sheet of MDF

2 Hardwood pieces for vise jaws, 71/2 in. long by 3 in. wide. Front jaw can be

between 1 in. and 11/2 in. thick and the rear jaw is 3/4 in. thick.

1 Filler block for mounting vise, 3/4-in.-thick plywood, 4 in. wide by 6 in. long

1 bottle of yellow glue

1 7-in. Groz Rapid-Action Woodworking Vise (www.woodcraft.com)

4 6-ft. lengths of 3 ⁄8-in.-dia. threaded rod

16 3 ⁄8-in. washers

16 3 ⁄8-in. nuts

2 2-in.-long 1/4-20 bolts, nuts, washers for attaching front jaw of vise

2 11/2-in.-long, 1/4-20 flathead screws for attaching rear jaw

1 Box of 11/4-in.-long drywall screws for laminating benchtop

4 3 ⁄8-in.-dia., 21/2-in.-long lag screws and washers, for attaching vise

16 S-clip-type tabletop fasteners

16 3 ⁄8-in.-dia. dowels, roughly 3 in. long

LuMber, harDware anD suppLies LisT

Side stretchers

Long stretchers

Visit us online at Finewoodworking.com/start to watch a two-part video detailing how to build this workbench from start to finish.

ViDeOs ViDeOs

13⁄16 in.

13⁄16 in.

Build an Oak Bookcase From Getting Started in Woodworking, Season 2

B y A s A C h r i s t i A n A

You can thank Mike Pekovich, Fine Woodworking’s art direc-tor, for designing this simple but

stylish bookcase. He took a straightfor-ward form--an oak bookcase with dado and rabbet joints--and added nice pro-portions and elegant curves.

We agreed that screws would reinforce the joints nicely, and that gave us a de-sign option on the sides. Choose oak plugs, and align the grain carefully, and the plugs disappear. Make them from a contrasting wood, like walnut, and the rows of plugs add a nice design feature to the broad sides, hinting at the con-struction in a subtle way.

By design the bookcase contains a number of fundamental lessons for would-be furniture-makers, and like the other projects in this video series, the whole thing can be built with just a few portable power tools: a circular saw, a drill, and a router

The shelves attach to the sides with simple dadoes, and the back and back-splash drop into rabbets. Screws rein-force the dado joints and also attach the lower stretcher, and wood plugs cover the screw holes. Smaller wood screws are used to attach the plywood back.

Curves add life to rectangular pieces of furniture, and Pekovich worked in three types, each irregular and organic (as opposed to radius curves that can seem mechanical). At the top are gen-tle curves that speed up as they move forward, each taken from a section of a French curve. At the bottom are two long curves formed with a flexible wood batten, one extending end to end on the lower stretcher, and the other a short graceful arch at the bottom of the sides, ending at a straight step at each end to suggest legs.

--Asa Christiana, editor, Fine Woodworking

Lumber and hardware List

VideOs Go to Finewoodworking.com/start to watch a multi-part video detailing how to build this bookcase from start to finish. VideOs

Part QtY size materiaL

sides 2 3/4 in. x 11 in. x 52 in. Oak

sheLVes 5 3/4 in. x 10 5/8 in. x 27 in. Oak

back sPLash 1 3/4 in. x 3 1/4 in. x 27 1/2 in. Oak

arched stretcher

1 3/4 in. x 3 in. x 26 1/2 in. Oak

back 1 1/4 in. x 27 1/2 in. x 45 3/4 in. Oak veneer plywood

screws FOr sheLVes

30 #12 x 2 in. flat head screws Steel

screws FOr back

24 #6 x 3/4 in. flat head screws Steel

CLICK HERE NOW! SUBSCRIBE TODAY!

TAUNTON’S

WTilt-Top Table

A project plan for crafting

a tilt-top tea table of graceful

proportions

72 F I N E W O O D W O R K I N G Photos: Matt Berger

s a woodworkinginstructor, I’m al-

ways lookingfor interesting and chal-lenging projects to pre-sent in my classes. ThisFederal tilt-top tea tablesatisfies all of my criteriafor an intermediate-levelproject: It’s neat and com-pact with only a few parts, andthe construction introduces stu-dents to both machine- and hand-

tool techniques. The bonus is that the finished productis graceful in design and fits into almost any interior space.

In the 18th century, many of these small tables were madewith local hardwoods, and there are a number of period ex-amples in maple, walnut, and cherry. My version is made ofmahogany, which is available from most commercial suppliersin the required thicknesses, from 4/4 to 12/4. I find mahoganyideal for the turning required in this project, and it takes a finish beautifully.

Begin by turning the column on the latheThe profile of the column is provided at half scale in thedrawing on the facing page. The drawing can be enlarged200% to full size on a copy machine and used as a pattern.Prepare the turning blank thick enough to accommo-date a maximum diameter of roughly 23⁄4 in. I recom-mend using a solid piece, although gluing up twopieces is an option; however, you’ll be leftwith a seam down the center of the column.

Prior to mounting the blank on thelathe, lop off the long corners on thebandsaw by either tilting the bandsawtable to 45° or holding the workpieceat 45° in a carriage. Once it’s on the

lathe, rough the blank into a cylinderwith an even 23⁄4-in. diameter. Use aparting tool and your pattern to set upthe diameters of all of the various ele-ments on the column. Establish all ofthe flats first, then turn the coves and

beads with a spindle gouge and a skewchisel. Finally, sand the column smooth.

Turn column ends precisely—Two criti-cal portions of the column require careful at-

tention. The diameter of the tenon at the top ofthe column, which engages the pivot block, must

exactly match the 11⁄2-in.-dia. hole drilled through thepivot block. Because I make this table so often in my classes,I made a plywood gauge that gives me the right diameter.However, you can just as well use a set of calipers.

The other critical area is the bottom portion of the columnwhere the legs are attached. This end doesn’t have to beturned to a precise diameter; just make sure it’s straight anduniform. Any dips or a taper will create gaps where the col-umn receives the three dovetailed legs. A nonuniform surfacealso will have a detrimental effect on the fit of the legs.

Make a carriage for the sliding dovetailsThe traditional and most effective method of joining the

legs to the column is with sliding dovetails. Once the legshave been attached, the flair of the dovetails prevents

the legs from loosening over time. The key toachieving snug and handsome joints is to cut the

slots first and then make the dovetails to fit.To cut the joinery, you’ll have to removethe turning from the lathe. Set up each

cut carefully. I built a plywood carriagejig (see the drawing on p. 74) that sup-ports the column while I rout thedovetail slots. Each slot should be

A

Tilt-Top TableElegant project builds hand-tool

and machine skills

B Y M A R I O R O D R I G U E Z

Drawings: Bob La Pointe

M A H O G A N YT E A TA B L E

23⁄8 in.dia.

25⁄8 in.dia.

23⁄8 in. dia.

13⁄4 in. dia.

23⁄8 in. dia.

25⁄8 in. dia.

11⁄2 in.dia.

2 in.dia.

23⁄8 in.dia.

11⁄2 in.dia.

1 in.

5⁄8 in.

3⁄16 in.

13⁄4 in.

55⁄8 in.

1⁄2 in.

1⁄8 in.

1⁄8 in.

31⁄4 in.

3⁄8 in.

1 in.

3⁄4 in.

5⁄8 in.

31⁄2 in.

Pivot strip, 5⁄8 in.square by 7 in.long, includingtenons

Mortise, 1⁄2 in. dia. by 1⁄2 in. deep, inset 1⁄16 in.from top of cleat

7⁄8 in.

NOTE

The leg, thequarter view ofthe top, and thecolumn profileare at half scale.To make full-sizetemplates of theparts, photo-copy the pageat 200%.

N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 0 4 73

Pivot block,1 in. thick by 6 in.square

WedgeTOP VIEW

Brass catchattached flushto undersideof top

Rabbet, 5⁄8 in. deepby 5⁄8 in. wide

Cleat, 5⁄8 in. thickby 1 in. wide by12 in. long

Leg, 3⁄4 in. thick at thetop, tapers to 1⁄2 in.thick at the bottom.

Top, 1⁄2 in. thick by 15 in. wide by 17 in. long

Tenon, 1⁄2 in. dia.by 1⁄2 in. long

31⁄2 in.

3⁄4 in.

1 in.

1⁄2 in.

3⁄4 in.

74 F I N E W O O D W O R K I N G

120° apart on center, and the jig isequipped with an index block to align thecolumn correctly for each slot. Match the120° marks on the index block to a corre-sponding mark on the jig. A wood screwsecures it in each position for cutting.

Cut the slots with three router bits—There are three steps to cutting the dovetailslots. First, establish a flat edge on the col-umn for the shoulder of the leg. Use a 1-in.-dia. straight router bit, and set up the cut totrim a flat surface just wide enough for thethickness of the leg. It’s better to cut this alittle too wide than too narrow. A wide flatcan be rounded with a file, but a narrowflat will create a gap where the leg meetsthe column. The stop block on the routerjig should be set so the dovetail slot stopsjust short of the column shoulder.

After cutting a flat edge for the threelegs—rotating the column in the jig foreach cut—switch to a 7⁄16-in. straight bitand hog out most of the waste for eachslot. This second step reduces thestress on the router and the wear onthe dovetail bit. Finally, change routerbits again to a dovetail bit (mine is an11° bit) and take a final pass on eachslot. Set the column aside until you’re

ready to cut the dovetails on the table legs.

Shape the legs on the bandsawThe three legs are rough-cut on the band-saw and taken to their final shape withhand tools. To begin, enlarge the scale

A J I G F O RR O U T I N GT H E C O L U M N

Mount the column in the router jig. First, insert the column into the index block and secureit with a wood screw to keep it from rotating within the block (left). Align the base of the col-umn in the jig using the dimple created by the lathe and hold it in place by tightening thesharpened hex bolt (center). Finally, locate the column for routing by aligning one of the threescribe lines on the index block with the centerline on the jig and fasten it with a screw (right).

Sides, 251⁄8 in.long by 53⁄8 in. tall

Bottom, 6 in. wideby 235⁄8 in. long

Front end, 6 in.wide by 53⁄8 in. tall

Back end, 6 in.wide by 45⁄8 in. tall

Stop, 11⁄2 in. wideby 71⁄2 in. long

Cleats, 1⁄2 in.thick by 1 in.wide by 141⁄2 in.long

Woodscrew

1⁄2-in.-dia.dowel

Stop block, 6 in.wide by 5 in. long

Routerbaseplate, 6 in. square

Index block, 31⁄2 in.dia., with 11⁄2-in.-dia.mortise for column

Sharpenedhex-head bolt, 1⁄2 in. dia. by 6 in. long

Insethex nut

Built from 3⁄4-in.-thickplywood and modi-fied off-the-shelfhardware, this jig isused to orient andsupport the columnand guide the routerwhen cutting thethree dovetail slotsfor the legs.

Woodscrew

N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 0 4 75

drawing to 200% to make a template with1⁄4-in.-thick plywood, and then draw the legshape directly onto the three workpieceswith the grain running lengthwise. I madethe pattern about 1 in. longer than is foundon period examples of the table so that itcould be built for a standard 29-in. height.However, to build a more accurate repro-duction, you simply can cut off the extrainch from the foot without greatly affectingthe appearance of the table.

Once each leg has been rough-cut toabout 1⁄16 in. to the line, gang the legs to-gether with a clamp and clean up the frontand back edges with a spokeshave followedby a cabinet scraper. Clamping all threelegs together makes it easier to keep theedges square, and it reduces tearout at the edges. Also, always cut in the directionof the grain with the spokeshave, even if itrequires repositioning the legs in the vise.

Cut the dovetails—To cut the dovetailson the legs, set up the router table with afence and the same dovetail bit used forthe slots. Before cutting into the real legs,use a cutoff from the leg material of the ex-act same thickness and make test cuts tofine-tune the fit of the dovetail into the col-umn base. Carefully pass the stock uprightalong the fence to cut one cheek of thedovetail. Flip it over to cut the other side. I

R O U T T H E D O V E TA I L S L O T SI N T H R E E S T E P S

1. ROUT A FLAT SHOULDER

Trim a 3⁄4-in. flat centered over each of theslots so that the legs will join flush to thecolumn.

Straight bit,1 in. dia.

Straight bit,7⁄16 in. dia.

11° dovetail bit

1⁄2 in.

2. HOG OUT THE WASTE

Set the bit to cut 1⁄2 in. deep and stop justshort of the column shoulder.

3. ROUT THE DOVETAIL PROFILE

Take your final pass and wait until the bitstops spinning before backing it out of the cut.

3⁄4 in.

76 F I N E W O O D W O R K I N G

made a jig using my leg template that ridesalong the router-table fence and holds theleg steady. If you discover that a dovetaildoesn’t fit right in the column, run it backacross the bit and apply more pressureagainst the fence. It might take off justenough to make the fit easier.

Next, make a slight roundover along thefront edge of each leg one at a time. Draw apencil line down the center of the leg aswell as lines on both sides that follow theprofile of the leg about 1⁄8 in. from the edge.Then use a spokeshave to round over theedge to your guidelines. Finish off to a niceprofile with files, a scraper, and sandpaper.

Taper the legs—The three legs taper from3⁄4 in. thick at the dovetail to 1⁄2 in. thick at thefoot. I made a pair of sleds that help me cre-ate this taper with a thickness planer (seethe top right photos on the facing page),though careful handplaning also wouldwork. The first sled elevates the foot of theleg 1⁄8 in., creating one side of the taperwhen it is run through the planer. The sec-ond sled raises the foot of the leg 1⁄4 in., sowhen you flip it over, an even taper is cuton both sides. Be careful not to plane offtoo much, or you will damage the dovetail.

Create the tilting mechanismThe pivot system for the tilting tabletopconsists of a pivot block that fits over thecolumn tenon and two cleats that attach tothe underside of the tabletop. Two roundtenons extend off one end of the pivotblock and are set into holes in the twocleats, allowing the tabletop to pivot.

S H A P E T H EL E G S A N DC U T T H ED O V E TA I L S

Shape all three legsat once. Gang the legs together withclamps and use aspokeshave and cardscraper to clean up thebandsaw marks.

Make a jig for routingthe dovetails. A jig, madeusing the leg template,supports the leg while rout-ing. The sides of the jig rideon a supplemental fencescrewed to the router-tablefence. Put steady pressureagainst the fence as yourout to ensure a clean cutand tight fit.

Make the two cleats and then drill theholes for the round tenons, locating themas close to the top edge of each cleat aspossible; I aim for about 1⁄16 in. This will en-sure that the tabletop lies properly againstthe pivot block when it is horizontal, andstands perfectly plumb when vertical.

There are two ways you can approachthe pivot block. The traditional method isto cut the round tenons out of the pivotblock with a single piece of wood. But theeasiest method is to make a pivot blockwith a rabbet cut into one edge, and thenglue in a separate strip sized to the dimen-sions of the rabbet with round tenons cuton each end. You will need to plane thepivot strip flush with the surface and theback edge of the pivot block.

Turn the round tenons on the lathe, andaim carefully for a squeaky-tight fit in thecleats. As the top is tilted, there should besome resistance on the pivot. That way,when the top is vertical, it will stay there.

Prepare the oval topThe tabletop measures about 15 in. wideby 17 in. long, so you may have to glue uptwo pieces to make it.

Use the scale drawing to make a 1⁄2-in.-thick birch plywood template, trace an out-line of the tabletop onto the workpiece,

U S E A PA I R O F S L E D S T OTA P E R T H E L E G S

Round the front edge of the legs. To guideyour progress, mark the leg with a centerlineand two guidelines along the sides about 1⁄8 in.from the edge.

Taper the legs with a

thickness planer. Cut

one side of the taper

with a sled that raises

the foot of the leg 1⁄8 in.

Use a second sled to

taper the other side.

This time the foot is

raised 1⁄4 in. so that it is

evenly tapered.

Glue the legs in the column.Apply glue liberally to each dovetail and tap it into the slotuntil it’s fully set.

78 F I N E W O O D W O R K I N G

and cut it out on the bandsaw just outsideof the line. Next, rout the oval shape on arouter table with a bearing-guided bit (seeFWW #170, pp. 72-75, on changing the di-rection of the cut to avoid tearout). Thetabletop edges are slightly rounded over tomatch the rounded profile of the legs.

Assemble the table, apply a finish, and attach the hardwareOnce all of the parts have been prepared,assembly should go pretty smoothly. First,attach the legs to the column, checking for atight fit and a clean joint between the shoul-der of the legs and the column. The legsshould go on without incident if you care-

fully cut the dovetails on the router table. Al-though not required, you can reinforce theleg joints with a metal brace called a tablespider—available from Horton Brasses (800-754-9127; www.horton-brasses.com).

Once the legs have been glued in place,use a wedge to attach the pivot block to thetop of the column. Saw down the center ofthe column tenon to make a kerf for thewedge. It should run perpendicular to thedirection of the grain on the pivot block sothe block doesn’t split when you drivehome the wedge. The pivot block must bepositioned so that when the tabletop is inthe upright position, one leg is pointingstraight back. This way the table can fit in-

to a corner. To achieve the proper orienta-tion, set the column onto a workbench sothat two legs rest on the workbench(above). Then attach the pivot block withthe round tenons flat on the workbench.

Next, screw on the tabletop. With the topupside down on your workbench and thepivot block centered on it, set the cleatsonto the pivot-block tenons with a 1⁄16-in.gap between. Then drive #8 screwsthrough the cleats and into the undersideof the tabletop.

All of the parts should be sanded throughto 220-grit abrasive before assembly. Istained the table with a mixture of cherryand walnut Behlen Solar-Lux stains (Garrett

B U I L D T H E T I LT M E C H A N I S M

Assemble the pivot block. Glue aseparate strip with round tenoned endsinto a rabbet cut in the pivot block. Thenround the corner of the block to allowthe table to tilt properly.

Align the block before securing it.Align the pivot block on end while twolegs are flat against the workbench. Thiswill ensure that the legs are properlyaligned with the oval top.

N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 0 4 79

Wade; 800-221-2942; www.garrettwade.com). Then I brushed on several thin coatsof shellac. Sand lightly after the first coat ofshellac and allow each subsequent coat todry thoroughly. Finally, rub out the finishwith fine steel wool.

The last step is to apply a glaze coat. Iused McCloskey glaze with raw umberJapan pigment added. Once the glazedried, I waxed and buffed the table.

Finally, install a good reproduction catch(307-739-9478; www.whitechapel-ltd.com)to keep the top secure and level when thetable is in use. �

Mario Rodriguez is a contributing editor.

A wedge secures thepivot block. Orient theslot in the tenon perpen-dicular to the grain of theblock to avoid splitting the block as you drivein the wedge.

Screw the cleats to thetabletop. Slide the cleatsonto the round tenons of the pivot block and center the base assemblyalong the long axis of the tabletop. Attach thecatch after the finish hasbeen applied.