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NDAMENTALs]%0F PATTERNMAKINGj

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APPAREL

FOUNIJATION PATTERNS

by

ESTHER ,KAPLAN PNNICK

FUNDAMENTALS OF PATTERNMAKINGINDf{

WOMEN’S APPAREL

BOOK 1

FOUNDATION PATTERNS

by

ESTHER IKAPL/KN PIVNICK

514523nnnwmcommmm COLLEGE uammv

A

Copyright, 1955

PATTERN PUBLICATIONSCold Spring Harbor, N.Y.

Printed in the United States of America

PREVIOUS TITLES

"Principles and Problems of Patternmakingas Applied to Women's Apparel" - Book I

by Charles and Esther KaplanPublished by Streimin Studio, N.Y.

Copyright, 1939

"How to Design Beautiful Clothes"by Esther Kaplan Pivnick

Published by Wm. Wise & Co. , Inc . , N.Y.Copyright, 1949

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Introduction ................................................................................................................__1Part I MEASUREMENTS ......................................................................................... 2

Lesson 1. Taking Measurements for the Front and Back Waist Drafts . . . . . . ... 3Lesson 2. Taking Measurements for the Skirt and Slacks Drafts _________________ .. 6Lesson 3. Taking Measurements for the Sleeve Draft ...................................... 3Part II DRAFTING THE BASIC PATTERNSLesson 4. The Front Waist Draft _____________________________________________________________________ ._ 9Lesson 5. The Back Waist Draft .......................................................................13Lesson 6. The Skirt Draft ................................................................................._. 16Lesson 7. Joining the Waist and Skirt Together ______________________________________________ _. 21

a. The Front ...................................................................................._. 2)

b. The Back ......................................................................................... 23Lesson 8. The Sleeve Draft ................................................................................ 24Lesson 9. The Slacks Draft ................................................................................... 28Lesson 10. The Culotte, or Divided Skirt Draft ..............................................__33Part III DRAPING THE BASIC PATTERNS

Lesson 11. The Front Waist Pattern ..............................................................._. 35Lesson 12. The Back Waist Pattern .................................................................. 36Lesson 13. The Front Skirt Pattern ....................................................................._ 37Lesson 14. The Back Skirt Pattern ...................................................................... 33

Part IV GRADING THE BASIC PATTERNS

Lesson 15. The Basic Skirt Grade ....................................................................._. 42Lesson 16. The Basic Waist Grade ................................................................. _ 45Lesson 17. The Basic Sleeve Grade ...................................................................__48Lesson 18. The Basic Slacks Grade ...................... __________________________________________ .‘

51

Part V THE MEASUREMENT CHARTSa. Misses‘ Sizes .. . E. ~ V ---------------------------------- ~ 54b. Women's Sizes --------------------------------------------------------------------- 55c. Halfsizes (ShorterWomen) 56d_ Juniors U __ I V V __ , , , ______, , . , , __, ‘ . t _. . ._. ._. . . , , .. 57

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LESSON 1

Taking Measurements for the Front and Back Waist Drafts.

FIG 1a FIG 16 FIG lc

Figures 1a. lb, 1c.

1.

7a.

The FULL \WAIST LENGTH measurement (AB) is taken from the joiningof the neck and shoulder seams down to the waistline, approximately parallelto the center front.The CENTER WAIST LENGTH measurement (C-D) is taken from the baseof the neckline down the center front to the waistline.The CROSS SHOULDERS \WIDTH measurement (E-C-F) is taken from thejoining of the armscye and shoulder seams across the base of the neck.The CROSS CHEST WIDTH measurement (front) (G-H) is taken fromarmscye to armscye 1‘/2" below the base of the neck.The CROSS BACK WIDTH measurement (G-H) is taken 4" below the baseof the neck.The NECK TO BUST POINT measurement (A-I) is taken from the joiningof the neck and shoulder seams to the highest point of the bust. There is nocorresponding back measurement.The BUST POINT TO BUST POINT measurement (I-]) is the distance acrossthe center from between the highest points of the bust. There is no correspond-ing back measurement.The FULL (BACK) WIDTH measurement (K-L) is taken across the backfrom side seam to side seam at the base of the armscye.

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Figures 5A. 5B. ,%(I.

9. THE SH()Ul.DliR Sl.()Pl{ measurement (li-D) is taken from the end of theshoulder line at the armscyc to the center front at the waistline.

H). The SH()UI.l)l€R LENGTH measurement is the length of line E-A.I I . The NECK BASE measurement (A-(I-O) is taken from the joining of the

neck and shoulder seams around the base of the neck through the center front.I2. The SHOULDER TO SIDE STEAM measurement (E-P-Q) is taken from the

end of the shoulder, around the armscye for 5'/:'', to the side seam at thewaistline.

15. The ARMSCYE TO \X’AIST measurement (K-Q) is taken along the sideseam from the base of the armscye to the waistline.

I4. The \Y’AlST measurement (Q-1)-R) is taken from side seam to side seam,

usually through the middle of the tape.

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LESSON 5

Taking Measurements For The Sleeve Draft.‘

For a standard size, the sleeve measurements on the chart will .prove mostsatisfactory. The difliculty in taking the measurements on a human arm lies withthe underarm lengthmeasurement, and upperarm.width. It would be wise to checkthese personal measurements against the chart.

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Figure ‘I.

20. The SHOULDER T0 WRIST LENGTH measurement (li-4-S) is taken from_the shoulder to the wrist over a bent elbow.

21. The UNDERARM LENGTH measurement (K-6. Figure 8) is taken fromthe armpit level used for the waist drafts to the wrist on a straight arm.

22. The SHOULDER TO ELBOW LENGTH measurement (F.-4) is taken fromt_he end of the shoulder line to the level of the elbow when the arm is bent.

25, The UPPERARM WIDTH measurement (6-7) is taken around the entirearm at the armpit level with 1" additional ease,’PLUS the extra width addedto the armscye in the waist drafts. (See page 9, Figurezi, line 15.)For example, if the upperarm width is ll'/.'’. 1'' case, plus I‘./:'' added to thearmscye in the waist draft, would make a total of 15’/."'.’ 24. The ELBOW WIDTH measurement (4-7) is taken around the entire elbowwith the arm completely bent.

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Z 3 25. The WRIST WIDTH measurement (5-6) is taken around the entire wrist.

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PART II—DRAFTING THE BASIC PATTERNS

LESSON 4

THE FRONTWAIST DRAFTThe measurements used for this draft are size 14 from the chart. The

procedure is the same for any size or any group of measurements.All width measurements must be divided in half, since only a half pattern

is drafted.The draft follows the same order as the taking of the measurements. The

number of the measurement corresponds to the number on the draft and on theinstructions below.

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FIG 1L me, 2,

-H «AFigure 1.1. A-1 is the FULLWAIST LENGTH.2. A-2 is the CENTER WAIST LENGTH.

A line is drawn through 2, any length, at right angles to the center front.3. 1-3 is one-half the CROSS-SHOULDERSWIDTH,drawn at right angles to A-1.4. 1-4 is one-half the CROSS-CHESTWIDTH.

The lines from 3 and 4 are parallel to A-1.5. 1-5 is the NECK TO BUST POINT.6. 5-6 is one-half the BUST POINT TO BUST POINT width.Figure 2.

Figure 2 shows the working out of the curve of the bust measurement.7. 5-B is the 2" which locates the FULL FRONTWIDTH.

3-7 is ONE-HALF THE DIFFERENCE between the Bust Width and the FullFront Width. (If the bust width is 20'/2" and the full front width 19'/2", B-7is ‘/2”.)B-7 is drawn at right angles to the center front.7 and 5 are connected by a line which goes through 5.A square is placed so that one side rests on the line which goes from 7 through5, and the other side goes through point 6.The line C-6 is drawn, extended through 6. 9

Figure 8.__ The shoulder dart.The neck dart can be transferred to the shoulder.

‘ 7-N is the same measurement as L-M in Figure 4.N and 6 are connected. A short line is drawn at right angles from N to

aid in drawing the new neckline.The new neckline is drawn from N to 2. This should measure exactly one-

half the neck base.The shoulder dart, 0-P-Q is the difference in length between the new

shoulder line 6-N and the old shoulder line 6-7.The dart is 2‘/2-3” long and placed as desired on the shoulder.

Figure 9.The curve of the shoulder line must be checked. The shoulder dart must

be folded in, placing line O-P on line Q-P.The dotted line shows the corrected shoulder line.

Figure 10.The completed back waist pattern with shoulder dart.

4. Point 4 divides the Hip Line into its front and back lengths,tion of the side seam.2-4 is one-half the total BACK HIP WIDTH.B-4 is one-half the total FRONT HIP WIDTH.1-D is the same length as 2-4.C-D is the same length as B-4.D-4-E is the SIDE LENGTH.Connect A, E, and 3.E-5 is the depth at which the abdominal extension measurement is taken.3-17 and A-G are the same lengths as E-5.Connect G and 5 and F,

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Figure 2.The Waist Darts.The Front Waistline.

F-H is one-half the FRONT ABDOMINAL EXTENSION.4-H-I is drawn from 4 through H to the waistline.

17

The Back Waistline.7. One-half the BACK WAIST measurement is subtracted from the length of

line A-E.The difference is divided into four parts.E-N is one part. Connect N and 4.A-0 is one part.A new center back line is drawn from 0 through 2 for the same length as line

A-1'. Connect 8 and 1.P is the center of O-N.P-Q-R is two parts.Q-T, tne center line of the dart is parallel to 0-2.The dart is usually 5-6" long.

The back waist darts may be divided differently if there is a center backseam.

See Figure 8 in which P-R is only half the size and the center back andside seams have been shaped more to make up the dilierence.

The center back line is now 2-U-8. The side seam line is now 4-V-9.The dart P-T-R, now being smaller, can be shorter.(It does not matter how the darts are divided, provided the waist measure-

ment stays the same.)The back abdominal extension line is U-V. When the dart P-T-R is closed,

U-V may be larger than the exact measurement. Correction should be left for thefitting. It may be found best not to fit this measurement exactly.

Figure 3.The curve of the back waistline must be checked after the dart P-T-R is

folded by placing line P-T on R-T. The dotted line shows the corrected waistline.Figure 4.The completed Back Skirt pattern.

Notches may be placed at points P, R, and 4.Figure 5.

The curve of the front waistline must be checked after the dart J-M-I. isfolded by placing line ]-M on L-M.

The dotted line shows the corrected waistline. —_

19

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Figure 6.

The completed Front Skirt pattern.The front skirt pattern has to be cut out of the draft and recopied on an-

other sheet of paper so that additional width may be added at the side seam to make

the. bottom sweep the same as the back.C-D is extended through point D so that C-D-W equals D-S of the back

skirt.Connect 4 and W, which line now has to’ be made the same length as

the back.V

4-X is the same length as line 4-D.Connect X and D.The completed Front Skirt pattern is 5-C-D-X-4-H-6-L-J-3.The corner at H may be rounded ofi as shown by the dotted line.Notches may be placed at points J, L, and 4.

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LESSON 7

JOINING THE WAIST AND SKIRT TOGETHER

A. The Front.Figure 1.

Figure la shows the front bodice of Figure 9. page 12.Figure lb shows the hip section of the front skirt of Figure 6, page 20.(The full skirt length or any length can be used of course. The procedure

is the same.)The dart of the front waist (B-A-C) must be made equal to the skirt dart

(E-F-G) before the two can be joined together. Part of the bust dart must be shiftedaway from the waistline to accomplish this.

A-D is drawn from the apex of the bust dart (A) to any place on theshoulder line indicating where the surplus dart is going. (A-D may be

drawn to any other part of the front—the neckline, side seam, etc.)

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Figure 2.

The front bodice pattern is cut in two on line B-A-D.The dart C-A-B is cut away.The two sections are placed together on another piece of paper so that

they meet at point A and are spread at C and B the same amount as G-E of the skirt.D-D opens automatically.

The pattern pieces should be traced making a new pattern.

21

FIG 3

Figure 3.The new front waist can now be joined to the skirt.The skirt dart is moved over to meet the waist dart.

Figure 4.

Figure 4 shows the one—piece pattern finished as far as the hip.F-H is drawn to show how the pattern can be divided in two parts for a

french lining pattern or princess type pattern.The position of the seam line D-A-B-F-H can beany shape desired.D-A-C-F-H is drawn accordingly. As long as the proper amount of dart

at D-A-D and A-C-F-B-A is removed, the shape of the princess line does not matter.

Figure 5.

Figure 5 shows the two parts of the pattern separated.The straight grain lines are usually drawn at right angles to the waistline.

B. The Back.

Figure 6.The back waist pattern of Figure 10, page 15, and the hip section of the

back skirt pattern of Figure 4, page 18, are shown joined together.If the two darts A-B-C and D-E-F do not meet, they should be brought

together.

Figure 7.

The skirt dart D-E-F has been moved to meet the -waist dart. The patternis now complete as a one-piece pattern.

Lines G-B and E-] are drawn to show how the pattern can be divided intwo parts for a french lining pattern or princess type pattern. The shoulder dartG-H-I must be redrawn so that point H rests on line G-B.

Figure 8.

Figure 8 shows the two parts of the pattern separated.The straight grain lines are usually drawn at right angles to the waistline.The shape of the seam line can be changed as desired. As shown by the

dotted lines, what is taken off the center section must be added to the side section.

FIG 8

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Figure 4.Shaping the cap.12. The back cap line isdrawn from A through ]a, outside the guide line about ‘./4",

into Ka and 4.15. The front cap line is drawn from A through Ia, outside the guide line at Ha

for W’, and into B.Shaping the wrist. .

14. A curved line is drawn from L to N, eliminating the corner at 6.The elbow fullness.15. .5-O-F-5, the shaded area, represents the total elbow fullness.

The amount of fullness (5-0) is the difference in length between lines 2-5-Land 4-S-M.This excess may be used as gathers at the elbow, pleats, or darts. Figure 5 showsoff on either side of the elbow line.

J A I T

Figure 5.The completed sleeve pattern.

_ The measurement of the sleeve cap must be checked with the armscye intowhich the sleeve will be fitted. The cap line must be larger than the armscye evenwhen there is no shoulder pad, in order for the sleeve to fit smoothly over theroundness of the top of the arm. 1-1‘/2" of cap fullness usually is all that is required,placed at the top of the sleeve. To keep the fullness in its proper place and to helpset the sleeve into the armscye correctly, notches (P, T, Q) are placed on the sleevecap corresponding to the notches on the armscye of the waist pa‘tern and theshoulder line.

Refer to Figure 9, page 12, for the front waistatmscye (H-D-9) and Figure 7, page 14, for the backwaist armscye (H-B-6).

_, _ 1 I6. 4-!’ of the back cap of the sleeve equals H-B of5 — \' lllcback waist armscye, Plus ‘/5". B-Q of the front cap" ‘quals H-D of the front waist armscye, PLUS "s".

: (This extra ‘/u" is allowed to avoid stretching the" amscye when the sleeve is set in.ft P-R of the back cap equals B-6 of the back armscye.

of the front cap equals D-9 of the front armscye.T is the center between R and S.I-T-S is the total cap fullness.

AI too much fullness is obtained, the height of the cap is shortened between& notches P and Q, or if too little, the height of the cap is increased, as‘ownby the dotted lines in Figure 6.The exact amount of fullness necessary for a well-fitted sleeve is best ob-: fined through a fitting of the sleeve, in cloth, set into the armscye andt flared on the person whose size it is.

figure 7.~The sleeve can be changed into a loosely fitted sleeve like a man’s shirt&ve by lengthening the underarm, thus shortening the height of the cap.

. Three cap heights are illustrated here.lgType 1 is the cap in Figure 5.a Type 3 is the extreme opposite—-a cap which is a straight line.i This cap needs no fullness at all. The total armscye measurement is markedJ half on each side of point A. The sleeve is very loose in the underarm,.and usually is set into an armscye which is cut deeper and more oval than

V,ulmal, or is even a straight line, as in a kimono.Type 2, halfway between, is more the usual type of "shirt" sleeve found inA

sports blouses. The cap here should have a little ease, about ‘/2 to'The underarm line can be drawn at any height desired.TThe shaping of the cap proceeds in the same manner,wherever it is located,a3 described in Figures 2, 3, 4, S.27

LESSON 9THE SLACKS DRAFT

The discussion of measurements for skirts and slacks on page 6 should bereferred to before beginning the draft. The measurements used in this draft (size 14from the chart) are in the following order:12 Back length 5. Abdominal Extension2. Hip (Front and Back) 6. Waist (Front and Back)3. Front Length 7. Crotch Length (Front and Back)4. Side length 8. Knee Length

9. Bottom Width

The slacks draft begins in the same way as theskirt draft. The length measurements being longer,

8 the beginning draft looks like a floor length skirt.The instructions for both the skirt and slacksdrafts are the same through Figure 2, page 17.

The waist darts have been divided as in [Figures:4 X CROTCH Y LINE ,0 W it 7 and 8, page 20. THERE IS ONE EXCEPTION.

, . , .. , c _ \ ’ _ ,r NO NEW CENTER BACK LINE IS MADE.A-1 remains the center back line.1. 7-F-B-W is the FRONT CROTCH LENGTH.2. 8-U-2-X is the BACK CROTCH LENGTH.

Connect X and W for the crotch line.Mark Y where the crotch linemeets the side seam.

3. The front crotch line W-Y isdivided into three parts as in-dicated by the brackets.

10-W, one part, is extended through W for

KNEE UNE its own length. That is,W-11 equals 10-W.12-10-13 is the straight grain line of the front,drawn through point 10 and parallel to thecenter front line 3-W-C.

4. The back crotch line X-Y is divided into two

7 parts as indicated by the brackets. _

t Y-X is extneded through X for the length ofone part, or X-14 is one-half of X-Y.

5. The KNEE LENGTH line is drawn parallelto the bottom line at its appropriate distancefrom the waist line.

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Figure 2.

6. X-15 of the back crotch line is the same length as W-10 of the front.The straight grain line of the back (1645-17) is drawn through 15 parallelto the center back line A-2-1.

7. The BOTTOM WIDTH measurement is divided into four parts, and markedoff on line 1-D-C as follows: V

17-18 is one part.13-19 is one part.Connect Y and 18. Connect Y and 19.

8. To complete the front:19-C is extended through C so that 13-20 equals 19-13.Connect 11 and 20.Extend the knee line so that it meets 11-20.Mark the extension 21-22.The crotch curve is drawn from B to 11.The dotted line (which is ‘/z\W-11) is drawn to help shapethe Curve.

9. To complete the back:17-25 equals 17-18.24-25 equals 21-22.Connect 14, 25, and 25. This inseam line must be cor-rected so that it is the same length as the front. 23-25-26equals 20-2241.The crotch curve is drawn from 2 to 26.The dotted line drawn to help shape the curve is the samelength asin the front.

Figure 5.The completed front slack pattern.

12-13 is the straight grain line or front crease line.

Figure 4.

The completed back slack pattern.16-17 is the straight grain line or back crease line.

30

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Figure 5.

10. To add a pleat to the front crease ‘line:The front pattern is cut down the length of line 12-13, placedon a sheet of paper and spread any amount desired for the pleatdepth at point 12, the points 13 remain together.The top edge of the pleat is the straight grain line.

This draft makes an extremely fitted slack. The crotch is highand needs the addition of a belt to the slacks to complete it.

The bottom leg width can be any amount. The side seamcan be moved more to the front if desired. However the side seam isplaced, the legs should be drawn so that the straight grain line re-mains the exact center of each leg from the knee line to the bottom.If the side seam is moved more to the front it might be better to havethe back bottom width measure more than the front.

Figure 6.

Other types of short pants can be derived from the fittedslack pattern by straightening the crotch curve.

If the crotch line is straightened as in Type I, the center ofthe pants can be placed on a fold. (B-lla must equal B-11.)

This is a fitted brief, best in knitted fabrics.In Type II the position of the crotch makes the leg swing

wider from the hip. (B-11a must equal B-11.)This is a looser fitting short, suitable for underwear, orfor

outerwear when an extremely tailored short is not desirable.

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TYPE 1]:

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FIG 6

32

LESSON 10THE CULOTTE, OR DIVIDED SKIRT DRAFT

The culotte is a skirt with a crotch and leg allowance.The basic skirt pattern is used.For a discussion of crotch depth measurements, see page 6, Figure 5.

Figure 1. The Front Skirt.This is the same basic skirt pattern as Figure 6, page 20.

1. 3-7 is the Front CrotchThe crotch line 7-8 is drawn parallei to the bottom X—C.

2. 7-9 is one-third the hip line «(-3.The crotch curve is drawn from B to 9. (Refer to the slacks draft for the draw-ing of the crotch curve.)9-10 is parallel to 7-C.Connect C and .10.

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Figure 2. The Back Skirt.This is the same basic skirt pattern as Figure 4, page 18.

3. 0-7 is the Back Crotch»Depth.The crotch line is drawn parallel to the bottom S-D.

4. 7-9 is one-half the hip line 2-4.The crotch curve is drawn from 2 to 9.9-10 is parallel to 7-S. g

Connect 8 and 10. 33

Figure 5.More width can be added to the back leg to make the center back of the

skirt hang absolutely straight, concealing the division.5. The entire back pattern of Figure 2 is cut out.

Linc S‘-7-2 is cut, leaving the pieces just barely joined at 2.The two pieces are spread at S (on a new sheet of paper) a minimum of twoinches, and traced to make a new back skirt.This back is used with the front of Figure 1.

Figures 4 and 5 show the culorte cut short and a center front and back in-verted pleat added, making a pleated short.

The full length culotte can be pleated in the same way.The back pattern of Figure 3 should be used.

Figure 4.

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' 6. The crotch section (B-7-9) is cut away leaving the plain skirt.The amount of pleat width desired is added to the center front 3-B-7, as shownby the shaded section. b

The crotch section is added again to the new center front 3a-Ba-7a.Here the pleat has been made two inches deep when folded.

34

Four inches have been added from 3 to 3a to accomplish this.Line 3-B-7 is folded over to meet line 3a-Ba-7a and stitched down at least asfar as B to make the pleat.

Figure 5.Figure 5 shows the back culotte with a pleat added in the same way.

PART IIIDRAPING THE BASIC PATTERNS

At this point the introduction should be read again.The draped waist and skirt patterns, if made on the same form from which

the measurements were taken for the drafting of the basic patterns, should be thesame"as the drafted patterns.

The fabric used must be firmly woven, with good straight and cross grainlines. It is best to remove the selvages and draw a straight grain line with markingchalk or pencil and ruler. This marked line can then be pinned to the center linesof the dress form for greater accuracy. _

just as noted in the discussion on measurements, page 2, the ridge aroundthe arm plate, to ‘/2" below the plate at the side seam, is the armscye. Later, whenthe draped pattern is removed from the figure, the shoulder and cross chest widthsmay be made wider if desired, and the full width of the front increased at the arm-scye as in the drafts.

The neckline may be marked ‘/4” lower at the center front. The center ofthe waist tape is usually the waistline.

LESSON 11

The Front Waist Pattern.Figure 1.1. 2. 3. 4. The muslin straight grain line is pinned to the center line of the dress

form from the base of the neck to the waistline. The pins should be placed atthe angle indicated in the illustration.

5. The cross grain of the muslin is smoothed across the cross width of the frontso that it runs perpendicular to the center front, and is pinned at the armscyeridge.

6. The muslin is smoothed up the armscye to the shoulder and pinned.7. The muslin is smoothed along the length of the shoulder to the neckline, and

pinned.8. A pin is placed at the center of the shoulder line to keep the entire chest area

smoothly fitted.A slight amount of fullness (no more than 3/16") should be present in theneckline from 7 to 1.The material must be slashed around the neckline as indicated before it willfollow the curve of the neckline. “G l

35

36

9. The muslin is smoothed down around the armscye ridge to the underarm. Apin is placed ‘/2" below the plate at the side seam. ,

10., 11. The material is smoothed down the side seam to the waist line and pinnedalong the side seam.The muslin should now fit smoothly over the entire front except at the waist-line where the excess material caused by the curve of the bust is present, wait-ing to be removed as a bust dart.

12. The waist dart is pinned to nothing at the highest point of the bust.An additional pin or two should be placed at the waistline. The material maybe slashed below the waistline if necessary for it to lie smooth.

All seam lines, armscye, and dart lines should be marked on the fitting be-fore it is removed.

When the fitting is taken off the figure, the pins are removed and theseam lines “trued-up”. That is, the straight lines are made straight with a ruler,and the curved lines are smoothly curved.

Additional width at the armscye should be added as in Figure 4, page 11,of the front waist draft.

Additional width at the shoulder and cross chest may be added at this time.The excess material around the seam lines should be cut away to normal

seam allowances.’

LESSON 12

The Back Waist Pattern.Figure 2.1, 2, 5, 4. The muslin straight grain line is pinned to the center line of the dress

form from the base of the neck to the waistline. The pins should be placed atthe angle indicated in the illustration.

5. The cross grain of the muslin is smoothed across the cross width of the backso that it runs perpendicular to the center back, and is pinned at the armscyeridge.

6. The muslin is smoothed up the armscye to the shoulder and pinned.7. The muslin is smoothed a short way up the length of the shoulder and pinned.8. The muslin is smoothed around the base of the neckline, slashed if necessary,

and pinned at the shoulder.9. The muslin is smoothed a short way down the length of the shoulder and

pinned.The excess material in the middle of the shoulder seam is pinned as a shoulderdart going oi? to nothing at the curve of the shoulder blade, or about 3" long.

10. The material is smoothed down around the armscye ridge to the underarm.A pin is placed ‘/2" below the plate at the side seam.

11, 12. The material is smoothed down the side seam to the waist line and pinned _

along the side seam.-The muslin should now fit smoothly over the entire back except at the waist-line where the excess material caused by the curve of the back toward thewaistline is present, waiting to be removed as a waist dart.An additional pin or two should be placed at the waistline. The material maybe slashed below the waistline if necessary for it to lie smoothly.

13. The waist dart is pinned to nothing about the level of the armscye, or lower.All seam lines should be marked on the fitting before it is removed for “true-ing-up” as described in the front waist pattern, page 36, instruction 12.

LESSON 13The Front Skirt Pattern.

'

Figure 3.Enough muslinmust be used for the full length of the skirt although only

the hip section needs to be draped. The rest of theskirt can more easily be drawnflat.

. As described for the waist patterns, the selvages of the muslin should beremoved and a new straight grain line drawn.

1,, 2, _3, 4. The muslin straight grain line ‘is pinned to the center line of the dressform from the waistline to the bottom of theform. The pins should be placedat the angle indicated in the illustration, at the curve of the abdomen, the hip,and the bottom. f

5. The cross grain of the muslin is smoothed across the hip line so that it runsperpendicular to the center front, and is pinned at the side seam.

6. The muslin is smoothed up the side seam to the waistline and pinned.The muslin is smoothed a short way along the waistline and pinned.

8. From the center front the muslin is smoothed along the waistline pushing theexcess material of the waist dart about % of theway toward the side seam.The waist dart is pinned to nothing at the curve of the abdomen, or about 3"long. I

7

All the seam lines and dart lines should be marked on the fitting beforeit is removed and unpinnedp for completion. The front skirt cannot be completedbefore the back skirt is draped.

>'

38

LESSON 14The Back Skirt Pattern.Figure 4.

Enough muslin must be used for the full length of the skirt. Refer to thefront skirt introduction, Figure 3, page 57.1, 2, 3, 4. The muslin straight grain line is pinned to the center line of the dress

form from the waistline to the bottom of the form, as in the front.5. The cross grain of the muslin is smoothed across the hip line so that it runs

perpendicular to the center back, and is pinned at the side seam.

FIG4

6. The muslin is smoothed up the side seam to the waistline and pinned.7. The muslin is smoothed along the waistline almost half way, and pinned.

The skirt fits best if part of the waist dart is removed at the center back.The pins at points 1 and 2 should be removed.From point 3, the hipline, the muslin is smoothed up toward the waistline al-lowing the center back line to move away as illustrated by the shaded section.It will move away about ‘/2", on the average.New points 1 and 2 are pinned. The center back line to the ‘hip will now beoff grain, temporarily.

8. The muslin is smoothed from the center back, along the waistline almost halfway.The excess material for the back waist dart is pinned to nothing about 5-6"from the waistline.All the seam lines and dart lines should be marked on the fitting before it isremoved and unpinned for completion.

Figure 5.

Completing the back skirt pattern.The muslin fitting is pressed, if necessary, and laidflat.

9. The ORIGINAL center back line on the straight grain (the dotted line from 1

through 3) is extended for the length of the skirt by drawing on the muslinwith pencil and ruler.Point 9 is.marked. V

10. The hem line 9-10 is drawn at right angles to the center back and is the samewidth as the hipline 3—5. 10 is joined to 5.

11. A NEW center back line is drawn from the new points 1 and 2 through 3 forthe same length as 3-9.Point 11 is marked. 11 is joined to 9.The back skirt is now 1-3-11-10-5-6-1.The new. center back line will be marked the straight grain line when themuslin pattern is traced in paper.The excels;material around the seam lines should now be cut away to normalseam allowances.

FlG' 6FIG 5

Figure 6.

Completing the front skirt pattern.The muslin fitting is pressed, if necessary, and laid flat.

9. The center front line 1-3 is extended for the length of the skirt. Mark point 9.10. The hem line 9-10 is drawn at right angles to the center front and is the same

length as the hemline of the back 11-10.10 is joined to 5.The excess material around the seam lines should now be cut away to normalseam allowances.

39

40

Figure 7.All the muslin patterns should be repinned, or basted together, for a final

fitting.The darts and seam lines should be folded inside so that the’ position of

the seam lines can be more clearly seen.The sleeve pattern of Figure 5, page 26, should be cut in muslin, pinned

together, and fitted into the armscye.The completed half muslin fitting should then he placed on the dress form

for final corrections. The hemline can be evened ofl as well. After all adjustmentshave been made, the fitting is removed from the dress form, all corrections andnotches marked, and the pins removed.

The muslin pieces again should be pressed, if necessary.They can now be traced through to paper for permanent use.The tracing must be most carefully done, without stretching or twisting

the muslin. All the lines must be carefully "trued-up" and checked.

FIG7

PARTIVG RMNG T H E B A $ C P K T H m N S

Grading is a method of increasing or decreasing the size of a pattern with-out making it all over again. One size is used to make another size by moving thepattern the required amounts from a fixed point. Size 12 can be used to make size14, or size 10. Size 18 can Beused to make size 20 or size 16, etc.

The measurements for grading are obtained from the measurement chart.They are the diflerences between the measurements for the various sizes, as for ex-ample, the amount of increase or decrease in the length of the center front fromsizes 10 to 20. All width measurements are divided in half since only one-half thefront or back is graded. If the difference in the front waist measurement from size 14to 16 is 3/4", the grading measurement is 5/s".

‘

Since some of the grading measurements are as small as 1/ 16", the entireprocess must be carried out with the greatest accuracy. A sharp pointed, hard leadpencil must be used. The size graded must be cut out with great care and carefullychecked before it is used to make the next size. An error of only 1/16" in one sizewill increase to ‘/4" in four sizes.

The grading here is shown for the size range 10-20. The method is thesame whatever the size range; only the measurements differ.

Grading is easy to demonstrate but hard to explain on a written page.The skirt grade is shown first because it is so simple. The method of markingthe guide lines and shifting the pattern is the same however, whatever thepart of the garment.

'-—uzow~n

xv--92:-n

$ | Z £ I4

FIG I41

LESSON 15The Basic Skirt Grade.

Figure 1 shows the front skirt foundation pattern, size 14, as inFigure 6, page 20. The measurements in the broken arrows indicate the amountthe pattern must be increased to make the next size, or size 16. The numbersin ‘circles show the order followed in the grade.

The waistline increases 5/9" in width. (The dart moves back 1/s", leav-ing ‘/4" for the rest.)

The hip line increases -73" in width.The side seam and hem line increases ’/s" in width and '/4" in length.The center front line increases '/4" in length.

73V4 ‘ | TOP LINE

Figure 2 shows the guide lines that need to be drawn (in actual size) tomake an accurate size 16. These lines must be exactly parallel to each other or ex-actly at right angles to each other, and be made sharp and line. We do not drawdots for points as indicated here. Nor are they numbered. These are here for em-phasis and clarity.1. The center front guide line is drawn any length. A line at right angles is drawn

0''3

across the top, making point 1. l-2. The dart line point 2 is drawn as two short lines '/s” away from the center front %Uguide line and exactly parallel to it. One line crosses the top line. The other is 1 2

any place below it, marked just to help place the pattern more accurately. ‘-5 ‘J5. The waist line point 3 is drawn ~‘/3" away from the center front guide line and K

exactly parallel to it, also as two short lines. E34. The hip line point 4 is the same line as 3 since the hip line increases ~‘/s" the Z—same as the waistline. 385. The side seam and hem line point 5 is drawn '/4" below the top line and parallelto it to get the necessary increase in length, and width.Point 5 is located on the same lines as 3 and 4 because the hem line, too, in- Z /lcreases 5/s" in width just as the waist line and hip line. b

6. The center front line point 6 is marked where the hem line point 5 crosses thecenter front guide line, since it is on the same level as point 5, and increases‘/4" in length.

Figure 3. Shifting the pattern to increase the size.The pattern should be turned so that the center front line runs

horizontal or parallel to the edge of the table. It is easier to control thepattern that way.

U1\-l*.~\Qa

FIG 2

42

TOP Ll

When carefully cut om and checked, the size 16 pattern can be used tomake size 18 by following exactly the same procedure.

Figure 5. Shifting the pattern to decrease the size.

The movement of the pattern to decrease the size is exactly the reverse ofthe movement which increased it. In increasing the size, the pattern is moved awayfrom the guide line, to the left of it, moving the side seam away from the centerfront, thus adding to the width. It is also moved down the center front guide line,from the top, to increase the length.

In DECREASING the size of the pattern, the guide pattern is moved tothe right of the guide line, bringing the side seam closer to the center front, thusdecreasing the width. It is also moved up the center front guide, above the top line,to decrease the length.

The width guide lines are marked here in the same order as in Figure 2,but in reverse position. The ‘/s” mark, point 2, is marked to the right of the centerfront guide line, as are points 3 and 4.

"

The length guide lines are marked in reverse position above the top guideline. Point 6 is ‘/4" ABOVE the top line point 1. Point 5 is ‘/1" above the top lineand ~’/a" to the right of the center front guide line.

Once the guide lines are correctly marked, the procedure is the same asdescribed for Figures 3 and 4.

A size 14 pattern is used to make a size 12, etc.The BACK SKIRT FOUNDATION PATTERN is graded in the same

manner as the front.

CENTER

FRONT

GUIDE

LINE

-l:\bJ\0t

FIG 5

44

LESSON 16

The BasicWaist Grade.Figiire 1 shows the front waist foundation pattern, size 14, as in

Figure 9, page 12. The measurements in the broken arrows indicate theamount the pattern must be increased to make the next size, or size 16. Thenumbers in circles show the order followed in the grade.

The grading procedure of the waist patterns is the same as thatof the skirt, but more complicated. Figure 1 should be studied carefullyto make clear the amounts the pattern must be increased.

The neck line increases 1/16" in width and -1/16" in height.The shoulder increases ‘/s” in length.

'

The armscye increases 3/16" in length, and 3/16" in width.The side seam increases ‘/s" in length.The waist line increases 5/3" in width.The center front increases '/4" in lengdi.The cross chest width increases 3/16".The full width of front increases -73".The waist dart moves back '/n" from the center front.

¢..~.\.t=NTOP LINE

2Figure 2 shows the guide lines that need to be drawn (in actual

size) to make an accurate size 16. These lines are drawn in the same waydescribed for the skirt pattern, page 42, Figure 2.’

1. Point 1 where the center front guide line crosses the top line is the base ofii the neck line.

3 Liz]2. The neck line point 2 is drawn 1/16" above the top line and 1/16" away

u, __ from the center front guide line.d ‘J 3, 4. The shoulder and cross chest points 3 and 4 are drawn on the same linefl in as point 2 but ‘/s" away from line 2, or 3/16" away from the center frontI 9 guide line.

33 5. The armscye point 5 is drawn 3/3” from the center front guide line and '/a"below the top line.

6. The side seam point 6 is 5/8" away from the center front line and '/4'below the top line, or ‘/s” below point 5.

7. The center front length point 7 is W’ below point 1 on the center frontguide line.

o~\u~ C»-5

1

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45

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3,4:\ I

5.44 V’ 7

5 7 6

I‘ TOP LINL4;SIZE I6 ’

23‘I 11*|q

(LHe 3 _— 7

3 6/ /4 53?

FIG: 5

H64

47

" * 3

LESSON 17

The Basic Sleeve Grade.Figure 1 shows the sleeve foundation pattern, size 14, as in

Figure 5, page 26. The measurements in the broken arrows indicate theamount the pattern must be increased to make the next size, or size 16.The numbers in circles show the order followed in the grade.

The height of the sleeve cap increases 3/16". This increase isreally the total increase of the Full Length of the sleeve as there is nofurther increase in the underarm length.

The full width of the sleeve increases -?/a'', the increase beingdivided as indicated in the sleeve cap.

The wrisrline increases ‘/x" in width.

TOP LINE5 NLV...'1-

-———

05**"~l--O3{H

.-————.u‘

Figure 2 shows the guide lines that need to be drawn (in actual size) tomake an accurate size 16.These lines are drawn the same on each side of the straightgrain guide line which is the first drawn.

S

The straight grain guide line is drawn longer than the full length of thesleeve.

A top line is drawn at right angles to it for the top of the cap.1. Point 1 where the straight grain guide line crosses the top line is the center of

the sleeve cap.3, 5. The full width of sleeve line 3-5 is drawn 3/16" below the top line.

Point 5 is 3/16” from the straight grain guide line.Point 5 is 3/16" from the straight grain guide line.The distance from point 3 to Point 5 is 3/3".

Z, 4. Line 2-4, marking approximately the level of the quarter marks of the sleevecap is drawn midway between the top line and line 3-5.

5 Point 2 is 1/16" from the straight grain guide line.Point 4 is 1/ 16" from the straight grain guide line.

7, 6. Points 7 and 6, for the wristline, are on line 3-5, since there is no increase inlength for the underarm, and are 1/ 16" from the straight grain line on each side.

ix‘...

STKAIEHT

emu

GUIDE

LINE

-"O\\.b

FIG: 2.

48

Figure 3. Shifting the pattern to increase thesize.

I

Z _“ ?— 41. The size 14 sleeve pattern is placed on the

guide lines so that the points 1 meet and fthe straight grain line of the sleeve rests on 3 ,,0.05the straight grain guide line. VA small portion of the top of the cap is 2 1‘.

drawn, including the center notch. 7 L6 42. The pattern is moved so that point I of the

cap rests exactly on point 2 of the guidelines and the straight grain line rests online 2.A small portion of the capline at point 2 3 V 5'is drawn. W

3. The pattern is moved so that point I of thecap rests exactly on point 5 of the guidelines and the straight grain line rests online 3.A small portion of the cap line and under-arm line at point 5 is drawn.

4. The pattern is moved so that point 1 of the S|ZE [6cap rests exactly on point 4 of the guidelines and the straight grain line rests online 4.A small portion of the cap line at point 4is drawn.

5. The pattern is moved so that point 1 of thecap rests exactly on point 5 of the guidelines and the straight grain line rests online 5.A small portion of the cap line and under-arm line at point 5 is drawn.

6. The pattern is moved so that point .1of thecap rests exactly on point 6 of the guidelines and the straight grain line rests online 6.A small portion of the wrist and underarmlines at point 6 is drawn.

7. The pattern is moved so that point 1 of thecap rests exactly on point 7 of the guidelines and the straight grain line rests online 7.A small portion of the wrist and underarmlines at point 7 is drawn.

\N\.t:

49

1"-a-Ir 4-The rest of the pattern must now be filled in to complete

the new size 16 pattern.The size 14 pattern is used as a guide.

a. The cap line between points 1 and 2 is filled in by placing point1 of the size 14 pattern about 1/ 16" away from point 1 andmoving the pattern until the cap line blends smoothly into theline at 2.Line 1-4 is done the same way.

b. The cap line between points 3 and 2 is filled in by placing point 3 of the size14 pattern about ‘/s" away from point 3 and moving the pattern until the capline blends smoothly into the line at 2.Line 5-4 is done the same way.

c. The underarm line 3-7 is drawn by placing the size 14 sleeve underarm on points3 and 7 and drawing the line.The same is done with points 5 and 6.

d. The wrist line is drawn by centering the wrist line of the size 14 pattern betweenpoints 6 and 7 and blending the new line smoothly into the parts already drawn.

FIG4Figure 5. Shifting the pattern to decrease the size.

In the sleeve grade, the guide lines can remain the same, but the order ofthe shifting points changes. Figure 5 should be compared carefully with Figure 2.The order of the shifting points has been completely reversed. When the proceduredescribed for Figure 3 is followed, with the guide lines marked as in Figure 5, thesize of the pattern will be decreased to size 12.

50

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.

03

01O\\-9N

FIG 5

LESSON 18

The Basic Slack.-;‘Grade (and Culotte).

Figure 1 shows the front slacks foundation pattern, size 14,as in Figure 3, page 31. The measurements in the broken arrows indi-cate the amount the pattern must be increased to make the next size,or size 16. The nmbers in circles show the order followed in the grade.

The grading of the pattern is similar to diat of the skirt.The increase in the crotch line makes the only difference.The CULOTTE gradeis the same as the slacks and the skirt

grades combined.The crotch increases ‘/s” in width and '/4' in length.The waist line increases 5/3" in width. (The dart moves back

‘/s", leaving ‘/4" for the rest.)The hip line increases 5/3" in width.The outseam of the leg increases ‘la’ in length.The bottom of the leg increases ‘A’ in width.The inseam of the leg increases Vs" in length.

5'5 43CRUFCH LINE 7

59

FIG 2mum

ems

LINE

"‘

Figure 2 shows the guide lines that need to be drawn to makean accurate size 16. These lines are drawn in the same way describedfor the skirt pattern, page 42, Figure 2.1. Point 1 where the crotch line meets the inseam guide line is the

base of the crotch.2. The crotch line point. 2 is drawn ‘/x” away from the inseam guide

line, and on a line parallel to it.3. The center front point 5 is drawn on a line parallel to the crotch

line and ‘AK’ above point 2.4. The dart line point 4 is drawn on the same line as point 3 and

‘/s” away from it, on a line parallel to the inseam guide line.5, 6. The waist and hip points 5, 6 are drawn on the same line as 3

and 5/13" away from it, on a line parallel to the inseam guide line. H6 l7. Point 7 is drawn where the crotch line crosses the line from S, 6.

It is 3/s” from point 2.8. The outseam of the leg point 8 is drawn ‘/s" below the crotch line

and 5/3” from the inseam guide line.9. The bottom of the leg point 9 is drawn on the same line as 8 and

1/s" from the inseam guide line (on the some line as 2, 3).SI

Figure 3.. Shifting the pattern to increase the size.The shifting of the pattern following the guide points is

the same as described for the skirt pattern, page 45.l. The inseam line of the size 14 slacks pattern is placed on the

inseam guide line so that point 1 of the pattern rests on point1 of the guide line. A small portion of the base of the crotchand inseam lines is marked.The pattern is moved so that point I of the pattern rests ex-actly on point 2 of the guide lines and the inseam line of thepattern rests on line 3, 2, 9.A small section of the crotch line is marked at point 2.The pattern is moved so that point 1 of the pattern rests ex-actly on point 3 of the guide lines and the inseam line of thepattern rests on line 3, 2, 9.A small portion of the center front and waist lines is marked.The pattern is moved so that point 1 of the pattern rests ex-actly on point 4 of the guide lines, and the inseam line of thepattern rests on the line from 4.The dart notches are marked as well as a small portion of thewaistline.The end of the dart must be marked too.

5, 6. The pattern is moved so that point 1 of the pattern rests

52

exactly on points 5, 6 of the guide lines and the inseam line ofthe pattern rests on line 5, 7.A small portion of the waistline is marked at 5, continuingdown the side seam to the hip notch 6.The pattern is moved so that point 1 of the pattern rests ex-actly on point 7 of the guide lines and the inseam line of thepattern rests on line 5, 7.A small section of the side seam at the notch 7 is drawn.The pattern is moved so that point 1 of the pattern rests ex-actly on point 8 of the guide lines and the inseam line of thepattern rests on line 8.A small section of the side seam and bottom line is drawn.The pattern is moved so that point 1 of the pattern rests ex-actly on point 9 of the guide lines and the inseam line of thepattern rests on line 3, 2, 9.A small section of the bottom and inseam lines is drawn.

/5' Ti 3\

T6

FIG 3

SIZE I6

2%

Figure 4.

The new pattern size 16 is completed by using the size 14 pat-tern as a guide, centering it between the newly marked points, and draw-ing the complete lines, as described on page 43 for the skirt pattern.

--7 SIZE

FIG 5Figure 5. Shifting the pattern to decrease the size.

The movement of the pattern is completely reversed for de-creasing the size as discussed on page 44 for the skirt pattern. Figure 5shows how the guide lines and points look to decrease the size of thepattern.

The BACK SLACKS FOUNDATION PATTERN is graded inthe same way as the front EXCEPT FOR THE CROTCH WIDTHmeasurement.

The crotch increases 3/16" in width.

%_€*I4-4-

I

rue 6. FIGFigure 6 shows how the guide lines look for increasing the size of the

4back slacks pattern. Note the distance from point 1 to 2 is 3/16”. The rest of themeasurements are the same as in Figure 2.

53

54

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e. Bus? Po'm+ ‘co Bus’: 903M 7'!» —1'1; ~ WI. « 8 - 8'4 - av: ~ 8% - 9 -1. I834 I1 mil. :3 20"! H 2131. 20 2z’l. z» 25*!» 22 2!!’/, 2; 25%, 21]

8.BUS'?Wid+‘\T z o — z I - z 7 _ - 23*-Z<I— 2 5 - 2e—'27~9. Shoulder S\ope n'Iaoe'ma1us‘/.Io%sqn1 m :1»/ans/mm.mama’/.2ovue'a 2..v.ue=/%

IO. $hou\de.r Lengik 5'!-s S‘!-: 5”0 SW 5":€-‘I: 5% 55/. win 53/1 5% S73 6 (9 673 9/8

u. Neck Base 3*!-.|s3I4 9 e 9'» ch 41; (,1; M 63/»: to 7 IOW7’/V Io'A 7'11

42. Shoulder -|~o Side Seam Itfidtwous N =Ieus'I.us>hns'hus'Ieus°Ia u,'I.m'/.ue’/an,‘/311'/u n

:3. Avmscye ‘re Waisf We7''’: 5 B 3''. 6'45 81: em8‘/g8’/6 8'/2. 37;av as/J3:/q 83/wN, Wa}s+ now.12% Is’Ivfiu3'hne’I-wk I75!» I$‘h new new l‘13I~II7’/1 zo’/-418'!» zw.mm

as. Abdomknal Eadension us».us*h.u1=I«ns1.ze~n»hz.w.uv/.22».{As/« 2s3Iq2o’Ia2~Hq 2.3;. 257.22».

:5. Hip ta‘!-o l‘I3M1'h l%3H2o'hI‘\’|4 2w-4 2&1.2:‘!-azfilw 23‘!-4 mo.my, 233k zsv.mu.'7' W333 *0 CY°‘\'ch H3!-v I2‘): 07. W1.Wk 123/1I212. I3 nz'>I< win vs l‘5'l;|3‘H min 1314 N

08. W335’: 1'0Knee 233-N ztl zuw z~1‘h_ zusw 25 Z5’/:4 2c-.

:9. Was’: ‘co Ankle 3431-. «o «ow 40'/z voslq tn -Wu ‘-H‘/7.

20. Shoulder +oWris’t |.e’ng+h 22013 an an ‘/3 zus/a 2.0’/2. 2 - : 31¢ ztnla 2573

2». Shoulder +0ElbowLengih I33/e as-I2 I35/3 :37/3 I4. Ill’/u ms/e It/5/3

22.Underarm Length 08 as us :3 we as we we23. Upperarm Widfh N um; as I5’/2. I6 I6 '1; 07 WA.

2.». E\bow Widflx NW nsle Iz I23/a :23/u /3'/e I3’/; I37/e

25 Wrisf Widfh 65/8 631v 67/3 7 ‘1'/e "7 '/st 75/5 7 '/z

To+a| Heigh+ b5'Iz-sa ee~b8'Iz wlz-69 (97-cw;G1’/;—7o c,%—7o'I.

w€\g\'\+ 120430 :31.-N0 152-«,0 lbB.m, ta-Lnz Zoo-20$ 20$-Zio 2 \ o~Z | 5

Bra Size 3e. 33 40 42. 44 4e, 46 so

55

“ > 4 ? -——~=—a— w,w:»m—. »§F,‘l-tE’%§‘_,:$§:I§p—f2

Women's Ha\f SizesM z x z x m g m x m x m s m

;_ FullWaist Lengfh 1r.,>,w5%I1‘Io no '1'’: 153/3 lT"a u.=/.13-1.. 1'l‘Ia ue=>Vu11-/z I9 rm,‘2. Cevfier Waist! Lengih :31. usve two 153/. N 55/.um 15%; NY; ll,’/3 NH. 153/. Is u,=/J

3. Cross Shouklers Widfh NW. I5‘k vs’/. I5‘/a IUI. weum15%M. 163/. nu. n '1. ns/.,4 Cross 1121' Wicflh N7. :57. N7; :57. N’/.1571. '57‘! um :55/Jves/. to n /53/.17:/J5. Neck+oBus+ Point Io'L —row. - M —rm - um—ma.—:2 -a..Bos% Poirfi+oBusi Poini 7'!-4 - m —‘rm - 8 —ex. - 37. ~ 33/. -7. wid‘H\ I81. I‘! I1’/1 I8 20‘/1 I‘! 2|’/q 2o 22% 21 233/4 22. 2-431, 23

8.Bus‘l Widfli Zo - 2| - 22 - 25 - zv —zs —25 -9. Shudder Slope n-I. ns».nv.us=Iu1v,yevua':. Iwz :55/.u.’/s H IT/v I'D’/M75’.Io. $\1ou\dev Lengfln 5 5 S"; 5"e 5'14 57., $3/3 53>’: 572 51. 55/8 5% 5% 53/....TNeck Base 331.. 531.. q 6 9'1: (,'/-; 1'/2 (J:7’/v 63/»: IO 7 town‘/-.:2. S\\ou\der 4:» Side Seam 13’/us‘/a 10% N NV: 14% IS W’/q ls’/su5"e I53/q|$‘I; u,'4.ns°r..3. Amscye +oWaisi Uk6”’: 7 7 ‘We 7'13 1'!» 7'1» 13/. 73/, "M2 1'1. 75/. 75/....,wa'.s§ uw. - 15% - luv. - I7’/us‘/u 18% - ms/. ~ zov, _us, Abdomuha) Eflension I8’!-1153111191: No‘/-I 20% 17% 2:3/-4 I8’h 22’/q I9‘/..29/.20%av}: 2!’).us. Hip saw» was man ml. 20‘!-4 mu217»: zos/. zz‘h 2:-4. 2s‘Iu 22’/«4 zen.251.:7. Waism‘ +0Cro’rch ID’h||’h II wt: WI» umum17. us!» 12%: I2 oz-4. 121-: 1231.,

Is.Wa§$‘} +oKnee" M’!-J I q ' I z H3!» 27. 22%: Z2‘/z 223/¢

:9. Waist} +0Ank\e 35‘!-o 3s-I._ 3531»: 36 39%: 367: at-..=~Iu

2o.ShOU‘d€Y+OwViS1L9h_9fl\ 2I'N 213/3 20/2. 2.13/4 2:"/3 22v‘/a 2Z'Iq

zo. Shoulder +0Uhow Length H3!-1 am. :2. vzvu :25/s I25/e I23/uzz.Undevam Length I5‘!-u IS‘/4 lS‘f4 IS’/-a vsvu vs‘/.4 nsv...u..Upperarm Widfls N 'q"l, as I5‘/z K»: vurz Hz«+.E|bow Wid+k H‘I~o us/3 :7. 123/a vzsm I3’/a vs‘/2.zs.Wris+ WidH. (->5/3 (,3/-a 6’/3 7 “We 7'/.. 73/,

To1‘a| ‘He§gh+ 6072 an em: 61 6.27; (93 6371Weiglfir H8 I30 HN rec we I17. z o a j

Bra SIZE as 33 40 42 44 45 as56

Junior Miss Shes, lFvon+ Sfiaclc |?oa47$ac|: Fvoniqfluact Fv-UH, '6D¢k Fron-5,33-act’. Fnon4,56\cK

a. FullWaist Length I5’/3 IS.‘/a aw-o as lb‘/3 H9513 I1 «es!» 175/: I7’/a 0731:: n-/,_

2. Ceni-erWais’t length 13'!» I571. um 15% 13%: up N No‘!-4 umI(='Iz umleash

3, Cross 5\..;,..|ae.,sWichh 13513 I|l'h. N l|l"’o N313 157.. N’-4-a IS5’8 I5‘/a lb L5": «,3

4. Crossizi? Widflx 121/. N amN». 13% 04% M :5 HP/315%N5!-c Is’/-4

s_ Nec\<‘\'o Bus‘ pain? 851-4 ‘ 9 ' 9'/'4 - ‘I’/z - ‘PH " 00 '

a Bus+Po‘m++o bus+ Poin+ 6% - 1 - 1'!-v —7'/7. —73/4 - a -7. R“Widfia |(-9"! IS I1 I57: wk IUI1 I87: 01 MW ml»; 20 19-1:

8, Bus? WEN"! I1‘/-o —H3]: ~ 18']: - H‘!-r - Z0 - 2o’/4 -q S\uouHer $\ope 15% I594; l¢v"~I lb lb‘/a I913 n K-PI-a 173/;Wis ml» n-Iz.

Io. 5"\ouHer l.eng‘H\ 4’/8 47/3 5 5 5"e 5'/3 SW 5%; 53/5 53/3 5‘/2. 5'1;

u__ Neck Base 731-: 5 8 5'!» 87-: 5'1: 8": 53/4 SW4 (0 9 Ulq

:2. Shou|c|er +oSide Seam I25/e 13".. as “We 13% «W. 191-. um.N'Is usm. um15'»;

I3. Armscye +oWa'\s+ 73/» 73h ‘Pie ‘Pie 8 8 8’Ie 8'/s saw 87.. 8% av.N. Wa\s’r H ‘N2. M2. Io I2‘!-4 10%], I3 .n'I;133/» 12'!» luv. 12,

as. A\:dom’ma\ Edehsion I5 wt; 05$. 13 I61»: 13% 11 ummu usw \e'I. :5

I6. Hip I53Ms3h wk win I‘! I7. rial-4 l15I~4I8'/1. nevi; wk Ia‘!-u

:7. Waism‘ fa Cro’tc\\ Io’!-: W/4 II II": WmN3/'4 M1. «-2. Han I2‘/4 oz :2‘/.

I8. Waisf 1‘o Knee zzslu 2: 23'!» 23%. 2331:: zu-I9. WaisHo Anlde

‘

3831-; 39 34%: 3 c m ; 34 3/4 40

2o. 5hou\<§er +0Wrisi Lengflz 2.-5']-; 233/3 235/5 '23‘)!!! 23'/s ztr/31|. Shou\dev foE\\5ow Lang“: I2-3/-4 I2’/8 |'.’>‘l3 I3‘!-4 I33/3 I35/522.. Undevann Lengih IT'Ie I1’/3 I7’/3 rrrlg IT’/e I17/3

23. Upperam Wad“: |Z'Io :23/5 Iz3Iq my/s '3'/2, :57/3'24. Ellaow With‘-1 |o'h. 105/3 Io 7/3 [W 3 us/3 H 5/82:. Wvnsi Weklfk 5'12. 53/»: 51/5 (, c._.~/9 5'/q

Total Ne'\gh+ so-62 u'Iz-uu 6.5-1.1 es-cw. (.(,-e8 ee'I,-(,s1,_

We-|9h’f $5-‘lo <w— 93 l04~|0a ml-no :24-I32 use-«N

Bra Size 36 so 32- ‘st! 3: . 39-3357

About the author . . ..

Esther Pivniek was graduated from Brooklyn College tnined to teach Biology, but the country was deep in a de-

pression in 1935, and New York City needed no teachers. For want of work, she spent the summer helping her

father write his first text book on patternmaking, (Charles Kaplan was then chainnan of the Women's Garment

Design Department of the Central High School of Needle Tiades. He had been the first garment design teacher in

the New York City schools and laid the foundations for all subsequent teaching in the field.)

The work proved fascinating and Mrs. Pivnicl: began her career, tearhing patternmalring at the Traphagen School

of Fashion in New York City. writing additional books, and working on "Seventh Avenue" as a patternmalret,assistant designer and assistant in production, one of the few women so employed in the dress industry

She is currently working for a well-known Sportswear conrern in New York City.

Her long, varied experiences provide a unique background for the writing of a text which is simple, yet practical,suitable for the classroom as well as {or professional use.