EMULMETIK™ BIOPHILIC™ AMISOL™ SOFT HELIOFEEL™ PHOSPHOLIPID-BASED EMULSIFIERS

FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS

Skin constituents

• Phospholipids are essential constituents of cellular membrane. Organized in bi-layers, they form a selective and protective barrier which regulates cell life.

Membrane

PHOSPHOLIPID

GLYCOLIPID

CHOLESTEROL

PROTEIN

CARBOHYDRATE

Cell

Sources

• Soybean is one of the best sources of high quality phospholipids

• But also sunflower, egg, milk…

Manufacturing process

PURIFIED LECITHIN & PHOSPHOLIPIDS

Manufacturing process

The crude lecithin has approximately the following composition: Polar lipids 60.0 - 70.0 %

Soybean oil 27.0 - 37.0 %

Moisture 0.5 - 1.5 %

Impurities 0.5 - 2.0 %

Definitions

• Lecithin = mixture of minimum 60% polar lipids (phospholipids + glycolipids) and oil

• Phospholipids = polar lipids containing phosphorus

Fatty acids

Phosphate group

Glycerol

Hydrophilic

Lipophilic

Amphiphilic molecules: hydrophilic head and two lipophilic tails. This bipolarity is responsible for its emulsifying properties

Definitions

• Depending on the “Z” substitute, phospholipids are different molecular types:

- Phosphatidylcholine (PC) - Phosphatidylethanolamine (PE) - Phosphatidylserine (PS) - Phosphatidylinositol (PI) - Phosphatidic Acid (PA)

Phospholipid active properties

• Strong attraction to the stratum corneum: restoration of the lipidic barrier of damaged skin Repairing action, anti-dehydrating action

• Formation of a film which protects the surface of the skin from damage

responsible for irritation Protective action

• High capacity for binding water: 1 phospholipid / 23 H2O Enhancement of the retention of water in the surface and deep layers of

the skin

Properties/Benefits of phospholipids

• Technical properties - Technical emulsifying - Dispersing / Wetting - Delivery system

• Active properties

- Restructuring - Film forming - Hydrating - Calming

100% active formulas

Sensorial profile

Characteristic "Phospholipid touch": • Cool touch • Slickness • Non-tacky • Soft

Emulmetik™

Biophilic™

• Natural O/W emulsifiers

• Form biomimetic lamellar network

• Combine technological function and skin treating properties • Innovative texture Sophisticated, soft and rich skin feel INCI name: Biophilic™ H: Hydrogenated Lecithin (and) C12-16 Alcohols (and) Palmitic Acid Biophilic™ S: Lecithin (and) C12-16 Alcohols (and) Palmitic Acid

Key points

Natural lamellar emuslifier

• Patented combination of phospholipids with certain type of fatty acids and fatty alcohols to improve their natural emulsifying properties and to develop the lamellar network

• Biophilic™ gives very stable creams capable of carrying up to 30% by

weight of oil

• Oil-drops are stabilized in the lamellar structure

Natural lamellar emulsifier

• Phospholipids organize in bi-layer to form lamellar emulsion

Natural lamellar emulsifier

• Lamellar emulsion mimics skin structure for a perfect biocompatibility and tolerance

Lamellar structure of a gel with Biophilic™(without oil)

Lamellar structure of a cream with Biophilic™

Oil drops

High skin tolerance

In vitro citotoxicity using the MTT assay on human normal epidermal keratinocytes. Tested dose: 0.008%

Active properties

• When applied on the skin, lamellar structure forms a thin film which prevents water loss or acts as a reservoir of water and biologically active molecules which are slowly released to the stratum corneum.

• Film formation • Prevention of water loss • Long-lasting effect • Delivery system

Skin

Emulsion

Phospholipid bilayers

Restructuring properties

Biophilic™ helps restore cutaneous barrier of damaged skin.

Rich textures

The Biophilic™ range contains two references with different lecithins:

• The hydrogenated lecithin in Biophilic™ H provides very important thickening properties and allows to formulate white and odorless emulsions from cream to butter.

• Biophilic™ S contains unsaturated lecithin, creating softer and more fluid off-white textures from lotion to cream.

Process

Step 1 . Pellets of Biophilic™ H added into the water phase

Process

Step 2. Hydration step. Melt Biophilic™ H at constant temperature (75-80°C) under slow stirring during 20-30 mn above 65°C

Process

Step 3.Emulsification step. Add the oil phase and stir 5 min

Process

Step 4. After 5 min: a coarse emulsion is formed (unstable and off-white)

Process

Step 5. Homogenization at maximum speed at 80°C: the emulsion becomes

white, smooth and homogeneous

Process

Step 6. Cool down the emulsion under slow stirring for 20 to 30 minutes minimum

Process

Step 7. Aspect

T0+24h T0

Tolerance studies

• Skin Irritation (single patch test) (concentration tested: 10%) • Eye Irritation (concentration tested: 10%) • Sensibilization (single patch test) (concentration tested: 10%) • Cytotoxicity (MTT dosage on EPISKIN® Model ) (concentration tested: 5%) • Phototoxicity

Ecotoxicity studies • Biodegradability (Biophilic™ H)

Excellent Safety Profile

Product information

INCI name: Biophilic™H: Hydrogenated Lecithin (and) C12-16 Alcohols (and) Palmitic Acid Biophilic™S: Lecithin (and) C12-16 Alcohols (and) Palmitic Acid Appearance Biophilic™H: Beige to light grey pellets Biophilic™S: Light yellow pellets Recommended dosage 3 - 6% Ecocert/Cosmos status Registered

Product information

Formulation Hydrate for 20 minutes above 65°C Optimum pH 5 - 7 Applications Lotions to butter emulsions for: • Skin care

• Suncare • Make-up

On the market…

CHANEL Précision Solution Déstressante

NUXE Lait nourrissant confort Spa Tonific Crème Fraîche Concentrée

CHANEL Sublimage range

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ESTHEDERM SENSI SYSTEM - Crème repos biomimétique

NIVEA Energy Flash

ESTEE LAUDER Resilience Lift Extreme

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DIOR Ultimeyes

YVES SAINT LAURENT Teint de jour

NUSKIN Tru face instant line corrector

On the market…

SANOFLORE/L’OREAL

Nourishing botanical balm

Dr BRANDT Time arrest

Milky Aqua Cream 9.202.06 C88

* Distributed in France by Lucas Meyer Cosmetics

Nutricream 9.176.01 C84 ECO

* Distributed in France by Lucas Meyer Cosmetics

AMISOL™ SOFT

• Natural lamellar O/W emulsifier

• Combines technological function and skin treating properties • More polyvalent

• High skin tolerance

• Polysensorial: light, soft, velvet and cool skin feel

Key points

• Unsaturated lecithin - Penetration promoter - Lower viscosity - Cost effective

• Co emulsifier - Stability improvement

• Phytosterols

- Biomimetic lamellar network - Lower viscosity

• Fatty alcohol

- Lamellar network promoter

Properties of the ingredients

• Wider range of viscosity

• Larger range of pH

• Higher quantity of electrolytes

2nd generation of lamellar emulsifier

Protective action

Amisol™ Soft maintains the protective function of the stratum corneum

High skin tolerance

In vitro cytotoxicity using the MTT assay on human normal epidermal keratinocytes. Tested dose: 0.008%

Process

1 . 2 methods

• Method 1: (water phase + Amisol™ Soft) + oil phase

• Method 2: water phase + (Amisol™ Soft + oil phase)

Process

Step 1 . Pellets of Amisol™ Soft added into the oil phase

Process - Method 2

Step 2. Heat oil phase at 70-80°C

Oil phase melted at 80°C

Process - Method 2

Step 3. Add oil phase into water phase and keep the mixture under slow stirring (300 rpm) for 20 to 30 minutes to hydrate the phospholipids. Temperature should not drop below 65°C during this step.

Step 4. Increase the rate of stirring to maximum setting

Process - Method 2

Step 5. Homogenization for 2 min with high speed mixer (rotor/stator)

Process - Method 2

Step 6. Cooling step. Cool down the emulsion under slow stirring for 20 to 30 minutes minimum

Process - Method 2

Step 7. Aspect.

T0 T0+24h

Tolerance studies

• Skin Irritation (single patch test) (concentration tested: 10%)

• Eye Irritation (investigation on SICR cell strain) (concentration tested: 10%)

• Sensibilization (HRIPT) (concentration tested: 10%)

• Mutagenicity (AMES test)

Excellent Safety Profile

Product information

INCI name: Behenyl Alcohol (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) Lecithin (and) Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols Appearance Light yellow pellets Recommended dosage 3 - 6% Ecocert/Cosmos status Registered

Product information

Formulation Hydrate for 20 minutes above 65°C Optimum pH 4 - 8 Applications

Lotions to creams: • Skin care • Sensitive skin • Baby care • Suncare • Make-up

After Shave Balm 7.047.01 C60 ECO

* Distributed in France by Lucas Meyer Cosmetics

On the market…

DIOR Miss Dior Chérie Crème Soufflée

COLLISTAR Hydro-crema gel

KORRES Oak Night Cream

HELIOFEEL™

• Natural O/W emulsifier

• Easy-to-use • Polyvalent textures

• High skin tolerance

• Moisturizing action

Key points

• Hydrogenated phospholipids from sunflower

• Glyceryl stearate citrate

• Polyglyceryl-3 stearate

INCI name Glyceryl stearate citrate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 stearate (and) Hydrogenated lecithin

Natural complex

• Compatible with electrolytes

• Compatible with sunscreens (physical and chemical) and pigments

• Stable over a wide range of pH

Easy-to-use

• Fluid emulsions when used alone

• Cream emulsions when combined with a thickener

• Light skin feel + Phospholipid Touch

• Stable emulsion with up to 40% of oil phase (at 4% of Heliofeel™)

• Viscosity increases with increasing Heliofeel™ and oil phase contents

Polyvalent textures

High skin tolerance

In vitro cytotoxicity using the MTT assay on human normal epidermal keratinocytes. Tested dose: 0.008%

Moisturizing action

Process

Step 1. Pellets of Heliofeel™ added into the oil phase

Process

Step 2. Heat water phase and oil phase at 70-80°C

Oil phase melted at 80°C

Process

Step 3. Emulsification step. Add the oil phase into the water phase under strong stirring (3000 rpm) for 3 min

Process

Step 4. Cool down under medium stirring. Add the oil phase into the water phase under strong stirring (3000 rpm) for 3 min

Process

Step 5. Aspect.

T0 T0+24h

Tolerance studies

• Skin Irritation (single patch test) (concentration tested: 10%)

• Eye Irritation (investigation on SICR cell strain) (concentration tested: 10%)

• Mutagenicity (AMES test)

Ecotoxicity studies • Biodegradability

• Aquatic toxicity

Excellent Safety Profile

Product information

INCI name: Glyceryl Stearate Citrate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate (and) Hydrogenated Lecithin Appearance Yellowish pellets Recommended dosage 2 - 6% Ecocert/Cosmos status Registered

Product information

Formulation

Add into oil phase and heat at 70-80°C No hydration phase Optimum pH 4 - 8 Applications

Spray to creams emulsions for: • Skin care • Suncare • Make-up

Rebalancing Cream 9.180.03 C84

* Distributed in France by Lucas Meyer Cosmetics

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DR BRANDT Time Arrest Eye serum

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Features and Benefits

Summary

2015-12-09