Frommer's Philadelphia Day by Day

start

finish

S. Colum

bus Blvd.

Lombard St.

S. 4

th S

t.

S. C

olum

bus

Bl

DockSt.

Gaskill St.

Monroe St.

Philip Pl

S. Washington Sq

Kenilworth St.

S. L

eith

gow

St.

Manning St.

S. 3

rd S

t.

Kater St.

Locust St.

Locust St.

Addison St.

S. 7

th S

t.

Rodman St.

S. A

mer

ican

St.

S. R

eese

St.

Old

2nd

St.

S. 2

nd S

t.

S. M

arsh

all S

t.

S. F

ront

St.

S. M

ildre

d S

t.

S. 2

nd S

t.

Bainbridge St.

S. 8

th S

t.

South St.South St.

Dock St.

Cypress St.

Pine St.

S. 7

th S

t.

Ionic St.

S. 6

th S

t.

Chestnut St.

Spruce St.

Walnut St.

Delancey St.

Monroe St.

S. D

arie

n St

.

S. P

hilip

St.

S. A

mer

ican

St.

Naudain St.S. Philip St.

De

law

are

Riv

er

WashingtonSquare

VeteransMemorial Park

Starr GardenRec Center

WASHINGTON SQUARE

WEST

SOCIETY HILL

SOUTHSTREET

FABRIC ROW

JEWELERS' ROWPENN’S

LANDING

IndependenceHall

pedestrianbridge

S. Colum

bus Blvd.

Lombard St.

S. 4

th S

t.

S. C

olum

bus

Blv

d.

DockSt.

Gaskill St.

Monroe St

Philip Pl.

S. Washington Sq

Kenilworth St.

S. L

eith

gow

St.

Manning St.

S. 3

rd S

t.

Kater St.

Locust St.

Locust St.

Addison St.

S. 7

th S

t.

Rodman St.

S. A

mer

ican

St.

S. R

eese

St.

Old

2nd

St.

S. 2

nd S

t.

S. M

arsh

all S

t.

S. F

ront

St.

Mild

red

St.

S. 2

nd S

t.

Bainbridge St.

S. 8

th S

t.

South St.South St.

Dock St.

Cypress St.

Pine St.

S. 7

th S

t.

Ionic St.

S. 6

th S

t.

Chestnut St.

Spruce St.

Walnut St.

Delancey St.

Monroe St

S. D

arie

n St

.

S. P

hilip

St.

S. A

mer

ican

St.


WashingtonSquare



LibertyBell Center

SOCIETY HILL

SOUTHSTREET

FABRICROW

JEWELERS' ROWPENN’S

LANDING

IndependenceHall

pedestrianbridge

9

87

6 4

210

1

3

35

95

dayBYday™

withfoldout

map

Philadelphiad

d.

rteb tbebebbLLL trtLiberttyyynterCBe enterCee t rBBell Center

23 Smart Ways to See the City

™

Contents 16 Favorite Moments 1

1 The Best Full-Day Tours 7The Best in One Day 8The Best in Two Days 12The Best in Three Days 16

2 The Best Special Interest Tours 21Philadelphia Early America 22Art Philly-Style 28Philly With Kids 36What Would Rocky Do? 42Romantic Philadelphia 46

3 The Best Neighborhood Tours 49Old City 50Society Hill 54City Hall/Midtown 58Rittenhouse 62Fairmount 66University City 70

4 The Best Shopping 73Shopping Best Bests 76Shopping A to Z 77

5 The Best of the Outdoors 85Fairmount Park by Bike 86Park It: Five Squares 90Penn’s Landing 94

COPYRIG

HTED M

ATERIAL

6 The Best Dining 97Dining Best Bets 98Dining A to Z 102

7 The Best Nightlife 113Nightlife Best Bets 114Nightlife A to Z 115

8 The Best of Arts & Entertainment 123Arts & Entertainment Best Bets 124Arts & Entertainment A to Z 125

9 The Best Hotels 133Hotel Best Bets 134Hotels A to Z 137

10 The Best Day Trips & Excursions 143The Best of Brandywine Valley 144The Best of Lancaster County 148The Best of Atlantic City 154

The Savvy Traveler 157Before You Go 158Getting There 160Getting Around 161Fast Facts 161A Brief History 168Philadelphia’s Architecture 169Toll-free Numbers & Websites 172

Index 175

15TH-16TH

12TH-13TH

LOMBARD-SOUTH

WALNUT-LOCUST

RACE-VINECHINATOWN

9TH-10TH

8TH 8TH 2ND

5TH11TH13TH

JUNIPERCITYHALL

15TH

15TH19TH22ND30TH

N. F

ront

St.

S. 5

th S

t.

S. B

road

St.

S. 1

7th

St.

S. 1

3th

St.

S. 1

3th

St.

N. 7

th S

t.

N. 7

th S

t.

S. 2

1st S

t.

Race St.Race St.

S. Colum

bus Blvd.

Lombard St.Lombard St.Lombard St.

S. 4

th S

t.S.

4th

St.

Bainbridge St.

Kater St.

Callowhill St.

N. C

olum

bus

Blv

d.

S. C

olum

bus

Blv

d.

Queen St.

Wood St.Wood St.

Naudain St.

Pearl St.

Cuthbert St.

Carlton St.

Benjamin Franklin Pkwy

S. Q

uinc

e St

.

Florist St.

Fitzwater St.

N. J

unip

er S

t.

Waverly St.

N. 2

4th

St.

Madison Sq

Schu

ykill

Ave

. W

Winter St.

DockSt.

Quarry St.

Gaskill St.

S. D

elhi

St.

Clinton St.

Waverly St.

Latimer St.

Moravian St.

Sansom St.

S. Penn Sq.

Park Towne Pl

S. V

an P

elt S

t.

Letit

ia S

t.

Fulton St.

S. B

ank

St.

Walden St.

Monroe St.

Philip Pl

S. Washington Sq

Kenilworth St.S. L

eith

gow

St.

N. 1

2th

St.

Manning St.

Chancellor St.

Ionic St.

S. 3

rd S

t.

Irving St.

N. 7

th S

t.

S. S

arta

in S

t.

Kater St.

Webster St.

Ludlow St.

Locust St.

Locust St.

Catharine St.

N. C

rosk

ey S

t.

S. 1

8th

St.

S. 1

8th

St.

Addison St.

S. P

ercy

St.

Arch St.Arch St.

S. Je

ssup

St.

Ranstead St.

S. 1

0th

St.

S. 7

th S

t.

S. W

atts

St.

Cypress St.

S. 7

th S

t.

Carlton St.

Webster St.

Wood St.

Rodman St.

N. W

ater

St.

Vine St.Vine St.

Vine St.

Rodman St. Rodman St.

S. A

mer

ican

St.

Grays

Ferry

Ave

.

Pearl St.

N. 1

0th

St.

Commerce St.

S. 2

4th

St.

S. 2

6th

St.

N. 5

th S

t.

Arch St.

FreewayTunnel

FreewayTunnel

Walnut St.

S. F

airh

ill S

t.


Race St.

S. R

eese

St.

Rodman St.

Carlton St.

Old

2nd

St.

S. 2

nd S

t.

Addison St.

Cuthbert St.

Fulton St.

Vine St.

Panama St.

S. M

arsh

all S

t.

N. B

road

St.

Ranstead St. S. F

ront

St.

Kater St.

Clymer St. Clymer St.

Manning St.

S. Swanson St.

Fulton St.

S. 1

9th

St.

N. Front St.

S. V

an P

elt S

t.

Locust St. Locust St.

Cherry St.Cherry St.

S. M

ildre

d S

t.

Pemberton St.

S. 2

nd S

t.

Irving St.

Cypress St.

S. Ju

nip

er S

t.

S. 2

nd S

t.

Cherry St.

Filbert St.Filbert St.

Bainbridge St.

Market St. Market St. Market St.

S. 2

3rd

St.

Vine St.N

. 23r

d S

t.

N. 1

9th

St.

Panama St.

S. 8

th S

t.

N. 2

0th

St.

N. 2

2nd

St.

S. 1

1th

St.

South St.

Webster St.

S. 1

5th

St.

S. H

icks

St.

S. C

lifto

n St

.

S. 2

0th

St.

Appletree St.

S. 1

9th

St.

South St. South St. South St.

S. 2

3rd

St.

Moravian St.

Ranstead St.

S. 1

1th

St.

N. 9

th S

t.

N. 8

th S

t.

E. P

assy

unk

Ave.

Waverly St.

Ionic St.

Dock St.

Cypress St.Cypress St.

Pemberton St.

Sansom St.

N. 1

7th

St.

S. P

ercy

St.

Pine St. Pine St. Pine St.

S. T

aney

St.

S. 2

5th

St.

Fulton St.

Delancey St.


N. 1

0th

St.

N. 1

6th

St.

S. 1

6th

St.

S. 1

5th

St.

S. 1

6th

St.

S. 7

th S

t.

Ionic St.

S. 1

0th

St.

S. 2

2nd

St.

S. 2

2nd

St.

Catharine St.

Christian St. Christian St.

N. 5

th S

t.

Fitzwater St.

John F Kennedy Blvd.

S. 6

th S

t.

Church St.

Cuthbert St.

N. V

an P

elt S

t. Spring St.

S. W

atts

St.

S. W

atts

St.

Clymer St.

Chestnut St. Chestnut St. Chestnut St.

Manning St.

Bainbridge St.

Spring St.

Spruce St. Spruce St. Spruce St.

N. 3

rd S

t.

Walnut St.

Catharine St.

Delancey St.

N. W

ater

St.

S. 1

2th

St.

S. 1

2th

St.

Monroe St.Fitzwater St. Fitzwater St.

Naudain St.

Clover St.

N. W

atts

St.

N. M

ole

St.

Appletree St.

Ludlow St.

St James St.

Chancellor St.

S. S

chel

l St. S.

Dar

ien

St.

S. H

utch

inso

n St

.

S. P

hilip

St.

S. A

mer

ican

St.

Naudain St.

N. New St.

Appletree St.

Elfreths Aly

N. M

arvi

ne S

t.

N. C

lari

on S

t. Summer St.

Vine Street Expy

De

law

are

Riv

er

Schuylki l l R

iver

LoganCircle

FranklinSquare

LovePark

SegerPark

WashingtonSquareRittenhouse

Square

IndependenceNational

Historical Park


PalumboPlayground


SchuylkillRiver Park

FitlerSquare

US. Mint

City Hall

The BourseLibertyBell Center

IndependenceVisitor Center

NationalConstitution

CenterBetsyRossHouse

PennsylvaniaConvention

Center

KimmellCenter Pennsylvania

Hospital

WASHINGTON. SQUARE

WEST

SOCIETY HILL

SOUTHSTREET

RITTENHOUSE. SQUAREDISTRICT

PARKWAY/MUSEUMSDISTRICT

GRADUATE. HOSPITALDISTRICT

CHINATOWN

OLD CITY

PENN. CENTER

HAWTHORNE

BELLAVISTA

POINTBREEZE ITALIAN

MARKET

FABRIC ROW

ANTIQUE. ROW

JEWELERS' ROW PENN’SLANDING

IndependenceHall

pedestrianbridge

30thStreetStation

SuburbanStation

Market EastStation

Pier 3

Pier 5

15TH-16TH

12TH-13TH

LOMBARD-SOUTH

WALNUT-LOCUST

RACE-VINECHINATOWN

9TH-10TH

8TH 8TH 2ND

5TH11TH13TH

JUNIPERCITYHALL

15TH

15TH19TH22ND

N. F

ront

St.

S. 5

th S

t.

S. B

road

St.

S. 1

7th

St.

S. 1

3th

St.

S. 1

3th

St.

N. 7

th S

t.

S. 2

1st S

t.

Race St.Race St.

S. Colum

bus Blvd.

Lombard St.Lombard St.Lombard St.

S. 4

th S

t.S.

4th

St.

Bainbridge St.

Kater St.

Callowhill St.

N. C

olum

bus

Blv

d.

S. C

olum

bus

Blv

d.

Queen St.

Wood St.Wood St.

Naudain St.

Pearl St.

Cuthbert St.

Carlton St.


S. Q

uinc

e St

.

Florist St.

Fitzwater St.

N. J

unip

er S

t.

Waverly St.

N. 2

4th

St.

Madison Sq

Winter St.

DockSt.

Quarry St.

Gaskill St.

S. D

elhi

St.

Clinton St.

Waverly St.

Latimer St.

Moravian St.

Sansom St.

S. Penn Sq.

Park Towne Pl

S. V

an P

elt S

t.

Letit

ia S

t.

Fulton St.

S. B

ank

St.

Walden St.

Monroe St.

Philip Pl

S. Washington Sq

Kenilworth St.S. L

eith

gow

St.

N. 1

2th

St.

Manning St.

Chancellor St.

Ionic St.

S. 3

rd S

t.

Irving St.

N. 7

th S

t.

S. S

arta

in S

t.

Kater St.

Webster St.

Ludlow St.

Locust St.

Locust St.

Catharine St.

N. C

rosk

ey S

t.

S. 1

8th

St.

S. 1

8th

St.

Addison St.

S. P

ercy

St.

Arch St.Arch St.

S. Je

ssup

St.

Ranstead St.

S. 1

0th

St.

S. 7

th S

t.

S. W

atts

St.

Cypress St.

S. 7

th S

t.

Carlton St.

Webster St.

Wood St.

Rodman St.

N. W

ater

St.

Vine St.Vine St.

Vine St.

Rodman St. Rodman St.

S. A

mer

ican

St.

Pearl St.

N. 1

0th

St.

Commerce St.

S. 2

4th

St.

S. 2

6th

St.

N. 5

th S

t.

.

aynel

Walnut St.


Race St.

S. R

eese

St.

Rodman St.

Carlton St.

Old

2nd

St.

S. 2

nd S

t.

Addison St.

Cuthbert St.

Fulton St.

Vine St.

Panama St.

S. M

arsh

all S

t.

N. B

road

St.

Ranstead St. S. F

ront

St.

Kater St.

Clymer St. Clymer St.

Manning St.

S

Fulton St.

S. 1

9th

St.

N. Front St.

S. V

an P

elt S

t.

Locust St. Locust St.


S. M

ildre

d S

t.

Pemberton St.

S. 2

nd S

t.

Irving St.

Cypress St.

S. Ju

nip

er S

t.

S. 2

nd S

t.

Cherry St.

Filbert St.Filbert St.

Bainbridge St.

Market St. Market St. Market St.

S. 2

3rd

St.

Vine St.N

. 23r

d S

t.

N. 1

9th

St.

Panama St.

S. 8

th S

t.

N. 2

0th

St.

N. 2

2nd

St.

S. 1

1th

St.

South St.

Webster St.

S. 1

5th

St.

S. H

icks

St.

S. C

lifto

n St

.

S. 2

0th

St.

Appletree St.

S. 1

9th

St.

South St. South St. South St.

S. 2

3rd

St.

Moravian St.

Ranstead St.

S. 1

1th

St.

N. 9

th S

t.

N. 8

th S

t.

E. P

assy

unk

Ave.

Waverly St.

Ionic St.

Dock St.

Cypress St.Cypress St.

Pemberton St.

Sansom St.

N. 1

7th

St.

S. P

ercy

St.

Pine St. Pine St. Pine St.

S. 2

5th

St.

Fulton St.

Delancey St.


N. 1

0th

St.

N. 1

6th

St.

S. 1

6th

St.

S. 1

5th

St.

S. 1

6th

St.

S. 7

th S

t.

Ionic St.

S. 1

0th

St.

S. 2

2nd

St.

S. 2

2nd

St.

Catharine St.

Christian St. Christian St.

N. 5

th S

t.

Fitzwater St.

John F Kennedy Blvd.

S. 6

th S

t.

Church St.

Cuthbert St.

N. V

an P

elt S

t. Spring St.

S. W

atts

St.

Clymer St.

Chestnut St. Chestnut St. Chestnut St.

Manning St.

Bainbridge St.

Spring St.

Spruce St. Spruce St. Spruce St.

N. 3

rd S

t.

Walnut St.

Catharine St.

Delancey St.

N. W

ater

St.

S. 1

2th

St.

S. 1

2th

St.

Monroe St.Fitzwater St. Fitzwater St.

Naudain St.

Clover St.

N. W

atts

St.

N. M

ole

St.

Appletree St.

Ludlow St.

St James St.

Chancellor St.

S. S

chel

l St. S.

Dar

ien

St.

S. H

utch

inso

n St

.

S. P

hilip

St.

S. A

mer

ican

St.

Naudain St.

N. New St.

Appletree St.

Elfreths Aly

N. M

arvi

ne S

t.

N. C

lari

on S

t. Summer St.

Vine Street Expy

Schuylki l l R

iver

LoganCircle

FranklinSquare

LovePark

SegerPark

WashingtonSquareRittenhouse

Square


Historical Park


PalumboPlayground


FitlerSquare

US. Mint

City Hall

The BourseLibertyBell Center

IndependenceVisitor Center

NationalConstitution

CenterBetsyRossHouse

PennsylvaniaConvention

Center

KimmellCenter Pennsylvania

Hospital

WASHINGTON SQUARE

WEST

SOCIETY HILL

SOUTHSTREET

RITTENHOUSE SQUAREDISTRICT

PARKWAY/MUSEUMSDISTRICT

GRADUATE HOSPITALDISTRICT

CHINATOWN

OLD CITY

PENN CENTER

HAWTHORNE

BELLAVISTA

POINTBREEZE ITALIAN

MARKET

FABRIC ROW

ANTIQUE. ROW

JEWELERS' ROW PENN’SLANDING

IndependenceHall

pedestrianbridge

SuburbanStation

Market EastStation

Pier 3

Pier 5

P P

M

M

MM

P

PM MMMM

MTTTT

M

95

95

6

676

676

0

0 1/4 mile

0.25 kilometer

CENTRALPHILADELPHIA

110˚ F

100˚ F

50˚ F

60˚ F

70˚ F

80˚ F

90˚ F

40˚ F

32˚ F

20˚ F

10˚ F

0˚ F

-10˚ F

-20˚ F

To convert F to C: subtract 32 and

multiply by 5/9 (0.555)To convert C to F:

multiply by 1.8and add 32

40˚ C

30˚ C

20˚ C

10˚ C

-18˚ C

0˚ C

-10˚ C

-30˚ C

32˚ F = 0˚ C

To convert.........................U.S. gallons to liters......................Liters to U.S. gallons.....................U.S. gallons to imperial gallons....Imperial gallons to U.S. gallons....Imperial gallons to liters...............Liters to imperial gallons..............

multiply by3.790.260.831.204.550.22

1 liter = 0.26 U.S. gallon1 U.S. gallon = 3.8 liters

To convert.......................... Ounces to grams.........................Grams to ounces..........................Pounds to kilograms.....................Kilograms to pounds....................

multiply by28.350.035

0.452.20

1 gram = 0.04 ounce1 kilogram = 2.2 pounds

1 ounce = 28 grams1 pound = 0.4555 kilogram

To convert......................... inches to centimeters....................centimeters to inches....................feet to meters................................meters to feet................................yards to meters..............................meters to yards..............................miles to kilometers........................kilometers to miles........................

multiply by2.54

0.39 0.30

3.28 0.91

1.091.610.62

1 mile = 1.6 km1 km = 0.62 mile

1 ft = 0.30 m1 m = 3.3 ft

Fold Foldspine=10mm

1 The Best Full-Day Tours

COPYRIG

HTED M

ATERIAL

8Th

e B

est

Full-

Day

To

urs The Best in One Day

Previous Page: A rendering of The Thinker from the Rodin Museum.

CHINATOWN

8TH 8TH

2ND

5TH

N. F

ront

St.

N. 7

th S

t.

Race St.

Lombard St.

S. 4

th S

t.

N. C

olum

bus

Blv

d.

S. C

olum

bus

Blv

d.

Willow St.

Florist St.

New St.

DockSt.

Quarry St.

Gaskill St.

Letit

ia S

t.

S. B

ank

St.

Philip Pl

S. Washington Sq

Kenilworth St.

Manning Walk

S. L

eith

gow

St.

Manning St.

Ionic St.

S. 3

rd S

t.

N. 7

th S

t.

Kater St.

Locust St.

Locust St.

Addison St.

Callowhill St.

Arch St.

S. 7

th S

t.

Wood St.

Rodman St.

S. A

mer

ican

St.

N. 5

th S

t.

Race St.

S. R

eese

St.

Old

2nd

St.

S. 2

nd S

t.

S. M

arsh

all S

t.

S. F

ront

St.

N. Front St.


S. 2

nd S

t.Filbert St.

Cuthbert St.

Ludlow St.

Bainbridge St.

Market St.

Vine St.

S. 8

th S

t.

South St.South St.

Ranstead St. Ranstead St.

N. 8

th S

t.

Dock St.

Cypress St.

Sansom St.

Pine St.

S. 7

th S

t.

Ionic St.

N. 5

th S

t.

S. 6

th S

t.

Church St.Church St.

Chestnut St.

Spruce St.

N. 3

rd S

t.

Bre

ad S

t.

N. 4

th S

t.

Walnut St.

Delancey St.

N. W

ater

St.

S. P

hilip

St.

S. A

mer

ican

St.


N. New St.

Appletree St.

ElfrethsAlley

Vine Street Expy

FranklinSquare

WashingtonSquare


Historical Park



US Mint

The Bourse

SOCIETY HILL

SOUTHSTREET

OLD CITY

JEWELERS'ROW

CHINATOWN

8TH 8TH

2ND

5TH

N. F

ront

St.

N. 7

th S

t.

t.

Lombard St.

S. 4

th S

t.

N. C

olum

bus

Blv

d.

S. C

olum

bus

Blv

d.

Willow St.

Florist St.

New St.

DockSt.

Quarry St.

Gaskill St.

Letit

ia S

t.

S. B

ank

St.

Philip Pl

S. Washington Sq

K il th St

Manning Walk

Leith

gow

St.

Manning St.

Ionic St.

S. 3

rd S

t.

N. 7

th S

t.

Kater St.

Locust St.

Locust St.

Addison St.

Callowhill St.

Arch St.

S. 7

th S

t.

Wood St.

Rodman St.

Am

eric

an S

t.

N. 5

th S

t.

Race St.

S. R

eese

St.

Old

2nd

St.

S. 2

nd S

t.

arsh

all S

t.

S. F

ront

St.

N. Front St.


S. 2

nd S

t.Filbert St.

Cuthbert St.

Ludlow St.

Bainbridge St.

Market St.

Vine St.

S. 8

th S

t.

South St.South St.


N. 8

th S

t.

Dock St.

Cypress St.

Sansom St.

Pine St.

S. 7

th S

t.

Ionic St.

N. 5

th S

t.

S. 6

th S

t.


Chestnut St.

Spruce St.

N. 3

rd S

t.

Bre

ad S

t.

N. 4

th S

t.

Walnut St.

Delancey St.

N. W

ater

St.

S. P

hilip

St.

S. A

mer

ican

St.


N. New St.

Appletree St.

ElfrethsAlley

Vine Street Expy

FranklinSquare

WashingtonSquare


Historical Park



US Mint

The Bourse

SOCIETY HILL

SOUTHSTREET

OLD CITY

JEWELERS'ROW

M

PM MM

95

95

676

676

9

8

7

5

4

3

2

10

1

36

1

4

3

2 7

105

8

9

36Independence Visitor Center

Independence Hall

Liberty Bell

National Constitution Center

Christ Church Burial Ground

Fork Etc.

Franklin Court

Christ Church

Betsy Ross House

Elfreth’s Alley

200 yds0

0 200 m

SEPTA Subway

Trolley

Church

Synagogue

T

M

9The B

est in O

ne

Day

This 1-day tour offers a glimpse of early Philadelphia, and, therefore, insight into early America—starting with the Revolu-

tion. For the next few days, the country’s “most historic square mile” will be your stomping grounds: Wear comfortable shoes, and don’t be afraid to chat up the costumed Colonials. START: Independence

Visitor Center, 6th & Market sts.

1 ★★ Independence Visitor Center. This welcome center, with its self-service kiosks, concierge ser-vices, umpteen maps and brochures, and box office for tickets to Indepen-dence Hall and historic homes isn’t just a great first stop for a tour of his-toric Philadelphia, it’s a great first stop for any tour of Philadelphia.

@ 1⁄2 hr. 6th & Market sts. y 800/537-7676. www.independencevisitorcenter.com. Daily from 8:30am.

2 ★★★ Independence Hall. Where it all went down: the Declara-tion of Independence, the Articles of Confederation, and the U.S. Consti-tution. Squeeze into the stately spaces where George Washington (1732–1799), Thomas Jefferson (1743–1826), John Adams (1735–1826), Benjamin Franklin (1706–1790), and their Colonial brethren conceived of a country affording its citizens “life, liberty and the pur-suit of happiness.” Don’t miss

Washington’s “Rising Sun Chair,” rare maps of the 13 colonies, and the tipstaff (a wooden and brass instrument used to subdue rowdy onlookers in the courtroom). Half-hour tours are guided. @ 1 hr.; includes wait in line. Chestnut St., btw. 5th & 6th sts. y 215/965-2305. www.nps.gov/inde. Mar 1–Dec 31, tickets are required (free at Visitor Center or $1.50 in advance online: pick up at least one hour before tour). Daily 9am–5pm.

3 ★★★ Liberty Bell. The cracked, one-ton symbol of Ameri-can independence and equality resides in a $12.6-million glass gazebo across Chestnut Street from Independence Hall. Interactive exhibits aim to keep you from reach-ing out and ringing the bell. (Don’t even think about it.) @ 1⁄2 hr. Free admission (tickets not required; mandatory security check). Daily 9am–5pm.

Guided tours of Independence Hall leave every half-hour.

CHINATOWN

8TH 8TH

2ND

5TH

N. F

ront

St.

N. 7

th S

t.

Race St.

Lombard St.

S. 4

th S

t.

N. C

olum

bus

Blv

d.

S. C

olum

bus

Blv

d.

Willow St.

Florist St.

New St.

DockSt.

Quarry St.

Gaskill St.

Letit

ia S

t.

S. B

ank

St.

Philip Pl

S. Washington Sq

Kenilworth St.

Manning Walk

S. L

eith

gow

St.

Manning St.

Ionic St.

S. 3

rd S

t.

N. 7

th S

t.

Kater St.

Locust St.

Locust St.

Addison St.

Callowhill St.

Arch St.

S. 7

th S

t.

Wood St.

Rodman St.

S. A

mer

ican

St.

N. 5

th S

t.

Race St.

S. R

eese

St.

Old

2nd

St.

S. 2

nd S

t.

S. M

arsh

all S

t.

S. F

ront

St.

N. Front St.


S. 2

nd S

t.

Filbert St.Cuthbert St.

Ludlow St.

Bainbridge St.

Market St.

Vine St.

S. 8

th S

t.

South St.South St.


N. 8

th S

t.

Dock St.

Cypress St.

Sansom St.

Pine St.

S. 7

th S

t.

Ionic St.

N. 5

th S

t.

S. 6

th S

t.


Chestnut St.

Spruce St.

N. 3

rd S

t.

Bre

ad S

t.

N. 4

th S

t.

Walnut St.

Delancey St.

N. W

ater

St.

S. P

hilip

St.

S. A

mer

ican

St.


N. New St.

Appletree St.

ElfrethsAlley

Vine Street Expy

FranklinSquare

WashingtonSquare


Historical Park



US Mint

The Bourse

SOCIETY HILL

SOUTHSTREET

OLD CITY

JEWELERS'ROW

10Th

e B

est

Full-

Day

To

urs 9:30am–5pm, Sat 9:30am–6pm, Sun

noon–5pm.

5 ★ Christ Church Burial Ground. The 1719 expansion of Christ Church (see p 11, bullet 8), includes the graves of signers of the Declaration of Independence, including, most notably, that of Ben-jamin Franklin. Join the throngs who have tossed a penny on it (through the fence) for good luck. @ 1⁄4 hr. SE corner of 5th & Arch sts. www.oldchristchurch.org. Closed to the public.

4 ★★ = National Constitu-tion Center. The newest addition to Independence Park is the world’s only museum devoted to the U.S. Constitution—which is way more fun than it sounds. There are live performances-in-the-round that explain the document’s history, as well as interactive exhibits that let you take the Presidential Oath of Office, don a Supreme Court robe, stand next to a Declaration signer, and examine hang-ing chads from the 2000 election. @ 11⁄2 hr. 525 Arch St. y 215/409-6600. www.constitutioncenter.org. Admission $12 adults, $11 seniors, $8 chil-dren 4–12. Buy tickets in advance; arrive 20 minutes early for timed theater show. Mon–Fri

The National Constitution Center has per-formances and interactive exhibits dedi-cated to the U.S. Constitution.

The museum at Franklin Court pays tribute to the man’s many careers.

6 ★★ Fork Etc. Step back, momentarily, into modern times for a tasty salad, light sandwich, natural soda, cappuccino, and the day’s papers at this quick-stop gourmet cafe. For a longer lunch, try Etc.’s slightly-more-formal sister restau-rant, Fork, next door (see p 106). 308 Market St. y 215/625-9425. www.forkrestaurant.com. $–$$.

7 ★★ = Franklin Court. Brick arches disguise Ben Franklin’s for-

mer home, which, since it was long ago demol-

ished, is now repre-sented by a steel frame girder. Nearby is a museum that

pays tribute to Franklin’s

many

11The B

est in O

ne

Day

actually, if she really sewed the first flag). No matter: This restored dwell-ing remains a minute joy to explore, from cellar kitchen to wee bedrooms to flag-filled gift shop. @ 1⁄2 hr. 239 Arch St. y 215/686-1252. www.betsyrosshouse.org. Suggested donation $3 adults, $2 students; audio tour $5. Apr–Sept daily 10am–5pm; Oct–Mar Tues–Sun 10am–5pm.

0 ★★★ Elfreth’s Alley. The old-est continuously inhabited street in the States could teach you a thing or two about getting along with the neighbors. Small, two-story row houses line the narrow cobblestone lane, the original homes of trades-men, artisans, and urbanites of varied religions and ethnicities. Number 126, the Mantua Maker’s House (cape maker) is the alley’s museum, complete with 18th-cen-tury garden and dressmaker’s shop.

@ 1 hr. Off 2nd St., toward Front St., btw. Arch & Race sts. y 215/574-0560. www.elfrethsalley.org. Free admission to visitor center & gift shop; Mantua Maker’s House $5 adults, $1 children (includes 20-min-ute tour). Mar–Oct Tues noon–5pm, Wed–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun noon–5pm; Nov–Feb Thurs–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun noon–5pm.

careers, shows a 22-minute film about The Real Ben Franklin, and operates a post office that hand-stamps postcards. @ 1 hr. 314–322 Market St. y 215/965-2305. Free admission. Daily 11am–5pm. Post office closed Sun.

8 ★★ Christ Church. Old City might be proudest of this English Palladian landmark, oft regarded as the neighborhood’s most important Colonial building. George Washing-ton had his own pew here. William Penn (1644–1718) received his bap-tism in the font, a gift from London’s All Hallows’ Church. Although plaques and memorial markers abound, keep in mind that person seated beneath the circa 1744 chan-delier could be one of the active church’s congregants. A volunteer guide in the nave will gladly offer an impromptu tour—and hush you, if necessary. @ 1⁄2 hr. 2nd & Market sts. y 215/922-1695. www.christchurchphila.org. Free admission; donations accepted. Mon–Sat 9am–5pm; Sun 12:30–5pm. Closed Mon–Tues in Jan–Feb.

9 ★ = Betsy Ross House. The jury’s out on whether Betsy Ross (1752–1836), the seamstress of the Stars and Stripes, actually lived in this teensy abode (or,

Elfreth’s Alley is the oldest continually inhabited street in the United States.

12Th

e B

est

Full-

Day

To

urs The Best in Two Days

N. 2nd St.

Mar

ket S

t.

Wal

nut S

t.

Spru

ce S

t.

S. 5th St.

Lanc

aste

r Ave

.

S. 13th St.

N. 9th St.

S. 21st St.

N. 22nd St.

N. 29th St.R

ace

St.

Rac

e St

.

N. 4th St.

Lom

bar

d S

t.Lo

mb

ard

St.

N. 33rd St.

S. 4th St.

Lud

low

St.

N. 34th St.

N. 26th St.

Park

side

Ave

.

N. 48th St.

N. 38th St.

Pow

elto

n A

ve.

N. 36th St.

Filb

ert S

t.

N. 46th St.

Cal

low

hill

St.

Spri

ng G

ard

en S

t.

N. 43rd St.

S. 44th St.

S. Columbus Blvd.

Parr

ish

St.

Will

ow S

t.

S. C

onco

urse

St.

S. 40th St.

Pennsy

lvania

Ave

.

N. 47th St.

Asp

en S

t.

Woo

d S

t.

N. C

onco

urse

Dr

S. 38th St.

S. 39th St.

N. 44th St.

Blac

k Rd

N. Union St.

S. C

olle

ge A

ve.

W. C

ambr

idge

St.

N. Brooklyn St.

Ham

ilton

St.

N. 18th St. S. 18th St. S. 18th St.

Arc

h St

.A

rch

St.

Spri

ng G

ard

en S

t.

S. 10th St.

N. 18th St.

S. Melville St.

N. 24th St.

N. 12th St.

Vin

e St

.N. 17th St.

N. 31st St.

S. 24th St.

N. 33rd St.

Gre

en S

t.

Wal

nut S

t.W

alnu

t St.

N. 24th St.

Bro

wn

St.

Parr

ish

St.

Rac

e St

.

N. 25th St.

S. 2nd St.

N. 39th St.

N. Broad St.

S. Front St.

N. 20th St.

N. 25th St.

S. 42nd St.

N. 49th St.

N. 9th St.

W. G

irar

d A

ve.

S. 49th St.

Frankford Ave.

S. 2nd St.

Filb

ert S

t.

Mar

ket S

t.M

arke

t St.

Mar

ket S

t.

N. 22nd St.

Ridge Ave.

S. 11th St.

Man

tua

Ave

.

S. 15th St.

N. 31st St.

S. 20th St.

S. 19th St.

Ogd

en S

t.

W. O

xfor

d S

t.

N. 8th St.N. 8th St.

N. 32nd St.

Haz

el A

ve.

N. 28th St.

Sprin

g G

arde

n St

.

N. 17th St.

Pin

e St

.P

ine

St.

Pin

e St

.

N. 35th St.

N. 16th St.

Belmont Ave.

N. 10th St.

S. 16th St.N. 16th St.

S. 7th St.

Pear

l St.

John

F K

enne

dy

Blv

d.

N. 49th St.

S. 6th St.

N. Preston St.

Osa

ge A

ve.

Pop

lar

St.

Popl

ar S

t.

Che

stnu

t St.

Che

stnu

t St.W. T

hom

pso

n St

.

Spru

ce S

t.

Fair

mou

nt A

ve.

N. 3rd St.

Wal

nut S

t.

W. G

irar

d A

ve.

Fair

mou

nt A

ve.

S. 12th St.

W. J

effe

rson

St.

W. O

xfor

d S

t.

W. J

effe

rson

St.

N. 30th St.

Bro

wn

St.

Delaware River

Schuylk

i ll

Riv

er

Fair

mou

ntPa

rk

Lee

Park

Fran

klin

Squa

re

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hing

ton

Squa

re

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ard

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cisv

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grou

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ver

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Phila

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FP

EN

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YL

VA

NIA

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AR

DC

OL

LE

GE

DR

EX

EL

UN

IVE

RS

ITY

N. 2nd St.

Mar

ket S

t.

Wal

nut S

t.

Spru

ce S

t.

S. 5th St.

Lanc

aste

r Ave

.

S. 13th St.

N. 9th St.

S. 21st St.

N. 22nd St.

N. 29th St.R

ace

St.

Rac

e St

.

N. 4th St.

Lom

bar

d S

t.Lo

mb

ard

St.

N. 33rd St.

S. 4th St.

Lud

low

St.

N. 34th St.

N. 26th St.

Park

side

Ave

.

N. 48th St.

N. 38th St.

Pow

elto

n A

ve.

N. 36th St.

Filb

ert S

t.

N. 46th St.

Cal

low

hill

St.

Spri

ng G

ard

en S

t.

N. 43rd St.

S. 44th St.

S. Columbus Blvd.

Parr

ish

St.

Will

ow S

t.

S. 40th St.

Pennsy

lvania

Ave

.

N. 47th St.

Asp

en S

t.

Woo

d S

t.

S. 38th St.

S. 39th St.

N. 44th St.

Blac

k Rd

N. Union St.

S. C

olle

ge A

ve.

W. C

ambr

idge

St.

N. Brooklyn St.

Ham

ilton

St.


Arc

h St

.A

rch

St.

Spri

ng G

ard

en S

t.

S. 10th St.

N. 18th St.

S. Melville St.

N. 24th St.

N. 12th St.

Vin

e St

.N. 17th St.

N. 31st St.

S. 24th St.

N. 33rd St.

Gre

en S

t.

Wal

nut S

t.W

alnu

t St.

N. 24th St.

Bro

wn

St.

Parr

ish

St.

Rac

e St

.

N. 25th St.

S. 2nd St.

N. 39th St.

N. Broad St.

S. Front St.

N. 20th St.

N. 25th St.

S. 42nd St.

St

N. 9th St.

W. G

irar

d A

ve.

S. 49th St.

Frankford Ave.

S. 2nd St.

Filb

ert S

t.

Mar

ket S

t.M

arke

t St.

Mar

ket S

t.

N. 22nd St.

Ridge Ave.

S. 11th St.

Man

tua

Ave

.

S. 15th St.

N. 31st St.

S. 20th St.

S. 19th St.

Ogd

en S

t.

W. O

xfor

d S

t.


N. 32nd St.

HlA

N. 28th St.

Sprin

g G

arde

n St

.

N. 17th St.

Pin

e St

.P

ine

St.

Pin

e St

.

N. 35th St.

N. 16th St.

Belmont Ave.

N. 10th St.


S. 7th St.

Pear

l St.

John

F K

enne

dy

Blv

d.

S. 6th St.

N. Preston St.

Osa

ge A

ve.

Pop

lar

St.

Popl

ar S

t.

Che

stnu

t St.

Che

stnu

t St.W. T

hom

pso

n St

.

Spru

ce S

t.

Fair

mou

nt A

ve.

N. 3rd St.

Wal

nut S

t.

W. G

irar

d A

ve.

Fair

mou

nt A

ve.

S. 12th St.

W. J

effe

rson

St.

W. O

xfor

d S

t.

W. J

effe

rson

St.

N. 30th St.

Bro

wn

St.

Delaware River

Schuylk

i ll

Riv

er

Fair

mou

ntPa

rk

Lee

Park

Fran

klin

Squa

re

Was

hing

ton

Squa

re

Gir

ard

Park

Fran

cisv

ille

Play

grou

nd

Schu

ylki

llRi

ver

Park

Phila

delp

hia

City

Zoo U

NIV

ER

SIT

Y O

FP

EN

NS

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VA

NIA

GIR

AR

DC

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LE

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DR

EX

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UN

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RS

ITY

4

2

5

7

6

1

1

1

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76

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676

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1 42 75 6

Tro

lley

Wo

rks

Tou

r

Ph

ilad

elp

hia

Mu

seu

m o

f Art

Wat

erw

ork

s

Bo

ath

ou

se R

ow

Ro

din

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seu

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n M

emo

rial

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un

tain

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iam

Pen

n s

tatu

e

33

1 m

i0 0

1 km

13The B

est in Tw

o D

ays

You’ve done enough walking. On day two, it’s time to take a load off (at least, for the morning) and get the lay of the

land. Of all of Philadelphia’s touring methods—amphibious landing vehicles, horses-and-carriages—the Victorian-style trolleys are my favorites. START: 5th & Market sts, or any of the 20 stops along the

trolley’s route.

1 ★★ = Trolley Works Tour. A 24-hour pass for the sur-prisingly speedy rail-less trolleys and double-decker buses gets you the most comprehensive tour of downtown. On-and-off privileges and unlimited rides mean if Junior wants to see the fortress-like East-ern State Penitentiary (see p 48, bullet 8) again, or if you regret not picking up those vintage earbobs on Antique Row, a second chance at satisfaction is just a short ride away.

@ 11⁄2 hr. 5th & Market sts., 19 more stops along route, plus shuttles from hotels. y 215/389-TOUR. www.phillytour.com. 24-hour pass: $27 adults, $25 seniors, $18 children. Apr–Nov Mon–Fri 9:30am–5:30pm, Sat–Sun 9:30am–6pm; Dec–Mar daily 10am–4pm.

2 ★★ Philadelphia Museum of Art. Hop off at this Greco-Roman temple on a hill, jog up the steps à la Rocky, and get lost in 80-some galleries of art and objets, even a medieval cloister. Cézanne’s (1839–1906) monumental Bathers is here, as are works by native Philadelphian Thomas Eakins (1844–1916), clas-sics from Van Gogh (1853–1890), Poussin (1594–1665), Rubens (1577–1640), Duchamp (1887–1968), and Monet (1840–1926). Recent special exhibitions include Cézanne and Renoir (1841–1919), and across the street at the newer Perelman Building, Marcel Wanders (1963– ) and Frank Gehry (1929– ).

@ 2 hrs. 26th St. & Ben Franklin Pkwy. y 215/763-1000. www.philamuseum.org. Admission $16 adults,

N. 2nd St.

Mar

ket S

t.

Wal

nut S

t.

Spru

ce S

t.

S. 5th St.

Lanc

aste

r Ave

.

S. 13th St.

N. 9th St.

S. 21st St.

N. 22nd St.

N. 29th St.

Rac

e St

.R

ace

St.

N. 4th St.

Lom

bar

d S

t.Lo

mb

ard

St.

N. 33rd St.

S. 4th St.

Lud

low

St.

N. 34th St.

N. 26th St.

Park

side

Ave

.

N. 48th St.

N. 38th St.

Pow

elto

n A

ve.

N. 36th St.

Filb

ert S

t.

N. 46th St.

Cal

low

hill

St.

Spri

ng G

ard

en S

t.

N. 43rd St.

S. 44th St.

S. Columbus Blvd.

Parr

ish

St.

Will

ow S

t.

S. C

onco

urse

St.

S. 40th St.

Pennsy

lvania

Ave

.

N. 47th St.

Asp

en S

t.

Woo

d S

t.

N. C

onco

urse

Dr

S. 38th St.

S. 39th St.

N. 44th St.

Blac

k Rd

N. Union St.

S. C

olle

ge A

ve.

W. C

ambr

idge

St.

N. Brooklyn St.

Ham

ilton

St.


Arc

h St

.A

rch

St.

Spri

ng G

ard

en S

t.

S. 10th St.

N. 18th St.

S. Melville St.

N. 24th St.

N. 12th St.

Vin

e St

.N. 17th St.

N. 31st St.

S. 24th St.

N. 33rd St.

Gre

en S

t.

Wal

nut S

t.W

alnu

t St.

N. 24th St.

Bro

wn

St.

Parr

ish

St.

Rac

e St

.

N. 25th St.

S. 2nd St.

N. 39th St.

N. Broad St.

S. Front St.

N. 20th St.

N. 25th St.

S. 42nd St.

N. 49th St.

N. 9th St.

W. G

irar

d A

ve.

S. 49th St.

Frankford Ave.

S. 2nd St.

Filb

ert S

t.

Mar

ket S

t.M

arke

t St.

Mar

ket S

t.

N. 22nd St.

Ridge Ave.

S. 11th St.

Man

tua

Ave

.

S. 15th St.

N. 31st St.

S. 20th St.

S. 19th St.

Ogd

en S

t.

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xfor

d S

t.


N. 32nd St.

Haz

el A

ve.

N. 28th St.

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g G

arde

n St

.

N. 17th St.

Pin

e St

.P

ine

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Pin

e St

.

N. 35th St.

N. 16th St.

Belmont Ave.

N. 10th St.


S. 7th St.

Pear

l St.

John

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enne

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d.

N. 49th St.

S. 6th St.

N. Preston St.

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The Philadelphia Museum of Art features more than 80 galleries.

14Th

e B

est

Full-

Day

To

urs

You’ll spend most of your time on the first and second floors of this U-shaped museum. Begin where your interests lie—especially at j Special Exhibitions, which are almost always world-class, usually require advance reservations, and charge additional admission. Next, explore works by Thomas Eakins, as well as Shaker and Pennsylvania Dutch furnishings in the k Ameri-can Collection. Cross the grand stair (looking up to see Alexander Calder’s [1898–1976] “Ghost” mobile) to l Modern and Con-temporary Art, where you can find iconoclastic pieces by Jasper Johns (1930– ), Marcel Duchamp, Cy Twombly (1928– ), and Constantin Brancusi (1876–1957). Before you

head upstairs, m European Art 1850–1900 deserves your perusal: Review your art history lessons with works representative of the Impres-sionist, Symbolist, Naturalist, and Art Nouveau styles—including Cézannes, Cassatts (1844–1926), Monets, Van Goghs, and amazing period objets. The second floor shows earlier pieces from Europe: n 1500–1850 French and English period rooms, Poussins and Rubenses, and o 1100–1500: Renaissance works, a 15th-century Venetian bedroom, a French Gothic chapel, and an p Asian gallery that includes an interesting mix: a Japanese teahouse, Persian carpets, and a 16th-century Indian temple hall.

SECONDFLOOR

FIRSTFLOOR

GROUNDFLOOR

2A

2B2C

2D

2E 2F

2G

Philadelphia Museum of Art

$14 seniors, $12 students (does not include special exhibits); first Sunday of the month, pay what you wish.

Tue–Sun 10am–5pm (Fri until 8:45pm).

15

3 ★ Waterworks. Just behind the museum, a 200-year-old munici-pal water system has been cleverly restored as an elegant river-top res-taurant. Try the grilled haloumi cheese, the lobster BLT, and a bot-tle from the water list. 640 Water Works Dr. y 215/236-9000. www.thewaterworksrestaurant.com. $–$$$.

The Best in

Two

Days

Alexander. Also known as “The Fountain of the Three Rivers,” the aquatic sculpture represents the region’s three major waterways: the Schuylkill, Delaware, and Wissa-hickon rivers. @ 20 min. 1 Logan Sq., at 18th St. & Ben Franklin Pkwy.

7 ★★★ William Penn statue. Finally, go a few blocks more to reach City Hall and Philadelphia’s biggest statue of all. Created by Alexander Milne Calder (1846–1923), father to Alexander Stirling, this enormous topper represents Philadelphia’s original city planner and Pennsylvania’s namesake.

@ 20 min. Broad & Market sts.

4 ★★ Boathouse Row. From the restaurant, head toward the river, along Kelly Drive, to this iconic row of 10 antique (circa 1850s–1870s) clubhouses belonging to collegiate and other amateur crew groups and teams. You’ll likely glimpse some oarsmen sculling along the river. Come back, if you can, after dark to see the houses lit up. @ 1⁄2 hr.

5 ★★★ Rodin Museum. Farther up the Parkway, stop by this Paul Cret–designed mini-museum (on the street’s north side). Here, a render-ing of The Thinker and the Gates of Hell will greet you to the largest col-lection of Rodin’s (1840–1917) works outside of Paris. It’s a lovely spot, really, replete with major sculpture, plaster models, and origi-nal sketchbooks. @ 1 hr. 22nd St. & Ben Franklin Pkwy. y 215/568-6026. www.rodinmuseum.org. Sug-gested admission $5. Tues–Sun 10am–5pm.

6 ★★ Swann Memorial Foun-tain. A few more blocks, and you’ll run into Logan Circle and its classi-cal centerpiece fountain, a creation of Alexander Stirling Calder (1870–1945), the son of City Hall sculptor

The clubhouses along Boathouse Row date back to the mid-19th century.

16Th

e B

est

Full-

Day

To

urs The Best in Three Days

15TH

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95

17The B

est in Th

ree

Days

So, you’ve done high-brow culture and big-time history. On day three, it’s time to get to know the city’s inimitable blend of

gorgeous, gritty, and gourmet—the essential components that make Philadelphia . . . Philly. Start with a brisk walk. (You’ll need the exercise: Soon, you’ll be eating your way through 9th Street’s Italian Market.) START: Columbus Blvd. at Walnut St.

1 Penn’s Landing. The nicest time of day to visit the pedestrian-friendly Delaware Riverfront is morning, with the seagulls and jog-gers. No longer the bustling port it once was, the area is nonetheless a decent place to stroll, to gaze across the river at Camden, New Jersey, and if you’re into shipbuild-ing and seafaring, to return to later, to visit the Independence Seaport Museum, USS Becuna, USS Olympia, and the four-mast-tall ship the Moshulu, converted into a restau-rant (see p 96). For now, however, walk south along the water, past the Art Deco–inspired Hyatt Regency, then cross back over Columbus Boulevard at Spruce Street. @ 1⁄2 hr. Columbus Blvd at Walnut St. www.delawareriverwaterfrontcorp.com.

2 ★★ Society Hill. Back on the “mainland,” you can find the very Philly dichotomy of living styles. To the north: I.M. Pei’s (1917– ) circa

1963 modernist Society Hill Towers. To the west and south: Historic brick Colonial-, Georgian-, and Fed-eral-style townhouses, some of the city’s first. Society Hill, a neighbor-hood loosely bound by Walnut and South streets, the river, and 8th Street, gets its name from the Free Society of Traders, a wealthy 18th-century group of Quaker financiers who footed some of William Penn’s bills and who resided here. Today, the area is considered the city’s sec-ond-most sought-after real estate, after Rittenhouse Square. (I think Society Hill is infinitely more charm-ing.) To really get a flavor for the blend of history here, explore a few blocks and be sure to seek out details such as “busybody” mirrors in upper-floor windows, invented by Ben Franklin, used by residents to see who’s at the door without hav-ing to descend the stairs; original wrought-iron boot scrapers; and sidewalks that bear antique hitching

Penn’s Landing is home to the four-masted tall ship Moshulu, now a restaurant.

18Th

e B

est

Full-

Day

To

urs and is again—an open-air market in

continuous, English-style sheds. And it’s attached to the nation’s old-est surviving volunteer firehouse. Weekends in the spring through fall, shop or browse Headhouse’s bus-tling farmer’s market. @ 15 min. 2nd St., btw. Pine & Lombard sts.

4 South Street. To skip this col-orful strip of sneaker stores, cos-tume jewelers, rustic cafes, and neon-lit food stands would be to miss out on the city’s beating ado-lescent heart. For decades, this one-way boulevard has been a sort of Mecca for the under-21 set. Notice the gum stuck to the tree trunks. Darn kids. @ 15 min.

posts and marble steps, relics of horse-and-buggy days. To explore the inside of a residence-turned-museum, call ahead to see the Powel House. @ 1⁄2 hr. 244 S. 3rd St. (See p 55.)

3 Headhouse Square. This all-brick replica of the original “New Market” or “Shambles” was once—

South Street is a beacon to the city’s adolescents.

5 ★★ Chapterhouse. This airy and art-dappled converted store-front serves great espresso, fresh fruit smoothies, and breakfast pas-tries to a crowd of serious medical students and laid-back neighbor-hood types. 620 S. 9th St. (btw. South & Bainbridge sts.). y 215/238-2626. $.

If you thought the Italian Market was gritty, you ain’t seen nothing ’til you’ve seen the Mummers’ Museum. This unintention-ally oddball homage to Philly’s New Year’s Day parade (think Mardi Gras with more feathers, fewer beads, less organization) encapsu-lates a local tradition that’s virtually ineffable, but here goes . . . Every January 1, hundreds of locals who’ve spent the previous year rehearsing routines, concocting opulently clownish costumes and over-the-top sets, and spray-painting shoes gold, “perform” (dance, play instruments, stumble intoxicatedly) up Broad Street. The parade descends, apparently, from an old wassailing-style tradi-tion. But this spot, with its strange decor and old-to-quite-old memorabilia, feels more eccentric than historic—in a good way, of course. @ 1⁄2 hr. 2nd St. (referred to as “Two” St.) & Washington Ave. y 215/336-3050. www.mummersmuseum.com. Admission $3.50 adults, $2.50 seniors & children.

Keeping Mum

19The B

est in Th

ree

Days

old-school Italian vendors of meats, cheeses, pastry, and produce—along with Mexican bodegas and tacquerias, and junk shops galore—is nothing if not vibrant.

6 ★★ Italian Market. The “old-est outdoor market in America” may not be the city’s best-kept thorough-fare—nor is it uniquely Italian—but it sure is fun to explore. The mix of

Federal St. E. P

assy

unk

Ave.

S. D

elhi

St.

Peters St.

Ernest St.

Manton St.

League St.

Latona St.

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arta

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Montrose St.Hall St.

Kimball St.Kimball St.

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airh

ill S

t.

Clymer St.

Fitzwater St.

Clymer St.

Fulton St.

Annin St.

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ildre

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ien

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.

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Sears St.

Catharine St.

Christian St.

Christian St.

S. R

and

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h St

.

Washington Ave.

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.

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.

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PassyunkSquare Park

PalumboPlayground

HAWTHORNE

BELLAVISTA

ITALIANMARKET

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Italian/9th Street Market

Circa 1918, T Sarcone’s turns out crusty sesame-seed loaves, gar-licky tomato pies, and pepperoni stuffed breads. U Isgro’s Pastry bakes amazing pine-nut cookies and cannoli. V Mew Gallery offers cool local art and crafts. W Fiorel-la’s makes sausage, right in front of you. X D’Angelo Bros: This butcher has seriously wild game. Y The Spice Corner offers bar-gain flavorings. This Z mural of former mayor Frank Rizzo is Philly’s most defaced public art. Head to ` Claudio’s for olives, charcuterie, and house-made moz-zarella. - DiBruno Brothers’

House of Cheese is the market’s most vaunted kiosk for amazing cheeses. 6 Fante’s offers a cook- and bake-ware bonanza. © Giordano’s has cheap produce out front, cheap parmesan and provolone in back. ® Geno’s is the neon half of the city’s famed cheese steak duel. Ç Pat’s King of Steaks is the duel’s other half, claiming original sandwich cred. Order one “wid” or “widout” onions and/or (Cheez) “Whiz.” @ 2–3 hrs. www.9thstreetitalianmarket.com. 9th St. btwn. Fitzwater & Federal sts. Mon–Sat 9am–4pm; Sun 9am–noon.

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9 ★★★ = Capogiro Gelato. The most delicious gelato and sorbets reside at this popular spot, where samples are free, scoops are pricey, and flavors include sublime fior di latte (milk), classic baccio (hazelnut), and off-beat-but-delish pineapple with Lan-caster mint. 13th & Sansom sts.

y 215/351-0900. www.capogirogelato.com. $. •

all-masonry crux of Philadelphia government, home to the mayor’s office, courtrooms, and other dubi-ously functional functionaries. Visi-tors may peek into an ornate reception room (no. 202) and Coun-cil Chambers (no. 400), and if City Hall’s whims permit, take a tour, too. (Call ahead to find out.) If you can, ride the elevator up into the statue of William Penn for an amaz-ing view. @ 1–2 hrs. Broad & Mar-ket sts. www.phila.gov/. Admission $5 observation deck; $10 tour, including observation deck. Mon–Fri 9:30am–4:15pm.

7 ★ Atwater Kent Museum. The only venue offering homage to history, that’s specifically Philadel-phia, lays out the birth (and continu-ing life) of the city via sublime art and amazing objects spanning early Quaker fashions to Norman Rock-well works to 2008 Phillies memora-bilia. On the first floor you can’t — and shouldn’t — miss the giant, walk-upon floor map detailing Philly’s every natural and man-made nook and cranny. @ 1 hr. 15 S. 7th St. (between Chestnut and Market sts.) y 215/685-4830. www.philadelphiahistory.org. Admission $5 adults; $3 seniors and students 13–17; free children 12 and under. Weds–Sun 1–5pm. (Museum closed for renovations until mid 2010.)

8 ★★ City Hall. Ready to walk again? Head toward the elaborate,

Visitors to City Hall can ride the elevator up into the statue of William Penn at the top of the building.

Capogiro Gelato features free samples and several outstanding flavors.

Documents

Frommer's Philadelphia Day by Day