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FROM THE GROUND TO THE GLASS
In This Session We Will Discuss…
Selecting, growing and malting varieties of grain with unique flavors that are not normally available to brewers, distillers and bakers anywhere.
Growing and harvesting issues. Special malting requirements. Laboratory and brewery testing.
MALTSTER AT WORK
SALISH COAST REGION
West of Cascade Mountains. North of Eugene, Oregon. Up through Vancouver Island, B.C. Long days during seed fill. Moderate to cool days. Very cool nights. No drought stress (lower protein).
It rains until July 4th!
Dry, sunny harvest. Salt water flavor influence. Fat, plump kernels (6/64 through
9/64). Washington State University has
over 15,000 varieties of barley growing now, including heritage varieties.
WSU also has over 40,000 varieties of wheat growing now.
At least 100’s malt very well.
SALISH COAST REGION
SKAGIT VALLEY MALTING Custom malting for each brewery,
distillery, miller or bakery. Skagit Valley – top 2% of farmland in
the World – soil rating. Low protein base malt – 9% to 10.5%. Working with two Land Grant
Universities. Direct support from largest Farmers in
the Region as well as many smaller Farmers.
WHAT HAS BEEN
Malts – made for major market (success).
Variable roasts – similar grain profile. Grain profile (defined by major
market). Limited domestic custom malt
availability. Even European Malt Houses have
established customers. Limited malt choice for American
Micro Brewers.
WHAT IS POSSIBLE?
Land Grant Universities breeding grain varieties for Craft Breweries.
100’s of barley varieties with distinct flavor differences, distinctly wider profiles.
Heritage grains with unique profiles.
Craft brewing with CRAFTED MALTS – not just roasted differently.
POSSIBLE WITH CUSTOM MALT HOUSES
YOU pick the Profile. YOU pick the Region. YOU pick the Farmer. YOU get what Winemakers have
always demanded - Control over your MAIN ingredient.
WHY HERE?
There are over 80 crops grown here and grains are NOT the most profitable. Dave Hedlin, Skagit Valley Farmer…”I grow grains for fun and ‘occasionally’ profit.”
Malt grains draw a premium when they are “plump” and have lower protein (9 to 10.5 percent seems ideal for craft brewing).
There are 12 seed companies in Skagit Valley and malt grains are high quality seeds (80% 7/64’s or greater).
WHY HERE?
The Northwest is a major center for craft brewing and artisan distilling.
The Northwest grows significant hops.
Skagit Valley is within 100 miles of 6,500,000 people. (Seattle and Vancouver, B.C. are within an hours drive).
We like it here!
WHY HERE?
We get to see and work with more varieties than most areas of North America. We get to see how they grow, how they taste, how they MALT, and more. What a great “LOCAL” we have!
DEEP ROOTS TO RENEW THE SOIL
WHAT IS MALT?
The largest component of beer. “Malt is to the brewer what the
grape is to the winemaker.” - Bill Coors
Malt barley varieties have “taste” differences as well as properties like soluble protein and extract.
Brewers can have a choice just like winemakers demand in their grapes.
Water 90% by volume Differentiation by source of
water
Malt Barley 9.9% by volume 8 principal varieties in the US
(AMBA)
Highest proportion ingredient by volume, least amount of
variation
Hops <1% by volume (except SUPER
IPA’s) over 119 varieties in US
Yeast <1% by volume 18-20 mainstream varieties
Skagit Valley Malting
Malt BarleyHundreds of potential varieties100% locally grownLow protein content ( 8.5 to
10.5% )Continuous university R&D to
develop new grain varieties
Malt barley becomes a Beer Makers “grape”, with
exponentially greater variety
PRODUCT: CREATING A CATEGORY OF DIFFERENTIATION
Grain Malting We make barley (and other
grains) think it’s going to grow
The endosperm is a protein/carbohydrate matrix reserve for the acrospire
Pre-existing enzymes are released during growth and modify the matrix into easily used sugars
We watch the acrospire as an indicator of “modification”
When it’s fully modified we kill it and then kiln it so we can use those sugars in brewing, baking and distilling.
Wayne refers to the
endosperm as the seed’s
backpack of MREs.
Wayne refers to the
endosperm as the seed’s
backpack of MREs.
PURPLE NAKED EGYPTIAN
WHAT IS A “VARIETY”?
Many people think malt variety is the roast.
We think of variety as the “barley variety” from which we can make all the possible roasts with both two and six row barley.
We are currently testing about twenty varieties of barley and several wheat's.
Most of these varieties are NOT listed by AMBA.
WHAT IS VARIETY?
There are over 15,000 varieties of barley!
Hundreds can be successfully malted. Both six row and two row varieties,
black, purple, red, and many shades of gold.
Distinct as well as subtle flavor differences.
Each variety can have different character and different malting requirements.
Where Do We Fit
Grains
Ma
ltin
g P
roc
ess
es
0
155
10 AMBAGrains
20 New Grains Already Being
Developed
Thousands of Additional Grains Waiting to Be Developed
20,000 Barleys, 40,000 Wheats,
…
Vast Numbers of New Flavors
Grains
Ma
ltin
g P
roc
ess
es
20,000 Barleys, 40,000 Wheats, …
BARLEY TRIALS
LOOK WHAT IS POSSIBLE
Domestic - North American Grown Lower Protein - 9% to 10.5% Variety - Over 15,000 Barley
varieties, at least 100’s malt well Custom Malts with a profile YOU
choose.
COA (Certificate of Analysis) ---- PROFILE
MALT ANALYSIS (COA)
What is it used for? What should it be? What does it mean to the user?
“---to document the production in the malt house----to predict the performance in the brew house---” (John Mallett– Bells Brewery)
WHAT’S IN THE ANALYSIS?
Enzyme levels (Alpha, Beta, Fan) Color Beta Glucan ppm Extract Protein levels Fermentable sugars …..lots more….
WHY ARE THE VALUES IMPORTANT?
Beta Glucan (viscosity or mouth feel) (also filter issues)
Color (how will the wort look?) Enzymes (Quickly make sugar?) Extract ($$$$ will I get LOTS of sugar
per pound?) FLAVOR??????????
ITS ALL ABOUT THE BEER!!!
Or Whiskey Or Bread Or Pasta Or Beer!!!
VARIETIES MEANS VARIETY
The COA will differ more as you get farther from the AMBA approved grains.
The FLAVOR, mouth feel, color, and more will differ also.
The user needs to know what it is and then what to do to get what they desire-FLAVOR!
FROM GROUND TO GLASS
Mike Doehnel
Agronomy
The importance of agronomy and varietal selection for flavor and performance in the brewhouse.
Choosing the “right” variety for your climatic conditions may mean scouring the planet for germplasm which performs best in your conditions.
These Excel files demonstrate some of the considerations we have taken in selecting varieties for agronomic performance, maltibility and finally brewing for different beer flavors and processes suitable to a specific brewing system.
Six Row13CY
FROM GROUND TO GLASS
Bob Rock
Our Laboratory / Brewery
Fully licensed and regulated Les Nessman style structure (WKRP?) Stainless conicals as well as various
plastic carboys Upright freezers with Ranco controllers
for fermentation chambers Chest freezer & controller for kegs 10 gallon or smaller batches… and a ruined
hobby
Are you ready for it?
RIMS – Recirculating Infusion Mash System
Clarifies wort using grain bed as a filter
Temperature Control +/- 0.5° F
SABCO Brewmagic
$$$
$ $
The other downside…
I Brew,
Therefore
I Clean!(A lot.)
The First Commandment…
Apologies to René Descartes for perverting
“Cogito ergo sum”
Brewing’s Glamourous Side
Testing and Analysis House Yeast Selection Experiment
Scientific but VERY entertaining !
Testing and Analysis
Test Brew - Very Simple SMaSH Blonde Ale
Taste the Malt / Taste the Beer Sensory Analysis
Experimental Beers Scots Bere Purple Egyptian
Testing and Analysis
Malt Batch Mini Mashes Three replicate mini mashes done with a
standardized mash regime Measure PPG, ΔPPG, Extract “As Is”, Extract
“Dry Basis” and pH Statistical analysis Sensory analysis – color, smell & taste Compares very well with ASBC / EBC
Congress Mash results
Mik
e_27
Mik
e_26
Mik
e_25
Mik
e_1
M00
37M
0036
M00
35M
0034
M00
33M
0031
M00
30M
0029
M00
28M
0027
M00
25M
0024
M00
23M
0022
M00
21M
0020
M00
19M
0018
M00
17M
0016
M00
15M
0014
M00
13M
0012
M00
11-R
1M
0011
M00
10-R
1M
0010
M00
09M
0008
M00
05C
_TFG
PC
_TFA
C_G
WW
hC
_GW
VC
_GW
PC
_GW
O2
C_G
W2
C_G
WC
_Gam
Pils
C_C
120L
C_B
rMun10
LC
_Bries
s 6
RC
_BB65
LC
_Bai
rdsM
O5
0
-5
-10
-15
-20
Batch ID
Delta P
PG
-2
20
Delta PPG (95% Confidence Interval for Mean)
Mik
e_27
Mik
e_26
Mik
e_25
Mik
e_1
M00
37M
0036
M00
35M
0034
M00
33M
0031
M00
30M
0029
M00
28M
0027
M00
25M
0024
M00
23M
0022
M00
21M
0020
M00
19M
0018
M00
17M
0016
M00
15M
0014
M00
13M
0012
M00
11-R
1M
0011
M00
10-R
1M
0010
M00
09M
0008
M00
05C
_TFG
PC
_TFA
C_G
WW
hC
_GW
VC
_GW
PC
_GW
O2
C_G
W2
C_G
WC
_Gam
Pils
C_C
120L
C_B
rMun10
LC
_Bries
s 6
RC
_BB65
LC
_Bai
rdsM
O100
90
80
70
60
50
40
30
20
Batch ID
Extr
act
as
is
Extract As Is (95% Confidence Interval for Mean)
Mik
e_27
Mik
e_26
Mik
e_25
Mik
e_1
M00
37M
0036
M00
35M
0034
M00
33M
0031
M00
30M
0029
M00
28M
0027
M00
25M
0024
M00
23M
0022
M00
21M
0020
M00
19M
0018
M00
17M
0016
M00
15M
0014
M00
13M
0012
M00
11-R
1M
0011
M00
10-R
1M
0010
M00
09M
0008
M00
05C
_TFG
PC
_TFA
C_G
WW
hC
_GW
VC
_GW
PC
_GW
O2
C_G
W2
C_G
WC
_Gam
Pils
C_C
120L
C_B
rMun10
LC
_Bries
s 6
RC
_BB65
LC
_Bai
rdsM
O100
90
80
70
60
50
40
30
20
Batch ID
Extr
act
dry
basi
s
Extract Dry Basis (95% Confidence Interval for Mean)
Mik
e_27
Mik
e_26
Mik
e_25
Mik
e_1
M00
37M
0036
M00
35M
0034
M00
33M
0031
M00
30M
0029
M00
28M
0027
M00
25M
0024
M00
23M
0022
M00
21M
0020
M00
19M
0018
M00
17M
0016
M00
15M
0014
M00
13M
0012
M00
11-R
1M
0011
M00
10-R
1M
0010
M00
09M
0008
M00
05C
_TFG
PC
_TFA
C_G
WW
hC
_GW
VC
_GW
PC
_GW
O2
C_G
W2
C_G
WC
_Gam
Pils
C_C
120L
C_B
rMun10
LC
_Bries
s 6
RC
_BB65
LC
_Bai
rdsM
O6.25
6.00
5.75
5.50
5.25
5.00
4.75
4.50
Batch ID
pH
pH (95% Confidence Interval for Mean)
FROM THE GROUND TO THE GLASS
