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A 65 page guide to using the router on site and around the home r o u t i n g t e c h n o l o g y R trend ROUTING TECHNIQUES FOR TRADESMEN & HOME IMPROVERS 30

FOR TRADESMEN & HOME IMPROVERS - Wood Tools · FOR TRADESMEN & HOME IMPROVERS 30. DECORATIVE MOULDINGS 1 INTR ... templates add this amount to each edge of the template. ... Stile

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Page 1: FOR TRADESMEN & HOME IMPROVERS - Wood Tools · FOR TRADESMEN & HOME IMPROVERS 30. DECORATIVE MOULDINGS 1 INTR ... templates add this amount to each edge of the template. ... Stile

A 65 page guide to using the router on site and around the home

r o u t i n g t e c h n o l o g y

R

trend

ROUTING TECHNIQUES

FOR TRADESMEN & HOME IMPROVERS30

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DECORATIVEMOULDINGS

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INTRODUCTION

KITCHEN &BATHROOM

JOINERYWINDOWS

AND DOORS

The use of the router for jobs on-siteand around the home is certainlyunder estimated. In this booklet wewill be illustrating thirty simpleexamples of its application.

The router is the most suitable toolto use for many applications simplybecause it will get the job donequicker and will give a far superiorfinish than when using other powertools. Sometimes, applications justsimply cannot be done any otherway.

We have divided this booklet intofive sections. Section 1 gives anintroduction into safety, holding thework and use of templates. Theother four sections are grouped intoWindows and Doors, Kitchen andBathroom, Joinery, and DecorativeMouldings.

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▲ Always switch off the router and isolate from themains supply when changing cutters or makingadjustments to the router.

▲ Before re-connecting to the mains supply, makesure the power switch is in the ‘off’ position.

▲ Ensure that the power cable is kept well away fromthe cutter and cannot tangle or catch on the workpiece,jig or fittings.

▲ Check before starting to cut that clamps will notobstruct the path of the router. When cutting through thefull thickness of the material, ensure that the cuttercannot foul the vice, bench edge or other obstaclesbeneath the workpiece.

▲ Most construction sites only allow the use of 115vpower tools and this may be a deciding factor whenpurchasing power tools.

▲ When routing, a flat and stable work table isessential.

SAFETY FIRST

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▲ Always wear eye protection such as goggles, andwear ear defenders if routing for a lengthy period.

▲ Do not allow loose clothing to dangle over the workarea. Roll sleeves up and ensure long hair is tied back.

▲ Keep fingers clear of the cutter and never touch anypart to try to slow or stop the cutter.

▲ Practice the procedure first before switching on andconcentrate carefully on what you are doing.

▲ Use dust extraction wherever possible. Manyrouters have dust guards as standard or as anaccessory.

▲ Take care when handling cutters as they are sharp.Store them carefully.

▲ Always feed the cutter into the material against therotation of the cutter.

▲ Do not switch on the router with the cutter incontact with the workpiece.

▲ Make sure the router has come to a complete stopand isolate the power before making adjustments.

▲ Where possible release the plunge lock and retractthe cutter.

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1. Quick-action clamps are effective forholding the workpiece or jig to the bench and canbe positioned in seconds. Sash cramps or TrendClamp Guides are ideal for holding larger sectionsfor preparation and assembly.

HOLDING THE WORK

2. Toggle clamps are useful where repeatedclamping is required such as on work-holdersand support jigs. Alternatively if an obstructionfree surface is required, end socket clamps canbe used and require a 9mm hole in the materialor waste-piece.

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4. Cams, blocks and wedges used with asacrificial top may be more practical, where theworkpiece may be large and its surface irregular.They combine a quick-release facility togetherwith an obstruction-free surface for the path ofthe router.

3. In situations where clamps or othermechanical devices are impractical, pins may beused. Where these may spoil the workpiece,double-sided tape or hot-melt glue can be used.This will only work if the material is flat, clean anddust-free.

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A template is often used to simplify demanding copyrouting operations or as an accurate method ofspeeding up repetitive work. It also reduces the risk ofspoiling expensive materials. The use of a template willtherefore provide a solution for a whole range ofpossibly otherwise difficult operations.

A guide bush is used for guiding the router around thetemplate. The guide bush itself, with its base fitted flushinto the base of the router, has a bush flange concentricto the cutter. This runs against the edge of the template.Templates can be cut from any piece of smooth sheetmaterial that is easy to work with and finish. Thematerial depth must be greater than the flange depth ofthe guide bush.

TEMPLATES & GUIDE BUSHES

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When designing the template shape remember that thedifference between the cutter and the outside guide bushdiameter needs to be allowed for. This offset iscalculated by deducting cutter diameter (d), from theouter guide bush diameter (D) and dividing theremainder by two. For external templates deduct thisamount from each edge of the template. For internaltemplates add this amount to each edge of the template.

The offset for specific guide bush sizes and cutterdiameters is shown in the chart above. Choose a guidebush that allows at least 2 to 3mm clearance around thecutter allowing the waste to clear.

inches mm10 11 12 14 16 17 18 20 22 24 26 27 28 30 32 40

mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm

- - - - - - - - - - 3.5 4 4.5 5.5 6.5 10.5

- - - - - - - - - - - 3.5 4 5 6 10

- - - - - - - - - - - - - 3.9 4.9 8.9

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 7.3

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 5.7

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 4.1

- - - - - - - 3.5 4.5 5.5 6.5 7 7.5 8.5 9.5 13.5

- - - - - - - - 3.5 4.5 5.5 6 6.5 7.5 8.5 12.5

- - - - - - - - - 4 5 5.5 6 7 8 12

- - - - - - - - - - 4 4.5 5 6 7 11

- - - - - - - - - - 3.9 4.4 4.9 5.9 6.9 10.9

- - - - - 3.7 4.2 5.2 6.2 7.2 8.2 8.7 9.2 10.2 11.2 15.2

- - - - - 3.5 4 5 6 7 8 8.5 9 10 11 15

- - - - - - 3.5 4.5 5.5 6.5 7.5 8 8.5 9.5 10.5 14.5

- - - - - - - 4 5 6 7 7.5 8 9 10 14

- - - - - - - 3.6 4.6 5.6 6.6 7.1 7.6 8.6 9.6 13.6

- - - 4.2 5.2 5.7 6.2 7.2 8.2 9.2 10.2 10.7 11.2 12.2 13.2 17.2

- - - 4 5 5.5 6 7 8 9 10 10.5 11 12 13 17

- - - 3.8 4.8 5.3 5.8 6.8 7.8 8.8 9.8 10.3 10.8 11.8 12.8 16.8

- - - 4 4.5 5 6 7 8 9 9.5 10 11 12 16

- - - - 3.5 4 4.5 5.5 6.5 7.5 8.5 9 9.5 10.5 11.5 15.5

35 4 4.5 5.5 6.5 7 7.5 8.5 9.5 10.5 11.5 12 12.5 13.5 14.5 18.5

- 3.9 4.4 5.4 6.4 6.9 7.4 8.4 9.4 10.4 11.4 11.9 12.4 13.4 14.4 18.4

- 3.5 4 5 6 6.5 7 8 9 10 11 11.5 12 13 14 18

- - 3.6 4.6 5.6 6.1 6.6 7.6 8.6 9.6 10.6 11.1 11.6 12.6 13.6 17.6

- - 3.5 4.5 5.5 6 6.5 7.5 8.5 9.5 10.5 11 11.5 12.5 13.5 17.5

7/64

1/8

5/32

3/16

13/64

3

3.2

4

4.8

5

5.5

6

6.3

8

9

9.5

10

11

12

12.7

13

15

16

18

18.2

19

20

22.2

25.4

28.5

7/32

15/64

1/4

5/16

23/64

3.8

25/64

7/16

15/32

1/2

-

-

5/8

-

23/32

3/4

-

7/8

1

1 1/8

1 1/4

OFFSET =D-d2

GUIDE BUSH DIAMETERCUTTERDIAMETER

= offset

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TEMPLATES & GUIDE BUSHES

Guide bushes are available in different diameters toallow various diameter cutters to be accommodated.Many makes of router do not offer a range of guide bushsizes. Therefore a sub-base should be fitted to the baseinto which the full range of guide bushes can be fitted.These are available in diameters of 10mm to 32 in 2mmincrements, and also in a 40mm size.

Templates for use with guide bushes should not bemade from too thick a material otherwise it will restrictthe depth of cut. MDF, hard plastics and Tufnol are idealmaterials to use as they are flat and stable.

TEMPLATE CONSTRUCTIONTo construct a template, often jigsaws or other powertools can be used to remove the bulk of the waste. Buttake time to make sure that the template edges are freefrom irregularities, as they will be reproduced in thefinished workpiece. Often the router itself can be usedto shape or produce the required slots and apertures inthe template.

FEED DIRECTIONWhen routing, follow the correct feed direction,depending on whether it is an internal or externaltemplate.Keep the bush flange tight against the template andupon completion of the cut, release the plunge towithdraw the cutter rather than lifting the router away.

Sub-base

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Templates are also ideal for use with cuttershaving shank mounted bearings. Theadvantage over guide bushes is that the finalshape will exactly match the template, makingthe template construction easier.

Shank mounted bearings faciliate deep cuttingand profiling. In operation, the first cut ismade with the bearing engaging the template,and thereafter deeper cuts are made with thebearing following the board edge (see pages30/31).

For external templates the router’s feed direction should be anticlockwise. The cutter will also tend to

pull the router towards the template.

For internal templates the router’s feed direction should be clockwise.

Cutter ref. 11/40

Cutter ref. 18/55

Cutter ref. 13/40

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After installing a new window or replacing a tiledwindow-ledge, timber window boards can be purposemade.

1. Allow for the overhang at either end whencalculating the length of timber required. Choose thesize of overhang to match those in other rooms.

2. A bull-nose moulding will be required on three ofthe edges. For 1” thick board, use a 1/2” radiusrounding-over cutter, Trend ref. 46/150X1/4TC orsimilar. Adjust the height of the cutter so that the topquirk is just clear of the top surface. The roller bearingfitted to the end of the cutter acts as the guide and runsalong the centre of the board edge.

FITTING WINDOW BOARDSCutter ref.46/150X1/4TC

1st pass 2nd pass

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13. Make sure the board is wellclamped, and rout across the end-grain first. Then repeat thisprocedure for the other end andfinally rout with the grain. Invert theboard and then repeat thisprocedure to complete the bull-nosemoulding. Always rout in the correctdirection as shown.

4. Notch each end with a jigsawand place in position. For fixing theboard in place, countersink andcounterbore holes for the screws.To conceal the holes, use amatching plug-maker, cutting plugsfrom a section of waste board. Thiscan be carried out by fitting therouter with a one-piecedrill/countersink cutter and a plug-maker.

1. Make sure there are no imperfections in the edge before routing to prevent replication in the mould.

2. Always make a trial cut on a scrap piece of material to ensure the correct settings have been made.

3. Rout the end-grain first before routing with the grain,to prevent ‘breakout’.

4. Use the depth-stop, so that the cutter can be retracted safely after each operation, without losing the depth setting.

ROUTING TIPS

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Hinges can be recessed quickly and accuratelywith a light duty portable router fitted with a 1/2’diameter two flute cutter.

1. First construct a jig from MDF or plywood. Markout the aperture according to the size of the hinge leaf.Allowance must be made for the offset between theoutside of the guide bush and the cutter diameter.Providing the template material is square, use the routerfitted with a sidefence to cut the aperture.

2. Mark accurately the required positions of thehinges on the door and the frame.

3. Clamp or pin the jig in turn for each recess androut in a clockwise direction.

4. Remove the small radius in the corners with achisel.

HINGE RECESSING

Keep the surface area ofthe jig to a maximum tosupport the base of therouter. Cutter ref.

4/2X1/4TC

Keep the support piece deep,for securing the clamps sothat they will not interfere withthe path of the router.

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25. When setting the router to cut the correct depth, thedepth of cut can be pre-set using the hinge leaf itself.

A. Place the router on the edge of the door and plunge thecutter until it touches the surface.

B. Activate the plunge lock and release the depth stop.

C. Place the leaf betweenthe turret stop and thedepth stop and tighten thedepth stop.

D. Withdraw the hingeleaf. The depth is nowaccurately set to recess thehinge leaf.

Hinge placed between depth stop andturret stop

This is a portable template jig designed forrecessing hinges in wooden doors and frames.The apertures and edge stops are initially setand the template is then ready for accuraterecessing of the frame and the door withoutadjusting the jig.

The TREND HINGE JIG

Swivel end plateTo locate on end ofdoor to give 2mmclearance

ApertureGuide bushfollows this

Edge stopFor adjustment to suitwidth of hinge

Aperture blockFor adjustment to sethinge length

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1. Mark the centre line on the door edge at theheight required for the lock. Mark the length of themortise and position of the spindle. Fit a long reach twoflute cutter, ref. 3/83D and adjust the sidefence to suitthe width of lock. Remove the waste in several passesand repeat the operation on the other face to achieve thewidth of the mortise.

2. To rout the faceplate, first insert the lock andscore around the face plate with a sharp knife to preventfeathering on the door edge. An adjustable template canbe constructed for repetitive operations from thin MDFor plastic material. Rebate slots for adjustment screwswill ensure the jig is central to the centre line of the door.

MORTISING DOOR LOCKS

Cutter ref.3/83DX1/2TC

Rebated slots

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3. Clamp the jig to the door and adjust the depth ofcut to suit the thickness of the faceplate. Rout in aclockwise direction around the aperture. Remove therounded corners of the recess of the face plate with achisel. Increase the depth of the mortise with a chisel or3D-Bit if the lock body is over 75mm in length.

4. Before fitting the lock, the spindles and key holeapertures on either face must be cut. To allow easyremoval of the lock when fitting it, leave it in the lockedposition i.e. with the bolt protruding.

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The router is ideal for producing letterboxopenings, as the cut will be square, straight andclean.

1. Mark the position of the aperture on both sides.Score the position on the opposing face to preventsplintering when the cutter breaks through.

2. Make a template from either plywood or MDF,allowing for the offset between the cutter and the guidebush.

3. Place the jig on to the door and secure withclamps or double sided tape. Fit a 30mm guide bush anda two flute cutter ref. 3/83DX1/2TC into the router.

CUTTING APERTURES FOR LETTERBOXES

Cutter ref.3/83DX1/2TC

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The Trend Letterbox Jig is an ideal adjustabletemplate system for routing recesses in doorsquickly and accurately. The jig has a size-adjustingdevice which ensures the template aperture isalways square. Produced from aluminium, it willcater for apertures from 210 to 310mm long andfrom 46 to 82mm wide.

4. Rout in a clockwise direction around theaperture, taking several passes to complete theoperation.

If the letterbox has a sprung flap, rebate the aperture tocater for this.

The LETTERBOX JIG

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TRIMMING A DOOR TO LENGTHWhen trimming doors to length, the cuttermust have enough length to cut thethickness of the door. This will in mostcases necessitate the use of a long reachcutter with 1/2” shank cutter and a heavyduty router.

The trimming operation could be carriedout using a clamped batten with the sideof the router acting as the guide fence.

Alternatively it could be done using aguide bush and a template.

1. Remove the door and mark the required length.Score it on both sides with a marking knife to preventany feathering.

2. Measure the distance from the outside edge ofthe cutter to the straight edge of the base.

3. Clamp a batten guide this distance away fromthe marked line.

4. Cut in several passes at increased depths untilthe full width is reached.

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THE QUICK CLAMP BATTEN SYSTEMThese are available in three sizes 24”, 36” and 50”.They have integral quick clamping mechanisms forclamping onto the material. They can be used formarking and setting out, and for guiding portablesaws, jigsaws or routers.

The CLAMP GUIDE

When trimming internal doorsmany passes are taken toprevent overloading the cutterand the router.

The same procedure is usedfor external doors when arebate is required.

Cutter ref.3/83DX1/2TC

Cutter ref.4/2X1/2TC

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Decorative edgings for archways or arch formersfor brickwork can all be made using a simple beamtrammel attached to the router.

1. Construct the beam trammel from 1/4” plywoodand 4” in width. The length will depend on the diameterof the arch.

2. To fix the router securely, a 30mm guide bushfitted to the base of the router locates in a pre-drilledhole in the end, allowing for adequate support for therouter. Alternatively, the wood trammel can be screwedonto the base of the router using two of the threadedholes in it’s base.

ARCHED MOULDINGS

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6Radius Cutter

ref. 12/6X1/4TC

Straight Cutterref. 3/20X1/4TC

Ovolo Cutterref. 7/2X1/4TC

or 46/130X1/4TC

3. A pin is used to pivot the trammel. This can eitherbe a screw or nail, or a bolt which is drilled through theplywood allowing the trammel to rotate.

4. A decorative mould can be built up, using avariety of panelling cutters. Flute spacing and depth ofcut can be adapted to suit.

5. The next operation is to cut the arch with astraight cutter and remove the waste. Reposition therouter and repeat for the inner radius. The moulding ofthe inner and outer edges can be carried out either byusing an ovolo cutter before cutting the arch free, orafterwards using a bearing guided ovolo.

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VISION PANELS IN DOORS

With the enforcement of fire regulations, visionpanels often need to be cut into existing doors.When a number of doors require this, then therouter and a template become invaluable.

1. Remove door from frame and lay door flat on twotrestles and mark the size of vision panel required.

2. Score with a knife on both sides, especiallyacross the grain to avoid any feathering.

3. Drill holes inside the four corners of the requiredaperture and cut with a jigsaw from corner to cornerleaving 3mm of waste on the inside all the way round.

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4. Construct a template from 12.7mm MDF. It’saperture should be the same size as for the vision panel.Allow enough material in the template to support therouter and to prevent clamps interfering with the path ofthe router.

5. Clamp the template into position.

6. Fit a heavy duty router with a template profilercutter ref. 46/09X1/2TC and trim the aperture in aclockwise direction.

7. Square the radiused corners with a jigsaw. Withhollow doors timber strips should be inserted and gluedfor mounting the glass. Finally fit glazing bead and glassin position.

Bearing

Cutter ref.46/09X1/2TC

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ROUTING MORTISE AND TENONS

Both the mortise and the tenon can be producedquickly and accurately with the router and asidefence.

1. First mark the position of the mortise. This isusually equal to a third of the material width. Mark theunderside if you require a through tenon.

2. Whenever possible choose a router cutter equalto the width of the mortise. Clamp support pieces eitherside to provide extra stability for the router base.

3. Plunge down at either end of the mortise,remove the middle section in a number of passes.

Cutter ref.3/20LX1/4TC

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4. When routing a through mortise, leave the samesettings of the sidefence and repeat on the underside ofthe timber.

5. Square both ends of the mortise with a chisel.

6. Use the pre-cut mortise to determine the widthand length of the tenon.

7. Clamp the timber sections with the tenons sideby side and cut the shoulders simultaneously. Using abatten to guide the router.

8. Remove the rest of the waste by working therouter freehand. Work towards the shoulder line, thusleaving a good support for the router.

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FITTING INTUMESCENT STRIP

Often doors and frames in domestic and industrialapplications are subject to fire regulations and aregraded according to their construction with a firerating. Safety regulations specify the fitting ofintumescent strips and smoke-seals. These haveto be recessed in order not to interfere with theoperation of the door.

A 10mm diameter straight cutterTrend ref. 3/6 X 1/4 TC can be used to create thegroove for intumescent strip. It is used inconjunction with a light duty router fitted with it’sside-fence.

1. Holding the door vertically, firstly remove thedoor furniture and mark the position of the strip on thedoor edge.

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2. Adjust the side-fence and the depth of cut to suitthe strip. Rout along the length of the door in the correctdirection.

3. For one hour ratings or wide strips a secondpass will be necessary after adjusting the sidefence.Repeat procedure for remaining edges.

4. Alternatively, use the Trend Intumescent stripcutter set ref. 346. This purpose-made tool consists ofa 10mm wide slotter and bearing mounted on an arbor.It works on the face of the door or alternatively on theface of the frame allowing the strip to be inserted intothe rebate. Being bearing guided it reduces setting uptime and the slotter will also give a better finish than aconventional two flute cutter.

Half hour rating One hour ratingDoor applications

Half hour rating One hour ratingFrame applications

Frame

Door

Please refer to the local authority fire officer for the preciserequirements for your area. Cutter ref.

346X1/2TC

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TENON SHOULDER SCRIBING

The shoulder scribe joint between mortise andtenon of a profiled frame requires special tooling.Matching cutters are available to machine theprofile on rails and stiles, and scribe the shoulderof tenons in 35mm and 44mm doors andframework.

1. First prepare the timber sections to the correctdimensions. Mark the position of mortise, tenons andthe shoulder detail on the rails.

2. Cut material to length, allowing for a smallamount of waste at both ends of the stiles. Cut themortise into each stile, see page 24 for details.

3. The tenon is then routed to suit the mortise. Theshoulder scriber should be mounted in a table toprovide greater accuracy with the backfence modifiedso as not to obstruct the tenon.

Pushstick

Backfence

Cutter ref.SSP/1B

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4. Use a piece of waste material behind the rail toprevent splintering. This is known as a ‘spelch piece’.With the shoulders of the tenons complete, cut theprofile on the stiles and rails. Once again, mount theprofiler in the table with the bearing on the cutterslightly proud of the backfence to govern the depth.

5. Before applying any glue, test the joint by dryfitting and assembling the workpiece. When you aresatisfied apply the glue and cramp-up while the gluesets.

Backfence Cutter ref.SSP/1A

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REBATING WINDOWS TO ACCEPT DOUBLE GLAZED UNITS

Single glazed windows can be upgraded withsealed double glazed units without having toreplace the frame or the sash.

1. First remove the putty and any brads or pinswhich hold the glass in position.

2. Remove the glass carefully then clean the rebateof debris. The depth of the rebate will require deepeningwith a router. This can be achieved in two ways:

3. Fit a straight fluted cutter such as a 3/6X1/4TC.Using a batten as a guide for the router, place the cutteredge against the rebate and fix the batten against theside of the router. Repeat for all sides.

11

Batten

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4. Alternatively, the rebate can be cut with a bearingguided profiler ref. 46/92X1/4TC which will initiallyfollow a straight edge clamped to the sash and thenfollow the edge of the rebate as it cuts deeper.

5. Square the corners of the sash to remove theradius left by the cutter. Apply a bead of silicone or puttyto the rebate before inserting the new double glazedunits.

6. Finally secure the glazing beads with pins,additional silicone on the back edge will keep moistureout.

11

Template

Template

Bearing

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REPAIRS TO ROTTEN EXTERNAL JOINERY12

1. Timber windows can often be affected by theweather. Often wet rot will be confined to only onecertain area. It is therefore more economical to simplyreplace the rotten section with new timber and therebyadd ten more years to an otherwise sound window.This can effectively be done with a hand router.

2. First remove loose rotten timber from affectedarea. Open the sash and make sure it is wellsupported. Make a template from a piece of 12.7mmMDF, leaving it wide enough to clamp and support therouter. Mark out the correct size of aperture and cut itout either with a jigsaw or router and a sidefence.

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121. When making the template allow not onlyfor the removal of the rotten timber but asignificant proportion of the surroundingarea.

2. Where possible avoid routing too close tothe joint between rail and stile which wouldweaken the window.

3. Choose a cutter and guide bush thatallows good clearance for the swarf.

4. Choose a cutter that has a sufficientlength of cut to obtain the depth required.

ROUTING TIPS

3. Fit the router with a 30mm diameter guide bushand 16mm cutter (Trend ref. 4/26). Secure thetemplate to the window with clamps rather thanscrews to avoid marking the surface. Machine therotted area, taking a number of passes with the routerin a clockwise direction.

4. Remove radiused corners with a chisel and cuta timber insert to suit the recess, leaving the thicknessslightly larger to allow for finishing to obtain a good fit.Treat all exposed timber surfaces with a preservativebefore gluing. When the glue has cured, use a handplane to blend timber insert flush with the sash.

Cuter ref4/26X1/4TC

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INSTALLING ROUTERSEAL

Trend Routerseal incorporates a dovetail barb whichprovides a simple self-fixing system, without requiring agluing operation.

The seal can be used on the frame or the sash, by firstusing a matching dovetail cutter ref. 31/10L to form achannel into which the seal is tucked.

Remove the sash from the frame and use the sidefenceon the router to act a guide.

The seal is inserted in the face of the closing side of thesash, and will compress when in contact with therebate.

13

Dovetail Cutterref. 31/10L

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The seal is very versatile and can be routed into the apexof the rebate in the frame.

When routing in situ, the base is guided along the frameedges. As the corners of the frame will cause anobstruction, a chisel will be required to complete thejob.

For insertion, the seal is easily slid in from one end ofthe rail or stile, or tucked into the apex or closing faceof the frame. The corners should be mitred and siliconecan be applied where the seal meets to prevent moistureentering the hollow section.

13

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JOINING KITCHEN WORKTOP

The joint between worktops that meet has often beenmade by fitting a surface mounted joining strip. Theseare both unhygenic and unsightly.

Postform jigs can be hired or purchased to produce anear invisible joint within 15 minutes.

The main use of the jig is to produce the mason’s mitrewhich consists of a male and female routed edge whichwill perfectly match.

The underside is recessed to accept panel buttconnectors which will hold the joint together tightly.Biscuit jointing is recommended for greater strengthand alignment of the joint.

14

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The jig consists of precisionmachined slots which guide therouter. Bushes are positioned invarious combinations of holes toalign the jig on the worktop. Theholes are colour coded for easyrecognition.

The router is fitted with a 30mmguide bush and a 1/2” router cutterref. 3/83D. The jig is held in placeby either quick action clamps oroptional clamping brackets.

14The Trend COMBI 1001cutting the female sideof the joint

There are several applications for postformjigs, from cutting 90° joints, mitre cornerjoints for hobs, peninsular joints and cornerfinishes, either straight or rounded.

221/2°HOB CORNER

LEFT & RIGHTHAND JOINT

PENINSULAR

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CONCEALED HINGES FOR KITCHEN DOORS

The use of concealed hinges are the most popular wayof securing unit doors. It is important that the hinge islocated correctly into a pre cut hole.

A drill stand and machine bit are the tools usuallyrequired. However, the router is also an ideal tool forproducing neat accurate holes, using a machine bit

designed for use with a router and a simple template toobtain accurate holes. Machine bits are available to suitpopular diameters of concealed hinges.

The template is constructed from MDF with battens toposition it on the door edge. The router is held in placeby the guide bush located in the aperture on the jig.

15Router Hinge Bit ref. 105/35X1/2TC

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SNAPPY® Drill Bit Guides 15

The Trend Snappy quick release drill systemincludes drill bit guides for quick drilling offittings for hinges, drawer runners and otherironmongery pre-drilled with countersunkholes.

1. The positions of the hinges are first marked on thedoors.

2. Set the depth gauge so that the hole will be routed tothe exact required depth. The template is clamped to thedoor and the router is positioned.

3. Rout each of the holes with a gentle downwardpressure.

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SOLID PANELLING

New bath panels can be made from natural timberor MDF boards and decorated to give a solidpanelled effect.

1. Cut new panels to size, allowing for anypipework and fixing locations.

2. Mark the new bath panel with location for thedecorative work on the panel.

3. Design a template to the shape of the panellingyou require from MDF or plywood. To make thetemplate use the router with a beam trammel to producethe arcs and batten guides for the straight edges.Ensure that the template is accurate and free fromblemishes as these will be replicated in the finalworkpiece.

16

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4. Use clamps or double-sided tape to hold thetemplate to the workpiece in the first position required.Fit a bearing guided panel cutter Trend ref. 18/53 orsimilar and allow the bearing guide to follow thetemplate. Alternatively use a standard panel cutter andfit a guide bush to the base of the router to guide itaround the template.

5. Set the depth stop on the router to the depthrequired.

6. Rout in a number of passes following thetemplate anti-clockwise. Repeat procedure for all panelpositions. Fitting a false shoe to a section of the routerbase made from any flat material will help prevent itfrom tipping as you follow the template.

16

Panel cutter ref.18/53X1/4TC

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CONCEALING PIPEWORK AND CABLES

Pipework can be concealed behind panelling orrecessed moulded skirtings.

1. Attach the sidefence to the router and fit a 1/2”diameter radius cutter. Adjust the sidefence and depthof cut to suit. Rout the back of the material to a suitabledepth. Take 2 or 3 passes if required.

2. To decorate the edge of the panel use an ovolocutter either portably or in a table router. Rout bothedges. This method is ideal for hiding television, and HI-FI cables around the room. It is not an advisable methodfor mains electricity cable unless suitably shielded.

17

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3. For pipework, a box section should beconstructed, edges being decorated to suit.

Trend plug cutters with matching countersinksand counterbores for use in a router are idealfor concealing screws and bolts.

PLUG CUTTERS 17Cutter refs.63/12X1/4TC62/12X1/4TC24/12X1/4TC

Cutter ref.9/72X1/4TC

Cutter ref.46/130X1/4TC

Cutter ref.12/6X1/4TC

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INSPECTION HOLES IN FLOORING

The Routabout system offers a unique solutionfound on site where access is required to pipesand electrical work beneath an 18mm or 22mmchipboard floor.

1. Screw the jig to the chipboard floor with a No. 8woodscrew at the position required.

2. The router is fitted with a 30mm guide bush andthe special cutter supplied with the jig. This cutter isdesigned specifically to suit the insert ring that is fittedlater. Insert the router into the jig and rout in a clockwisedirection in a series of passes until the cutter finallybottoms on its depth stop.

3. The jig will prevent the waste piece droppingthrough the hole.

18

Jig

Waste piece

Ring

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The effective drilling tool for electricians,plumbers and locksmiths. Ideal for installationand renovation work.

The 3D BIT

4. Unscrew the jig from the waste piece. Insert aspacer ring (four are supplied with each jig) into thehole. Invert the waste piece and fit it into the insert ring.

The access hole can then be left until required later bythe electrician or the plumber.

18Waste piece(inverted)

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JOINING OF BOARDS

1. Biscuit jointing is fast and effective, and iscommon practice with purpose made joinery. Analternative to a specialised biscuit jointing machine isthe 342X1/4 or 1/2 TC biscuit jointer set which can beused with all routers. The set is ideal for edge to edgejointing.

2. By inserting a biscuit, a normal butt jointbecomes stronger and can be easily aligned. Biscuitsare supplied in three sizes 0, 10 and 20. By fitting oneof three bearings a slot can be accurately cut to suit theappropriate biscuit.

19

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3. For a continuous tongue and groove joint, theTrend cutter ref. 337 provides an effective method ofjoining boards. A groove is machined on one edge andthe tool is then re-set to machine a slot in the otheredge.

4. Upon completion of the joint, using a chamfercutter, the boards can be routed to form a V jointedtongue and groove. Alternatively a purpose madematchlining cutter ref 337 can be used.

19Tongue & groove

Rebate jointUsing a straight cutterwith a sidefence or abearing guided rebatecutter ref. 46/39

Tongue & groove V jointed

Cutter set ref. 337X1/2TC is aone piece set with components

rearranged on the arbor

Assembledfor routingthe tongue

Assembledfor routingthe groove

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TRIMMING AND EDGING

1. Trimming Cutters

Bearing guided trimmers can be used for trimminglaminate or hardwood lippings flush with the workpiece.To achieve best results and to prolong the life of thecutter, no more than 3mm of overhang should be left totrim. They can also be used for shaping material to atemplate.

2. Profiling Cutters

Profiling cutters have bearings mounted on the shankand are used for trimming the workpiece from atemplate. This type of cutter is advantageous whenfollowing templates as the ratio is 1:1, eliminatingcalculations for the offset or margin when cutting asquare edge.

20

Cutter ref.T46/0X1/4TC

Cutter ref.46/09X1/2TC

Cutter ref.46/91X1/4TC

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3. Pierce and Trim

These cutters pierce the laminate before trimmingaround the aperture. They are ideal when laminatingcarcassing or worktops after construction. The base ofthe cutter acts as a guide allowing the cutter to followintricate shapes. Double trimmers can cut top andbottom laminates simultaneously.

4. Combination Trimmers

Combination trimmers have multi-purpose trimmingapplications, including bevel trimming, surfacetrimming and lip trimming. A sidefence is used with thistype of cutter to ensure accuracy. Bearing guidedcutters, are quick and easy to set up, and are designedfor edge trimming, especially curved edges.

20Cutter ref.47/4X1/4TC

Cutter ref.47/7X1/4TC

Cutter ref.46/06X1/4TC

Pierce

then trim

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STOPPED GROOVE OR HOUSING

For shelf construction, rather than using unsightlyfixing blocks, locate the shelf ends in the supportswith stopped housing joints.

1. Select a cutter to match the thickness of shelf,and a suitable guide bush ensuring adequate clearance.

2. Construct a housing jig should a quantity ofshelves require routing. This consists of a slottedsection of MDF. The guide bush runs in the slot which isset to allow for the stopped groove housing.

A batten is fixed at 90 degrees to the underside edge ofthe jig to ensure it is positioned correctly and securely.

21

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3. Lay supports side by side with both the frontedges facing out. Position the template and rout the slotin two passes. Re-position for the remaining shelves.

4. After routing the housing groove, a radius will beleft. By using a rounding over cutter, the shelf can beadapted to the radius, leaving a nosing.

Alternatively a notch can be cut out of the shelf to bringit flush to the front.

21

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CONSTRUCTION OF RAISED PANEL DOORS

1. Traditionally, panelled doors involved complexmortise and tenon joints. The router mounted in thetable and used in conjunction with a profile and scriberset, now produce an equivalent joint with greater ease.There are several profiles available with raised panelcutters to match.

2. As the name implies the ‘profile and scriber’cutter performs both operations by re-arranging theblock, groover and bearing.

Raised panels can be made from solid wood or MDF andshaped by panel cutters again mounted in a table.

22Panel Cutterref. 18/83X1/2TC

Profile Scriber ref. PSC/1X1/2TC

Stile Rail Panel

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3. The scribing of the rail is cut first with the faceside uppermost. The bearing regulates the depth. Withall the scribes cut, re-arrange the cutter to profile all thecomponents face side to the table.

4. When machined, the panel locates into thegroove. Several passes with the panel cutter will berequired to obtain the correct depth. Dry assemble allcomponents to ensure a tight fit. Glue joints and crampup. The panel is left unglued to allow movement overtime.

22Scribing the ends

Staggering the cutting facesreduces impact and willimprove the finish.

IMPORTANT

ScribeProfileProfiling the inside edges

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A useful application for bearing guided profilers isfor straightening the edges of boards.

1. By using a straight edge or chalk line, mark astraight line. If the width of waste is more than3mm, remove excess material with a jigsaw.

2. Clamp a wide straight edged batten against yourmarked line.

3. Fit a template profiling cutter which hascapacity to trim the thickness of the material.

4. Adjust the depth ofthe cutter so that thebearing runs alongthe batten guide.

5. Always retract thecutter by releasingthe plunge lock onthe router when youhave finished.

STRAIGHTENING EDGES23

Template Profilerref. 46/09X1/2TC

Feed direction

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JOINT HOUSINGS

Barefaced and through housings are all easilymachined with the router. They are often used indoor lining construction for the head or transomof a lining.

1. Lay the sections side by side and mark theposition for the groove. Score with a knife to preventfeathering.

2. Fit a straight cutter ref. 3/80X1/4TC.

3. Loosely fit a Clamp Guide, adjust door jambsensuring marked grooves run parallel to each other.

4. Tighten the clamping mechanism and rout agroove 1/2” deep in two passes.

5. Rout the transom with a similar procedure,adjusting the Clamp Guide at either end to cut thetongue.

24Head

Borrowedlight

Jamb

Transom

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Applying a decorative mould to enhance the edge of abook case or vanity unit is a straight-forward operation.One can either use standard shaped panel cutters suchas cove, chamfer or rounding over with a sidefence forguidance, or with self-guided cutters.

With these, setting up is kept to a minimum as theyfollow the board edge. They are ideal for mouldingcurved workpieces. By adjusting the height of the cutteror by fitting alternative bearings, different moulds can becreated.

MOULDING DECORATIVE EDGES25Radius cutter ref.

12/6X1/4TCOvolo cutter ref.46/140X1/4TC

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Stopped mouldingsare elegant, effectiveand highlight the trueshape of the cutterused.

A larger bearing fitted to the cuttergives a rounded over effect without thesteps of an ovolo mould.

Ovolo cutter ref. 46/130X1/4TC

Coving cutter ref.46/260X1/4TC

25

Here reducing the depthof cut, a less pronouncedand symmetrical mould isformed.

By reducing thedepth of thecutter the topstep or quirk isremoved givinga softerappearance.

Ogee cutter ref. 46/230X1/4TC

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Replacing decorative timberbarge boards requires repetitivemachining of long boards to a setpattern. This therefore lendsitself to routing operations usinga template and a guide bushfitted to the router.

See page 7 for details on choiceof cutter and guide bush.

ROUTING DECORATIVE BARGE BOARDS

1. If possible, first remove the oldbargeboard. The pattern should repeat, whichwill enable template length to be kept to aminimum. Trace around the pattern on1/4” plywood or MDF.

2. Choose a cuttersuitable for the thickness ofthe board and a guide bushthat will give sufficientclearance around the cutter. Ifthe pattern has a small internalradius choose a cutter andguide bush with a smalldiameter to match.

26 D

dGable end

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266. The routing operation consists of clamping thetemplate to the workpiece, routing to the pattern andrepositioning the template until the pattern isreproduced along the whole length.

7. If both sides of the gable end require replacing,use the finished workpiece as a the template for thesecond board and a narrow template profiler cutter.

3. Calculate the offset between the cutter and guidebush and deduct this from the outside edge of thepattern. Add the offset to any internal part of thepattern.

4. Cut it to shape with a jigsaw and remove allirregularities as these will be reproduced in the finishedboard.

5. Fit an edge batten to aid the correct positioningof the template to the workpiece.

Edge batten

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The router can be used forproducing a whole range ofdecorative mouldings suchas skirting, architraves anddado rails.

SKIRTING, ARCHITRAVE AND DADO

Panel Raising Cutterref. 18X90X1/2TC

27

Beading and ReedingCutter ref. 9/76X1/4TC

Cornice Cutter ref. 92/11X1/2TC

Skirting Cutterref. 90/12X1/2TC

Dado Rail Cutterref. 93/10X1/2TC

Cutting bothedges for asymmetrical

mould

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1. Corner blocks provide adecorative feature for fire surroundsor to complement fluted architravearound door and frames.

2. A specialised Trend drillingtool is available for use in a pillardrill. A wide choice of removableknives allow a variety of rosettepatterns to be created.

3. Realistic carved rosettes canbe produced by using the TrendRouter Carver system. This uses aunique template system inconjunction with a special guidedcutter to give either a rose petal orsunflower style.

CORNER BLOCKS 28Rosette Drilling Tool

ref. RDT/SETCutter ref.

RCCX8MM or RCCX1/2TC

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FLUTING AND CHAMFERING

2. Chamfers can be routed freehand using the bearingor additional sidefence to guide the router. When routingusing a bearing guide care must be taken when entering andleaving the workpiece to prevent burning. A splayed finishwill be left at either end.

Bearing Guided Chamfer Cutterref. 46/37x1/4TC

Feed direction

29Chamfering Edges

1. Decorative chamfered edgesoften found on newel posts are easy toachieve with a bearing guided chamfercutter. One should first mark the lengthof the chamfer on to your workpiece.

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Fluting

Mark the centre lines of the flutes onto theworkpiece. One pass with the router will removethe waste and a second will give a superior finish.A batten clamped at the beginning and end willprevent overcutting.

Radius Cutterwith 1/2” diameter ref. 12/6X1/4TC

29

Feed direction

1 3 2

To avoid having to re-set theshoe fence, cut flute 1 first,switch sides to cut flute 2, thenre-set to cut flute 3.

QUICK TIP

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Hardwoods are often used for corner edging in carcassconstruction as they hide the core material of veneeredboards. They also provide a robust edge which wouldotherwise be easily damaged. Hardwood edgings can bemoulded using a variety of different cutters without thefear of exposing the core of a veneered board.

Often edgings are butt jointed but for improved strengthbarefaced tongue and groove joints can be used or loosetongues. These are easily constructed with straightcutters, or biscuit jointing cutter sets.

CORNER EDGING OR LIPPINGS30 Cutter ref.T46/01X1/4TCused to trim the edging

Loose tongue

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Often the edging can be moulded with standard profile shaping cutters which are fitted with bearings.

30

2nd pass1st pass

Rounding overCutter ref. 46/93X1/4TC

ChamferCutter ref.46/37X1/4TC

Rounding overCutter ref.46/150X1/2TC

BevelCutter ref.46/38X1/2TC

Corner BeadCutter ref.9/72X1/4TCused twice

BeadCutter ref.9/72X1/4TC

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Trend Machinery & Cutting Tools LtdPenfold Works Imperial Way

Watford Herts WD2 4YF Tel: 01923 249911 Fax: 01923 236879

Email: [email protected]: http://www.trendm.co.uk

TREND BOOK/SS4 r o u t i n g t e c h n o l o g y

R

trendtrend

6 PIECE 1/2” SHANK CUTTER SETA set of six selected cutters with 1/2” shankssupplied in a wooden box. The set includes abearing guided chamfer, an ogee, an ovolo, atrimmer and rebater, together with a straightcutter. Three extra sizes of bearing are alsoincluded for converting the ovolo to a roundingover cutter and to obtain alternative rebate sizes.All cutters are Tungsten Carbide Tipped andsuitable for use on-site or around the home onnatural timber or manmade materials such asMDF, plywood or chipboard.

Order ref.: _____________SET/SS4X1/2TC

Available from your local Trend stockist.

BOOK/SS4 v1.0