Embed Size (px)
Citation preview
No 300 / Winter Trends Guide 2015
-
It’s forever...and ever
Multi-size rings and rings that becomes bracelet Love between mother and daughter is really forever. Our jewels are forever too. Thanks to an exclusive patented system, they can be adapted to the fingers of a child or a mother. A jewel that can accompany you throughout life and is for all situations. Changing always without ever changing.
www.serafinoconsoli.com
A s I jot down these words, I am sitting in a bus that is winding
its way through the picturesque jungle forests of northern Thailand.
After having attended GIT 2014 (the Gem & Jewelry Institute of Thailand’s 2014 gem conference)—where I gave a presentation on the trends and colours in jewellery for 2015—I joined a group of gemmologists and geologists for the post- conference excursion to visit deposits of sapphire and spinel in the area.
My report on both the conference and the excursion will follow later, but for now, I wanted to share with you a wonderful example of how some individuals in our industry are making a big difference in the lives of others.
When in the planning stages for the conference and deciding on a logo design for the GIT 2014, Dr. Pornsawat Wathanakul, GIT director, and her team chose a theme that is dear to the hearts of the Thai people. The logo not only reflects the beloved Asian elephant, but it was actually painted by a real elephant.
Yes, you read right. The logo was actually painted by a living elephant.
Dr. Wathanakul had sent her team to the Thai Elephant Conservation Center (TECC), near the city of Chiang Mai, to have three logos painted by their elephants, from which the final was chosen to represent the conference.
During GIT 2014, the three orig-inal paintings were auctioned off to raise money for the TECC and the very valuable work that it does in helping the nation’s elephants. In addition to the winning bids, other participants donated money to this worthy cause, with the proceeds given to the TECC officials during our visit to the center as part of the group excursion.
Back to my bus ride. The group has just left the conservation center where we could see first-hand the work the TECC does in helping these magnificent animals as well as witnessing for ourselves how they amazingly put paint to canvas.
The TECC was founded in 1993 under Royal Patronage and now cares for more than 130 elephants, including ten white elephants belonging to the Royal Family, which are housed in the Royal Elephant Stables. Activities promoted by the cen-ter include various shows, bathing, and a homestay program where visitors can live with the trainers and trek on elephants through the forest.
On a different note, the TECC also con-ducts research in reproduction and the biomechanics of how elephants move. It also operates an onsite hospital and man-
EDITOR’S LETTER
MAKING A BIG DIFFERENCE
ages Thailand’s first mobile clinic, treating elephants free of charge.
Although a visit to the hospital was not generally on the tour, we were allowed to stop there for a few moments. Among the various patients was an elephant that had stepped on a landmine and had been brought in by local villagers. So sadly, these horrors still exist in some areas near Thailand’s northern borders and wreak havoc on animals as well as people. All of us were deeply moved by what we saw, especially when one of the hos-pital staff said the animal’s future was uncertain. (thailandelephant.org)
This issue is our 2015 Trends Guide, where we present the trends in jewel-lery design and fashion colours for the upcoming year. We also offer a series of interviews on such diverse topics as the rise of bitcoin as a payment option for retailers, the latest in social marketing, and what’s new in gemstone treatments, among others.
As usual, we also feature profiles and interviews with up-and-coming designers and brands as well as jewellery showcased at the world’s most important trade fairs.
Happy Reading and a Very Happy and Prosperous New Year to you all.
CynthiaCynthia UnninayarEditor-in-ChiefCIJ Trends & Colours
Here I am with one of the elephants at the Thai Elephant Conservation Center.
04
ED ITOR’S LETTER04 Making a Big Difference
DES IGNER PROFI LES08 Bizzotto Gioielli10 Mokoso Atelier – Beyond Amazing15 Muzo International – Mining and More35 Berr & Partners SA in the Kingdom of the Golden Pagodas 40 Emotion France – France at Baselworld 2015
21 TOP TEN TRENDS IN JEWELLERY DES IGN
TOP TEN FASH ION COLOURS44 Top Ten Fashion Colours for Spring 2015
I NTERVI EWS12 Caroline C – Elegant Simplicity, Eternal42 Colour Your World with Diamonds56 Trends in Gemstones and Treatments58 The Rise of Bitcoin60 Forget Public Relations – The Real Game Is Social Relations
TRENDS & COLOURS62 If It Ain’t Baroque, Don’t Fix It64 Dazzling Diamonds66 Opposites Attract68 Radiant Rainbows
MARKETPLACE70 Beautiful in Bangkok74 Hong Kong – Where the World Meets77 It’s Gold Silver Time in Warsaw 80 Intergem Marks 30 Years of Uniqueness
82 I NDEX
I N T H I S I S S U E
No 299 / Summer 2014
-
ON THE COVER
45
33
81
37
30
16
50
30
81
33
37
16
www.lydiacourteille.com
50
A selection of precious jewellery by Lydia Courteille.
A French jewellery designer based in Paris, Lydia Courteille is fond of iridescent gems such as opal, moonstone, and cat’s eye. She combines these stones with her unique designs, playing with light to create a unique and mysterious atmosphere.
45
40
76
Editor-in-Chief: Cynthia Unninayar • Contributors: Diana S. Zimmerman, T. R. Flora, Barbara Wheat, Antonella Scorta, • Advertising Contacts: Nathalie Glattfelder [email protected], T +41 22 307 7832; Italy - Alessandra Arati, [email protected], T +39 024 851 7853; Spain - Carles Sapena [email protected], T +34 93 112 7113; Asia - Maggie Tong, [email protected], T + 852 9658 1830; India - Bhupal Potdar, [email protected], T +91 98 2115 1035; USA - Karen Nuckols, [email protected], T +1 610 986 7285
Managing Director: Philippe Maillard • Website: www.CIJintl.com. Published by Europa Star HBM SA, 25 Route des Acacias, 1227 Carouge, Geneva, Switzerland, T +41 22 307 7837; Fax: +41 22 300 3748; Email: [email protected]
Printed in Geneva by SRO-Kundig • Copyright 2014 by Europa Star • www.europastar.comAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the written permission of CIJ Trends & Colours.
06
t Illustration by Natalie Shau
A JEWELLERY SPECIAL BY EUROPA STAR
News, dazzling jewellery, trends & colours
DAILY ON
THE GOLDEN BUCKLE Unique belts for the wrist
Belt Buckle collection by Bizzotto Gioielli, skillfully handcrafted in the true nature of Made in Italy, has an exclusive design that makes every piece sophisticated and fun at the same time.
The luxurious elegance of 18Kt. gold buckle set with diamonds encircles the wrist in a shimmering hug.
THE FIRMAMENT COLLECTION, The Mysterious Charm
of a Starry SkyBizzotto Gioielli introduces a unique collection that perfectly combines the sparkle of diamonds and the softness of gold chains intricately interwoven into celestial jewelry that transport you to a magical star-studded evening sky.Every piece from the Firmament collection is light, smooth and soft to the touch: bracelets, rings and earrings crafted in 18 Kt. yellow and rose gold –satin-finished for a delicate effect; each piece is embellished with sparkling diamonds.
An original, refined and delicate jewelry collection that touches the skin in a tender caress.
once in a while, a jeweller escapes the trajectory of mere beauty to elevate
its art to an entirely new dimension. The innovatively brilliant designs of MKS Jew-elry International, under its house brand, Mokoso Atelier, go beyond amazing. They continually surpass the expectations of even the most discerning clients.
The Mokoso brand stands at the pin-nacle of aesthetic achievement, unpar-alleled craftsmanship, technical mastery, and poetic imagination. This is not jewellery you simply wear. This is jewellery you experi-ence on every emotional level. From inter-nal feelings of ultimate luxury and fascina-tion to the undeniable intrigue of enviable onlookers, Mosoko jewels evoke feelings so enchanting they’re almost magical.
Three and a half decades ago, MKS began captivating minds and hearts with its highly original designs. Today, celebri-ties and royals across the globe collect Mokoso’s award-winning pieces. And it’s no wonder. Every collection endeavours to capture the illusive nature of life—some in articulated three-dimension. Others intrigue with settings of invisibility, or captivate with precious jewels that rotate 360 degrees. And still others inspire imagination with the majestic fluttering of butterfly wings.
The master craftsmen at MKS bring each designer’s artistic inspiration to life with uncanny expertise and meticulous atten-tion to detail. Front and back, every jewel
personifies perfection—the unquestion-
able signature of the masterpieces that Mokoso has come to symbolize.
Setting imagination free is a hallmark at Mokoso. It’s Uncaged Life™ Collection with its stylized birdcage and white and choco-late diamonds evokes the inner longing within all of us to fly forever free.
Flutterfly™ captures our sense of whimsy with gold, diamond and vibrantly coloured precious gem wings that flutter. Mokoso’s unique mechanism creates the move-ment with such grace that one can eas-ily imagine that these stunning butterflies really can fly.
Mokoso also tempts our palate with the sheer beauty of Rock Candy—irresistible treats that sparkle like finely spun sugar crystals. Each earring, necklace, and ring bursts forth in delicious colour, as does Mokoso’s Summer Berry Sling™ collection. Featuring vibrantly fresh precious stones, these alluring jewels are a toast to fun, joy, and the finer things in life.
Mokoso also invites us to think beyond the lateral and celebrate depth in Third Dimension™. This thought-provoking col-lection sharpens our senses by allowing us to uncover intricate layering patterns woven throughout geometric structures. Each new glimpse reveals yet another design dimension.
The intertwined nature of Mokoso’s Twist and Turn™ collection inspires the contem-porary flow of our fluid lifestyles. Continu-ous and reinventing gold and diamond-studded lines sparkle with the excitement and vibrancy of futures untold.
But what is life without dreams? Mokoso helps you capture each one in its magical Dream Catcher collection. These jewel-studded Native American-inspired talis-mans symbolize all that is positive, while warding off evil spirits. Close your eyes and dream—you may be surprised.
With over thirty different collections and a thiry-five-year history of award-winning designs—both internally branded and manufactured for other companies—MKS along with its phenomenally success-ful new house brand, Mokoso Atelier, are undeniably Beyond Amazing. www.MOKOSOATELIER.com
BEYOND AMAZING
PROFILEMOKOSO ATELIER
By DIANA S. ZIMMERMAN
10
SUDDENLY YOU STOP. THERE IT IS. THE MOST REMARKABLE PIECE
OF JEWELLERY YOU’VE EVER SEEN. PERFECT FOR HER.
PERFECT FROM HIM.
Caroline Chartouni
I N T E R V I E WD
ESIG
N CAROLINE C – ELEGANT SIMPLICITY, ETERNALOne of today’s hottest designers of fine jewellery is Caroline Chartouni. A winner of prestigious AGTA awards for three consecutive years, she originally hails from the world of fashion and art, but now creates elegant and emotional focal points for the hand, finger, ears, and neck. To learn more about this remarkably talented artist, CIJ TRENDS &
COLOURS spoke with Ms. Chartouni, the creative force behind her brand, Caroline C.Interview conducted by Cynthia Unninayar
CIJTC: What made you shift from art and designing fashion to creating fine jewellery?Caroline Chartouni: Fashion and jewellery are not that far apart in their expression. Both adorn us.
Both surprise us. Both make a statement. Jewellery is, in fact, wearable art. Even though the material is totally different, I found it a natural progression to move
into creating original works with gemstones and metal rather than fabric or paint. I might add, too, that jewellery can endure forever, handed down as cherished heirlooms from generation to generation, while fashion is more ephemeral in nature.
CIJTC: Most of your pieces use coloured gemstones. Which stones do you prefer, and how do you find them?
CC: We use colour because it gives depth to jewellery. It can make it soft and subtle or exuberant and bold. Colour expresses feelings—it creates
feelings. When light hits a gemstone, it makes it come alive. I appreciate all gems. They have meaning and attraction, from the glimmer of spinel to the sparkle of diamond, from the radiance of sapphire to the fire of an orange spessartite, and the shimmering rainbows of opal. Having said that,
one stone holds a special place in my heart—Paraiba tourmaline. The colour is incomparable and it lends itself to infinite design possibilities. As for sourcing our
gems, the answer is simple—around the world. We even go directly to the mines to find the perfect stones for special custom pieces.
CIJTC: Since you source your own stones, do you also sell loose faceted gems to other dealers and retailers?CC: Yes. We carry of wide range of gems in a multitude of sizes, from those used in casual jewellery to very rare gems destined for collectors. This is in addition to the fine jewellery crafted by the Caroline C brand.
CIJTC: What is your design philosophy?CC: Simplicity is the defining element of elegance. A perfect piece of jewellery is much more than the value of the gemstone or the metal. It has a symbolic essence. Whether a gift of romance or parental love, or something that a woman purchases for herself, jewellery is personal and must connect to the wearer. A part of this connection is ensuring that our designs evoke symmetry and fluidity, and that their beauty shines, but never overpowers the personality of the wearer.
CIJTC: Who are your clientele?CC: Everyone who appreciates fine jewellery and the high quality of our workmanship, which extends equal-ly to the back of the piece, making it as beautiful as the front. Many of our consumer clients include first-time jewellery buyers who are looking to purchase the three must-haves: a simple elegant bangle that goes with everything, day or night; a fashionable ring with a solitaire of her favourite stone; and an elegant pair of earrings that complements her face. Other clients include collectors, and we also deal with select fine retailers.
CIJTC: Since your pieces are crafted in limited series and many are one-of-a-kind, do your clients purchase these high-end pieces for investment?CC: Yes. We have clients who want the perfect, rare, and collectable gemstones for investment. But, what is most important to them is that the design is equal to the seduction and sublime beauty of the jewel. They are looking for playful and highly sophisticated styles that they can enjoy. These collectors fall in love with their pieces and wear them often. (CarolineC.com)
12
18 Karat - Platinum - Fine Gems
The Essence of Timeless Design
Trade Showroom San Francisco (415) 621-8880 [email protected] www.jyescorp.com
T he lure of Muzo emeralds continues, as modern treasure hunters persist
in searching the oceans for sunken sailing vessels that may have carried chests filled with the precious green Colombian stones on their voyages headed to Spain and other parts of the world long ago.
Today, emeralds also encite atten-tion on the Red Carpet and at auction houses around the world. This year’s Cannes Film Festival saw an abundance of emerald jewellery adorned by celebrities, with Muzo emeralds topping the list.
THE WORLD’S MOST EXCEPTIONAL STONESWhen it comes to extraordinary em-
eralds, however, the Red Carpet and auction houses are only part of the story. Muzo mines are the source of such incredible gems as the Fura. This 15,000-carat (2.270 kg) rough emer-ald is five times larger than the famous Unguentarium located in the Vienna Imperial Treasury. The incredible Fura was put on public display for the first time in 2011 at the Minergemas fair in Bogotá, Colombia.
While size matters, Muzo is also the home of the world’s most valuable rough emer-ald—the 2,000-carat Tena—named after a mythical queen from the region whose tears were said to have created the green gems. The Tena’s estimated worth, based on its exquisite colour, brightness, and size, far exceeds that of the emerald brooch once owned by Russian Empress Cathe-rine the Great that sold at auction in 2010 for $1,650,500.
Emeralds mined at Muzo come in a variety of sizes, and are prized for their
quality, clarity, and ideal colour, which ranges from saturated green to a slight-ly bluish-green hue. One such stone, a magnificent 12.01-carat blue-green gem, shattered the world record for carat price at a Sotheby’s auction in Geneva, garnering $119,000 per carat for a total price of $1,440,219. Another exceptional Muzo emerald sold at Christie’s for $835,682. The square-cut 9.27-carat stone is highly transparent and certified free of any type of enhancement.
CONTROLLING THE VALUE CHAINThe Muzo mine is now wholly operated
by Muzo International. Not only does the company mine the stones, but it also cuts and polishes every gem—all under the strict safety protocols and environmental stewardship that Muzo International has adopted as company policy.
With complete control of the val-ue chain from mine to market, Muzo International is able to ensure that both the gemstones themselves and the
methods by which they have been mined and processed are of the highest quality. Several factors differentiate Muzo emeralds from other gemstones on the market today. In terms of quality, only non-permanent cedar oil is used for clarity enhancement of the stones when necessary.
Each emerald is accompanied by a certificate confirming its origin and authenticity as a Muzo emerald from a highly respected independent gemmo-logical laboratory in Switzerland.
Muzo International ensures traceability as each emerald is individually numbered and can be traced back to the rough material it originated from.
Proper disclosure is not just a stan-dard to the company, but is an added assurance of commitment to its customers.
By controlling every aspect of emerald production, from the mines through the stones’ expert cutting and polishing, right up to the final marketing of the finished gems, Muzo International not only main-tains absolute control over the quality of
Muzo mines produce a range of sizes. Shown here is a 7.46-ct emerald, cut in Muzo Interational’s workshops from a 14.74-ct rough, mined July 12, 2-13. (Photo: ©Muzo International)
A sample of a Muzo emerald in its matrix on display at one of the any events where Muzo International was exhibiting.
MUZO INTERNATIONALMINING AND MORE
By BARBARA WHEATMMPROFILE
MUZO
15
MUZO, COLOMBIA IS HOME TO AN EXTENSIVE AREA OF EMERALD DEPOSITS THAT HAVE BEEN MINED CONTINUOUSLY SINCE THE MID-16TH CENTURY. ALTHOUGH THE MUZO INDIANS WERE SUCCESSFUL FOR A TIME IN KEEPING THE DEPOSITS SECRET FROM THE SPANIARDS, THE
CONQUISTADORS DISCOVERED THE LOCATION OF THE LEGENDARY MINES IN 1538.
t In August 2014, Muzo International’s CSR department implemented a new renovation project at one of the local schools in the Muzo region. (Photo: ©MTC)
its emeralds, but the company is also im-proving the quality of life for people in the entire region.
COMMITMENT TO THE COMMUNITYMuzo International has developed a
Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) department to oversee the company’s commitment not only to its miners, but to the community as a whole and to the environment.
Reforestation, improved sanitary con-ditions, and public health campaigns, with a focus on the control of tropical diseases through vaccination and health care, are all part of Muzo International’s overall goal to create an organizational culture committed to sustainable mining development and the promotion of per-sonal and business growth in a responsible framework.
Among its many projects over the last few years, the most recent has been a school renovation in August 2014. Muzo International completely renovated classrooms at the Institución Educativa La Floresta school, which had been deteriorating for some time. The main goal of the project was to provide im-proved conditions for schoolchildren and teachers in order to create a better learn-ing environment.
In a separate project in the Boyacá region, the company constructed a can-teen at the Los Cristales school to provide children with meal service, an important step in providing proper nutrition and improving student concentration levels during the school day.
Pupils and their teacher at the Los Cristales school celebrate the new canteen that was offered by Muzo International. (Photo: ©MTC)
BEST PRACTICESClearly proud of its commitment to the
community, Muzo International also takes pride in the fact that its cutting workshops in Bogota have been awarded ISO 9001 certification.
This official recognition has resulted from the company’s systematic and best prac-tices approach to all internal processes, and includes areas such as innovation and technology, efficient process control, development of new activities, compli-ance with legal and contractual regula-tions, and the continuous improvement in the quality of services, among others.
Last Year Muzo International brought renowned miner and gem dealer Ron Ringsrud on board as Director of Operations and Sales.
Emeralds are hand faceted and polished in Muzo International’s own cutting facilities in Bogotá. (Photo: ©Serge Sibert)
u A 6.87-ct emerald cut in Muzo Interational’s workshops, from a 38.16-ct rough, certified resin-free. (Photo: ©Muzo International)
A 30-year veteran of the global emerald trade, Ringsrud is the author of the book, Emeralds, A Passionate Guide, one of the industry’s most comprehensive works on the green gems.
After visiting the company’s cut-ting headquarters he commented, “I am impressed by the strong focus on technology and personnel at Muzo. They really are bringing the mine forward into the new century.”And, as Muzo International continues to move the mine forward with the production of fabulous emeralds, it is contributing so much more to the many lives it touches.
MUZOEMERALD.COM
16
Trade Showroom San Francisco (415) 621-8880 [email protected] www.jyescorp.com
18 Karat - Platinum - Fine Gems
The Essence of Timeless Design
MARCH 19 – 26, 2015
A unique window to the universe of watches and jewellery where all key players showcase trendsetting creations
and innovations. Seize this opportunity to experience passion, precision and perfection.
BASELW
ORLD
.CO
M
PlateTableware or part of a watch movement?
Discover the world of Fine Watchmakingat www.hautehorlogerie.org
Plate | The plate which bears the various movement parts and in particular the bridges. The dial is usually affixed to the bottom side of the plate. The plate is pierced with holes for the screws and recesses for the jewels in which the pivots of the movement wheels will run.
THE FOUNDATION’S PARTNERS | A. LANGE & SÖHNE | AUDEMARS PIGUET | BAUME & MERCIER | BOVET 1822 | CARTIER | CHANEL | CHOPARD | CHRISTOPHE CLARET
DE BETHUNE | GIRARD-PERREGAUX | GREUBEL FORSEY | HARRY WINSTON | HERMÈS | IWC | JAEGER-LECOULTRE | LOUIS VUITTON | MONTBLANC | OFFICINE PANERAI
PARMIGIANI FLEURIER | PIAGET | RALPH LAUREN | RICHARD MILLE | ROGER DUBUIS | TAG HEUER | VACHERON CONSTANTIN | VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
atel
ier-
zupp
inge
r.ch
21
Alishan
Jye Luxury Collection
Alessio Boschi
Picchiotti
GianaMayra
Misis
Outfit by Roberto Verino (photo: Mecedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid)
Bizzotto Gioielli
TTF
Katherine Jetter
Monplaisir
Jewelmer Joaillerie
Sorellina
Staurino
T O P T E N T R E N D SBy
Cyn
thia
Unn
inay
ar
1 FLORA & FAUNAPerennial favourites in fine jewellery, both stylized and realistic, are those that evoke the natural world. For 2015, the most prevalent nature-inspired themes are flowers and butterflies, followed by birds, bees, snakes, and creatures of the deep. Yet, don’t count out the many frogs, cats, dogs, horses, spiders, and
jungle animals that make up part of this year’s bejeweled Flora and Fauna.
Oscar Heyman
Jacob & Co.
Aaron Basha
Gumuchian
GianaMayra
HeymanHeyman
Bergio
Xin Jewellery
Supreme Jewelry
Luca Carati
2 Lacy looksOne of the most creative counterpoints to the economic times of the day, the lacy look, with its negative spaces, evokes airy elegance in all types of metals, whether gold, platinum, silver, or palladium, by themselves or set with gemstones and diamonds, to create a luxurious look for less.
Outfit by Christophe Guillaume
Jane BohanAngelique de
ParisJack Kelege
Bohemme
Andrew Hamilton Crawford
Metalsmiths Sterling
Jye Luxury Collection
Euro Pearl
T O P T E N T R E N D SBy
Cyn
thia
Unn
inay
ar
My Vice
Sergio Rossi
Buccellati
Euro PearlEuro Pearl
Mokoso Atelier
22
“Our business relies
on the greater margins we get from
colored gemstone and cultured pearl sales.
Other product categories
the margins are razor thin.
The pricing and selection we see at
GemFair Tucson allows us to bring
a much greater profit
to the bottom line.”
Clayton BrombergOwnerUnderwood JewelersJacksonville, Florida
Show/Hotel Information: AGTA.org AGTA Office: 800-972-1162
Anita Sondore
Kismet
Sergio Rossi
Thistle & Bee
Mark Schneider
Carlo Moretti
3 G E O m e t r i c s
Meghna
One of today’s most popular design directions in fashion, home decor, and designer jewellery involves geometric patterns. Anything goes, as
long as the angles are sharp, defined, and aesthetically interesting.
Outfit by Desigual (photo: Mercedes Benz
Fashion Week Madrid)
Lorenz Baumer
Suzanne Kalan
H.Stern
Elena Kriegner
Pinar Oner
Penny Preville
T O P T E N T R E N D SBy
Cyn
thia
Unn
inay
ar
Sharart
Lorenz Baumer
Stephen Webster
Octium
25
Lydia Courteille
Stephen Webster
Sutra
Meghna
Roberto Bravo
Inbar
4 DIGITAL EXPRESSION
Nada G
Jewels for the fingers are taking on new dimensions. Not only are rings adorning two, three, or even four fingers at a time, but designers are embellishing a single finger with precious metals, set with diamonds and gemstones. These elongated “Knuckle” or “Armour” rings offer sophisticated and creative digital expressions.
Outfit by Delores Cortes (photo:
Mercedes Benz Fashion Week
Madrid)
Imogen Belfield
Sylvie Corbelin
Djula
Morphee
Casato
Borgioni
Jacob & Co.
Dada Arrigoni
T O P T E N T R E N D SBy
Cyn
thia
Unn
inay
ar
Mokoso Atelier
Angelique de Paris
26
Sethi Couture
Bvlgari
Gintare
Sylvie Corbelin
Amali
Hoops may be the perennial favourite, followed by the more conservative studs, but increasing num-bers of designers are showcasing more exotic styles. Earrings no longer simply hang down from the ear, but curve over and above it in the form of ear cuffs and climbers.These upwardly mobile pieces join their counterparts that creatively dust the shoulder and those that come together in a range of
interchangeable pieces to highlight this season’s exotic earwear.
Outfit by Slava Zaitsev (photo: Oleg Nikishin, Mercedes Benz Fash-ion Week Russia)
Carrera y Carrera
Kismet
Sharart and Kavant
Van der Bauwede
Rina Limor
T O P T E N T R E N D SBy
Cyn
thia
Unn
inay
ar
Sandy Leong
29
ww
www
w
ww
www
w www
www
wwwww
Bohemme
MVee
Paolo Piovan
Sicis Watches
6 O N T H E E D G E
Jade Chiu
DeGrisogono
Bomberg
Vida
Koumi Koumi
Horsecka
Anthony Lent
Thompson
T O P T E N T R E N D SBy
Cyn
thia
Unn
inay
ar
T h e most common motif
in the edgy category is the skull, followed by bones, knives, spikes, and
similar symbols. Interpreted literally and figuratively in gold, silver, and other mate-rials, gothic jewellery is so popular that
even watch and eyewear companies are featuring original creations
on the edge.
Outfit by Slava Zaitsev (photo: Oleg Nikishin, Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Russia)
30
CREATIONJewellery district
LOOKJewellery district
ESSENCEPrecious Components district
ICONJewellery district
EXPRESSIONPackaging & VisualMerchandising district
EVOLUTIONT-Gold district
ESSENCEGem World district
THE FUTURE.NOW. 2015
CHOOSE YOUR JEWELLERY PATH.
JANUARY 23 - 28, 2015
SEPTEMBER 5 - 9, 2015
A TRADE SHOWLIKE A DIAMOND: FULL OF FACETSINHORGENTA MUNICH – AS MULTIFACETED AS THE INDUSTRY ITSELF.
INHORGENTA.COMINHORGENTA-BLOG.COM
GET YOUR TICKET NOW: INhORGENTa.COm/TICKET
FEBRUARY 20 – 23, 2015
Victor Veylan
Old World Chain
Giovanni Ferraris
Zorab
7 WINSOME WRISTWEAR
Ayaka Nishi
Bracelets, bangles, and cuffs are worn in a great variety of creative ways, on the wrist, combined with a ring, or as a signature piece on the upper arm. Whether thick or thin, lacy or solid, stacked or single, or made of wrapped strands of beads, chains, or gems, winsome wristwear offers the
perfect way to add individuality to any ensemble.
Outfit by Desigual (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid)
Anahita
Pinar Oner
HilatLoretta Castoro
Nguyen
Alisa
Andrea Candela
T O P T E N T R E N D SBy
Cyn
thia
Unn
inay
ar
33
Abellán
Stephen Webster
Stephen Venezia
8 TEMPTING TASSELS
Bayco
The tassel trend, including “Fringe” styles, continues into 2015 with an even wider variety of earrings and pendants in a multitude of coloured gemstones, rough diamonds, seed
pearls, and metallic chains.
Outfit by Aristocrazy (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid)
Meissen
A&Furst
Mazza
Goshwara
Carla Amorim
Alessio Boschi
Rina Limor
T O P T E N T R E N D SBy
Cyn
thia
Unn
inay
ar
34
BaganRing in 18K pink gold (7.51g) set with a 4.89-ct natural red Burmese spinel and two white pear-shaped diamonds (0.37ct), surrounded by diamonds (0.62ct).
LotusRing in 18K white gold (6.89g), set with a 5.42-ct natural vivid orangy-red Burmese spinel and four round white diamonds (0.20ct), surrounded by diamonds (0.86ct).
DharmaRing in 18K pink gold (7.53g), set with a 3.03-ct natural vivid pink Burmese spinel, surrounded by pink sapphires (1.03cts) and white diamonds (0.39ct).
HimalayaRing in 18K white gold (4.49g) set with a 3.22-ct natural royal blue Burmese sapphire and two pear-shaped white diamonds (0.37ct), surrounded by diamonds (0.14ct).
Elke Berr examines gemstones during a recent trip to Myanmar.
IN THE KINGDOM OF THE GOLDEN PAGODAS
As part of their never-ending quest to collect the most perfect and exceptional gemstones, Elke Berr and her husband, Thomas, showcase their new-found treasures
embodied in a mythical and fascinating jewellery collection.
For more than 28 years, Elke and �omas Berr have unearthed the crème de la crème
of precious gemstones to the joy of their many clients. And, even though their com-pany, Berr & Partners SA, is widely recog-nized for the exceptional quality of its natural gems, high standards of craftsmanship, and excellent customer service, the couple goes even further, promoting and upholding the professional and ethical standards of the gem-stone industry.
Because of their high level of expertise, Elke and �omas are also consultants for banks, investors, and insurance companies that rely on their estimates and their knowledge in the business of “art banking.”
Always forging ahead and never looking back, Elke and �omas set tomorrow’s trends with their collections of timeless jewellery. Sold under the brand, Elke Berr Creations, it represents the jewellery side of Berr & Part-ners SA. Its beautiful and original designs have attracted a wide following of clients who also request custom-made and unique pieces with special gemstones.
Among the exquisite collections made by Elke Berr Creations are Aqua, Bubble, African Flame, Iris, and Icy. For her latest creations, Elke has travelled to Myanmar—previously known as Burma—to source even more beautiful and rare gems for her very special pieces.
Mogok’s Majestic Treasures Myanmar often brings to mind dreamy
landscapes, graceful pagodas, and tireless �shermen. Beyond the touristic clichés, however, the nation is a wonderful source of precious gemstones such as jade, sapphires, rubies, and even pearls. It is in this ancestral and rich setting that Elke Berr’s new adven-ture takes place.
One of Burma’s most famous mining areas is Mogok, not widely open to visitors. Among the lucky few to be granted access to this mythical mine is Elke Berr. Inspired by the this region and its treasures, the designer chose Mogok as the name of her new collection.
Shimmering, dazzling, elegant, unique, and one-of-a-kind pieces—Bagan, Dharma, Himalaya, and Lotus—mix vibrant natural gemstones, such as a royal-blue sapphire or a hot pink spinel, with diamonds. All mounted in original and stylish gold settings, these lovely pieces will delight the world’s most discerning and sophisticated women while o�ering them a timeless investment.
Much more than mere jewellery, each ring evokes Elke’s incredible experiences and sto-ries of her travels to Mogok.
�e new collections were presented at the Four Seasons’ Hotel des Bergues in Geneva in October 2014 to an enthusiastic audience during the prestigious Forex event accompa-nied by a Versace Fashion Show.
BERR & PARTNERS SA
Berr and Partners SACP 1199
1211 Genève 1+41 (0) 22 310 6110www.ELKEBERR.com.com
PROFILEBERR & PARTNERS
35
Tateossian
Mathon Paris
Syna
Ice Link
Zannetti
Penny Preville
9 CUFFLINKS AND MORE
Costis
Traditionally, jewellery for men has tended towards the conserva-tive side, with a watch, cufflinks, class ring, and wedding band. Earrings were once seen as a sign of rebellion and gold chains were reserved for the music scene, but those days are long gone. Today, more and more men are wearing jewellery of all kinds. Even the
staple cufflink has taken on more design, whimsy, and colour.
Outfit by Mr. Gentleman (photo: AFPBB News/JFWO/MBFWT)
Inori
Scott Kay
Thompson
Tomasc Donocik
Catherine Zadeh
Caï
Coge
T O P T E N T R E N D SBy
Cyn
thia
Unn
inay
ar
Elke Berr
Damiani
Robert Manse
37
38
Jochen Pohl
Anzie
H.Weiss
Zaffiro
Just Jules
10 MOONSTONE MAGIC
Michael Endlich
Sylvie Collection
Eichhorn
JJ Number 8
Bluemoonstone Creations
Anahita
Bellon
Michael John Jewelry
T O P T E N T R E N D SBy
Cyn
thia
Unn
inay
ar
Surrounded by mystique and magic, this ancient gemstone has been used for thousands of years around the world. With its
shimmering light connectng it to the moon, some wear moonstone for its supposed protective qualities; others appreciate its distinctive appearance. Classical variet-
ies are almost transparent with a bluish shimmer, while the stone also comes in cream, grey, dark
grey, green, brown, and orange hues. Today, more than ever, moonstone is a favourite
of designers, who create their own moonstone magic.
Tony Maccabi
Anzie
Zaffiro
Outfit by Hiroko Koshino (photo: AFPBB News/JFWO/MBFWT)
Jewelryshowcasing your Passion for
S A V E T H E D A T E M a y 2 9 – J u n e 1 , 2 0 1 5
L A S V E g A S , N VM A N D A L A y B A y R E S o R T & C A S i N o
j C k o N L i N E . C o M / L A S V E g A S
stay connected
FFrench jewellery, watches and components manufacturers as well as gemstone and pearl dealers will be present at the
Baselworld show from 19th to 26th of March 2015. Nearly 30 companies, representing more than 40 brands,
will welcome you on their booth.
FRANCEAT BASELWORLD 2015
FRENCH EXHIBITORS AT BASELWORLD 2015
WWW.EMOTIONFRANCE.COM
BEFORE THE SHOW AND THROUGHOUT THE YEAR, THE LATEST NEWS ABOUT FRENCH MANUFACTURERS ARE AVAILABLE ON
FFFHALL 1
KORLOFF - 1.1 A63MESSIKA DESIGN - 1.1 B05MICHEL HERBELIN - 1.1 A59PIERRE LANNIER - 1.2 A27SAINT-HONORÉ - 1.1 E21
SMB - 1.2 A09
HALL 3ALAIN BOITE - 3.1 D25GARAUDE - 3.1 A09
MARC PRINC - 3.1 A07MARCEL PONCET - 3.1 E23
PIAT - 3.1 D01
HALL 4.UROBUR - 4.U D41VERLUX - 4.U B23
PALACEPÉQUIGNET - OF.5A
HALL 2BERTHET - 2.2 F38COBRA - 2.0 B63
DODANE 1857 - 2.2 F40FOB - 2.2 F31
GAY FRÈRES - 2.1 L70 GROUPE GL - 2.1 L02
ISABELLE LANGLOIS - 2.0 K41JOÏA - 2.1 M58
MARCEL ROBBEZ MASSON - 2.1 A61PORCHET - 2.1 L58
SCHMITTGALL - 2.1 M58WASKOLL - 2.1 K70
40
WATCHES, JEWELLERY& HIGH JEWELLERY
HORLOGERIE, BIJOUTERIE & JOAILLERIE
www.emotionfrance.com
« FRANCE »PRESS &
INFORMATIONMEDIA CENTERSTAND 1.0 V3
I N T E R V I E WD
IAM
ON
DS COLOUR YOUR WORLD WITH DIAMONDS
The historic city of Antwerp is the host of the sixth annual Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair (ADTF), to be held February 1 to 3, 2015. Open exclusively to trade professionals, this edition promises to be a glittering event and includes a special festive “Antwerp Diamond Night” on February 1. Organized by the Antwerp World Diamond Centre, the representative of the Antwerp diamond sector, the location of the ADTF could not be more perfect since 84 percent of all rough and 50 percent of all polished diamonds pass through the city. To gain insight into the types of products that visitors can see at the trade fair, CIJ TRENDS & COLOURS spoke with Mike Akiki, Managing Director of Antwerp Cut (antwerpcut.be), a Natural Coloured Diamond Manufacturer since 1989.
Interview conducted by Cynthia Unninayar
CIJTC: Your brand, Antwerp Cut, specializes in natural colour diamonds. Why colour?Mike Akiki: When I started cutting diamonds 26 years ago, I quickly realized that for white diamonds the criteria were clearly de-fined, very traditional, and “closed.” From my very first encounter with natural colour diamonds, I envisioned the infinite number of possibilities of what could be done with a coloured gem. There was space for creativity and artistic expression. When I set the gems free, I want them to mesmerize, to conquer the eyes and the soul of the one looking at them. It’s the same for jewellery. It is a ques-tion of combinations: design and colour led by imagination, talent, and fantasy.
CIJTC: What are the most common natural colour diamonds, and the most rare?MA: Yellow is the most common colour. A very small percentage of natural yellow diamonds have a superior tone and saturation. Sourced from the Zimmi mine in Sierra Leone, these natural yellows present a level of saturation that sets them apart from the ordinary gems. They are among the very few natural colour diamonds that can be cut into traditional round brilliants while keeping a superior level of colour. It took me years to collect more than 20 round brilliant-cut Zimmi diamonds to create a one-of-a-kind layout that we will showcase at the ADTF. In my opinion, the rarest natural colour diamonds are the violet, purple, and orange hues, although red diamonds are highly prized by collectors.
CIJTC: Size aside, a “white” diamond is often valued by how colourless it is. What determines the value of a coloured diamond?MA: Two main criteria determine the value of natural colour diamonds. First is the rarity, and second is related to the hue, tone, and saturation of the stone’s colour. As opposed to white diamonds where less colour is better, in natural colour diamonds, more colour is better.
CIJTC: Is there a difference in the way a natural colour diamond is cut compared to a white diamond?MA: White diamonds are mostly cut to match the specific criteria of the 4 C’s. When I cut a natural colour diamond, my main guideline is colour. It’s a very natural and organic process where I complete a stone’s journey by making the right combination between colour and cut. Each natural colour diamond has its own intricacies and needs. Patience, respect and passion are my strongest allies. Without them, I could never achieve the level of beauty, intensity, and magic that I want for my stones.
CIJTC: Who is the target buyer of natural colour diamonds?MA: Everyone! Colour impacts our world, our life, every day, all day. The taste and demand for natural colour diamonds is growing and, despite the impressive prices realized at the auctions, there is a natural colour diamond for everyone! As in fashion, natural colour diamonds are a beautiful means of self-expression. CIJTC: You have been exhibiting at the ADTF since its origin. How do you find it as a venue for showcasing your stones?MA: Today, Antwerp Cut showcases one of the most important inventories of natural colour diamonds in Antwerp. Since no two are alike, “seeing is believing,” which is why trade fairs are essential. The ADTF offers its visitors the opportunty to see 90 qualified exhibitors in one place and to buy directly from the source in a comfortable and upscale atmosphere. The city is strategically located, a train ride away from Paris and London, and is a convenient stop for buyers after the Vicenza trade fair. The ADTF organizers have shown great care over the past years to improve and evolve with the needs of both the exhibitors and the buyers, including offering three nights accommodation for first-time overseas buyers, as well as transfers from nearby airports and train stations to the show.
Editor's Note: Entry to the ADTF is strictly by-invitation-only. Invitations must be obtained directly from the organizer, either by recommendation from one of the exhibitors or by registering at antwerpdiamondfair.com. All buyers must produce verifiable documentation that they are qualified members of the gem and jewellery trade. (antwerpdiamondfair.com)
White diamonds are mostly cut to match the specific criteria of the 4 C’s. When I cut a natural colour diamond, my main guideline is colour. It’s a very natural and organic process where I complete a stone’s journey by making the right combination between colour and cut. Each natural colour diamond has its own intricacies and needs. Patience, respect and passion are my strongest allies. Without them, I could never
Antwerp. Since no two are alike, “seeing is believing,” which is why trade fairs are essential. The ADTF offers its visitors the opportunty to see 90 qualified exhibitors in one place and to buy directly from the source in a comfortable and upscale atmosphere. The city is strategically located, a train ride away from Paris and London, and is a convenient stop for buyers after the Vicenza trade fair. The ADTF organizers have shown great care over the past years to improve and evolve with the needs of both the exhibitors and the buyers, including offering three nights accommodation for first-time overseas buyers, as well as transfers from nearby airports and
42
n Powered by the Antwerp World Diamond Centre.
n Exhibitors : 85 Antwerp diamond companies.
n Visitors : jeweller retailers, designers, manufacturers. By invitation only.
n www.antwerpdiamondfair.com
T O P F A S H I O N C O L O U R SBy
Cyn
thia
Unn
inay
ar
44
Shamila
Lorenz Baumer
Madstone
Jack Kelege
Nar WongJessica Surloff
TOP TEN FASHION COLOURS FOR SPRING 2015
Rebecca Minkoff using Pantone Strawbery Ice, a light, nurturing coral tone.
Fashion sketches, colours, and quotes are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Color Report Spring 2015.
In this issue of CIJ Trends & Colours, our annual trends guide, we again present the top ten fashion colours for Spring 2015 as forecast by Pantone in its Fashion Color Report Spring 2015. Predicting a move toward the cooler and softer side of the color spectrum, the report states, “An eclectic, ethereal mix of understated brights, pale pastels and nature-like neutrals take centre stage as designers draw from daydreams of simpler times. Remembrances of retro delights, folkloric and floral art, and the magical
worlds of tropical landscapes restore a sense of well-being as we head into warmer months.”
Inbar
Nanis
Leaderline
Lisa Nik
S T R A W B E R R Y I C E
TAN
GER
INE
45
TAN
GER
INE
Tirisi
MeissenIsabelle Langlois
Garaude
Takayas
Different Gems
Mark Schneider
Constantin Wild
Paula Crevoshay
Bhansali
Costis
Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute®, adds, “Many feel compelled to be connected around the clock because we are afraid we’ll miss something important. There is a growing movement to step out and create ‘quiet zones’ to disconnect from technology and unwind, giving ourselves time to stop and be still. Color choices follow the same minimalistic, ‘en plein air’ theme, taking a cue from nature rather than being reinvented or mechanically manipulated. Soft, cool hues blend with subtle warm tones to create a soothing escape from the everyday hustle and bustle.” Showing the link between fashion
and jewellery, these colours are brought to life by beautiful examples on the following pages.
Yoana Baraschi using Pantone Tangerine, an energizing, non-jarring take on orange that adds a bold pop of color for spring.
Philip Zahm
T O P F A S H I O N C O L O U R SBy
Cyn
thia
Unn
inay
ar
46
Kavant
Daniel Espinosa
Brio Shoes
Gumha
Jane Taylor
MoraglioneJochen Pohl
Fashion sketches, colours, and quotes are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Color Report Spring 2015.
Daniel Silverstain using Pantone Marsala, a compelling and cordial hue that incorpo-rates the satisfying richness of a tastefully fulfilling meal while its grounding red-brown roots point
to a sophisticated, natural earthiness.
Stanislav Drokin
Misis
Marco Bicego
Mousson Atelier
GLA
CIE
R G
RAY
47
DilamaniAdami & Martucci
Todd Reed
CerveraBarcelona
H. Weiss
Coge
Rosato
Metalsmiths SterlingMagerit
Dennis Basso using Pantone Glacier Gray, a timeless and unobtrusive gray that adds a sense of graceful relaxation as another practical neutral.
Garden of Silver
Shawish
Eichhorn
T O P F A S H I O N C O L O U R SBy
Cyn
thia
Unn
inay
arT O P F A S H I O N C O L O U R S
48
Mousson Atelier
Caroline C
Sanalitro
Shawn Ames
Thistle & Bee
Le Vian
Barbara Tfank, using Pantone Scuba Blue, a colour that restores our sense of carefree playfulness, while invigorating the body and mind.
Fashion sketches, colours, and quotes are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Color Report Spring 2015.
Shawn Ames
Yael Designs
Bellari
Lorenz Baumer
Lika BeharNouvelle Bague
Clara Williams
GianaMayra
S C U B A B L U E
CLA
SSIC
BLU
EC
LASS
IC B
LUE
49
Jewellery Theatre
Alice K
Vianna Brasil
Crivelli
Buddha Mama
Bellon
Casato
Bavna
Trina Turk using Pantone Classic Blue, a strong and reliable anchor and, with its waterborne qualities, is perceived as thoughtful and introspective.
Mokoso Atelier
Color Story
Omi Prive
T O P F A S H I O N C O L O U R SBy
Cyn
thia
Unn
inay
arT O P F A S H I O N C O L O U R S
By C
ynth
ia U
nnin
ayar
Dada Arrigoni
Commelin
Masriera
Pamela Huizenga
Carla Amorim
Katie Decker
Isabelle Langlois
Sutra
Christian Siriano, using Pantone Lucite Green, a soft, serene green offers a fresh sense of clarity.
Fashion sketches, colours, and quotes are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Color Report Spring 2015.
Omi Prive
E&V Jewellery
Vieri
Baggins
Bella Campbell
50
L U C I T E G R E E N
CU
STA
RD
51
Luca Carati
Leyla Abdolahi
Anahita
Mattiolli
A&Furst
Jacqueline Diani
Brumani
MCL
Marcia Budet
Nanette Lepore using Pantone Custard, which serves as an all-encompassing yellow for the spring palette.
Brumani
Jacqueline Diani
T O P F A S H I O N C O L O U R SBy
Cyn
thia
Unn
inay
arT O P F A S H I O N C O L O U R S
By C
ynth
ia U
nnin
ayar
52
Dust Kreations
Cornelia Goldsmith
Danhov
Denny Wong
J Jewels
Suzy Landa
Elke Berr
JJ Number 8
Fashion sketches, colours, and quotes are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Color Report Spring 2015.
Jochen Pohl
Pamella Roland using Pantone Aquamarine, an airy, ethereal, blue with a cool, dreamy feel that mixes well with the other blues and greens in the Top Ten.
Mathon Paris
Victor Veylan
MazzaMazza
Anthony Lent
Yael Sonia
A Q U A M A R I N E
TOA
STED
ALM
ON
D
A Q U A M A R I N E
Carberonia
Le Vian
Bapalal Keshavlal
Stephen Venezia
Lydia Courteille
Andrea Li
Elizabeth Garvin
Anzie
Amali
Jay Godfrey using Pantone Toasted Almond, a sun-tanned neutral that offers timeless, comforting warmth.
Pedro Siquiera
Elizabeth Garvin
Bapalal Keshavlal
53
www.JewelleryNetAsia.com
UBM Asia LtdTel: (852) 2585 6179/ 2516 1677Fax: (852) 3749 7319Email: [email protected]
SEPTEMBERHong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair16 - 20 September 2015AsiaWorld-Expo • Hong KongDiamonds, Gemstones, Pearls, Equipment and Packaging
18 - 22 September 2015Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition CentreFine Finished Jewellery
The
WORLDNUMBERFine Jewellery Event
y & Gem Fair
Diamonds, Gemstones, Pearls, Equipment and Packaging
D’SR ONE
Fine Jewellery Event
Trends in GemsTones and TreaTmenTs
CIJTC: As a gem expert yourself, and as Director of the GIT, what changes have you seen in the types of gemstones used in jewellery over the last few years?Dr. Pornsawat Wathanakul: We have seen a shift in the nature of gems being used in jewellery. The most notable is the move towards what we might call a “natural” approach to gemstones. This started with the appearance of the so-called “sliced diamonds” that came to market several years ago. Lesser quality diamonds were cut into slices that clearly showed their inclusions and other “defects.” Jewellery designers were very creative in turning these “gem lemons” into delightful and delicious lemonade by actually highlighting the inclusions as something distinc-tive and individual to the stone. Surrounded by other gems or diamonds, these diamond slices became quite popular and appreciated in the world of fine jewellery.
Following the diamond slices, we now see more gem dealers slicing emeralds, sapphires, and other stones. These examples show the stones in their more “natural” state, you might say. Other gems moving into the world of fine jewellery are geodes, jasper, agates including dendritic agates, fossilized coral, various quartzes, and even “precious” stones in matrix set in creative designs. But, the precious and rare gems still remain highly prized by jewellers and consumers.
Over the last few years, we have seen increasing interest from China, traditionally a jade mar-ket, for coloured stones, but especially Pigeon's Blood rubies and Royal Blue sapphires.
CIJTC: What gems come mostly to GIT for analysis and certification? PW: As a national institution for gem testing, we serve the entire supply chain for the gem and jewellery sector. We test all kinds of gemstones, whether rough, faceted, or mounted, as well as pearls. The majority, however, are from the corundum family, namely ruby and sapphire. GIT also tests precious metal alloys for their content and for Hallmarking purpos-es.
CIJTC: In touring your facilities, the lab seems to be quite cutting-edge, with rooms full of advanced testing equipment…PW: The GIT was established in 1998, and is one of the world’s seven leading laboratories that are members of the Laboratory Manual Harmonization Committee (LMHC). We have advanced equipment that includes a variety of specialized instruments, spectrometers, and X-ray units that are used to distinguish between natural and synthetic gems, to grade diamonds and pearls, distinguish natural from cultured pearls, determine the geographi-cal origin of gemstones, and detect treatments in coloured stones, diamonds, and pearls. GIT has also researched the master sets of Pigeon's Blood ruby, Royal Blue sapphire, and Cornflower Blue sapphire. The institute also conducts training in the gems and jewellery sector as well as related activities.
[Editor’s note: The other six members of LMHC are CGL (Japan), CISGEM (Italy), DSEF (Germany), GIA (USA), Gübelin Gem Lab Ltd. (Switzerland), and the SSEF (Switzerland).]
CIJTC: What is the most common type of gemstone “enhancement” and how can it be detected? PW: Hundreds of years ago, people discovered that they could change a gem’s clarity and colour by heating it. Today, the vast majority of gemstones are heated. The most common stone to un-dergo heat-treatment is amethyst. Pale purple amethyst can be converted to yellow-orange citrine by heating. Other stones that are heat-treated to improve quality include ruby, sapphire, mor-ganite, kunzite, zircon, and tourmaline. After being subjected to
I N T E R V I E WG
EMST
ON
ES
Prized for their unique character and intrinsic beauty, gemstones are a major part of today’s fine jewellery. They come in all types, sizes, shapes, and colours. And, sometimes to enhance their beauty, they are subjected to various types of treatments. To learn more about the ever-changing landscape of trends in gemstones and their enhancements, as well as other issues facing the industry, we visited the very modern and prestigious Gem and Jewelry Institute of Thailand (GIT, a public organization) during a recent trip to Bangkok. Here, we caught up with the very gracious and
very busy Dr. Pornsawat Wathanakul, Director of the GIT.
Interview conducted by Cynthia Unninayar
Examples of unheated rubies (left) and after heat treatment (right).
GIT has an impressive array of advanced equipment in its gem testing section.
Dr. Pornsawat Wathanakul
56
heat, tanzanite, for example, turns to a lovely purplish-blue, while aquamarine intensifies its blue hue. Sapphires are heated to intensify or lighten their colour and improve uniformity. For ruby and sapphire in particular, special heating techniques have been developed through experimentation to best suit the particular type of stone. Today, out of 1,000 sapphires, less than one is unheat-ed, which makes the untreated gems rare and very valuable. The most important technique used to tell if a stone has been heated is by microscopic observation of its inclusion features, which are changed as a result of the heat.
CIJTC: Can you elaborate on beryllium diffusion in sapphires?PW: In beryllium diffusion, sapphires are heated to high temperatures in the presence of the light element beryllium (Be), which penetrates deep into the stone and helps modify the appearance by making the colour more uniform and, in the case of dark blue sapphires, by mak-ing them lighter. This treatment is also used to introduce yellow colour into natural white sapphires by producing colour centres together with iron. This yellow has also been introduced into pink sapphires, which then take on the lovely pink-orange shades of Padparadscha. Once considered controversial, Be-diffusion is now generally accepted be-cause of the beauty it produces in the gems and their colour stability.
This treatment can be detected by analyzing the Be content in the gemstone using advanced techniques such as Laser Induced Break-down Spectrocopy and Laser Ablation Inductively Coupled Plasma Mass Spectrometry. Because the stone undergoes high temperatures for a long period, its internal features will also be significantly dam-aged, providing additional confirmation of the Be-treatment.
CIJTC: We hear a lot about lead-glass filled rubies. Is there a way consumers can tell if the stones in their jewellery have been "enhanced" in this manner?PW: Glass-filled rubies have been around for decades and are now widely used for low-end jewelry products. Basically, glass mixed with lead or bismuth is filled in cavities or fissures in a ruby to disguise the imperfections and improve colour and clarity. The problem with this treatment is that the glass filler is not durable and as it deteriorates, the appearance of the stone can change. It is important that the customer be informed about this treatment and how to care for the stones.
The consumer can often distinguish this treated stone with a 10x loupe. Commonly, the stone will display a very clear purplish, bluish, or pinkish flash effect while moving it. And, many flattened and trapped gas bubbles are also usually seen. The extent of the treatment varies depending on the nature of the original material. If readers are interested in this topic, they can find more information on the LMHC information sheet number 3, on the website, LMHC-gemmology.org.
CIJTC: Do you find gems that are purportedly authentic, but turn out to be man-made synthetic stones?PW: Rarely, but yes. Some months ago, a client brought in two beautiful rubies that had been certified natural by another lab, but the owner still had a doubt. Our experts analyzed the rubies and found them to be, in fact, synthetic. There are also occasions when two labs will disagree on an analysis of a gemstone, and the GIT is called in to provide a third opinion.
CIJTC: What are some of the other issues facing the gem industry?PW: There are the issues of synthetic diamonds being passed off as natural, and increasingly we are seeing synthetic corundum being sold as natural ruby. In some cases, the synthetic corundum has even been fracture-filled with lead glass. This may sound ridiculous at first. Who would want to go to the trouble of fracture-filling a man-made stone? But, it is a way to make people think the synthetic is a lower-quality natural stone, which is comparatively still more valuable.
Unfortunately, as gemstone prices rise, there will be people who want to cheat. It is important for customers to understand what they are buying and to purchase from reputable dealers. And, it is important for dealers to disclose any treatments their stones have been subjected to.
As I mentioned earlier, most gems are enhanced. This is not a bad thing as these stones provide less expensive alternatives to consumers as well as colours that don’t exist in nature. The key word is disclosure and that is good for the entire industry.
As part of its mandate, GIT tests not only gems and pearls, but also precious metals.
Faceted sapphires that have been beryllium-diffused to improve colour and clarity.
Most gemstones are treated in one form or another. Of 1,000 sapphires on the market, less than 1 are unheated. Shown here is an example of a rare unheated sapphire.
57
CIJTC: Let’s start with the basics. What is Bitcoin?Jacques Voorhees: Bitcoin is a virtual currency with two aspects: a payment processing system such as PayPal, and units of measurement that are sent over that system. Bitcoin with a capital "B" refers to the payment system. A small "b" refers to the unit of measurement, or the currency.
CIJTC: How did it get started and who owns it?JV: Its origins are a mystery. In 2008, programmers operating under the alias Satoshi Nakamoto published a paper describing digital currency and, in 2009, launched software that created the first Bitcoin network and bitcoin currency. It's an open source protocol, like email or the Web's HTTP. So, no one "owns" the Bitcoin system, any more than anyone owns the email system. Anyone who conforms to the rules can use it; just as anyone can use the Web. There is no company called "Bitcoin." And that’s part of its strength. Companies can fail, and just as the Internet itself kept growing despite the many dot-com failures in the late 1990s, companies in the Bitcoin space can and do fail, yet Bitcoin usage keeps growing.
CIJTC: Are bitcoins backed by anything, and what exactly can they do?JV: Think of it this way. What is a violin, a truck, or a hammer "backed by?" Nothing, because those things have intrinsic value. You need backing only if there is no intrinsic value. Bitcoins have intrinsic value, like a truck, because they can do something useful. They can move wealth across the Bitcoin payment processing system. A truck has value only because roads exist. A bitcoin has value because the Bitcoin payment system exists. And that system is the most efficient, secure, tamper-proof, instantaneous, and cost-free method of moving wealth (making payments) ever developed in human history. It is the superhighway of payments, but to use it, you need bitcoins. And because there are only a limited number of bitcoins to use on this network, the coins themselves have value.
CIJTC: How does a bitcoin transaction work and are these transactions secure?JV: Bitcoins are stored in electronic "wallets," which are either online or stored on your computer or phone. To make a payment, you open the wallet and tell it to transfer a certain number of bitcoins to someone's "Bitcoin address." A Bitcoin address is like an email address, and any bitcoins sent to it will arrive to the recipient instantly anywhere in the world—just like email. In terms of security, no bitcoin transfer has ever been hacked, intercepted, or blocked. That said, it is important for users to keep their wallet file safe. Just as someone could steal your physical wallet if you left it on the street, so, too, could they steal your Bitcoin wallet if you did not protect it. So, while the payment network itself has so far been extremely secure, usage of it demands some level of user responsibility.
CIJTC: What are bitcoins actually worth?JV: Bitcoin value is set in an open market, as is diamond pricing. Unlike diamonds, though, bitcoins are so new that the market does not know what they are really worth. The price fluctuations—which have been huge—are a symptom of the market trying to determine their value. Right at this moment, one bitcoin is worth US$414. But they've been valued at over a thousand dollars each, and in the beginning, a bitcoin was worth less than a dollar each. Obviously, speculating in bitcoin is not for the faint-hearted.
CIJTC: Wouldn’t this price volatility be a problem for using bitcoins in commerce?JV: No, because vendors who use the Bitcoin system don't care about the value of an individual bitcoin. If you accept American Express in your store, do you care what the current share price of Amex stock is? No, because you are receiving dollars from the card, not Amex stock. Bitcoin is the same. Most vendors use the system to receive dollars. When a payment is made, the bitcoins are con-verted to dollars immediately by the payment processor. This means that if merchants sell an item for $5,000, they receive precisely $5,000 into their account, even though the payment was made in bitcoin. And, this is true, irrespective of any fluctuations in the bitcoin price during any part of the transaction.
CIJTC: If merchants have no volatility risk in accepting Bitcoin, since they receive their asking price in dollars as in your example, what is the price fluctuation risk for the payment processor and especially for the buyer who owns the bitcoin and is thus even more susceptible to changes in its price relative to the dollar or any other currency?JV: The payment processors absorb the risk, but it’s slight for two reasons. First, they are handling large numbers of transactions and they may just as likely lose a few dollars on one as gain on another. It evens out, and is part of their cost of doing business. Secondly, their exposure time is measured in minutes, if not seconds, for each transaction, so it's a fairly trivial risk. In any case, this is their business and they know what they’re doing. As for the bitcoin owner, who pays in bitcoins, the situation does have risk, but risk exists in owning any cur-
I N T E R V I E WB
ITC
OIN
Credit card fees, charge-backs, and especially fraud are concerns for any business. A rather new "cyber-currency" called Bitcoin has garnered a lot of attention recently, both positive and negative. Could
it be a viable solution to these concerns? To learn more about this new virtual money, CIJ TRENDS & COLOURS spoke with Jacques Voorhees, innovator and tech leader in the jewellery industry, founder of
Polygon, and currently CEO of Verichannel. Interview conducted by Cynthia Unninayar
THE RISE OF BITCOIN
Jacques Voorhees, CEO of Verichannel
58
rency. The U.S. dollar has lost 97 percent of its value since the creation of the Federal Reserve, for example. There are hyper swings in many new or small-capitalization currencies in the world today. This is why most people will keep only a small amount of their assets in that form at any given time, used for making bitcoin payments. You can trans-fer in and out of bitcoin, instantly, at any time, online. The people who use bitcoin are those who appreciate its advantages and believe in it. And, as the bitcoin ecosystem expands, volatility will settle down. In the meantime, it is not the vendor's problem, and can be ignored.
CIJTC: How do I buy bitcoin and how do I store it?JV: The same sites that provide the sending/receiving functions also are used for exchanging normal currencies into bitcoin, and vice versa, and for maintaining "wallets" for storing your bitcoins. The best way to obtain them depends on where you live. In the USA, the two best services are Circle.com and CoinBase.com. In Europe, I would cite Safello.com.
CIJTC: As a buyer, how do you pay for something in Bitcoin?JV: When you own bitcoin, you can use it to buy goods and services by going to the vendor's website and using their check-out system, and selecting Bitcoin rather than a credit card or PayPal. It is just as easy. There are online applications that let you do the same thing in a physical store. Since you don't need to provide personal credit card details, there is zero risk of identity theft, which has been such a problem with normal e-commerce using credit cards.
CIJTC: Who accepts Bitcoin, and what are its advantages for the jewellery industry?JV: The list is growing daily. Over 50,000 merchants have signed up with BitPay alone [one of the payment processors]. Names include Virgin Galactic, Dish Network, Wordpress, Expedia, and TigerDirect. In the jewellery sector, Tivol, Reed’s, and Overstock.com are among a growing number to accept Bitcoin. It has several advantages. It's an alternative to credit cards; processing fees are far less; the value is received instantly; it is immune to fraud; there are no charge-backs; and you can receive payments from anywhere in the world. There is no such thing as a "high risk" territory. A Bitcoin payment from Nigeria is just as secure as a Bitcoin payment from New York.
CIJTC: Apple has launched ApplyPay as a convenient payment alternative. How does Bitcoin compare to this system?JV: First of all, ApplePay is merely a payment interface, a layering of iPhone technology on existing currency and payment systems. It is a marginal improvement that does make your credit cards and bank accounts easier to use. You might call it Apple's answer to PayPal, which also requires credit cards and bank accounts. Bitcoin, by contrast, basically changes how money, payments, and trust work around the world. Secondly, ApplePay only works on Apple smart-phones, which are held by a very small percentage of the glob-al population. Bitcoin works on any computer, smart phone, and even non-smart phones. Thirdly, the two are not mutually exclusive. ApplePay can potentially cover all types of payments, including Bitcoin. It could very well be the case that, in five years, most people who pay with Bitcoin, do so using their ApplePay system.
CIJTC: Are you and Verichannel involved with Bitcoin?JV: Yes, among other things, we offer services to help jewelers get on the Bitcoin bandwagon. We feel it is one of the most important cost-reduction and anti-fraud technologies ever to hit the industry.
Jacques Voorhees can be reached at [email protected] Voorhees can be reached at [email protected].
12 rue de la Paix - 75002 Pariswww.isabellelanglois.com
VICENZAORO - Winter, Fall - Hall 7, French Pavilion
JCK TUCSON Booth L5 HKG March Booth 1CON-012
BASELWORLD Hall 2 JCK LUXURY (Sonette Booth)
BIJORHCA September HKG September - French Pavilion
59
Forget Public relations – the real game is social relations
CIJTC: Let’s start with the basics. What is a brand? Dan Scott: Simply stated, a brand is a promise. You can count on one hand how many true brands there are in the jewelry industry. That’s sad when compared to fashion or fragrance, but it’s not a lost cause. We too often call something a “brand” because it has a name, logo, slogan, or tagline. To give birth to a baby brand, however, one must carefully nurture a jewelry design or collection. Then, through the proper chan-nels, you stand by your brand promise and deliver on it each and every day to the right audience.
CIJTC: What is social media and how can it help build a brand?DS: Social media is a 24/7 cocktail party with peer-to-peer conversations that take place via text, images, videos, or audio, or any combination of these. Popular channels of communication include Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest, Twitter, YouTube, and LinkedIn. The party never stops and the guest list is endless. You may invite your brand to the party, but don’t think for a moment that, because a social platform bears your brand name, you are in control. The consumer has the ultimate say. Before you type, pin, post, or tweet, visit your toughest competition and just observe. Remember, once you hit enter, it’s online forever. A strong brand or a promise never dies and there is magic in instantaneous action and reaction, but what could spread like wildfire to promote and reinvigorate your brand can also shoot to kill with as little as one bad post.
CIJTC: In the ever-evolving world of social media, what’s the difference between a “like,” a “fan,” and “shares?” DS: Remember the days when people would jump for joy when their website had a million hits? We have since learned that a “hit” is somewhat meaningless. One does not know who “hit” the page. “Fans” or “likes” are, in a way, similar. You don’t know who they are, where they came from, or what, exactly, they are “liking.” Having said that, however, there is great power in numbers for the sheer attention of it all. Human nature proves that people are drawn to crowds, and thousands of Facebook fans make your brand or product look successful.
“Shares” are the digital version of word of mouth. When people share, it’s a peer-to-peer endorsement, but shares can also be negative. If people have a bad experience, they tell the world. When you see those—and you may well get them—do not hit delete or block them (unless it is profane and modern filters take care of most of those). Resist the temptation to be defensive. Rather, communicate with the person, just as any great customer service person would do. The difference here is that the world is watching, and it can turn against you in a moment. Try and right the wrong, even if you are right. People who express discontent are still people who care. But, if the conversation stays negative, try and take it offline. There are ways to do this, and they are specific to each circumstance, which we can talk about offline.
We should also mention “unique visitors” (UVs). They tell us that one specific visitor, on one day, from one IP address came from a completely traceable online location. This makes for a killer marketing dashboard. You can see the visitation time, duration, action taken, and so much more. UVs can produce email addresses, home addresses, and phone numbers—and other opt-in information. This is useful once it’s put into action.
CIJTC: Let’s take a concrete example. Can a brand convert traffic to sales, using, for example, Facebook?DS: No, not really. Nothing that works in the physical world works in cyberspace, not promotion nor incentives nor discounts. With social media, you engage your audience. You speak around your brand and not to it or about it. An example can be seen on the Hershey Kiss Facebook page, which now has nearly 200,000 fans, with over 5,000 active interactions every few hours. One of the most popular posts—it reached 15,000 people in 15 minutes—was an adorable baby sleeping in a bed of Hershey Kiss chocolates. No jewelry. Thousands of people shared the post and the result sold more Kiss pendants than we had ever experienced. But, when we placed a hero shot with the popular kisses, we flat-lined. The baby image spoke around the product and touched a cord with the audience, without ever mentioning the product itself.
I N T E R V I E WSO
CIA
L M
EDIA
Dan Scott, brand architect and marketing consultant.
Whether you are a retailer, designer, or even a blogger, you have a brand. And, if you want to advance that brand, you cannot afford to ignore social media. To learn more about this ever-evolving phenomenon, CIJ TRENDS & COLOURS caught up with the very busy master marketer or, as he is often called “Brand Architect,” Dan Scott. Dan’s mar-keting experience includes positions with QVC, Chanel, and Verisign, followed by a decade as Chief Marketing Officer at Scott Kay. Two years ago, he became CMO of World Trade Jewelers, where he is responsible for the global growth of billion-dollar iconic brands translated into jewelry, such as Hershey Kiss pendants, the brand’s top rated licensed product, and Hasbro’s Scrabble Jewelry, now Macy’s #1 selling initial pendant. Ranked #15 out of 5,000 CMOs in the USA and elected for the third year to the CMO North American Advisory Board, Dan utilizes social media to create intense brand awareness, build community, and to sell, but not in the way you may think.
Interview conducted by Cynthia Unninayar
60
CIJTC: What does the term “psychographics” mean and why is it so important?DS: Let me start by saying that it is extremely important to know your customer. Psychograpics is a marketing term used to identify people’s personalities, aspirations, and desires. To understand psychographics is to understand the “why” of people's purchases. It is a multi-layered evaluation of "why" someone “needs” a Rolex over a Timex. Yesterday’s marketers used only household income, age, and geography to target their customers. Today, one must get inside consumers’ minds and follow their lead. It’s their voice, their likes and dislikes that control how well a product performs. If you force-feed your brand in social media, people will be turned off. You must allow the conversation to grow organically, while carefully guiding it, and your brand will thrive. CIJTC: How does one determine which social platforms best address their target audience?DS: Studies show that Facebook is skewing 30+ with somewhat higher household income. Instagram and Twitter are more tweens, teens, and twenties. Pinterest is varied, but attracts mostly women, aged 25 to 45. Pinterest is also the best platform for click through to buy. Facebook is not—F-commerce tanked—and Instagram won’t allow you to click to buy, at least not yet. Once you identify your brand’s psychographics, you are then half way to finding the right platform to get your message out.
CIJTC: You have had tremendous success with “influencers” in social marketing, so how do you leverage these people to help sell your products or services? DS: Today’s influencers, or informal “brand ambassadors,” you might say, are the fashionistas and trendsetters you never hear of, but who have millions of active followers. They are people such as Michelle Phan, a hair-and-makeup guru who, with more than seven million subscribers and one billion page views, is a certified YouTube superstar. You can cultivate your own influencer. They are out there. You just need to find them and make them a star for your brand promise.
For more on branding and marketing in today's digital environment, Dan Scott can be reached at [email protected]
In Social Media, it is necessary to engage your audience and speak around your brand, not about it. A good example of this strategy is the Hershey's Kiss jewellery campaign that featured a baby on a bed of chocolate kisses, but not a single piece of jewellery. The image reached 15,000 people in 15 minutes and resulted in a high volume of jewellery sales.
61
By C
ynth
ia U
nnin
ayar
T R E N D S & C O L O U R SBy
Cyn
thia
Unn
inay
arBy
Cyn
thia
Unn
inay
ar
IF IT AIN’T BAROQUE
DON’T FIX IT
In the past, pearls that were
not perfect, round, or symmetrical were considered greatly inferior to their
perfectly formed cousins. Today, designers are seeing their irregularities as opportunities to create beautiful and original pieces, giving
these living gems a well-deserved place in the world of fine jewellery.
Yvel
Pearl Paradise
Liverino
Buccellati
Imperial
Yoko London Mario
Buzzanca
Sea Hunt
Jane A. Gordon
62
Utopia
Caroline C
Jewelmer
Emiko Pearls
Tara
Baggins
Mimi
Kavant
Mastoloni
Jye Luxury Collection
63
By C
ynth
ia U
nnin
ayar
T R E N D S & C O L O U R S
From rose cuts to brilliants and everything in between, diamonds come in all shapes and
sizes, and, of course, colours. Fancy diamonds not only bring record prices
at auction, but are dazzling in a wide variety of colourful
creations.
DAZZLING DIAMONDS
Chimento
Ashi Diamonds
Jack Kelege
Martin Flyer
Laurence BruyninckxH.J. Namdar
Nar Wong
Entice/KGK
CarlaAmorim
Outfit by Ulises Merida (photo: Mecedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid)
64
Crivelli Bapalal Keshavlal
Memoire
Suna
Garrard
Monelle Designs
ZydoNar Wong
Jye Luxury Collection
ZivaTasha R
Outfit by Venexiana (photo: Mecedes Benz Fashion Week NYC)
65
By C
ynth
ia U
nnin
ayar
T R E N D S & C O L O U R SBy
Cyn
thia
Unn
inay
arT R E N D S & C O L O U R ST R E N D S & C O L O U R S
Outfit by Juana Martin (photo: Mecedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid)
Ivanka Trump
VivaanYoko London
Rina Limor
Luca Carati
Syvlie Cox Shoes
Andreoli
O P P O S I T E SATTRACT
Black and white come together to create
strong designs for 2015. Opposites on
the tonal spectrum, one represents the
absence of all colour, while the other
is the presence of all colour. Black and
white diamonds, sapphires, quartz,
pearls, onyx, agate, and jade, are
among the most popular gemstones
evoking opposites that attract.
Dada Arrigoni
66
Re’Volve
Nouvelle Bague
Outfit by Vivienne Hu(photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC)
De Grisogono
Brio Shoes
Marcia Budet
Bapalal Keshavlal
A T T R A C T
OPPOSITESVivaan
Marcia Budet
Dilamani
67
By C
ynth
ia U
nnin
ayar
T R E N D S & C O L O U R S
68
Tous
Outfit by Atsushi Nakashima (photo: AFPBB News/JFWO/MBFWT)
R A D I A N T R A I N B O W S
While single colors
in jewellery design are very popular, many creators are mixing things up, offering
a wide variety of colour combina-tions, with both contrasting and
complementary hues. Made with gemstones, metals, enamel, and pearls, these pieces are
as lovely and luxurious as Nature’s radiant
rainbows.
Evocateur
Pamela Huizenga
Palmiero
Aaron Henry
Evocateur
Mousson Atelier
Cornelia Goldsmith
Jacob & Co.
Philip Zahm
Stephen Webster
69
Effy
Versace
Vianna Brasil
Anahita
Outfit by Agatha Ruiz de la Prada (photo: Mecedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid)
Roberto Bravo
Yael Designs
Faberge
Thistle & BeeNanis
By CYNTHIA UNNINAYAR
eautiful in
Or rganized by the Thai Gem & Jewelry Traders Association
(TGJTA) under the theme “The Power of Free Trade, Connect the World with Free Tax,” the 54th edition of the five-day Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair (BGJF) offered definite tax ad-vantages for buyers and exhibitors. “Apart from other services and facilities that en-abled our visitors to enjoy the easiest business transactions possible, the TGJTA in collabora-tion with the Thai government unlocked the tax barrier, setting the BGJF as a duty-free zone for gems and jewellery production,” explained Somchai Phornchindarak, Presi-dent of TGJTA and the Gems, Jewelry, and Precious Metal Confederation of Thailand.
COMPETITIVE ADVANTAGESThrough the efforts of the TGJTA, the tax
advantages of doing business in Thailand are clearly evident. In addition, the nation offers a number of other competitive advantages. First, it is the world’s largest exporter and manufacturer of silver jewellery, from simple pieces to highly sophisticated designer prod-ucts. Secondly, Thailand is a global hub for coloured gemstones, importing rough from around the world and re-exporting the fac-etted gems to the four corners of the planet. Thirdly, the nation’s competitive labour force and quality craftsmanship attract brands from around the world, which source and manufacture their goods in the country, from simple silver pieces to sophisticated high-end gemstone-studded gold suites.
BANGKOK
Dh
eva
n D
ara
MARKETPLACEBANGKOKB
Du
an
g K
ae
w J
ew
elry
70
POLICIES OF ZERO VAT FOR GEMSTONES AND DUTY-FREE PRIVILEGES FOR
JEWELLERY, AS WELL AS A NUMBER OF BUSINESS MATCHING AND ONLINE
SOURCING PROGRAMS, HELPED ATTRACT A RECORD-BREAKING NUMBER OF
VISITORS WHO CAME TO SEE THE BEAUTIFUL JEWELLERY AND GEMS ON DISPLAY
AT THE 54TH EDITION OF THE BANGKOK GEMS & JEWELRY FAIR,
HELD SEPTEMBER 9 TO 13, 2014.
A large draw to the BGJF is the number and diversity of silver manufacturers. “Thailand is a good, interesting source of supply,” stated Arkadiusz Sypniewski of Polish company, A.S. Pracownia Zlotnicza, adding, “We always get new designs and suppliers always offer me new materials. I plan on increasing im-ports from Thailand by 25 percent this year.” Newcomer to the BGJF, Naresh Chitan, of India-based Zaveri Bros Jewellers, comment-ed, “We plan to start importing from Thailand for hand-made silver jewellery. The BGJF of-fers us the opportunity to meet many suppli-ers in one place. It is a wonderful show.”
Another major attraction is the trade in coloured gems. Simon Ghanimian, president of USA-based brand Simon G, and a fre-quent visitor to the BGJF, commented, “Thai-land is the world capital of coloured stones, and we come here to source gems for our jewellery.” Sharing this sentiment, Lisa Wong, of USA-based brand, Nar Wong, stated, “In Thailand, we get a first look at a wide selec-tion of gems before they will be offered at other fairs. This early advantage gives us the opportunity to purchase select stones before other companies.”
IMPORTANCE OF ASEAN+6Increased competiveness is also projected
for Thailand with the formation of the ASEAN Economic Community (AEC), which is com-prised of Thailand, Indonesia, Malaysia, the Philippines, and Singapore. The 54th BGJF was the venue for the third ASEAN+6 Gems & Jewelry Presidents’ Summit, which included the ASEAN nations plus six important trade partners (China, India, Japan, South Korea, Australia and New Zealand). Leaders from the regional ASEAN region met with other government officials and private sector rep-resentatives to discuss the challenges facing each country as part of a regional trading block. The parties came closer to forming a working relationship and agreed to continue the ASEAN Gems and Jewelry Presidents’ platform into the future. Among the impor-
PKL Silver
Gem Production
F&RF&R
Prima Gold/Pranda
Dermond Anandara
Mokoso Atelier
D Quality Jewelry
Goldlip
Mahallati
71
The Gemological Institute of Thailand provided lab services to buyers at the BGJF to verify
gemstone purchases.
KdeCraft
tant issues discussed were cooperation be-tween regional gems and jewellery trade fairs, raw material resources, and sharing of technology and knowledge.
“As the AEC opens in 2015, it will be a new market of 600 million people with a very high capacity for the regional gems and jewellery industry,” commented Suttipong Damrongsakul, CEO of the BGJF Organiz-ing Committee. He added that this market would pave the way for sales in Europe and the United States, and expressed confidence that, as part of the AEC, the BGJF would become a very effective link to the world.
PLOI THAI CREATION: THE SPIRIT OF ASEAN 2015Known internationally as Thailand’s coun-
try brand for jewellery design, Ploi Thai fea-tures high quality and diversified fine jewel-lery set with gemstones faceted in Thailand. For the 54th BGJF, a design contest was open to Thai designers and brands to craft jewellery under the theme “The Spirit of ASEAN 2015.” Representing the character of the ASEAN nations, the winners of this com-petition were seen in a special exhibition at the show. Other examples of outstanding Ploi Thai jewellery were also featured in a special exhibition inside the fair. u
ONSITE LAB SERVICES For buyers wishing to have prospective
gemstone purchases analyzed, the presti-gious Gem Institute of Thailand (GIT) con-ducted a temporary laboratory during the BGJF. Attracting long lines of buyers wishing to reassure themselves and verify their pur-chases, testing was completed in generally less than an hour, at very reasonable prices. The highly rated GIT, under the directorship of Dr. Pornsawat Wathanakul is a member of the Laboratory Manual Harmonization Com-mittee (LMHC), made up of the world’s sev-en leading gemmological laboratories. The next Bangkok Gems & Jewellery Fair will be held February 24 to 28, 2015, at the city’s very modern Impact Challenger Centre.
WWW.BANGKOKGEMSFAIR.COM
Dhevan Dara
72
hh By CYNTHIA UNNINAYAR
O rganized by UBM, the seven-day HKJGF closed on September 21, 2014 with record-breaking results. Some 3,695 exhibitors from 49 countries and regions,
divided between the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre (HKCEC) for finished jewellery and Asia World Expo (AWE) for diamonds, gemstones, and pearls, attracted 59,116 unique buyers from 157 countries and regions, a 12-percent increase over last year.
“Today, the September Fair is the most influential B2B jewellery trade event where the most engaged jewellers in the industry access premium quality buyers,” commented Celine Lau, director of Jewellery Fairs, UBM Asia. “It is the ultimate platform for lobbying and agenda-setting for the industry, and for discovering the products and ideas that excite the jewellery market. The 17-percent growth in visitor numbers from Asia compared to last year’s edition tells us that the region continues to be the key driver in the world’s jewellery market.”
“This edition marked the first time that the number of visitors from China (18,310) surpassed the number of Hong Kong-based visitors (17,079),” added Lau. After these two regions, most visitors, in decreasing order, came from India, USA, Taiwan, Thailand, Japan, Philippines, Korea, and Indonesia.
SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE You could find just about every type of jewellery at the HKCEC. Manufacturers, brands, and designers from around the globe showcased items ranging from very in-expensive mass-produced goods to high-end luxury products. All varieties of mate-rials could be found—resin, silver, titanium, bronze, palladium, gold, and platinum—set with everything from crystals and glass to diamonds, pearls, and gemstones.
Halls were divided by category and by regions, for ease in sourcing. The three ma-jor areas were the Hong Kong Premier Pavilion with 37 high-end local companies, the
WHERE THE WORLD MEETShhhMARKETPLACEHONG KONGh WHERE THE WORLD MEETS
ONG KONG
International Premier Pavilion, featuring 70 up-market brands from 21 countries, and the Fine Design Pavilion where 74 global brands showcased their wares. Among others were the Antique & Vin-tage Jewellery, Silver Jewellery, Acces-sories, and Fine Asian Jewellery pavilions. The largest national pavilion was that of Thailand, featuring simple silver to so-phisticated gem and gold creations.
This year, the diamond pavilion at the AWE was the world’s largest. In terms of trends, it was impossible to pinpoint any major design direction given the vast number of styles at the show. Having said that, however, there were many examples of the Top Ten Trends 2014 that we predicted in our Winter issue (see CIJintl.com).
Colour was everywhere. Jadeite con-tinued to be a favourite element in jew-ellery, although it seemed to be eclipsed somewhat by the traditional trio of ruby, sapphire, and emerald, as featured by both local and overseas companies. Tan-zanite and sky blue topaz were popular at the AWE, as was tourmaline, notably the green and pinks, although the neon-blue Paraiba varieties, from both Brazil and Af-rica, were not lacking.
Mousson Atelier
74
DESPITE POLITICAL UNREST IN THE CITY, THE SEPTEMBER 2014 EDITION OF THE HONG KONG JEWELLERY & GEM FAIR ATTRACTED A RECORD NUMBER OF EXHIBITORS AND BUYERS FROM AROUND THE WORLD, REINFORCING ITS ROLE AS A GLOBAL MEETING PLACE FOR JEWELLERY, DIAMONDS, PEARLS, AND GEMSTONES.
Okurado
Coloured diamonds attracted a lot of attention at some of the designer booths as well as loose stones at the AWE.
Honey coloured amber drew much atten-tion from Chinese buyers. Natured-inspired pieces, mostly flowers, butterflies, and birds, satisfied the demand by Chinese buyers for flora and fauna.
The decrease in the price of gold notwith-standing, lacy motifs were popular in many designs, while the edgy look, mainly skulls, continued its popularity. Knuckle rings, tas-sels of all sorts, and exotic earrings were showcased at many stands. A variety of the jewellery from around the world shown at the Hong Kong show is featured on these pages.
VISITOR COMMENTS“We come every year to the Septem-
ber fair to source high-quality gems and diamonds for our creations. The shuttle makes it easy to access the AWE, which is our main focus.” – Lisa Wong, buyer for Nar Wong (USA).
“This is my sixth visit to the September fair. The fair separates loose and finished jew-ellery, which is a brilliant idea. The mobile
app is user-friendly and helped facilitate my trip.” – Marc A. Green, vice-chairman, Lux Bond & Green (USA).
“We visit this fair regularly. Services are good and we can acquire updated market trends here. The sectors make it easy for us to locate products.” – Suvarna Kadam, director, Beauty Gem, Inc (India).
“I have visited the September Fair many times to meet my existing and potential new suppliers of diamonds and fine finished jewellery. It’s certainly an excellent plat-form to find new suppliers, market trends, and to network. The organizer’s service is great, particularly the currency exchange service.” – Simon Phillips, director, Lawrence Blunt Ltd (United Kingdom).
“The September Fair always impresses me with the broad product variety and exhibi-tors’ profiles. I was able to find new suppli-ers, meet existing partners, network, and update myself with the market trends via the insightful special events. The product sectors, informative fair website, and user-friendly mobile apps assisted me in locating products.” – Alex Jeyaraj, sourcing execu-tive, Rosy Blue (Dubai).
“To see upcoming market trends and meet serious jewellery professionals, the September Fair is an event one can’t afford
Sarah HoSawel
The Fifth Season
Ellagem
Yoko London
MVee
Constantin Wild
ExCellNar Wong
75
Masaki Shimizu
Antwerp Cut
to miss.” – Massimiliano Arostinin, director, Picador (Italy).
JNA AWARDSOrganized by JNA (Jewellery News Asia), the third annual JNA Awards, held September 16 in conjunction with the HKJGF, honoured innovators and leaders in the jewellery in-dustry in manufacturing, branding, retailing, best business practices, innovation, sustain-ability, and outstanding contributions. With strong support from its Headline Partners, Rio Tinto Diamonds and Chow Tai Fook, the JNA Awards is recognized as one of the most prestigious events in the trade.
Twenty people and companies were rec-ognized in a variety of categories. The Life-time Achievement Award went to Anoop Mehta, president of the Bharat Diamond Bourse, while Ahmed Bin Sulayem, execu-tive chairman of the Dubai Multi Commodi-ties Centre, was received the Outstanding Contribution of the Year Award for his ac-
complishments at the DMCC in the global gem and jewellery trade.
Other award winners included: Brand of the Year, Retail—Paspaley; Retailer of the Year—Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group Ltd; E-tailer of the Year—Shanghai Wisdom Jewelry Trading Co Ltd (Zbird); Industry Innovation of the Year, Manufacturing, Business—Frank Wu Design; Manufacturer of the Year, Diamond Cutting and Polishing—Kiran Gems Pvt Ltd; Sustainability Initiative of the Year—Shree Ramkrishna Exports Pvt Ltd; Outstanding Enterprise of the Year, ASEAN Countries—Jewelmer Joaillerie; Out-standing Enterprise of the Year, India—Hari Krishna Exports Pvt Ltd. For a complete list of honourees, see JNAAwards.com.
Next year’s show will be held September 16 to 20 at AWE, and September 18 to 22 at the HKCEC.
JEWELLERYNETASIA.COM
Green G
Magerit
Amrapali
AG Color
Bellon
Mario Buzzanca
76
G MARKETPLACEWARSAW
IT’S By CYNTHIA UNNINAYAR
IN WARSAW
OLDSILVER TIME
Most of Warsaw was destroyed during WWII, including its historic Old Town, which was faithfully reconstructed from an old painting. The beautiful Palace on the Island was one of the few survivors.
IN A WAY, THE HISTORY OF THE JEWELLERY
INDUSTRY IN POLAND FOLLOWS THE
HISTORY OF THE NATION ITSELF.
LIKE THE POLISH PEOPLE, IT IS AN
INDUSTRY THAT HAS RISEN FROM
DESOLATION AND REPRESSION TO BECOME A
COMPETITIVE WORLD-CLASS CENTRE FOR
DESIGN AND MANUFACTURING. THIS
TRANSFORMATION COULD CLEARLY BE SEEN AT
THE RECENT EDITION OF WARSAW’S GOLD SILVER
TIME JEWELLERY FAIR.
GThe 15th edition of the Gold Silver Time (GST) jewellery fair opened
its doors on a warm and sunny October 2nd in Warsaw, Poland. An enthusiastic crowd of visitors came to see the original products from a diverse range of Polish brands, de-signers and manufacturers.
Attracting more than 6000 visitors, the three-day GST featured more than 300 exhibitors showcasing original jewellery, silverware, and watches. Products were crafted in a variety of gemstones, amber, diamonds, enamel, crystals, and metal, including silver, gold, titanium, and steel, as well as unusual materials such as acrylic and resin.
In his opening remarks at the start of the show, Mr. Galimski, president of the show’s organizer, MCT International Fair Centre, emphasized the “very close relationships between the GST organizers and the jewel-lery community, including trade organiza-tions, education and outreach institutions, and GST’s 15-year-long contribution to pro-moting jewellery art and artistic craftsman-ship and to building a positive image of Pol-ish Design.”
After only a few minutes of walk-ing the show floor, this positive image of Polish Design was more than obvious. The product offer was extensive and origi-nal, and divided into three major design directions: Classics, Fashion, and Design.
The Classics comprised mainly gold with diamonds and gemstones, as well as sil-ver with natural or synthetic gems, while Fashion followed the current trends, draw-ing inspiration from colour, texture, nature, geometric, and cultural motifs. The Design group featured a vast range of designers who interpret jewellery in their own manner, and whose creativity and originality attract-ed a lot of interest.
AND AMBER OF COURSE Jewellery made with Baltic amber—
the Gold of the North—comprised about 30-percent of the total offer at GST. Strongly associated with Poland, amber jewellery—whether designer, original, or mass-mar-ket—enjoys true international appeal and appreciation.
“The global amber jewellery market, which is currently dominated by China, has forced Polish manufacturers to pay much greater attention to product qual-ity and visual appeal,” explains Galimski. “Because the prices of raw amber have moved it into the sector of luxury gemstones, a fashion has developed for the most beau-tiful amber stones in luxurious, and often filigree, settings. They are no longer made only with silver, but also with gold and dia-monds, and at prices reaching as much as several tens of thousands of Euros.”
Galimski continues that, in the lower-priced segments, amber cabochons and olive motifs predominate, in line with Asian customer preferences. “There is now great interest in amber by young designers, espe-cially the alumni of the Gdansk Academy of Fine Arts, who are not afraid to experi-ment. They look for unusual and surprising visual effects, and sometimes combine am-ber with synthetic or more unusual materi-als to effectively freshen up the design and image.”
SPECIAL EXHIBITIONSThis edition of GST merged the present
with the nation’s past in featuring the lat-est in Polish Design in jewellery and watches combined with a special exhibition entitled 25 for 25. Jewellery in the Time of Freedom, 1989–2014. This remarkable display re-capped the two and half decades of free-dom for Poland’s jewellery industry.
“The last 25 years have been extremely interesting for Polish jewellery,” notes Mon-ika Szpatowicz, curator of 25 for 25. “The political transformations have had a clear impact on the development of the jewel-lery market, while changes in the way of thinking have brought about new trends and new artists,” she adds.
The commemorative 25 for 25 exhibi-tion presented more than 100 pieces by 25 selected jewellery designers who have contributed the most significantly to its post-1989 development. One of these creators, Marcin Zaremski, explains that under the Soviet era, jewellers did not have formal education in the craft. As a result, a lot of jewellery was created by artists, thus con-tributing greatly to the artistic development of the Polish jewellery sector. u
Ewa Lewanowicz
ber with synthetic or more unusual materials to effectively freshen up the design and image.”
This year marks a dual celebration honouring the 15th anniversary of the GST show along with 25 years of hard-fought Polish freedom and the remarkable jewellery designers and artists that have transformed the industry over the last quarter-century.
Rafal Galimski, president, MCT International Fair Centre
Jacek Ostrowski.
Agata Calka for Amber-Ring
78
Bogumil Bytomski
Among the Special Exhibitions was the Design Gallery. An enclave for artists and designers whose creativity goes hand-in-hand with the mastery of artisanal tech-niques, it featured a wide diversity of ideas, materials and textures, providing insight into what Polish Design is all about.
A delightful Fashion Show highlighted original jewellery by several Polish brands. The pieces demonstrated that, even though Poland’s jewellery scene has devel-oped without constraints for 25 years and increasingly follows in the footsteps of glob-al trends, it still retains many of the typical characteristics that make “Made in Po-land” products recognizable and appreci-ated worldwide.
No visit to Warsaw would be complete without a trip to the Amber Collection at the prestigious Museum of the Earth of the Polish Academy of Sciences. The remark-able collection of amber and other fos-sil resins is one of the largest in the world and traces their formation at sites around the globe. The display adds a whole new meaning to amber’s illustrious beginning as tree sap right through to its use as decora-tive art.
Poland is a beautiful country, rich in history, tradition, and resolve. That alone is reason to visit this remarkable land. But a trip to GST makes it the perfect getaway for both business and pleasure. And, the show’s amazing staff bends over back-wards to ensure a fabulous experience for their guests. Next year’s Gold Silver Time will take place October 1 to 3, 2015.
ZLOTOSREBROCZAS.COM
Jolanta and Andrzej Kupniewscy
Pawel Kaczynski Arek Wolski
Marcin Zaremski
Marta Wlodarska / Amberwood Motyle (photo: Norbert Piwowarczyk)
Bogumil Bytomski
Szwed Design
Malgorzata Wasowska
79
MARKETPLACEWARSAW
i By KAREN NUCKOLS
W hy were the original show organizers considered to
be “rebels?” Prior to the show’s start in 1984, business in the region was conducted under near-secret conditions. There was little inter-action between dealers and it was difficult to imagine doing business out in the open with other firms. But, that all changed three decades ago with the creation of the first INTERGEM show.
Clearly, the show was a success because, in 2014, it celebrated its 30th anniversary. On opening day, October 3, over 1,100 buyers were treated to top gemstones, carvings, jewellery, and other products featured by 130 vendors, and by the end of the three-day event, 3,500 visitors had attended, up 500 from last year.
Although INTERGEM is a small show by in-dustry standards—intentionally—it is known around the world. It is also instrumental to
NTERGEMMARKS 30 YEARS OF UNIQUENESS
the continued success of the artisans in the Idar-Oberstein region who cherish a 500-year tradition of fine cutting, carving, and jewellery making.
During the 30th anniversary ceremony held in the foyer of the exhibition hall, Malu Dreyer, Prime Minister of the German state of Rhineland-Palatinate stated, “INTERGEM is a very special flagship for the region and for Rhineland-Palatinate as a whole. The trade fair and the industry display special characteristics that give them a unique position worldwide.” She applauded the foresight and courage of the organizers who made their vision come true 30 years ago, and urged participants to continue to work to make the fair even better. Jöchen Miller, president of the Diamond and Gemstone Bourse in Idar-Oberstein noted, “INTERGEM is a brilliant PR event for Idar-Oberstein and the industry, and has a much greater signifi-cance than many people might think.” Bruno Zimmer, Lord Mayor, observed,
“Visitors from all over the world treasure INTERGEM as an exclusive showcase win-dow.”And, indeed this showcase attracted visitors from around the world. Heike Faller from Karl Faller said, “We had visitors from the USA, Great Britain, China, Portugal, and Spain.” Konrad Henn, chairman of INTERGEM Messe GmbH, was pleased to report that more international visitors came to the show this year than last, “some from as far away as Dubai and the USA.”
Once a show only for regional exhibi-tors who belonged to the Intergem Club, INTERGEM has expanded its range to include companies from the world over. An exhibi-tor’s provenance no longer matters, but the quality of their goods does, and they must be approved. While most exhibitors were from Germany, there were a few notable ex-ceptions, such as Root of Power, owned by Japanese world champion cutter Tomo Karono, and his wife, Sachiko Sasaki. They
iiiMARKETPLACEIDAR-OBERSTEIN
INTERGEM logo in gems by Constantin Wild
80
MORE THAN 30 YEARS AGO,
26 “REBELS” PERSUADED THE
GEM DEALERS AND CARVERS FROM
AROUND IDAR-OBERSTEIN IN GERMANY
TO HOLD A TRADE SHOW WHICH, THEY
SAID, WOULD BENEFIT THEMSELVES
AND THE REGION. THEY ENVISIONED
A SHOW WHERE BUYERS COULD
COME TOGETHER TO PURCHASE
GOODS FROM A VARIETY
FIRMS, OFFERING A WIDE
RANGE OF PRODUCTS.
have been exhibiting for several years and find the show a great opportunity to show-case both faceted stones and finished jewellery. A unique pair of earrings caught our eye. One earring featured a faceted peridot while the other was an amethyst, both set with diamonds. The stones were cut by Karono and set by E. W. Schreiber, a German jeweller.
Several original “rebel” exhibitors marked the anniversary by displaying unique stones or objets d’art. Constantin Wild showcased a suite of over 30 stones matching the INTERGEM logo as a prize to a lucky show visitor.
Wild & Petsch won a “Best of Show” award for its Paraiba tourmalines set in the shape of the original show logo. Also a “Best of Show” winner, Helmut Wolf, who returned to the show after a several-year absence, dis-played a lapis lazuli bowl with a natural stone rim he carved from a 345 kg rough stone.
Even though business slowed after the first day, most vendors seemed to be
pleased with the results of the show. Heike Faller commented, “We recorded a higher demand for fine individual stones.” And, stated Nicole Ripp from Groh + Ripp, “For us, the show was very profitable. The in-terest in natural-coloured, high-quality, exceptional stones is higher than ever.”
In the end, the success of INTERGEM centres on the service the dealers pro-vide. Achim Grimm of Hermann Grimm KG explained, “It’s all about building rela-tionships. Seeing customers face to face is best. Anticipating what the customer will want and providing quality stones at good prices is all part of what we do.” Nicole Grimm, third-generation family mem-ber at Groh + Ripp, agreed, “Most important are trust and relationships both between our customers and us and between our suppliers and us. Staff members of our suppliers are also third generation or more so we have known each other for a long time. That is important when establishing transparency.”
Petra Schwinn
Daniela Becker
Helmut Wolf
Tomo Karono / E.W. Schreiber JewellersGroh + Ripp
Jutta Munsteiner
INTERGEM 2015 - October 2 to 5
INTERGEM.DE
Stanislav Drokin
81
A.Link 64A&Furst 34, 51Aaron Basha 21Aaron Henry 68Abellán 34Adami & Martucci 47AG Color 27, 76AGTA 24Alessio Boschi 21, 34Alice K 49 Alisa 33 Alishan 21Amali 29, 53Amber-Ring/Agata Calka 78Amberwood/Marta Wlodarska 79Amrapali 76Anahita 33, 38, 51, 69Andrea Candela 33Andrea Li 53Andreoli 66Andrew Hamilton Crawford 22Angelique de Paris 22, 26Anita Sondore 25Anthony Lent 30, 52Antwerp Cut 42, 76Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair 42, 43Anzie 38, 53Arek Wolski 79Ashi Diamonds 64Ayaka Nishi 33Baggins 7, 50, 63Bangkok Gems & Jewelry 73Bapalal Keshavlal 53, 65, 67BaselWorld 18, 19Bavna 49 Bayco 34Bella Campbell 50Bellarri 48Bellon 38, 49, 76Bergio 22Berr & Partners 35Bhansali 45Bizzotto Gioielli 8, 9, 21BK Jewellery 11Bluemoonstone Creations 38Bogumil Bytomski 79Bohemme 22, 30Bomberg 30Borgioni 26Brumani 51Buccellati 22, 62Buddha Mama 49 Bvlgari 29Caï 37Carberonia 53Carla Amorim 34, 50, 64Caroline C 12, 23, 48, 63Carrera y Carrera 29Casato 26, 49Catherine Zadeh 37Cervera Barcelona 47Chimento 64Clara Williams 48Coge 37, 47Color Story 49 Commelin 50Constantin Wild 45, 75, 80Cornelia Goldsmith 52, 68Costis 37, 45Couture 28Crivelli 65, 49D Quality Jewelry 71Dada Arrigoni 26, 50, 66Damiani 37
Danhov 52Daniel Espinosa 46Daniela Becker 81DeGrisogono 30, 67Denny Wong 52Dermond Anandara 71Dhevan Dara 72Different Gems 45Dilamani 47Djula 26Duang Kaew Jewelry 70Dust Kreations 52E&V Jewellery 50Effy 69Eichhorn 38, 47Elena Kriegner 25Elizabeth Garvin 53Elke Berr 35, 37, 52Ellagem 75Emiko Pearls 63Emotion France 41Entice/KGK 64Evocateur 68Ewa Lewanowicz 78ExCell 75F&R 71Faberge 69Fondation Haute Horlogerie 20Garaude 45Garden of Silver 47Garrard 65Gem Production 71GianaMayra 21, 48Gintare 29Giovanni Ferraris 33GIT 4, 56, 57, 72Goldlip 71Goshwara 34Green G 76Groh + Ripp 81Gumha 46Gumuchian 21H. Weiss 47H.J. Namdar 64H.Stern 25H.Weiss 38Helmut Wolf 81Hilat 33HKTDC 36Horsecka 30Ice Link 37Imogen Belfield 26Imperial 62Inbar 26, 44Inhorgenta Munich 32Inori 37Isabelle Langlois 45, 50Ivanka Trump 66J Jewels 52Jacek Ostrowski 78Jack Kelege 22, 44, 64Jacob & Co. 21, 26, 68Jacqueline Diani 51Jade Chiu 30Jane A. Gordon 62Jane Bohan 22Jane Taylor 46JCK 39Jessica Surloff 44Jewellery Theatre 49 Jewelmer Joaillerie 21, 63JJ Number 8 38, 52Jochen Pohl 38, 46, 52Jolanta and Andrzej Kup-niewscy 79
Just Jules 38 Jutta Munsteiner 81Jye Luxury Collection 14, 21, 22, 63, 65Katherine Jetter 21Katie Decker 50Kavant 46, 63KdeCraft 72Kismet 25, 29Laurence Bruyninckx 64Le Vian 48, 53Leaderline 44Leyla Abdolahi 51Lika Behar 13, 48Liverino 62Lorenz Baumer 25, 44, 48Loretta Castoro 33Luca Carati 22, 51, 66Lydia Courteille Cover, 26, 53Madstone 44Magerit 47, 76Mahallati 71Malgorzata Wasowska 79Marcia Budet 51, 67Marcin Zaremski 79Marco Bicego 46Mario Buzzanca 62, 76Mark Schneider 25, 45Martin Flyer 64Masaki Shimizu 76Masriera 50Mastoloni 63Mathon Paris 37, 52Mattiolli 51Mazza 34, 52MCL 51Meghna 25, 26Meissen 34, 45Memoire 65Metalsmiths Sterling 22, 47Michael Endlich 38Michael John Jewelry 38Mimi 63Misis 21, 46Mokoso Atelier 10, 22, 26, 49, 71Monelle Designs 65Monplaisir 21Moraglione 46Morphee 26Motyle 79Mousson Atelier Mousson Atelier 5, 46, 48, 68, 74Muzo International 15, 16, Back CoverMVee 30, 75My Vice 22Nada G 26Nanis 44, 69Nar Wong 44, 64, 65, 75Nguyen 33Nouvelle Bague 48, 67Octium 25Okurado 75Old World Chain 33Omi Prive 49, 50Oscar Heyman 21Palmiero 68Pamela Huizenga 50, 68Paolo Piovan 30Paula Crevoshay 45Pawel Kaczynski 79Pearl Paradise 62Pedro Siquiera 53Penny Preville 25, 37Petra Schwinn 81
E D I T O R I A L A N D A D V E R T I S E R S ’ S I N D E X
Philip Zahm 68Picchiotti 21Pinar Oner 25, 33PKL Silver 71Prima Gold/Pranda 71Re’Volve 67Rina Limor 29, 34, 66Robert Manse 37Roberto Bravo 26, 69Rosato 47Rosy Blue 83Sanalitro 48Sandy Leong 29Sarah Ho 75Sawell 75Scott Kay 37Sea Hunt 62Serafino Consoli 2, 3Sethi Couture 29Shamila 44Sharart 25Sharart and Kavant 29Shawish 47Shawn Ames 48Sicis Watches 30Sorellina 21Stanislav Drokin 46, 81Staurino 21Stephen Webster 25, 26, 34, 68Suna 65Supreme Jewelry 22Sutra 26, 50Suzanne Kalan 25Suzy Landa 52Sylvie Collection 38Sylvie Corbelin 26, 29Syna 37Szwed Design 79Takayas 45Tara 63Tasha R 65Tateossian 37The Fifth Season 75Thistle & Bee 25, 48, 69Thompson 30, 37Tirisi 45Todd Reed 47Tomasc Donocik 37Tomo Karono 81Tony Maccabi 38Tous 68TTF 21UBM 54, 55Utopia 63Van der Bauwede 29Versace 69Vianna Brasil 49, 69VicenzaOro 31Victor Veylan 33, 52Vida 30Vieri 50Vivaan 66, 67Xin Jewellery 22Yael Designs 69Yael Sonia 52Yoko London 62, 66, 75Yvel 62Zaffiro 38Zannetti 37Ziva 65Zorab 33Zydo 65
82
EUROPE, INTERNATIONAL, USA & CANADA, CHINA, SPAIN & LATIN AMERICA
SUBSCRIBE TO THE MAGAZINEWWW.EUROPASTAR.COM/SUBSCRIBE
The World’s Most Influential Watch Magazine
SUBSCRIBE TO RECEIVE YOUR NEXT ISSUEWWW.CIJINTL.COM/SUBSCRIBE
Alessio Boschi 21, 34Alice K 49 Alisa 33 Alishan 21Amali 29, 53Amber-Ring/Agata Calka 78Amberwood/Marta Wlodarska 79Amrapali 76Anahita 33, 38, 51, 69Andrea Candela 33Andrea Li 53Andreoli 66Andrew Hamilton Crawford 22Angelique de Paris 22, 26Anita Sondore 25Anthony Lent 30, 52Antwerp Cut 42, 76Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair 42, 43Anzie 38, 53
DAILY NEWS, DAZZLING JEWELLERY, TRENDS & COLOURSTRENDS & COLOURS
7.46 ct emerald cut in our Bogotá workshops, from a 14.74 ct rough,Mined in Muzo, Colombia, July the 12th 2013.
BASELWORLD 2015 – 19-26 MARCH – HALL 3.0, BOOTH D31
www.muzoemerald.com
