food & wine

By Brigit Binns Photographs by Gary Moss

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The biggest non-wine-related news is the com-plete transformation of the northwest corner of downtown’s 12th and Pine streets: The old A & R furniture store received a stunning new façade and now houses the new location of artisan (artisanpasorobles.com) restaurant, with out-door dining and a full bar with a creative farm-to-shaker cocktail menu.

A few doors down, the crew behind the venerable italian restaurant il Cortile (ilcortileristorante.com) has opened a new casual eatery, la Cosecha Bar + restaurant (locosechabr.com) in the space that has housed vinoteca and fenomenal. The menu tips its hat to Spain as well as chef Santos Macdonal’s home country of Honduras; his brother and long-time partner is in the kitchen. La Cosecha adds even more outdoor dining on what’s now the hottest block in town.

Thomas hill Organics market Bistro & Wine Bar (thomashillorganics.com) will be ex-panding into the former Sealed With a Kiss space; the date will be announced.

Chef Tom fundaro of Villa Creek (villacreek.com) is going mobile with Fundaro’s Food-stream (thefoodstream.com), a modified Air-stream equipped with all the necessary equip-ment to transport tasty comestibles to wineries, breweries, and special events. Track the truck via Twitter @funfoodStream and travel for such fare as The Lonestar (slow-smoked beef brisket, caramelized onion cream, deen Bros. BBQ sauce, and arugula on a soft deli roll) or Green Poutine

(house-cut fries, Hatch green chili gravy, cilantro, onions, and cotija cheese).

Chef Antonio varia of Buona Tavola (btslo.com) restaurant and his nephew Alex Pellini have taken alle-Pia (allepiasalumi.com), their line of fine cured meats, to new heights: The addictive salami and cooking sausages are now stocked in hundreds of groceries, gourmet shops, farmers’ markets, and, of course, eateries. new to the outrageously tasty line: nostrano (meaning “our own”), a mild, lean 12-ounce salami with white wine and coarse black pepper.

negranti Creamery (negrantidairy.com) is adding a new product to their heavenly sheep’s milk ice cream: sheep’s milk ricotta. Alexis negranti makes the ricotta with whole milk from pasture-raised sheep. Utterly unlike cow’s-milk ricotta, this product is creamy and nutty with beautiful grassy notes in the finish.

Paso robles is the place to be these days. The town is bursting with flavor-forward restaurants, terroir-tapping wineries, and hip shops, hotels, and community spaces. And more are popping up every day. So we looked to cookbook author and Paso resident Brigit Binns to give us the behind-the-scenes, heard-it-here-first lowdown.

BelOW (clockwise from top left): jamón ibérico with figs from la Cosecha Bar + restaurant; freshly made vanilla bean ice cream from negranti Farms; owner and partner alex Pellini, inspecting the Calabrese sausages at alle-Pia.

Foodie News FeedThe scene is cooking in Paso.

Here’s a taste of what’s going on.

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Long an established sweet spot for Rhône single-varietals and blends as well as zinfandel, Paso is quickly gaining traction as an excellent place to grow and make estimable cabernets and Bordeaux blends. Spearheaded by daniel daou, the fast-growing group Cab Collective (pasoroblescab.com) seeks to raise national awareness for these grape varieties, including a new annual event scheduled on the dates previously occupied by the now-departed Hospice du Rhône festival, in late April.

Perched on a truly stellar strip of Adelaida Road next to heavy hitters like daou vineyards & Winery and Adelaida Cellars, lone madrone’s (lonemadrone.com) new, rustically elegant tast-ing room will serve artisan-grilled sandwiches plus wine and cider by the glass on the patio every

other Sunday, accompanied by live music. By day, winemaker and co-owner neil Collins and sis-ter Jackie Meisinger make wine for Tablas Creek vineyard, so the wines are every bit as excellent as you’d imagine.

The latest trend in bone-dry, elegant rosé wines: a shift toward a more muted shade of salmon or onion skin. The color is the result of a Provençal-style vinification, with very little, if any, time spent macerating on the skins. The charge toward the paler end of the spectrum is being led by the lion of Paso wine, Stephan Asseo of l’aventure (aventurewine.com). This year L’Aventure re-leased its sought-after rosé in magnum bottles for the first time, and at the annual real men drink Pink (realmendrinkpink.org) event this past July (an absolute hoot and must-go for 2014), the pinks were leaning decidedly paler.

Wine is not the only spirited beverage produced in Paso Robles these days: Villicana Winery (villicanawinery.com) recently launched Re:find >

(continued on page 87)

BelOW: actor Casey Biggs is the Paso Wine Man. OPPOsite: everywhere you turn in Paso, there is good food and drink to be found and a growing sense of community. at the Paso Underground tasting room (center), which showcases wines from four different wineries, visitors can get a pour from guillaume Fabre, owner and winemaker of Clos solène Winery. Owner Jackie Meisinger dispenses wine and conversation at the lone Madrone wine-tasting room (bottom left). anyone can bring their dough to Paso Bread Oven (bottom right), a community wood-fired brick oven, and enjoy a glass of wine and a chat with locals while the bread bakes.

Beverage BulletinNews about wines, beers, spirits, and

more is free-flowing around town.

He’s dreamy. He’s engaging. He’s suave and confident and capable. Familiar yet mysterious … he’s almost certainly a little dangerous. men want to be him. Women want to be with him. We all want to enjoy life like he does. He’s even quite interesting when explaining his preference for a particular adult beverage—but he is most certainly not The most interesting man in the World.

He is the Paso Wine man, part wine-lover and part secret travel agent. Played by Casey Biggs in a series of web videos released by the Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance (pasowine.com), the Paso Wine man is certainly the most pas-sionate advocate for an American Viticultural Area to ever come across the World Wide Web. Biggs’ deadpan delivery exudes fantastic and unprecedented levels of coolness, and ever since the character’s first appearance in a video titled

“zinfandel: Paso’s Wine,” wine-country marketing has never quite been the same.

“That first zinfandel spot is iconic. That’s the one that branded the entire thing,” says Biggs. “And it went on to win the grand prize in Wine Spectator’s 2011 Video Contest. since then my character has often been compared to The World’s most interesting man,” he says, referring to the character at the center of the dos Equis beer marketing campaign, “but really, that’s not the case here. The only direction i gave the writer was that he had to make everyone who watches the video want to be me—me the character, that is.”

Biggs says he would love to shoot more of the videos, but it’s not like he’s treating this as his big break. He’s a Juilliard-trained actor and director and, in addition to working for both the stage and screen in locations that sometimes turn out to be

quite far-flung, he teaches in the master’s program at the new school for drama in new York. Plus, there are sci-fi conventions to attend and greet the fans of his recurring role as damar on the television series Star Trek: Deep Space Nine. And that’s all the more reason to relish the time at his home in Paso Robles with his wife, cookbook author Brigit Binns (the writer of this feature as well as Taste/Food on page 92). despite living so far away from showbiz’s bright lights, Biggs can’t help but be recognized. only now, he says, “if i’m in Paso, and in certain areas, like at Lowe’s, i’m starting to get recognized as the Paso Wine man as well.” —Anthony Head

For an exclusive interview with the Paso Wine Man by our very own Armchair Oenophile, visit 805living.com. To see Paso Wine Man videos, visit pasowine.com.

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(refinddistillery.com), a line of handcrafted spir-its modeled after gin and vodka; a new collabo-ration between Joe Barton (Barton family Wines and Grey Wolf) and Stephen Kroener (Silverhorse) will release their first gin this fall under the name kroBar. The new German still at red soles Winery (redsoleswinery.com) was fired up at the end of July. first project: Bishop’s Mistress, a brandy aged in the winery’s sherry and port casks. Then, a grappa-style spirit sporting the moniker California Hooch.

Justin Vineyards & Winery ( justinwine.com) is widely credited with putting the Paso Robles appellation on the map in the ’90s. in early August of this year, the complete, two-year transformation of its tasting room, restaurant, and superpremium suites was finally unveiled. The elegant contemporary design features soar-ing, airy spaces and large windows that frame the stunning views of vineyards and the Santa Lucia Mountains. The two-story tasting room adds 2,000 square feet of indoor space; outdoors, there’s comfy seating and an open-air kitchen. Worth the drive, especially if you stay for lunch at the intimate and sensational restaurant, where chef Will Torres communicates his deep affection for the local bounty on every plate.

After years of blood, sweat, beer, and planning, the Central Coast’s newest craft brewery is open. Barrelhouse Brewing Co. (barrelhousebrewing.com) has a 20-barrel brew house, bottling opera-tion, and lovely half-acre outdoor beer garden. Outside, a flatbed truck is used as a stage for live music, surrounded by seating and a large grassy area for picnicking. A pond and gorgeous waterfall round out the beer-friendly ambience. Local food trucks like fundaro’s foodstream and Gypsy flame have added this popular new venue to their list of stops.

With a room full of hats and other dress-up items, Clautiere Vineyard (clautiere.com) has long been popular with fun-seeking visitors. The on-site barn has been renovated into a new tasting room with a few extra perks, including a stage with Surround Sound that’s perfect for live music. Plus there’s an outdoor patio with plenty of seating and shade overlooking a serene mosaic sculpture garden.

new to the downtown tasting room line-up: Taste Amy Butler’s small-lot blends at lXV Wine (lxvwine.com) and Steve Anglim’s artistry at Burbank ranch (burbankranch.com).

Tasting isn’t just about wine in Paso: indulge in a soda tasting at Pithy little Wine Company (pithywine.com), a tasting room and foodie boutique. Try year-round flavors like Black

Cherry and Cream Soda, all handcrafted in small batches from all-natural ingredients. Special flavors include Orange Cream and Cola.

Enter through the back door of the AndBe Boutique (see “Shop Talk” below), and you’re in the hip new four-winemaker tasting room, Paso underground (pasounderground.com). Each winemaker produces less than 500 cases a year. The Underground can also be accessed from a back alley, which leads to a succulent-bedecked tasting garden.

andBe Boutique (facebook.com/andbeboutique) is a brand new elegant Euro-sleek shop offering highly collectible home linens and décor plus clothing, stylish jewelry, and leather accessories. The two owners choose every item, big and small, with the utmost care and attention.

At the recently refurbished corner of 12th and Pine is newcomer General store Paso robles (generalstorepr.com), which stocks picnic-ready comestibles crafted by Trumpetvine Catering, nonperishables for the well-provisioned pantry, and worthy nonedible additions to both home and vacation-stay kitchens.

The eclectic Firefly (805-237-9265) boutique—filled with handcrafted cutting boards, vintage linens, jewelry, apparel, and books (including cookbooks)—has moved onto the same block.

FALL CALENDARFrom september 28 to october 31, visit Granny’s Gardens (mygrannysgardens.com) pumpkin patch at san marcos Ranch. There are Jacob’s sheep, mini-horses, and mini-donkeys to visit, and the haunted Lost dutchman mine may even have a pit of snakes for this Halloween.

october 18 to 20 is the annual Harvest Wine Weekend (pasowine.com), the most colorful time of year in Paso. Energy is high as winemakers and the whole town celebrate with events both traditional and not. Virtually every winery hosts dinners, pairings, tastings, and vineyard tours, each one with its own individual flavor.

The famous Harvest Festival Party at Opolo Vineyards (opolo.com)—includes grape stomping, gypsy serenades, and fab photo-ops—and takes place on october 18 and 19.

For this year’s Harvest dinner on october 19, Lone Madrone (lonemadrone.com) will celebrate the cuisine of renowned Parisian chef Auguste Escoffier.

Shop talkNew spots promise plenty of retail

therapy, much of it edible.

shops between meals: general store Paso robles is stylish outside (below) and in (opposite, top left); picnic provisions and more await at Pithy little Wine Company (opposite, top right); and andBe Boutique owners andrea dewit and Beatrice dubes asseo offer an expertly edited selection of clothing and décor (opposite, bottom).

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This fall the diminutive, hip-eclectic jewel inn Paradiso (innparadiso.com) will open the Antique Boutique, full of unique ancient and not-so-ancient treasures from around the region and around the world.

Croad Vineyards (croadvineyards.com) has added a warm, Spanish-style three-suite inn with very private accommodations. Each suite sports flat-screens, Wi-fi, and a fridge. The garden—with gorgeous west-side views—is fully equipped for outdoor dining. Use of a full kitchen is optional, and catering is available. There’s even a cozy wood-burning fireplace. A gracious and

expansive new nine-bedroom renovation at the summerwood Winery & inn (summerwoodwine.com) is now complete. All rooms have a balcony and fireplace, while public spaces include an open-air demonstration kitchen, outdoor dining, and paths among the culinary garden. Chef Kelly Wangard is always on hand for breakfasts, happy-hour hors d’oeuvres, and nighttime desserts.

One of Paso’s most elegant and peaceful boutique lodgings, hotel Cheval (hotelcheval.com) has launched in-room spa services, with a luxe line of highly indulgent, all-pure products that have taken the United Kingdom by storm: Temple Spa (templespa.com). The Skin Truffle

cream alone—with a huge following across the pond—is worth seeking out. You won’t find Temple Spa anywhere else in the United States—for now.

Historic Paso robles inn (pasoroblesinn.com) has completed a substantial face-lift that includes expansive new plantings for the two-year-old organic kitchen garden set under the majestic oak trees, the addition of some dog-friendly suites, and new mineral-spa tubs for enjoying the healing waters that first put Paso on the map back in the 1860s.

The award-winning small-production winery domaine degher (mojocellars.com) has a new vacation rental set right in the middle of a bucolic vineyard. Proprietor denis degher calls it a “Bed and Bottle.” Beginning of a trend?

A mural by members of Paso robles Youth arts Foundation, entitled Bryan Inspired, went up on the long wall of Artisan restaurant’s new loca-tion in late July. The mural honors the late Bryan Brady (the son of a Robert Hall winemaker), who passed away tragically in 2010 at the age of 21. The art on Artisan’s wall will change several times a year, always showcasing talents of the commu-nity’s young people.

Paso Bread Oven is a beautiful, handmade community bread oven built and stoked by builders and owners Kevin and Heather Mikelonis. follow them on Twitter @PasoBreadOven to learn when the oven will be firing, then bring by oven-ready dough and wine for sipping while the oven does its magic. Passersby are welcome to stroll up the driveway and check out the oven at any time.

The 3,300-seat Vina robles amphitheatre (vinarobles.com) kicked off its premiere season with a schedule chock-full of stars, offering con-certgoers a unique chance to pair exceptional wines and a range of dining options with live, world-class music and performances. Think the doobie Brothers, Bonnie Raitt, and the Moody Blues.

BelOW: the tasting room at the vina robles hospitality Center (left) and the beautiful stone exterior of hotel Cheval.

Birthday BAshdecember 31 kicks off the yearlong celebration of the 125th anniversary of the city of Paso Robles (prcity.com). Look for anniversary events including a birthday party, Fourth of July celebration, an expanded Pioneer day celebration, historical tours, and more.

Hotel HEadlinesNew accommodations, many on the

grounds of wineries, are popping up to lodge visitors from near and far.

Community NewsArt, bread, music, and—of course—wine

are bringing people together.

The future looks bright in Paso—plans are already in motion for many

new establishments. To read about them, go to 805living.com.

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SUMMERWOOD 2010 Vin RougePaso robles ($27)summerwoodwine.comVin Rouge is a melodious cuvée of syrah, cabernet sauvignon, grenache, and zinfandel. it demonstrates—with juicy berry and warm spice flavors—how both Bordeaux and Rhône varietals can live in harmony within the same bottle.

TABLAS CREEK VINEYARD2012 VermentinoPaso robles ($27) tablascreek.comVermentino. Although it sounds like a rat-faced character from The Godfather Part IV, it’s actually the name of an italian grape that makes bright and refreshing white wine. delicately laced with citrus and floral aromas, Tablas Creek’s style is light-bodied and fruit forward on the palate with a mature, rich finish.

HALTER RANCH 2012 Côtes de Paso BlancPaso robles ($28) halterranch.comPicpoul blanc is a sort of obscure Rhône grape known for high acidity. so when it’s blended with grenache blanc, roussanne, and viognier, like it is here, the result is a lush and an aromatic white with the kind of acidity that pairs with roast chicken, grilled halibut, and Camembert.

VINES ON THE MARYCREST 2010 Petite SirahPaso robles ($30) vinesonthemarycrest.comA big, bold, smoky red wine that remains approachable enough to pair with rack of lamb, beef, and game meats. A great introduction to an underappreciated varietal.

MIDNIGHT CELLARS 2010 Estate MerlotPaso robles ($36) midnightcellars.comThis 100 percent merlot is mouthfilling and rich. it’s redolent with black cherry, cedar, and wet stone flavors that would be perfect when paired with good friends and good conversation.

PEACHY CANYON WINERY2011 Mustard Creek ZinfandelPaso robles ($38) peachycanyon.comi love Paso zinfandel—and Peachy Canyon produces so many different styles that it’s hard to choose a favorite. But i’ll try: mustard Creek is elegantly structured and appetizing with warm spices, black raspberry, and deliciously bitter coffee-bean flavors.

AUSTIN HOPE 2011 SyrahPaso robles ($42) hopefamilywines.comsyrah is a Rhône superstar that loves Paso soils. This wine begins with smoky, earthy aromas; as it opens up in the glass, the jammy flavors of licorice, boysenberry, and blackberry lead to a long finish and a longing for barbecued pork ribs.

JUSTIN VINEYARDS & WINERY2011 Reserve TempranilloPaso robles ($45) justinwine.comi think it’s a pretty exciting time for spain’s famous tempranillo varietal in California, and i hope to see more of it produced. Justin’s is silky but solid with plum, red berry, and earthen flavors. Great with smoked meats of all kinds.

VINA ROBLES2009 SuenderoPaso robles ($49)vinarobles.comA good blend is balanced. A great blend is balanced and engaging and refined. suendero, a full-bodied Bordeaux blend of cabernet sauvignon and petit verdot, covers all the bases with some added eloquence.

ADELAIDA CELLARS 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Viking Vineyard ReservePaso robles ($75) adelaida.comFruit forward and varietally distinct, this cab is complex with dark berry and tobacco flavors and structured with firm but giving tannins that strike this oenophile’s sweet spot.

—Anthony Head

Paso PicksThe Armchair Oenophile selects his favorite

bottles (so far) from Paso Robles for 2013.