Thai foodTable of contents

Issue page

Introduction 2

Spices 3

Rice:Fried rice 4Fried meat/seafood on rice 5Sticky rice 5-6Curry dishes with rice 6Steamed chicken on rice 7Steamed pork leg on rice 7

Noodles:Fried noodle

“Pad thai” 8“Pad see-o” 9“Lat na” 9

Noodle soups 10“Ka-nom chin” 11

“Yam” dishes:“Yam woon-sen” 12“Yam” with meat/seafood 12“Tom yam” 13“Yam pla-dook foo” 13“Yam ma-moo-ang” 14

Esan food and “Kap-Kem”:“Som tam” 15“Lap” 16“Nam tok” 16“Tom sep”/”joom sep” 17

Meatballs (“Lookshin”) 18

Food in pubs 19

Desserts and fruits 20

Food glossary 21-23

February 99

Introduction:

1

Purpose: So many times did I meet people who came to Thailand and were familiar only with “Pad thai”, fried rice and some fried meat (or seafood) with plain rice. If they wanted to experience something “oriental” they would order some sweet-and-sour dish (probably remembering it from Chinese restaurants). Worse than that, they would add some salt and soy sauce to the dish. If it’s because that’s the way they like it – so let it be (can’t argue with people’s taste, can I ?!). However, I’m afraid that this is rarely the case – they just don’t know what else to order, where to order it and what spices might be added. The purpose of this short text is to give some extra information on Thai food to whom that not only eats to live, but also lives to eat. It will not cover all information about Thai food, probably just a very small part of it. However, it can be interesting and valuable knowledge to visitors and travelers to the region, in a way of learning more about Thai dishes, where to find them, how to recognize them on street stalls and what to expect when ordering any. I hope that reading this, although not presented as a professional text, would give you a chance to be more familiar with the Thai cuisine.

Focus: Most of the food mentioned here, will be found on street stalls or small restaurants. Nevertheless, food on street shops and stalls is not likely to be inferior, by any mean, to food at fancy restaurants and probably better than the one offered in guest –houses (wherein it will be probably more expensive). In general (with a very few exceptions, to which I might be doing wrong here) the food in guest-houses is quite far from the original Thai version, trying to adjust it to the “western” style. Besides, they will have on the table different spices (salt, pepper, soy sauce and ketchup.), which are very different from Thai spices (see first section), and that will change the taste to a more Chinese or western style. Most of the dishes mentioned here are not taken from the “royal Thai cuisine”, but from the everyday food. The fact that they are inexpensive doesn’t change a bit.

Recognizing a good place: The very basic rule of any restaurant, that a crowded place serves good food (thus, also probably fresh food), applies also here with a supplement: the “restaurant” doesn’t have to look fancy and be good located. Some of the best places to get really excellent food are street stalls placed on a crowded sidewalk. One of the main reasons that the food at those places is better than the one served in guest-houses, is the fact that the variety of food in those stalls is smaller (sometimes only one single kind of dish), meaning that they specialize in one or two things - therefore, making it better than a place that tries to make dozens of dishes. Of course, as mentioned before, some of the fancy Thai restaurants do serve delicious food, in spite of their huge variety, however that’s not the case with the simple tourist restaurants.

Pronunciation: The pronunciation of the English letters in the Thai words in the text should be as followed:

“ee” as in the word “beer”“ai” as in the word “Thai”“oo” as in the word “poor”“e” as in the word “egg”“aw” sounds as the letters “ow” in the word “now”

Notice also, that the word “Esan” (north east region of Thailand) should be pronounced: Ee-san.

Remarks: any comments and remarks would be welcomed on this email address: sales@gel-candles.cc

Eric Hananel

1. Spices:

2

Thai traditional spices and dresses are quite different from what you’ll find on the “westernized” restaurants (namely: salt, pepper, soy sauce and ketchup).

Usually you’ll find on original Thai places the following spices:

Fish sauce (“Nam pla”, also pronounced: “Nam pa”) – made out of water and Anchovy fish. It’s the Thai substitute to slat, with some extra flavor of seafood. It is used on uncountable dishes, probably making it the most common dressing and cooking sauce in the Thai cuisine.

The sauce has a light brown color. It will be served to the table in the original bottle or in a small vessel.

Fish sauce with chili (“Nam pla plick”) – same as the former, but with sliced small fresh chili. Also, fish sauce with chili and lemon (“nam pla plick ma-naw”). This will be more commonly used on fried rice. The lemon goes well on every fried dish.

Sugar (“Nam tan”) – the purpose of the sugar is to make a balance to other tastes. It is (surprisingly) applied in noodle soups and even in fried rice/noodles dishes. It doesn’t always suit the western taste, speaking generally, however half a spoon or so might improve the dish’s taste in some cases.

Vinegar with chili (“plick nam som”, notice that “nam som” means orange juice as well as vinegar). Most commonly you’d find one of the two following kinds: The first - clear vinegar with sliced wide green or orange chilies. The second – reddish (or sometimes greenish) sauce wherein the chilies are grounded. The former is usually applied in clear noodle soups (“qwey-tee-o nam ….”) or on fried noodles (“pad thai”, “pad see-o”, “lat na” and so), whereas the latter is more commonly used in brownish noodle soups (“qwey-tee-o nam tok”) or on steamed pork leg on plain rice (“caw ka moo”). One more general rule, is that usually the larger chilies are not as hot as the small ones (“plick kee noo”, for instance).

Grounded dry chili (“Plick pon”) – while some dishes will be spicy when served (“som tam”, “nam tok” etc’), others are not spicy when served (in general, noodle soups, fried rice or fried noodles). The grounded chili will be applied, according to taste, on the second type of dishes, although for some, adding Fish sauce with chili and/or vinegar with chili, would do…

2. Rice:

3

You’ve probably noticed by now the important role of rice in the Thai culture. So, important it is, that the Thai word for eating is: ”kin caw” (literally meaning: consuming Rice). Moreover, Thais use the phrase: “kin caw lee-yang ?” (meaning: “have you eaten already”), as a greeting (same as British would say: “it’s a lovely day isn’t it ?!”). Rice is consumed in almost every meal and form: it can be plain/steamed rice (“caw plaw” or “caw suey”), fried rice (“caw pad”), sticky rice (“caw nee-o”), which is used mainly with Esan dishes (east Thailand dishes) or as a dessert (adding to it some coconut milk and fruits or beans). In addition, most of noodles around are made from rice.

2.1 Fried rice (“ caw pad ”):

One of the simplest made dishes and well known among foreigners, is fried rice with some meat or seafood, vegetables, and occasionally fried egg.

Thai: most common are: “caw pad…. gkay, moo, koong, pla mook, ta-le” (respectively: chicken, pork, shrimp, squid, mix seafood). “caw pad … plick” is the same but with fried chili (if you like chili – you’d like it better that way).

Spices to apply: very recommended to add some Fish sauce with chili and lemon (“Nam

pla plick ma-naw). Adding lemon to fried dishes, even or mainly with fried egg, makes the dish lighter. Grounded chili can be added by taste.

How hot is it ?: In general most of the fried rice versions are not served spicy, unless you ask for it (for example, if you ask for “caw pad gkay plick”, which is “fried rice with chicken and chili).

Recommended places: So simple it is made that there are numerous places to get good fried rice (even guest-houses can make it well enough….) so there’s no point of mentioning specific places.

Fork&spoon or chopsticks ?: fried rice like most rice dishes, is eaten with a fork and spoon (no need to be more Thai than Thai, trying to eat it with chopsticks). The fork is used to shove the food into the spoon, and the spoon is served to the mouth.

Share it or eat by yourself: fried rice, in general, is a “personal” dish (like western food), wherein everybody eats his/her own dish.

How to recognize the right place: A large pan, eggs, vegetables and an electrical rice steamer or bowl – are good evidences indicating that they serve fried rice.

2.2 Fried meat/seafood/vegatables on rice (“ pad …. lat na caw ”):

4

Another simple dish and well known among foreigners, is fried meat/seafood on top of plain steamed rice. One particular version of the sort is: “Pad Kap-raw …. Lat na caw” (fried meat/seafood with basil, garlic and chili on plain steamed rice).

Thai: most common are: “Pad gkay, moo, koong, pla mook, ta-le lat caw.” (“chicken, pork, shrimp, squid, mix seafood”, respectively ).

Spices to apply: very recommended to add Fish sauce with chili. (“Nam pla plick”).

Grounded chili can be added by taste.

How hot is it ?: In general most of these dishes are not served spicy, unless you ask for it (if you’ll ask for “Pad gkay plick lat na caw”, which is “fried chicken and chili on rice”). Also, if you’ll ask for “kap-raw” (basil leafs with chili and garlic) it might be quite hot.

Recommended places: this is another case of a simple madden dish, resulting that there are numerous good places. Thus, there will be no point of mentioning specific places.

Fork&spoon or chopsticks ?: like most rice dishes it is eaten with a fork and a spoon. The fork is used to shove the food into the spoon, and the spoon is served to the mouth.

Share it or eat by yourself: In general, it’s a “personal” dish (like western food), wherein everybody eats his/her own dish.

How to recognize the right place: A large pan, vegetables and an electrical rice steamer or bowl – are enough.

2.3 Sticky rice (“ caw nee-o ”):

Sticky rice is used either in sweets (look in relevant section) or with “Esan food” (more information about the Thai eastern food - find in the relevant chapter). The information below refers to the latter.Sticky rice is made not only differently than plain rice, but also it’s made out of a different type of rice grain. After it has been steamed, the sticky rice will be not fried or mixed with the food, rather it will be used eating it along with the main dish/dishes (because it is usually eaten with spicy food, giving the tongue a short break of the spices) or dipping it in (if the dish is not too spicy for you!!!).

Thai: as above. Spices to apply: spices are not to be applied on the rice. If needed, they’ll be applied on

the dish (though, rarely does Esan food need any more spices than when served).

How hot is it ?: Again, the rice itself is not spicy at all, though eaten usually with spicy food (mainly, Esan food).

Recommended places: For recommended places for Esan food – see relevant chapter.

Fork&spoon or chopsticks ?: sticky rice is usually served in plates or small straw basket rolls. It is commonly eaten just with a fork or better with your bare right hand, dipping the rice in the food.

Share it or eat by yourself: It is very popular to eat Esan food in a group, ordering more than one dish to the table (depends on how many people attend the table). Often does the rice arrive in personal plates.

5

How to recognize the right place: As mentioned above, it will be found in most places serving Esan food (see relevant section). Sticky rice is a bit darker and thinner than plain rice. You could also recognize it, many times, by the straw basket rolls in which they are served.

2.4 Curry dishes with rice (“ caw keng ”):

Curry dishes are cooked and prepared in advance, not by order. Thus they will be presented in front of the restaurants offering this kind of food. It will vary from 2-3 dishes in some places to 20 and more in others. Curry dishes, in general, are quite spicy. They are served in mild-temperature and eaten, usually, with plain rice.

Thai: “Caw keng …gkay, poo, moo, lookshin pla etc’” – “curry with chicken, crab, pork, fish ball, etc’”

Spices to apply: “Caw keng” usually arrives with strong tastes, making it almost

needless to apply any spices. If any, then you might consider adding some Fish sauce (with or without chili, “Nam pla plick” or “Nam pla”, respectively).

How hot is it ?: These dishes range from very hot to medium. Generally, tending towards the hot or very hot. You’ll be able to see usually the chilies in the dish and figure it out.

Recommended places: Because the dishes are prepared in advance, and therefor shown in the front of the shop, it’s easier to learn about the dish before ordering it. Two recommended places in the area of the Patpong are: One in a small alley, that connects Patpong with Patpong 2 (next to Silom road) – the place is usually opened until evening time and it has a huge variety of dishes. However, the place is only a “take away” place – no seats around. The second is on Suriwong st. (the other end of Patpong) about 50 mt after Patpong 2 (if you go on the direction from Patpong to Patpong 2 on Suriwong st.). This place has also some Esan food and other dishes. It has seats, and it’s open until late. One nice spot in Banglampoo is just next to the Seven-eleven shop that is opposite of Pizza-Hut.

Fork&spoon or chopsticks ?: Same as most rice dishes it will be easier eaten with a fork and a table spoon.

Share it or eat by yourself: It can be eaten both ways. Either you choose to take it by yourself, and then you’ll have the dish on top of plain rice, or rather, you can share it with someone, and then order a few dishes in separate plates and some rice for each one of you. Needless to say that I prefer the second way much better. Especially, in dishes like those, that have very concentrated tastes. Thus, mixing a few dishes gives you a balance of tastes.

How to recognize the right place: As mentioned above, the dishes are cooked in advance, therefore they will be presented in front of the restaurant. It will be not difficult to identify the curry sauce by its white color, mixed with some red - depending on the amount of chilies in the dish (you can’t miss the chilies…). Very often the food will be in rectangular aluminum plates.

2.5 Steamed chicken on rice (“ Caw man gkay ”):

6

It is another popular dish, which makes a very light meal. It is usually served with some clear chicken soup and some vegetables on the side. The rice is mixed with the chicken stock, garlic and oil (therefore called “man”, which means oil or oily).

Thai: As above. Spices to apply: Due to its light taste, spices might be added. You might consider adding

some grounded chili (“Plick pon”) and vinegar with sliced chilies (“Plick nam som”).

How hot is it ?: Not hot at all. A good idea for a meal if you had too much spicy food lately.

Recommended places: All around…

Fork&spoon or chopsticks ?: Same as most rice dishes it will be easier eaten with a fork and a table spoon.

Share it or eat by yourself: It is also a dish eaten usually personally, rather than being shared.

How to recognize the right place: Very easy – you’ll be able to see some whole (steamed) chickens hanging on hooks.

2.5 Steamed pork leg on rice (“ Caw ka moo ”):

Similarly to the former it makes a popular light meal. It is usually served with boiled browned egg and some fresh chilies and garlic aside.

Thai: As above.

Spices to apply: Very recommended to apply some vinegar with grounded chilies (recognize them by their reddish or greenish color). Also, if you like it, the fresh garlic and chilies will be nice to add.

How hot is it ?: Not hot at all.

Recommended places: All around…

Fork&spoon or chopsticks ?: Same as most rice dishes it will be easier eaten with a fork and a table spoon.

Share it or eat by yourself: Usually personally, rather than being shared.

How to recognize the right place: Very easy – you’ll be able to see some large piece of steamed pork, usually with some browned boiled eggs.

3. Noodles:Noodles come in many shapes and forms. They are used in soups, in salads and to be fried. The most popular noodles are the “Qwey-tee-o”, which can be in three different sizes. The narrowest are called “Sen mee”, the middle size are “Sen lek” and the largest “Sen yay”. They are used in noodle soups and fried dishes (“Pad thai”, “Pad see-o”, “Lat na” and

7

more). Also popular are - the “Bami” (originally Chinese yellow or green egg noodles), which are used mainly in noodles soups (“Bami nam phet”, for instance). The third kind of noodles are the “Woon sen”, which are glass noodles made out of beans, and used in cold salad (“Yam woon-sen” – look in “yum” section rather this) or in soups (for example: “Tom chet woon sen” - a tasty soup that has a very difficult pronunciation). The last kind is the “Ka-nom-cheen” (which sounds in Thai as if it was a Chinese cake, though it’s far from that), served usually in curry sauce and with vegetables. Usually, noodle dishes are not spicy when served, with the exception of the last two (namely: the “Yam woon-sen” salads, and the “Ka-nom-cheen”). Another finger rule is that most noodles are eaten with chopsticks, with some few exceptions (for example: noodle soup with large noodles, “Sen Yay”, that can be eaten with just a spoon). In addition, it is usually a “personal” dish, where everybody gets is own plate.

3.1 Fried noodles:

It is highly recommended to add some vinegar with sliced (not the grounded) chilies to these dishes. Sugar and grounded chili – by taste, and the fish sauce can be left out (better with noodle soups than with fried noodle dishes).

3.1.1 “ Pad thai ”:

It is probably the most well known dish among travelers and back-packers. It is always made of “Sen lek” (from the “Qwey-tee-o” family), containing noodles, some vegetables, fried egg, peanuts, and usually (but probably not in tourist places) with dried tiny shrimps and tofu. It is also usually served with some green onion and lemon. In general, it comes without meat, however it’s not rare to have it with (steamed large) shrimps or chicken.

Thai: without meat: “Pad thai”, with chicken “Pad thai gkay” and with shrimps “Pad thai koong”.

Spices to apply: very recommended to add some lemon, vinegar with sliced large

chilies, and maybe some sugar and grounded chili (by taste).

How hot is it ?: Not served hot, as most of the noodle dishes.

Recommended places: All around. However try the ones that serve it the Thai style, meaning with dried shrimp and some fresh green onion. You can check out also, one good spot on “Mahachai” rd.(5 minutes walk from Democracy monument) on the first corner of the left side, if you arrive from Democracy monument.

Fork&spoon or chopsticks ?: Much easier, therefor, served always with chopsticks.

Share it or eat by yourself: “Pad thai”, in general, is a “personal” dish (like western food), wherein everybody eats his/her own dish.

How to recognize the right place: If the place makes only “Pad thai” then the “Sen lek” noodles will be fried already in a large pan. If they do some other dishes then look for a large pan, eggs, vegetables and some medium sized noodles (“Sen lek”).

3.1.2 “ Pad see-o ”:

Although quite popular dish among Thais, not a very well known among foreigners. It is usually made out of large noodles, “Sen yay”, and occasionally from the narrow noodles, “Sen mee” (both from the “Qwey-tee-o” family). Containing noodles, some vegetables and fried egg. Not one of the highlights of the Thai cuisine, but can be a change from “Pad thai” from time to time. Usually served with chicken or pork.

8

Thai: “pad see-o gkay, moo“. Respectively: chicken, pork

Spices to apply: very recommended to add some vinegar with sliced large chilies, and maybe some sugar and grounded chili (by taste).

How hot is it ?: Not served hot, as most of the noodle dishes.

Recommended places: All around.

Fork&spoon or chopsticks ?: The large noodles will be served usually with spoon and fork, while the thin noodles with chopsticks.

Share it or eat by yourself: “Pad see-o”, in general, is a “personal” dish (like western food), wherein everybody eats his/her own dish.

How to recognize the right place: More difficult than “Pad thai”, because it’s prepared by order, and usually made in places that make at least one or two more dishes. However, look for a large pan, eggs, vegetables and some large or thin sized noodles – and you could be 80% sure that they can make it.

3.1.2 “ Lat na ”:

“Lat na” is usually made out of large noodles, “Sen yay”, and occasionally from the narrow noodles, “Sen mee” (both from the “Qwey-tee-o” family). Containing noodles, some vegetables and fried egg, and (as opposed to “Pad see-o”) with gravy sauce, giving it a special taste (which, in my opinion, makes a better dish comparing to the former). Also, unlike the “Pad see-o”, it is commonly served with seafood.

Thai: “Pad see-o gkay, moo, pla-mook, ta-le“. : “chicken, pork, squid, seafood”, respectively.

Spices to apply: very recommended to add some vinegar with sliced large chilies, and

maybe some sugar and grounded chili (by taste).

How hot is it ?: Not served hot, as most of the noodle dishes.

Recommended places: All around.

Fork&spoon or chopsticks ?: The large noodles will be served usually with spoon and fork, while the thin noodles with chopsticks.

Share it or eat by yourself: “Lat na”, in general, is a “personal” dish, wherein everybody eats his/her own dish.

How to recognize the right place: More difficult than “Pad thai”, because it’s prepared by order, and usually made in places that make at least one or two more dishes. However, look for a large pan, eggs, vegetables and some large or thin sized noodles – and you could be 80% sure that they can make it.

3.2 noodle soup:

Basically, there are so many kinds of noodle soups, enough to fill a whole book. However, some most known kinds should be mentioned:

The first group is the “Qwey-tee-o nam ….” (followed by the name of the meat or seafood in). As mentioned before, the most common kinds of noodles are “Sen yay”, “Sen lek” and “Sen mee” (order of appearance - from the largest to the thinnest), all made from rice (white

9

colored). These soups are usually with a clear or semi-clear stock. They come with almost any kind of meat - sliced, grilled, smoked, minced and as meatballs (“Lookshin” – more information about meatballs in relevant section).The second group is the “Qwey tee-o nam tok…” (following the name of the meat). “Nam tok”, by it’s own, means either “water fall” or it’s a name of a “Esan dish” (also, see in relevant section). The soup is distinguished from the “Qwey tee-o nam…” by its brownish color, given to it from the boiled blood that is mixed in the stock. It is most popular to have it with internals and boiled egg. The third group is the “Qwey tee-o yen-ta-foo…” (following the name of the meat). The “Yen-ta-foo” is a red sweet syrup added to the noodle soup. Though it sounds a strange mixture it’s interesting and worth trying.The fourth group is the “Bami nam…” (again, following the name of the meat). The “Bami” are Chinese oriented egg noodles, not as common as the “Qwey-tee-o”, but still popular. The fifth group is the “Tom cht woon-sen” (beware of the pronunciation that is almost impossible), which is a clear soup with glass noodles. However, not a very common dish as all the rest.

Notice that noodle soups are not always referred in Thailand as soups, but more as a dish. Thus, drinking the soup’s liquid is not necessary. In addition, it is possible to have the noodles without the soup. Just drop the word “Nam” from the dish’s name. It will be more common to do so with the “Bami” noodles.

Thai: as specified in all the above. Spices to apply: unlike fried noodle dishes, it will be recommended to add some fish

sauce. Highly recommended to add vinegar with grounded chilies to the “Qwey tee-o nam tok” – they are just made for each other. Some sugar and grounded chili should be added by taste. However, It is not recommended to add more sugar to the “Qwet tee-o yen ta foo”, because it will be sweet enough when served due to the syrup.

How hot is it ?: Not served hot as most of the noodle dishes. Sometimes added some black pepper, though.

Recommended places: All around. Worth mentioning: China-town for all “Bami nam” soups and an excellent stall for “Qwey tee-o nam tok” next to Saxophone pub in Victory monument (Thai: “Anoo sawa-ree chai”).

Fork&spoon or chopsticks ?: The large noodles (“Sen yay”) can easily be eaten with just a spoon. The rest with chopsticks. A polite way to eat will be to use the chopsticks for placing the noodles in the spoon and then eating it or rather serving it to your mouth with the chopsticks while the spoon supporting them from beneath.

Share it or eat by yourself: As a rule – definitely a personal dish.

How to recognize the right place: Very easy – noodles, soup bowls etc’. For “Bami” look for yellow colored noodles. Noodle soups will be 99% better in noodle soup shops/stalls than in ordinary restaurants that make them occasionally. The difference is in the stock – a good stock makes the difference !!!

3.3 “ Ka-nom cheen ”:

Neither a fried dish nor a soup, the “Ka-nom cheen” is a nice change (and a cheap one). The white colored noodles are boiled and served with a sauce, Most commonly - chicken curry sauce (“Keng gkay”). You will find on the table a few vegetables to add and mix with the dish (among which: sprout roots, some cabbage and basil leafs).You could add as much as you’d like. “Ka-nom cheen” is a non-meat dish.

10

Thai: as above.

Spices to apply: By taste.

How hot is it ?: The curry sauce might be spicy. However, as more as you add vegetables the less spicy it is.

Recommended places: All around. One good spot is just below “Pata” department- store in “Pinklaw” (on the western side of the “Chapaya” river).

Fork&spoon or chopsticks ?: As an exception, it is eaten usually the same way that rice is eaten, namely with a fork and a table spoon.

Share it or eat by yourself: As a rule – definitely a personal dish.

How to recognize the right place: Very easy – white boiled noodles, a bowl of curry sauce, and the accommodated vegetables on each table

4. “ Yam ”:

“Yam” dishes are characterized by a sour and spicy flavor. They are most popular in cold meat or seafood salads or rather in soups. In general they all contain a lot of Fish sauce (making them salty), lime and chilies. “Yam” dishes range from spicy to very spicy.

4.1 “ Yam woon-sen ”:

11

It is a (cold) glass noodle salad, most popularly eaten with seafood and/or minced pork. Usually added to the dish; some onion, chilies, Chines celery and occasionally some other vegetables.

Thai: “Yam woon-sen …. Pla-mook, koong, ta-le, moo” (“glass noodle salad with …. Squid, shrimp, seafood, pork).

Spices to apply: Usually not needed. If any then some fish sauce or lemon.

How hot is it ?: Defiantly meant to be hot !

Recommended places: All around. Some local pubs serve excellent “Yam woon-sen”, because it’s such a popular dish to have with alcohol.

Fork&spoon or chopsticks ?: As an exception, it is eaten usually the same way that rice is eaten, namely with a fork and a table spoon.

Share it or eat by yourself: If ordered in pubs – then shared. If on a street stall then usually a personal.

How to recognize the right place: As mentioned above, if pubs then there’s a good chance they’ll have it. Street stalls will be recognized by huge baskets of seafood with ice.

4.2 “ Yam ” with meat and seafood:

Another “pub dish” that goes just perfectly with alcohol is “Yam” salads, distinguished from the former by not having noodles inside. They are also a sour and spicy mix, containing meat or seafood, onion, chilies, Chinese celery and some more vegetables (often tomato and cucumber).

Thai: “Yam …. Noo-a, Pla-mook, koong, ta-le” (“cold sour and spicy salad with …. Beef, squid, shrimp, seafood).

Spices to apply: Usually not needed. If any then some fish sauce or lemon.

How hot is it ?: Defiantly meant to be hot !

Recommended places: Most local Thai pubs serve excellent “Yam” salads, because it’s such a popular dish to have with alcohol.

Fork&spoon or chopsticks ?: Eaten with a fork and a table spoon.

Share it or eat by yourself: Defiantly the shared type.

How to recognize the right place: As mentioned above – good local pubs serve it quite for sure.

4.3 “ Tom yam ” soup:

One of the highlights of the Thai cuisine for sure. It is a sour and spicy dish, like all “Yam” dishes. The “Tom” (in “Tom yam”) stands for boiled. The dish comes in many versions, though usually contains: shallots, lemon grass, kefir leafs and some kind of a ginger. The ginger, lemon grass and kefir leafs are not really meant to be eaten, but for the flavor. Some will add, also, a few vegetables (tomato, cauliflower) and some will add even some milk!

12

It is served either with plain rice, when having it as the main dish or usually without if ordered in pubs. A good idea will be to have it in seafood places, wherein it is often served in metal pots that are heated on the table.

Thai: most popular “Tom Yam …. Koong, ta-le, gkay, pla” (“sour and spicy soup with …. Shrimps/prawns, mix seafood, chicken, fish).

Spices to apply: Not needed.

How hot is it ?: Defiantly meant to be hot !

Recommended places: Most of seafood restaurants and some local Thai pubs.

Fork&spoon or chopsticks ?: Eaten with a table spoon, if with plain rice then also with a fork.

Share it or eat by yourself: More typically shared, but can be a personal dish when ordered with plain rice.

How to recognize the right place: As mentioned above – good seafood places (some good ones are found on the bank of the Chapaya river) and local Thai pubs.

4.4 “ Yam pla-dook foo ”:

“Yam pla-dook foo” is a salad made out of finely sliced green mango, deep-fried minced fish, peanuts, onion and occasionally some more vegetables. The “Pla-dook” is a river fish, very commonly eaten grilled or in “Lap” (see Esan food section). It goes either with sticky rice or with plain rice, though I’d prefer the former.

Thai: as above. Spices to apply: Not needed.

How hot is it ?: Defiantly meant to be hot !

Recommended places: Not very easy to find though many pubs do serve it. An excellent spot is in a small “Soi” (alley), by the name of: “Than tawan”, on Suriwong st, next to Patpong, about 100Mt from it if you go on the direction from Patpong 2 to Patpong walk pass it. The place opens up at evening time and closed when the food runs out…

Fork&spoon or chopsticks ?: Eaten with a fork and spoon.

Share it or eat by yourself: in pubs – shared. In stalls both ways.

How to recognize the right place: if in stalls try to look for a golden-brown deep-fried minced fish (not any more in the form of a fish really) and sliced green mango.

4.5 “ Yam ma-moo-ang ”:

“Yam ma-moo-ang” is a spicy salad, similar in a way to “Som tam” (see “Esan food” section), made out of green sliced mango, peanuts, onion and occasionally some dried tiny little shrimps.

Thai: as above. Spices to apply: Not needed.

13

How hot is it ?: Defiantly meant to be hot (but, can be ordered by taste) !

Recommended places: Not very easy to find though many pubs do serve it. Also can be found in many Esan food restaurants/stalls.

Fork&spoon or chopsticks ?: Eaten with a fork and spoon.

Share it or eat by yourself: in pubs – shared. In stalls both ways.

How to recognize the right place: if in stalls – look for the sliced green mango (usually long ones). Also, look for a mortar – though, it will be used usually for preparing “Som tam” (a much more common dish).

5. “Esan food” and “Kap-Kem” (salted food eaten next to alcohol beverages):

Esan is the north-eastern region of Thailand, also called, but not considered as polite, “Law” (don’t get mixed with the word “Law” for alcohol, which has a very similar pronunciation). Because of a large immigration of Esan oriented people to Bangkok, the Esan food grew to be more and more popular and easy to find all around the city. Esan food, in general, is very

14

spicy, eaten with sticky rice (“Caw nee-o”). Also, it is always served with some green leafs/vegetables to ease the tongue (usually served: cabbage, green long peas and basil mint leafs). A stall or a restaurant of the kind will be recognized by: a large mortar, grilled meat (pork, chicken etc’) and the accompanied vegetables (green long peas, cabbage basil leafs etc’). Also, many stalls of the kind serve grilled chicken. Some of the most popular dishes are the following:

5.1 “ Som tam ” (green papaya salad):

It is one of the most common, well-known and preferred dishes by Thais (mainly people from Esan) – some people can’t go a day without having it at least once. “Som tam” is a spicy sour and sweet dish with some seafood flavor. It contains finely sliced green-papaya, peanuts, lemon, fish sauce, tomatoes, green long peas, lots of chilies and sugar (or sometimes: honey). You can order it the way you prefer it – sweet (“Wan”) or not (“Pee-o”). Also you better ask for the amount of chilies you like – it is always better than saying “not spicy” (“Mai pet”) or: ”a little bit spicy” (“Pet neet-noy”), because your ideas of spicy or not might be very different. Some people will have a small “Som tam” with 10 chilies or more, while most foreigners will do with 1-3 chilies.

Three types of “Som tam”s will be mentioned:

The first is “Som tam thai” – which contains dried small prawns and peanuts.The second is “Som tam poo” – where the “Poo” stands for crab. It is a preserved river crab that gives the dish a strong taste of seafood. The crab parts are usually just chewed. The third is “Som tam pa-la” – here the “pa-la” stands for (raw) dried salted anchovy. Popular mainly among Esan people more than others, due to it’s strong taste of anchovy. Also, if not prepared well, it might be unhealthy because it is made out of raw dried fish.

Thai: as specified above. Spices to apply: Usually not needed.

How hot is it ?: Defiantly meant to be hot !

Recommended places: All around.

Fork&spoon or chopsticks ?: a fork would do. More politely with a table spoon also.

Share it or eat by yourself: Both ways.

How to recognize the right place: As mentioned above, a large mortar, sliced green papaya, and the accompanied vegetables (green long peas, cabbage basil leafs etc’).

5.2 “ Lap ” (minced meat salad):

“Lap” is made out of minced meat – usually: pork (also: beef, duck and raw liver), grilled minced rice (“Caw koo-a“), mint leafs, grounded chili and onion. Normally it is eaten with sticky rice, and has a sour and spicy flavor. Finding “Lap” with raw liver in Bangkok is not that common as in Esan. Though, personally, I would consider eating this version of “Lap” a quite brave thing to do – first because of the raw meat texture and second because it can be really unhealthy if not prepared probably.

15

Thai: “Lap… moo, noo-a, tab, pla-dook” (Lap with : pork, beef, raw liver, river fish). Spices to apply: Usually not needed.

How hot is it ?: Defiantly meant to be hot !

Recommended places: All around – in Esan restaurants/stalls.

Fork&spoon or chopsticks ?: a fork would do. More politely with a table spoon also.

Share it or eat by yourself: Usually a shared dish.

How to recognize the right place: As mentioned above, an Esan stall, recognized by: large mortar, grilled meat, and the accompanied vegetables (green long peas, cabbage basil leafs etc’).

5.3 “ Nam tok ” (Meat salad):

Very similar to the former (namely: “Lap”). The main difference is that the meat is not minced but grilled and sliced. By the way, “Nam tok” also means “water fall”. Most popular are “Nam tok” with pork, chicken and duck.

Thai: “Nam tok… moo, gkay, pet” (Nam tok with : pork, chicken, duck). If said just “Nam tok”, it will be probably understood that it’s with pork. Notice and beware when using the word “pet” for duck, because it might be easily understood as - “spicy”.

Spices to apply: Usually not needed.

How hot is it ?: Defiantly meant to be hot !

Recommended places: All around – in Esan restaurants/stalls.

Fork&spoon or chopsticks ?: a fork would do. More politely with a table spoon also.

Share it or eat by yourself: Usually a shared dish.

How to recognize the right place: As mentioned above, an Esan stall, recognized by: large mortar, grilled meat, and the accompanied vegetables (green long peas, cabbage basil leafs etc’).

5.4 “ Tom sep ” or “ Joom sep ” (mixed Esan soup):

This is the Esan version for Suki (Chinese “self prepared” soup, recommended in MK chain all around Thailand – for instance, in Patunam at the underground floor of World-trade-center mall). The principle is similar and simple - you get a clay pot, heated on the spot, and you order a few kinds of vegetables and meats, which you’ll get separately in a plate. Then you dip them all in the stock and wait until ready to be eaten. You will be served, also, with small soup-plats, in which everyone can mix and eat by his/her taste. The dish, unlike the Suki, has a bit of a ”Yum” taste (meaning, sour and spicy, containing lemon grass and lime). A nice chance to “play” with your food…

Thai: as above. Spices to apply: The sauce that is served along.

16

How hot is it ?: Not served hot, though the sauce might be.

Recommended places: All around – in Esan restaurants/stalls. One spot, for instance, is in Soi Watchana, on the opposite side of Wat “Chakrapong” of the Kho-san rd.

Fork&spoon or chopsticks ?: a spoon and chopsticks (they can be used to dip the food in the pot, as well).

Share it or eat by yourself: Definitely a shared dish.

How to recognize the right place: Look for clay pots in Esan stalls

6. Meatballs (“ Lookshin ”):

Meatballs are eaten usually in four ways: The first – BBQ (on the grill). The second – in noodle soups (see relevant section). The third - cooked in deep oil. The fourth – in curry dishes (see also relevant section). The last will be more often to be prepared by the cook itself, while all the rest are usually bought ready by the stall owner from different suppliers. I will concentrate on the first two, though it’s relevant also to the third.

Meatballs are made from: pork, chicken, beef, fish and shrimp (“Lookshin… moo, gkay, noo-a, pla, koong) – all mixed with flour. Usually, the fish and chicken will be whiter than the rest, the beef and pork will be gray-white and the shrimp’s will be golden-brown. Also, usually, stalls selling meat don’t sell fish and shrimp balls, and the other way around.

17

Typically, it is served with either a spicy sweet sauce (clearer than the second, because it contains 40% sugar !!! ) or salty spicy sauce. Chicken meatballs are more commonly taken with sweet sauce, but it’s really up to you…

7. Food in pubs:

Thai pubs are actually restaurants offering some alcohol and often music. It is very common to have large meals, ordering plenty of dishes to the table, shared by a group of people. Though it is a place for meals, it is not that common to order rice (but, it is usually on the menu).

Many of the dishes are either sour-spicy (“Yum” dishes – check in relevant section) or some Esan meat dishes (“Lap” or “Nam tok” – also, in relevant chapter – refered as: “Kap-Kem”). Also, popular are the deep-fried meats (chicken or pork) – “Ka-doo moo”, for example of the kind, is a deep-fried small pork bone, which is quite recommended.

Another unique snack, is “Caw kiap-koong” – similar to potato chips but made of rice flour and some shrimps.

18

It is acceptable in most pubs to take-in a few snacks/dishes bought outside, if not served in the restaurant. Mainly, green mangoes and the smoked dried squids (“Pla-mook”) that stand next to almost every pub. If you like strong salty seafood taste, you can try this special snack.

8. Desserts and fruits:

The variety is huge – too long for this short text. Some of the Thai combinations look quite odd in western eyes (for example: ice cream in bread roll, sweets and ice cream with corn or black beans etc’).

Fruits – fruit stalls sell usually the following fruits: Pineapple (“Sapalot”), papaya (“Malako”), water melon (“Tang-mo”), guava (“Falang”) and mango (“Ma-moo-ang”). The last two have

19

a more plain taste, therefore, recommended to be eaten with some added spices. There will be normally two kinds of spice bags – both with sugar, salt and grounded chili. However, one will be quite sweet while the other very spicy. The guava looks probably different than the one you know, it is bigger and green (thus, plain tasted). Sometimes you could see also preserved guavas (“Falang dong”), recognized by their yellowish glow– not always for the western taste. The mangos in the stalls are usually not very sweet. Most commonly are the plain mango (“Ma-moo-ang man”) or sour mango (“Ma-moo-ang plee-o”).

Sweet sticky rice - can be a delicious dessert. The first kind is more as a snack: It can be mixed with a cooked banana wrapped with banana leaf (“Caw tom mat” and “Caw nee-o peeng”, the first boiled and sweeter and the second grilled) - or it can be with another fruit. The second kind – (which I prefer by far) is sticky rice with coconut milk, sweetened milk and a fruit. Usually with sweet mango or with jackfruit (“Caw nee-o ma-moo-ang”, and “Caw nee-o ka-noon”, respectively). The former will be quite expensive if not in the season.

Loty – One of the most popular desserts among travelers and tourists. Originally from south Thailand, not necessarily sweet, but surly preferred sweet by tourists. It is a fried pastry with sliced banana inside. Usually will be dressed with sweetened milk (“Nom kon”) or chocolate (in tourist places only).

Food glossary

The following list of words might help you some more while ordering food. Following that, you’ll find some most basic phrase regarding food and ordering it.

On the left column, of the list, you’ll find the English words.

On the central, you’ll find the Thai word written in English letters.

On the right column you’ll get an indication of the level of difficulty of the pronunciation of the word. “E” – stands for Easy, “H” for Hard and “A” for Average. Some of the words are hard to pronounce, because of non-existing similar sounds in English, and some because of similar sounds in Thai with different meaning…

20

Examples of word usage will be marked by - “Ex:” If you didn’t work it out, try asking a Thai “what is this” (“Anee alai ka/kap”), pointing on the object and then try to listen carefully and memorize his/her way of pronunciation.

English Thai LevelAlcohol Law ABanana Kloo ey ABasil Capraw ABeans (also :peas) Too-a EBeef Nua HBeer Beer ABig (Ex: big bottle) Yay (Ex: koo-at yay) EBoiled (Ex: boiled egg) Tom (Ex: kay tom) ABottle Koo-at EBread Ka-nom pan ECabbage Kalampee ACashew nut Met ma-moo-ang ACheap Took AChicken Gkay AChili Plick EChopsticks Ta-kee-ap ECoconut Ma plaw ECoffee Kafe ECold (Ex: cold water) Yen (Ex: nam yen) ECook (verb) Tam ahan ACrab Poo ECup Too-ey ACurry Keng EDrink (verb) Kin nam / doom E / HDrunk Maw / maw lew ADuck Phet AEat Kin / kin caw AEgg Kay (soft pronunciation) AExpensive Peng EFinished (to eat) Set lew AFish Pla/pa EFish sauce Nam pa / nam pla EFood Ahan EFork Som AFried (Ex: fried vegetables) Pad (Ex: pad pak) AFull (of food) Him EGlass Gkew HGreen long peas Too-a fak yaw AGuava Falang (same as :foreigner) EHot (Ex: hot tea) Lon (Ex: cha lon) EHow much Taw lai EHungry Hee-oo / hee-oo caw HIce Nam keng EIce coffee Kafe yen EIce tea Cha yen ELemon Manaw ELemon juice Nam manaw EMango Ma-moo-ang EMeatball Lookshin EMilk (fresh/sweetened) Nom (sot/kon) E

21

Noodles: Rice, white, (thinnest) Rice, white (thin) Rice, white (large) Bean, glass White Egg, yellow

Qwey-ti-o (sen mee) Qwey-ti-o (sen lek) Qwey-ti-o (sen yay) Woon-sen Ka-nom-chin Bamee

H

Onion Om yay EOrange Som EOrange juice (fresh) Nam som (kan) EPapaya Malako EPepper Plick thai EPineapple Sapalot EPlate Chan EPork Moo APrawns Koong EPut (something in the food/drink) Sai ERestaurant Ran ahan ERice (plain) Caw (plaw/soo ey) HRice (sticky) Caw (ni-oo) HSalt Koo-a HSalty Kem ESeafood Ahan ta-le EShake (Ex: banana shake) Pan (Ex: kloo-ey pan) AShrimps Koong ESmall (Ex: a small bottle) Lek (Ex: koo-at lek) ESour Pee-oo HSpicy/not spicy/little bit spicy Pet/mai pet/pet nit noy ASquid Pla mook ASugar Nam tan ESweet Wan ETable To ATasty/very tasty Aloy/aloy mac ETea Cha EThai food Ahan thai EThirsty Hee-oo nam HThis / this one Nee / anee ETomato Makatet EToothpick Mai chim fan AVegetable Pac AVegetarian Mang sa wee lat / che EWater (plain) Nam (plaw) EWater melon Tang mo E

Some useful sentences:

(“Ka” will be used at the end of the sentence when a woman speaking, while “Kap” will be used by a man)

How much is this: Anee taw lai ka/kap

22

What would you like to have (eat, drink etc’): Aw alai ka/kap or : aw alai dee ka/kap

I would like to have… : simplest: aw …., more polite: tong-kan…. Or: ko …. Ka/kap

Fried rice with …. : Caw pad …. Fried …. On plain rice: Pad … lat na caw.

I can’t eat spicy food: Kin pet mai pen ka/kap.

I don’t understand: Mei kaw chai ka/kap.

What do you have to eat (here): Mee alai keen tee nee ka/kap ?

Do you have …(something) ? Mee… mey ka/kap ?

Is it spicy ? Pet mey ka/kap ?

A little bit spicy: Pet neet noy ka/kap.

Very spicy: Pet mac ka/kap.

Eat here (opposite of to take-away): Kin tee nee ka/kap.

What is this ? : Anee-alai ka/kap

Where is the toilet ?: Hong-nam yoo-nai ka/kap

I’m a vegetarian/ I can’t eat meat: Pom/Chan keen mang-sa-wee-lat ka/kap

Two glasses of lemonade: Nam ma-naw song gkew ka/kap (literally: lemonade two glasses please)

Bill: Chek bill (sometimes sounds like: “Chek-bin”)

23