fo TUSCANY’S r only uyi September 2018 n GRAPEVIN .50when ... · Artisans in Lucca 10 The Year 742, The Volto Santo Comes to Lucca 5 Book Review: Il duello 9 Diana the Mountain

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Contents

3Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine September 2018

Luminarprint S.r.l. Via Gramsci, 11 Fornacette di Calcinaia - Pisa

cell 392 0399800 - 347 [email protected]

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o f f se t & d ig i t a l p r i n t i ng

Direttore Responsabile

Giuseppe Brandani

Editor

Norma Jean Bishop

Administration

Silvano Simi

Contributors

Helen Askham

Anna Benedetto

Norma Jean Bishop

Michael Boyd

Chiara Calabrese

David Collins

Judith Edwards

LustrodaLucca

Sue Perry

Myra Saraev

Jenny Schutz

Marketing/Distribution

Claudia Casoli

Diana Gatti

Nicola Girolami

Silvano Simi

2018September

Art & Beauty

Traditions & History

Excursions

Food & Drink

Practical

Gardens

Events of the Month

Bilingual CrosswordProperties for SaleProfessionals

Cartasia 6Artisans in Lucca 10

The Year 742, The Volto Santo Comes to Lucca 5Book Review: Il duello 9Diana the Mountain Huntress 24

Buccellato 23

Buying & Restoring in Tuscany, Book Launch 4Readership Survey 4

Murabilia 8

25

11-18

Markets, Venues, What's On: Music, Art & Exhibitions, Traditions, Sports, Children, Cinema, Conferences

Enchanting Elba 20

19

22, 23, 26

27

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Letters

Cover:

Musical Reflections (Lucca)

by Thomas S. England

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Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine September 20182

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run to call their friends and family who are at wagon pulled by oxen passes along work in the fields and are uninformed about the simple byways, white with dust this sensational happening.and marble fragments, alongside AA Pontremoli, Ceretoli, Dobbiana, Bagnone, the river Lucido. These roads lead Fivizzano, Regnana, Giuncugnano … each from the lands of Lunae by way of the village receives the testimony of the existence Garfagnana mountains to the swampy Lucca of Jesus, carved from cedar by Nicodemus and plain. The carriage, though poor and simple, is by the angels who lowered Christ from the very different from those made in these valleys,

cross. According to the Scriptures , Nicodemus and Joseph were appearing both modern and primitive, maybe because of its heavy the first to receive the body and the blood, the Chalice itself.iron-ringed wheels, the work of talented smithies, or for the wooden

Each village is given a reliquary, a piece of cloth, a bit of seat, similar to ebony, covered by iron-studded leather.wood, a miniature of the statue, a symbol of veneration for those It is carrying a precious and ancient load, which seems to have who come in the future.arrived from the East, belonging to a man who was present at the

The reliquary is added to or substitutes for the cult objects worst crime ever committed. The wooden statue – because this present in the church: the foundation stones, the vestments, the load was in fact a statue – has been travelling for more than seven painted and sculpted representations. These signify that only a hundred years, crossing Persia, Antioch, Magna Grecia, the lands single belief or way exists, esiste un solo corso.of Alba (home of the Slavic gypsies), then France, and from there

From the mountain watershed, after leaving the Lunae valley heading towards the Caput Mundi, Rome. It chooses to pause in route, the group descends into the Garfagnana and intermediary the bishopric of Lunae, to pay homage to a great ancient valleys: Castelnuovo with its fortresses, beautiful and mysterious civilization.Barga, Mozzano and its river, Decimo, Ottavo, Sesto, and finally, Some say it has arrived by sea, having crossed the crossing the Auser river at the Moriano ford, to Holy Lucca itself.Mediterranean and avoided the pirate attacks and naval flotillas

Having passed the amphitheatre, the carriage arrives at the that preside over this closed and shallow sea.city walls to the West. The citizens and lords coming to the market In the nearby and friendly Republic of Lucca, an important take the time to approach the carriage bearing the Bishop's autonomous religious and commercial capital, Giovanni, its first escutcheon, paying scarce attention to the less-than-noble vehicle. Bishop, is alerted about this grandiose occurrence in a dream. So They are still unaware of the immense treasure that is being he travels to the Apuane valley to carry out the necessary brought to them.preparations for this miraculously created icon. The two

Next, the cargo is uncovered and unloaded from the carriage. bishoprics are connected like two stars in heaven: Lun and Luk, The statue's enveloping carpets and embroideries are removed, to moon and light, moon and sun.triumphantly reveal it to the Lucca people, who herald it.It is not purely casual that the crescent shape of Luni's gulf

Most of these people are covered only by rags, but they intend honors the moon and Diana, while the Lucca plain lies in a to honor the carved Crucifix in their own way, with a gift: freshly-triangular valley between mountains that, free of any impediment, gathered fruit, a woven basket, silk washed in the Fossi.look toward the sun rising in the East.

Others have come with a cup of water, eggs hatched that same The carriage finally leaves Lunae, leaving behind only one of morning, or rosary beads, confident that these will be blessed.the many reliquaries that it contains. This is simply blood, the

The main altar of Frediano Church, quickly cleared of other blood of the Body, which will then be put into a silver ampule to be objects, welcomes the Crucifix. The guardians at the western gate venerated and preserved over the centuries. and the faithful who gather here pass the night with mystical An identical ampule is in the brocade purse on the seat of the gratification, awakening the next morning before dawn. Before carriage where His Eminence sits. Together with the Crucifix, this going to their fields and farm animals, they want to again see the will be brought to the church in Lucca named for Frediano, the sculpted Holy Face. They want to enjoy the blessing of their illuminated saint who was both bishop and engineer, reclaiming children, their fields, their animals.the Lucca flood-land and building 28 parish churches.

In stupor mixed with shock, they find that Christ is no longer The carriage now passes through the Roman roads alongside a in his place. The Bishop, who slept overnight in the canonical stream known as Lucido per non intorbidir mai e che produce apartments, is called by a chief of the guards, who while crying is squisitissime trote (because it never gets muddy and produces also trembling for this event, imagining what his punishment will exquisite trout).be for the tragic disappearance.Each town along the banks of this fresh stream has a mill for

At the same time, a nobleman comes to see the Bishop and is grinding chestnuts and grain.allowed to enter. The Bishop, pale and bathed in sweat, turns to Each town in this valley has a fortification, bridges, listen to him, understanding only four words: Crux – est – ecclesia foundation stones, and churches.– Giovanni.Even though the Roman domination changed their

After its disappearance from San Frediano, the Crucifix appearance, and the successive conversion to Christianity reappears in front of the Cathedral of San Giovanni and Reparata: changed their religion, the Lunae and Apuane peoples have the city is saved.maintained their own culture and tradition, the Lunae and Apuane

– by LustrodaLucca at www.justinlucca.it peoples maintain their own culture and tradition, which Giovanni (tr. by Grapevine)calls pagan or profane because it celebrates the earth, the water,

See the illustrations by LustrodaLucca at Google the mountains, the village heroes, the harvests, and the hunt.At each village the carriage makes a stop, the wooden statue is

(Ed. note: The present-day Cathedral of San Martino had not exhibited and praised by the Bishop's spokesman in the broad yet been built. San Giovanni e Reparata Church is the site of open spaces in front of the humble churches. The people gather,

concerts held by Puccinielasualucca.)make the sign of the Cross, attempt in vain to touch the statue, and

The Year 742

An imaginary text inspired by the legend written by Leobinus

(died 557 d.c.) regarding the Volto Santo’s arrival in Lucca

5Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine September 2018Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine September 2018 4

Tuscany’s Grapevine Magazine by Grapevine Editions

Registered office: Via Guinigi, 22 - Lucca 55100. Visit us at Via dell’Angelo Custode 3A. Mobile +39 333 8617962 - [email protected] - www.luccagrapevine.com P. IVA 02416230460 - C.F. BSHNMJ48C65Z404D. Iscrizione CCIAA - LU 223932. Registrazione Tribunale di Lucca n° 4, 23 Feb. 2016. © Tuscany’s Grapevine Magazine © What’s On In & Around.

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EditorialDear Readers and Friends,

Bentornati dai giorni spensierati! As we come to the end of this hot season, September brings the promise of fresh fall days, with school openings, harvests, and gatherings such as September Lucchese.

Home and hearth are now more inviting, as we want to load our tables with mushrooms, grapes, olives, and other fruits of Mother Earth. For many of us who have chosen to live in Tuscany permanently, it is this closeness to nature and tradition that appeals so strongly. Even if it's too hot in summer and too cold in winter, we can take comfort knowing that we are not exaggerating with electricity, air conditioning, or heating, as in so many more “modern” countries. Looking at longevity statistics for the nations of the world, I find Italy in 10th place among over 200 nations. Is the wine? Is it the Mediterranean diet? The sea air? Family values? Biking and walking and tending the orchard? Take your choice! All in all, living in Italy is a privilege.

Peeking inside the Grapevine pages this month, you will find articles about Murabilia garden festival, Cartasia paper art festival, Lucca's legend of the Volto Santo, and the September Lucchese festivities, which attract Lucca emigrants from near and far (especially this year, on the 50th anniversary of Lucchesi nel Mondo). There are recipes to try, such as the famous buccellato, or maybe just to recall (frogs' legs). A book review by Chiara Calabrese informs us of Bagni di Lucca's past, while the book launch of David Collins' Buying & Restoring in Tuscany (Part 2) will bring time-honoured traditions to our attention.

If you haven't had enough vacation time yet, there's still good weather, so consider taking the boat to Elba, as Sue suggests with her beautiful photographs (pages 20-21). I hope you won't find too much plastic floating in the sea, and I thank those who sent letters (see these on page 25) in response to my comments last month.

To help Grapevine grow and thrive, will you please participate in the readership survey described below?

With thanks and warm wishes, Norma

Book Launch

We are proud to present

David Collins’ latest book, packed with lots of

new material containing valuable tips and advice.

Join us to meet the author and share an apertivo on

Saturday 8 September at 5 pm

at LuccaLibri in viale Regina Margherita

(near the train station, outside Porta San Pietro, Lucca).

David’s book is also available on Kindle.

Take our brief (5 minute) , easy survey and be part of the growth.

If we have your email (or if you send it to: [email protected]) ,

you will receive an invitation.

Otherwise , for the online survey , visit:

https://bit.ly/2MTD7il

Thank you for your help.

— Norma and the team

The results of the survey will be private and your email will not be shared.

Growing the GrapevineWe Want to Hear from You


imagine its beauty serpenting overhead near a huge red anthropomorphic figure also suspended from overhead beams. And what was that black ash-like pile of paper embroidery, entitled “The Warmth of Paper”? The China Academy of Art has re-created an ancient tradition, which is difficult to fully explain without reference to the descriptive bilingual panel nearby. So many talented artists have come from various parts of the world, yet they fit together harmoniously!

At the Palazzo Ducale, smaller works are on display in elegant rooms, and in their juxtaposition we can sense a certain irony. For example, cutouts of a donkey and a kick-boxing girl stand in front of an elegant fresco from the Bonaparte era. Much food for thought….

The Biennale's general director is Emiliano Galigani, and the exhibits have been curated by Nicolas Bertoux and Giacomo Pecchia. The Fondazione Cassa di Risparmio di Lucca deserves compliments for their support of this year's ambitious Biennale of Paper Sculpture, on display until the end of September.

– by Norma Jean Bishop

www.luccabiennale.it

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Carmine Market

Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine September 2018 6

artasia opened last month with a flurry of energy as artists from around the CC world, with China as this

year’s special guest, came to create their cardboard artistry, all inspired by the theme “Chaos and Silence”. They began working at the ex-Cavallerizza (former royal stables), then their creations were moved to various squares, to the ex-Carmine Market, and Palazzo Ducale. Tongji (Shanghai) University students erected their geodesic model in the Piazzale San Donato near the ex-Cavallerizza (photo on page 15).

I talked with James Lake, “Paperman”, whose self-portrayal sits in front of San Frediano Church. Visitors, especially children, look at this with admiration and curiosity. James lost huge coin has fallen like a guillotine onto a his leg at age 16 due to cancer. Father of three, piano, breaking it in two. The weight of money he makes paper sculptures in his garage at on the arts can only be destructive. "We don't home in Exeter (Devon), and uses art to help just break pianos,” they told me, though they the community, intervening in schools to teach do spend a lot of time making musical acceptance and integration of those who are instruments from cardboard. different from others. Why giraffes? I asked. At the Loggia in Piazza San Michele, a When he was invited to Lucca's Cartasia, crouching woman bears the weight of James was making little giraffe models for buildings on her back. This may have extra Scout badges. Besides this practical point, he significance since the Genoa highway bridge noted that giraffes are in danger of extinction collapsed in August. and are lovely creatures in their own right. His At Piazza Guidiccioni, an enormous self-portrait surrounded by his tools and teenaged girl curls in on herself. Her body is giraffes is eloquent and tranquil. made entirely of small packages, showing we

I then met the DOSSHAUS couple Zoey are composed of many and varying elements. Taylor and David Connelly, who have an art I was enthused by the creative use of the studio near Los Angeles where they also Carmine Marketplace exhibition space. engage in performance art. Their piece, now in Having previously seen the white origami in Piazza Cittadella, is “The Path of Paradox”. A progress at the ex-Cavallerizza, I couldn't

ex-C

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zaCartasia, The Biennale of Cardboard Sculpture

Book Review

Our cemetery is just the spot which a heart-stricken mourner in July 2018 by Il Seme Bianco, would select for the last earthly home of a cherished object. The Roma. A contributor to various sublime stillness of the air is unbroken save by the gentle river magazines and a literary essay-murmuring at its base, while a majestic mountain, rising behind ist, Anna Lisa Del Carlo has a like a merciful and compassionate Providence, folds with extended special interest in biography as arms, in its mantle of forest, the young and suppliant cemetery, literary genre, and has written a sueing for shelter and protection at its feet. Even day's too garish short story for a collection dedi-eye is, in pity, veiled with verdure from the sacred inclosure. An cated to women. Il duello will avenue of cypresses conducts the funeral train by a gentle ascent to be presented at Villa Bottini, on the little chapel where the last obsequies are performed. Time will 26 September at 6 p.m., within improve the hallowed spot in beauty as in interest. the context of Questione di Stili, the series of events organized in

Lucca by the Associazione Laboratorio Brunier in September. The hese lines, taken from Letters from the bye-ways of Italy presentation will be followed by a concert featuring arias by by Elizabeth Stisted, refer to the Anglican Cemetery in Rossini, on the occasion of the 150th anniversary of the com-Bagni di Lucca. After long and difficult negotiations, poser's death.TTHenry and Elizabeth Stisted had obtained permission In Del Carlo's novel, the challenge takes place during a party

from Duke Carlo Lodovico and the Archbishop of Lucca to build organised by Henry and Elizabeth Stisted to sponsor the creation of an Anglican Church and Cemetery for the British community the Anglican cemetery. However, the duel has a different outcome, living in Bagni di Lucca at the time. The Church was opened in leading to a mysterious murder. The title itself has more to do with 1840 and the cemetery in 1842. The book by Mrs. Stisted, a verbal confrontation among the several protagonists, occuring at published in London in 1845, contains the letters she wrote from the end of the novel and serving to untangle the various threads on Italy to her friends. The aim of the publication was to settle the debt which the plot is built, rather than to an actual fencing duel. Despite owed for the construction of the cemetery and church through the the fictional variations in the development of the events, financial support of the list of subscribers that we find at the verisimilitude is what characterizes this novel. The protagonists, beginning of the book, among them Queen Victoria. including Lieutenant Bedini who investigates on the murder, are

It was around Mr. and Mrs. Stisted that the life of the English not fictional, with the exception of Aunt Sarah and the Carabinieri community in Bagni di Lucca revolved. Elizabeth, in particular, under Bedini’s command. The backdrop is authentic and well was the center of cultural and mundane life there, with her parties, reconstructed, as are the personalities and personal histories of all balls, musical evenings and charity events. However, an advocate the characters. Only Charles Colette, though he really took part in of morality, in her letters she makes no mention of the fattaccio, a the events, is constructed in a more fictional way. On the whole, foul deed which had occurred within the English community in Anna Lisa Del Carlo, thanks to her knowledge of the period, has September 1941. At a ball organized by the English Club, a tried to render both the context and the people as close as possible skirmish between the fascinating fraud William Crook, a protégé to how they actually were. To this end, the protagonists’ lives of the Duke Carlo Ludovico, and the not-so-attractive banker mingle with those of historical figures – for example, Duke Carlo Edward Plander, resulted in a challenge to a duel. Apparently, it Lodovico, whose restless temperament and difficult relationship was triggered by the interest both men had in the charming English with his wife Maria Theresa of Savoy are portrayed.widow Margaret Newton but, presumably, it was fuelled by a more Il duello is a relatively short novel, therefore, it is excellent complex economic and political rivalry between the two reading for those who want to practice their Italian and learn gentlemen. At dawn, William Crook lost his life in the duel. something more about the historical connection between the English

There is a lot here to inspire fictional romance and, perhaps, community and the Lucchese territory.intrigue. It is in fact from this story that Anna Lisa Del Carlo has drawn inspiration for her first novel, Il duello (the duel), published – by Chiara Calabrese

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MMurabilia is the

Lucca flower fair that takes place

each autumn on the urban walls. The dates this year are 7-8-9 September and the theme is Japan. If you are shopping for plants to adorn your apartment, this is an occasion not to be missed. Lucca's other important plant fair, VerdeMura, takes place in early April. In this way you can refresh your greenery at least twice a year!

Aside from hundreds of stands (225 this year) dedicated to flowers, plants, and accessories, there will be numerous international experts and presentations. For example, one event is entitled Chrysanthemums, cherries, and peonies in Japanese prints. Another is Fuukiran: orchids of the Samurai. In the greenhouses of the Botanical Garden, the Florentine artist Simonetta Occhipinti will present her paintings of citrus fruits, entitled Pomi d'Oro. (Pomi d'Oro, or golden apples, figure in the classical story about the origin of the Trojan War in Paris' choice of the beautiful Helen.)

The most pleasant approach to Murabilia is probably to combine the botanical experience with a pleasant stroll around the walls. So much to discover in only a few days!

– www.murabilia.com


Murabilia

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photos: 1,3,4 by Sue Perry2,5 by Thomas S. England

WHAT’S ONWHAT’S ON IN & AROUNDIN & AROUND

GRAPEVINE

September 2018 pull-

out events calendar

ITALIAN CULTURAL SOCIETYTHE BEST SMALL GROUP TOURS TO ITALY

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Please visit our website for

a detailed list of the small group tours planned for 2019.

Email us for special interest and customized tours to any region of Italy.

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AND THIS MONTH’s special markets/fairs: Borgo Giannotti on 14/16/21/23/29 September

Piazza San Michele, Palazzo Pretorio, Piazza Napoleone, all day, every day this month.

General markets Books and prints Arts & Craft

Lucca, S. Francesco. fruits/vegetables Wed 4-7pm Lucca, Corte del Biancone Daily Lucca, Piazza San Giusto last Sat/Sunday

Marina di Pietrasanta Wednesday afternoonsLucca, near the fairground Wed & Sat a.m.Antiques Castelnuovo Garfagnana 1st weekend of the monthB. Giannotti, Foro Boario Sat a.m.Lucca 3rd Sat/Sunday Pieve Fosciana last SundayS. Maria a Colle Thurs a.m. Altopascio 2nd Sunday

Ponte a Moriano Tues a.m. Montecarlo 2nd Sunday Plants and flowersForte dei Marmi 1st Sat/Sunday Lucca, Corso Garibaldi Friday morningsS. Maria del Giudice Mon a.m.Pietrasanta 1st Sunday Pietrasanta 3rd SundayPietrasanta Thurs a.m.Barga 2nd Sunday

Marina di Pietrasanta Sat a.m.Markets in Florence (the biggest)Viareggio 4th Sat/Sunday

Tonfano Sat a.m. Piazza San Lorenzo 7-2 daily, 7-5 Sat, closed SundaysBientina 4th Sat/SundayCastelnuovo Garfagnana Thurs a.m. Pescia 4th Sunday Parco delle Cascine Tuesdays 7am to 2pmPescia Sat a.m. Querceta Saturday mornings Piazza dei Ciompi Flea Market 9am to 7.30pm daily

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WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND

T h e all-new

L u c c a A r t i g i a n a ,

a display of talented local artisans offering

opportunities for learning and sharing, is now in its third

edition. This year local producers will meet the public at a new location, the Real

Collegio behind San Frediano Church in the Centro Storico. LuccArtigiana is an initiative of the Fondazione

Banca del Monte di Lucca, together with Confartigianato, CNA Lucca, the Town of Lucca, Fondazione Cassa di

Risparmio, Osservatorio mestieri d’arte di Firenze, and other territorial entities. The event is also being promoted during the

September Lucchese celebrations by the Associazione Lucchesi nel Mondo, now in their 50th year.This beautiful showcase and marketplace is an important event, allowing us to

appreciate the richness of traditional creations, which are virtually DOCG (denominazione origine controllato e garantito), and providing workshops and conferences for those involved in this sector. E-commerce and the future of artisan bottegas will be among the subjects for discussion by experts in these areas. The new location will offer more space for both artists and public.

Entrance is free.

FB page @luccartigianaWebsite: www.fondazionebmluccaeventi.it

Information: 0583 464062 (office of the Fondazione)

Sir

iano P

ieri

ni

More

lli

Ristorante

In the heart of Lucca's Centro Storico, between Piazza San Francesco and Piazza Anfiteatro, you will find the restaurant Ammodonostro. A new, young, friendly eating place where it will be our pleasure to

create and offer you dishes of the highest quality. At lunchtime, there are daily specialities - simple and quick - in addition to the menu. Bookings welcomed.

This restaurant can accommodate individuals on gluten free diets

Via della Fratta 22, 55100 ~ Lucca tel 0583/953828 Open 11.30am-10pm - Closed Tuesday

www.ristoranteammodonostro.it - [email protected]

Artisans in

Lucca


The listings published by Grapevine are taken from reliable sources and reproduced in good faith.

However, to avoid disappointment, readers are advised to check information

before setting off.

Puccinielasualucca for its summer season (31 March to 31 October)

offers daily concerts at the Church of San Giovanni at 7pm.

Tickets are sold at the door, or call 340 8106042.

www.puccinielasualucca.com - [email protected]

Program: Mondays Puccini & Mozart, Tuesdays Puccini’s Women, Wednesdays Italian Opera Recital, Thursdays Puccini & Verdi, Fridays Puccini Opera Recital, Saturdays A Night at the Opera,

Sundays Puccini & the Neapolitan Song Tradition

17Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine September 2018 WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND

276pm, Lucca, Villa Bottini, Via Elisa. Re-creatio

by Dimitri Grechi Espinosa (sax) with Maria Bruni (soprano). Also, Oreb, Il Suono e la

Montagna (sax solo). Musical recital by Laboratorio Brunier.

286pm, Lucca, S. Caterina Church. Dialogues between Music & Art.

www.concertuslucensis.it

8.30pm, Lucca, Caffè della Mura, dinner with jazz. Notte Noir Quartet. Circolo Lucca Jazz.

9pm, Lucca, Palazzo Pfanner garden. Boccherini & FLAM Chamber Music Festival. www.orchestraluigiboccherini.it

9pm, Lucca, S. Caterina Church. Classical music concert directed by Tatiana Nikoloeva.

299pm, Lucca Jazz Donna concert. www.luccajazzdonna.it

Lucca, Puccini Birthplace Museum, Piazza Cittadella. Andante ... ma con brio. Musical guided visit with Consorzio Turislucca in collaboration with Teatro del Giglio.

136pm, Lucca, San Micheletto, Via Elisa. Musical

encounter organized by the Circolo del Jazz.

www.lucchesinelmondo.it

6Today is the deadline for signing up for the

Teatro del Giglio season. See information

below (Coming Up).

6pm, Lucca, Piazza Cittadella.Puccini

Postcards. Madama Butterfly.

148pm, Lucca, Foro Boario. September Blues.

www.luccabluesfestival.wordpress.com9pm, Lucca, Teatro del Giglio. Puccini Postcards. Suor Angelica,

Gianni Schicchi in collaboration with Puccini Foundation & Santa Cecilia chorus. Sponsored by Lucchesi nel Mondo.9pm, Lucca, Palazzo Pfanner garden. Boccherini & FLAM Chamber Music Festival. www.orchestraluigiboccherini.it9.15pm, Lucca, S. Giovanni e Reparata Church, Piazza S. Giovanni. Concert dedicated to Claudia Cardinale, including music from Fitzcaraldo. Puccinielasualucca. Free admission for Lucca residents.Montecatini Terme (Pistoia), Teatro Verdi. Uto Ughi. Info: teatroverdimontecatini.it

78.30pm, Lucca, Caffè delle Mura, on the Walls. Gabriel Bechini

Quartet. Circolo Lucca Jazz.

9.15pm, Lucca, Baluardo San Paolino. The Roaring 20s in the

Weimar Republic. Valentina Ciardelli (bass), Pierpaolo Romani (clarinet), Andrea Pennati (guitar). Organized by Animando.


9.15pm, Lucca, Sant’Andrea Church. Lucca Chamber Music Festival. L’Arte della Trascrizione. Trio Mirò performing Handel.

associazioneelisabacciocchi.com

209pm, Lucca,

Suffragio Auditorium. Boccherini Festival. The

Iberia Quartet performs music by Boccherini, Puccini, & Mendelssohn.

9.15pm, Lucca Walls, Baluardo San Paolino. Piero Ciampi in jazz. Circolo Lucca Jazz.

Friday Thu

216pm, Lucca, S. Caterina Church. Dialogues between Music &

Art. www.concertuslucensis.it

8.30pm, Lucca, Caffè della Mura, dinner with jazz. Il Chorotime

Quartet. Circolo Lucca Jazz.


229.15am, Lucca, Sant’Andrea Church. Chamber Music Festival. Italian Idylls, songs & verses

from Rollo to D’Annunzio.

156pm, Lucca, Piazza San Michele. Gran Gala

della Canzone Napoletano & Operetta. Maria Bruno, Kentaro Kitaya, G. Puccini Philharmonic Orchestra. Organized by Laboratorio Brunier.

9.15pm, Lucca, Baluardo San Regolo, under the walls. Faber per Tenco, recital of Andrè & Tenco, M° Silvano Pieruccini. Organized by Animando.

Saturday

Coming UpTeatro del Giglio opera season: 19 & 21 October, Suor Angelica & Gianni Schicchi. 18 & 20 January, Otello. 22 & 24 February, Lucia di Lammermoor. 16 & 17 March, La bohème. New subscriptions can be made from 25 August to 6 September. The box office is open Wednesdays to Saturdays 10.30am to 1pm & 3 to 6pm.

Lucca Animando (Il Settecento Musicale a Lucca) Concert: 7 Oct. (at Santa Maria Dei Servi Church, Lucca) www.animandolucca.it

Lucca Jazz Donna, concerts 5,6,12,13,21 Oct.

Lu

igi B

occh

erin

i

To locate the venues,

see the map & list on page 13.

Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine September 2018 12 WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND

309am, Lucca, Suffragio Auditorium. Open Gold Concert by Bruno Canino (piano), Paolo Ardinghi (violin) & Andrea Nannoni (cello) with the Boccherini Orchestra performing Egmont by Beethoven.www.boccherini.it or tel. 0583 464104


.

99pm, Lucca, Suffragio Auditorium. Boccherini Festival, 3rd edition. Boccherini Symphonies

performed by Luca Celoni & Demetrio Comuzzi. www.boccherini.it

169.15pm, Lucca Walls, Baluardo San Paolino. Italian Swing &

beyond. CLI group. Circolo Lucca Jazz.

9.15pm, Borgo a Mozzano. San Francesco Church. Petite

Messe Solennelle by Rossini. Il Cerchio delle Muse.

6pm, Lucca, Suffragio Auditorium. Boccherini Festival, 3rd

edition. Boccherini Symphonies & Gemignani Concerto

Grosso Op. 3, performed by the Boccherini Orchestra directed by GianPaolo Mazzoli. www.boccherini.it

176pm, Lucca, San Fran-cesco Church. Concert of choruses directed by M° Gianfranco Cosmi. 9pm, Lucca, Suffragio Auditorium. Boccherini Festival, . Boccherini Cello Ensemble performing www.boccherini.it

18 19

249pm, Lucca, Suffragio

Auditorium. Boccherini Gold. Masterclass

students concert with

Prof.essa Laura

Niculescu.

266pm, Lucca, Villa Bottini, Via Elisa. Rossini’s Women. Musical recital by Laboratorio Brunier: Maria Bruno & Claudia Conti. Preceeded by book presentation Il duello by Anna Lisa Del Carlo (see article page 9).

129.15pm, Lucca, Boccherini Auditorium. Winners of the Pierluigi Guidi scholarship Greta Doveri (soprano), Chiara Foti (flute), & Monica Maldonado (guitar).

10

9 pm, Castelvecchio Pascoli, Giovanni Pascoli Museum-Home. Lucchesi

nel Mondo concert.

11

49pm, Lucca, Boccherini Auditorium. Isabel Trio.

1 (Saturday)

2

237pm, Lucca, Cinema Centrale, Piazza Cittadella. Documentary film Stones in Lucca. After their 2017 Summer Festival concert. https://stonesinlucca.odumovies.com



Wed Mon Tues Sunday

25Lucca Ring Festival, concerts & dance events at ex-Cavallerizza, Teatro S.Girolamo, City Walls. www.aldesweb.org6pm, Lucca, Villa Bottini. Ottavia e le Altre. Reading with musical accompaniment by Stili Diversi.

Organized by Lab. Brunier.9am, Lucca, Piazza del Suffragio Auditorium. Open Gold Concert by Paolo Taballione (flute) with music by Bach, Taballione, Mendelssohn, Poulenc, & Dutilleux. www.boccherini.it

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Music & TheatreSeptember 2018

309am, Lucca, Suffragio Auditorium. Open Gold Concert by Bruno Canino (piano), Paolo Ardinghi (violin) & Andrea Nannoni (cello) with the Boccherini Orchestra performing Egmont by Beethoven.www.boccherini.it or tel. 0583 464104.


Tonfano

Florence 90km

Prato

Capannori

San Gennaro

Viareggio32km

Massa Carrara

Forte dei Marmi

Pietrasanta

Seravezza

Camaiore

Abetone

Barga

Ponte a Moriano

Castelnuovo Garfagnana

Bagni di Lucca26km

AAA

N

O

B

K

C

E

Q1,Q2

S

R

Q3,Q4,Q5

P

G U,V,VVI1

I2J1

J2

J3

KK

Via S. PaolinoVia S. Croce Via Elisa

Via F

illung

o

Montecarlo 20km

Porcari14km

Tassignano

Torre del Lago

Vecchiano

PISA 26km Vorno

DF

LT

SS W,X,Y,YY,Z1,Z2,Z3,Z4

H1

M1M2

M3

M4

H2

Capannori

San Giuliano Terme

Lucca: Around Lucca: S. Seravezza, Palazzo Mediceo, Viale L.

L. Vorno: Tenuta dello Scompiglio. Via di Vorno Amadei 230. Every day 5pm to midnight, also A. San Francesco Church Complex. 67. www.delloscompiglio.org Sat-Sun 10.30am to 12.30pm (noon). 0584 AA. ex Casa del Boia.

M1. Montecarlo: Pasquinelli Gallery, Via Roma. 757443.B. Lu.C.C.A. Museum of Contemporary Art, Via

M2. Porcari, Fondazione Lazzareschi. SS. Torre del Lago. Art for the Puccini Festival della Fratta 36. www.luccamuseum.com

M3. Tassignano, Artemisia Cultural Center & (www.puccinifestival.it). Puccini Theatre Foyer.C. MUST, Urban Museum of Lucca, Palazzo Library, via dell’Aeroporto 10. 0583 936427.

Guinigi, Via Guinigi 29. History, archaeology, M4. San Gennaro, Palazzo Bocella, Via Celli 52. Pisa:

photography. N. Ponte a Serraglio: Grapevine Cultural Assoc. T1. Palazzo Blu, www.palazzoblu.it La Rondine Gallery, Via V. Emanuele. D1. Fondazione Banca del Monte, Pza San T2. Piazza dei Miracoli. www.opapisa.it

O. Ponte a MorianoMartino 12. www.fondazionebancadelmonte.it T3. SMS Centro Espositivo Museale. Via S. Barga:

D2. Banca del Monte, Piazza San Martino. 0583 Michele degli Scalzi 176. 050 544767. P1. Town Hall Gallery, Via di Borgo 18.

T4. Graphics Museum, Palazzo Lanfranchi 450278.P2. Mount Tabor Ecumenical Center, Via delle Lugarno G. Galileo. 050 2216060. E. Fondazione Ragghianti, San. Micheletto. 0583

Mura 12. www.mounttabor.it.T5. San Giuliano Terme, Roncioni Villa. 467205.

P3. Villa Libano, Via del Sasso, 7. Nuovo Circolo F. Cathedral Museum, Pza Antelminelli. 0583 dei Differenti. Art exhibitions with live music.

Prato:490530, [email protected], www.facebook.com/circolodifferenti.

U. Palazzo Pretorio. P4. Fondazione Ricci, Via Roma 20.www.museocattedrale.lucca.it

www.palazzopretorio.prato.itVersilia:G. Villa Bottini, Via Elisa 9.

V. Textile Museum. Via S. Chiara. Q1. Pietrasanta. Sant’Agostino Museum, Pza

H1. Palazzo Ducale, Pza. Napoleone. www.museodeltessuto.itDuomo. 0584 795268.

H2. Palazzo Mansi, Via Galli Tassi 43. tel. 0583 V V. Teatro Metastasio. Via B. Cairoli 59.Q2. La Meridiana Gallery, Via Barsanti 29.

55570 www.luccamuseinazionali.itQ3. Viareggio. Mercurio Arte Contemporanea 43.

Florence:I1. Santa Giulia Church, Pza del Suffragio. Corso Garibaldi 116.W. Palazzo Strozzi. www.palazzostrozzi.orgI2. San Cristoforo Church, Via Fillungo. Q4. Viareggio. L. Viani Gallery of Modern & X. Accademia Gallery. Via Ricasoli 58/60.

J1. State Archives, Piazza Guidiccioni. Contemporary Art. 0584 976510, www.gamc.itwww.unannodarte.itQ5. Viareggio. Villa Paolina, Via Machiavelli. J2. State Archives, Piazza Macelli.

Y. Palatina Gallery. www.unannodarte.itQ6. Viareggio. Villa Argentina, Via Fratti 44 (ang. New exhibition space. YY. Villa Bardini, Costa San Giorgio 2. Via Vespucci).

J3. Domus Romana archaeological site. Via C. Z1. Argenti Museum. www.unannodarte.itForte dei Marmi:

Battisti 15. 0583 050060. Tues & Thurs Z2. Palazzo Medici Riccardi. R1. Villa Bertelli, Viale G. Mazzini 200, 0584

10am to 5pm www.domusromana.it Z3. Uffizi. www.unannodarte.it280292, www.villabertelli.it K. Uscher Gallery, Via della Zecca 15. Z4. Gucci Museum. Piazza della Signoria 10. R2. Satire Museum, Pza Garibaldi 1. Daily 5pm KK. Real Collegio, Pza del Collegio 13. www.guccimuseo.comto midnight.


Art Exhibition Venues from A to Z


Porcari

Capannori

Colle di Compito & Pieve di Compito

Viareggio32km

Massa Carrara

Forte dei Marmi

Pietrasanta

Sant’Anna di Stazzema

Camaiore

Corsanico (Massarosa)

Tonfano

Torre del Lago

San Rossore Park

PISA26km

Vorno

Gattaiola

San Giuliano Terme

Abetone

Celle dei Puccini(Pescaglia)

Benabbio

Villa Basilica

Pieve a Elici

Tofori

Ponte aMoriano

Camigliano

Barga

Castelnuovo Garfagnana

Bagni di Lucca26km

Lucca: Outside Lucca: 34. Pisa, Teatro Verdi, Via Palestro 40. 050 94111, www.teatrodipisa.pi.it

20. Sinfonia Music Association, Via N. Sauro, 527 35. Pisa, Scuola Normale Concerts. www.sns.it, 1. Lucca Summer Festival, Pza Napoleone. 21. Montecarlo, Teatro dei Rassicurati 050 941111 or 050 94118836.0584 46477 www.ticketone.it22. Porcari: Auditorium Vincenzo Da Massa 36. Pisa, Music under the Tower (OPA). 2a/b. San Giovanni and Dei Servi Churches.

Carrara & Piazza Felice Orsi www.opapisa.it See page17.www.puccinielasualucca.com 23. Capannori, Artè, Via Carlo Piaggia. 37. Florence, Maggio Musicale Fiorentino. www. sagramusicalelucchese.com24. Tenuta dello Scompiglio, Via di Vorno 67, www.operadifirenze.it3. Lucca Opera Festival, Oratorio Angelo

Vorno. 0583 971125, 38. Florence, Teatro Verdi, Via Ghibellina 99. Custode, Via degli Angeli Custodi. www.delloscompiglio.org www.teatroverdionline.itwww.iconcertidegliangelicustode.com

25. Ponte a Moriano 39. Florence, Santo Spirito, Piazza Santo Spirito4. Fond. Ragghianti, San Micheletto, AML, a. Teatro I. Nieri, Piazza Cesare Battisti, www.accademiadelispiritati.orgLucca In Musica. 0583 469960, 0583 465320. 40. S. Anna di Stazzema Peace Organ Festival, www.associazionemusicalelucchese.itb. Accademia Montegral, Convento 0584 772025, www.santannadistazzema.org5a. Teatro del Giglio, Pza Giglio. 0583 465320, dell'Angelo, 0583 406300. 41. Tonfano, Marina di Pietrasanta, Teatro Sant’closed Mondays and Sundays,

26. Celle dei Puccini, Pescaglia. Puccini Antonio, Via Verdi, 335543579, 3471305764.www.teatrodelgiglo.comMuseum. 42. Torre del Lago Puccini, Festival Pucciniano.

5b. Teatro San Girolamo, 27. Altopascio. Via Francigena Festival, 0584 359322.www.puccinifestival.it

www.teatrodelgiglio.comGemignani Music School. 43. Pieve a Elici (Massarosa), AML 0583469960,

6. Real Collegio, Piazza del Collegio28. Colle di Compito and Pieve di Compito, www.associazionemusicalelucchese.it

7. Boccherini Institute Auditorium, Pza Del Compitese Culture Centre. 44. Corsanico (Massarosa) Organ Festival.

Suffragio, www.boccherini.it29. Camigliano (Capannori) www.corsanicomusica.it

8. San Francesco Church, Pza San Francesco30. Bagni di Lucca, Teatro Accademico, Via 45. Gattaiola, Villa Rossi

9. San Michele Church, Pza San MicheleRoma. www.prolocobagnidilucca.it/ 46. Pietrasanta, Teatro la Versiliana. Viale Morin

10. San Paolino Church, Via San [email protected] (320 6320032) 16, Marina di Pietrasanta. 0584 265757,

11. San Romano Auditorium 31a. Barga, Villa Libano. Nuovo Circolo dei Complete program www.laversilianafestival.it12. Palazzo Pretorio Loggia, Pza San Michele Differenti. 47. San Giuliano Terme. Villa Roncioni (loc. 13. Santa Maria Corteorlandini Church 31b. Opera Barga. 0583 711068, Pugnano). Costumes & hats. Tuesdays to 14. Piazza Cittadella, Puccin’s birthplace, [email protected], www.operabarga.it Sundays 4pm to 8pm. 050 817900,

museum. 31c. Barga Jazz. 0583 724418, [email protected], www.fondazionecerratell.it15. Botanical Garden concerts, www.bargajazz.it 48. Montecatini Terme, Estate Regina Music

www.ortobotanicodilucca.it, 0583 442160. 31d. Belcanto in Barga. 340 5831419, Festival, at the Terme & Teatro Verdi. Until 4 16. San Martino (Duomo) [email protected] Oct. 0527 78903, www.estateregina.it17. Amphitheatre Jazz, www.belcantoinbarga.com 49. Forte dei Marmi, Villa Bertelli, Viale Mazzini

www.comune.lucca.it/anfiteatrojazz. See 31e. Il Ciocco, Castelvecchio Pascoli. 0583 7691. 200. 0584 787251 www.villabertelli.it article in June Grapevine. 33a. Castelnuovo Garfagnana, IAM Music 50. Prato, Teatro Metastasio, Via B. Cairoli 59.

18. Santa Caterina Church, Via Vittorio Veneto Festival, www.iamitalia.com 51. Badia di Camaiore Organ Festival, 19. Palazzo Ducale, Sala Tobino 33b. Teatro Alfieri, Castelnuovo G., 0583 644185. www.camaioreorganfestival.it

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Via S. PaolinoVia S. Croce Via Elisa

Via Fillu

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Florence 90km

Montecarlo 20km

Montecatini Terme

Altopascio

Prato

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37,38,39


Music & Theatre Venues


Don’t miss the “last days” of exhibits, shown in red on the calendar below.

To locate the venues, see the maps & list on page 16.

Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine September 2018 14 15Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine September 2018WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND

ONGOING EXHIBITIONS: WORTH THE TRIP ...Pisa,

Lucca, Pietrasanta, Val d’Aosta (Bard),Pisa,

Viareggio, Jesolo Lido (VE),

Viareggio, Feltri (Bolzano), Lucca,

Barga,

Lucca,

Ferrara,

Palazzo Blu, Pisa Città della Ceramica. Until 5 November 2018.

Villa Guinigi Museum, Via della Quarquonia. Treasures tracing the history of Matisse. Palazzo Blu, Lorenzo Mattotti, Lucca. In January the Cristo Eucaristico, a polychrome terracotta by Matteo Civitali 7 July to 14 October. €9. www.fortedibard.it.Immagini tra arte, letteratura e musica. (1436-1501), was returned to Lucca by the Italian police & placed in the museum more Until 7 October 2018.

GAMC Museum. Possenti, di segni & Spazio Aquilia 123. than 70 years after it was stolen by the Germans from Santa Maria della Rosa Church di sogni (of signs & of dreams). Until 11 Nov. Tel. Gods, pharoahs, humans. Until 15 September. in February, 1944. The museum is open (summer hours) Tuesdays to Saturdays 0584 581118, www.gamc.it www.mostraegitto.com8.30am to 1.30pm & (for accompanied visits) 3.30pm to 5.30pm. Tel. 0583 496033.

Centro Matteucci per l’Arte Moderna, Via Castello Vescovile. New Feltri Palazzo Mansi Museum. Summer hours: Tuesdays Gabriele D’Annunzio 28. Ghiglia & Modigiliani, Classico & Belluno Diocesan Museum. A complete

to Saturdays 9.30am to 11.30am & 2.30pm to 4.30pm. & Moderno. Until 4 November. Hours: Tuesdays to restoration of the Bishops Palace at the summit Saturdaysd 5.30pm to 10.30pm, Sat/Sun 10am to 1pm & of the Via del Paradise, western quadrant of the

Both of the above museums are closed on Sundays, 5.30pm to 10.30pm. centromatteucciartemoderna.it so-called “Vertical City” & its millenarian holidays & holiday Mondays. architecture. 27 rooms of art, including frescoes

Via di Borgo 28. Oxo Gallery. New space for by Mantegna & others.contemporary art, with works by Fabrizio Da Prato, Roberto Giansanti, Keane, Giorgia Madiai, Fabio Maestrelli, Luigi Palazzo del Diamanti. Courbet & la Natura. 22 Sept. 2018 to 6 Jan. Paolini, Nicola Salotti, Stefano Tommasi. Massimo Salotti 2019. 9am to 7pm daily. €13. Reservations: 0532 244949. at the piano with music by Gurdjieff/De Hartmann. www.palazzodiamanti.it

MuSA (Museum of Sculpture & Architecture).

Lu.C.C.A. Lucca Center of Contemporary Art, Via della Fratta 36. Henri Cartier-Bresson in America 16 June to 11 November. Tuesdays to Sundays 10am to 7pm, closed Mondays. See article in August Grapevine.

25 26

16

LAST DAY:

LAST DAY:

LAST DAY: Lucca, Real Collegio, Piazza del Collegio 13. LuccaArtigiana. 10am to 8pm. See article on page 10. FB page @luccaartigiana

Lucca, Lu.C.C.A. Lucca Center of Contemporary Art, Via della Fratta 36. Massimo Podestà, Tuesdays to Sundays 10am to 7pm, closed Mondays.

Modelle 4.0: il cosmo possibile.

Villa Argentina. Kyklos, Il Tempo Circolare. by Marco Manzella. Hours: Tues to Sat 10am to 1pm, 3pm to 7pm, Sundays 5pm to 8pm. Info: 0584 1647600.

Viareggio,

18 19

27Lucca,

LAST DAY:

Palazzo Ducale, Mercato del Carmine, ex-Cavallerizza & town squares. Cartasia. City-wide paper sculpture event. Indoor exhibits 10am to 7pm daily. See article on pages 6-7. www.luccabiennale.it

20

1110Lucca, LAST DAY: Fondazione

Banca del Monte di Lucca. Cosmic Energy in the

Sculptures of Jimenez Deredia. In town & at Piazza S. Martino 7.

12

23LAST DAY: Lucca, Fondazione Ragghianti, Via San Micheletto 3. Per Sogni e per Chimere, Giacomo Puccini & le Arti Visive

(Puccini & the Visual Arts). See article in June Grapevine.

30LAST DAY: Pietrasanta, Luigi Rosso Cultural Center. Church of Cloister of S. Augustino. Poetica della traduzione by Manolo

Valdès. Hours: Mondays 2pm to 7pm, Tuesdays to Saturdays 9am to 1pm, 2pm to 7pm. Tel. 0584 795500. www.museodeibozzi.it

7654OPENING:

Lucca, Casermetta S. Frediano on the walls. Artists for the

Constitution.

Collective exhibit. Until 15 Sept. 10am to noon, 4.30pm to 6.30pm.

31 Lucca,OPENING: Villa Bottini, Via Elisa.

Homage to Claudia Cardinale, exhibit organized by Alessandra Orsucci. Until 16 Sept.Inauguration6.30pm.

214

Firenze,

LAST DAY:

INAUGURATION:

New York University, Limonaia Villa La Pietra, Via Bolognese 120. Camera Obscura Views of Villas &

their Environs, Abelardo Morell,

photos. Visits by appointment ([email protected]).

Lucca Artigiana, 5pm. See 15 September.

21

28

139LAST DAY: Montecarlo, Via Carmignani 20, Palazzo Pancani. La Stanza del

Sole. Daily 9pm to midnight (Sundays & holidays from 6pm). I colori della mia

terra. Paintings by Roberto Pasquinelli, 1978-2018.

8OPENING:

OPENING:

LAST DAY:

Lucca,

Lucca,

Pietrasanta,

Castello Porta S. Pietro, Walls, site of Lucchesi nel Mondo. Gelaterii di Lucchesia,

history of an art & a Lucca emigration, and more. Until 7 October. 10am to noon, 4.30pm to 6.30pm. www.lucchesinelmondo.it

Corte dell’Angelo. Luk, City of Shadow & Light. Book presentation & photo exhibit. Until 16 Sept. 10am to 6pm. www.labirintodellimmagine.blogspot.com

Futura Art Gallery. Anthony Moman, Wazzap?! On the theme of emoticoms. Hours 6pm to midnight. Info: 338 3362101, galleriafutura.com

15OPENING:

OPENING:

Lucca,

Lucca,

Real Collegio, Piazza del Collegio 13. LuccaArtigiana. 10am to 8pm. See article on page 10. FB page @luccaartigiana

Casermetta San Paolino. Medieval Lucca in the Works of Sercambi. History of the town in a bilingual exhibit. Until 28 Sept. 10am to 6pm. www.dallapartedeipiccoli.org

29

Saturday Wed Thu TuesMon

22TWO DAYS ONLY: Quilt Art in Lucca. Casa del

Boia. 10am to 6pm. Featuring the Via Francigena quilt. www.quiltartinlucca.it

Friday Sunday

Po

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Morell

Dere

dia

Ma

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od

està

Ja

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ak

e

Tongji (Shanghai) University architectural students project

in Piazza San Donato (near ex-Cavallerizza)

photo byGiovanniRomboni for theFondazioneRagghiantiexhibit Puccini &the Visual Arts

Modigliani

Ghiglia

Exhibitions, September 2018 Exhibitions,

September 2018

Cruciword by Helen Askham

Clues in English have Italian answers. Clues in Italian have English answers.

Settembre

Lucchese

August solution

ACROSS

1 With 18 down, the day after 5 down (5,5)

4 Cooked in flaming liquor, flambato (6)

9 Camicia da notte (7)

10 Marble (5)

11 Moon (4)

12 Drin drin, il suono di una campana (7)

13 6 down, St Martin (3,7)

14 Uno scozzese (4)

16 Camera, spazio (4)

18 Società per Azioni; terme (3)

20 Cleanness (7)

21 Hymn (4)

24 Cathedral (5)

25 Thirteen, a special day in the Lucca

calendar (7)

26 Sorrisi (6)

27 Train (5)

DOWN

1 Candela (6)

2 Organo (5)

3 100 gm (4)

5 Lucca's candlelight procession (8)

6 See 13 across

7 Abbastanza… e basta! (6)

8 Imparare (5)

13 Where 27 across stops (8)

15 Calculations (7)

17 Vanghe; le picche sulle carte (6)

18 See 1 across

19 Gothic (6)

22 Rumore (5)

23 Incontrare (4)

Quality TranslationsEditing & Book Preparation

Consulting

Tel. 333 8617962Fax 0583 164254

email: [email protected]

Editions

GRAPEVINE

closed Sunday evening

and Monday

Via della Cervia - LUCCA

Tel. 0583 55881

Fax 0583 312199www.bucadisantantonio.it

[email protected]

See

for total hair care

Shampoo and dry €17.00Cut €13.00/25.00Colour €30.00Manicure €14.00Hair drying self-service €5.00

Hours: Monday 13.30 to 18.00

Tuesday to Saturday 8.30 to 18.30Piazza San Frediano 3 - Lucca

Tel/fax 0583 467375 [email protected]

We now have a barber for men.

Since 1860

Traditional Lucca cuisine

Lucca - Via Anfiteatro, 5-7-9tel. and fax 0583 [email protected]

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M O L D S A L T SC A M P E R U I E

C A A A N C O R AC R O N A C A T N B

A O U A B E L EO M B R E L L O N I D

E A A P O IJ M A R T I R R E N OE X P A T N I CT L T M I E T E R EL A U R E A O M IA M S N O I O S OG A B B I A N I I

19Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine September 2018 Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine September 2018 18 WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND

TRADITIONS, SPORTS, OUTDOORS CINEMA

CONFERENCES

MEET-UP GROUPS & GRAPEVINE ACTIVITIES

COMING UP

CHILDREN

Lucca, Celebration of the Volto Santo (Lucca) 14 Sept. Lucca, outdoor cinema at Villa Bottini, Via Elisa. Ending in Lucchesi from around the world return home for this event. The early September, rain dates at Cinema Moderno, Via V. candlelight procession (from San Frediano to the Duomo) takes Emanuele II, 17. Showings are at 9.30pm. www.luccacinema.it place the night before, 13 Sept. The streets are lit by thousands & on Facebook & Instagram Luccacinema. On 3 & 4 Sept., Un

of candles. Fireworks follow. See article on page 5. marito a metà, a French comedy. «Marie discovers that her husband has a relationship with another woman. Overcoming

Lucca, 13 Sept. 4pm, Lucca, Palazzo Ducale. Lucchesi nel her initial shock, she decides to confront the rival and proposes

Mondo meeting with jazz intermezzo.that they share the husband on alternative weeks."

Lucca, Awards for Lucchesi che si sono distinti all'estero. 15 Sept. 10am at San Francesco Church. 50th anniversary com- Florence, Odeon Cinema, films in the original language.memoration with Lucchesi nel Mondo. www.lucchesinelmondo.it

Lucca, Santa Croce Lunch with Lucchesi nel Mondo. 15 Sept. 1pm at San Francesco Church, obligatory to reserve at Lucchesi nel Mondo headquarters on the Wall (above Porta San Pietro gate). Cost: 40 euro.

Lucca, Piazza Napoleone & Piazza San Martino 34th annual

crossbow competition. Teams from throughout Italy. 8-9 Sept. www.consanpaolino.com Lucca, Agorà Auditorium, Via delle Trombe. 16 Sept. 6pm.

Altro Spazio, Altro Tempo, Stessa Umanità by Vincenzo Lucca, ex-Cavallerizza, Porta San Donato & elsewhere.

Moneta. With musical interludes by Maria Bruno & Piero 16/23/30 Sept. Palio of San Paolino & Santa Croce, traditional

Nissim.crossbow & flag-throwing competition. www.consanpaolino.com

Lucca, Baluardi San Regolo, La Libertà, Montecarlo Wine Festival, 31 August to 9 Sept. Lucca, Villa Bottini, Via Elisa. 26 Sept. 6pm, Rossini’s

Botanical Garden, & under the Walls. Women. Recital by Laboratorio Brunier: Maria Bruno & Claudia Murabilia, gardening & flower show. See ar- Conti & book presentation Il duello by Anna Lisa Del Carlo (see ticle on page 8. article on page 9).

Lucca, on the Walls. 7 Sept. Non-competitive race beginning at 5am at Pasticceria Stella. www.luccamarathon.it

Aquilea (Lucca), La Battaglia del Castellaccio di Aquilea,

Lucca Walls, San Frediano platform. L’Occhio di Lucca, 8 historical-cultural walk. 22 Sept 10am to 2pm. FB: Comitato Sept. 5pm artillary blasts for visual & auditory signalling. Paesano di Aquilea.Historic re-enactment. www.historicalucense.altervista.org

Marlia, Villa Reale Historical Re-enactment. 16 Sept. Lucca, Villa Bottini, Via Elisa. Fashion in Flair, display & mar-

www.parcovillareale.itket of artisans & style. 21 to 23 Sept. Free admission. www.fashioninflair.com

Barga, Scottish Market. Sunday 9 Sept.Lucca, Piazza Napoleone. 22-23 Sept. Pane è... (Bread is).

Free tastings of fresh-baked items. www.confartigianatolucca.it Lido di Camaiore, Fish sagra, 9 to 23 August.

Lucca, Terrazza Petroni, Parco Fluviale del Serchio. 9 Sept. Camaiore Film Festival. Mid-September.

10.30am. Zamp-eggiata along the Serchio. Strolling with pets, 8th edition. www.anpana.net

Pedona (Camaiore), San Maurice Church, Patron Saint Day. Mass & community lunch. 23 Sept. 10am to 1pm.

Renaio (near Barga), Quarantore, 40 hour devotion. Religious feast. 23 Sept. beginning 3pm.

Thursday evenings 8.15pm, Grapevine conversation

group at Des Artes Bistro (Piazza San Giusto). 333 8617962.

Monday 4pm international conversation group at Osteria San Salvatore on the Lucca Walls near Casa del Boia.

Luccalele group, convivial group for ukelele fans. To participate contact Paolo at 380 4358318 or email [email protected]

Lucca, Villa Bottini, Via Elisa. 30 Sept. Francigena Tuscany

Marathon. www.francigenatuscanymarathon.it

Lucca, Piazza del Giglio. 9 Sept. Rhythmic gymnastics exhi-

bition. www.ritmicalucca.it

Lucca, Piazzale V. Emanuele II, Baluardo Santa Maria (on the Walls). Olympica Sports Festival, presenting Lucca’s sports programs. 23 Sept. www.officinapodistica.it

Lucca Chess Festival, 22-23 Sept. 9am to 6pm. Foro Boario (Borgo Giannotti). www.luccascacchi.it

Nozzano (Lucca), The Castle Lives Again, medieval festival, first weekend in September. www.turismo.lucca.it is another source for events & tours.

Lucca, Viale Regina Margherita (outside Porta San Pietro), LuccaLibri. Book Launch & aperitivo, for David Collins’ Buying

& Restoring in Tuscany, published by Grapevine Editions. 8 Sept. 5pm.

Capannori - Tassignano Airport Air Festival, 4 to 9, 14 to 16 Sept. Hot air balloons, air acrobatics, exhibitions, children’s events. Tel. 0583 428585 9am to 2pm. www.flyairevents.org

Lucca, IMT. Conference of World Congress of Psycho-physiology, 4 to 8 Sept., IMT Institute for Advanced Studies.

Lucca, IMT. Bright, La Notte dei Ricercatori, events for dis-semination of scientific culture. San Francesco Complex, 28-29 Sep. 8pm. www.bright-toscana.it

Lucca, San Romano Auditorium, 10,11,15,16 Sept. Economy

& Spirituality. Teatro di Verzura & I Ricostruttori Associations. https://economiespiritualita.it

Lucca, Fondazione Banca del Monte di Lucca & Biblioteca Statale. 11-12 Sept. 9am to 7pm. Convention for Architect

Don Domenico Martinelli. www.fondazionebmlucca.it

Lucca, Boccherini Auditorium, 16 Sept. 4.30pm. Storia, arte &

massoneria nella Lucchesia.

Lucca, Koinè Cultural Center, Via dei Tabacchi 5. 8 Sept. 5pm. Se Caravaggio Avesse Avuto una Reflex. Conference on visual communication, photography & painting.

www.koinecenter.com

Lucca, Viale Regina Margherita (outside Porta San Pietro), LuccaLibri. Book Launch with aperitivo, David Collins’ Buying Lucca, Boccherini Music Institute, Saletta Rossa. 19 Sept. & Restoring in Tuscany, published by Grapevine Editions. 8 5.30pm. Presentation of the research regarding Boccherini’s Sept. 5pm. Symphonies by Matteo Giuggioli, Germàn Labrador & Marco

Mangani.

LUBeC, international tourism/innovation meeting, 4-5 Oct.

MIAC Lucca, International Paper Industry Meeting, 10/11/12 Oct.

Lucca Carta D’Epoca, Engravings/antique books. 20-21 Oct.

Lucca Comics & Games, 31 Oct. to 4 Nov.

Lucca Marathon & 30K. 21 Oct. www.luccamarathon.com

Lucca Urban Trekking 31 Oct. 7pm.

Barga, 14 Oct., Slow-Barga, market of typical products.

The outdoor summer cinema at Villa Bottini finishes its program Montecarlo Chocolate 20-21 Oct.with Ritorno al bosco dei 100 acri (that’s Return to Hundred-

Celle dei Puccini Autumn Festival, 27 October. Acre Wood or the Winnie-the-Pooh update for those out of touch with their inner child). Probably a great film for Italian language

Montecarlo, Montecharloween, 31 Oct. 8pm to midnight.learners, but even better for lovers of this great children’s book. Showings: 1/2/5 Sept. (see further details under “Cinema”).

NEW: Camaiore cultural exchange: English/Italian speaking. Meetings, activities & aperitivi. Register on the website CamaioreCulturalExchange.com


Elba has a chequered history. In 1546 Cosimo here for 300 days before escaping back to

I de'Medici, the Grand Duke of Tuscany, France.

fortified the town of Portoferraio (the port city) Whether you are in search of history, hiking,

and named it Cosmopoli. In 1736, Elba came or cycling around the island's network of

under the rule of the Kingdom of Naples, and in roadways and trails, Elba has it all. Perhaps, like

1802 Elba became a French possession. me, you simply want to relax and soak up its

Following Napoleon's defeat in May 1814, the breathtaking scenery and smell the abundance of

Congress of Vienna was held (from November blooms. Whatever your choice, you won't be

1814 to June 1815) to re-determine territorial disappointed with your trip to delightful Elba.

authorities, and Elba was restored to the Grand

Duchy of Tuscany. The French Emperor

Napoleon was exiled to Elba for ten months in

that same year. You can visit his summer home,

where he lived in relative luxury, setting himself

tasks to improve Elba's quality of life. He stayed

– by Sue Perry

will return to this delightful Tuscan island, I summer breezes, not forgetting the mesmerising

said to myself as the ferry slowly eased its sunsets.Iway out of the dock while the sun glistened on For all who love swimming, sailing, walking,

the Tyrrhenian Sea. We had just concluded a hiking, or just relaxing with a glass of Tuscan

fabulous few days travelling around this pretty wine, Elba offers those who visit a most

part of Tuscany. There was so much history to memorable stay indeed. It is also a photographer's

discover here, and so many delights! delight. Each little village is brimming with

Elba is a Mediterranean island ten kilometres colourful flowering shrubs and plants scattered

from Piombino, south of Livorno, in Tuscany. It is all over its predominantly rocky terrain.

224 square kilometres, the largest of seven major Although there is a small airport on Elba,

islands in the Tuscan Archipelago, and has an boats are the only other means of transport to get

estimated population of 30,000. This number you to this alluring island. There are regular daily

swells during the summer months when locals car ferry services to the island, and in summer it's

and tourists escape the mainland in search of a must to pre-book.

clear cool water, fresh seafood and wafting

Enchanting Elba


he buccellato is a typical sweet bread of Lucca that is eaten all year, especially during the Demonstration of the Exaltation of the Volto Santo held in Lucca in TTSeptember. This special cake, which delights the

Lucchese people, dates back to the ancient Roman times, when with buccellatum they referred to the soldiers' bread. Nowadays buccellato is considered a dessert or a breakfast sweet-bread. It is made with bread dough, usually enriched with sugar, raisins, nuts and aniseed, a widely used ingredient in Tuscan biscuits.

This tasty dessert can easily be found in various bakeries, though the most praised is the one that can be bought at the original Taddeucci pastry shop, dating from 1881. It is located in the historical centre of Lucca, in piazza San Michele, close to the church. The Taddeucci family claim to own the secret recipe of the sole, unmatchable buccellato. Theirs is a tradition passed from father to son. It seems that many celebrated people have been loyal customers of the shop – politicians, composers, consuls, ambassadors, but also other very important individuals such as Puccini, "the son of Lucca", who was a loyal customer, or Prince Charles, and even Pope Jean Paul II.

You may find it amusing to discover that there is also a buccellato in Sicily, usually baked for Christmas. This is different, with more ingredients, such as almonds, dried figs, and orange peel. Apparently, Lucca's buccellato was brought to Sicily, where people modified the original recipe.

Are you curious to savor buccellato? Wonderful! There is an old saying: Don't say you've been to Lucca if you haven't eaten buccellato. In case you don't have the opportunity to come to Lucca, you can definitely bake it at home. Here's the recipe!

Ingredients:

Mix the flour, sugar, butter, brewer's yeast, pinch of salt, milk, and a little warm water. Form a ball of dough and add the raisins and aniseed. Let it rise for about an hour. After the dough rises, form a ring. Make a cut on the dough so that it can rise. Leave to rise another hour. Finally, coat the dough with beaten eggs and sugar, then bake at 180°C for one hour.

– Myra SaraevLiceo Vallisneri, Lucca

BuccellatoSegreti di Lucca Perfume captures the soul of things. “Segreti di Lucca” is the essence of the gardens, churches and palazzos of Lucca. Prepared with natural oils and fine essences according to a long Florentine perfume tradition. The perfect way to remember your visit to Lucca. www.sdlprofumi.com

L'Angolo Via Vittorio Veneto 29 ~ Lucca Tel./Fax +39 0583 490850 [email protected]

L’Angolo di Santa Maria NovellaPerfumes, soaps, creams, herbal remedies and tonics prepared since 1612 based on the ancient remedies of the Dominican Monks of Santa Maria Novella in Florence.

Flour (500g) Fresh brewer's yeast (20g)Sugar (150g) Raisins (50g)Two eggs Two teaspoons One glass of milk (200g) of aniseedButter (50g) A pinch of salt


Agenzia Immobiliare Dimore Toscane srl

Via Marconi 14, Barga - Lucca - Italy

Ref. 133:

Ref. 232:

Ref. 709:

Ref. 311:

In the historic centre of Barga.

New build, well-detailed property on outskirts of Barga. 3 bedrooms, 2 baths. 160sqm. Pergola, jacuzzi, topiary, hot-tub, garage (currently

used as a gym). € 325,000.

2 lovely fully reno-vated flats with lift. Each has 3 bedrooms & 2 baths plus fire-place. Total 220sqm. APE class G. € 260,000.

Pleasant house with garden in centre of Barga. Beautiful panoramic views. On 3 levels, 5 rooms with 2 baths.

New system of solar panels. APE class G. € 179,000.

Near Barga, rural residence with 2 farm buildings, olives, grapes, stupendous views. To be renovated. APE class G. € 150,000.

APE class G.

PROPERTIES FOR SALE BY OWNER

For more information: [email protected]

Lido di Camaiore

500m from the BEACH

Large home (240 sqm) with garden on 3 sides. 4 bedrooms, 3 baths. Fully equipped kitchen. Wrap-around terrace at 1st floor. Garage. Spacious attic & downstairs rooms. 580,000 euros.(Ref. 1194)

An enchanting 18th century

villa that sleeps 14 (8 bedrooms w i t h A / C , 6 b a t h r o o m s ) , already booked b y s e a s o n a l renters for much of the summer. In its 2 hectares of beautiful gardens & forests you will find a gazebo, green-house, swimming pool, rare plants, even parrots!

3.5 million euros.C o n v e n i e n t l y located in a quiet village just a short bike ride from the s e a , b e t w e e n Lucca and Pisa. Buses pass the gates hourly. . (Ref. 1197)

SAN GINESE (CAPANNORI). Delightful country property that can be used as a farmhouse or renovated into an elegant es-tate. South-facing. Currently 3 bedrooms with study + large at-tic (2 more rooms), bath, country kitchen, living room. Adjacent laundry/workroom with upstairs storage room & additional cantinas. Total 380 sqm. On a hill overlooking the Compitese villages & Lago di Bientina. Approx. 4000 sqm of land (grapes/ olives/forest). Cl. G IPE 255,20. € 430,000. (Ref. 1165)

Excellent opportunity to acquire a lovely home in a select gated

community in Tuscany, 5 minutes away from the walls of Lucca in

beautiful, peaceful, semi-rural surroundings with wonderful views. 15 minutes to Pisa, 25 minutes to the seaside (Forte dei Marmi, Viareggio,

Pietrasanta), 25 minutes to Pisa airport, 35 minutes to Pistoia, 45 minutes to Florence. Summer swimming pool at local tennis club 5 minutes' walk.

The detached 3-storey house can be sold with or without furniture and is composed of: double gated entrance with intercom, security alarm, 3-4 bedrooms, large converted loft space, open lounge/kitchen/diner, covered patio, secluded garden, plenty of storage, garage & laundry room, 3 toilets, 2 bathrooms, 2 showers. Air-conditioning on 1st & 2nd floors, underfloor heating throughout, pellet stove. Space for 2-3 cars in front of the house and 2 car spaces in communal parking area. Satellite dish for international TV.

€350,000 negotiable. For further information please e-mail: [email protected] or [email protected] (Ref. 1209)


Letters to the Editor

X

X

In the editorial last month, we took issue with the problem of plastics invading our world,

including our beautiful Lucca. As you can see here,

the shared sentiments were quick to arrive!


The reason for this email is that, Thanks for renewing my subscrip- I agree wholeheartedly with your after reading the last paragraph in the tion. By the next edition I'll be there. comments on plastic. However, whilst Grapevine editorial (August issue), I Have just started reading the mag mentioning plastic bottles let's include thought you might be curious about my and had to let you know how much I love plastic straws. daughter's profession and vocation. you taking a stance on plastic, something I have seen a video showing marine

She's currently a master dive I'm also passionate about. biologist Christine Figgener removing a instructor in Utila, a tiny island off In fact, in considering how to nour- plastic straw stuck in a sea turtle's nose Honduras, but has also taught in many ish my gelato addiction while I'm there and it is heart-breaking. Get rid of other far off places in this field and due without creating waste, I'm packing as plastic straws.to the "connection with water" her work per the attached image (below). Over 500 million plastic straws are involves, she has become an active Look forward to seeing you. used every day in America alone, and supporter for helping to look after, care

most of those end up in our oceans, for and clean up global seas and oceans

– Debbi Rodden polluting the water and killing marine especially with regards to "coral

life. If we don't act now, by the year 2050 nurseries".

there will be more plastic in the ocean During her last visit to Italy, I was than fish.continually scolded for using too much

plastic and since then I have tried to – Sue Perryreplace these items as much as possible.

However, I'm ashamed to have to admit Right! Tell your bartender, that it's been rather difficult although I

“No Straw, please!” am persevering now that I've become more aware of the awful dangers.

If you would like to know more about what my daughter does, her FB page is Ivana Inglesina and one of her recent posts advertised the website: www.4ocean.com which offers bracelets to purchase "to remove one pound of trash" from oceans and coastlines.

I hope this follow up to the Grapevine editorial is of interest to you.

My regards to the team.Best wishes,

– Isabel Simmons

ountain people are different people. Not for them even now MMthe comfort of the

shop just down the road. They pride themselves on their capacity to live through lean times and feed anyone who turns up. I met Diana on the day there had been an earthquake tremor in the mountains, which she had felt (and so had we in Barga), but of course the mountain folk carry on with their lives in their usual

meal, but I'm guessing most of phlegmatic way. In fact we played

us will not get to taste anything cards, a fiendish game called

like this. They taste like Burraco, which someone dubbed

chicken, she declared, and told “gin rummy on speed”. Diana

of an English guest who had proudly said the rules were different

relished what he thought of as in the mountains, as we sorted out

“chicken” – then spat out the our hands with two packs of cards,

frogs' legs when he realised twos as well as jokers being “jolly

what he had been eating. But cards”' that could be used anywhere.

for what it's worth, here's a And I got my head round the Italian

recipe:names for the suits: picche, cuori, denari, fiori. When the men arrive, the game gets more competitive, with lots of shouting, but it's only ever played for fun, not money. At least that's what she said. Tocca a te ... over to you.

Mountain people tend not to look backwards either, and Diana didn't appear to know much about her nonna, or where she had lived before being on the mountain top, and doubted whether she had been a good cook anyway. But she did remember that she had been a woman molto elegante: a tall and noble woman who wore a collar made of black pearls round her neck and who had travelled afar to England and America. And now it is Diana herself who wears the cooking crown. When I told my neighbour who looks after the church that I was meeting Diana he said with admiration that when he was a boy and they worked up in the hills, Diana was always there with a merenda, seeing that they were all well fed and happy. She never uses a recipe and cooks with flair and intuition such delicacies as zucchini stuffed with ricotta, and all the other mountain vegetables and herbs. Even the timo up here is different

1. Soak frogs’ legs in milk for 1 hour, turning every 15 she says: more fragrant than anything you can get down below in minutes.the valley. When the hunters come up to the mountains she cooks

2. Remove from milk and salt and pepper them lightly, then for them: a (now strictly controlled) amount of little birds stuffed coat them in flour and fizzy water (Don't forget the fizzy with sausage meat, squirrels (yes squirrels, si mangia bene) before water, says Diana).they were prohibited, and very delicious they were too, she says,

also wild boar – and wait for it, the pièce de resistance – FROGS' 3. In a skillet bring the oil to a sizzle and add frogs' legs.LEGS! Well this may be beyond most of us, but you need to go up 4. Sauté legs uncovered until they're golden brown on both the mountain in the late spring, when little vibrant green frogs, sides (turning as needed)ranocchi, swarm up from Lago Santo and nearer streamlets, and

Still, cards were really on her mind, and we played on for a make such a thick carpet of hopping crowds on the roads you can't while. As we left she said, Come up any time, I'm always here. help but run them over. Hop, skip and splat.... When I said goodbye and fai a modo, she said approvingly, now They are beautiful, said Diana, in her unsentimental way, and that's a real Tuscan saying. So that won't be the last time I see her, VERY small, so you need about 800 of them to make a decent meal though whether I'll ever get to eat frogs legs is a debatable point.for hungry hunters. Diana with infinite patience tackles the

Thanks to Carol Burnett, another mountain woman in the seemingly unenviable task of cutting off their tiny legs, skinning making, for the introduction to Diana.them, and then frying them in a batter made of sparkling water and

– by Judith Edwardsflour. There you go, she said proudly, that's something you'll www.cansurviving.comnever get in a restaurant. Alongside the plucked and stewed little

www.judithedwards.co.ukbirds, with some rice or polenta, these make a rich and satisfying

Altri tempi ... anni fa ...Recipes & Remembrances ...Diana the Mountain Huntress


ENGLISH-SPEAKING PROFESSIONAL SERVICES LESSONS, TRANSLATIONS & COURSES

Private Italian classes Italian woman, speaks fluent English, offers individual/group lessons. Beginners, intermediate, advanced. Help with interpreting and assistance with relocating. Can travel from Lucca. Anna Cell. 347 9194155 [email protected] (Ref. 267)Translations Italian to English and English to Italian by experienced mother-tongue translators. Contact Grapevine (Ref. 817)Spoken English private lessons. Contact Grapevine. (Ref. 1186)

Experienced mature Cordon blu chef/housekeeper looking for live-in position. Speak Italian, Spanish, French. Have worked in Milan, Florence, Lago Maggiore. Contact 0033 684670153/0044 7817495367/0038 345 6180102. Sarah Dawson Thomson. (Ref. 1213)Bilingual American student with tutoring/teaching experience, Accountants Vannucci & Associates. Viale attending Univ. of Pisa, living in Lucca, available for English language, San Concordio 710, 55100 Lucca. Tel. +39 math and science tutoring or homework assistance. Tel. 324.796.7323 or 0583 316636, fax: +39 0583 419451, email email [email protected]. (Ref. 1214)[email protected] - www.vannuccieassociati.it (Ref. 1103)

Accountant Paola Girolami (Universities of Pisa and Bristol). Via Delle Ville 354/A, Lucca. Tel 0583 471734, fax 0583 952349.Dental Surgeon Dr. Barbato & Dr. Cumbo. Via Fillungo 91, 55100 Lucca. Tel. 0583 492853.Dental Surgeon Dr. Carlo G.F. Martini. Via Romana 231, 55100 Lucca. Tel 0583 467975, [email protected] Surgeon Dr. Rogier Staal (University of Amsterdam). Via Farnesi 25a, Lucca. Tel. and fax 0583 953633. Dutch/English/Italian/French/ German. [email protected]

FOR SALE: (1) KUVINGS Estrattore / Whole Slow Juicer B6000, in Lawyer Daria Mariani (English spoken). Real estate, contracts,

original box, manuals in Italian/English, 220-240V, 10 year guarantee. (2) inheritance, accident, family, commercial, auctions, etc. Tel. 0583 316110,

Tastiera / Keyboard YAMAHA PSR-433 + FC5A pedal + PROEL-EL250 cell. 340 8672443, [email protected] (Ref. 1191)

Keyboard support. All items in excellent condition. Call Chris 340 10 Lawyer Alberto Del Carlo. Admitted to the Italian High Courts, Piazzale

99449. (Ref. 1215)Ricasoli, 241 – 55100 Lucca. Tel. 0583 494952, fax 0583 492352. email

Wanted, English speaker to play with & read to a 4-year-old Italian child in [email protected] In the real estate field, Mr. Del Carlo is in strict a home at Massa Macinaia (accessible by car or bike, 15 minutes outside of connection with surveyors (geometri) who speak English fluently.town). Tel. Elisa at 3282660846, or email [email protected] Ilaria Cipriani (Anglo/Italian). Via Nottolini 733, 55100 Lucca. Tel.

0583 1892444, fax 0583 1770173. [email protected] TV in Italy, all UK channels from £11.99 a month. 14 day catch-up. Let

Lawyer Enrico Lattanzi. Viale Giacomo Puccini n°75, Lucca. Tel. (+39) us show you how! Contact Grapevine for referral. (Ref 1142)

0583 584981, fax (+39) 0583 316172, cell. (+39) 347 4479061. [email protected], www.lawfirminitaly.com (Ref. 1204)Landscape design & Garden maintenance. Call Tommaso at cell. 349 284 5399 or email [email protected] www.luccalandscape.it (Ref. 572)Removals Local, National, European and International relocation service. Servicing the UK with regular trips every 2-3 weeks. Full professional packing & export wrapping service. Friendly, experienced, professional Kiwi service. Contact Richard at [email protected] or 340 8748222. (Ref. 771)

JOB SEARCH

VARIOUS

Moving Sale Lucca Whole house contents of quality for sale including antiques, wardrobes, furniture, mirrors, paintings, etc. Please email [email protected] for list. (Ref 1083)

Lovers and readers of all things Tuscan. Engage your senses, read and live the dream of the place you love. www.jacquelinefalcomer.com (Ref. 1210)

U.S. TAX RETURNS FOR AMERICANS IN ITALY

Alexander v.Pinoci PAAL SERVICES USA, LLC (UStaxItaly)

email: [email protected] pec: [email protected]

Website: http://www.ustaxitaly.com/

Michigan USA tel: +1-808-316-0719

Rome ITALY tel: +39-06.9294.7508

cell: +39-328.162.0531 fax: +39-06.233.241.949

Grapevine cannot evaluate all the advertisements

and assumes no responsibility for their content.


Design and installation gardens terraces and watering systems

Garden maintenanceTypical Tuscan gardens

tel 0583 316713Simone 335 [email protected]

www.ilcerchioverde.it

Il Cerchio Verde

335 6777833

via De Gasperi n° 279 • 55100 Lucca

[email protected] • www.ri-struttura.it

195cm

x 1

24cm

x 5

3cm

Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine September 201826

Near Devil's Bridge (Borgo a Mozzano). Country estate. Large kitchen/dining room, pantry, 2 sitting rooms, fireplace, study/office, 2 bedrooms, 2 baths downstairs. 3 bedrooms, 3 baths upstairs. Large swimming pool. English garden. 1.5 hectares for strolling through mead-ows & forest. Wheelchair access & large park-ing area. Photovoltaic & solar systems. € 695,000. By owner. Contact Grapevine for confidential transactions. (Ref. 1147)

Please use the form on our webpage or send us an email at:

[email protected]

Classified Advertisements Also visible at

www.luccagrapevine.com

In the Compitese hills near Lucca, semi-detached house from 1733. P1: dining, living, kitchen, large bath, P2: 3 bedrooms, attic. Courtyard with cantina & pizza-oven. Solar panels. Land (pool possible) nearby but not adjacent. Possibility of 2nd bathroom. €130,000. Tel. 349 7146953 (Ref. 1205)

Country house 8 km west of Lucca in a small hamlet overlooking the valley. Restored while respecting the original style. Large rooms on 3 levels: PT living room with fireplace, spacious kitchen, bedroom, bath. P1 2 bedrooms & bath. P2 spacious loft with beautiful views in all directions. Garden & pleasant terrace for outdoor dining. €320,000. Contact Grapevine. (Ref. 1201)

Albiano (near Barga). Independent apartment (approx. 150sqm) with panoramic garden & terrace (50sqm, On two floors: entrance hall, living room, dining room, kitchen/dining room on ground floor. 3 bedrooms on 1st floor. Bathroom with bathtub. Oil fired central heating (boiler installed in 2014). Double glazed windows with aluminum shutters. Energy Rating: G. Bus stop @ 40mt, train station @ 5 km, post office @ 4.5 km, news agent @ 4.5 km, café/restaurant @ 50mt. Price € 165,000. Tel. 348 6559698. (Ref. 1188)

In the heart of Lucca,

near Via Fillungo &

Torre delle Ore.

Beautiful, luminous 3rd floor apartment. 220 sqm. Large entrance hall, 4 bed-rooms, 2 baths, spacious kitchen from the 1500s, enormous living room, loft area with 2 rooms & laun-dry. Ceilings up to 4 meters high, floors in terracotta & tessieri, wood beam ceilings, wood panelled living room ceiling. € 800,000. (Ref 1184)

RIVERFRONT PROPERTY Ideal for fishermen & bathers, facing the Serchio River at the foot of the Brancoli hills. Early 1900s estate with traditional tile & parquet floors, fitted kitchen, marble stairs, wooden railings, etc. Can be a single home (5-6 bedrooms, 4 baths, 3 floors) or 2 apartments (total 408 sqm). The large garden with trees & olives is bounded by a mule track & old stone wall. Terrace near the kitchen, ideal for dining al fresco. The house is separated from the road by a secure gate. Parking for 4-5 cars inside the property & along the river. Energy certificate available. Contact Grapevine (Ref. 1179)

House renovated into 3 separate apartments in traditional style for a total of 210sqm. With forest land, garden, above-ground pool. Ideal for bed & breakfast. Contact Grapevine. (Ref. 1200)

Fabbriche

di Casabasciana

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Contacts:[email protected]

Tel. 0583 394412 (fax 0583 395814)

Tenuta

MARIA TERESA

Wines, Oils, Honey, Pasta …All made on the estate,

using traditional methods

15 minutes from Lucca at: San Martino in Vignale 55060

Via per Pieve Santo Stefano 3427/a

Hours: 10 to 12.30 Mondays/Saturdays10 to 12.30, 14.30 to 17 Tuesdays to Fridays

Wine & oil tastings

Three beautiful villas, each with its own

private swimming pool …

From 3 bedrooms 2 baths to 5 bedrooms 5 bathsSurrounded by nature, olive groves, and silence

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fo TUSCANY’S r only uyi September 2018 n GRAPEVIN .50when ... · Artisans in Lucca 10 The Year 742, The Volto Santo Comes to Lucca 5 Book Review: Il duello 9 Diana the Mountain