Flowering Bulbs

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Agricultural Extension ServiceThe University of Tennessee

PB 1610

Flowering

GardensTennesseeBulbs for

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ContentsBulbs ........................................3Corms .......................................3Tubers .......................................3Rhizomes .....................................4Culture ......................................4

Introduction ................................4Site Selection ................................5Site Preparation ..............................5Selecting Plant Material ........................5

Planting Spring-Flowering Geophytes ................6Iris .......................................6

Planting Summer-Flowering Geophytes ..............7Caladium ..................................7Canna .....................................8Dahlia .....................................8Gladiolus ..................................9

Maintenance of Geophytes ....................... 10Forcing Spring-Flowering Geophytes in the Home ... 11Forcing Tender Geophytes in the Home ........... 12Amaryllis ................................. 12

Dictionary of Bulbous Plants ...................... 13The Bulb Selector .............................. 21Mail Order Sources ............................ 22U.S.D.A. Hardiness Zone Map .................... 23

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A wealth of spring-,summer- and fall-flowering bulbs can

be used to extend the gardenfloral display from earlyspring until late fall. Some ofthese will be winter hardyand remain in the groundyear-round. Others will notsurvive freezing temperaturesand must be replanted eachspring. Many are not eventrue bulbs, but are often soldalong side true bulbs in mailorder catalogs and at gardenstores. The different types ofunderground storage struc-tures that are frequentlycalled bulbs include corms,tubers, tuberous roots, tuber-ous stems and rhizomes.These underground storagestructures collectively arecalled “bulb-forms” or geo-phytes. Geophyte comes fromthe Greek word geo — mean-ing earth, and the Greekword phyte — meaninggrowth or plant; therefore,geophyte means “earthgrowth” or “earth plant.”

Bulbs:The true bulb

consists of amuch-com-pressed, fleshystem, the basalplate. Attachedto the basal plate

are thick, fleshy, modifiedleaves, the scales. The scalesare organized to form twodistinct types of bulbs. Lami-

nate (tunicate)bulbs areconcentric,cylindricalscales. Theouter layers ofscales becomedry and

papery, forming the tunic.This protects the bulb fromdisease, insect and mechani-cal damage. Daffodil andonion are common tunicatebulbs. The scaly (non-tuni-cate) bulb has numerousindividual scales whichreadily break off the basalplate. This bulb has no tunic,making it somewhat moresusceptible to disease, insectand mechanical damage. Lilyis a common scaly bulb.

Corms:A corm is

the swollenbase of a stemwith typicalstem parts:nodes and internodes. Thedry, papery leaf bases en-close the swollen stem base,forming the protective tunic.The tunic, as with the bulbtunic, protects the corm fromdisease and water loss. A

corm does notpersist fromseason toseason. Rather,a new corm isformed abovethe old corm formed theprevious year. Gladiolus andcrocus are the two mostcommonly grown corms.

Tubers:Tubers are

producedwhen the tipsof a stolon (ahorizontallygrowing stemjust at the soilline) becomesswollen from stored foods.Tubers are formed belowground. Close examination ofthe tuber will reveal typicalstem structures of nodes, the“eyes” of a potato and intern-odes. Besides the Irish po-tato, another commonlygrown tuber is caladium.

The tuberous root and thetuberous stem are commonlymislabeled as tubers. Thetuberous rootforms from theswelling of roots.Tuberousroots donot haveany fea-tures

Li ly

Daffodil

Crocus

Gladiolus

Caladium

Dahlia

Flowering Bulbsfor Tennessee Gardens

Mary Lewnes Albrecht, Professor and HeadOrnamental Horticulture and Landscape Design

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common to stems (there areno nodes or internodespresent); they have all theinternal and external featuresof roots.

On the other hand, thetuberous stem does havefeatures of stems. The tuber-ous stem forms from theswelling of the area of theplant known as the hypo-cotyl. This is the transitionregion between the root andthe stem.

Tuberous roots are formedon the sweet potato and thedahlia. Tuberous stems areformed by tuberous begonias,cyclamen and gloxinia.

Rhizomes:A rhizome is a specialized

stem which grows just at orbelow the soil surface. There

are many economicallyimportant plants which

form rhizomesincluding

bamboo,i ris, l i ly-of-the-

valley and many grasses.There are two types of

rhizomes found in nature,leptomorphic rhizome andpachymorphic rhizome. Thelily-of-the-valley has aleptomorphic rhizome: a verythin rhizome with indetermi-nate growth (the rhizomedoes not terminate in a flowerstalk; it remains vegetative),branches freely and formsmany flowering shoots.Plants withleptomorphic rhizomescan formverydensemats.

The pachymorphic rhizomeis a large, fleshy, horizontalstem which has determinategrowth. Once the terminalgrowing point or meristem ofthe rhizome forms an inflores-cence (the flower stalk), therhizome will form two branchesbehind the meristem. Thebearded iris is a very commonpachymorphic rhizome.

Culture:Introduction

Geophytes are normallygrouped based upon theirability to withstand freezingweather. Knowing thisinformation is essential toproper culture.

Hardy geophytes, onceplanted and established, willsurvive freezing temperaturesunder normally good growingconditions. Examples of hardygeophytes are narcissus, tulip,hyacinth, crocus, lily andbearded iris. Semi-hardyspecies may be hardy insomewhat milder climates, butcannot be relied upon tosurvive extended exposure tobelow-freezing temperatures.Many of the anemones,ranunculus, bulbous iris andcannas fall into this class.

Those species which willnot tolerate hard-freezingtemperatures and can only beleft in the ground in warmclimates are referred to astender. This includes many ofour summer-flowering geo-phytes such as dahlia, gladi-olus, caladium, callas andtuberous begonia.

The bulbous plants can beused in a number of ways

and make an attractive addi-tion to gardens: perennialborder, naturalized areas,rock gardens, foundationplantings, flower borders andcontainers. Areas to avoidinclude painted walls, pavedwalks or driveways. Reflectedheat from these areas duringmidday through late after-noon can cause damage tomost plants. If such an area ischosen, the plants will de-velop and flower faster. Themain disadvantage is thefoliage will die back morequickly due to excessive heat.

This will result in bulb de-cline, since not enough foodwill be stored before completedie-back occurs. Plantingunder trees with surface rootssuch as Norway maple, beechor linden should be avoided,since there will be competi-tion between tree roots andbulbs for necessary moistureand nutrients. For the samereason, vigorous shrubs, suchas forsythia and Pfitzer juni-pers, and dense ground

Iris

Cal la-l i l y

Li ly

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covers, such as ivy, pachys-andra or creeping euonymus,should also be avoided. Manylarger spring-flowering,bulbous plants will competesuccessfully with the groundcover Vinca minor , periwinkle.Also consider adding many toperennial beds where theperennials can actually hidethe unsightly bulb foliage asit dies.

Site SelectionWhen choosing a site,

consider sunlight, drainageand air circulation. Mostgeophytes require a minimumof five to six hours of dailysunlight. Notable exceptionsare lily-of-the-valley andcaladium, which can thrive inshade (see the Dictionary ofBulbous Plants and The BulbSelector lists at the end of thispublication for others). Formaximum growth from yearto year, eight to 10 hours ofsunlight are better. Adequatesunlight results in largerblooms and healthier, hardierplants due to the ability tomaximize photosynthesis.

A sandy loam is the besttype of soil for geophytes,since it has very good drain-age coupled with good water-holding capacity. To check anarea for drainage, dig a holeabout 1 foot deep and fill itwith water. Come back thenext day and fill it again. Ifthis second application ofwater drains completely ineight to 10 hours, the soil hasadequate drainage. If not, thesoil most likely has a high claycontent and organic amend-ments such as compost, leafmold or peat moss should be

added to improve drainage.The third essential criteria

is adequate air circulation. Aircirculation is necessary toreduce the incidence of dis-ease with these plants.

Site PreparationIf the chosen site has poor

drainage, several things canbe done. Drain pipes can belaid to facilitate the removal ofexcess water. If this is notdesirable or feasible, addingorganic matter to a heavy claysoil will improve drainage.Adding up to 30 percentorganic matter by volume willmake a difference (spread a 4-inch thick layer of organicmatter over the bed then till itinto the soil to a depth of 12inches). Adding organicmatter from composts willalso aid sandy soils wheredrainage is too rapid andwater-holding capacity isreduced. If the area has suchpoor drainage that organicmatter incorporation will notbe of much benefit, raisedbeds can be constructed.Materials such as landscapetimbers, stone or brick can beused to build raised beds.Walls can be made highenough for use as additionalseating in the smaller gardensof today’s urban settings.Regardless of the methodchosen to improve drainage, itis essential that the soil isprepared to a 12-inch depth sofertilizers are placed in therootzone. Bonemeal, at therate of 4 to 6 pounds per 100square feet of bed area, willprovide plants with phospho-rus, calcium, manganese andsome nitrogen. A reported

problem using bonemeal isthat it attracts squirrels andsimilar pests that may dig upthe bulbs. If an inorganicfertilizer is used, select onewith low nitrogen and highphosphorus, such as a 1:3:1or 1:3:2 N-P2O5-K2O ratio.Check the package directionsfor the proper rate. Be sure totake a soil sample to deter-mine pH. Most geophytesgrow best at a pH range of6.5 to 7.2. All nutrientamendments should beincorporated into the 2-inchlayer of soil upon which thebulbs, corms, tubers andrhizomes will be set.

Selecting PlantMaterial

When buying any flower-ing bulbous plants, it is best tobuy from a reputable dealer.Some minor or unusual bulbshave been illegally harvestedfrom the wild. These should beavoided. Also, avoid the “bar-gain” bulbs. Much of the plantmaterial offered at reducedprices are low grades (smallerbulbs). Low grades will notproduce as large a flower ormay not flower at all. Moreoften than not, you will bedisappointed in plants resultingfrom inferior grade material.

Besides the size or gradeof the bulb, the cultivar canimpact price. Some cultivarsare more difficult to multiplyor they are slower-growingplants. Selecting a cultivar is apersonal preference, becausethere are hundreds of culti-vars from which to choose.

If buying bulbs at a gardencenter, you can pick andchoose the healthy ones. If

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ordering through the mail, besure to examine the bulbsupon arrival and, if youidentify bad plant material,notify the supplier. Symptomsof unhealthy geophytesinclude mold growing on thesurface, an unpleasant odor,discoloration, a soft feel, signsof rot, feeling lightweight or ablemished surface. All aresigns of damage or diseaseand the plants should bediscarded. Use the samecriteria when digging andsorting already establishedplants which are beingthinned, divided or preparedfor winter storage.

PlantingSpring-FloweringGeophytes

Hardy spring-floweringbulbous plants should beplanted before the groundfreezes in the fall. The usualtime is from late Septemberthrough early November.Early planting is essential toallow for good root develop-ment before the ground getscold. If the plant can establisha healthy, vigorous rootsystem before the groundfreezes, it will be capable ofrapid growth and develop-ment in the spring.

When planting bulbousplants, it is best to massthem. Avoid lining them uplike little tin soldiers ormaking a polka-dotted effect.Mass plantings are moreappealing unless it is somelarge, unusual plant such asFritillaria imperalis , crownimperial. If it is necessary toplant single bulbs in amongtrees, shrubs or rocks, it is

easiest to use a hand trowelor a bulb planter. “Bulb” drillbits are now available for usewith a cordless drill forplanting ease. Regardless ofwhether planting just a fewplants or a few hundred, it isextremely important that thegeophytes are planted to theproper depths (see recom-mended planting depth in theDictionary of Bulbous Plants atthe end of this publication).Shallow planting increasesthe risk of frost damage tothe plants. The general rule ofthumb for proper planting depthis 2 to 3 times as deep as theheight of the bulb . Depth ismeasured from the top of thebulb to the soil surface. Invery loose, sandy soils, bulbscan be planted 2 to 3 inchesdeeper than normally recom-mended.

When planting largeareas, it is easiest to excavatethe entire area and lay thebulbs, corms, tubers orrhizomes in place and thenbackfill the area with theremoved soil. When plantinglarge areas, either arrange thebulbs in straight lines for aformal bed or in randomfashion for a naturalizedappearance. In either in-stance, the bed should bedug to a depth of at least 4inches more than the recom-mended planting depth.Replace the bottom 2 inchesof soil. This creates a loos-ened bed for root penetration.To the next 2-inch layer, mixthe bonemeal or other fertiliz-ers. Place the geophytes onthis layer and fill in withabout half the soil. Applywater and allow the soil tosettle. Add the remaining soiland water again. Once thewater has drained away,mulch the bed with severalinches of leaf mold, woodchips or some other organicmulch to prevent drying,freezing and thawing throughthe winter. In areas whererodents can be a problem,encase the geohpytes in 1/ 2 -inch wire mesh. This willprevent rodents from diggingand eating the plants and stillallow the shoots to emergefrom the ground.

IrisOf the hardy, spring-

flowering geophytes, thegenus Iris deserves somespecial attention. There aresome 300 species of irisorganized into 27 subgenera,sections and series. Becausethey easily hybridize, there

Using a bulb planter.

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are hundreds of cultivars.Identification can become agardener’s nightmare! Thereare special morphologicalterms used to describe theiris flower. Informationregarding nomenclature andmorphology is beyond thepurpose of this publication.What follows is some basicinformation for the novicegardener to get started (seethe Dictionary of BulbousPlants for information aboutsome of the more commontypes of iris recommendedfor Tennessee gardens).

Iris will either have bulbsor rhizomes. Regardless ofthe geophyte, most iris preferfull sun where they thrive.Well-drained but moist soilsare important to floral devel-opment. If the rhizomes orbulbs get too dry during thesummer, flower formationcan be inhibited. Many irisare suited to use alongstreams, ponds or in bogsand marshes.

One of the biggest com-plaints heard about iris is:

“They don’t flower like theyused to.” Several environ-mental factors will influenceflowering; if out of balance,flowering will be reduced.First, when people bought anewly constructed home andplanted the yard, the treeswere smaller and not castingshade over the iris beds.Check for sunlight. Are theiris beds now shaded? Whenovercrowded, flowering willbe reduced. The bulbs orrhizomes should be dug,divided and replanted, gener-ally about every three years.Division should take place assoon possible after flowering.If you miss the spring divi-sion season, wait until the fallwhen the nights are coolerthan in July. Many peoplewait until August or Septem-ber to divide iris. A thirdfactor that influences flower-ing is depth of planting. Irisrhizomes should not be settoo deep (follow the recom-mendations in the Dictionaryof Bulbous Plants ). The irisesmight not have been plantedtoo deep originally, but overtime, the rhizomes get cov-ered by mulch and leaf litterand become buried. Withregular division, this will notbe a problem.

Planting Summer-Flowering Geophytes

Many of the summer-flowering geophytes areconsidered to be tenderplants. The main exceptions tothis rule are the assorted liliesand alliums (ornamentalonions). Quite often, all ofthese plants will be referred toas summer-flowering bulbs;

however, very few are truebulbs. Many are tuberousroots, tuberous stems, truetubers, rhizomes and corms.Most of the summer-floweringgeophytes require full-sunconditions. The main excep-tion is caladium, which doesvery well in the shade. Othersmay benefit from some after-noon shade, which protectsthem from the hottest sun ofthe day. Of the summer-flowering geophytes, cala-dium, canna, dahlia, dayliliesand gladiolus are the mostpopular for the garden.

Caladium:Caladium has found its

greatest usefulness in shadesituations. Many of the newcultivars were developedthrough tissue culture and arebeing sold as potted plants.They come mostly with pink,red or white variegated foli-age. The large leaves can beup to 12 inches in length fromend to end.

Caladium tubers can bestarted indoors in Februarythrough April to set in thegarden or maintained in largepots for patios or porches.They need six to eight weeksto develop clumps with goodfoliage. The rough side of thetuber is the top; the bottom isrounded and smooth. Quiteoften, the central eye is re-moved to encourage moreshoots to develop on thetuber. When planting in pots,just barely cover with growingmedium. If setting the tubersdirectly in the garden, plant 2inches deep. Caladiums preferwarm growing conditions. Bepatient and allow the soil towarm up before planting.

Iris

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Caladiums need fertilization toencourage good, rapidgrowth. Avoid high-nitrogenfertilizers, using one with anN-P2O5-K2O ratio of 1:2:2.Caladiums require high mois-ture but well-drained soils. Inthe fall, lift the tubers beforefrost and allow them to dry inthe sun for a few hours. Storedry at 40 to 45F.

Canna:Cannas are often misused

in flower beds. Many of thetall growing cultivars whichattain heights of 4 to 6 feetare often planted in islandbeds and surrounded byextremely short annuals, thusmaking the canna appear tobe a giant. Properly used, thecanna can offer an interestingaccent to a landscape. Theintroduction of dwarf cannas(2 to 3 feet tall) has greatlyadded to their usefulness.Many of the dwarf cannascan be successfully grown invery large containers for thepatio, terrace or entry way.Canna cultivars are availablewith bronze foliage, makingan excellent background toaccent low shrubs, annuals orperennials. A few cultivarswith variegated foliage offer astriking contrast to the darkgreen leaves of many land-scape shrubs.

Canna rhizomes shouldbe planted in a sunny loca-tion. They will do well alongstreams and ponds or in bogsor shallow water, appreciat-ing the extra moisture. Whenpreparing a bed for cannas,extra organic matter shouldbe incorporated into the soilto help increase water-hold-ing capacity. In areas where

the frost-free date is betweenearly April and the end ofMay, the rhizomes may beplanted directly into theflower bed. They should beplanted about 1 to 2 inchesdeep in the bed and about 15to 20 inches apart, dependingupon the ultimate height ofthe plant. The rhizomes canbe started indoors underhigh-light conditions in largepots and then set outdoorsafter all danger of frost ispassed. To encourage alonger flowering season onthe canna, the dead flowersshould be removed to pre-vent seed set.

Cannas are marginallywinter hardy in USDA Zone 6and in most parts of Tennes-see, are often treated ashardy and left in the groundto overwinter. Heavy mulchwill help insulate them in thewinter. In colder regions inthe state, such as highermountain elevations, cannaswill need to be dug for winter

storage. In autumn, after thefirst frost blackens the foliage,the stalks should be cut towithin 6 to 8 inches of therhizomes and then lifted fromthe soil and allowed to par-tially dry. They should thenbe sorted and cleaned, dis-carding any diseased, scarredor insect-infested rhizomes.Store in moist peat moss in areasonably dry, well-venti-lated, dark area at 45 to 50 F.

Dahlia:The dahlia is a long-time

favorite of the garden. Thesecome in a wide height rangefrom dwarfs, 12 to 18 inchestall, to giants, up to 5 feettall. They also offer a widerange of flower color andexhibit several differentflower types. The mainadvantage which dahlias offeris continual flower displayfrom midsummer until frost.

The dahlia is planted fromeither a tuberous root or aseed-propagated plant. Mostof the seed-propagated dahl-ias are dwarf to medium-height cultivars. The tuberousroot-propagated cultivars aretaller and produce fewer butlarger flowers. The seedcultivars are commonly soldas bedding plants during thespring months. The cultivarsavailable as tuberous rootsare sold during the winterand spring months eitherthrough mail order catalogsor at garden centers. Whenpurchasing dahlia roots, lookfor a portion of the previousyear’s stem to still be at-tached to the clump. Thebuds for the current season’sgrowth form at the junctionCanna

Photo courtesy of All-American Selections

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of the roots and the stem.Both the seed-propagatedcultivars and the tuberousroots need to be planted in anarea where they will receiveat least six hours of sun eachday and are shaded from thehot afternoon sun. Whenplanting the seed-propagatedplants, set them in theground at the same depththey were in the beddingplant containers. On theother hand, the tuberousroots are planted 4 to 6 inchesdeep with the roots laid ontheir side. The tall-growingcultivars (those greater than 3feet) should be staked atplanting. The stakes shouldbe driven about 18 inchesinto the ground (12 inchesbelow the depth at which thetuberous roots were planted).

To encourage branching ofthe plant produced from thetuberous roots, the main stemis pruned (pinched) to re-move the terminal growingshoot when three sets ofleaves are developed. Plantsare given a second pinch

when the resulting newgrowth has three sets ofleaves. Mulch the bed to adepth of 3 to 4 inches to keepthe roots moist and cool.Remove all dead flowers toencourage continual bloomand prevent seed set.

Dahlias cannot survivefreezing winters. After thefirst light frost when there issome damage to the foliage,the roots should be dug andcleaned. After cleaning, anydiseased, scarred or insectinfested roots should bediscarded. The roots are thencut into growing sections fornext season. Keep a portionof the stem on each rootclump. The clumps are storedin moist peat moss, sawdust,vermiculite or perlite at atemperature of 35 to 40 Fthrough the winter. Rootsshould be checked periodi-cally to make sure they arenot shriveled from water loss.If roots shrivel, sprouting willbe adversely affected.

Gladiolus:The gladiolus is a popular

“summer-flowering bulb”that is really a corm. Thecorms are sized based ondiameter. Large corms (1 1/ 4

inches in diameter or greater)are the most expensive andare commonly used for com-mercial production of cutgladiolus. The medium-sizecorms, 3/ 4 to 11/ 4 inches indiameter, are commonly usedfor gardens.

Classes of gladiolus basedupon flower size are:

1. giants with florets greaterthan 51/ 2 inches,

2. large with florets 41/ 2 to 51/ 2

inches,3. medium with florets 31/ 2 to

41/ 2 inches,4. small with florets 21/ 2 to

31/ 2 inches and5. mini with florets less than

21/ 2 inches.

The giant and large florettypes are considered too largefor the average garden andare normally grown by gladi-

Dahlia

Gladiolus

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olus fanciers or those grow-ing gladiolus for flower showcompetition.

Since the gladiolus willonly produce one floweringstem from each corm, startplanting in the early spring insuccessive plantings at two-week intervals, and endingno later than 60 days prior tofrost. This will give continualflowers in the garden fromabout the middle of summeruntil frost. At planting, besure to stake tall cultivars andsupport flower stalks toprevent toppling. Drive thestakes into the ground atplanting, taking care to avoiddamaging the corms.

Since the gladiolus is atender corm, it will need tobe dug in autumn prior tofrost. Dig the corms on abright sunny day, which willbe good for accelerating thedrying process. The stalk iscut flush with the corm. Thecorms are dried outdoorsduring the day and movedindoors to an area that isabout 80 F and well-venti-lated. When the old cormseparates easily from thenewly produced corm (thiswill take about one to twoweeks before separationoccurs), gently pry themapart and discard the oldcorm. Sort and discard anydiseased or scarred corms,and then dry at 80 F for onemore week. Once cured, thecorms should be stored in awell-ventilated area at 40 Fthrough the winter.

Maintenance ofGeophytes

For those hardy geo-phytes, there are a few main-tenance practices to encour-age continued vigor andhealth of the storage struc-tures and maintain floraldisplay: fertilization, dead-heading and division.

Use a balanced fertilizerwith a N-P 2O5-K2O ratio of1:3:1 or 1:3:2. Bonemeal is agood organic fertilizer forbulbs, since it has the desiredratio of low nitrogen to highphosphorus. It is importantto use a low-nitrogen fertil-izer whenever bulbous plantsare being fertilized. High Nwill result in bulb decay.Follow the recommendedrates on the package. Fertil-izer can be applied when theplants are flowering and theroots are actively growing.Fertilizer is also applied in thefall when roots resumegrowth. Even though theabove-ground portion of theplant is dead, the below-ground portion is still activelygrowing and developing.These below-ground plantsstill need nutrients for growthand development.

Many bulbs set seedvery easily. Once the flowersare spent, cut the flowerstalks off as close to theground as possible withoutremoving the foliage. Dead-heading or flower removal isimportant to allow all nutri-ents and food to be chan-neled into the developingstorage structures.

Eventually a time willcome to divide, clean, sortand replant the geophytes.

The main indicators arereduced vigor, reduction inthe number of flowers andreduction in the size offoliage and flowers. Thelength of time betweendivisions will vary with theplant species and the desiresof the gardener. Somepeople will dig and dividebulbs on a regular basis;others will let nature take itscourse and divide only whenit is absolutely necessary.

Prior to digging thespring-flowering geophytes,the foliage should be allowedto die back naturally. At thispoint, the bulb should be tanto brown, indicating it ismature. It can be lifted andthe remains of dead foliageremoved to prevent harboringany disease and insects. Allplant material that showssigns of disease, insect ormechanical damage should bedestroyed. Also, any under-sized bulbs should be dis-carded, for they will notproduce a flower the nextyear. Once sorted andcleaned, bulbs are replantedinto prepared beds.

The summer-floweringgeophytes are divided, sortedand inspected normally afterthey finish flowering. Typi-cally this is done in Augustthrough mid-September forthe iris so reestablishmentcan occur prior to frost. Forthe lily, the bulbs are dugafter the plants have flow-ered. The stems do not haveto die back. Commonly, thelily bulb is lifted in very latesummer or early fall (lateAugust through September).

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Forcing Spring-Flowering Geophytesin the Home

It is possible to forcespring bulbs to flower out oftheir normal season. It justtakes some pots, growingmedia and refrigerator space(do not place potted plants inthe same refrigerator as youstore household foodstuffs).Tulips, daffodils, hyacinths,crocus, grape hyacinths andseveral other spring-floweringbulbs require approximately12 to 16 weeks of cold storageat about 33 to 40 F to satisfythe dormancy-breakingrequirement. Exposure to thisperiod of cold temperaturecauses many unseen changesto take place in the bulbs andcorms that allow the plants togrow and flower.

Bulb pans or azalea potsare preferred for forcing bulbsindoors. Bulb pans are veryshallow pots; the depth isequal to half the diameter.Azalea pots are deeper, withthe depth equal to three-quarters the pot diameter.

Other containers that areabout twice as deep as theheight of the bulbs and thathave drainage holes can alsobe used. Place a layer ofgrowing media in the pot. Setbulbs in the pot so the bulbsare touching each other andthe tips are just above the topof the pot. Finish filling thepot with growing media andallow about inch of headspace for watering. To makesure that the growing mediahas filled in around thebulbs, firmly tap the pot onthe table top to settle themedia. Add more media ifneeded. Add a pot label withthe type of bulb and cultivarname. Water well, allow todrain and then place in arefrigerator. You should beable to get from five to seventulip bulbs or two or threedouble-nosed daffodil orsingle-nosed hyacinth bulbsin a 6-inch diameter pot.

Try mixing bulbs in a potto have a spring garden. Addtulips, hyacinths and/ordaffodils together in a large8- or 10-inch bulb pan.

Partially cover the bulbs withgrowing media, and thenplace some of the minorbulbs such as crocus, grapehyacinth, squills or bulbousiris on top of the growingmedia and in among theother bulbs. Finish filling thecontainer with growingmedia. Water and place inthe refrigerator. Check thepots periodically to makesure they do not dry out.

When planting tulips forindoor forcing, remove thedry outer tunic. If the tunic isnot removed, the leaves maynot be able to grow throughit, since there is not enoughweight from the growingmedia to hold the tunic inplace. The tunic of daffodils,crocus, hyacinths and otherbulbs and corms does notneed to be removed. Also,you will notice tulips have aflat side to the bulb. This sideof the bulb should be placedfacing the outside edge of thepot. The first leaf thatemerges from the tulip bulbwill come from this side ofthe bulb. The leaf will thenhang over the edge of the potrather than get clustered inthe center.

After the necessary cold-storage period (see Table 1 forsome guidelines), bring thepots into a bright location in aroom that is around 60 to 65 F.At this point, you should seeroots coming out of thedrainage holes on the pot.Water well and within a fewdays you will begin to seesigns of growth.

1 Range indicates minimum and maximum number of weeks. If stored longer, it will be difficult to prevent growth while in storage.2 The longer the bulbs are stored, the less time it will take for them to flower.

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Forcing TenderGeophytes inthe Home

A few of the summer-and fall-flowering geo-phytes are not winter hardyand can be grown in potsfor flowering indoors fromDecember through March,depending on the plant.Plants that are commonlygrown in pots are amaryllis( Hippeastrum ), caladium,nerine and calla lily( Zantedeschia ). Following theguidelines for amaryllis willwork for most other tendergeophytes.

AmaryllisAmaryllis bulbs are gener-

ally available at garden storesby late November. Many mailorder catalogs also offeramaryllis bulbs. The amaryllisbulb is fairly large (up to 10inches in circumference). Usea 6- or 8-inch clay bulb or anazalea pot; the weight of theclay pot will help prevent thebulb from toppling over

when in flower. Place enoughgrowing media in the pot soat least 1/ 2 to 1/ 3 of the bulbremains above the growingmedia surface. Place the bulbon the surface, taking carenot to damage any roots thatmight have begun to grow.Fill in with additional grow-ing media to leave about 1/ 2

inch of headspace for water-ing. Water at planting butthen sparingly until sproutingoccurs. Keep the plant atabout 60 to 65 F for twoweeks to allow rooting. Afterrooting, place in a well-lighted area at about 70 to 75F until bloom. Growth shouldtake two to eight weeks.Once sprouted, water regu-larly to keep the growingmedia evenly moist.

Once the flowers havefaded, remove the individualflowers but leave the flowerstalk (this is green and willalso produce carbohydrates toincrease the size of the bulb).After the stalk becomesshriveled and yellow, it canbe removed. After flowering,

start fertilizing once a monthusing any houseplant fertil-izer following label directions.A liquid fertilizer is best, as itcan be applied when youwater the plant. Make surethe plant is well-watered andfertilized throughout thesummer growing season torebuild the bulb. Once thedanger of frost is past, thepotted bulb can be set outsidein full sun for the summer.Either just set the pot out,sink it into the ground orknock the bulb out of the potand plant it directly into theground. In the fall beforethere is a frost, bring the potback in or lift the bulbs fromthe garden and repot. Storein a cool (55F), dark place forat least eight weeks and stopwatering. After the restingperiod, cut off any foliagethat remains and move thepot into light and warm (70 to75 F) temperatures. Keep thesoil almost dry until newgrowth begins in two to eightweeks to start the floweringcycle over again.

1 3

Dictionary of Bulbous Plants

erutcurtsdnaemantnalPotemiT

tnalP tnalP tnalP tnalP tnalP 1

gnitnalPhtped htped htped htped htped

)sehcni( )sehcni( )sehcni( )sehcni( )sehcni(

gnirewolFnosaes nosaes nosaes nosaes nosaes 1

.A.D.S.UretniW retniW retniW retniW retniW

ssenidraH ssenidraH ssenidraH ssenidraH ssenidraHsenoZ senoZ senoZ senoZ senoZ

tnalPthgieh thgieh thgieh thgieh thgieh 2

(rolocibarehtnadicA nys )suhtnaillacsuloidalG. mroc,arehtnadica,

dnagiD.sreniatnocninworgebyaM.mrocsuloidalgehtekilerots

aM 3ot2 S-yJ 01&9 M

muillA blubetacinut,snoinolatnemanro,seiceps

("6foegnarthgieH mulihpoero.A '3ot)( muetnagig.A otdeensmuillarellaT.)

smuillallaT."3nahtrepeeddetnalpeb.srewolftucdoogekamosla

iihpotsirhc.A noinotnaignahtretrohssiegral:srewolftsegralehtsahdna

.retemaidnisehcni21otpuserehpsiihpotsirhc.A

muetnagig.A noinotnaig,ylom.A noinowolley,

mulihpoero.A,mulahpecoreahps.A muillakcitsmurd

SSSSS

36333

uJ-aMuJ

yJ-uJyJ-aMyJ-aM

8ot38ot58ot38ot48ot5

MTLLM

adnalbenomenA rebut,srewolfdniwnaicerG,

.gnitnalperofebthginrevosrebutkaoSerasenomenarehtoynamelihwydraH

dooG.srewolfgnirpsylraeyreV.tonsnedragdnaldoowrof

S 2 pA-F 9ot5 L

airanorocenomenA rebut,rewolfdniw,

.gnitnalperofebthginrevosrebutkaoSrehtosatnarelottaehroydrahsatoN

tucrotnalpdettopasaesU.senomenatassomtaepyrdnierotS.rewolf

F55ot05

aM,pA 2 uJ-aM 9ot6 M

sisnenihcadnacmaleB emozihrcihpromyhcap,ylilyrrebkcalb,

kcalb,devomertonerasrewolfdedaffIsahsihT.sdribtcarttahcihwmrofdees

lartnecehtninoitazilarutanotdaelehtotevitaneurT.setatSdetinU

.tneirO

S 2ot1 S-yJ 8ot5 T

1 ;S,rebmetpeS;uA,tsuguA;yJ,yluJ;uJ,enuJ;aM,yaM;pA,lirpA;M,hcraM;F,yraurbeF;J,yraunaJ.D,rebmeceD;N,rebmevoN;O,rebotcO

2 .llatteef8ot3=T;llatteef2/12ot1=M;llattoof1nahtssel=L

1 4









munalutrohmuidalaC .nyS( C. rolocib rebut,muidalac,)

erasrebutecnisstopnisroodnidetratSerofebllafehtnigidotdeeN.ydrahtonot04tassomtaepyrdnierotsdnatsorf

.F54

F 3ot2 11ot8 M

hsamauqaissamaC blubetacinut,ssamac,

pmadsetareloT.tnalpnaciremAevitaNllewsasegdednopdnasgob,swodaem

egailofekilssarG.sliosyalcyvaehsa-llebworraneulbfosemecarhtiw

.noisividsdeenyleraR.srewolfdepahs

O,S 4 uJ-aM 8ot4 M

silarenegannaC emozihrcihpromyhcap,annac,

dnasgob,swodaempmadsetareloTsravitlucfrawdwenynaM.segdednoperaegailofdetageiravhtiwsravitlucdna

.decudortnignieb deenhtrondna6enoZtataeptsiomnierotsdnallafehtnigidot

.F05ot04

aM 3ot2 O-yJ 11ot7 T

eailiculaxodonoihC blubetacinut,wons-eht-fo-yrolg,

erastnalpecnissgnitnalpssamnitseB.gnizilarutanrofdooG.llamsylemertxe

.edividdnagidotdeenoN

O,S 4 aM-pA 8ot3 L

,elanmutuamucihcloC mroc,sucorcnmutua,norffaswodaem

seiddnagnirpsehtnisegremeegailoFehtnisrewolfneht,yluJfodneehtyb

daerpsdnasrewolfehtnodeefstnA.llaf.snedragkcorotdetiuS.sdeeseht

uA 8 N-S 9ot3 L

silajamairallavnoC emozihrcihpromotpel,yellav-eht-fo-ylil,

tignikam,semozihrybyldiparsdaerpS.edahsehtrofrevocdnuorgtnellecxena

nacdnatnargarfylemertxeerasrewolFeratiurfepirnU.rewolftucasadesueb

.netaeficixot

pA 1 uJ-aM 7ot2 L



1 5









arolfiimsocorcxaimsocorC mroc,aiterbtnom,

.liosdeniard-llewdnatsiomninuslluFowtyreveediviD.rewolftuctnellecxE

niatnuomrehgihtA.sraeyeerhtotllafehtnigidotdeenyam,snoitavele

.suloidalgsaemaserotsdna

aM 3ot2 S-yJ 01ot6 T

sucorC mroc,sucorc,sdirbyhdnaseiceps

larevesfosdirbyherasucorcynaMeraseicepssucorcemoS.seiceps

.gnirewolf-llafsucorC sdirbyh

susoiceps.CSaM

4ot34ot3

pAO-S

01ot401ot4

LL

ailhaD toorsuorebut,ailhadnedrag,sdirbyh

sadesuebnaC.launnanasadetaerTguderastoorsuorebutehT.rewolftuc

tsiomniderotsdnatsorfthgilaretfa.F04ot53tassomtaep

aM,pA 6 O-uJ 01ot8 MT

silameyhsihtnarE toorsuorebut,etinocaretniw,

erofebstoorsuorebutdeirdkaoSnislioscinagro,hcirsreferP.gnitnalp

.hsilbatseotwolS.edahslaitrapemocdnasmets"3noraeppasmoolB.yldiparsesaercnI.egailofehterofeb

O 3 M-J 8ot4 L

mudiblamuinorhtyrE ;teloivhtoots'godetihw, munacirema.E ;yliltuort, mucinrofilac.E nwaf,.E;ylil sinac-sned mroc,teloivhtoots'god,

llA.S.UotevitaneraseicepslareveSnislioscinagroylhgih,tsiomnitsebod

kradebotsdnetegailoF.edahslaitrap.yrevlisdelttomdnaneerg gidtonoD

.dliwehtmorf .dliwehtmorf .dliwehtmorf .dliwehtmorf .dliwehtmorf ehtsisinac-sned.E.edividotdeenoN.hsilbatseottseisae

S 3 aM-M 01ot5 L



1 6









airallitirF blubetacinut,seiceps

.srewolfgnikirtslausunU sirgaelem.Fredlimniylpitlumdnaezilarutanlliw

slepertahtrodoluofevahsbluB.senoz-imesnislioscinagro,hcirdeeN.stsep

.edahs,silairepmi.F lairepminworc

sirgaelem.F nehaeniug,ylilderekcehc,rewolf

SS

63

aMA-M

7ot48ot4

TL

silavinsuhtnalaG blubetacinut,pordwons,

tsiomfotnareloT.gnirpsfongisylraEnoitazilarutanroftnellecxE.slios

.edahssekaT.sburhsdnaseertrednu

O 3 pA 9ot2 L

suloidalG mroc,suloidalg,sdirbyh

egailofnehwgid;launnanasadetaerTnaniF04tasgabhsemnierots;seid

srewolF.noitalucricriadooghtiwaerasadesu;sekipsevitarocednienrobera

.rewolftuca

aM 6ot4 S-yJ 01&9 MT

sillacoremeH toorsuorebut,ylilyad,sdirbyh

snosaesdnasthgieh,srolocsuoremuN,selbuoddnaselgnis;moolbfo

.sepytgnirewolfer

S-aM 6 uA-uJ 9ot4 MT

murtsaeppiH blubetacinut,sillyrama,sdirbyh

ehtfoflahhtiwstopwollahsnitnalPstoP.aidemgniworgehtevobablub

ehtgnirudsroodtuotesebyam.remmus

D-S --- F-D 01&9 T

sucinapsihsediohtnicayH .nyS(, atalunapmacallicS,sucinapsihnoimydnE ;sllebeulbhsinapS,)sutpircs-non.H .nyS( sutpircs-nonnoimydnE blubetacinut,htnicayhdoow,)

rosnedragkcor,sredrobrofdooGfoegnarediwotstpadA.gnizilarutan

.rewolftucdooG.ydrahyreV.slios

O 4ot3 uJ-aM 01ot3 M



1 7









silatneirosuhtnicayH blubetacinut,htnicayh,

nehwtseB.ecnargarfteewsyreVdnetsbluB.sredrobrosdebnidessam

sraeyowtroenoretfaetaroiretedotlluF.sliosdeniardylroopniyllaicepse

yamelpoep21nienotuobA.nusehtmorfpasehtfihsarniksapoleved.niksdesopxestcatnocsmetsrosblub

O 8ot6 pA 8ot4 L

murolfinunoiehpI blubetacinut,aieletirt,rewolfratsgnirps,

wolleyhtiwrewolfeulbetacileDsidnallafnisegremeegailoF.sretnec

taerG.retniwehthguorhttnetsisrep.snedragkcordnagnizilarutanrof

.dedworcnehwtsebseoD

O,S 3ot2 pA 01ot5 L

sirI emozihrcihpromyhcap,siridedraeb,sdirbyh

ebnaC.elbaliavasravitlucsuoremuNebotdeenesehT.rewolftucasadesu

lliW.raeyhtruofyrevetuobadedivid.semozihrehtnisrerobsiriteg

S,uA 2ot1 uJ-aM 01ot3 M

,avlufsirI emozihrcihpromyhcap,siridirbyhanaisiuoL

nisgobdnahsrammorfstnalptsuboR.setatSdetinUlartneceht

S 2ot1 yJ-uJ 01ot5 T

atasnesirI dna ,atagiveal.I emozihrcihpromyhcap,siriesenapaJ

sanetfosaedividotdeentonoDesoohcotsravitlucreweF.siridedraeb

"lanigram"rocitauqasaesU.morfdesuebnaC.stnalp)syawretawgnola(

.rewolftucasa

S 1 yJ-uJ 01ot5 T

atalucitersirI blubetacinut,siridetten,

brutsidotdeenoN.sirignirewolfylraErellams,sraeylarevesrofgnitnalp

roftaerG.llatsehcni2/12tuoba,stnalp.snedragkcor

S 4 M 9-3 L



1 8


tnalP 1

gnitnalPhtped

)sehcni(

gnirewolFnosaes 1

.A.D.S.UretniW

ssenidraHsenoZ

tnalPthgieh 2

,aeniugnas.IxaciribissirI emozihrcihpromyhcap,sirinairebiS

.dedividyltneuqerfebotdeentonoD.rewolftucasadesuebnaC

S 1 uJ 8ot3 T

,munrevmujocueL blubetacinut,ekalfwonsgnirps

.snoitacolpmadniworglliW.llewsezilarutaN

O,S 4 pA-M 9ot4 L

muiliL sblubylacs,ylil,sdirbyhdnaseiceps

ereht,snoisividlarutlucitroheninhtiWdirbyhdnaseicepssuoremunera

smrofrewolf,srolocsuoirav,sravitluctucdoogekaM.sthgiehtnalpdna

.srewolf

O,S 01ot4 uA-uJ 8ot4 T

epoiriL seiceps , emozihrcihpromotpel,frutylil

ekil-ssargevobasekipsnosrewolFnatotneerg-wolleysnruttahtegailof

yrdfotnareloT.retniwehthguorht.edahsehtnifislios atacips.L setarelot

.sliosretsiomdnaedahsrepeedatacips.L frut-ylilgnipeerc,iracsum.L frut-ylileulbgib,

S-aMS-aM

22

uA-yJuA-yJ

01ot401ot5

LL

aregimauqssirocyL elcarim,napaJ-fo-ylil-cigam,sillyramanmutua,ylilnoitcerruser,ydaldekan,,ylil ataidar.L blubetacinut,ylilredipsder,ylilredips,

gnirpsehtniylraesegremeegailoF.kcabseidnehtslidoffadehthtiw

dnatnetsisreP.remmusetalnisrewolFoN.edahslaitraP.llewsezilarutan

.edividotdeen

uJ 6 uA 9ot4 M

mucainemrairacsuM ,htnicayheparg, mueruza.M , sedioyrtob.M ,htnicayhepargnailatI,blubetacinut

sblubllamsehtfonommoctsoM.llewsezilarutaN.snedragninworg

eulb,etihw:elbaliavasravitluclareveS.srewolfelbuoddna

O,S 3 uJ-aM 9ot4 L



1 9









sussicraN etacinut,sussicrandnasussicrans'teop,sliuqnoj,slidoffad,sravitlucdnaseicepssblub

fosessalc21ehT sussicraN ybdeifitnediehtdnayteicoSlarutlucitroHlayoRehtnodesaberayteicoSlidoffaDnaciremA

sarolocdnaezishtnairepdnaanorocfoseicepssallew sussicraN :etoN.

nidlehebdluohsslidoffadtucylhserfsruohwefarofreniatnocetarapesecnatsbusymilsaeduxeyehtecnis

fohtaederutamerpnitlusernachcihwrospilutekilsrewolftucrehto

.senomena

S 8 aM-pA 8ot3 LM

,iinedwobenireN blubetacinut,eniren

egailofhtiwllafehtnisrewolFstsisrepegailoF.retfanoosgnigreme

ehtnikcabseiddnaretniwhguorht.6enoZniydrahyllanigraM.gnirps

yJ,uJ 2ot1 S-uA 01ot7 M

mutallebmumulagohtinrO blubetacinut,mehelhteB-fo-rats,

.worgotysaednaydrahylemetxEnehwepirtsneerghtiwsrewolfetihW

;gnizilarutanrofdooG.dubnimorfdnablubehttayldiparseilpitlum

.sdees

O,S 3ot2 aM-pA 01ot4 M

,acirebisallicS blubetacinut,lliuqsnairebiS

.gnizilarutanrosredrob,sdebrofdooG.sdeesmorfdaerpslliW

O 3 aM-pA 9ot1 L

aetulaigrebnretS blubetacinut,lidoffadretniw,sucorcllaf,

6enoZnihcluM.gnizilarutanrofdooG.lavivrusretniwfosecnahcesaercniot

.6enoZniydrahyllanigraM

yJ,uJ 4 O-S 01ot7 L

muillirT emozihrcihpromotpel,niborekaw,ylildoow,muillirt,seiceps

,tsiomotdetpadarewolfdliwevitaN.snedragydahsdnaslioscinagro

.dliwehtmorfgidtonoD

O 3ot2 uJ-pA 01ot4 M



2 0









apiluT blubetacinut,pilut,sdirbyhdnaseiceps

gnirewolfnodesaberasessalc51ehT-trohS.seicepsdnaepahsrewolf,emit

eerhtroowtyrevetnalper;blubdevilfoytilauqehtnopugnidnepedsraey

tucdoogekaM.derisedyalpsid.srewolf

O,S 8 uJ-aM 8ot3 LM

aihcsedetnaZ emozihrcihpromyhcap,ylilallac,seiceps

sroodnidetratS tesneht,stophcni-6ni.yltneuqerfezilitreF.nedragehtotni

gudebdluohS.srewolftucdoogekaM.stopnirosannacsaderotsdna

fotaehehtnillatsyamgnirewolF.remmus

pA,M 4ot3 yJ-uJ 01&9 MT

sehtnaryhpeZ blubetacinut,ylilniar,rewolfryhpez,seiceps

llafhguorhtremmus-dimrewolFebnaC.seicepsnopugnidneped

otralimiseldnah(stopninworg,sillyrama murtsaeppiH yllanigraM.)

.6enoZniydrah

O,S 4 O-yJ 01ot7 L



2 1

The Bulb SelectorFor Moist Situations

Caladium CamassiaCanna ConvallariaErythronium LeucojumZantedeschia

For Light to Partial Shade

Allium Anemone (woodlandspecies)

Caladium CamassiaEranthus ErythroniumFri ti l l aria GalanthusHyacinthoides IpheionLeucojum LycorisMuscari OrnithogalumSci l la Zantedeschia

For Woodland

Allium CamassiaConvallaria ErythroniumGalanthus HyacinthoidesIphion LeucojumSci l la

For the Mixed Border

Acidanthera AlliumAnemone BelamcandaCamassia CannaCrocosmia DahliaFri ti l l aria GladiolusHyacinthus HyacinthoidesIris LeucojumLilium LycorisMuscari NarcissusOrnithogalum S ci l laTulipa Zephyranthes

For Feature Plantingsand Landscape Groups

Acidanthera AnemoneBelamcanda CaladiumCamassia CannaCrocosmia CrocusDahlia F ri ti l l ariaGladiolus HippeastrumHyacinthus I risLilium LycorisNarcissus Tulipa

For Naturalizing

Allium CamassiaChionodoxa ColchicumConvallaria CrocusEranthus ErythroniumFritillaria meleagris GalanthusHyacinthoides LeucojumLilium LycorisMuscari NarcissusOrnithogalum S ci l laTulipa

For the Rock Gardens

Allium moly Anemone blandaCamassia ChionodoxaColchicum CrocusEranthus ErythroniumFritillaria meleagris GalanthusIpheion LeucojumLilium MuscariNarcissus S ci l laTulipa Zephyranthes

For Container Gardening

Caladium HippeastrumNerine Zandeschia

For Fragrance

Acidanthera ConvallariaHyacinthus IpheionIris LiliumNarcissus (Poet’s and jonquil cultivars)Ornithogalum

For Cut Flowers

Allium AnemoneBelamcanda Caladium*Canna* ConvallariaCrocosmia DahliaGladiolus HyacinthusLilium LycorisMuscari NarcissusNerine OrnithogalumTulipa Zantedeschia*

*Indicates decorative foliage

2 2

Mail Order SourcesSeveral mail order catalogs that supply seeds and plants also offer bulb catalogs. Firmsspecializing in bulbs and bulbous plants include the following. Other firms also specialize inbulbs; no endorsement is intended nor is any criticism implied of similar firms not men-tioned.

McClure & Zimmerman108 W. WinnebagoP.O. Box 368Friesland, WI 53935Phone:920/326-4220Fax:800/692-5864

The Daffodil Mart7463 Heath TrailGloucester, VA 23061Phone:800/ALL-BULB800/255-2858Fax:800/420-2852

Van Engelem, Inc.23 Tulip Dr.Bantam, CT 06750Phone:860/567-8734Fax:860/567-5323

2 3

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2 4

PB1610-5M-10/98 E12-2015-00-207-98A State Partner in the Cooperative Extension System

The Agricultural Extension Service offers its programs to all eligible personsregardless of race, color, national origin, sex or disability and is an Equal Opportunity Employer.

COOPERATIVE EXTENSION WORK IN AGRICULTURE AND HOME ECONOMICS The University of Tennessee Institute of Agriculture, U.S. Department of Agriculture,

and county governments cooperating in furtherance of Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914. Agricultural Extension Service

Billy G. Hicks, Dean

Documents

Flowering Bulbs