Flavor Magazine Jan/Feb 2011

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cultivating the capital foodshedseasonal | local | sustainable | artisanal

fl avormags .com

Zen and the Art of Winegrowingby Jim Law

Charcuterie The Cure for WhAT Ails You

The Inn at Little Washington’s Patrick O’Connell

and other top local chefs let us peek into their drawers

ExclusivE!ExcErpt from

JoEl’s salatin’s nEw Book

The Sheer Ecstasy of Being a Lunatic Farmer

skinny Girl’s Got Nothing on herPS7’s Gina Chersevani’s Lo-Cal Cocktails

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NOV / DEC 2010


fl avormags .com


Zen and the Art of Winegrowingby Jim Law

Charcuterie The Cure for WhAT Ails You

The Inn at Little Washington’s

Patrick O’Connelland other top

local chefs let us peek into their drawers

ExclusivE!ExcErpt from

JoEl’s salatin’s nEw Book

The Sheer Ecstasy of Being a Lunatic Farmer

skinny Girl’s Got Nothing on herPS7’s Gina Chersevani’s Lo-Cal Cocktails

Rockville • College Park • Alexandria Columbia East • Frederick • Bowie

Coming Soon!Timonium

Cheri & Martin Woodard Fine Country Properties

Cheri and Martin Woodard have a passion for marketing fine country properties in Rap-pahannock County. Buyers and sellers have discovered our talent for finding the perfect match of property and client. Because our outstanding advertising and marketing captures the essence of exceptional properties, we have attracted a wealth of quality buyers. For this reason, many sellers have requested that we handle their properties privately, with no adver-tising. Contact us for a tour of fine country homes, land and other intriguing properties.

WWW.CHERIWOODARD.COM [email protected] 540-987-8500Roy Wheeler Realty Co. Sperryville, VA 22740

EARLY CHILDHOOD PROGRAM

For boys and girls ages two and a half to fiveDiscovery and delight are found in a gentle, supportive, child-

centered environment. Enriching activities encourage children to be creative, self-confident learners. Our core belief is respect and confidence within oneself leads to happiness and contentment in

the outer world.

Belle Meade School provides an environment that encourages confidence, creativity, and responsibility in its students through a program which integrates academic excellence, mentoring, community, and sustainable living. Grades 6 - 12.

bellemeadeschool.org • 540-987-8970

Belle Meade Farm specializes in pastured livestock raised without hormones or antibiotics, including cows, pigs, chickens, laying hens, and turkeys, as well as organic vegetables. Here at Belle Meade, all of our animal products are free-range and the beef is grass-fed.

Our restored Victorian farmhouse is on 138 acres of fields, woods, and streams in a beautiful valley surrounded by mountains. Whole

house rentals, group retreats, and longer stays are available. We love it here and think you will too.

school

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bed & Breakfast

sg_winterad__fullpage_final-OL.indd 1 11/23/10 1:30 PM

mags.com JAN / FEB 20114 mags.com 5JAN / FEB 2011

26Capital Charcuterie: Locally Grown & GroundWe think the perfect gift is edible, locally made, and available online, so it can be shared with friends and family both near and far.Zora Margolis

36Small Is OkayIn this exclusive excerpt from his new book, The Sheer Ecstasy of Being a Lunatic Farmer, Joel Salatin argues that localized, multi-speciated, pasture-based farms can feed the world.Joel Salatin

FeaTureSFind the table of contents for

Terroir, our drink section, on page 55.

THoRNToN RiVeR GRiLLe & Sperryville Corner Store

Gourmet restaurant and market specializing in local produce, meat,

beer and wine.

Thornton River Grillewww.thortonrivergrille.com

540.987.8790Tues-Sat: lunch and dinnerSun: brunch and dinner

Sperryville Corner Store

540.987.8185open daily

3710 Sperryville PikeSperryville, VA

3626

columnS

in every iSSue

deParTmenTSTHE BUTCHER’S BLOCK

THE BUTCHER’S BLOCK

A M A R K E T B Y R W

1 6 0 0 K i n g S t r e e t , A l e x a n d r i a , V A • 7 0 3 - 8 9 4 - 5 2 5 3 • w w w . b u t c h e r s b l o c k r w . c o m

We are strong supporters of the slow food movement and our shop stocks from local farms such as Martin’s Angus Beef, EcoFriendly Farms, and Chapel Hill Farms.

BUTCHER SHOP • WINE SHOP • GOURMET FOOD SHOP

occasionscaterers.com202.546.7400

Local Ingredients. Transformed.


10 local graZingS

Happenings on the Foodie FrontFrom donuts to chimichurri, from food systems to sous vide, we’ve got news for you.And Green Grazings, too, because it’s not just about food.MELISSA FLYNN

18 Flavor caFÉ

Restaurant 3This Clarendon restaurant is getting attention for its farm-to-table menu, but the house-made bacon may steal the spotlight.PAMELA HESS

22 arTiSanS & enTrePreneurS

High-Tech Production, Timeless FlavorsWith two state-of-the-art organic greenhouses, Shenandoah Growers is bringing fresh herbs to the mid-Atlantic region and demonstrating how to grow commercial quantities of local, organic food effi ciently.KIRSTEN PARMER

31 on locaTion

WintergreenA quick guide to Wintergreen for locavores and “locapours.”JENNIFER CONRAD SEIDEL

32 Flavor caFÉ

Poppy Hill Tuscan KitchenSmall-town values plus big city experience equals a farm-to-table success story for Fredericksburg’s Poppy Hill Tuscan Kitchen.GAYLE PRICE

40

These Are a Few of Chefs’ Favorite ThingsNone of us needs more kitchen clutter, be we do need tools that make cooking at home more enjoyable and effi cient. These farm-to-table chefs weigh in on the best picks.KATIE MCCASKEY & JENNIFER CONRAD SEIDEL

44 SeaSonal TaBle

Embracing Winter With Soulful Food These seven recipes bring out winter’s earthy, robust fl avors.SYLVIE ROWAND

8 From the Publisher 9 Letters from Readers & Eaters 50 The Guest List 80 Advertiser Directory & Recipe Index

Photo of desserts at the inn at little Washington taken by molly mcdonald Peterson.

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NOV / DEC 2010

flavormags.com


eDiTorJennifer Conrad Seidel

EdIToRIAl AssIsTAnTMelissa Flynn

PRoofREAdERLaura Merricks

ART dIRECToRAaron Gill

dIRECToR of PHoToGRAPHyMolly McDonald Peterson

AssIsTAnT PHoToGRAPHERLaura Merricks

ART & PRodUCTIon MAnAGERAnnie Arnest

suBsCriPTioNs & ADVerTisiNGA one-year, six-issue subscription is $32.

Send subscription and advertising inquiries to

flavor Magazine, Inc.P.O. Box 100Sperryville, VA 22740

voice (540) 987-9299fax (540) 518-9190

info@fl avormags.comwww.fl avormags.com

Copyright ©2011 by Flavor Mag-azine, Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permis-sion of the publisher is prohib-ited. Flavor is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts and photographs.

PuBlisherMelissa J. Harris

sEnIoR ACCoUnT EXECUTIVEErica Gentile-Hussar

ACCoUnT EXECUTIVEsMaureen Alexander, Kerry Jo Brooks, Wendy Gray, Stephanie Williams

offICE MAnAGERKim McKiernan

CIRCUlATIon & dIsTRIBUTIonAlex Harris, Christopher Harris

AdVIsoRy BoARdMatt Benson, Marian Burros, Sherri Fickel, Stephanie Williams, Michel Heitstuman, Kevin Kraditor, Jim Law, Bernie Prince, Maggie Rogers, John Fox Sullivan, Chad Zakaib

Join us on facebook! Find a link at fl avormags.com

Issue no. 14

Flavor is an independent, bimonthly publication and is not af� liated with any nation-ally franchised publications.

One might think January and February are slow months on the local food scene, but I would disagree. I happen to think of the winter months as some of the most productive

months in my year. It’s time to plan next season’s garden, enjoy your canned and frozen harvest while remembering the warm summer months, and one of the best times to share a meal with family and friends. Granted, there are fewer fresh fruits and vegetables to be had

and many of the farmers markets are closed. But even so, it is a fantastic time to experiment in your own kitchen or even hit some of the hot local-food restaurants and see what creative chefs are cooking up during the less-fertile months.

In this issue, we invite you to take a peek into some of the most sought after kitchen drawers in the Capital foodshed (page 40) and to meet some D.C. chefs who are making their charcuterie available through retailers and farmers markets (page 26). We also spent some time with two very different restaurants that are keeping us local all winter long: Poppy Hill in Fredericksburg (page 32) and Restaurant 3 in Arlington (page 18).

Many of you may miss our Rebel with a Cause column this issue, but we actually have more of Joel Salatin in this issue, not less—

you’ll fi nd an excerpt from his new book on page 36. And we think you’ll get a kick from all the times charcuterie and bacon are mentioned in these pages. See if you can count them!

We have a big announcement: Beginning with the next issue, contributor Pam Hess will become our new editor, and Jennifer Conrad Seidel will move to a new position as editor-at-large. Pam is an award-winning career journalist who covered the wars in Iraq and Afghanistan for United Press International and was the intelligence and national security correspondent for the Associated Press from 2007 to 2010. (We hope her new position with Flavor will be slightly less eventful.) She can often be found shopping at the Eastern Market, near her home in the Capitol Hill neighborhood.

Finally, I would personally like to thank you for the outpouring of support through subscriptions and retail sales of the Nov./Dec. 2010 issue. Our readers continue to inspire all of us here to keep doing what we do and bring you the best stories this foodshed has to offer.

Melissa J. Harris

from the publisher from readers & eaters

Kudos on the stellar job with the new local magazine. I just wanted to let you

know I am now a buyer of your magazine, in no small part because of your spectacu-lar photography. That cover shot of the veal calf last issue [Aug./Sep. 2010] was a mag-nifi cent one. “Had me from hello.”

The journalism is indeed good quality, but the photos get your readers’ immediate attention at newsstands—requisite for build-ing your subscriptions!Best regards and best of luck,Barb KavanaghWoodville, Virginia

Thank you, Barb. That photo was taken by Molly McDonald Peterson, whose work has graced most of our covers. We completely agree that her photography is spectacular! One of her photos won the Piedmont Environmental Council’s recent photo contest and is featured in the PEC’s 2011 calendar, available with a donation at pecva.org.—the Editor

Joel Salatin’s column “‘Local’ and ‘Gourmet’

Does Not a Viable Res-taurant Make” [in the Nov./Dec. 2010 issue] de-serves a response titled, “‘Local’ and ‘Small’ Does Not a Viable Farmer Make”!

Mr. Salatin seems to be making a sim-plistic and oh-so-convenient rationalization that because he has been stiffed by a few customers (three total) who have gone out of business, he is entitled to charge higher prices.

I have no respect for this kind of excuse-making. Years ago, organic farmers used to use similar rationalizations when selling poor-quality produce—exclaiming, “You can’t expect great-looking organic produce because we can’t use chemicals like the big conventional farmers can.” Well, big organic farm operations such as Cal Organic and Lady Moon have proven that theory wrong, as have some stellar smaller local operators such as One Straw Farm.

While some local farmers offer excellent product at fair prices, I cringe when we at

MOM’s get a delivery from a local farmer whose products are expensive, small, or not handled with proper re-frigeration. I don’t want to put such products up for sale at our stores, as it tarnishes “local” products in general.

A local farmer who doesn’t run an effi cient operation, hence having to pass along the lack of effi ciencies to the consumers in the form of higher prices, needs to look in the mirror be-fore casting blame on external factors.Scott NashCEO, MOM’s Organic Market

JOEL SALATIN RESPONDS: Excuse mak-ing? Please reread the article, Scott. I’m not making any excuses. All I’m doing is suggesting that just because a restau-rant calls itself organic and local does not mean it has a trustworthy business plan or treats its farmers well.

I presented the article as simply a fact of life. Too often consumers listen to the buzzwords and assume all is well, and sometimes it is not. And if you’ll check our prices, you’ll notice they are the lowest of similar products in the mid-Atlantic region.

This was simply an informational article. The fact that all businesses get taken once in awhile is a fact of life, but it is particularly inappropri-

ate when done by a business that touts itself as taking care of local responsibili-ties. Too many people fawn over a slick brochure or language without realizing it’s easy to talk but hard to walk. And misperceptions are rampant.

As to slick packaging and blemish-free industrial global organic trumping real-life local, I can only respond that this shows incredible snobbishness and lack of understanding about econom-ics, ecology, and local food. This is ex-actly why industrial global organics can never actually displace industrial global mechanical food. But local could, can, and should.

To contribute to this discussion or to see other comments on Joel Salatin’s columns, visit fl avormags.com.

Send letters, suggestions, and questions to editor@fl avormags.com

local grazings local grazings

melissa Flynn

on the Foodie Front

HAPPEnInGs

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chef christopher edwards of the restaurant at Patowmack Farm


a looK aT nova’S Food SySTem A new report titled, “local food system Assessment for northern Virginia” has been released by FamilyFarmed.org in conjunction with the Wallace Center at Winrock International and funded by the Triskeles Foundation. The purpose of the study—which assesses the feasibility of building a successful aggregation and distribution system in the area around Washington, D.C.—is to offer insight to the business community and to promote the development of a local food system. The report is available online.

local food system Assessment for northern Virginia

www.familyfarmed.org/virginia-food-system-assessment-released

Zee PerFecT SauSage Richmond’s Chris Mattera and Brad Hemp have a long history working in the artisan food business: Mattera is a graduate of Le Cordon Bleu in Paris and studied under a third-generation Tuscan butcher before managing Belmont Butchery for the last four years; Hemp spent the last few years working as a cheesemonger and wine buyer for several area retailers. Together, they formed sausage Craft, combining their talents to create small-batch sausages, terrines, bacons, all-beef hot dogs, and other products to sell wholesale to area restaurants and retailers. Striving to use the best ingredients available, they source locally raised, humanely raised animals and all-natural casings, and everything is free of hormones, antibiotics, and preservatives.

sausage Craft (804) 354-0672, sausagecraft.com

HoT daTeSThe Chesapeake Alliance for Sustainable Agriculture (CASA) will hold its 12th-annual future Harvest-CAsA Conference at the Pearlstone Center and Kayam Farm in Reisterstown, Maryland, January 14–15, 2011. This conference is an anticipated yearly event for farmers, food-systems advocates, agricultural experts, and researchers who seek to learn and share information about sustainability in the Chesapeake watershed. Workshops and speakers will teach effective sustainable farming techniques, how to better market farm products, and how to build your community around a strong local food system.

The Pennsylvania Association for Sustainable Agriculture (PASA) will hold its 20th-annual farming for the future Conference, February 2–5, 2011 in State College, Pennsylvania. This conference, regarded as the best of its kind on the East Coast, seeks to bring together over 2,000 farmers, students, consumers, environmentalists, and community leaders. Wes Jackson, founder of the Land Institute, an organization devoted to developing stable agriculture, will be a keynote speaker.

D.C.’s Field to Fork Network—a group of organizations working in the area to foster regional change in how we approach food—will hold its annual Rooting dC forum on Saturday, February 19, 2011. This free urban-gardening forum seeks to build communities through gardening and greening, share information and resources about gardening, provide opportunity for gardeners to focus on specifi c areas of interest within the city, create a database of community-based garden projects, and keep gardeners connected.

farming for the future www.pasafarming.org

Rooting dC forum fi eldtoforknetwork.org/rootingdc

The future Harvest-CAsA Conference www.futureharvestcasa.org

SeiZe THaT donuT!Matt Rohdie and his wife, Jen Downey, have been making from-scratch organic donuts since 2007, offering their delectable treats to customers in and around Charlottesville. Traveling to local fairs, concerts, and other events in their mobile donut truck, called Gypsy, Rohdie and Downey strive to create a sublime donut-eating experience for their customers. The donuts are made with local apple cider, and used frying oil is converted into biofuel. Carpe donut recently expanded to a storefront location in Charlottesville, and the owners are working toward a contract with 26 Whole Foods stores throughout the mid-Atlantic region. Soon, these delicious confections will be available to donut lovers up and down the East Coast.

Carpe donut (434) 806-6202, carpedonut.argon.org

WHo needS grocery SToreS?A new online buyers club is making it easier for those southwest of Richmond to get the freshest and best foods of the region. off the Vine Market, owned by Tess Schaffner, offers local delicacies and food direct from over 100 regional family farms. Sign up for a subscription and a “grab bag” of seasonal items will be put together for you each week, or shop a la carte on the website for items ranging from grass-fed meats, organic produce, eggs, artisan cheeses, and prepared meals. Pick-ups are arranged at specifi ed locations; a delivery service is also available.

seasonal Pantry is a D.C.-based business founded by Ali Bagheri and Daniel O’Brien, passionate locavores who want to bring seasonal, artisanal items to the Shaw neighborhood where they reside. Each month a different club is created based on what chef O’Brien fi nds in season. Past clubs included a soup club, an ice cream club, and a sausage club. About 500 members already participate, picking up orders twice a month at a specifi ed location. The owners are looking for a space to set up a small retail market and sandwich shop.

off the Vine Market 757-879-2242, www.offthevinemarket.com

seasonal Pantry www.seasonalpantry.com

livin’ la vida loveTTeSvilleJason Lage is the award-winning chef behind Market Table Bistro in Lovettesville, Virginia, a new farm-to-table restaurant in the heart of Loudoun County wine country. Originally from Minnesota, Lage has an impressive resume including time at the Lansdowne Resort, D.C.’s Jefferson Hotel, The Oval Room, and Michel Bras, a Michelin three-star restaurant in France. He is joined by business partner Rebecca Dudley, also from the Lansdowne Resort. The restaurant, which is situated in the heart of the agricultural community, aims to form relationships with local farmers and purveyors who supply the restaurant.

Lovettsville’s The Restaurant at Patowmack farm was named Culinary Restaurant of the Year at the 2010 Santé Restaurant Awards, the only peer-judged restaurant competition in the country. Patowmack Farm began in 1986 when owners Beverly Morton Billand and Chuck Billand started growing fresh herbs and specialty vegetables. In 1998, the restaurant opened and has since been recognized for its commitment to farm-to-table dining and its elegant and delicious cuisine.

Market Table Bistro (540) 822-3008,

www.markettablebistro.com

The Restaurant at Patowmack farm (540) 822-9017, www.

patowmackfarm.com

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chef christopher edwards of the restaurant at Patowmack Farm

local grazings local grazings


Thank you for supporting local farms!

w w w . T o i g o o r c h a r d s . c o m

Toigo Orchards750 South Mtn. Estates Rd. • Shippensburg, Pa 17257

Fresh - Local - Seasonal

qFine Fare for Winter Comfort

Premium Farmstead Southern Appalachian & Piedmont Cheese Washed Rind, Soft or Surface Ripened Using Winter Milk

Nourishing Winter Soups, Stews,Hearty Savories & Panini to Counter the Cold

Delectable Farmhouse Confections & Baked Goods

q

“Winter is the time for comfort, for good food and warmth, for the touch of a friendly hand and for a talk beside the fire…” Edith Sitwell

Mercantile & Garden337 Gay Street

Washington, Virginia 22747

Cheeses, Savories, Meats & Farmhouse Foods

Winter Market7155 Wisconsin Avenue

Bethesda, Maryland 20814

For hours, special events & location information, please visit www.stonymangourmetfarmer.com or call 540-860-9090

Is this your cup of tea?

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Drink ina world ofnews and issuespeople and culture

wmra.org

cHeFS on THe moveThe Red Hen, Lexington, Virginia’s fi rst farm-to-table restaurant, is proud to welcome new executive chef Collin Donnelly and his wife, Amanda Bertschi, an accomplished

pastry chef and sommelier. Both are graduates of the New England Culinary Institute, and Donnelly worked most recently at Blackberry Farm, a Relais and Châteaux resort in Walland, Tennessee. The Red Hen has gained praise for showcasing the bounty of local farmers in the Shenandoah region by creating a new menu each day based on what is fresh and in season. The wine list also focuses on vineyards that use organic and biodynamic practices to create “natural wines.”

Dean Maupin, previously of the Clifton Inn, has taken the reins as executive chef at fossett’s at Keswick Hall outside Charlottesville. An Albemarle County native, Maupin’s culinary resume includes time at the Greenbrier Hotel, Metropolitan Restaurant in Charlottesville, and Tra Vigne Restaurant in California.

Maupin takes over for Craig Hartman, who recently left Fossett’s to open the Barbeque Exchange in downtown Gordonsville, Virginia. Hartman and his wife, Donna, were inspired by pit masters they met over the years to open a real barbeque restaurant of their own. Meats are dry cured with secret-ingredient rubs and then cooked in a specialized wood-burning cooker. Side dishes at the quick-counter-style joint include freshly baked rolls, homemade baked beans, hushpuppies, housemade pickles, and collard greens.

The Red Hen (540) 464-4401, www.redhenlex.com

fossett’s (434) 979-3440, www.keswick.com

The Barbeque Exchange (540) 832-0227, bbqex.com

anoTHer Source oF HeaT For THe WinTer monTHSKate Collier and Eric Gertner, owners of Feast in Charlottesville, Virginia, have started another business to create and sell Gaucho Green Chimmi-Churri. The recipe, developed by Collier’s father, is based on classic chimichurri—a green sauce usually made of parsley, cilantro, vinegar, and hot peppers, originally used by the gauchos of Latin America to tenderize their beef. Gaucho Green blends organic parsley and cilantro with extra virgin olive oil, red wine vinegar, garlic, and a number of other ingredients and spices to create a truly unique take on the classic sauce. It can be used as a marinade, a dipping sauce (just add sour cream), or a condiment. Find Gaucho Green at Williams-Sonoma, Whole Foods Markets, or online.

Several years ago, D.C.’s Brennan Proctor was put in charge of making hot wings for a potluck. Disappointed with most of the sauces he tried, Proctor created his own recipe—and his wings were a hit. Friends and colleagues were soon asking him to bottle his delicious hot sauce, and by 2003 he was selling his Uncle Brutha’s Gourmet Hot sauces at Eastern Market. Always made with fresh ingredients—including chilies, garlic, ginger, and various spices—these sauces have no preservatives or artificial ingredients. No. 9 is a zippy verde sauce made with serrano chiles, and No. 10 is a spicy red sauce with a depth and complexity not found in most traditional hot sauces.

Gaucho Green Chimmi-Churri www.gauchogreen.com

Uncle Brutha’s Gourmet Hot sauce (202) 546- 3473,

www.unclebrutha.com

liKe a luKeWarm HoT TuB?six Burner is known for being a great neighborhood restaurant in Richmond’s historic Fan District. Owned by Ry and Beth Marchant, and with chef Philip Denny at the helm, the restaurant prides itself on using seasonal, local ingredients in its menu and having an excellent, yet reasonably priced wine list.

Now, Six Burner fi nds itself at the forefront of a new movement in cooking, becoming the fi rst restaurant in Richmond approved by the state and local health departments to use the sous vide method of cooking. Sous vide is French for “under vacuum” and refers to a method of cooking in which food is sealed in air-tight plastic bags and submerged in warm temperature water to be cooked slowly. This method allows the chef to maintain the integrity of the ingredients, and the slow-cooking creates exceptionally tender meat and poultry.

six Burner Restaurant and Bar

(804) 353-4060, www.sixburner.net

chef collin donnelly and sommelier amanda Bertschi of the red Hen

Deliciously decadent chocolate, including organic and fair-trade selections Sensual massage oils Natural libido-enhancing supplements Earth-friendly Valentine’s Day cards Organic and sparkling wine Lavish bath salts, soaps, and lotions Romantic aromatherapy candles Gift Cards available!

a healthy dose of romance this season...

Barracks Rd. Shopping Center M-F 9-8, Sat & Sun 10-6 434-977-1965

www.RebeccasNaturalFood.com

EVERONA DAIRYAged sheeps milk cheeses

Nutty, complex tasteLook for prize-winning Piedmont,

Stony Man (like Pecorino) Shanandoah (a Swiss style) Blue Ridge or Skyline (the camembert one with blue outside), and the specialty herb or pepper ones

Pride of Bacchus, a wine soaked cheese, ready soon!

Ph: 540-854-4159Email: everona@husghesAt Feast, Cheesetique, Kybecca,

Whole Foods Vienna and Georgetown, many farmers’ markets, and discerning

area restaurants.

Cultivating the Capital Foodshed

Subscribe Today


WonderFul WaTercolorSArtist and botanical illustrator Lara Call Gastinger, a Charlottesville resident, produces detailed images of the natural world—paying particular attention to the small details of plants, from seed pods to roots, leaves, and fl owers. Currently the chief illustrator for the Flora of Virginia Project, Gastinger works to create portraits that show plants’ unique attributes and the beauty of the botanical world. Watercolors are for sale or commission, and she is now selling greeting cards with her breathtaking images through her Etsy store.

lara Call Gastinger Botanical Art & Illustration

www.etsy.com/people/LaraCallGastinger

www.laracallgastinger.com

SuPPorT local arTiSTSTaking a cue from the Buy Fresh, Buy Local movement, some art lovers in Charlottesville have created Buy Art, Give Art—a campaign to create awareness about local artists’ work. The campaign points people to directories of local artists and helps promote venues where local art is displayed and sold. Keep an eye open for the Buy Art Give Art logo at stores throughout the area.

Buy Art, Give Art

buyartgiveart.com

Home-groWn SHirTSGreen Label Organic: Sustainable Threads in Floyd, Virginia, was created about fi ve years ago by lifelong environmentalists George and Rain Lipson. Green Label seeks not only to provide top-quality T-shirts, but also to educate the community about organic farming and sustainable business practices. The company offers a colorful collection of 100 percent certifi ed organic cotton T-shirts made in the U.S.A. George, a long-time T-shirt designer, creates each piece to deliver an artful message about supporting the environment, fair-trade practices, or sustainability. The Lipsons donate a portion of their profi ts to a different charity each month. Products can be found at various Whole Foods Markets, at select apparel retailers throughout Virginia, and online.

Green label organic: sustainable Threads

(540) 745-6162, www.greenlabel.com


Restaurant 3

Northern Virginians familiar with the honky-tonk charms of Whitlows on Wilson might be surprised to discover its loca-vore cousin in Clarendon—Restaurant 3.

“We wanted to do something completely different,” said Jonathan Williams, who co-owns Restaurant 3 with his wife and her parents, who bought the original Whitlows in 1971. “This is the other side of the spectrum.”

Family TreeLike Restaurant 3’s, chef Brian Robinson’s culinary roots are hum-ble. A third-generation Washingtonian, Robinson’s first professional cooking job was at a suburban pizza place. From there he jumped to D.C.’s Georgia Brown’s, renowned for its modern Southern cui-sine. He became the chef at Whitlows— beloved for its live music, cold beer and Sunday brunch—in 1998. When the owners decided to open a third, more upscale restaurant, he started experimenting.

Restaurant 3 cures and smokes its own bacon from pork bellies sourced from three local farms. Its oysters—plump and fried crisp with black-eyed pea relish, brightened with lemon balm and pine-apple sage grown in chef Robinson’s home garden—are delivered by the oyster farmers themselves. Cherry Glen goat cheese is brought straight into the kitchen every Thursday by the man who makes it.

Third-generation Washingtonian Brian Robinson has made a menu based on what he wants to eat.

Pamela HessPhotos by Molly McDonald Peterson

you Had me aT BaconRobinson knew he wanted to serve as much food from local sources as possible at the new venture. Restaurants that tout the local prov-enance of their food can veer dangerously close to elitism, but in Robinson’s hands, it sounds more like populism. “We always wanted to support local, independent businesses because we’re local and independent ourselves,” he said.

The menu evolved into what it is—what he and his sous chef Sean Mooney most want to eat and cook, versus what they knew would

“sell”—after about a year of being open. Robinson subscribed to two separate farm shares so he could learn what was in season in the area as he began shaping his menu.

But the local sourcing, and the switch to house-made bacon, start-ed early, around month two. Bill Jones of Babes in the Woods, a pig farm in Dillwyn, Virginia, called. Would they be interested in buy-ing some of his pork?

The yes was instant. “We’ve always been pork centric,” explained Robinson.

Although Jones’s small farm couldn’t keep up with Robinson’s need for chops or roast, his “pork belly was less expensive, and he had plenty,” said Robinson.

The result is a meaty, salty-sweet marvel. “For three months we

restaurant 3 was opened by the owners of Whitlows on Wilson, who brought over chef Brian robinson (opposite, right).

flavor café


were making bacon and eating it all,” Robinson laughed. “But then we thought, we could use it rather than just eating it!”

It will soon be offered satay style on a stick, daubed with his “magic sauce” to satisfy the hordes who saw a Travel Channel fea-ture on his bacon in November and now come in to try it. Diners can also eat it wrapped around roasted pork loin, stuffed into a meat loaf with brie cheese, and as a topping on a beef and andouille sausage burger. They can drink it too: It fl avors vodka for a house specialty—a bacon Bloody Mary.

Sourcing aroundRestaurant 3’s grits are stone ground and come from Wade’s Mill, in Raphine, Virginia, a small outfi t Robinson learned about from a cor-porate food company’s sales rep. The grits make a nutty, toothsome bed for seared scallops with Asiago cheese and diced tasso ham. Robinson does not yet make his own tasso ham, but he has begun making pancetta and has a leg of prosciutto curing that should be ready in January.

On the recommendation of the nearby restaurant Willow, Robin-son also buys from Polyface Farms, perhaps Virginia’s best-known family farm and certainly a leader in the local-eating movement. His Sunday suppers almost always feature a protein from Polyface—a deal at $17 a head for a set entrée and three sides, served family style.

dreamS and realiTieSBut sourcing everything locally isn’t feasible. “In a perfect world, you would do all local. We’re blessed here by a long growing season.

But you can’t just eat greens all winter,” he said with a smile.Co-owner Jonathan Williams acknowledges that the economics of

serving local food can be a challenge. “A lot of people say they want an all organic meal but they don’t want to pay an extra two dollars for it,” he said. “But this is not a trend. It’s a movement, and people are coming to expect it.” Williams himself is sold on the farm-to-table concept and confesses to fantasies of buying a farm of his own with a restaurant attached to serve what he grows.

For now, however, he and Robinson have their hands full fi guring out what to do with what each season yields. Autumn is Robinson’s favorite time to cook. Summer produce doesn’t need much from a chef, just a quick turn on the grill or a sprinkle of salt and herbs. Cool-weather crops, though, require a chef’s creativity and the meat needs long, slow braises.

And one added bonus—this is when the pigs come in.

2 e a s t w a s h i n g t o n s t r e e t, m i d d l e b u r g , v a 2 0 1 1 7( 5 4 0 ) 6 8 7. 6 3 0 1 w w w. r e d f o x . c o m

Your Original Hunt Country Inn

Whether you are looking for a romantic getaway weekend, an intimate dining experience, or a classic venue for your special

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Pamela Hess became the editor of Flavor in January 2011. She was the Associated Press’s intelligence and national security correspondent from 2007 to 2010, covering the CIA, intelligence, torture, espionage, and foreign and military policy. Prior to joining AP, she was United Press International’s Pentagon correspondent and a war correspondent.

restaurant 32950 Clarendon Blvd., Arlington, VA

(703) 524-4440

www.restaurantthree.com

Scallops & Asiago GritsSERVES 4.

3 cups milk12 tablespoons (1 ½ sticks) butter, divided1 cup stone-ground grits1 teaspoon fi nely grated Asiago cheese¼ cup vegetable oil 12 large scallops, muscle removed¼ cup diced tasso ham¼ cup diced Roma tomato 3 tablespoons minced garlic½ cup white wine1 ½ cups clam juice Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste½ cup thinly sliced scallions In a saucepan, bring milk and 8 tablespoons (1 stick) butter to a boil. Slowly stir in grits, whisking constantly until they start to thicken. Reduce heat to low and continue to whisk until done, about 15 minutes. Whisk in Asiago cheese a few minutes before grits are fi nished.

In a large skillet (or in two batches using a medium skillet), heat oil over medium heat and sauté scallops until brown on one side, about 2 minutes. Turn scallops and add ham, tomato, and garlic; cook 1 more minute. Remove scallops from the skillet and set aside. Deglaze the skillet with white wine. Add clam juice, reduce heat to medium, and cook until liquid has reduced by one-third. Return scallops to the skillet. Add 4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter and season with salt and pepper. Spoon grits into a bowl and top with scallops, sauce, and scallions.

Find a recipe for restaurant 3’s bacon-infused vodka, which can be used in Bloody marys, at fl avormags.com.

ENHANCED

flavor café


ucked against the northernmost foothills of Harrisonburg, Virginia, sits Shenandoah Growers, an organic culinary herb company. Even during these gray winter days, state-of-the-art

greenhouses glow and the clean, summery smell of basil hangs thick in the cold air.

The artificial sun smiling down on the one-and-a-half acres of fledgling herbs in the largest greenhouse is controlled by a small weather vane perched atop one of the many warehouse buildings on the company’s compound. The instrument’s gadgets measure wind speed, joules of light, and precipitation and feed the information to a central computer. Based on parameters set to optimize growing condi-tions, the computer is constantly flipping switches to activate vents, turn on furnaces, adjust humidity, and control light exposure.

Before fresh herbs became a competitive market—back when barely 1 percent of the population was using fresh herbs in their

As Shenandoah Growers raises fresh herbs in state-of-the-art greenhouses, it promotes cooking from scratch and creates new jobs.

High-Tech Production, Timeless Flavors

cooking—the founding partners of Shenandoah Growers saw a niche to be filled. With family land and an order from the grocery chain Ukrops, the company launched in 1990.

innovaTive and organicAfter the unexpected death of one of the original founders, the remain-ing partner visited James Madison University in search of student as-sistants for a strategic-planning project. Timothy Heydon, who was then an MBA student, signed on and eventually became president and CEO, leading the company in double-digit growth year after year.

“What the company needed at the time I started was to distinguish itself from the competition,” says Heydon. “We consulted some of the best minds in the world on organic growing and ultimately brought this greenhouse system to the United States.” The system is the only one of its kind in the country.

TKirsten Parmer

Photos by Jill Taylor

Shenandoah growers’ president and ceo Timothy Heydon first joined the company as part of an mBa project while at James madison university.

artisans & entrepreneurs

mags.com JAN / FEB 201124

noT a Seed WaSTedIt starts with an automated seeding line, where pots are dropped into a nursery tray and filled with a proprietary blend of bio-logically active organic soil. A conveyor belt delivers the pots to the seeder, where a template drops seeds into the soil. The pots are then irrigated and sent to a dark and humid germination chamber. After three to fi ve days, the plants are moved to the main greenhouse, irrigated, and fertilized.Shenandoah Growers creates its own organic

fertilizer in an eco-friendly system for which it has the exclusive U.S. license. Plants take what fertilizer they need out of their growth trough. What remains is drained off, fi ltered, and reused. Everything stays within the greenhouse.

Once a plant is in the greenhouse, auto-matic harvesters advance the lines of herbs, moving the youngest plants through as the mature ones are harvested at the other end. Shenandoah Growers harvests and starts tens of thousands of plants each day. Trol-

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To learn about pairing wines with

herbs, read sommelier Mary

Watson-DeLauder’s “Herbal

infl uences” at fl avormags.com.

Shenandoah growersHarrisonburg, VA

www.shenandoahgrowers.com

www.freshherbs.com　

Kirsten Parmer is a freelance designer and writer and was a contributor to the Shenandoah Valley’s Eightyone Magazine.

leys with yellow sticky tape and hundreds of rubber fi ngers take troughs to the end of the line and brush the plants to simulate wind and help create compact, uniform, hearty plants. The trolleys’ sticky front panels catch those bugs not already eaten by inten-tionally released ladybugs.

local TieSThe company’s technological innovation and sustainable methods not only create uniform, high-quality plants year round, but also demonstrate one way of growing commercial quantities of fresh, local food. It would take nearly 50 acres of outside land to replicate what these four or fi ve acres of greenhouse space produce—and the green-houses run year-round.

Some product is grown outdoors, however. Of the 54 acres on the property, about 20 are currently in production. Several local organic family farms also grow as much as 25 percent of Shenandoah Growers’ weekly output during the summer. Working with

the company helps provide farmers with extra income and enables them to diversify their farms.

STrong groWTHThese days, less than 10 percent of consumers use fresh herbs on a regular basis; this rises to 40 percent on special occasions, like Thanksgiving. Even with the opening of a second greenhouse that doubled on-site productivity, Shenandoah Growers, which em-ploys more than 150 people, still has big growth potential for reaching new customers.

Because the company is committed to freshness and regional food, it ships only as far as their trucks can drive in a day. That means its products—from chives to edible fl owers to arugula—can be found in most supermarket chains throughout the mid-Atlantic. CEO Heydon and Philip Karp, vice president of sales and marketing, dream of replicating this production model in other locations across the country. “Maybe in 10 years, you’ll see us with a regional center in Indiana or California,” says Karp.

ENHANCED

This trolley promotes uniform growth by

gently touching the plants, and its sticky surface catches any

fl ying insects the intentionally released ladybugs left behind.

With the company’s recent expansion it now employs more than 150 people.

mags.com 25JAN / FEB 2011

artisans & entrepreneurs

Capital Charcuterie Locally Grown & Ground

If you want to bring locally made charcuterie home, you don’t need to ask for a doggy bag at the restaurant.

These chefs-turned-charcutiers have gone retail.

Zora margolisPhotos by Katharine Hauschka


Jamie STacHoWSKiSTACHOWSKI BRAND CHARCUTERIE Jamie Stachowski grew up in Buffalo, New York, in a large, ex-tended Polish family headed by his grandfather. As a young teen, Stachowski helped his grandfather make kielbasa in batches of up to 150 pounds at a time. Much of the garlicky pork sausage would go to family and friends, to be cooked and eaten fresh. Some was hung up to cure and dry in the cool, humid basement, to be sliced and eaten as a snack when the family gathered.

At 15, Stachowski got a part-time job in the kitchen of an Italian-American restaurant and liked it so much that at 16 he quit school

to work there full-time. He gained more experience working in fi ne-dining restaurants in Boston and Martha’s Vineyard. On a lark, he and some chef buddies headed to Los Angeles, where he spent four years working for chefs Joachim Splichal and Patrick Healy, among others, before moving on to New York and Le Perigord.

While still in his early twenties, Stachowski was summoned to D.C. by the legendary chef Jean-Louis Palladin, who mentored a whole generation of chefs, many whom are now celebrities (Eric Ripert and Michel Richard among them). For Stachowski, the most valuable of the many benefi ts garnered at Palladin’s Watergate restaurant was meeting his wife Carolyn, who was working in the front of the house. They’ve been married for 25 years and have a grown son.

The Stachowski’s opened Restaurant Kolumbia on K Street in D.C. in 2003. To provide a more varied bar menu and to manage his kitchen’s food costs, Stachowski began making charcuterie. Eventu-ally, Restaurant Kolumbia became well known for its butcher board, a generous array of house-made pâté, terrine, and cooked and cured sausages. When a new landlord bought out the restaurant’s lease in 2007, the restaurant closed.

Eventually, Stachowski found a way to do what he loves best: make charcuterie. These days, with his son at his side, he makes pâtés, terrines, and sausages (including kielbasa, of course) two or three days a week in a USDA-inspected butcher shop in Fairfax, Virginia.

Stachowski gets his meat from a variety of sources, including Kunstler Pork in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, and whole pigs from Papa Weaver’s Pork in Madison County, Virginia. He gets duck from La Bella Farm in New York’s Hudson Valley but is seeking a local producer.

He’s about to embark on a major new adventure: traveling around the country with a History Channel fi lm crew and interacting with farmers, ranchers, butchers, and chefs to create a two-hour docu-mentary, Meat America.

roBerT WiedmaierTHE BUTCHER’S BLOCKRobert Wiedmaier calls himself “a full-circle chef.” He comes by his old-school philosophy honestly. Raised in Germany by his Belgian father and American mother, he credits his mother for his passion for food. On road trips, they often stopped to dine at a Michelin two-star restaurant, Thermidor, in Hulst, Holland.

Wiedmaier’s mother told the restaurant’s chef of her son’s desire to become a chef, and Wiedmaier was soon enrolled in Holland’s Culinary School of Horca. He apprenticed at Thermidor and then worked under famed Brussels chef Eddie Van Maele before coming to the Washington, D.C., area in 1986 to cook in several of the area’s fi nest French restaurants.

European cooking academies and classical restaurant kitchens emphasize chefs’ butchering skills and the breaking down and use of whole animals, Wiedmaier explains, skills that were sorely lack-ing in American-trained chefs until very recently. Working with whole animals requires time, kitchen space, and trained staff, but the benefits include bones for making stocks, the foundation of soups and sauces; cuts for grilling, roasting, and braising; and plenty of fl avorful but less-tender meat to grind with fat and to fl avor with aromatics and spices for use in charcuterie.

In 1999, Wiedmaier opened his fi rst restaurant, Marcel’s, on Pennsylvania Avenue in Northwest D.C., and it has been consis-tently rated as one of the fi nest in the region. In 2007, he opened Brasserie Beck near McPherson Square; and soon after came Brabo and Brabo Tasting Room in Old Town Alexandria. At the Butcher’s Block, a retail venue next door to Brabo, Wiedmaier sells fresh sausages like bratwurst, Louisiana-style boudin, pâté de campagne, duck liver parfait and rillettes along with cheeses, wine, and gourmet groceries. He also sells veal stock made in-house and sausage casings for cooks who want to make their own sausages at home. Charcuterie sold at the Butcher’s Block is made in the Brabo kitchen by three chefs who have been trained by Wiedmaier.

Wiedmaier buys 25 Randall Lineback veal calves a year from Chapel Hill Farm in Middleburg, Virginia, to serve in his restau-rants and to use in his charcuterie. He buys Martin’s Angus Beef in The Plains, Virginia, pork from Eco-Friendly Foods in Moneta, Virginia, and all of the rabbits that Polyface Farms alum Matt Rales can raise at his of Grassential Farm in Potomac, Maryland.

naTHan andaRED APRON BUTCHERYNathan Anda is emblem-atic of the new generation of American chefs who value craftsmanship. Born in New Hampshire, Anda’s family relocated to Charlottesville, Virginia in 1996. Anda took a job at the Ivy Inn, cooking under chef Angelo Vange-lopoulos who then arranged several internships for Anda with chef Todd Gray at Equi-nox in D.C. The experience of making and tasting char-cuterie under the guidance

If you are an American over the age of 35, the closest you prob-ably ever got to charcuterie growing up was Oscar Mayer lunch meat. In those days, Americans may have heard of pâté de foie gras, but they had never tasted it.

In France, charcuterie has been considered a culinary art since the 15th century; the word charcuterie is derived from chair cuite, the cooking of meats. It refers to a variety of prepared, cured, and preserved meats and meat products: fresh and smoked sausage and salami, terrine, pâté, rillettes, confi t, galantine. As Americans trav-eled to Europe in greater numbers during the 1970s and 80s, they fell in love with the charcuterie they ate in bistros and took on picnics, and demand for these products increased at home.

During the same years, the training of many young American chefs began to include stints in restaurant kitchens in France, and these chefs returned to the states with the skills to make pâté and terrine. So-called house-made charcuterie can be found on menus of restaurants whose chefs obtain whole animals from local farmers and follow the nose-to-tail philosophy, an approach that is popular among locavores.

Until recently, however, most charcuterie has been imported from Europe or manufactured by large-scale producers in far-away states. Now, residents of the Capital foodshed don’t have to go to a restau-rant to fi nd locally made charcuterie of the highest quality.

These D.C.-area chefs are making a wide variety of world-class char-cuterie available for retail sale, using sustainably raised, local meat.

Jamie stachowski

robert Wiedmaier (left) and chef de cuisine chris Watson

nathan anda

CREATInG THE PERfECT CHARCUTERIE BoARd

For entertaining on a buffet table or for a casual afternoon snack with friends, a well -selected charcuterie board expresses the generosity of the host and makes an immensely satisfying group nosh, accompanied by beer, cocktails, or wine. According to chef and charcutier Jamie Stachowski, these fi ve basic elements make up a complete arrangement of charcuterie.

Include something spreadable, such as pâté, terrine, or rillettes. Go rustic with a campagne made of pork, or elegant with venison or quail, or luxuriant with some foie gras, duck, or chicken liver. Rillettes can be made with duck, pork, chicken, or rabbit.

Select one or two cured whole-muscle meats, sliced paper thin: prosciutto, speck, bresaola, country ham, or coppa.

Offer cured sausage in thin slices or bite-sized chunks: salami like Milanese, Toscana, fi nocchiona, or Genoa.

Also incorporate cooked sausage. Choose a small variety of grilled, sautéed, or roasted sausage served warm for temperature contrast cut into bite-size pieces: andouille, bratwurst, fresh chorizo, merguez, weisswurst, knackwurst; semi-cured Portuguese linguiça, smoked kielbasa. Or serve mortadella or salame cotto cold.

Provide a few condiments—whole-grain and Dijon mustards, cornichons or vinegar pickles, pickled vegetables, chutney, mostarda (a sweet-sour fruit-based Italian chutney), confi ted fruit, Cumberland sauce, saffron mayo, and lemon-garlic aioli. And don’t forget plenty of crusty bread, rustic sourdough or baguette, and pumpernickel.

Is your mouth watering yet?

When you’re on the mountain, take a look at the farm-to-table menu at the Devil’s Grill. New executive chef Josh Tomson is sourcing from local farms and artisans, including Shenandoah Growers, Dickie Brothers, Virginia Vinegar Works, Hungry Hill Farm, and Mountain View Farm. The restaurant may also have wine- and beer-pairing dinners during your visit.

If you plan to do some more exploring in the area, visit www.nelsonscenicloop.com to learn about the Nelson Scenic Loop and download the relevant Buy Fresh, Buy Local directories at buylocalvirginia.org.

’Tis the season for snow sports, and if you’re not able to make it to Vail or

Park City, you may be trying out Winter-green, a tad east of the Blue Ridge Parkway in Nelson County, Virginia.

If you’re looking to grab groceries to cook at your rental, stop at Greenwood Gourmet, just off Interstate 64 at exit 107, A.M. Fog (short for Afton Mountain Farm Market Orchard and Greenhouse) at the intersec-tion of Route 250 and Route 151, or Win-tergreen Grocers, just before the turn onto Route 664. These stores stock local and organic produce as well as local dairy and meat products. Greenwood Gourmet has an extensive selection of Virginia wine; A.M. Fog has online ordering, so your groceries are bagged and ready when you arrive; and Wintergreen Grocers carries Trager Broth-ers locally roasted coffee.

At the base of the mountain, you’ll find Wild Wolf Brewing Company, a brewery and home-brew supply store, and the Devils Backbone Brewing Company, which has a full restaurant and live music. These are some of the baker’s dozen of wineries and breweries in Nelson County that have been dubbed “the Red, White and Brew Trail.” Although Veritas Vineyard & Winery is open seven days a week, other wineries may have limited winter hours, so check their websites when you’re planning your trip.

Jennifer conrad Seidel

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A.M. fog9264 Critzer’s Shop Rd., Afton, VA

(540) 456.7100www.amfog.net

devil’s GrillWintergreen Resort

(434) 325-8100www.wintergreenresort.com

devils Backbone Brewing Company200 Mosbys Run, Roseland, VA

(434) 361-1001dbbrewingcompany.com

Greenwood Gourmet6701 Rockfi sh Gap Tpke., Crozet, VA

(540) 456-6431www.greenwoodgourmet.com

Veritas Vineyard & Winery151 Veritas Ln., Afton, VA

(540) 456-8000www.veritaswines.com

Wild Wolf Brewing Company2773 Rockfi sh Valley Hwy., Nellysford, VA

(434) 361-0088 www.wildwolfbeer.com

Wintergreen Grocers2184 Rockfi sh Valley Hwy., Nellysford, VA

(434) 361-2077

Here are tips for fi nding local food, wine, and beer when you’re hitting the slopes!

Wintergreen

To read articles about Blue Mountain Brewery, Devils Backbone Brewing Company, Hill Top Berry Farm and Winery, Virginia Vinegar Works, and Winemaker’s Notes written by winemakers from Veritas Vineyard and Winery and DelFosse vineyards, visit fl avormags.com/onlocation.

devils Backbone Brewing company

veritas vineyard & Winery

on location

ENHANCED

mags.com 31JAN / FEB 2011mags.com JAN / FEB 201130

ENHANCED

2773A Rock�ish Valley Hwy, Nellysford, VA | 434-361-0088 | www.WildWolfBeer.com

of these two veteran chefs convinced Anda that he wanted more formal culinary education—and that he wanted to learn more about the charcutier’s craft.

Anda enrolled at the New England Culinary Institute in Mont-pelier, Vermont, in 1999. It turned out there were only two to three weeks of charcuterie training during the two-year program, but he learned how to break down animals correctly. The butchery education was particularly useful when—after three years at Equi-nox—Anda began working with whole animals as head chef at Tallula and EatBar in Arlington in 2004. He furthered his knowl-edge by participating in a workshop on fermented and cured meat at Iowa State University and by interning at the Fatted Calf in San Francisco.

In 2008, Anda’s employers renovated Tallula’s large kitchen area, created a separate workspace, and added a walk-in refrigerator just for Anda’s use—enabling him to transition into full-time charcute-rie making under the Red Apron label. All of the meats used in Red Apron products are sustainably and humanely raised at local farms: pork from Eco-Friendly Foods; beef from Roseda Farm in Monkton, Maryland; beef and bison from New Frontier in Madison, Virginia; and veal and goat from Pipe Dreams Farm in Greencastle, Pennsylvania.

During the winter holiday season, pâtés and terrines are his most popular products, perfect for entertaining. During the summer? Hot dogs, of course. Bacon is a year-round hit. He also makes sausages and a variety of Italian-style salumi.

Stachowski Brand charcuteriewww.stachowskibrand.com

The Butcher’s Block www.braborestaurant.com

red apron Butcherywww.redapronbutchery.com

Find a complete charcuterie primer at fl avormags.com.

Zora margolis has lived in Washington, D.C., since 1996. She is a frequent contributor to Flavor and co-hosts the farmers market forum on www.donrockwell.com, D.C.’s popular food lovers’ discussion site.

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Poppy Hill Tuscan Kitchen is the star of Fredericksburg’s farm-to-table revival.

Poppy Hill Tuscan Kitchen can be hard to find. It’s nestled off to the side of Fredericksburg’s William Street and down some stairs. But although it is understated both inside and

out, it has a strong local presence and has even garnered national attention.

After distinguished restaurant careers in large cities, Ingrid and Scott Maher moved to this historic Virginia city in 2005 to focus on family and start their own business. The move brought them closer to relatives and to local farms and helped them realize their farm-to-table vision. They chose the location because it reminded them of the basement restaurants found in bigger cities like New York. But Poppy Hill, hidden away in a historic downtown area, has anything but a big-city feel.

Poppy Hill Tuscan Kitchen

THe BeST ingredienTSIn the beginning, they did a lot of sourcing for their foods online, says Ingrid, who runs the front of the house and selects the wines. Some favorite local farms include nearby Sneads Farm for vegetables, and Croftburn Farm in Culpeper and Mount Vernon Farm in Sperryville for meats; special purveyors also include Ryan Mooney, “the mushroom guy.” Now that Poppy Hill’s reputation has grown, farmers often come to them. While the Mahers have their customary sources for products, they point out that farmers will often show up with just-picked items for Scott, who is the chef. New dishes are often inspired by these items.

“Sometimes,” jokes Ingrid, “the universe just aligns properly,” and the items they want or need materialize. But not everything

gayle PricePhotos by Molly McDonald Peterson

ingrid and Scott maher chose to open their restaurant in Fredericksburg because it brought them closer to family and to farmers.

ingrid and Scott maher chose to open their restaurant in Fredericksburg because it brought them closer to family and to farmers.

flavor café

gayle Price is an avid cook, eater and food critic. When she’s not out eating, she can be found at home with her daughter, her boyfriend, a house full of pets, and a strong cocktail.


is always available to them, so what then? It’s not just about local ingredients, but also about offering the best ingredients available at the time. For example, Scott makes a house sausage so he has control of the ingredients, flavors, and quality. He has also worked on the house charcuterie creating pâté and duck confit.

SeaSonal inSPiraTionOffering seasonal items keeps prices at market value and new items on the menu. Patrons flock to the restaurant when pumpkin ravioli in a brown butter sauce with sage makes an appearance in the fall. A popular dish with locals, it is now available frozen for carry-out. Sunday-night gravy (which, for the uninitiated, is tomato sauce) made from fresh tomatoes and basil, short ribs, house-made Italian sausage, and meatballs served over Scott’s house-made pasta is also a menu staple. “Farm-to-table is a great match for Italian food,” Scott says.

What’s on the menu this winter? “Root vegetable purgatory,” Ingrid teases. In the cold months, Scott creates some warming, savory dishes: veal chops with espresso rub, osso bucco, polenta, and roasted root vegetable lasagna with pumpkin filling are just some of the things you can anticipate seeing on the menu.

celeBriTy & commiTmenTIn 2008, the restaurant gained national attention when the Epicurious website (associated with Bon Appétit and Gourmet) included Poppy Hill in its top 10 list of farm-to-table restaurants—an honor that, according to Ingrid, “brought more awareness of farm-to-table and sustainable foods” in and around Fredericksburg. It helps customers understand why Poppy Hill’s menu is the way it is and that, in turn, helps the core of their business continue to expand.

This commitment has been tested during the recent economic downturn, but the couple resolved to stay true to their philosophy

Poppy Hill Tuscan Kitchen1000 Charles St., Fredericksburg, VA

(540) 373-2035

www.ciaopoppyhill.com

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Mini Mushroom Galettes1 package puff pastry, thawed Olive oil1 pound mushrooms, brushed clean and quartered¼ red onion, slicedSalt and freshly cracked pepper 1 cup balsamic vinegar¼ cup sugar1 package of Boursin cheese A couple sprigs of fresh parsley, chopped

Lay thawed pastry out on a flat floured surface and cut out biscuit-size rounds. Bake rounds according to package directions. Set aside.

Over medium heat, coat a sauté pan with olive oil. Add mushrooms and sauté for 2 minutes. Add onion and cook for another 2 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.

In a sauce pan over medium-high heat, reduce balsamic vinegar by half and then add sugar. Bring mixture back up to a boil and then take off heat. Let cool slightly.

Place baked pastry rounds on a serving dish. Scoop mushroom mixture onto each shell. Top with a dollop of Boursin cheese; drizzle with balsamic reduction and finish with chopped parsley garnish. Serve immediately.

of doing business. Scott and Ingrid believe that “sticking to their cause” is the way to go. Their return customers understand quality food can be more expensive and have helped them reach the restaurant’s five-year anniversary.

So what does the future hold? “Creative growth,” answers Scott: continuing to branch out creatively, more focus on growing the charcuterie at the restaurant, and more product and selection available to local chefs on the whole. They believe in the next five years more will be understood about the link between a fit, healthy lifestyle and local foods—and they predict that their mission will become more the norm than the exception.

Scott shares stories about his grandmother, who made vinaigrette in her home kitchen long before it was in vogue to do so. Now the couple is sharing this family tradition with the future of their family and the locals in Fredericksburg. “Family is still the driver in our decision-making process,” adds the couple, who have small children.

Poppy Hill’s intimate dining room is in the basement of a historical building in downtown Fredericksburg.

Indulge your Inner Gourmet & Satisfy your Inner Green!

Serving the Community since 1975

www.bethesdacoop.org l 301-320-2530M-Sat 8:30-9 l Sun 8:30-8

6500 Seven Locks Road l Cabin John, MD 20818

Enjoy the Finest in Organic Local & Gourmet ProductsIntroducing Fine Wines & Microbrews-Organic Local Kosher, too!

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mags.com 37JAN / FEB 2011

Joel Salatin of Polyface Farms

proposes an alternative to

the Shenandoah Valley’s

poultry industry in this

exclusive excerpt

from his new

book.

Joel Salatin of Polyface Farms

proposes an alternative to

the Shenandoah Valley’s

poultry industry in this

exclusive excerpt

from his new

book.

Before industrialism, farms were localized and seasonal. The ebb and fl ow of production and activity followed a pattern dictated by local economies, weather, and avail-ability of nearby materials. . . .

Compare that to today’s confinement turkey industry, which started just 30 miles north of our farm in Harrisonburg, Virginia. The only reason the industry started there was because an entrepre-neur named Charles Wampler began raising turkeys in confi nement. Eventually the breeding program at the USDA research farm in Beltsville, Maryland, developed the double-breasted turkey. By that time, the pharmaceutical industry was up and running to supply cheap medications so that the birds could be kept alive in extremely unhealthy and unnatural conditions.

The entire industrial food system was only possible because of antibiotics for animals and pesticides for plants. Without those two things, these anti-nature pro-duction models would not ex-ist and humans would still be dependent on multi-speciation, intricate relationships, and in-digenous conditions. . . .

Today, this industry com-pletely dominates the local economy and community to the point that most people be-lieve it is the local economy. But it has a tainted underside that is worth examining. First, it requires hundreds and hun-dreds of farmers to grow these turkeys. In the wisdom of the business model, as a vertical integrator, the turkey com-pany owns the hatchery, the birds, the feed, the process-ing, and the marketing. The farmer signs a contract that requires him to supply a house and labor.

In many cases, since the farmers don’t have the money to build a $300,000 football-field-sized house, they mort-gage the farm to borrow the house construction money. Often, this is borrowed from the turkey company, thereby giving two income streams to the turkey company: interest on mortgage payments, and turkey sales. This arrangement converts the farmers from autonomous decision makers to a completely de-pendent class of people—dependent on exports, off-farm inputs, and outsourced decisions. . . .

The bottom line is that in my region, to disparage the poultry in-dustry is akin to assaulting America. Good patriots agree: not only is this poultry industry good for our local economy, it is in fact the

foundation of our local economy. And to suggest anything else is to hate your neighborhood. If you suggest we may have been better off without it, you’re in favor of massive unemployment, bread lines, and homelessness. In fact, you’re a lunatic who must be silenced. . . .

Nothing about the poultry industry generally and turkey indus-try particularly, as illustrated by Harrisonburg, is local. Most of the turkeys are not sold in Harrisonburg. Their feed does not come from Harrisonburg. The labor to process them does not come from Har-risonburg. The poop can’t be handled in Harrisonburg. The whole deal, top to bottom, has nothing to do with indigenous resources, markets, or labor.

And yet, for all this, farmers are still lining up to borrow money to build poultry houses, viewing industrial poultry as a panacea and an opportunity to hold onto their farms. It pollutes the community, upsets the neighbors, clogs the schools and prisons, and turns farm-

ers into serfs. Amazing. And the industry just keeps on building and growing as if in the per-fect world, every square foot of the Valley would be covered with a confinement poultry house and we would become a septic tank instead of just a toilet. . . .

Compare all we’ve talked about with the Polyface pas-tured poultry model. First, it’s seasonal. We aren’t burn-ing propane to keep chicken houses warm. When it’s hard enough keeping all the people warm in a community, isn’t it strange to be keeping chick-ens warm? We let the season dictate the production time frame. Over the years, many patrons have begged us to raise meat chickens (broilers) through the winter. We have steadfastly refused. First, it would take lots of energy to do so. Second, we want a break. . . .

But what about off season? That’s what freezers are for. And they are a lot cheaper to run in the winter than in the

summer. In areas where the winter would naturally shut down

pastured poultry production, the seasonal cold makes storing in freezers quite cheap. As ambient temperatures drop, the energy re-quirement to maintain freezing temperature is less. A lot less than trying to keep birds warm in the winter. And although the body heat generates signifi cant warmth, the birds must eat extra feed to have enough calories to give off heat.

We process right on the farm. No late night interstate travels,

Small is okaySmall is okay

Joel SalatinPhotos by Molly McDonald Peterson

Hundreds of amazing local, organic & artisanal foods to choose from.

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spreading feathers all over the countryside. What a strange thing, to process the birds right where they grew up. Shouldn’t they all have to go to a megalithic concrete monument to the stupidity of man in order to be readied for eaters? . . .

But doesn’t our system take way more land than the effi ciencies of confi nement factory houses? Not at all. In our system, the birds are out on grass, dropping their poop and eating grass plus grain. In the confi nement houses, their grain has to be produced somewhere and their poop has to go somewhere. Even if our birds didn’t eat any grass and consumed the same amount of grain, the land required to grow the grain would be the same per pound as it is in a confi ne-ment house. No land difference there. Everyone needs to understand that radiating out from every single confi nement animal operation, whether it be poultry, pork, beef, dairy, or guinea pig, an entire un-seen land base supports it. You don’t see the corn fi elds. You don’t see the corporate offi ces. You don’t see the manure-hauling trucks and the acres on which the manure is spread. Our pasture-based model actually takes less land than the industrial model.

But how can you feed the world? I think we just answered that. The land requirement is actually less. More acute is my presump-tion that globalist agriculture should simply not be practiced. We would actually have a stronger local economy, a stronger local social structure, a stronger local ecology, if Harrisonburg did not depend on exports to maintain its poultry empire. . . .

Certainly our localized, multi-speciated, pasture-based system re-quires more farms, more farmers, and more people scattered out across the landscape. But what is wrong with that? I can think of a lot worse situations to fi nd myself in than being cooped up on a farm (no pun intended). I may not make lots of money, but I sure have a great of-fi ce. Plenty of people cooped up in Dilbert cubicles working as cogs in a multinational corporate machine would give their eye teeth to be stuck on a farm if they felt like they could make a living on it. And that is partly what [my] book is all about. You can make a living on it, but you’ll need to think and act like a lunatic when compared to the presiding paradigms.

I think repopulating the countryside with loving stewards is a great aspiration. I think it might even be a good national security policy. So would populating our homes with lovers of domestic culinary arts.

What a joy to know that our farm isn’t dependent on foreign curren-cies and foreign resource streams. That it works right here, or anywhere. That it can empower a Kenyan tribe to feed themselves rather than make them dependent on my anti-community empire. That, folks, is the sheer ecstasy of being a lunatic farmer.

Excerpted with permission from The Sheer Ecstasy of Being a Lunatic Farmer, by Joel Salatin. Salatin—an internationally acclaimed farmer, conference speaker, and author—and his family operate Polyface Farms in Augusta County near Staunton, Virginia.


These Are a Few of Chefs’ Favorite Things

Katie mccaskey & Jennifer conrad Seidel

her pick in this price range. Wine bar owner Rebecca Thomas also has a pot on her list—a Mami stockpot ($190.00). “Every cook needs a good stock pot,” she says, “and this one will look great on the stove too.”

Tapas chef Rahal has a great slow-food pick—a Matfer stainless steel food mill (3 lb./min., $218.25). “This has been with me for many years and sees extensive service,” he says. “This does all my grinding and purees.”

Given this budget, Lund would choose not an appliance or a tool but a used copy of a hard-to-fi nd cookbook: Michel Bras’s Essential Cuisine, which runs about $350.00 new.

Restaurateur-farmer Will Richey says he “could not live without” his le Creuset french oven (3.5 qt., $255.00). The Capital Cooking Show’s DeSantis shares a similar sentiment, naming the le Creuset cast-iron buffet casserole (3.5 qt., $270.00) as

$200ishProducts with everyday application won out over unusual specialty items in this price range. These items are sure to see heavy use in any home kitchen. For example, writer Marian Bur-ros has her eye on a sodastream Penguin(starter kit, $199.00), a countertop appliance that transforms tap water into sparkling water or soda—great for personal use or for entertaining. Armstrong concurs: “Santa got one for my son Eamonn. It’s environmentally friendly and gives kids the ‘bubbles’ without the sugar in soda.”

called it a tie between a handheld metal citrus squeezer, such as the one made by Acmo ($11.00), and his Kuhn rikon garlic press ($20.00). “Both have served me for many years,” said Rahal, “and seldom need replacement.”

Lund also recommended another classic, a lodge seasoned 8-inch cast iron skillet ($16.95), saying he would never cook eggs in anything else. Cathal Armstrong of Restaurant Eve also included this in his list, saying, “Most people don’t have them, but they are the best. It’s the old fashioned way to cook. You never wash it, just wipe it out with water.”

($12.95), the choice of three chefs surveyed—cooking show host Lauren DeSantis, chef and restaurant owner James Ricciuti, and chef-turned-farmer Mike Peterson. Ricciuti says, “The Microplane is great for fi nishing a dish with citrus, ginger, fresh horseradish, or even hard cheeses.” According to Peterson, “It’s one of the items in my home and professional kitchen that is always out.”

Simple, high-quality tools were also on the list: culinary arts instructor and chef Mike Lund shouted-out his Kuhn rikon Pirhana swivel peeler ($8.00)—his is lime green. Tomas Rahal, chef-owner of Mas tapas bar,

Around $20 When asked to name a must-have item for under $20, five-star chef Patrick O’Connell chose a silpat silicone baking mat (12 x 16 inches, $28.99). “No kitchen should be without a Silpat. It still surprises me that many people don’t own one. I can’t re-member what we did without it.” This choice was seconded by DC chef and restaurant own-er Robert Wiedmaier.

Another inexpensive but indispensable kitchen tool is a Microplane zester-grater

These Are a Few of Chefs’ Favorite Things

Katie mccaskey & Jennifer conrad Seidel

Did you need ideas for how to spend the gift cards you received over the holidays? Did you make a New Year’s resolution to cook seasonally more often? Are you looking for something to give as a gift to the gourmet in your life?

To fi nd the best kitchen tools, gadgets, and appliances, we interviewed local food professionals throughout the Capital food shed. We asked them to

name a few of their favorite things.

Participating Chefs cathal armstrong, Restaurant Eve, Alexandria, VA

Jeff Black, Black Restaurant Group, DC

marian Burros, Food Writer & Cookbook Author, Bethesda, MD

lauren deSantis, Capital Cooking Show, DC

mike lund, Chef and Instructor, Staunton, VA

Patrick o’connell, The Inn at Little Washington, Washington, VA

mike Peterson, Chef and Farmer, Mount Vernon Farm, Sperryville, VA

Tomas rahal, Chef-Owner, Mas, Charlottesville, VA

James ricciuti, Chef-Owner, Ricciuti’s, Olney, MD

Will richey, Chef-Owner, Revolutionary Soup, Charlottesville, VA

donna Sharer, Toliver House, Orange, VA

vaughn Skaggs, Chef de Cuisine, Market Salamander, Middleburg, VA

rebecca Thomas, Chef-Owner, Kybecca, Fredericksburg, VA

robert Wiedmaier, Chef-Owner, Brasserie Beck, DC

le creuset French oven

SodaStream Penguin

lodge seasoned 8-inch cast iron skillet

Kuhn rikon Pirhana swivel peeler

microplane zester-grater


Let us ORCHESTRATE your dream.

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FERGUSON.COM©2010 Ferguson Enterprises, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Charlottesville North: 2325 Seminole Lane, Suite C-D (434) 817-1775

Harrisonburg: 1820 Eveyln Byrd Ave, Ste 170 (540) 438-6400

bellemeadeschool.org/[email protected] 540-987-9748Teacher - Lynne [email protected]

Belle Meade Early Childhood Program

For boys and girls ages 2 ½ through kindergarten. Children share discovery and delight in the outdoor natural world of the farm as well as in the classroom in a gentle, supportive, child-centered environment. Through exploration and balance of teacher-guided and self-selected activities we encourage creativity, self-confidence, respect for self and others. Monday & Thursday, 9am to 1pm. Bring lunch, water, and snack.

Early Childhood ProgramFor boys and girls ages 2 ½ through kindergarten. Children share discovery and delight in the outdoor natural world of the farm as well as in the classroom in a gentle, supportive, child-centered environment. Through exploration and balance of teacher-guided and self-selected activities we encourage creativity, self-confidence, respect for self and others. Monday & Thursday, 9am to 1pm. Bring lunch, water, and snack.

bellemeadeschool.org/earlychildhood

lunch, water, and snack.

Katie mccaskey is co-owner of George Bowers Grocery, a specialty grocery in Staunton, VA. Jennifer conrad Seidel is Flavor’s editor.

You can fi nd the recipe for The Inn at Little Washington’s chocolate crème brûlée (seen on the cover) at fl avormags.com.

Big dollarsWhen given up to $2,000 to spend, the most popular choice is a pro-fessional-grade food processor or mixer. O’Connell raves about the Vitamix Vita-Prep mixer ($560.00), which, he says, “has the ability to transform a soup or sauce, retaining its color and often eliminating the need for straining.” Peterson, who worked in fi ve-star restaurants before becoming a farmer, notes that the Blendtec Total Blender ($599.00) is a great choice for home cooks. Toliver House’s Donna Sharer says a Robot Coupe food processor (base model, $587.00) is well worth the money. Ricciuti’s wish list includes a Cuisinart mixer(without attachments, $299.00).

The other popular choice, recommended by both Rahal and Vaughn Skaggs of Market Salamander—is a warm-water circulating bath cooker, such as the sous Vide supreme ($500.00), which cooks vacuum-bagged food slowly and at a low temperature. Skaggs says, “Sous vide cooking extends the cooking process for hours without ruining the food, giving you more control and very tender meat.” Ra-hal explains that an immersion circulator is especially well-suited for cooking game like quail, partridge, and rabbit.

Jeff Black, chef-owner of several DC restaurants, says, “Every chef that sees a Weber ranch Kettle ($1,499.00) asks for one.” This “We-ber on steroids,” which has more than 1,000 square inches of cooking area, also meets Burros’s request for a large outdoor grill that takes wood and charcoal.

A few chefs dreamed even bigger: Armstrong says that if money were no obstacle, he’d have a Le Conroe custom-built, hand-assembled stove, which can cost tens of thousands of dollars. Ricciuti asked for a greenhouse to extend his growing season, and Lund voted for a John Boos butcher-block worktable, which can reach $3,000 but, he as-sures us, is worth every penny because it doubles as a kitchen island and can accommodate a 100-pound pig or your child’s art projects.

Weber ranch Kettle

Sous vide Supreme

cuisinart mixer

ENHANCED


Spicy roasted irish & Sweet Potato Wedges

ginger ice cream with Sautéed asian Pears

maple vanilla Bean Baked custard

roasted delicata Purée with roasted garlic

cider-roasted chicken with rosemary rub

Swiss chard gratin

Just because the weather is cold doesn’t mean you can’t eat fresh and local. Tomatoes, egg-plants, and strawberries may be gone, but

greens, tubers, and roots are plentiful. Hardy vegetables can be grown in the mid-Atlantic through the coldest months of the year; this area benefi ts from abundant sunlight in winter. With area farmers using unheated hoophouses to protect crops from wind and ice, we can enjoy a winter-long supply of just-picked produce. Other seasonal vegetables grown in summer or fall keep well in storage: onions, potatoes, winter squash, and dry beans, to name a few. While local fresh fruit is limited to apples and pears, the variety available is astonishing. Fruit and berries that were dried, frozen, or canned in summer are also an option. Although dairy and egg production decreases on those farms that let their animals slow down naturally—instead of forcing them to produce at artificially high levels—there is cheese, meat, fowl, butter, and lard to be had. And don’t forget all the locally produced fl ours, jams and pickles!

Embrace the earthy and robust fl avors of winter. Roast vegeta-bles to aromatic goodness. Braise a chuck roast until it falls apart. Weave fragrant spices into your cooking. Bake a chicken with local cider until its skin turns golden. Make silky or hearty soups. Fill the house with savory smells wafting from the kitchen, and gather friends and family around honest, delicious home-cooked food—for comfort and good cheer. No occasion needed.

These seasonal recipes combine winter products with easy-to-fi nd

aPPleS • arugula • aSian greenS • BeeTS • Broccoli • BruSSelS SProuTS • caBBage • cardoon • carroTS • cauliFloWer • celery

rooT • cilanTro • collardS • dry BeanS • endive • eScarole • garlic • green onionS • JeruSalem arTicHoKe • Kale • leeKS • leTTuce

macHe • microgreenS • muSHroomS • onionS • ParSley • ParSniPS • PearS • PoTaToeS • PumPKin • radiccHio • ruTaBaga • SalSiFi

ScorZona • SHalloTS • Sorrel • SPinacH • SWeeT PoTaTo • SWiSS cHard • TurniP greenS • TurniPS • WinTer radiSHeS • WinTer SQuaSH

in SeaSon

velvety Butternut apple Soup 46cider-roasted chicken with rosemary rub 46

Spicy roasted irish & Sweet Potato Wedges 47roasted delicata Purée with roasted garlic 48

Swiss chard gratin 48maple vanilla Bean Baked custard 48

ginger ice cream with Sautéed asian Pears 49

velvety Butternut apple Soup

emBracing WinTer WiTH SoulFul Food

seasonal table

spices. Simple enough for every day cooking, they can be dressed up for special occasions. Measurements can always be altered to your taste, and you should feel free to substitute ingredients to come up with your own version of the dish.

sylvie Rowand of Washington, Virginia, grows, forages, and preserves

food; cooks for others; and teaches the pleasure of growing your

own food and eating seasonally through workshops and her blog,

www.laughingduckgardens.com.

Sylvie rowand

mo

lly m. P

eTer

So

n


Velvety Butternut Apple SoupAlthough very creamy in texture, this velvety soup has no dairy. The secret? Slow-cooked onions, red potatoes, and a very good chick-en broth! And for a twist, use apples. There is indeed no reason to reserve apples only for dessert: their mild sweet-tart taste lightens up a savory dish very nicely and brings an ad-ditional layer of fl avor. To dress the soup up for a special occasion, drizzle a few drops of truffl e oil on top of each serving. Inhale. Sip.

SERVES 4 AS A LIGHT MAIN DISH, 8 AS AN APPETIZER.

1 medium butternut squash, about 2 pounds, halved lengthwise and seeds removed

2 large yellow onions, sliced

4 tablespoons olive oil

1 piece of ginger, about 1 inch long, peeled and minced

2 medium red potatoes, scrubbed

4 small apples (or 2 large) with a tart undertone, such as Rome or Pink Lady

2 quarts good-quality chicken broth, preferably homemade

Salt and pepper to taste

Drops of truffl e oil or pumpkin-seed oil(optional) for garnish

Preheat oven to 400 F. Place butternut squash face down in a shallow ovenproof dish with ¼ inch water at the bottom. Bake 20 to 30 min-utes, until fairly easily pierced. (It does not have to cook fully as it will cook more with the soup.) Remove from the oven, let cool until you can handle, peel the skin off, and cut in chunks.

While the squash is roasting, heat a thick-bottom Dutch oven on medium heat, add oil, and then add sliced onions. Lower heat and cook slowly for 20 to 30 minutes—the longer the better—stirring occasionally. (The onions should “sweat”—they should not brown, just become translucent and very limp. If they start to brown, lower the heat more, stir well, and add a little oil if necessary.)

Add ginger. Core, seed, and quarter apples and add to onions and ginger. Cut potatoes into small, even-sized chunks and add. Add squash chunks and broth. Increase heat and bring soup to a boil. Lower heat, cover, and simmer until potatoes are very tender, about 20 minutes.

Cool soup and, working in small batches, pu-rée in a blender, processing until smooth. Add additional hot broth or hot water as necessary to help puréeing. Taste, adding salt and pepper as desired. Return to pot and reheat to desired temperature. For a special touch, drizzle with a few drops of pumpkin-seed oil or truffl e oil.

Cider-Roasted Chicken with Rosemary RubSince I read Julia Child’s instructions on how to roast a chicken in From Julia Child’s Kitchen well over 15 years ago, I have never looked back. Julia’s formula to roast a 5-pound chicken takes 45 minutes (7 minutes per pound), plus a few extra min-utes (including 15 minutes in a hot oven), which always works for me. Spreading an herb-garlic paste under the chicken skin is a great way to add fl avor without fat, while the alcohol in the hard cider helps to brown the skin without butter. Perhaps use one of our local ciders in cooking—and then serve it to drink with the roasted fowl.

SERVES 6.1 tablespoon oil

1 medium onion, sliced

5-pound roasting chicken, preferably pasture-raised

5 gloves of garlic, peeled and inside green germ removed (if any)

1 tablespoon whole coriander seeds

2 sprigs of rosemary, leaves stripped from the stems and reserved

½ teaspoon whole peppercorns

½ teaspoon coarse sea salt

6 small, fi rm, tart apples, such as Granny Smith

1 cup hard cider, at room temperature

½ cup heavy cream (optional, if making gravy)

Preheat oven to 425 F.Oil a large ovenproof pan, arrange onion

slices at the bottom, and put chicken, breast side up, on top of the onions.

In a mortar and pestle, mash garlic, cori-ander, rosemary, peppercorns, and salt into paste. (If you do not have mortar and pestle, use a blender and add a little oil.) Starting at the cavity, carefully lift the chicken skin

all along the breast and the leg, sliding your fi ngers between the skin and the meat. Work carefully so you do not tear the skin. (This is much easier to do with a true free-range pas-tured chicken as the skin is more resilient and elastic than that of a chicken raised in confi ne-ment.) Smear the paste between the skin and the meat.

Roast chicken for 15 minutes. In the last few minutes of this initial cooking, core and halve the apples. Take chicken out of the oven, gen-tly pour cider over the breast, arrange apples around the chicken, and put it back in the oven. Lower oven temperature to 350 F and bake for another 65 to 75 minutes, until juices run clear or a meat thermometer stuck in the thickest part reads 165 F.

Baste the chicken with accumulated pan juices two or three times while it’s cooking. Af-ter removing it from the oven, let chicken rest for about 10 minutes under foil before carving.

To make gravy, carefully ladle out the ac-cumulated juices from the roasting pan into a small saucepan. Bring to a boil, and boil for about 5 minutes or until reduced by half. Add cream, bring to boil again, lower the heat, and simmer 5 minutes, until the sauce coats a

spoon.

Spicy Roasted Irish & Sweet Potato WedgesThey’ve got the name “potatoes” in com-mon, but they are not even closely related. Potatoes (aka Irish potatoes) originate from the Andes mountains and belong to the nightshade family, along with tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant. Sweet potatoes are closely related to morning glories and hail from tropical South America. Both tubers keep well for months, making them a staple of our winter cooking.

SERVES 4.3 tablespoons olive oil¼ teaspoon ground cumin ¼ teaspoon ground coriander1 teaspoon paprika⅛ teaspoon of cayenne powder½ teaspoon fresh thyme leaves

(or ¼ teaspoon dried)4 medium red-skinned potatoes, washed

and eyes removed4 small sweet potatoes, fairly round and

about same size as red-skinned pota-toes, washed and eyes removed

Seasonal menu using products from local and sustainable farms.

Featuring Polyface, BackField Farms & Planet Earth Diversified.

Creative, contemporary cuisine with service that is polished, knowledgeable, and friendly.

412 South Main StreetHarrisonburg, Virginia 22801

(540) 434-4464www.joshuawilton.com

www.theBigBadWoof.com Mon-Fri 10-8 • Sat-Sun 10-6

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seasonal table


Preheat oven to 400 F.Mix oil, spices, and thyme in a roasting

pan or rimmed cookie sheet.Peel potatoes if you wish. Pat dry and cut

into eight wedges each. Add them to the pan, turning to coat with spices and oil. (If you turn the potatoes by hand, wash your hands well to remove any trace of the cayenne pep-per.) Bake 30 to 40 minutes, until crisp and fully cooked, turning occasionally if neces-sary. Serve hot or warm.

Roasted Delicata Purée with Roasted GarlicDelicata are one of my favorite winter squashes: They are small, typically weigh-ing 1 to 2 pounds each, they cook fast, and they are perfect for small families or for when you just want a little bit of winter squash. Their thin skin is edible, so there is no need to peel them—just wash them well. This recipe works equally well as a side dish or as an unusual, tasty, low-fat dip. Just adjust the quantities down for a dip and sprinkle a few pepitas (roasted and shelled pumpkin seeds) on top.

SERVES 4 TO 6.

4 pounds delicata squash, scrubbed well, halved lengthwise, seeds removed 4 tablespoons olive oil4 plump garlic cloves, unpeeled¼ teaspoon cumin seeds (optional)⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper (optional)

Preheat oven to 400 F.Cut halved, seeded squash in wedges

about ¼-inch thick. Spread oil in a rimmed cookie sheet. Toss squash and garlic gloves with oil and spread one layer thick on the cookie sheet. Sprinkle with cumin if using. Bake until squash is tender and starting to brown, about 30 minutes.

Let cool slightly until you can handle com-fortably. Peel garlic cloves and put in food processor with squash and cayenne (if us-ing); process into a slightly chunky purée. Serve warm as a side dish; serve warm or cold as a dip.

Swiss Chard GratinI lived in Provence in my late teens and early 20s. There I learned to prepare Swiss chard and other potherbs by parboiling, squeezing the liquid out, and chopping them. They can then be refrigerated or frozen until ready to

use, be it in gratin, strata, stuffi ng, savory pies, or pasta. Today I even use Swiss chard in fajitas! Of course when you cook greens, their volume diminishes greatly so, no, two bunches of Swiss chard is not too much. If you want to omit the eggs, you can replace the custard with a béchamel sauce using butter, fl our, and milk.

SERVES 6.

1 tablespoon butter2 bunches Swiss chard, washed well 3 eggs1½ cups whole milk¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese¼ cup bread crumbsA tablespoon of olive oil (optional)

Preheat oven to 350 F. Butter a gratin dish and set aside. Pre-

pare a big bowl of ice or cold water.Bring a large pot of water to boil. Drop

chard, stems and all, in the boiling water; push chard with a long spoon down under the water. Bring to boil again and boil for 5 min-utes. Drain. Dump chard in cold water to cool. Let sit for a minute or so, and drain again. Repeat as necessary until cool enough that you can handle with your hands comfortably.

With your hands, squeeze as much liquid out of the chard as you can. Chop roughly and spread in the buttered gratin dish.

Mix together eggs and milk; pour over chard. Top with Parmesan and bread crumbs. Drizzle with olive oil if using. Bake until puffy and slightly brown on top, about 30 to 35 minutes.

Maple Vanilla Bean Baked CustardNothing can be simpler, and few foods are more comforting, than a good custard. It’s made with only a few ingredients, so get the freshest and best quality you can; it will really make a difference. Be sure to use maple syrup from Virginia’s Highland county, western Maryland, or Pennsyl-vania. And if you do not have a vanilla bean, replace with one teaspoon of real vanilla extract.

SERVES 4.

2 cups whole milk, preferably organic2 whole large eggs, preferably free-range ⅓ cup sugar, preferably raw 1 vanilla bean4 tablespoons maple syrup

Preheat oven to 300 F. Bring a few cups of water to boil in a kettle; this will be used to set the custard.

Warm milk in a thick-bottom saucepan un-til there are little bubbles on the edge of the pan (165–180 F). Meanwhile, whisk eggs and sugar in a large bowl. When milk is hot, pour it, very slowly at fi rst, into egg mixture, constant-ly whisking to avoid cooking the eggs. (Use a hand whisk. An electric whisk will cause the mixture to foam.)

Slice vanilla bean lengthwise and scrape off as many of the tiny black seeds inside as you can. Add this to egg-milk mixture. (Reserve vanil-la bean for another use, such as fl avoring sugar.)

Arrange four individual oven-proof custard cups in a large, fairly tall rimmed pan, such as a brownie pan or roasting pan, making sure cups do not touch one another. Divide custard liquid among the cups and transfer the pan with the individual custards to the oven. Care-fully pour hot water into the large pan until it reaches half-way up the side of the cups. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until the custard is just set. The middle will wiggle slightly but contin-ues to fi rm as it cools.

Remove from oven. Pour 1 tablespoon of syrup on top of each custard. Let cool and served chilled.

Ginger Ice Cream with Sautéed Asian PearsWe make ice cream and sorbet all year long using the fruit and herbs seasonally available. In winter, we use spices instead. Philadelphia-style ice cream is our favorite style to make, as there is no need to cook a custard, and it is a breeze to infuse the cream with all kinds of fl avors. Ginger ice cream is wonderful by itself at the end of a rich meal, or you may pair it with an apple or pear tart for a twist on “a la mode.” Here we pair this Asian-inspired ice cream with sautéed Asian pears.

YIELDS ABOUT 1½ QUARTS.

For ice cream1 knob ginger, about 1 inch long2 cups half-and-half1 cup sugar2 cups heavy or whipping cream2 tablespoon of fi nely chopped

candied ginger

For pears1 tablespoon butter1 large Asian pear, peeled, cored, and sliced1 tablespoon of sugar1 tablespoon of lemon juice2 tablespoons water

To prepare ice cream, slice fresh ginger very thinly. In a small saucepan, add to 1 cup half-and-half and heat until small bubbles appear at the edge (175–190 F). Turn heat off. Cover and let steep for 30 minutes. Add sugar and stir to dissolve completely. If necessary, heat the mix-ture slightly again just until sugar is dissolved. Add remaining cream and half-and-half and then chill (do not use an aluminum pan) for several hours or overnight. Pass mixture through a sieve, pressing hard on ginger to extract as much juice as possible.

Process in your ice cream maker following the manufacturer’s instructions. Transfer to a freezer-safe container for fi rming up, mixing in chopped candied ginger as you go. Freeze for at least 2 hours.

To prepare fruit, heat a thick-bottom skillet large enough to hold pear slices in one layer. Melt butter in the pan. When butter is foaming, add pear slices, and sauté them about 2 to 3 minutes on each side, until they start to brown. Sprinkle with sugar, immediately add lemon juice and wa-ter, lower heat, and simmer 3 to 5 minutes until the sauce is syrupy. Remove from heat.

With the pears still warm, fan out a few slices on each dessert plate, arrange one scoop of ice cream on top, and drizzle pear sauce on top.

Serves immediately.

seasonal table

Slow Food D.C. Animal RoastPoste Brasserie, Washington, D.C.November 3, 2010

Photographer: Katharine Hauschka

Guests at this event were served roasted meats provided by Eco-Friendly Foods and prepared by area chefs. The event was to announce Slow Food DC’s Snail of Approval program identifying “good, clean, and fair food” in local establishments.

Star & Neal Wavra Pablo Solanet, Amanda Phillips Manheim, Mike Koch

Noah & Jenny Travers

Darcy Bacon, Betsey Apple, John Brown

Sharon Dougherty, Joe Henderson, Reagan Duncan

Paul Stearman

Maddy Beckwith, Derek Brown Todd Thrasher, Melissa Harris

Erin Hartigan, Amber Pfau, Nycci Nellis

Dwight McNeil, Brian Noyes

Carlton McCoy, John Wabeck, Rachel Martin, Todd Thrasher, David Hale, Derek Brown

Bernadine Prince, Ann Yonkers

Polly Wiedmaier, Melissa Harris


FreshFarm Farmland FeastThe Ritz-Carlton, Washington, D.C.November 1, 2010

Photographer: Molly M. Peterson

FreshFarm Market showcased their farmers and producers at this annual fund-rai ser. Local celebr ity chefs prepared a five-course, seasonal dinner—along with local wine pairings from local celebrity sommeliers—for more than 350 guests.

Star & Neal Wavra Pablo Solanet, Amanda Phillips Manheim, Mike Koch

Noah & Jenny Travers

Billy Klein, Alison Reed

Gina Chersevani

Deirdre Hamilton, Andrea Northup, Mae Cooper, Anya Legasse

Melissa Harris, Robert Weland

Michel Heitstuman, Stan Feder

Katalin Gimes, Patrick Parnell, Kathryn Warnes

Dive! Screening and Panel DiscussionU.S. Capitol Visitor’s Center, Washington, D.C.December 7, 2010

Photographer: Pam Hess

Filmmaker Jeremy Seifert brought his movie Dive! Living Off America’s Waste to the U.S. Capitol to help bring awareness to the issues of hunger and excess food waste in our country. The film was viewed by politicians and the general public.

Ara Friedman, Jason Scott, Matthew Molli

Keri Hatley, Ken Yu

Aaron Weldon, Lindsay Weldon

Jeremy Siefert

Marlon Reis, Jared Polis, Joshua Kumau

guest listguest list

Darcy Bacon, Betsey Apple, John Brown

Sharon Dougherty, Joe Henderson, Reagan Duncan

Paul Stearman

Maddy Beckwith, Derek Brown Todd Thrasher, Melissa Harris

Erin Hartigan, Amber Pfau, Nycci Nellis

Dwight McNeil, Brian Noyes

Carlton McCoy, John Wabeck, Rachel Martin, Todd Thrasher, David Hale, Derek Brown

Bernadine Prince, Ann Yonkers

Polly Wiedmaier, Melissa Harris

Brian Klein, Robert Gadsby, Chris Watson, Paul Stearman, Robert Wiedmaier, Marcel Wiedmaier

Holly & Bill Martin Reagan Duncan, Virginia Norment, Kathryn Somrell

Marcel, Polly & Robert Wiedmaier

Robert Wiedmaier, Steve Turnich

Mollie & John Paul Visosky

Marjorie Tharp, Dennis Tharp

Tony Barnard, Becky Dormady, Patty Smith, Paul Roberts Steve Mulligan, Cristina Antelo, Gino Duba

David & Nycci Nellis

Mitch and Emily Rales, Amanda Rales, Matt Rales, Rachel Salatin


American Restaurant, Café & Bar

2350 Clarendon Blvd., Arlington, VA 22201703.527.8700 FireWorksPizza.com

AT THE CORNER OF WOOD-FIRED AND CRAFT-BREWED

• Open from lunch to late night 7 days a week.• Over 150 draft and bottled beers, including a couple of cask-conditioned ales.• A well balanced wine list • Superb specialty cocktails.• Plenty of comfortable seating.• Special diets always accommodated, including our gluten-free pizzas. • Visit our website for menus, entertainment schedules and special events.

We start with the finest Italian Caputo flour in a hand-thrown artisan crust, top it with the freshest local and imported ingredients, then bake it in a wood-fired oven for a uniquely delicious taste. Wood-fired pizzas are just the beginning. You’ll also enjoy a full menu of inspired salads, sandwiches, and entrés. There’s a lot to get fired up about at Fire Works!inspired salads, sandwiches, and entrés. There’s

FireWorksArl.Flavor.indd 1 12/1/10 5:12 PM

Brian Klein, Robert Gadsby, Chris Watson, Paul Stearman, Robert Wiedmaier, Marcel Wiedmaier

Holly & Bill Martin Reagan Duncan, Virginia Norment, Kathryn Somrell

Marcel, Polly & Robert Wiedmaier

Robert Wiedmaier, Steve Turnich

Mollie & John Paul Visosky

Vices That Made Virginia: A Benefi tWoodlawn Plantation, Alexandria, VirginiaNovember 6, 2010

Photographer: Tony Brown

This fabulous autumnal feast was prepared by local chefs using local ingredients to celebrate oysters, bourbon, cigars, and more. All proceeds benefi ted Arcadia Center for Sustainable Food and Woodlawn, a National Historic Trust Site.

Amber Pfau, Brian MacNair

Marjorie Tharp, Dennis Tharp

Tony Barnard, Becky Dormady, Patty Smith, Paul Roberts Steve Mulligan, Cristina Antelo, Gino Duba

David & Nycci Nellis

Anthony Chittum, Andrew Bucalich, James Wolfe, William Artley


Mitch and Emily Rales, Amanda Rales, Matt Rales, Rachel Salatin

Marcel’s Full Circle MenuWashington, D.C.November 19, 2010

Photographer: Molly M. Peterson

Robert Wiedmaier gathered his chefs and producers to treat diners to seven spectacular courses at Marcel’s. Local producers and farmers showcased their talents and hard work in the ingredients of the night, from veggies to oysters to rabbit and more.

OPEN WED-SUN AND ALL

MONDAY HOLIDAYS 11 AM-6 PM

(434) 984-4272www.SugarleafVineyards.com3613 WALNUT BRANCH LANENORTH GARDEN, VA 22959

Monticello's only winery to be served in the White House for the Governors Ball!

mags.com JAN / FEB 201154mags.com 55JAN / FEB 2011

DePArTMeNTs56 FligHTS

Happenings in Local Wine, Beer & Spiritsmelissa Flynn

68 drinK SeaSonally

Gina Chersevani of PS7’sHow do you enjoy your cocktail and stick to your New Year’s diet resolution? Ask the Mixtress.amanda Page

58 imBiBe

The Spirit of Catoctin Creek Scott and Becky Harris created Catoctin Creek Distillery to produce small-batch, organic spirits in Loudoun County.melissa Flynn

72 Blind TaSTing

Something to Celebrate in Virginia Sparkling WineCelebrate this Valentine’s Day and other special occasions with a fabulous Virginia sparkling wine.Sherri Fickel & Kevin Kraditor

76 Pairing

The Charcuterie BoardChoosing the right wine to serve with charcuterie can be challenging, so here are tips for making the best selection.Henry reidy

78 THe gueST liST

feATure62 Something Old, Something New

Jefferson Vineyards carries on Thomas Jefferson’s dream of making great wine in Virginia. natalie mesnard

Photo of anti-ox-a-dent drink taken at P7’s in Washington, d.c. by molly mcdonald Peterson

ColuMNs70 WinemaKer’S noTeS

Virginia has yet to settle on its signature varietals, which means consumers have a chance to taste many different wines and learn what they like best.nate Walsh

74 groWing WineS

Zen WinegrowingTo make truly great wines, vintners need to learn to trust their intuitions and observations.Jim law


naTa

lia B

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neW PrivaTe laBel virginia WineJason Burrus, head winemaker at Rappahanock Cellars in Huntly, Virginia, has created his own small-batch, private-label wines using grapes from various vineyards throughout Virginia. Anghel Wine is a unique venture, with the idea that while the wine style will remain the same (a red Bordeaux-style blend), the Virginia vineyards from which the fruit is sourced will change every vintage. This fl exibility lets Burrus select the best fruit for the wine, refi ne the style, and offer customers something different every year. For example, grapes for 2008 Anghel—50 percent Cabernet Franc, 50 percent Petit Verdot—were sourced from Willowcroft Farm Vineyards in Loudoun County and Two Principals Vineyard in Fauquier County. The 2009 vintage is 50 percent Merlot and 50 percent Cabernet Sauvignon; the 2010 vintage is 50 percent Merlot and 50 percent Cabernet Franc. Burrus is producing about 100 cases of each Anghel wine.

Anghel Wine www.anghelwine.com

THey’ve goT THe PoWer When sunset Hills Vineyard opened about two years ago in Purcellville, Virginia, it quickly established itself as an award-making winery committed to sustainable agriculture and environmental stewardship. Now visitors will fi nd 154 solar panels at the winer y—the largest solar panel installation to date in Loudoun County. Owner Mike Canney says the solar system will produce 50,000 kilowatt hours of electricity each year. The solar panels will work to not only ripen the grapes in the vineyard, but also generate the electrical power needed to run the winery. In addition, Sunset Hills was recently accepted into Virginia Green, a statewide program that seeks to reduce the impact of Virginia’s tourism industry on the environment.

sunset Hills Vineyard (540) 882-4560, www.sunsethillsvineyard.com

a Welcoming glaSS HouSe When Jeff and Michelle Sanders moved to the Charlottesville area in 2006 and discovered the thriving wine industry along the Monticello Wine Trail, they knew a winery was an ideal venue to showcase Jeff’s botanical skills and Michelle’s handcrafted chocolates. They established Glass House Winery in Free Union, where six acres of grapes are currently growing. The entire operation is geothermal, and efforts were taken to allow for natural humidity with little need for heating and cooling. A greenhouse full of tropical fruit, exotic flowers, and other plants is next to the tasting room. The winery offers estate-grown Pinot Gris, Viognier, and Barbera as well as the unique Meglio del Sesso—a chocolate dessert wine. In addition, Glass House offers wines that blend estate grapes with those purchased from nearby wineries. Michelle’s gourmet chocolates are also available to purchase at the winery.

Glass House Winery (434) 975-0094, www.glasshousewinery.com

rigHT on TargeT Château Morrisette, an award-winning winery located off

the Blue Ridge Parkway in rural Floyd, Virginia, is one of the state’s largest wine producers. Now, some of their wines are available in Target stores throughout Virginia—with plans to expand to North Carolina stores in 2011. Target carries Château Morrisette’s

Our Dog Blue, Red Mountain Laurel, Sweet Mountain Laurel, and The Black Dog wines.

Château Morrisette (540) 593-2868, www.thedogs.com

Fun in FeBruaryTwo exciting wine events are scheduled for February. At the Virginia Wine showcase(Feb. 12–13, 2011, at the Westfi elds Marriott Washington Dulles), over 300 award-winning Virginia wines will be available to taste and a variety of culinary seminars will be led by some of the area’s best chefs and sommeliers. At the Virginia Wine Expo(Feb. 25–27, 2011, at the Greater Richmond Convention Center), attendees can taste wines from more than 60 local wineries, attend pairing seminars, and attend the Virginia Governor’s Cup award ceremony.

Virginia Wine showcase www.vawineshowcase.org

Virginia Wine Expo www.virginiawineexpo.com

Join THe cluBJefferson Vineyards, the award-winning winery located on Thomas Jefferson’s original vineyard site in Charlottesville, has announced its Wine Connoisseur’s Club. Because most of the wines are very limited in production, membership in the club is limited to 250 members. Each quarterly shipment of three bottles will cost between $55 and $75; the club will feature reserve red wines not generally available to the public, older vintages of Meritage, and some whites as well. The fi rst shipment included the 2009 Chardonnay Reserve, 2006 Meritage, and 1998

Cabernet Sauvignon Vinland Estate.Jefferson Vineyards (434) 977-3042, www.jeffersonvineyards.com

neW SToP on THe BreW ridge TrailWild Wolf Brewing is a new home-brew supply shop and nano-brewery located on the Brew Ridge Trail in Nellysford, Virginia. Visitors can buy refi llable growlers of the fi ve beers on tap, including a Hefeweizen, American Amber Ale, and Imperial Stout. Homemade root beer, made with local honey, is also available—and sold in growlers. The shop boasts more than 800 unique items, including ingredients and equipment to make beer, wine, and soda as well as souvenir shirts, hats, and pint glasses. Even if you don’t brew beer or make your own wine, you’ll fi nd many of the ingredients that Wild Wolf Brewing carries are great for baking and for making soups and sauces. Home-brewing demos are also offered in the shop every Saturday at noon.

Wild Wolf Brewing Company

(434) 361-0088, www.wildwolfbeer.com

ScoTTiSH-STyle virginia WHiSKey Founded by spirit enthusiasts Brian Gray, Joe Hungate, and Chris Allwood in 2007, the Virginia distillery Company seeks to produce high-quality, small-batch, single-malt whiskey using traditional Scottish distilling methods. A new 15,000-square-foot distillery is under construction north of Lovingston, Virginia, and is slated to open sometime next year. Guests will be able to visit the facility, view the distilling process, and taste the whisky. While the single-malt whisky will not be available on the market for a few years—it needs time to age—the company already offers a line of award-winning Eades brand double-malt whiskies, which are available in a number of ABC stores throughout Virginia.

Virginia distillery Company (434) 325-1299, www.vadistillery.com

flights

Jenn

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Ben

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melissa Flynn

in local wine, beer & spirits

chuck, charlotte, and Bill Shelton (l to r) have grown their parents’ retirement orchard into three businesses.

chuck, charlotte, and Bill Shelton (l to r) have grown their parents’ retirement orchard into three businesses.

Scott and Becky Harris (opposite) send leftover mash to a nearby cattle farm and used barrels to a local brewery.

Scott and Becky Harris (opposite) send leftover mash to a nearby cattle farm and used barrels to a local brewery.

imbibe


Melissa FlynnPhotos by Molly McDonald Peterson

Scott Harris remembers his first experience with spirits at the tender age of five. His family spent part of his child-hood living in Germany, where spirits were well-integrated into the culture and large meals were typically followed by

a shot of Boonekamp—a bitter liqueur—to help aid digestion. All guests were given this end-of-the-meal digestif, including the chil-dren. Thus began Scott’s lifelong fascination with spirits.

TaKing THe leaPScott spent 20 years working in the software industry until he found himself burned out and ready for a change. “I was sitting at my computer one day and I thought, ‘I cannot do this for the rest of my life,’” he recalls. Fed up with corporate life, he brought up the idea of starting a distillery to his wife, Becky. “It was definitely Scott’s idea,” she says, “and when he first brought it up, I thought he was crazy.”

Becky suggested that Scott create a business plan for the distill-ery, believing this would be the end of the idea. To her surprise, after several months of extensive research and fine-tuning, Scott presented a plan. A chemical engineer, Becky had spent the last 10 years raising their children and was ready to get back to work. After reading the plan, she conceded and said, “You know, I think we can do this.”

In 2009, Catoctin Creek Distillery was established and became the first legal distillery in Loudoun County—now known for its many wineries—since before Prohibition. The Harrises named the business after a local waterway, which in turn takes its name from the Native American kittoctin, meaning “place of many deer”; Ca-toctin (kuh-TOCK-tin) is also the name of a valley and a mountain.

creaTing THe SPiriTOnce they secured a 2,000-square-foot industrial space in downtown

Catoctin Creek Distillery is a second-career couple’s dream come true.The Spirit of Catoctin Creek

Capturing the EssenceSimple.Honest.Unique

www.mJmphotography.bizVirginia/D.C.

Join me on .

lifestyle portraits

Molly M. [email protected]

TASTING NOTES

imbibe


melissa Flynn, Flavor’s editorial assistant, gained an appreciation for all things food and beverage while attending culinary school and working for several of the area’s best restaurants and caterers. She is also a food blogger and wine distributor in Northern Virginia.

Purcellville, the Harrises had the space and equipment to begin making spirits. Despite his meticulous planning, however, Scott says, laughing, “I planned for everything but forgot to order product to run through and test the still.” Frantic, he called his neighbor and winery owner Doug Fabbioli, who promptly brought him 40 gallons of pear wine. “It was gorgeous the fi rst second it came through the still,” Scott says. “It turned into a really neat collaboration with Doug and Fabbioli Cellars.” Pearousia, Ca-toctin Creek’s fi rst fruit brandy, is the result of this collaboration.

The next products they developed were Mosby’s Spirit, a rye white whiskey; Round-stone Rye, an oak-aged rye whiskey; and Watershed Gin, a complex gin made with a blend of herbs and spices. The spirits are smooth, clean, and delicious, and the line-up was quickly offered to the public by Magnolia’s at the Mill, a popular restaurant down the road from the distillery. Other restaurants, including Eventide in Arling-ton and The Majestic and Restaurant Eve in Old Town Alexandria, soon placed or-ders as well. The spirits are also available for purchase at ABC liquor stores in Virginia.

going greenUsing local ingredients in the spirits—fruit for brandy comes from Fabbioli Cellars and Tarara Winery—was just as important to the Har-rises as becoming certified organic. “Organic was really important for us, because it’s a truly cleaner spirit,” Scott says. “People are amazed at how smooth and clean our spirits are right off the still. Organic spirits just taste bet-ter.” Going one step further, Catoctin Creek also became certifi ed kosher.

The owners are also proud of their “recycling” program. The 30-gallon oak casks used to age the whiskey, which by law cannot be used more than once to age spirits, are sent to Mad Fox Brewery in Falls

Catoctin Creek Distillery37251C E. Richardson Ln., Purcellville, VA

(540) 751-8404

www.catoctincreekdistilling.com

tilling operation while Scott markets the brand and distributes the product. Expansion to a larger facility is in the works, and Becky hopes to create more seasonal spirits using interesting, local ingredients. With the spirits established in the D.C. region, the Harrises are looking to move the brand nationwide and to Canada, while still maintaining their high-quality, small-batch roots.

Mosby’s spirit ($38.90) is a very smooth rye “white whisky,” with fl o-ral, cereal, and citrus notes. Awarded a bronze medal in the American Dis-tilling Institute 2010 Whiskey Compe-tition in Louisville, Kentucky, it can be used as a mixer or served on its own. Add a sliver of lemon or orange zest for a refreshing treat.

Catoctin Creek’s best seller, Round-stone Rye ($38.90), is an oak-aged rye whiskey with notes of caramel, toffee, oak, and lemon. A rare organ-ic whiskey, it is great on the rocks, neat, or in Manhattans.

The Harrises use a secret combina-tion of organic herbs and spices to make Watershed Gin ($38.90), a rye gin with hints of citrus, cinnamon, hay, and juniper. It is delightful in a gin and tonic or blended with your fa-vorite mixer.

Pearousia ($42.30) is a collaboration between Fabbioli Cellars and Catoctin Creek—Doug Fabbioli’s pear wine is distilled into brandy and aged in oak. The pear brandy has lovely fresh fruit aromas with notes of sweet caramel and vanilla. Pearousia is an extremely limited release; only 600 bottles were released this season.

Church, which uses them to age porter and barrel stout beers. And the spent mash, a by-product of the distilling process, is sent to a local farmer who feeds it to his cows.

“It’s free food for the farmer and a nice way for us to deal with the disposal of the spent mash,” says Scott.

looKing aHeadAs a relatively young business, the Harrises like to think of Catoctin Creek as a mom-and-pop distillery. Becky oversees the dis-

“Organic was really important for us, because it’s a truly

cleaner spirit.”Co-owner Scott Harris


natalie mesnardPhotos by Laura Merricks

This outstanding mid-sized Charlottesville winery offers quality local wine, tourism, and a stunning view of historic land.

This outstanding mid-sized Charlottesville winery offers quality local wine, tourism, and a stunning view of historic land.

Something Old, Something New Something Old, Something New


qualifi ed to lead the development of this small winery. He has been making and enjoying wine since he was 15, when he first encountered winemaking in New York’s Hudson Valley. “I spent a summer up there working in the vineyard, helping out in the cellar and the tasting room, doing odds and ends, and really loved it,” Reagan says. “I could never be satisfi ed sitting in an offi ce just doing the same thing day after day.”

After he graduated from high school, Reagan began working in wineries full time, including a two-year stint with the Williamsburg Winery, where he learned about wine production on a larger scale. Now he jokes with his friends that he’s the “next Thomas Jefferson.” Reagan lives right on the winery’s property with his wife, two-tenths of a mile from the tasting room and cellars. And he’s proud of his Southern heritage—he was born in Norfolk—and of Virginia wine.

“There are a lot of good Virginia wines,” Reagan says. “Every winery has something that’s made well and tastes really good.” Like many Virginia winemakers, Reagan is making a significant contribution to the state’s wine industry as a whole by putting great vintages on the map.

old SiTe, neW WineSThe wine at Jefferson Vineyards is purely a product of Virginia. A majority of the grapes hail from the estate’s vineyards and other vineyards in the Monticello AVA, which covers Albemarle, Orange, Nelson, and Greene counties. The rest are sourced from growers in places such as Augusta, Loudoun, and Westmoreland counties. The winery eschews the use of commercial fruit concentrates from California (which, according to Reagan, are used in blends from some Virginia wineries) in favor of an unadulterated Virginia product. He encourages his growers to “grow the fruit to make better wine,” even if that means a lower yield for a higher price.

“I hope that there is some aspect of [each Jefferson] wine that is really beautiful, whether it’s the aroma, the fruit forwardness, a touch of sweetness, smoothness—whatever it is,” says Reagan. Balance is a key factor, as is longevity. When he fi rst started tasting and learning about wine, Reagan visited the fabulously stocked cellars of winery owners he worked for, often sampling vintages that were 30 to 40 years old. Still, Reagan claims his true purpose is to make wine that anyone can enjoy. “My palate has been developed on really good older wines,” Reagan says, but that doesn’t prevent him from enjoying a bottle of rosé in the summer. “If something tastes good to you, just scream about it.”

Jefferson Vineyards, as you’d expect from its name, is steeped in history. Located just minutes from the grounds of Monticello, Thomas Jefferson’s celebrated home, the winery represents the fulfi llment of a dream that began in 1773, when Jefferson

granted 400 acres of rolling farmland to Italian winemaker Fillipo Mazzei. Today, fi ne Virginia wines made with grapes grown on this original site are making their way into the hands of countless wine lovers, and curious visitors come to appreciate Virginia’s terroir in a tasting room that offers a beautiful view of the Blue Ridge Mountains.

HiSTory leSSonJefferson was excited by the idea of growing grapes in the New World. He has been described by historians at Monticello as America’s “fi rst distinguished viticulturist,” though his new vineyard at Monticello was met with some diffi culties: An unexpected frost killed off much of the initial planting, and the American Revolution provided an ongoing distraction. It wasn’t until over 200 years later, in 1981, that the winery was resurrected and transformed into a successful enterprise. The Woodward family, who purchased the property in the 1950s, and Gabrielle Rausse, the Italian viticulturist who has been called the “father of Virginia’s wine industry,” replanted 25 of the original 400 acres. The Woodwards still live on the property today in Fillipo Mazzei’s old home.

Jefferson Vineyards’ reputation would not be what it is today without Andy Reagan, head winemaker at the winery since 2005.

“We’re trying to realize Jefferson’s dream of making great wine in Virginia,” says Reagan, a down-to-earth wine lover who is eminently

chad Zakaib, who has been with

the vineyard since 2003, hired andy

reagan shortly after being named

general manager in 2005.

Jefferson does not use inexpensive concentrates

from california but instead supplements its

fruit with grapes from growers such as

Flippan-Seaman’s Silver creek orchards.

TASTE OVER 300AWARD-WINNING VIRGINIA WINES

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AND SOMMELIERS

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THE ULTIMATE VALENTINE

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THE ULTIMATE VALENTINE

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February 12~13 Westfields Dulles Marriott

VIRGINIA WINE SHOWCASE


Jefferson Vineyards1353 Thomas Jefferson Pkwy., Charlottesville, VA

(434) 977-3042

www.jeffersonvineyards.com

natalie mesnard farms, cooks, and writes in Richmond. She works for Amy’s Garden, an organic farm, and Savor Café, a small restaurant that sources ingredients locally, and strives to learn as much as possible about every aspect of food.

Reagan’s vision has led to accolades for wines such as the 2009 Pinot Gris and 2009 Viognier, whites that performed quite well in 2010 competitions, following trends that say these two grapes may be standouts for Virginia. The 2007 Meritage and the 2009 Chardonnay Reserve were also outstanding. Though wines are primarily available for sale in the tasting room, with some limited distribution in Washington, D.C., and New York City, the winery continues to grow, consistently selling out each year.

THe WHole eXPerienceWeddings and festivals are not held at Jefferson Vineyards—allowing the winery’s limited staff to focus on making the greatest wines possible—but the winery hosts plenty of events: Plans are in the works for future wine parties, special tastings, classes on wine blending, and a multi-course gourmet dinner paired with a barrel tasting. The winery has also been keeping a selection of unreleased reserve wines from 2007 and 2008, with plans to make them an

“We’re trying to realize Jefferson’s dream of making great wine

in Virginia.” Winemaker Andy Reagan

Tastingsof Charlottesville

“The Wine and Food Lover’s Ultimate Destination”

Lunch Tue-Sat: 11:30 –2:30 Dinner Thur-Sat: 6-9434-293-3663

www.TastingsOfCville.com502 E. Market St. Charlottesville,VA 22902

exclusive part of its new wine club.Jefferson Vineyards is just as welcoming to the casual visitor as it

is to the connoisseur. “Drinking wine is not a snob thing anymore,” says Reagan. “I mispronounce varieties and winery names all the time. I just want people to know that it’s fun.” And it’s certainly easy to have a good time there. A pleasant seating area just outside the tasting room offers a place to chat, and rolling green hills provide ample grounds for walking and enjoying the gorgeous mountain views. The winery is minutes away from Monticello, Carter Mountain Orchard, and the historic Michie Tavern; driving a few more minutes leads to downtown Charlottesville. It’s a beautiful place to enjoy an afternoon learning about Virginia history and tasting good wine, whether you’re a wine fanatic, a history buff, or just someone looking to spend a relaxing weekend near the Blue Ridge Mountains.

award-winning winemaker andy

reagan, a virginia native, insists

that wine isn’t just for snobs.

ENHANCEDTo see andy reagan’s installment of winemaker’s notes or to read about the winegrowers who supply Jefferson vineyards, visit fl avormags.com.


enthusiasm for local, seasonal ingredients, but they both have a f lare for creating exciting food and beverage combinations. Ignoring the traditional notions of food and wine pairings, they’ve launched a food and cocktail pairing menu that is anything but traditional. One of Chersevani’s favorite undertakings in her current position, she says, is “creating this new movement of food and cocktail pairings, while collaborating with chef Smith.”

In October of 2010, Chersevani received

D.C.’s popular mixtress creates irresistible low-calorie cocktails.

Amanda PagePhotos by Molly McDonald Peterson

Gina Chersevani of PS7’s

Gina Cher sevani g rew up in the kitchens of New York and was exposed to local and fresh

ingredients, by her father, at a young age. This helped whet her appetite for a career in the food and beverage world. After obtaining her B.A. in psychology and fi ne arts from the University of Maryland, Chersevani landed her fi rst martini-making gig at Penang in D.C. She quickly became well known in the district’s beverage community for her imaginative cocktail menus. She began consulting and helped design other beverage programs in the area, including those for 15 Ria and the Poste Moderne Brasserie.

In 2006, Chersevani was hired as the master mixologist for Penn Quarter’s Rasika. Here, she began experimenting with exotic ingredients such as saffron, cloves, and lotus. In 2008, Chersevani ventured out of the district to become the “bar chef” for the Neighborhood Restaurant Group. While at the group’s main gastropub EatBar and its upscale restaurant Tallula, she earned numerous awards including Absolut Vodka’s Best Martini competition in 2008; her creations were also named the Restaurant Association of Metropolitan Washington’s Offi cial RAMMY Cocktail of 2008 and 2009.

Chersevani—who was dubbed “the mixtress” by Mark Kuller, proprietor of Proof—can now be found shaking things up at PS7’s near Chinatown. She has teamed up with PS7’s chef-owner, Peter Smith, since 2009. Not only do they share an

Find a recipe for chersevani’s cranberry-pomegranate ant-eye-ox-a-dent cocktail at fl avormags.com.

ENHANCED

Online: www.tarara.comJoin us...

Drink Local...Experience Virtually!

Tasting Room Open Daily 13648 Tarara Lane - Leesburg, VA 20176

703.771.7100

Facebook: TararaWineryTwitter: @Tarara Winery

amanda Page is a professional chef, wine expert, and world traveler. A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America in New York, she currently teaches food and wine classes at Culinaerie in D.C. and is the retail manager of Screwtop Wine Bar in Arlington, Virginia.

PS7’s777 I St. NW, Washington, D.C.

(202) 742-8550

www.ps7restaurant.com

Chili Flip1 ½ ounces Stoli White Pomegranik vodka infused with Kashmiri chiles

1 ½ ounces lemon juice

½ ounce egg white

2 spritzes Angostura orange bitters

2 bar spoons of hibiscus tea

1 ounce sugar-free simple syrup (2 parts water to 1 part Splenda)

In a shaker ¾ fi lled with ice, combine vodka, lemon juice, and egg white, and shake until frothy. Strain into a coupe glass. Spritz bitters across the top of the cocktail, layer the hibiscus tea on top, and swirl together to form a design.

Curried Away1 ½ ounces Bluecoat gin

2 ounces coconut water

1 smidgen (really) of red Thai curry

1 ounce fresh lime juice

1 ounce sugar-free simple syrup (2 parts water to 1 part Splenda)

1 sprig mint or rosemary for garnish

In a shaker ¾ filled with ice, combine gin, coconut water, curry, lime juice, and simple syrup. Shake until cold, and strain over a rock glass fi lled with ice. Garnish with sprig of mint or rosemary.

Anti-Ox-A-DentMakes approximately 6 nonalcoholic drinks. To make alcoholic, add 1½ ounces vodka per cocktail. It will still be “lo-cal”!

2 cups fresh cranberries

6 to 8 medium-size pears

1 cup quince simple syrup (recipe online)

Additional fresh cranberries for garnish

In a juice extractor, process cranberries and whole pears. Double strain the juice through a fi ne mesh strainer. (It is important to remove the cranberry seeds.) Combine the strained cranberry-pear juice and quince syrup in a pitcher. To serve, pour over ice and garnish with fresh cranberries.

the coveted Star Chefs Rising Star award, presented by the online magazine Star Chefs. You can ask her about this prestigious award while sampling some of her latest “lo-cal” cocktails (a nod to “local” food), which have 100 or fewer calories. Chersevani loves to use local and seasonal ingredients—such as cranberries and quince in the winter—whenever possible, which cut back on calories, but definitely not flavor, in her drinks. So now you can drink fresh and local, all while watching your waistline.

loca-pour


Winemakers are boring party guests—especially Virginia wine-makers, and especially when

they’re talking about Virginia wine. Be-sides not liking your beer, one is sure to challenge another within fi ve minutes: “So, what are the best grapes for winemaking in Virginia? What are the grapes that are go-ing to ‘put Virginia on the map?’”

After that, there will be no dancing. The ice will melt, the shrimp will thaw, the cel-ery will wilt, and the toilet will clog. But the winemakers will pay no heed. After that, they will spend the evening blathering about soil types, vine vigor, and barrel toast.

This is not a new debate. Many feel that in order for Virginia’s wineries to be marketed as a world-class winemaking community,we must have an “image” or a type of wine to associate ourselves with—a focus. Napa and Bordeaux have Cabernet. Oregon has Pinot Noir. Argentina has Malbec.

This is not simply a matter of choosing something that sells and making more of it. It is a long-term, trial-and-error process of weeding out what doesn’t work in the vine-

yard, doing more of what does, and always being open to experimentation and inno-vation. This process has been going on for centuries, in all winegrowing regions, and there is no way to simply bypass it and get on with the selling. Winegrowers must do the legwork; and by its nature, this legwork takes time.

There is certainly no consensus among winemakers and winery owners as to what the “proper” Virginia wine is. I won’t pro-pose one here, nor do I think there is just one answer. Generally, though, you see a strong varietal push toward Viognier and Cabernet Franc, or Chardonnay and Mer-lot, and wonderful stirrings of Norton, Petit Verdot, and so many others. There are brilliant red blends being made under the label Meritage or under proprietary names, and we cannot ignore that scores of Virginia wines being sold are sweet, or off-dry, or blended with other fruits. The large variety of wines produced in Virginia would fi ll pages and pages on a fascinating wine list. Many wines produced in Virginia,

such as Norton or varietal Petit Verdot,

are hardly available anywhere else in the world.

So here’s my observation: This diversity in wine styles is absolutely wonderful. It’s fan-tastic. You have so much to choose from, and, if you’re in-terested, you have the oppor-tunity to learn a bit not only about diverse styles of wine, but also about what kind of wine you like. We certainly can’t make every type of wine in Virginia, but much of what we can’t make has already been accepted. There will be no great Virginia Pinot Noir. Riesling and Gewurztraminer will remain in the province of the dedicated few.

Now we’re just playing around with what we can, and what we should, be pro-

ducing. Need your light red? Try our lightly macerated Cab Franc. Craving a bit more oompf? Try this new Cab Sauv clone or a Syr-ah from a great year. Want a Sauternes look-alike? We do wonders with late-harvest Vidal. Trying to tickle your inner wine geek? Take a stab at Petit Manseng, Tannat, or Fer Servadou. Enjoy Rhône blends? Done. Raspberry Malbec? Yes. Sparkling Shiraz? I’m sure we’ll have it soon.

I would not describe all of these wines as good. Some are mis-guided or roughly produced, but most of them are good, some are fascinating, and some are great. They are certainly not all for ev-eryone, but I guess that’s kind of the point. I’ve worked in wine-growing regions where if you walked through hundreds and hun-dreds of acres, you would only ever see one varietal.

“Would you like a Pinot, or a Pinot with a bit of Pinot?” “Do you have a Malbec?” “No, but may I recommend a Pinot?” Such a concentrated, focused, and intent effort is wonderful,

and I look forward to the day when we get there or when we be-come a bit more tightly focused. In the meantime, I’m quite con-tent to enjoy our journey. I encourage people to take advantage of the ambition and experimentation occurring in Virginia vine-yards and wineries. There are some very interesting wines being produced here. As time passes, winegrowers will hone in more and more on the grapes and production techniques that provide the most consistent, highest quality wines; Virginia’s long list of wine styles will shrink as the wines get better and better. Undoubtedly, we will lose some of the more obscure wines being made now, so stop and enjoy this awkward stage of youth while you can.

I await the point when, for example, Virginia is making Viog-nier celebrated throughout the world, but I will grant you this: If you don’t like Viognier, you’re going to be wondering what’s going on in the party down the hall.

Consumers should embrace this phase in the life of Virginia wine, in which almost anything goes.

Nate Walsh “stumbled” into the world of winemaking when he took a summer job at Horton Vineyards in Gordonsville, Virginia. He was already a passionate homebrewer and gardener, and working at the winery quickly became his chosen career. After three years at Horton, he was hooked on the business and traveled to the vineyards of Oregon and New Zealand to further hone his winemak-ing skills. Two years ago, he became the head winemaker at Sunset Hills Vineyard in Purcellville, Virginia. At the ripe age of 28, Walsh is already making a name for himself and his award-winning Virginia wines.

Nate WalshPhotos by Molly McDonald Peterson

www.barboursvillewine.com 540.832.3824

PA L L A D I OR E S T A U R A N T

540.832.7848

1804 540.832.5384

Nate Walsh

Plan your wine weekend at

Always a good time at

February 25-27, 2011Greater Richmond Convention CenterRichmond, Virginia

winemaker’s notes


Champagne, Cava, Spumante, Sekt, Prosecco, sparkling—call it what it is, or what you want, bubbly wine makes you think of celebrating: a special night with a loved one, a life change, or just

a weekend morning, with orange juice if you like. Those bubbles lift spirits and make you feel pampered.

So what about the bubbles? They are the first impression that a spar-kling wine makes, and they are also the first detail the tasters noted with the eight Virginia sparkling wines available for this blind tasting. Often referred to by terms such as the mousse or the bead, the bubbles varied in size and consistency and were described as “round,” “squishy,” “flat,” “fine,”

“tiny,” “voluminous,” or “fat.” Even the type of glass can affect the bubbles; flutes were used in this tasting. All other aspects of a wine—such as the nose, palate, finish, color, and mouthfeel—apply to a sparkling wine also.

Sparkling wines, unless noted as a vintage or a varietal, can be made from blends of several grape varieties, multiple vineyards, and with sev-eral years’ production of grapes. Only wine from the Champagne region of France is Champagne; other countries have their own names for this beverage, as noted above.

GettinG the BuBBles in the BottleOther regions imitate Champagne in their sparkling production, using the same grapes (generally Chardonnay and Pinot Noir) and production methods. It is through a secondary fermentation that the bubbles are usu-ally created, and this is done several ways.

The traditional method (or méthode champenoise) was developed in France and is widely used in the U.S. The wine goes through primary fermentation and is then put into bottles for secondary fermentation. The bubbles are developed in the bottle, where the wine remains in contact with the lees (the sediment created during fermentation as the yeast precipitates to the bottom of the bottle). The lees are removed from the bottle during a process known as disgorging, after which a small amount of sugar is added (known as the dosage). The bottles are then corked.

The transfer process follows the same procedure as the traditional method up to the point of bottling. The secondary fermentation is in bot-tles, but then the wine is transferred into tanks and filtered. The filtered wine is then transferred under pressure into a new set of bottles.

The Charmat process is the method used to make Prosecco, among other sparklings. Secondary fermentation happens in large tanks instead of individual bottles, then the wine is transferred under pressure into bottles.

In the inexpensive gas-injection method, carbon dioxide is added to the wine.

Bring Virginia’s best sparkling wine to your next celebration.

Something to Celebrate in Virginia Sparkling Wine

Sherri Fickel & Kevin KraditorVirGinia’s approaches Brut is the driest form of sparkling, and most of the Virginia wines tast-ed were labeled as Brut. The grape varieties were not consistently noted.

Virginia does not produce many sparkling wines, but half of those tasted showed well to the tasting panel, which comprised wine professionals who taste, buy, and sell wines from all over the world. Price was not considered during the tasting, though the prices are usually in the range of $28 to $35. The Barboursville Brut, which made a strong showing, is the least expensive, at $17.99 per bottle; the Thibaut-Janisson Virginia Fizz is about $20 in stores.

the WinnersThere was a discussion among the tasters about the traits that distin-guished the wines, but did not necessarily make one better than the other. Did you want to have a celebratory start to the evening with a sparkling as aperitif, or were you serving it all night during a party with nibbles, or looking for the perfect accompaniment to caviar?

As one taster said of the not-yet-identified wines, “[Barboursville] is lovely as a little aperitif, and then I am done, but [Veritas] is a great wine for walking around the room, chatting, and having a few glasses throughout the night.”

Veritas Scintilla ($30) is a classic in the Champagne style with a nice bead and lots of bubbles. Toasty and bright with apple and lemon on the palate, it was creamy but had a dry finish, leaving no overt fruit.

Barboursville Brut ($17.99) has peach blossom, floral, and cin-namon on the nose, with yeasty bread and apple on the mid-palate, and is well-balanced with a long finish. It was noted for being com-prehensive and together.

King Family Brut ($29.95) is effervescent, with apple on the nose, a yeastier palate, and a long finish showing orange. It was one of the more complex wines and was well-balanced.

Kluge 2007 SP ($28) was the only vintage wine tasted. Its bub-bles could have been stronger, but it had a great mouthfeel and a pleasant chalkiness. It did not have a long finish but was pleasing.

Thibaut-Janisson Virginia Fizz ($20) had a fine bead and was soft on the palate with minerality on the finish.

Sherri Fickel and Kevin Kraditor are proprietors of Hopkins Ordinary Bed and Breakfast in Sperryville. Kevin has worked in the wine industry for the past eight years, buying and selling wine, advising businesses on their wine pur-chases, and hosting wine-and-food pairing discussions. Sherri worked as a reporter for newspapers in the Midwest, where she grew up on a family farm.

Virginia does not produce many

sparkling wines, but half of

those tasted showed well.

blind tasting


The best winegrowers are guided by a subjective palate, not scientific protocol.

Zen Winegrowing

it will end. Like most Piedmont winegrowers, I did not grow up amongst the vines, so I have had to put quite a lot of effort into interpreting the vines’ sig-nals. I observe the timing of the season: running late, pre-cocious, or right on time. This will clue me into what to expect in the fall and how I might adjust the crop load or sun penetration into the canopy. Leaf size, color, and health, shoot tip growth, internode length, cluster size and compactness—these change every year. The decisions I make in response to those cues from the vineyard create wines distinctive to a par-ticular time and place.

Society’s need to classify, identify, and justify has lead to a certain branding of agricultural practices. The terms organic, biodynamic, and sustainable have good trac-tion in the marketplace. In order to prevent fraud, organizations have developed rules and regulations for growers who would like to be certified in one of these practices—practices that used to simply be referred to as “good farming practices.” My fear is that we are becoming more concerned about following the rules than about making independent, subjective decisions that are best for our land and our crops.

palate-Based WinemakinGMost modern wines have become very good, very correct, and very boring. They often lack personality—of place and of an individual. Today’s winemakers think

Jim Law

This quote from Andre Ostertag of Alsace greets me at my desk every morning: “When scientific knowl-

edge and technology are limited, our senses of observation, intuition, and sensitivity, all of which make up our subjective thought processes, are heightened.”

It serves as a reminder, or perhaps a vali-dation, of why I love what I do. Ostertag gives me the confidence to reject conven-tion and go with my gut.

oBserVation-Based FarminG American society completed its transition from agrarian to industrial several genera-tions ago. In doing so, we lost a very im-portant ancestral connection to intuitive farming. We are attempting to replace intuition with numbers, formulas, and sci-ence. This is somewhat successful where the crop is a commodity, the scale is large, and the inputs (weather and water control) are predictable. Grape growers in the Cen-tral Valley of California are very successful at this modern approach; winegrowers on the East Coast are much less so.

A grapegrower is a conventional farmer whose job is to increase yields and decrease costs. A winegrower, however, is a farmer who has an emotional attachment to the vines and to the resulting wines. Seemingly irrational management decisions produce wines with personality and a sense of place.

In the vineyard I embrace what I refer to as “observation-based, reactionary viticul-ture.” Each growing season is analogous to a classic, epic feature film running in slow motion. As it unfolds, I have no idea how

there now exists a kind of alchemy of trans-forming ordinary grapes into grand cru classé wines. Acid, tannin, color, and con-centrates are only a phone call away. The effort is focused in the cellar rather than the vineyard.

Fortunately, there are many exceptions to industrial winemaking. I have found that the winemakers I admire most all have one thing in common: Their primary wine-making tool is a good, experienced palate. Just like a professional athlete, a palate-based winemaker spends years training and learning from experienced mentors. They stay “in shape” by tasting at every opportu-nity—taking notes, spitting, discussing.

The struggle between technology and intuition is by no means new, nor is it re-stricted to farming and winemaking. It’s about individual comfort levels and satis-faction. As we age, we are by nature less en-thusiastic about embracing new technology or information streams. Too much noise makes it hard to hear the music. I’ve al-

ways admired the Amish, who as a society decided that life was just fine at a certain place and chose to not accept any more noise and clutter.

That sentiment is echoed in this Zen story: “A brash young man watched a sage drawing water from the village well. Slowly, hand over hand, the old man pulled up the wooden bucket of water. After some time the young man left and returned with a pulley. He excitedly explained how to use it and how easy it would be to draw water by cranking the handle. The old man refused: ‘Were I to use a device like this, my mind would congratulate itself on being so clever, and then I would quit putting my heart and whole body into my work. My work would become joyless. And how, then, do you think the water would taste?’”

Winemaker Jim law is the owner and wine-grower of Linden Vineyards in Fauquier County.

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My fear is that we

are becoming more

concerned about

following the rules

than about making

independent,

subjective decisions

that are best for our

land and our crops.

growing wines


the terroir Now that we have determined the profi le of our wine, we need to talk about grapes. Generally speaking, grapes grown in cooler cli-mates are higher in acidity than those grown in warmer climates. Some grapes favor long growing seasons; others prefer shorter, cooler growing conditions.

The longer, warmer growing season allows grapes such as Cab-ernet, Merlot, and Shiraz to reach maximum ripeness with higher sugar levels and lower acidity. This is why places like California’s

Napa Valley, Australia, and Bordeaux are planted mostly in these varieties. Other dry varieties such as Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Riesling are planted in locations with cooler cli-mates like Burgundy, Or-egon’s Willamette Valley, and California’s Sonoma Valley. These cooler cli-mates allow the grapes to develop slowly with lower sugar levels and higher and brighter acidity—just what we are looking for! Leaner, more austere cool-climate wines will help balance the saltiness of our charcuterie.

Virginia winemakers are challenged by the region’s high humidity and shorter growing season. Grape varieties and careful vine-yard management are key. Viognier, Riesling, and Cabernet Franc seem to fare the best here. Vineyard managers who are diligent in protecting their fruit from mold and mildew can, and do, produce delicious, high-quality wines—some of which pair well with charcuterie.

Henry Reidy

When I was fi rst approached to write an article about pairing charcuterie with wine, my reaction was, “Sure, that’s easy.” But I soon realized a formidable task was at hand.

Charcuterie refers to a broad spectrum of meat products includ-ing cured and uncured sausages, cured hams such as prosciutto and Serrano, and terrines and pâtés of every description. What do these seemingly different foods have in common? The answer is fat and salt—ingredients that are condemned by the medical community, television health pundits, and diet-conscious eaters everywhere. Yet these are the components that give fl avor, texture, and richness to charcuterie.

a Good WineAny good wine must have two crucial elements in order to be good: ripe fruit fl avor and acid.

The general wine-drinking public often confuses the de-scriptions “fruity” and “sweet,” but they are in no way the same. Fruitiness refers to the ripeness of the grapes. Sweetness and the opposite quality, dryness, refer to the residual sugars in the wine. A wine with no resid-ual sugar is referred to as “dry.” Wine with small amounts of re-sidual sugar can range from “off-dry” or “semi-dry” to very sweet dessert-type wines. Even com-pletely dry wines must have ripe fruity fl avors or they wouldn’t be any good.

Acid is what gives wine struc-ture and balance. Without enough acid, wine is said to be

“fl abby” or “fat.” Wines that are high in acidity tend to be “lean” or “austere.”

This is key to our pairings: We must find wines with enough acid to cut through and hold up to the fattiness of our charcuterie.

the menuWith all this in mind, here are some of my favorite charcuterie and wine pairings.

Prosciutto di Parma, or Serrano, is a salted, slightly sweet and rich cured ham with a delicate buttery quality. This would pair beautifully with a brut sparkling wine. Codorníu Brut Pinot Noir Cava NV ($12.99) is a 100 percent sparkling Pinot Noir from Spain with enough richness to hold up to the meat’s but-tery texture and fi ne bubbles to accentuate its delicate fl avor. Barboursville Brut NV ($17.99), which is creamy and lus-cious on the palate with a dry fi nish, is a great local choice.

Salami such as sopresatta, coppa, or other dry-cured sausages is characterized by its luscious mouthfeel and sweet sublime salti-ness. France’s famed, bone-dry Trimbach 2008 Riesling Alsace ($19.99) cuts the richness and adds layers of fruit to complement the salami’s fattiness. Perfumed fl owers in the nose with distinct ginger and lime notes make Virginia’s Pearmund Cellars 2009 Riesling ($19.99) another good pairing for salami.

Pâté de foie gras is the ultimate in the art of charcuterie. The king of pâtés, foie gras is French for “fat liver” and is made from the livers of specially fattened geese or ducks. It’s so rich and sublime that only the greatest of wines can stand up to its majesty. The classic wine pairing is Sauternes. Made only in the best vintages, this beautifully sweet yet structured wine shows its greatness here. Using Sémillon grapes dried on the vine and infected with “noble rot,” vineyards in this region produce only a small amount each year, if at all. This rare breed combines in-tense sweetness with high-toned acidity. Those looking to pair a local wine with foie gras should consider Pearmund Cellars 2009 Viognier ($21.99), which has bright tropical fruit notes and a long, rich fi nish.

Confi t and rillettes are made in a two-step process: They’re cured briefl y under salt to draw out excess moisture and then slow-cooked while fully submerged in fat. Best-known ex-amples include duck confi t and pork rillettes. This is where a light-bodied yet well-structured Pinot Noir comes into play, perhaps Evesham Wood 2009 Pinot Noir ($24.99) from the Willamette Valley—a delightfully elegant wine, but lean with beautiful acidity to balance the fatty deliciousness of charcute-rie. Well Hung Vineyards 2009 Cabernet Franc ($19.99)—a medium-bodied red with hints of pepper and spice—is my rec-ommended Virginia wine pairing for this style of charcuterie.

Henry reidy is the owner of Richmond’s oldest wine shop, Strawberry Street Vineyard, located in the heart of Richmond’s Fan neighborhood.

We love the richness of charcuterie, but which wines stand up to it?

The Charcuterie Board

We must fi nd wines with enough acid to cut through and hold up to the

fattiness of our charcuterie.

new years resolutions

eat healthy

Shop localI will support local businesses and purchase local products

I promise to eat more healthful, sustainably raised food

I’ll ask about what I eat—where is it from? Who raised it?

LEARN NEW THINGScharcuteriehumane veal

pastured porkgrass-fed beef

free range poultryhousemade sausage

artisan cheesewine& beer

.. . . . .and more

BUY AT BELMONT BUTCHERYSo I know my butcher cares!

pairing

Kevin Adams, Bob Lander, Marti Cannon-Lander, Martha Bogle

Susan Sherman, Donna Bedwell, Kevin Adams, Paula Amt

Patrick O’Connell, Tom Calhoun, Bruce Neal

Frederik De Pue, Christy Schlesinger, Frank Schlesinger

Frank Babb Randolph, Melissa Harris, Christian Zapatka

Jennifer Motruk Loy, Chef Frederik De Pue, Miles Gray

Olvia C. Demetriou, Christy Schlesinger Julia Walter, Frederik De Pue, Maeva Michiels, Robert Matic

Travis Croxton, Ryan Croxton

Melissa Staten Brianna SabyKristi & Alden Croxton, Becca & Milla Croxton

Susan & Tim Gorman



Washington, VirginiaNovember 21, 2010

Photos courtesy of Shenandoah National Park

To celebrate the Shenandoah National Park’s 75th anniversary, The Inn at Little Washington hosted an art opening for watercolor i st Kevin H. Adams and a silent auction gala. Guests were treated to Calhoun ham, Rappahannock River Oysters, Barboursville wines, and many other treats.

“Our Heritage, Our Park” Art Opening and Silent Auction

Oyster Roast at Cardinal Point Vineyard & WineryAfton, VirginiaNovember 13–14, 2010

Photographer: Andrea Hubbell

Cardinal Point Vineyard and Winery hosted its 7th-annual Oyster Roast in November. Local Rappahannock River Oysters were on hand, as was four-time World Shucking Champion Deborah Pratt.

Boffi Harvest DinnerBoffi Showroom, Washington, D.C.November 10, 2010

Photographer: Catianne Tijerina

Two dozen top architects and designers gathered at the new Boffi showroom for a four-course dinner prepared by chef Frederik De Pue of Smith Commons. During dinner, guests enjoyed wines by Boxwood Winery, Tarara Winery, and Jefferson Vineyards.

Kevin Adams, Bob Lander, Marti Cannon-Lander, Martha Bogle

Susan Sherman, Donna Bedwell, Kevin Adams, Paula Amt

Patrick O’Connell, Tom Calhoun, Bruce Neal

Frederik De Pue, Christy Schlesinger, Frank Schlesinger

Travis Croxton, Ryan Croxton

Melissa Staten Brianna SabyKristi & Alden Croxton, Becca & Milla Croxton

Susan & Tim GormanFrank Babb Randolph, Melissa Harris, Christian Zapatka

Jennifer Motruk Loy, Chef Frederik De Pue, Miles Gray

Olvia C. Demetriou, Christy Schlesinger Julia Walter, Frederik De Pue, Maeva Michiels, Robert Matic


American Flatbread, 80

Arganica Farm Club, 39

Barboursville Vineyards, 71

Belle Meade Farm, School& B&B, 2Belle Meade Child Program, 42

Belmont Butchery, 77

Bethesda Co-Op, 35

The Big Bad Woof, 47

Bread & Brew, 15

Butcher’s Block Market, 6Cardinal Point Winery, 79

Carter & Spence, 38

Catoctin Creek Distilling Company, 69

Central Coffee Roasters, 4Cowgirl Creamery, 35

DelFosse Vineyards & Winery, 73

Everona Dairy, 14

Ferguson Charlottesville, 43

Firefl y Farms, 39

Fleurir Chocolates, 49

Fountain Hall Bed & Breakfast, 49

FreshFarm Market, 21

George Bowers Grocery, 46

The Happy Cook, 42

Harrisonburg Farmer’s Market, 47

Hopkins Ordinary, 48

Iron Bridge Wine Company, 66

Jefferson Vineyards, 54

Joshua Wilton House, 47

Laughing Duck Gardens & Cookery, 25

Mas, 57

MJM Photography, 61

Mom’s Organic Market, inside front cover

Mona Lisa Pasta, 14

Narmada Winery, 77

Occasions Caterers, 6Paul Harris Tree Services, 15

Pride of the Plains, 12

R.H. Ballard, 49

Real Estate III/Better Homes & Gardens, 8Rebecca’s Natural Food, 14

Red Fox Inn, 21

Route 11 Potato Chips, back cover

Roy Wheeler Realty, 1

CHoColATE CRÈME BRÛlÉEThe Inn at Little Washingtonfl avormags.com

CIdER-RoAsTEd CHICKEn WITH RosEMARy RUBpage 46

GInGER ICE CREAM WITH sAUTÉEd AsIAn PEARspage 49

MAPlE VAnIllA BEAn BAKEd CUsTARdpage 48

MInI MUsHRooM GAlETTEsPoppy Hill Tuscan Kitchenpage 34

Wood-Fired Pizza

supporting Virginia Farmers

ARLINGTON ~ ASHBURN

americanflatbread.com

Shenandoah Growers, 3Stonyman Gourmet, 13

Sugarleaf Vineyards, 54

Sunset Hills Vineyard, 73

Suriny Bran Oil, 24

Tarara Winery, 69

Tastings, 67

Thibaut-Janisson, 65

Thornton River Grille, 4Toigo Orchard, 13

Toliver House, 9Trickling Springs Creamery, 38

Tuscarora Organic Growers Co-op, 15

Tuskies, 53

Veritas Winery, 75

Virginia Wine Expo, 71

Virginia Wine Showcase, 67

WMRA-NPR, 12

Wasmund’s Whiskey, inside back cover

Wild Wolf Brewing Company, 30

The Wine Kitchen, 61

Zynodoa, 65

RoAsTEd dElICATA PURÉE WITH RoAsTEd GARlICpage 48

sCAlloPs & AsIAGo GRITsRestaurant 3page 20

sPICy RoAsTEd IRIsH & sWEET PoTATo WEdGEspage 47

sWIss CHARd GRATInpage 48

VElVETy BUTTERnUT APPlE soUPpage 46

AnTI-oX-A-dEnTGina Chersevani, PS7’spage 68

BACon-InfUsEd VodKARestaurant 3fl avormags.com

CHIlI flIPGina Chersevani, PS7’spage 69

CURRIEd AWAyGina Chersevani, PS7’spage 68

QUInCE syRUPGina Chersevani, PS7’sfl avormags.com

AdVERTIsER dIRECToRy

RECIPE IndEX

advertiser directory & recipe index

tasteVirginia original

� hand malted � applewood aged �� Sperryville, virginia �

International Review of Spirits Award

GOLD MEDAL

93BEVERAGE TESTING

INSTITUTE

At Copper Fox Distillery, we dedicate ourselves to making greatAmerican spirits. Pot-stilled in small

batches, one barrel at a time.

Available at most Virginia ABC stores andbetter bars and restaurants. For a completelist, visit us at www.copperfox.biz

COPPER FOX DISTILLERY 9 River Lane, Sperryville, VA

STORE HOURSMON–SAT: 10am–6pm

DISTILLERY TOURSMON–FRI: 4pm

SAT: 11am, 1pm, 3pm, 5pm

540.987.8554 www.copperfox.biz

rom now on we will only use

when making our Lightly Salted

and Sweet Potato Chips.

is a sea salt from an ancient

seabed in Utah. It is completely natural,

unrefined, and full of essential minerals.

And the best part about it is that

it tastes incredible!

Route 11 Potato Chips wishes everybody

a happy and healthy New Year!

Our 20 New Year’s Resolution:

rom now on we will only use

when making our

11 Edwards Way, Mount Jackson, VA • 540-477-9664 • www.rt11.com

F

Flavor-Mag_Route11-Ad_Dec2010.indd 1 12/13/10 3:02:33 PM

Documents

Flavor Magazine Jan/Feb 2011