Activities . Art . Dining . Entertainment . Hotels . Shopping . Spas

Nhà Xuất Bản Đà Nẵng

Contents

Preface 2HoiAnEssentialInformation 6Calendar 14,16LocalPromotion 18,22Sam’sGoodBusinessList 24,25

FeaturesWhatisFairTrade? 26-28NotesfromHoiAn 30-33HoiAnMarketLadies 34-36TraQueHerbGarden 37-39CycloDrivers 40,41BeingaPigintheYearoftheCat 42-45HowVietnameseAreYou? 46-49LocalCo-operation 50-52PhotoEssay 58-62

Maps 66-75

SectionsGolf 76,77Activities 80-87Dining 88-109Entertainment 110Accommodation 111Shopping 112-129Health&Wellness 130-135OutsideHoiAn 136,137DaNang 138-141BusinessDirectory 142-155ImportantContacts 156

Cua Dai Beach, Hoi An, Quang Nam ProvinceTel: +84 510 3927 040 - Fax: +84 510 3927 041

www.victoriahotels-asia.com

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Lac Long Quan Street, Cua Dai Beach Tel: (84.510) 3.927.927 info@pgr.com.vnwww.palmgardenresort.com.vn

A haven for tranquility, the Palm Garden Spa & Salon is ensconced in a beautifully landscaped tropical garden. The spa facility is famous, with staffed having trained under the internationally famous Shiseido Qi brand. Expect first-class pampering at local prices and enjoy facilities such as the sauna, plunge bath, Jacuzzi and steam room.

Outside guests are welcome and discounts apply during our current promotion - please enquire at reception!

Preface

So spring is still in swing and the sizzle of summer approaches. And just as sure as the tides change, so has this little heritage town. When I take a mo-ment to consider what has happened around town, I am always astounded. People are always asking me, “don’t you worry about running out of ideas?” No, I don’t. There is always a new place opening. New faces. And the changes of the seasons. At this time you can feel the buzz of the warm sea-son coming and the energy of development . It’s been almost 2 years since Live Hoi An published it’s first magazine and in that time I seen two 18 hole golf courses open, a series of new bars and restaurants, various adventure tours and a proliferation of original and creative art and design stores. Not to mention the number of resorts between Hoi An and Da Nang coming into actual fruition. Indeed, the times are a-changin’ as Bob Dylan famously sang (and did so quite recently during his Vietnam tour). We either make our own music or dance along…

Any comments about the new issue? Email me: amy@livehoianmagazine.com

Center Viet Nam Advertising & Marketing Co.,Ltd 36 Nguyễn Công Trứ, Tan An Ward, Hoi An City, Quang Nam Province, Viet Nam Tel: 0510 3920889 Fax: 0510 3920889 info@livehoianmagazine.com www.livehoianmagazine.com

CEO, Managing Editor and Director of Sales: Amy Morison Assistant Sales Director: Tran Gia DucArt Director: Tran Hoai Anh @ Spot Design Design: Spot DesignOffice Manager: Nguyen Thi VanVietnamese language advisor: Chi Mai Contributors: Phil Mellifont and Sam MillerStaff Photographer: Etienne Bossot

Special thanks to Etienne Bossot for the cover photo

LIVE HOI AN - (Song ngữ)Chịu trách nhiệm xuất bản: Nguyễn Kim Thành Biên tập nội dung: Nguyễn Lương Quyền. Sửa bản in: Nguyễn Anh Vũ. Bìa: In 7.000 cuốn, khổ 10x20cm tại Công ty TNHH MTV Công Công Thành 312 Hoàng Diệu, Đà Nẵng. Số đăng ký kế hoạch xuất bản: 400-2011Nhà xuất bản Đà Nẵng In xong và nộp lưu chiểu tháng 04 năm 2011.

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CARGO CLUB

MORNING GLORY

MERMAID

by Ms. Vy

Culinary

creations

restaurant-hoian.com

Palmarosa Spa: 90 Ba Trieu StreetTel: 0510 3 933 999Email: palmarosaspa@yahoo.comWebsite: www.palmarosaspa.com

Healthier … by natureHoi An’s essential day spa experience

Hoi An Essential INFORMATION

Hoi An is place rooted in tradition and history. Its past is a resplendent tap-estry of arts and culture having served as a key trading port and supplier of fine crafts for the imperial city of Hue. Contemporary Hoi An still thrives as a very arts-oriented community and as a town with many cultural experi-ences on offer, including gourmet restaurant and luxury relaxation options which are continually evolving as more visitors are attracted to the area.

As a visitor, here are some essential guidelines on the town’s unique fea-tures, rules and etiquette.

What you should know:

• Every month on the lunar calendar (which is the same as the full moon), the townspeople show respect and honour to their history and ances-tors. In the old quarter only pedestrians are allowed, in fact you cannot even peddle or push your bicycle through the town until after 9:30pm. Also, fluorescent lighting is prohibited and instead you will see many lanterns adorning the shop fronts and warming the streets.

• During the normal working week there are certain times when you can-not ride a motorized vehicle into the old quarter. These are:

- 8am-11am (Monday, Wednesday, Friday) - 2pm-5pm (Monday, Wednesday, Friday) - 7pm-9:30pm (Every day)

• When visiting local attractions, be respectful, particularly if you are entering a religious site. Don’t wear tight-fitting or revealing clothes. It is also considered rude to speak loudly, laugh or be openly affectionate. Quiet appreciation is the key – and locals will appreciate you for it.

• You may feel pangs of guilt when approached by children selling goods. That’s natural. Just remember it’s not necessarily the best way to help them and more often than not they are not actually the kids most in need. Please see Sam’s Good Business List if you want to make sure your money is getting channeled through a legitimate organization to the right people. At Live Hoi An we also advocate eating at Streets International Restaurant at least once and purchasing goods from fair trade outlet Reaching Out as well as NGO-funded foundations Lifestart and Smile House. All their products are made by disabled or underprivileged locals.

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Streets International:

The Graduates

The expressions of STREETS Inter-national founders Neal Bermas and Sondra Stewart were similar to that of proud parents. Emotions were running high; their first class of kids had graduated. Within 1 month after the ceremony, all Trainees were employed in the best 5 star hotels and restaurants in Hoi An.

STREETS International is a non-prof-it, social enterprise that opened a restaurant almost 2 years ago, com-mencing a programme that would impact on the lives of various un-derprivileged youth from Hoi An and nearby provinces. The18-month programme enables trainees to develop essential skills in hospitality and culinary service – STREETS provides education, equipment and boarding to all their trainees. Every trainee undergoes English lessons and hospitality or culinary theory as well as practical; each logging a certain number of hours in the STREETS Restaurant Café on Le Loi St. Once training is completed, STREETS graduates achieve an international accreditation

from the Institute of Culinary Arts (ICE) in New York and have the skills to take on positions in 5-star level hospitality outlets, enabling them to achieve their main goal – to earn enough to support their families.

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STREETS provides an opportunity for disadvantaged youth to transition from poverty and life on the streets to successful careers in hospitality. The STREETS Restaurant Cafe and regional training center opened in Hoi An over 1 year ago. Already one class has finished with 100% employment and classes two and three are busy training and preparing for their new careers.

In 5 years, Do hopes to be a chef de partie in the Nam Hai or the same level of resort. Already his salary has made a huge difference to his family.

“First of all, I am so proud to be a STREETS graduate. The training and experience I gained helped me get this job at the Nam Hai – a position many people my age would want. Getting this position has already been a dream come true and I am very happy to be learning new skills here.”

Ms Le Ho Thuy Dung, Server-Bartender at Q Bar Hoi An

In the suave setting of Hoi An’s Q Bar, STREETS graduate Dung radiates – her training has more than equipped her to host guests at the prestigious Q Bar lounge. When Live Hoi An interviewed Dung her main responsibili-ties included setting up the tables, taking orders and serving guests their drinks. But she was well on her way to actual bartending; already learning how to make cocktails.

“STREETS provided training that I know other centres do not provide – so I know the knowledge and experience I have has already helped me a lot in my new job. The tasks are not difficult for me and I am learning fast,” she said. “STREETS also trained me in life skills – how to manage money, deal with problems and strategize. My English is improving all the time, but STREETS gave me excellent tuition in English, making it easier for me to communicate in my job.”

She says that her family is very proud of her; especially her ability to man-age her money and living costs. They are happy that she has the means to live independently and has such good prospects for the future.

“I am very happy to work and learn here. My colleagues and manager at Q Bar are teaching me many useful skills and I like the working environ-ment,” she says. “In 5 years from now I hope to be an F&B manager in a large resort.”

For this issue of Live Hoi An we caught up with a number of graduates who have taken on positions in some of Hoi An’s better known resorts and bars.

Ms Dinh Thi Minh Dan, Commis Chef at Swiss-Belhotel Golden Sands Resort & Spa

This 21 year old graduate from STREETS started as a commis chef at Golden Sands almost immediately after the graduation ceremony. Her main task right now is to work the breakfast shift, cooking special order eggs for guests. It won’t be long, however, until she takes on dif-ferent responsibilities and moves up the chef ranking order – her dream is to become head chef in a resort one day.

How does she feel about her new job? Dan says she is confident and happy in her new position, as the STREETS training prepared her well.

“Our education and learning has made me feel self-confident – my tasks are not too difficult or strange. I am very hygienic and careful already because of my training. I also know how to work in a big team like the one at Golden Sands and how to control my finances. These are skills STREETS taught me,” she explains. “Also, all the basics such as chopping and cutting skills I learned at STREETS definitely helped get me my job. Everything I learned prepared me to work in a big hotel like this.”

Dan believes that with hard work and passion she can be an executive chef in 5 years. We have no doubt she will achieve this goal.

“I want to thank STREETS for giving me this opportunity. Now that I have this job – with a good salary – I can help my family a lot. My parents don’t have to work so hard now. I am very proud to be a commis chef because I can cook by myself and help my colleagues.”

Mr Nguyen Xuan Do, Commis Chef at the Nam Hai Resort

Do exudes an infectious, happy energy when being photographed at the Nam Hai. Always smiling and enthusiastic, this 21 year old is clearly proud to be working as a commis chef in this esteemed 5 star resort.

“My main responsibilities include food preparation, such as cutting fruits, vegetables and checking the quality of items on the buffet. I also observe and learn from the older and experienced chefs, particularly on how to grill. My training at STREETS has given me a lot of confidence at the Nam Hai – I understand what the various cutting boards are for and can do many tasks (such as cutting fruits) with ease. Also, we learned basic sauces from France and Italy which have helped my understanding a lot and are useful at the Nam Hai,” Do said.

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Calendar

Hoi An is a heritage town brimming with tradition and plenty of activities.

This marked the end of the Vietnam war (30th April, 1975) and begin-ning of the country’s reunification. It is a public holiday

Also a public holiday, otherwise known as May Day or International Workers’ Day.

This Belgian artist of French-Viet-namese origins is also known for his musical performances. Ha will cruise the shores of An Bang beach, sounding out ideas and experimen-tal tunes in this unique solo show

on Labour Day. Guests will get an exclusive performance from Mat-thieu in a break from his lightning off storm tour through Japan and China. Soul bar is located on the far left side of An Bang beach Hoi An.

13thMonthly Friday Night Golf & BBQ Montgomerie Links

14th Swing to Swim Golf Charity Event Montgomerie Links

Join in this charity event to help support swimming programs for kids which help prevent drown-ing in Hoi An and Da Nang. Free swimming programs are essential in Vietnam which has a particularly high incidence of drowning. To learn more about the event contact Ms. Donna Tran – 0905 226 206.

16thHoi An Legendary Full Moon Night Every month the town celebrates the full moon with performances and special offerings to appease ancestors (you will see incense and food displayed on family altars or shrines placed in front of shop fronts). The atmosphere in town is lively and cheerful. Also, it is reminiscent of yesteryear, with fluorescent lights and all vehicles (including bicycles) banned inside the old quarter between 7 and 9:30pm.

19thBirthday of Ho Chi Minh

April 30thLiberation Day

May 1st Labour Day

Matthieu Ha @ Soul Bar

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Calendar

Hoi An is a heritage town brimming with tradition and plenty of activities.

The changing of the season and marking of the half year, Tet Doan Ngo is one of the most celebrated cultural festivals after the Vietnam-ese New Year. Plenty of festivities in the street and events such as dragon boat racing will be seen end of May and into early June.

14thHoi An Legendary Full Moon Night See earlier reference.

Showcase your skimming skills on An Bang beach near Soul bar. John has designed an amusing set of rules for skimmers. The highest cumulative total of skims wins. Prizes will be awarded. A massively enjoyable extravaganza not to be skipped! Starts in the afternoon. Contact jlidbetter@gmail.com or amy@livehoianmagazine.com for more details.

July 8thMonthly Friday Night Golf & BBQ Montgomerie Links

14thHoi An Legendary Full Moon Night See earlier reference.

14thFrench National Day –Check out La Plage Celebrate with friends at a party on the beach. Contact Denis at La Plage for more information on 0510 3928 244. La Plage is on the far right side (when facing the ocean) of the restaurant strip at An Bang beach

June 6th Tet Doan Ngo

10th

Monthly Friday Night Golf & BBQ Montgomerie Links

25thJohn Lidbetter’s All Weather Prize International Stoneskimming Competition.

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Open 7am - 7pm  |  229 Cua Dai Road, Hoi An, VietnamTel: 0906 552824

>> delicious

DINGO DELIVietnam

Thereís a lot to love about Dingo Deli:

• An Extensive Selection of Imported Gourmet Fine Foods from Around the World

• Hearty & Healthy Meals Include Fresh Salads, Gourmet Sandwiches and Desserts

• Great Coffee & Wine

• Meet n Mingle with New & Old Friends

Local PromotionsAl Fresco’s Set Lunch MenusExcellent value set lunch menus for 155,000 VND include three courses (with a variety of choices for starter, main and dessert) and coffee from 10:30am to 2:30 pm daily. Also happy hours on selected drinks occur from 6-8pm daily. Margaritas and mojitos are 50,000VND during this time. When Live Hoi An went to print Al Fresco’s were still offering 40% off all delivery.

Before & Now Daily Cocktail SpecialsDaily promotions from 6-12pm include beers, cocktails and shoot-ers. Tuesday nights are ladies nights from 9pm-2am women can buy 3 and get 1 free Amarula shots. Friday night is Jagermeister night from 9pm-2am, buy 3 free get 1 free of Jager shots, Jager-bombs, B52, Amarula or Springbok. Sunday is 20% off wine day (selected wines only).

Palm Garden Contino Club one for one Happy Hour Drink in the breathtaking surrounds of the Palm Garden resort – its lavish gardens are famous throughout Vietnam – while enjoying happy hour cocktails at the Contino Bar from 5 to 8pm every-day. Buy one drink and get one free to the same or lesser value. Also, you get a free snack during happy hour.

Victoria Hotel’s $12 Breakfasts For only $12 net outside guests can enjoy the ultimate breakfast buffet at the plush Victoria hotel. Freshly baked bread and platters of cheese are some of the highlights, although you can expect all the usual high-end buffet trimmings: hot dishes, eggs made to order, fresh juices … this is the best break-fast deal in town!

Waterfront Da Nang one for one Happy HourHappy hours everyday from 6 to 7pm include one for one drinks at Da Nang’s slickest restaurant/bar. Enjoy the riv-erside view with a comprehensive menu of beer, cocktails and bistro-style dishes. 150 Bach Dang St, 0511 384 3373.

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51 Le Loi - 0510 3910 599 - wwwbeforennow.com

Cool mixes of drinks and tunes. Funky, provocative art. Indie music. Vibrant, social atmosphere. Before and Now is Hoi An’s original and most happening hangout. Come make friends, be merry, play or dine. Fine Italian cuisine, exquisite desserts and local specialties are on the menu. Also, extensive wine and cocktail lists with daily promotions (happy hour 6pm-12am). Free pool, foosal and live satellite sports!

18 HOLE CHAMPIONSHIP GOLF COURSE

DESIGNED BY COLIN MONTGOMERIE

“2010 European Ryder Cup Captain and Eight-time European Tour Order of Merit winner Colin Montgomerie-better known as Monty to his worldwide fan base-has massaged massive greens and rippled fairways into the stunning backdrop, setting up an experience he believes will rank among the world’s finest. 18 holes and a well equipped 30 bay undercover driving range open till 9pm”

Email: reservations@montgomerielinks.com

Phone: +84 (510) 3 941 942

Address: Dien Ngoc Commune, Dien Ban District,

Quang Nam Province, Vietnam

COLIN

MONGOMERIE

DESIGN

www.montgomerielinks.com

Local Promotions

MONTGOMERIE LINKS PROMOTIONS

DRIVING RANGE PROMOTION

Golf Reservations to the email: reservations@montgomerielinks.com Tel: 0510 3 941 942/ Fax: 0510 3 941 940

FREE KIDS “LETS GO GOLF”

FREE Kids “lets go golf”Any child 18 years of age and under receives FREE golf including green fees, caddie fee and driving range balls when accompanied by a paying adult (member, members guest, guest). This offer is 100% free, no taxes, no surcharges, no add on.Terms:Valid until 31”December 2011.Offer not available on Sunday’s or Public Holidays from 6am - 12noon.1 adult may introduce a maximum of 3 children per day.Driving Range - adult must purchase 100 balls or the happy hours beer and balls promotion for the children to quality for free ballsRental equipment at regular prices.

HAPPY HOUR

The Links Café - Happy Hour from 4pm - 7pm DailyVND 100.000 Beer & Balls special - 1 pitcher of Draught Beer & 100 Driving Range Balls for 100.000VND 10.000 chicken wings - Choose from salt/pepper, bbq or spicy sauce Special happy hour food menu, meals priced form VND 75.000 - VND 130.000Spirits & Local beer - Buy One Get one free on all spirits and local beer.Conditions:Not to be used with any other promotionPrices exclu-sive of VAT and service chargesValid 4pm - 7pm Monday - Sunday

MONTHLY GOLF & BBQ EVENING 2ND FRIDAY OF EVERY MONTH9 Hole golf compettion + BBQ Buffet: 195,000 vnd*Book your tee time from 2.30 Pm + 3.30 Pm. Prizes awarded or the winnerPresentation dinner + BBQ buffet at5 6.00 PmFree shuttle bus to Da NangLeaves Montgomerie Links at 8.30 Pm and returns to Indochina riverside

MONTHLY GOLF & BBQ EVENING

Every First Sunday of the Month Balls & Golf Tips from Golf Professional Lee Marshall Brunch at Links Café From 9.00AM-10.00AM, Every first Sunday of the month Member: 105,000 VND net/person or FOC for any mem-bers who have at least 01 accompanied guest. Member/Guest: 210,000 VND net/person For reservation: Please contact us at reservations@mont-gomerielinks.com or call us at +84 5103 941 942. Program: 9.00 AM – 10.00 AM: 1 hour unlimited golf balls with light brunch available and golf tips by Golf Professional - Lee Marshall 10.00 AM: Event concludes

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against the poorest, weakest producers. It enables them to improve their position and have more control over their lives.

The 10 principles or standards that must be met by Fair Trade organizations worldwide are:

1. Creating Opportunities for Economically Disadvantaged Producers  A key aspect of Fair Trade is to reduce poverty and create economic

self-sufficiency and ownership. The organization supports marginalized small producers and community development.

2. Transparency and Accountability  The organization is transparent in its management and commercial

relations. The organization finds appropriate, participatory ways to involve employees, members and producers in its decision-making processes. 

3. Trading Practices  The organization trades with concern for the social, economic and

environmental well-being of marginalized small producers and does not maximize profit at their expense. 

4. Payment of a Fair Price  A fair price is one that has been mutually agreed by all through

dialogue and participation, which provides fair pay to the producers and can also be sustained by the market.

5. Child Labour and Forced Labour  The organization adheres to the UN Convention on the Rights of the

Child, and national / local law on the employment of children. The organization ensures that there is no forced labour in its workforce and / or members or homeworkers.  

6. Non Discrimination, Gender Equity and Freedom of Association  The organization does not discriminate in hiring, remuneration,

access to training, promotion, termination or retirement based on race, caste, national origin, religion, disability, gender, sexual orientation, union membership, political affiliation, HIV/AIDS status or age. 

7. Working Conditions  The organization provides a safe and healthy working environment

for employees and / or members.  It complies, at a minimum, with national and local laws and ILO conventions on health and safety.   

“To be charitable is a virtue. To be empowered is a human right.”

This quote struck me as I read through an eloquently written blog about Hoi An’s first – and to my knowledge, only – Fair Trade outlet. Mr Binh, founder and manager of the Reaching Out fair trade gift store, has often stressed the difference between the profit-oriented Fair Trade business and the non-profit charitable organizations that exist locally. Both have their merits and purposes yet the two should not be confused. One is defined by a sustainable business model, the other as an organization which provides to those who cannot provide for themselves.

Before I continue, I would like to affirm that Live Hoi An advocates the need to support local non-profit organizations – many of which provide education and an essential income to the disadvantaged. We certainly encourage donations and the purchasing of goods or services that give back to the underprivileged community in any form (please see Sam’s good business list on pages 24/25). But back to the point in question: what exactly does Fair Trade mean?

For many readers, Fair Trade is the symbol they see on a packet of coffee beans. Or the local outlet that sells exotic handwoven clothing and jewellery. We associate it with being ‘good’, but we may not altogether understand what it means and how it differs from donating or supporting a charity. For me personally, the easiest way to make the distinction between Fair Trade and charity is in the words ‘trade’ and ‘aid’.

The World Fair Trade Organization defines Fair Trade as: a trading partnership, based on dialogue, transparency and respect, that seeks greater equity in international trade. It contributes to sustainable development by offering better trading conditions to, and securing the rights of, marginalized producers and workers.

Fair Trade is about better prices, decent working conditions, local sustainability, and fair terms of trade for farmers and workers in the developing world. By requiring companies to pay sustainable prices (which must never fall lower than the market price), Fair Trade addresses the injustices of conventional trade, which traditionally discriminates

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8. Capacity Building  The organization seeks to increase

positive developmental impacts for small, marginalised producers through Fair Trade. The organization develops the skills and capabilities of its own employees or members.

9. Promotion of Fair Trade 

The organization raises awareness of the aim of Fair Trade and of the need for greater justice in world trade through Fair Trade.

10. Environment 

Organizations which produce Fair Trade products maximize the use of raw materials from sustainably managed sources in their ranges, buying locally when possible. All organizations use recycled or easily biodegradable materials for packing to the extent possible, and goods are dispatched by sea wherever possible.

Reaching Out

The Reaching Out retail store and workshop employs numerous artisans with “different abilities”. Rather than focus on a person’s disability, the Reaching Out philosophy is to harness their staff’s unique skills and aptitude. The Reaching Out gift store sells handicrafts, clothing and décor. You can find beautiful handmade lacquerware, table runners, cushion covers, clothes, bags, jewellery, ceramics and woodwork at the shop and everyone who enters is welcome – in fact, encouraged – to take a quick tour of the workshop at the back of the store.

At Reaching Out all of the artisans or sales people earn a ‘living wage’ meaning that they earn enough to save money as well as meet all their essential needs. They also work fair hours (no more than 6 days a week) with annual leave and leave such as maternity leave is granted in tandem with international standards.

All of the staff at Reaching Out take pride in their work and in the business. As Mr Binh says, “we work as a whole, each member of the team is important.” Moreover, the profit generated from retail sales goes back into training and development programmes for other people with disabilities.

“A potted plant needs constant care, but growing in its natural environment it prospers; so too with our independent and fulfilled employees. We believe that it is possible to break the cycle of poverty and dependence,” explains Mr Binh on the Reaching Out website. “We do not rely on donations, but instead rely on our own ingenuity and our fully integrated team to succeed.”

To read interviews from the staff at Reaching Out about what Fair Trade means to them – and also in general about the growth of Fair Trade in Vietnam and the region, I recommend the following blog by Mitch Teberg (also the writer whose quote I used at the beginning of this article) http://journeyforfairtrade.blogspot.com/2010_12_01_archive.html

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So what does the Vietnamese educational system look like and what are the challenges?

In Vietnam it is obligatory to attend primary school (grades 1-5; ages 6-11). The second tier is intermediate school (grades 6-9; ages 12-15) followed by secondary school/high school (grades 10-12; ages 16-18). A reflection of the direct and indirect costs of sending kids to school, according to the East Meets West Foundation, enrollment in high school is only about 50% with lower graduation rates. For a variety of cultural and other reasons, boys stand a better chance of staying in school than girls which is reflected in their literacy rates. Men’s literacy is 94% compared to 87% for women.

Despite rapid economic growth in the past decades, many still struggle to afford to send their kids to school. While the poorest kids have school fees waived, they still struggle to pay for the required uniforms and food at school. Costs vary but uniforms start at $4 each and food is $11-$36 per month per child. Another expense to consider is ‘extra tuition’. Without it, even bright students get poor results. Locally, extra tuition costs between $1.50 and $3.00 per subject per month. But high school students need to do 4 subjects per week so

1 Literacy is defined as the number of people over 15 who can read and write.2 Actual monthly income varies widely. $260 is the country’s GDP per person adjusted for purchasing power parity. Source: CIA World Fact Book Dec, 2010.

Last fall I was observing an Oxfam project that teaches farmers how to do basic financial analysis. At the time I was struck by the fact that their first priority was saving money to educate their children. Although Vietnamese parents are not alone in wanting to give their kids the best chance at success through education, it is an especially important part of Vietnamese culture and has led to an impressive literacy rate1 for a country that has gone through as much as this one in the past few decades. Vietnam’s literacy rate is just over 90%; basically on par with China’s (91%). Globally, Vietnam is ranked 121st in literacy – just behind Indonesia and ahead of neighbors Cambodia (74%) Laos (69%). (For readers interested in where your country ranks, here are a few… Finland is #1 (100%), while Australia, France, US, UK are each ranked with 99% literacy).

Getting An Education

Sam Miller

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and out of school. We find sponsors for each child who will take them through their education including vocational training or university. This sponsor gives the child they help both an education and reduces the risk of them being trafficked. CEF children are helped in three ways; they receive an education, have a safer childhood and will have a future with choices. Presently we are helping 110 children have such a life; this is very rewarding.” CEF school sponsorships are $150 or $200 per year. Contacts – Vietnam, Linda - mobile 0904 317163 and Australia, Graeme –mobile 0416177012 – in the USA, Stephen – mobile 917 301 0707.

While you’re in Hoi An, consider a donation to one of the many organizations who work in this field including Children’s Educational Foundation.

As the Chinese saying goes: “If you are planning for a year, sow rice; if you are planning for a decade, plant trees; if you are planning for a lifetime, educate people.”

Sam Miller is CEO of Xanh, a sustainable business consultancy providing strategy, marketing, product development and executive coaching services to businesses and NGOs. www.XanhConsulting.com

the costs add up quickly. (Keep in mind the average income is $260/month2.) For poorer families there is a double burden as the absence of help means life is harder on the family farm.

In addition to the financial pressure of paying school fees at the family level, the country has the added challenge of keeping up with a young and growing population. About 70% of Vietnamese are under 35 years old. With a population of nearly 90 million people growing at 1% per year, this adds about 1 million people per year giving the government a huge task to build enough new schools. In Hoi An, our population is about 80,000 and we have approximately 15,000 kids in school. In recent years, many in Hoi An (especially those in the city centre who work with tourists) have become wealthier and no longer struggle to pay for basic necessities. But still you don’t have to travel far (maybe 2 minutes on your bike) to see families living off a meagre and irregular income from farming or fishing. Typically, families earn between $10 - $150 per month.

As a way to address some of these issues, a long-term resident of Hoi An, Linda Hutchinson-Burn, has established a charity which is dedicated to help the local community with a focus on education. Linda’s activities started 13 years ago when she was travelling to Vietnam to some research on a Vietnamese cookbook and culinary tours. She began by helping a few children attend school and later formalized her efforts into a charity called Children’s Education Foundation (http://www.childrenseducationfoundation.org.au / and blog http://childrenseducationfoundation-vietnam.blogspot.com ). The primary goal is to assist girls and young women get the training and education they need to help them achieve their potential. In line with best practices in the development field, she works with local partners but supervises the work to ensure funds are spent as intended. It’s a challenging job, but rewarding, as Linda says “The children CEF helps are from impoverished families and were at risk of being trafficked due to being unsupervised

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her up in the afternoon. She makes an average of $5 a day from selling salt. She told us that she preferred to be divorced (we didn’t go into detail but we know that a divorce in Hoi An quite uncommon; there is a lot of stigma attached to a divorced woman) and also has special fortune-telling abili-ties. Sometimes, she says, spirits will enter her body and have control over her. We haven’t seen this yet but others testify that she can communicate with the dead; or that the dead have communicated through her! Trippy. Regardless, the other market sellers love Bich and so do we! Have a look for her when you walk through – she’s hard to miss at the corner of Bach Dang and Tran Quy Cap streets.

Aloes-ha ladies!Hua Thi Dan and Nguyen Thi

Sieng sell Aloeswood or what is also known as Agarwood. Both in their 70s, the women are busiest during times of celebration. The oil from aloeswood is meant to have many healing properties and the wood is often placed and burned on ances-

tral altars. These two women have an entertaining time in the market though – especially with curious tourists. Many foreigners ask what the wood is and the two ladies will happily proffer a sample to sniff – or to their greater amuse-ment – chew on!

Betel nut Ba

This 80 year old Ba (Ba is the Vietnamese term for an elderly lady) sells the legendary betel quid or areca nut. Her red-stained mouth and rotten teeth should give her away! Happy to educate inquisitive foreigners on how to make and chew the betel nut leaf with lime, this Ba is the best if you want to have a truly Asian experience. Warning: it will leave your gums stinging for a few hours!

Hoi An’s Market Ladies

Bazaar Lives:

Hoi An’s Market Ladies

Nguyen Thi Van

All Vietnamese towns have a market. It is central to everyday living; families buy their fresh herbs and produce twice daily for meals. In Hoi An, however, the market has even more significance – it has a long history as a trading centre. It is also quite traditional. Unlike in the larger metropolises of HCMC and Hanoi, the Hoi An market is a women’s domain. It would be rare to see a man manning the Hoi An stalls.

There are numerous women in the local market who have interesting stories. Many of them are local fixtures; well-known and fondly respected by both Vietnamese locals and expats alike. Their sociable and humourous outlook can make for a great cultural exchange. For this issue, we inter-viewed a few of the more noticeable and older market sellers.

Seasoned seller“Hello, come on, take my picture,

one dollar,” trills Nguyen Thi Bich, a won-derfully eccentric salt seller with a broad smile and an even broader sense of humour. Wearing a vivid ao dai, make-up and pearls, Bich loves to have her photo taken. Of course she likes to be paid too – a photo will cost a foreigner $1! But her quirky, fun-loving personality is worth it in our opinion. She often sings country folk songs, completely unconcerned as to who is listening or observing her. Bich is a unique individual. She is divorced and lives with her two nephews and daugh-ter-in-law. Everyday her family drive her to the market to sell salt and then pick

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Amy Morison

Romantically poised between the river and lush rice paddies that line the road to An Bang beach, the Tra Que herb garden is one of Hoi An’s natural treasures. For more than a century, herb artisans – their growing skills and knowledge is considered an artform – have been supplying the town with a variety of organic fresh herbs and vegetables. The impressive Tra Que community comprises 45 hectares in which 245 families reside. All of the produce is grown without any insecticides and with traditional irriga-tion and watering methods. The soil is compacted with fermented river weed which contains the essential minerals needed to grow this famously verdant local produce.

According to Mr Nguyen Phuoc Kien, a 55 year old herb artisan, the herbs grown in Tra Que have a unique freshness and flavour that you can-not find anywhere else in Vietnam.

“Herbs play as an important role to Vietnamese cooking as rice does and the herbs and vegetables we grow in Tra Que have a special taste. The people in Hoi An know this; when they go out of town they notice how dif-ferent the taste of food is because the herbs are not as good,” he explained.

Mr Kien further noted a common phrase in Vietnamese which trans-lates to “eat herbs when you are healthy, drink herbs when you are sick”. He

Heart of Health:

Herb Garden Herb Garden

Fish ladyLe Thi Hoang has been selling fish

all her life. She loves to bargain; having light-hearted arguments over prices and quality. When foreigners come along, she is almost always thoroughly entertained by the hand gestures and charade games she has to play in order to sell / negotiate on the fish.

Tea Lady

Every morning Phung Thi Thien rises to boil green tea leaves and bring to the market to sell. She has a seat in a small corner of the market where she aims to catch those who’ve finished their shopping and need a moment to rejuvenate. While she only makes a meagre $2-$3 a day, she enjoys selling tea and bringing comfort to her customers.

Organic birdMai Thi Phung is known by most of

the Vietnamese as the foremost market chicken lady. She raises her birds at home; on natural grains and free range. She reck-ons her chicken tastes better than that of the supermarket because it is organic and we tend to agree, although compared with ‘Western’ chickens the local birds are very small in size. For the local palate, however, Phung’s birds are the best!

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Ms Khuyen said that instead of going to the pharmacy for common ailments, locals will use herbal recipes instead. She gave a few examples: “To treat cough we will mix citrus fruit, palm sugar and ground shisa leaves together and boil for 10 minutes. We then drink this while it’s hot to alleviate a harsh throat and cough. Also for the cold, you can boil some lemongrass with lime leaves, salt and garlic for 30 min-utes. Then place a blanket over your head and inhale the steam. You will feel better almost immediately.”

Having lived in Tra Que all her life, Ms Khuyen stressed the importance of maintaining the organic traditions. Also

reiterating Mr Kien’s comments, she said that the seaweed used from the nearby lagoon was a potent natural fertilizer and gives the herbs and veg-etables a distinctive taste. It is because of these traditional methods that Tra Que is famous and that the herbs are sought after by market sellers in both Da Nang and Hue as well as in Hoi An.

There are tours available to those interested in learning the farming techniques and trying some of the local recipes that families make in Tra Que. However, you can also just ride your bicycle into the village to have a look at the artisans in action. To understand the value of herbs and their use in both herbal remedies and local recipes we recommend purchasing the Taste Vietnam cookbook by Hoi An’s teaching chef Trinh Diem Vy (go to Morning Glory restaurant on 106 Nguyen Thai Hoc or see www.restaurant-hoian.com).

says almost all Vietnamese understand the nutritional value of what they are eating and the medicinal functions that herbs, vegetables and spices can have. Mr Kien and his neighbours seldom go to the pharmacy or hospi-tal – they only go if they are having serious health issues. Instead they rely on traditional medicine and methods which have been taught and passed down from generation to generation.

“For example, ginger helps enhances your energy and reduces stress; it is good when you fell exhausted. Lemongrass is very useful in helping prevent cold or influenza. Red shisa we put in congee when we are sick and it really helps to cure a cold. We also use basil, cinnamon, betel leaves, cucumber, melon and coconut in therapeutic massage – they all have good properties for detoxifying the skin,” he said.

Another herb artisan, Ms Nguyen Thi Khuyen, echoes Mr Kien’s passion for Tra Que. This vibrant 77 year old inherited her plot of land and knowledge of herbs from her ancestors. While she is elderly, she happily wakes early every morning to tend to her herb and vegetable plot – it is both her livelihood and passion.

“All kind of herbs here are good for health, and we eat them regularly in our home cooking. Without them we feel that our food doesn’t have fla-vour. Fresh herbs are also what make special dishes such as My Quang and Cao Lau taste so good,” she said. “Herbs also act as natural medicines. For example, Pennywort helps relieve bad acne and assists the liver. Celery we use for high blood pressure and to sooth a sort throat when the weather changes.”

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through the spectator-lined streets of Hoi An to a stage near the Japanese Bridge. Many of the women commented on how unique the experience was.

When visiting Hoi An, you should try a Cyclo once. There’s no need to feel condescending or snobbish when riding a Cyclo – most drivers do not feel demeaned by their job, in fact the image of a Cyclo and driver symbolizes the hardworking Vietnamese ethos and preserves an impor-tant part of Vietnam’s cultural history.

According to Mr Huynh Tranh, who is 65 years old and has the Cyclo number plate 001, the Cyclos of Hoi An are managed by four government agencies (Hoi An police, old town administration office, labour and social welfare service and cultural office) so the prices are regulated and tourists are always safe. He has 33 years experience on the Cy-clo and takes people around the old town but also as far as the beach. To go from central Hoi An to Cua Dai beach it is 70,000 VND one way (about US $3.50) or 100, 000 VND for a return (about US $5). Cyclos are commonly stationed near the old market (where the buses and taxis park) and by the Japanese bridge.

Phil Mellifont is married to Ms Mung – proprietor of Lotus Jewellery, 82 Tran Phu & 100 Nguyen Thai Hoc.

The Cyclo (xich lo) is a modified three-wheeled bicycle invented by the French in the early 19th century, where the driver is perched behind a wide shaded seat that can accommodate up to three people.

Once the luxurious form of transportation for French and Vietnamese nobles in Vietnam, the Cyclo continued to be a common mode of transport for local people and the delivery of goods up until the motorcycle boom of the mid 1990’s.Even until recently the Cyclo was often used to deliver mothers and newborn babies from the hospital and today you can see the occasional hard working Cyclo driver in Da Nang delivering sacks, boxes, wooden beds and all manner of goods.

Ironically, Vietnam tourism has saved the Cyclo from extinction and in Hoi An a Cyclo ride is a charming way to see the old town. The Cyclo’s themselves are kept in perfect condition and the drivers wear smart uni-forms. Cyclo’s are perfect for tourists – they travel slow enough for guests to see the sights, safe enough when travelling through chaotic traffic, and romantic enough for lovers young and old to share.

As part of the 2008 Miss Universe pageant, the Miss Universe delegates were collected from their resort at the beach and transported

Phil Mellifont and Tran Gia Duc

Cyclos of time

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“We must be like the Chicken, finding small tasty morsels; we’re not like the Pigs – IBM and Hewlett Packard – who have all the best food brought to them”. This was my first introduction into Chinese horoscope mythology and Asian farmyard wisdom. I was working for the Australian division of what was then, the world’s third largest computer manufacturer.

The presenter was the Managing Director – an intelligent, sincere, hard working man, who radiated both quiet humility and integrity. Born to a simple farming family in Taiwan, educated as a teacher who had risen to lofty heights of corporate management, responsible for multi-million dollar accounts and a significant production facility housed within the Sydney Olympic Park precinct during those exciting days leading up to the 2000 Olympics. Since those early days, the company has enjoyed even greater success, even having a nearby arena named after them.

The company’s core business was manufacturing computers, laptops, servers and all variety of IT hardware for the big names, IBM, HP even Apple, and at this stage they were striving to establish their own brand, marketing and selling computers and IT solutions under the manufacturers own mark.

So IBM and HP are the pigs huh? Growing up in suburban Australia in the sixties and seventies- a pig wasn’t anything to be admired. Street protesters would often shout ‘pigs’ to intervening police. A messy bedroom was often referred to as ‘a pigsty’, and scrap food waste was often collected in a separate bin at school apparently to be fed to the pigs. If you messed up a page or spilt food over your uniform you would often be called ‘messy pig’. My working class parents paid a small fortune to achieve a private Catholic education for their children, and in those days we had a teacher who would often refer to students as ‘snivelling porkers’.

So growing up in a Western culture, a pig was considered a dirty thing to be reviled, yet apparently not so in the high stake competitive world of IT sales – IBM and HP were the pigs, all the good accounts would just come to them, but we chickens had to seek out our meagre opportunities.

On moving to Vietnam, I soon found out that there’s a different calen-dar and consequently a different horoscope that affects my luck and future. Originally I was somewhat dismayed to find I was ‘a Pig’. Years of schooling had caused me to despise anything piggish, even the character Piggy in the novel ‘Lord of the Flies’ was detested and eventually killed due to his piggish looks and behaviour. Why do I have to be a pig?

But in fact I’ve come to learn that in Asia, perhaps the most opulent sign of the horoscope is the ‘Pig’. Pigs are a sign of wealth. They are prized and cared for by their owners and indeed unlike the chickens who must wander to find their meal, the pigs are often presented with their food everyday. They are a type of farmyard royalty. Children will keep their sav-ings in a clay pig. Calendars will often depict golden pigs overflowing with a trove of coins and riches.

Asian people are great believers in the Chinese horoscope, so much so that couples will attempt to have a baby in fortunate years and avoid

On being a Pig in the Year of the Cat

Phil Mellifont

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having one in others. Some beliefs are sexist also, very few Vietnamese men want a ‘Tiger’ wife – they’re considered too feisty; too difficult.

The year 2011 welcomed the Vietnamese “Year of the Cat”. It’s easy to recognize the word cat in Vietnamese as it’s precisely the sound that a cat makes: “Meo”. Any quick glance at a Chinese horoscope page will reveal there is no such year in China. The Chinese celebrate ‘The Year of the Rabbit’ – it is the only animal in the 12 year calendar that is different between Vietnam and China. There is a possibility that this came from language interpretation: Rabbit in Chinese is , which is pronounced ‘Tu’. Meanwhile, the Chinese astrology calendar symbol for Rabbit is ‘Mao’. The symbol for the cat in Chinese is , but pronounced ‘Mau’. It is possible that the word ‘Mao’ was heard as ‘Mau’ by the Vietnamese people long ago. Since the current word for cat in Vietnamese is also very close to the sound of ‘Mau’ then this possible misinterpretation could be the reason for the difference. Although others speculate that the cat has more significance in Vietnamese culture; particularly in the farming culture. Cats are considered useful animals that have calm personalities and are opposed to rats. Also, you don’t see rabbits in Vietnam. The Vietnamese Year of the Cat symbolizes sensitivity, gentle-ness and kindness. It is also a good year for we ‘Pigs’ apparently: 2011 is said to be a progressive and enjoyable time for Pigs. Hopefully that rings true for me!

Phil Mellifont is married to Ms Mung, owner of Lotus Jewellery, 82 Tran Phu street and 100 Nguyen Thai Hoc street in the old quarter of Hoi An. Lotus Jewellery have Chinese Horoscope pendants crafted in silver. They are very affordable and make for excellent gifts.

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You know you’ve become Vietnamese:

• When you keep your motorcycle helmet on when enter-ing a shop, office or bank.

• When all food tastes dull without fish sauce. In fact, you consume more fish sauce than your Vietnamese counterparts.

• When you wear your pajamas out of the house. Also, when you start to wonder why they were even con-sidered pajamas back home; they look just like regular clothes.

• When you no longer flinch at total strangers asking for your age, marital status and income in the first 30 sec-onds of a conversation.

• When you spend more than 2 hours drinking the local coffee. At this point you can no longer drink coffee at all without condensed milk. You also prefer the taste of Vietnamese coffee to an Italian espresso.

• When you think it is normal to have more than two people on a motorbike.

• When you start making a left or right-hand turn 200 metres before the road ends. And then to avoid stopping altogether at the intersection, you ride against the ongo-ing traffic until the coast is clear to cross over.

• When you text or continue to receive calls while riding your motorbike, even during peak hour.

• When your living room doubles as a parking lot.

• When you can comfortably sleep on your motorbike like a xe om driver in the middle of the day.

• When the red light doesn’t mean stop under all circum-stances.

• When you throw your rubbish casually on the floor at the seafood restaurant.

• When cleaning out your ears or picking your nose in a public place feels perfectly acceptable.

• When (applicable to males) you grow out your pinkie fingernail in order to clean out your ears more effectively.

Going local:

How Vietnamese are you ?Amy Morison

There comes a point when every foreigner living abroad real-izes that they’ve truly gone local. Especially in scenarios when a person of ‘Western’ origin goes ‘East’. The differences between culture and lifestyle are significant. Not that the populations of the ‘East’ or ‘West’ are by any means homogeneous. But there are some shared cultural features within Asia that those who have been in the region long enough have definitely adopted. Such as removing your shoes before entering a home. Or having the expert ability to use that hose and faucet next to the toilet (known colloquially as the “bum gun”) without squirting water all over your clothes and the floor. Or (this may cause a ‘tsk tsk’ from many a reader) when you drink your beer with ice. Actually it’s the point when you can no longer drink a glass of beer without adding ice that you’ve properly tipped over the local threshold – homeland friends will possibly dismiss you altogether at this stage. But what traits are distinctly Vietnamese? How do you know if you’re turning Vietnamese-ah?

In order to answer that question, I asked several locals of foreign-origin to send me their feedback. Their replies resulted in this rather amusing list. Before you read the list, however, I’d like to remind you that this is done in good humour and is not meant to cause any of-fence. If the coin was flipped there would no doubt be many intrica-cies that Vietnamese living abroad would find strange (if not a little crazy) at first – and then, slowly but surely, adapt and confirm to the local norm. That is the premise of this column.

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• When you no longer notice the horns of the motorbikes when you go to bed. Or the dogs barking.

• When you ignore the horns of other vehicles wanting to pass you on the road.

• When you have a casual conversation with another person or three whilst riding your bike on the road. You continue this conversation despite the incessant honking from the vehicle behind who wants to pass.

• When you start eating lunch at 11:30am and then have a nap from 12 to 1:30pm.

• When you can happily sleep on a sedge mat instead of a bed. And that you can also share that room with an entire Vietnamese family.

• When a persons’ calves look weird without a ‘Saigon Kiss’ (ie, the burn mark left from a motorbike exhaust).

• When the market vendor thinks you’ve ripped them off.

• When you roll your eyes at the tourist who, having tipped the street vendor a 500 dong note, acts like they’ve been extremely generous.

• When you start referring to waiters outside of Vietnam as “em oi”.

• When you use the expression “troi oi” (which can be an expression of surprise, disgust, disappointment or irrita-tion) many times throughout the day.

• Transport furniture, a refrigerator or a large flatscreen TV home by motorbike.

• When you cannot go without eating rice and a decent bundle of local herbs at least once a day.

• When you cannot go more than 2 days without a mi quang, cao lau or pho.

• When a pho session becomes an essential end to a long night of drinking.

• When you consider beer to be expensive at 20,000 dong ($1).

• When you start wearing a face mask while riding your bike.

• When you consider flip flops a suitable shoe for every occasion.

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printing t-shirts in high school and sold them to friends. He later worked as a contract printer to various companies in Sydney and then set up his own company in 1994. Meanwhile, Jennie, who studied at the City Art Institute, started her own swimwear business, Somersault, in Sydney in 1984. They combined their talents to form Bigstar ScreenPrinter and then made the move to Vietnam 4 years ago, bringing 3x40 foot containers of screen printing equipment and their pet Shitzu, Minime.

Originally the duo rented a space in the KCN industrial zone in Quang Nam – the same zone where businesses such as Reiker shoes have their factories. However, after living and working in the area for more than 3 years, they found an opportunity to build their own factory on land owned by the agricultural cooperative of Vien Trung village.

The head of the cooperative, Mr Kiet, is very happy to rent the land to small foreign-owned businesses such as SaoViet; as it give his administration income to provide services for the village and also increases employment opportunities.

“I believe that working with small business ventures such as SaoViet will help develop the area and our economy. It also gives the people here a chance to get additional employment; in areas outside of agriculture,” he explained.

For John and Jennie, the experience of building their factory and working with Mr Kiet has been very positive.

“Dealing with the local people socially and with work has been a 10+ out of 10 experience. Anyone has the opportunity to come to Vietnam and share their business knowledge will find that their horizons will grow beyond expectation.”

When screen printers John and Jennie Walsh moved to Hoi An from Australia in 2007 it was a strategic move; they wanted to be closer to their manufacturers. Now they can’t imagine having their business anywhere else – they are literally living the dream.

“The people are definitely what we love most about living and working in Hoi An. Business always has its stresses but finding motivated and committed staff that have impeccable attention for detail and the ability to meet deadlines has made business much more enjoyable,” they explained. “The peaceful nature of the people in Hoi An make it a beautiful place to live. Also, the progressive People’s Committee and the Viem Trung Village Cooperative in Dien Ngoc (just north of Hoi An) were extremely helpful and instrumental in turning our dream of building our own factory into a reality. We now have a 50 year business license with no intention of missing a year.”

John and Jennie’s screen printing business Sao Viet (meaning star of Vietnam) have an exclusive contract to create t-shirts and baby / toddler wear for the ‘Fred Bare’ clothing label in Australia. But they also do most of the designs for local companies in Hoi An, including t-shirts for Cham Island Diving, Victoria Resort’s Ural Side Cars and Hoi An Motorbike Adventures to name just a few.

Their own label ‘Hot Chili’ is also very popular throughout Da Nang and Hoi An – you can find t-shirt and dress designs throughout all the

major hotel lobby shops and in individual retail stores in Hoi An. The label was named after their Vietnamese dog “Chili”, whose cute caricature appears on the label.

Both Australian, John and Jennie have been in the design and fashion industry for most of their working lives. John starting

Local CO-OPeration:

In good companyAmy Morison

50 51

How does the coop work?Agricultural cooperatives work similar to a company and its shareholders. Prior to 1986 (when Vietnam shifted into a market-oriented economy), cooperatives followed the instructions from the state authority. Assets, labour and distribution of services were collectivized. From 1986 to present, however, Vietnam underwent an economic change. Farmers were allotted their own land for production and the cooperative instead became an organization which represented their interests. Individuals pay a fee to be a member of the cooperative and the cooperative also takes care of the trading of their goods. If disaster strikes, the cooperative has an emergency fund to aid those who have been most afflicted. So while farmers get paid for what they produce, they are also insured by the cooperative in the event of any disaster that would affect their production. The cooperative also buys and sells assets and provides services such as electricity, electrical or communication cables and irrigation supply. The administration is based on a vote system – management or a board of directors are elected by the members. Each member has one vote.

For a better understanding of how the agricultural cooperatives work, I recommend reading this paper: http://www.agnet.org/library/eb/580/

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Green Chili - Ớt Xanh122 Nguyen Thai Hoc St., Hoi An Phone: +84 5103 928 199 Mobile: +84 918 088 468 info@greenchilihoian.com www.greenchilihoian.com

Spicing up Hoi AnSteaks and ribs off the grill. American and Tex Mex classics.

Homemade pastas by a proper Italian-trained chef. Green Chili offers a variety of high-quality dishes to suit all kinds of palates. Founded and managed by husband and wife team Hanh and Jackie, the restaurant offers warm hospitality in addition to excellent home-style and gourmet cooking! Whether you’re seeking comfort food or an exquisite mesh of East and West, Green Chili has a menu to satisfy all appetites. Both chefs Nando and Scott are two of the best in Hoi An and run a tight ship to ensure that the customer experience is nothing less than exceptional – and personal.

“We treat all our customers as old friends. We have an extensive menu of Tex Mex, Western, Mediterranean and Vietnamese classics, but are flexible to cater to a specific customer’s taste,” says Jackie.

To match an eclectic and well-executed menu, Green Chili has an extensive cocktail and wine list. Top shelf and rare tequilas and mescals are also available.

Two locations: 82 Tran Phu & 100 Nguyen Thai HocHoi An, Vietnam - Tel: +84 0510 3917 889

WhileHoiAnisrenownedforitsartsandcrafts,theexplosionoftourismoverthelastdecadehasalsoseenariseinstoressellingitemsalmostidenticalfromoneplacetothenext.Findingastorethatsellsuniquehandmadeitemsoflocaldesignandcreationisnoteasy.LotusJewelleryisonesuchestablishment–itliterallyisagemofastorewherecustomersaremetwithatreasuretroveoffine,locally-made,hand-craftedjewelleryanduniquepiecescollectedfromacrossAsia.

FoundedandownedbyMsNguyễnThịMẫn(callherMsMung),LotusJewelleryislocatedbesidetheMuseumofTradeCeramicsat82TranPhustreetintheoldquarter.UsingonlypuresilverandgenuineAsianjewels,freshwaterpearlsandshells,thecollectionsarevariedbutmostlydrawonethnicornaturalinspirations.

WhileMsMungismeticulousaboutthedesignandcraftingofeachpiece,theatmosphereattheshopisrelaxedandinviting.Forcustomers,itisoftenarefreshingexperiencetowalkintooneoftheLotusshopsandnothavetoworryabouthagglingornegotiatingonprice.Thepricesarefixedandfair.Also,thebrandisarecognizedandtrustedone,knownforitsconsistencyinprovidinghighqualityproducts.Popintoher‘jewel’ofastoreduringyourstay–itisbyfarthemostbeautifuljewelleryshopinallofHoiAn.

www.lotusjewellery-hoian.com

byEtienneBossot

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byEtienneBossot

60 61

All photos taken by Etienne Bossot, Live Hoi An maga-

zine’s staff photographer and founder of the original

Hoi An Photo Tour. If you’d like to see more of Etienne’s

work or get an interesting picture perspective of Hoi

An we suggest you join his tour - www.hoianpho-totour.com - or call 0905

671 898.

byEtienneBossot

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Uyen Trinh’s Fashion Art

Born in 1972, Uyen Trinh has been painting and studying art since she was a little girl. Her collections of Art-Nature are colourful depictions of living creatures and nature’s elements. Having both the skills of a tailor and the vision of an artist, Uyen’s eclectic Art Fashion collections have featured widely in magazines and guides, including the Lonely Planet who named her a “funky designer”. She loves to share her passion for silk painting with others and hosts workshops for interested learners.

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Design is material. avAna unique handmade clothing and accessory designs blend elegant fabrics

with funky materials. It’s wearble art with an edge.

www.hoiandesign.cominfo@hoiandesign.com - 0510 3 911 611 - 57 Le Loi

In December, when the editors of GOLF Magazine (US) — the world’s most popular golf publication — unveiled its top 15 courses to open world-wide in 2010, Vietnam was given reason to feel it had finally arrived as an international golf destination. 

That’s because, for the first time, one of the country’s golf courses — The Dunes Course at Danang Golf Club — made the kind of prestigious list every golf club from Danang to Dornoch strives to be on.

“It doesn’t get much bigger than GOLF,” said Howie Roberts, general manager of Danang GC. “You know you’ve done something right when that spotlight turns on you.”

And to think: There’s even more to come where former world No. 1 player Greg Norman built his very first course in Vietnam.

In February, a major piece of the proverbial puzzle will be unveiled at Danang GC — the clubhouse. Almost a year in the making, the 4,044-square-metre, three-story facility designed by internationally acclaimed architectural firm Hassell will be more than a place to lace up those soft spikes. It will be a one-stop shop for everything golfers love about the game and the lifestyle that surrounds it.

For proof, one need only look to the men’s locker room, where a special member’s area has been carved out featuring 60 full-length lockers and a lounge area with plush sofas.

On the main level, one floor up from the locker rooms, an equally impressive set-up greets guests, highlighted by:

A fully-stocked pro shop, where players check in and the latest and greatest brand-name equipment — such as Titleist, Foot-Joy, Taylor Made and adidas golf equipment is available.

Floor-to-ceiling windows revealing the gently tiered contours of the dune topography on which the building is set, as well as the plateau of Marble Mountains in the distance; and Expansive, glass curtain walls and meshed cladding that enhance the sense of a natural transition from exterior to interior — an atmosphere that is invit-ing rather than grandiose. Upstairs, a member’s terrace, sleek bar and lounge called Hickories (in honor of the type of wood the world’s first golf club shafts were constructed from) and private dining room beckon those seeking more sweeping views of the stunning Central Coast region in the highest comfort.

Danang Golf ClubDanang province on main coastal road0511 3958 111www.dananggolfclub.cominfo@dananggolfclub.com

Danang Golf Club’Sdazzling clubhouse closes in on debut

Golf DANANG

The Asian Golf Industry Foundation (AGIF) who awarded The Montgomerie Links Vietnam a USD $10,000 grant to promote their “Grow the

Game” initiative across all socioeconomic strata in the Central Coast region has successfully concluded with over 3000 Vietnamese being newly intro-duced to the game.

As part of their strategy, The Montgomerie Links took golf to an array of local schools, retail outlets and mixed used developments where British PGA professional Lee Marshall, assisted by a number of his local coach protégées, embarked on putting golf clubs in people’s hands, teaching them the basic golf skills and introducing the concepts of the sport.

“It’s extremely gratifying for The Montgomerie Links to accomplish our goal and introduce over 3000 Vietnamese to golf for the first time thanks to the AGIF grant with support from the Vietnam Golf Association” said general director Jon Tomlinson, “Most important, it’s an affirmation of our passion for, and approach to, bringing golf to the area which now also allows The Montgomerie Links to drive our instructional golf program “Let’s Go Golf” to encourage these new golfers to become regularly active in the sport”,

Wong Khen Jee, President of AGIF, commented, “The AGIF is very satis-fied with the completion of our initial “Grow the Game” program in Vietnam. The Montgomerie Links team was very thorough and professional in their implementation of the program and we hope that many of the thousands of Vietnamese introduced to golf will continue to learn and play this great game.”

Let’s Go Golf is a comprehensive, one-hour introductory golf program created by The Montgomerie Links and designed to introduce people to the game of golf through the basic requirements and skill, thereby remov-ing any undue unease over visiting a golf club for the first time. Budding players learn the essential terminology, how the equipment functions, and fundamental techniques – grip, posture, alignment, and so forth – for both full-swing and short-game shots and since its inception has created an abun-dance of new active golfers within the community, all part of Montgomerie Links’ original mission statement to provide affordable golf opportunities.

The Montgomerie Links currently holds the prestigious title of “The Best Golf Course is Vietnam” and in April 2010, victorious European Ryder Cup Captain and eight-time European Order of Merit winner; Colin Mont-gomerie recorded the club’s course record with a faultless four under par round of 68.

For more information on the Let’s Go Golf program or The Montgomerie Links please visit www.montgomerielinks.com

The Montgomerie Linksintroduces Golf to over 3000

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While Thu and Pascal Rousseau only started their bicycle company Heaven & Earth over 1 year ago, the idea has been in planning for more than 14 years. And while the idea may not seem original, the tour definitely is, literally transporting tourists to an unspoiled landscape that only rural locals know of.

“My wife Thu is from Hoi An and we spent a year here following our wedding in 1996. Her family showed me the countryside, the real island countryside of Hoi An and I loved to go there because it was so quiet and beautiful,” he explained. “So the idea is very old. Every time we would visit the family, I would go cycling into the countryside and always thought that it would be a wonderful experience for tourists.”

Moreover, Pascal wants to give back to the community, and his tour helps supplement the income of many people in the countryside who are much poorer than those who live in Hoi An town. He offers two tours, one that leaves in the morning and includes a lunch with a village family, and one in the afternoon, climaxing in the sunset as you come back into the old quarter.

Both take you into the ‘wilder’ part of Hoi An, starting by boat to an island, where you explore beyond rice fields landscapes and through rivulets, cornfields and native woodlands. You will see traditional crafts made up close. Not only woodcarvers but people that weave sedge mats, work with mother of pearl and make bricks in the old style. Pascal also relays stories passed on from his wife’s grandmother and shows tourists local treasures such as a 250 year old family tree book.

The half day tours are $15 (without lunch) and $19 (with lunch). Groups are kept small (maximum 10) so that all guests maximize properly on the tour features.

Heaven & Earth57 Ngo Quyen St - 012 2952 7365 - 0510 3864 362 www.vietnam-bicycle.com

Hoi An’s most original bike tourAmy Morison

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Traveling in the sidecar means you have the same visibility as from the actual bike but it’s seriously comfortable. The robust car and wheel is designed to take on poor roads so going through mud and rough terrain is not an issue. The bikes were originally used by the Russian military and are deliberately designed to take on bumpy, wintery roads.

To learn more about the sidecar tours that Victoria resort in Hoi An offers, contact the resort and set up a meeting with Claude. The tours make for an experience of a lifetime!

URAL Vintage Side Car Tours

Victoria Hoi An Resort & Spa

Cua Dai Beach -0510 3927 040

www.victoriahotels-asia.com

Activities

Amy Morison, photos by Alain Guillemot

Nothing beats the sense of freedom you feel when biking through Vietnam. With its mountainous terrain and winding roads, biking is the best way to access the country’s most dramatic landscapes and unique hill tribe culture. And not just any bike, but riding a classic, like the 650cc Ural, makes all the difference to the experience.

Anyone who knows Claude Balland, GM of Victoria Resort in Hoi An, knows his passion for the Ural. His beautifully painted Russian motorcycles and sidecars are a well-known fixation at the resort – and so are his tours. With the Victoria vintage sidecars, tourists get a classic bike experience without the discomfort (to your backside after several hours) or stress of having to ride it.

Claude’s side car tours range from day trips to Sontra Peninsular (around US$60 including lunch) to fully-fledged week long adventures that take you to the Laos border and up to North Vietnam. As an experienced biker, Claude has ventured throughout most of Vietnam’s terrain. His team of mechanics and local guides also ensure both a safe and educational journey.

One of the most memorable journeys you can have in Vietnam is trav-eling from the centre up into the surrounding mountains and hill tribes. Moreover, venturing further into Phong Nga province you will see one of the most magnificent caves in the world. Phong Nga has only recently become recognized as a site of magical significance – no doubt it will make one of the great wonders of the world list soon. The amazing contours of the Northern landscape around Sapa are also unforgettable.

Rev into action Vintage sidecar style

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each year 200 try out for only a handful of cards. Or the second option is to do a 3 year apprenticeship under another professional at a golf course where one learns the basics on running a golf shop, repair-ing clubs, learning how to teach golf, and how to run a golf course for members and the public. Examinations and playing tests are conducted throughout the 3 years to ensure proficiency. My

brother chose the first option, I chose the second.

5. Why is it important to have an instructor with a PGA qualification?

There are a number of Golf Teaching groups around the world, GTF(Golf Teachers Federation, USGTF(from USA) and others, where anyone can pay US $2000 for a week of training and at the end of the week get a certificate. In Asia one can start earning money with this certification. There are two schools a year in Thailand that do this. The problem with people who take this track is that they haven’t had the intense scrutiny on their golf game and more impor-tantly they haven’t had their abilities as a golf teacher tested. When I started my apprenticeship there were 43 others with me. At the graduation ceremony there were only 12 of us left. We were trained very intensely on all aspects of the game and on our teaching and management. Sadly new golf players don’t fully understand the differences between a PGA qualification and golf teaching certificate. In which case they might pay hard earned dollars for a poor golf lesson, from which they will improve very little, if at all.

6. What is unique about the practice facility?

Our practice facility boasts a host of swing computerization aids, club fitting kiosks from Titleist and Taylor Made making it a standout in Da Nang as far as technology and custom fitting of golf clubs goes. Our practice fairway has strategically placed bunkering, matching the shapes and sand consistency of what one will find out on the course. We have a wonderful short game area with bunkers, even a fairway bunker for those long sand shots, and of course our huge rolling putting green which is always kept at the same rolling speed as those on the course.

7. What words of encouragement would you have for “virgin” golfers?

New golfers should not feel awkward or uncomfortable about hitting a few balls at the range, everyone who has ever played the game has to start somewhere. There is nothing better than feeling the sun on your back as you stroll along the golf course. I’d suggest a few lessons to get the basics of the game understood. I personally film each student and produce a 7-8 minute video file which is emailed to them a few days after the lesson. It assists the student to adjust to the changes required for improvement without forgetting vital points. Golf is a great game so to be able to do something you love, and to work in a place like Vietnam, to me that is better than winning the lottery!

Activities

Golf lessonsIn the swing of it:

Amy Morison

With the recent addition of professional golfing facilities along the central coast, there are is plenty of incentive to learn the game of golf. This issue we talked to Philip W. Wright, the Golf Operations Manager and Head PGA Golf Professional at Danang Golf Club.

1. Tell us about your golfing background:

I started playing golf when I was 8 years old and in my teenage years I played at junior and state levels. From 1980 to 1988 I travelled the world working as Ian Baker-Finch’s caddy. Then I commenced a 3 year PGA apprenticeship and in 1991 gained the role as head professional at Chel-

tenham GC in Victoria, Australia, which I held for 11 years. In 2002, I travelled to Mission Hills GC in Shenzhen, China to work for the David Leadbetter Academy. In 2006, I returned to Melbourne as a PGA Professional at Glen Waverley GC. Then in 2010 I accepted the role as Head Professional at Danang GC, Vietnam

2. What is it like working in Da Nang?

My brother Brad is also a Golf Professional and works in HCMC and he suggested I come to Vietnam to have a look. I worked in HCMC for 9 months before coming to Da Nang. I grew up on the beaches of Australia, so Da Nang felt very much like home to me, the pace of life here is different to HCMC, people are friendly and the golf course is great.

3. What courses do you provide to beginners or amateur golfers?

We offer eight different packages which cover all standards and all budgets, starting at an hour lesson for US $75, junior packages and all the way up to a 5-day intensive course for US $600.

4. Can you explain a little about the PGA certification?

There are two ways that someone can become a golf professional. First, you can gain a players card to play for a certain amount on the golf circuit –

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ActivitiesActivities LISTINGBlue Coral Diving CenterJoin the most experienced dive team in town to explore the wonders of Cham Island. Full day snorkeling and dive trips include all transportation, equipment, refreshments, instructors and BBQ beach lunch. Overnight camping trips can also be organized. They also have the cheapest rates in town. 77 Nguyen Thai Hoc St0510 627 9297sales@divehoian.comwww.divehoian.com

Cham Island Diving Center Cham Island offers extraordinary scenery and marine life. This esteemed group provides both diving certificates and beginner’s courses. Beyond diving, individuals can tour out to the island for snorkeling and relaxing on the beach. The same group is an affiliate of the Vietnam Sailing company. 88 Nguyen Thai Hoc, HoiAn.Tel: +84 (0)510 3910782 info@chamislanddiving.comwww.chamislanddiving.com

Danang Golf ClubDanang Golf Club comprises two courses of 36 holes, the first of which – The Dunes – is already complete. Designed by Greg Norman, the DGC has a stunning layout with backdrops of the East Sea and Marble Mountains. It also sports a number of facilities including a driving range and top of the range practice facility (such as swing studios with video analysis), café and clubhouse with private dining room, member’s terrace, restaurant and lounge.+84 (0) 511 3958 111   info@dananggolfclub.comwww.dananggolfclub.com.vn

Dao Tien Cooking Class By far one of the best cooking classes in town, this restaurant is owned and managed by Dao Thi Tien and her husband Chef Le Quoc Viet. Chef Viet’s classes are comprehensive and more intimate than the better known cooking classes in town. You will get one-on-one tips and learn classics such as Hoi An money bags and spring rolls. His easygoing style and attentive nature will mean you’re likely to try the dishes at home. 21 Phan Boi Chau St0510 362 2100 reservation@daotienhoian.netwww.daotienhoian.net

Hai Café Cooking ClassFrom the same famed owners of Red Bridge, the Hai Café offer an evening cooking class to Hoi An visitors. Learn local favourites in the cooler temperature of the evening, with a garden courtyard as a backdrop. Classes include eating the delicious creations afterwards.

98 Nguyen Thai Hoc0510 3862 210info@visithoian.comwww.visithoian.com

Heaven & EarthThis new bicycle tour takes visitors to a part of Hoi An that is never seen by tourists. Explore the true countryside and discover the charms of the rural village folk. Tour leader Pascal offers a truly unique experience in his half day morning and afternoon tours. 57 Ngo Quyen012 2952 7365www.vietnam-bicycle.com

Jack Tran’s Hoi An Eco TourA green-minded tour company offering localized experiences with the Hoi An people such as fisherman and farming tours as well as river cruises. It is a family business that has been set up for 5 years with the focus of preserving the environment and giving tourists a real insight into rural life. +84  510 3 928. 900 +84 914 082 850 http://hoianecotour.com.vn

Hoi An Motorbike AdventuresGo for a real adventure on a Russian Minsk with experienced tour guide Mark Wyndham. Be prepared to go off the beaten track and see some of Vietnam’s finest mountainous landscape. Or bike out to the Hill Tribe towns for a very ‘local’ insight into Vietnamese culture and people. +84 (0) 918 230 653 info@motorbiketours-hoian.comwww.motorbiketours-hoian.com

Hoi An Photo TourFind the best photographic opportunities Hoi An has to offer. Etienne Bossot will take you off the beaten track and upclose and personal with the locals. See the cultural, countryside of Hoi An. Both sunrise and sunset tours are available. Etienne will provide a photo workshop and help you get the right angles and settings for your shots. Bookings essential. +84 905 671 898www.hoianphototour.com

Montgomerie Links Golf CourseTee off on this Colin Montgomerie designed course, with beautiful sweeping views and mountainous surrounds. The challenging 18-hole course is complemented by a driving bay facility, clubhouse, café and pro shop. PGA lessons for beginner, kids and women are available. www.montgomerielinks.com

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Swing to Swim Charity Golf Event Montgomerie LinksThe Montgomerie Links and Indochina Land is hosting a Charity Golf Event on

Saturday 14th May 2011, in a bid to raise USD $20,000 for the Swim Vietnam Hoi An and Swim Safe Da Nang Swim-ming Programmes – both aimed at reducing the incidence of drowning in Vietnam. The event is endorsed by the Royal Life Saving Society Australia and World Drowning Prevention Conference.

In Vietnam today, more children are killed by water than road accidents. It is estimated that 11,000 children drown each year and so programmes that create awareness and swimming education are essential to saving lives.

Join in the “Swing to Swim” charity golf day to help raise awareness and funds for local swimming initiatives. The Swim Vietnam Hoi An and Swim Safe Da Nang programmes make a significant difference to the local communities. Without these programmes children wouldn’t be able to swim, particu-larly those in the poorest and most affected parts of the countryside where flooding is a huge issue.

FEE: All inclusive entry fee VND 3,700,000 (MLV members receive a 10% discount) Tournament Schedule:• 10.00am - arrival • 10.30am – Golf Clinic and exhibition with PGA Professional Lee Marshall • 11.00am – Light Lunch and Golf Tournament Briefing• 12.00pm – Shot gun Start – 18 holes• 2.00pm – Kids Clinic featuring Hoi An Swimming School• 5.00pm - Cocktail Reception, Awards and Auction ItemsGolf Competitions: • Teams Format (Best Ball) with prizes for: • Hole in One • Nearest the pin • Longest Drive • Beat the Pro • Par 3 “Circle of hope”

Please join us to raise money for this good cause on Saturday 14th May 2011.

For more information and reservation please contact us at:

Tel: 0510 3941 942 or Ms. Donna Tran – 0905 226 206

Email: reservations@montgomerielinks.com

Why not insert your ad in our magazine?> Advertisements start at just as little as $90

> The only magazine in Hoi An, distributed at key entrance points and businesses throughout town.

> Put your business on the map!

Contact our sales department sales@livehoianmagazine.com,

Amy 016 7345 7364 (English Speaking) orDuc 0905 914 114 (Vietnamese speaking)

ActivitiesActivities LISTINGMorning Glory Cooking SchoolThe signature of the Morning Glory restaurant is its ‘street food’ selection and their cooking class will give you a proper introduction into local favourites as well as national cuisines. The classes are designed for those who truly want to grasp the culinary tastes of Vietnam and be able to mimic them on their return home.

106 Nguyen Thai Hoc Street, Hoi An Tel +84 (510) 241 555 / 241 556 Fax +84 (510) 911 431 gourmet@hoianhospitality.commorningglorycookingschool@gmail.com

Red Bridge Cooking School & RestaurantRed Bridge is famous for its cooking tours, and operates a half-day morning tour and a deluxe day tour throughout the year, as well as an evening class at their sister restaurant Hai Café – go to www.visithoian.com. The Red Bridge Restaurant is romantically set on the Hoi An River outside the main part of town in a serene environment that is perfect for dining on your handmade meal. The restaurant is open daily for lunch and for dinner by request.Thon 4, Cam Thanh Village, Hoi AnTel: (0510) 3933222Email: info@visithoian.comwww.visithoian.com

Silk Painting (Papillon Noir)Talented local designer Uyen Trinh teaches

painting on silk from her Tran Hung Dao shop. Join her half day classes to learn the art and bring your own handpainted design home. 30 Tran Hung Dao+84 510 391 7941www.papillonnoir-fashion.com

The Last Great Taste of Hoi An TourJoin Aussie Neville Dean – a pure street food fanatic – for a half day tour of Hoi An’s best street food vendor offerings. See the vendors up close and in action and then head back for the sampling of 30 or so dishes at the Family restaurant on Nguyen Thai Hoc St. A great introduction to authentic local cuisine. +84 905 382 783 +84 121 7621 693 theteacher@tasteofhoian.comhttp://www.tasteofhoian.com/

Vietnam Sailing(Cham Island Diving Center)The Central Coast’s only sailing company, Vietnam Sailing does trips out to the Cham Islands and along the shoreline between Hoi An and Da Nang on their Trimarin boat, Oceane. Foreign skippers man the boat and participants can either learn to sail or simply sit back and enjoy the experience, cocktail in hand. 88, Nguyen Thai Hoc , Hoi An+84 918/255 521HoiAn@VietnamSailing.comwww.vietnamsailing.com

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DAO TIEN RESTAURANT & COOKING SCHOOL

“One of Hoi An’s finest dining experiences”Consistently voted in the top 10 of Hoi An restaurants on Trip Advisor, the Dao Tien restaurant will not disappoint even the most sophisticated of culinary experts. Delicious cuisine that is presented with a flair that is unique to Hoi An, Dao Tien is the combined effort of husband/wife team Ms Dao Thi Tien and Chef Le Quoc Viet.

The money bags here are famous throughout the country. But then again, everything on the menu is worth sampling. So is their cook-ing class. Learn the art of Vietnamese cuisine in a more intimate space than most cooking classes and from one of Hoi An’s most experienced chefs.

Ms Tien also founded the “Better Living” school for homeless children, provid-ing kids with an education and vocational skills. Dining at Dao Tien helps support the school.

21 Phan Boi Chau St. Tel: (0510) 362 2100reservation@daotienhoian.net - www.daotienhoian.net

The word “aroi” in Thai means delicious and certainly that’s the word that comes to mind after dining at one of Hoi An’s latest restaurant additions. As an ex-expat of Bangkok, I was very excited when the restaurant opened its doors early this year. As much as I enjoy local food, I still get intense cravings for certain Thai flavours that are not common in Vietnamese cuisine. And I love the spiciness of Thai food … it’s an addiction!

Aroy-D is owned and managed by Mr Nanthorn Limtrakarn, a Thai native, and his wife, who hails from Central Vietnam. The menu is not overly-comprehensive or ambitious but includes a decent range of Thai classics. Despite the challenges with produce avail-ability – certain ingredients, including rice

may not be consistently available – the dishes I sampled were all very satisfying

indeed. I was also indulged with a request, a pork meat salad that is served with sticky

rice (Larb Moo). This is a personal favourite of mine – I love the combined effect of lemon-grass, roasted rice, lime, chilli and mint with

pork – and soaking up the residue sauce with a clump of sticky rice. Delicious indeed.

Other mains that have been tried and tested include a Thai Green Curry (with beef ), Chicken and Cashew Nuts (I was impressed to be eating proper Thai-style cashews that had been carefully selected at the market), Tom Yum Goong, Deep fried Beef with a Chilli sauce (this dipping sauce is from North-east Thailand and was made perfectly) and Mango with Sticky Rice (real sticky rice, proper coconut sauce – this satiated a 3-month craving!).

Another incentive to spice up your palate at Aroy-D (and for those afraid of too much chilli, don’t worry, the dishes are prepared to a mild palate unless you’re a spiceaphile like me and say “Phet dai” or “Spicy can!”) is that the food is MSG-free. There is also plenty of choice for vegetarians.

Appetizers at Aroy-D range from 65,000-75,000 VND, while mains are 75,000 – 95,000 VND. If you want dishes with sticky rice, I’d recom-mend making a reservation in advance (at least 4 hours) to ensure they have prepared it. The restaurant is open 7 days a week, 10am to 10pm.

Aroy-D599 Hai Ba Trung. Tel: (0510) 391 9995aroyd.vn@gmail.com

Dining

Aroy-D

Thai DeliciousAmy Morison

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No, there is no dog on the menu! To answer a rather amusing sugges-tion I heard along the Hoi An grapevine. The name ‘Dingo’ instead refers to the Australian background of owners Gordon and Michelle who opened Hoi An’s first gourmet delicatessen earlier this year.

Arguably, Dingo Deli already offers the best sandwiches in town, with fresh-baked breads and items such as the honey ham (shaved in-house directly off the leg) and imported cheeses (camembert and gorgonzola that melt in the mouth) becoming legendary. Friendly couple Michelle and Gordon have melded the delicatessen concept with a café, offering modern, yet relaxed dining areas for guests as well as a gourmet retail shop. For families, the backyard play area is great, which includes an extensive wooden climbing construct and big trampoline.

Beyond sandwiches, the deli also offers a large selection of Western home favourites. From nachos, tacos, wedges, meat pies, quiches, burgers and pastas, there is something for everyone and the costs are reason-able (meals average between 60,000 – 100,000 VND). Cheese platters, wines and dessert such as cakes and tarts are also available. And let’s not forget the coffee. Dingo serves outstanding Lavazza coffee and the staff have been specially trained by Lavazza. They also use 100% fresh milk from Dalat which makes a huge difference to the taste – in fact, try their milkshakes too!

Open for breakfast from 7am (with a comprehensive menu that includes eggs bene-dict, full Aussie style breaky, pancakes, French toast and more) the Dingo Deli can also organize picnic baskets, platters or take away on request. They close at 7pm.

Dingo Deli229 Cua Dai Rd - 0906 552 824

going gourmet

Amy Morison

going gourmet

Dingo DeliDingo Deli

Dining

Samurai188 A/5 Tran Phu (turn right down alleyway before entering Japanese bridge) 012 2850 4627 tange1miyagawa@hotmail.com

Aptly located near Hoi An’s famous Japanese bridge, the Samurai restaurant is the first and only Japanese-specialized restaurant in Hoi An. Founder and manager Mr Genta opened the doors of his quaint establish-ment earlier this year, offering simple but ‘oishi’ (delicious) home-cooked meals from the land of the rising sun.

Mr Genta’s menu at Samurai is unpretentious; offering ‘soul’ foods and everyday Japanese fare. You won’t find complicated or expensive imported items here, but the dishes he does prepare, don’t fail to satisfy. The Japanese ‘soul’ foods include miso soup with rice (40,000 VND), cold soba or udon noodle with dressing (90,000 VND), onigiri (rice ball) and miso (60,000 VND).

Other mains and sets that feature on the menu are the popular Sushi set (includes 10 pieces such as shrimp cutlet, California roll, tuna/mayo and tamago for 135,000 VND), Tonkatsu (breaded pork cutlet served with rice or cooked with egg for 90,000 VND), Yakitori (skewered BBQ chicken for 60,000 VND), Tempura set (a mixture of shrimp and vegetables fried in tem-pura batter for 95,000 VND) and Hamburg set (the Japanese version of a hamburger patty, served with rice for 90,000 VND). Classic Japanese items like Edamame (steamed green beans with salt) and Doshimaki (rolled omelette) are also available for 40,000 VND.

You can find Samurai by walking to the Japanese bridge via Tran Phu St. Just before the bridge entrance, turn right and walk up the small laneway. Samurai is open every night except Wednesday from 5-10pm. Mr Genta also has a decent selection of Sake, Western wines and offers Asahi beer.

Hoi An’s first Japanese restaurant

SamuraiAmy Morison

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In our last issue street food aficionado Neville Dean gave Live Hoi An readers his perspective as a ‘squataholic’ – a person who enjoys street food as it should be - squatting and eating street-side.

Now Neville has taken his passion to another level, one that gives visitors an authentic local food tasting experience without the discom-fort of actually sitting in the street. Having identified and connected with Hoi An’s vast network of street food vendors, Neville recently started a tour called ‘The Last Great Taste of Hoi An’.

Basically, guests are taken on a walking adventure to some of Hoi An’s premier street hawkers. From the sweet lady who sells tofu in a ginger sauce, to the old man who has been proffering his sesame paste dessert for more than 70 years, Neville’s tour takes visitors to meet the anonymous faces of Hoi An street food – faces they may not otherwise notice without a

local guide.

After experiencing the walking part of the tour, guests are then invited back to a tasting class at the Ancient House of Gia Dinh in main town where a wide selection of these foods is presented to them. All foods are bought directly from the vendors – most of whom visitors saw or met on their tour. It is a wonderful introduction to the local foods of

Hoi An , many of which could be considered delicacies with recipes passed down from generation to generation.

“Many visitors are curious when they walk past a street food vendo but cannot communicate about what the food actually is. Also, they have reservations about how safe it is to eat. My objective with the tour is to give visitors a safe opportunity to try these foods – we ensure the food is handled hygienically and provide a comfortable venue to try it. The benefit also goes back to the vendors as we buy directly from them,” explained Neville.

Tours start at 8am and finish at 11am. The cost is US $30 per person and includes non-alcoholic beverages as well as all the food on the tasting menu. Bookings are essential.

108 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0905 382 783 (Neville Dean)

www.tasteofhoian.com theteacher@tasteofhoian.com

Taste of Hoi An Bookings @ Family Restaurant

The Last GreatTaste of Hoi An

Dining

“When the ribs arrive, I get out of the way. It’s like witnessing a pride of ravenous lions,” pronounced a friend during an Al Fresco’s delivery experience. Yes, the “home of the jumbo ribs” has finally reached Hoi An – and much to the delight of locals.

While famous for their delectable BBQ ribs, Al Fresco’s – as the Italian name suggests – offers a wide range of quality Western cuisine. The Al Fres-co’s group includes several restau-rants throughout Vietnam, although this is the first in Hoi An. Their very first restaurant opened more than 14 years ago and the Al Fresco’s name has been established as one of the best and most consistent group of Western food outlets that Vietnam has seen. Italian and BBQ mains comprise the core of the menu, however, seafood dishes also feature prominently. The dishes are presented in the flair of an Australian bar and grill.

The venue in Hoi An is a comfortable area with Al Fresco dining areas in both the front and back courtyards. Located on Tran Hung Dao it is very near to the old quarter and yet always accessible by car or motorbike.

Besides ribs, the pizzas, pastas, burgers, steaks and Mexican all come highly recommended. Al Fresco’s maintains the same high standards for food quality and service as in the larger metropolitan areas of Ha Noi and HCMC. So if you’re craving some decent comfort food that is guaranteed to meet the same standards of quality as back home, then this is the place.

During the day, Al Fresco’s also has an excellent value set lunch – it is a 3 course set with various choices including tea or coffee for 155,000 VND. They also have different specials for delivery and happy hour is every day from 4-7pm. The frozen margaritas are exceptional! Open for breakfast from

8:30am and all day until 11pm (last order for food is 10pm).

Al Fresco’s

83 Tran Hung Dao. Tel: (0510) 3929 707 www.alfrescosgroup.com

Al Fresco’s

Aussie hospitality hits the Hoi An spotAmy Morison

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Indulge In Style

White Marble Wine BarAmy Morison

Dining

The relationship between Mediterranean cui-sine and the ocean is always complementary. And the Colibri restaurant – ‘Colibri’ refers to a type of boat in Italian – at the Palm Garden resort illustrates just how extraordinary that relationship can be. Colibri’s oceanfront po-sition and tropical garden backdrop provide a peerless, romantic atmosphere while its innovative menu will impress even the most discerning of gourmet travellers.

While fine dining options are expected of a luxury resort, their menus – particularly in Italian restaurants – tend to be conservative despite the flamboyant prices. Fortunately for guests at Colibri, neither classification applies. The menu is anything but typical and the pricing is affordable – make that highly reasonable – for the quality.

The menu combines the Vietnamese approach to freshness (what is avail-able in the market) and the Western standard for quality and consistency. The menu is special, however, because of its refreshing grouping of ingredi-ents. Take the Special Colibri Pizza as an example. It includes green mussels (unique to the nearby Cham Islands), honey ham, pineapple, tomatoes, ap-ple and oregano. Or the Penne Opera – a pasta that marries locally smoked duck breast with asparagus, spring onions and tomatoes. Other highlights include the Summer Minestrone, a lighter version of the Italian classic that is more suited to the tropics; Don Stefano pizza (asparagus, fresh salmon and camembert); Herbed Lamb Rack and Australian Beef Tenderloin which is grilled to par excellence and is very popular among guests.

Appetizers at Colibri range from US $5-10, while Asian mains are between US $5-20, and Western mains between US $15-30. The Lamb is a reason-able US $25, while the Australian beef tenderloin is US $30. The resort often organizes summer buffets too which often incorporate a local theme. Their Hoi An seafood market buffet is a prime example of how guests can take advantage of the truly exquisite local produce available in Central Vietnam with local lobster, prawns, crab, clam and various fish available. Check with the front desk for the current F&B promotions.

ColibriPalm Garden Resort, Cua Dai beach. Tel: (0510) 3 927 927info@pgr.com.vn - www.palmgardenresort.com.vn

Breezy Colibri:

Fine ITALIAN on the Beach Amy Morison

Indulge In Style

White Marble Wine BarAmy Morison

The White Marble wine bar and restaurant opened its doors over 2 years ago with a simple objective: to offer a slick alternative to the rowdier backpacker venues common to Hoi An. And despite a significant overhaul to the food menu in more recent times, the bar has achieved its aim and become an icon of local sophistication.

“We wanted to create a wine specific bar, where you can sit in a relaxed environment and order a premium glass or bottle of wine, away from the usual revelry of the popular bars in old town. Our location is prime. We’re right on the intersection of Le Loi and Nguyen Thai Hoc streets, which is convenient for tourists and offers great street-watching opportunities,” explained one of the Australian owners’, Richard.

While wine is central to the experience – with over 50 varieties from around the world to choose from – White Marble has garnered a positive reputation among foodies too. The unique menu has an Asian focus with international reach and includes tapas, mains, cheese and tasting platters. The tasting platter of appetizers comes highly recommended; it is a medley of the restaurant’s best entrees (spring rolls, money bags, grilled beef in betel leaf, banana flower salad, sushi and fish cakes) and is great value for just 165,000 VND.

Other menu highlights include the flour-dusted calamari, wok-tossed chicken and cashew nuts, Vietnamese ‘cha ca’ (fish with dill), mango salad and tiger prawns and Ha Noi beef. Vegetarians can rejoice too with some refreshing choices including pumpkin laksa and tofu alternatives to a number of the starter and mains. Mains range from 60,000 to 150,000 VND. Classic Hoi An and Western baguette sandwiches are available as well as a cheese board (includes three European cheeses – soft, hard and blue) which comes in half (100,000 VND) or full size (170,000 VND).

With its classic Hoi An colonial veneer and location, White Marble makes for an excellent venue to imbibe and while away the time. The modish interiors and extensive menu (with 11 wines available just by glass) also makes for a comfortable experience that isn’t uncomfortably expensive. A tip from us: try one of the owners’ family wines – the French Island brand – the pinot noir is sublime!

White Marble98 Le Loi Street. Tel: (0510) 3911 862www.visithoian.com/whitemarble

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town and that if I decided to start my own restaurant business, I would have the support of him and Mother.

After my talk with Father I started looking for a venue that would be suitable for my own restaurant. I saw that the old police station garage on the main street of Tran Phu was being renovated and would soon be made available for rent. This was perfect! Its central position would guarantee passing trade as well as regular business from the market. When the building went to auction, there were numerous bidders and the price rose quickly. It dawned on me that I may never find a location like this again; I had to have this building! Suddenly, to my surprise – and everyone else’s – I put in a bid that would close the deal. As soon the words exited my mouth,

Mermaid: My First RestaurantBy the early 1990s the Vietnamese economy was changing and my

parents’ restaurant business began to suffer. My parents had grown weary with work. They no longer had the energy or saw a future in the business and so they made the decision to close the restaurant. This affected me profoundly. I asked Father what he thought I should do – should I stay in Hoi An? I was working as a tailor at the time but my real passion was in the restaurant business. Father was wise in his advice. He reflected on all the times we considered leaving Hoi An or had even attempted to escape and yet remained here. He believed there was a reason for this and that I should wait to see what direction the town would take under the new economy. He told me that I should follow my heart, that there was potential in the

The Morning Glory Cookbook: An Excerpt from Chapter 6

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My first instinct was to walk to my parent’s house. It was dark and so I was using a flashlight. When I arrived, Mother called out in concern. As I entered, I almost knocked her over in excitement. When I showed her the money she reacted in disbelief, asking whose money it was. Then she checked my accounts book to see which suppliers I owed money to and also came to the same realization. A smile crept over her face and I found myself beaming back at her. I had accomplished what I had set out to do. This money would be more than enough to pay for my brother’s and sisters’ schooling and would help both sides of my family with the bills. It was more money than I ever imagined I could make. I felt both a sense of relief and of pride – I had been right to trust my instincts and start the restaurant business.

Towards the very end of 1992, I experienced one of the most memo-rable moments of my working life. All my lunch guests had left and I was cleaning up the restaurant. At that time I only served breakfast and lunch. There was still some food left over on the display counter. I planned to take it away for the family. Then a foreign man stopped on his bicycle in front of the restaurant. He peered into the remnants of the display cabinet and then called over to a small group of friends. They were talking and gesticulating in English. Soon, they were trying to communicate with me, using sign lan-guage. I understood they wanted to make a reservation. I was completely tongued-tied – they looked so strange to me; I had never seen a Caucasian up close. I was very shy. They took out a notebook and wrote the number ‘4’ and ‘7’ – I understood; four people for 7pm. I managed to say “Thank you” in English, smiling, not really knowing how to react.

Normally I didn’t serve dinner at the restaurant, but I wasn’t going to miss this opportunity to cook for foreigners. I immediately ran to my parent’s home to ask for their help. I arrived breathless and hot-faced which concerned Father. “What’s wrong, what’s happened?”

“I need your help!” I yelped and started to explain but the words toppled over each other. I took a breath and started again. “We have four people booked for dinner.”

I panicked, thinking, “Oh my goodness, how am I going to pay the deposit? I have no money!” On the outside, however, I remained calm and told the auctioneer that I would return soon with the money.

Straight after the auction I went to see my parents. They asked if I had succeeded in getting the site; I replied quietly that I had. They knew something was wrong but I told them everything was fine, that I was sort-ing it out. At that time I was literally wringing my hands with worry – it was then that I also noticed the shiny new wedding ring on my finger. Its worth in gold would be enough for the deposit. I made the decision to pawn my wedding ring and get the deposit money so I could open the restaurant. My instincts told me this was the right choice to support my family.

After paying the initial rent, I had 5,000 VND (back then this was US $0.50c) leftover – this wasn’t enough to buy a day’s worth of food for a family, let alone an entire restaurant of people. But I wasn’t worried about getting supplies, I knew that I would be able to get food from the market vendors as they all knew and respected my parents. I focused on getting the restaurant ready for launch. On the opening day, I went to the market early and placed a food order with all the vendors, requesting that they allow me to pay them at the end of the day. Since I had worked in the marketplace all my life and they had supplied my parents for years, they accepted the arrangement in good faith. At 10am, Mother placed an offer-ing in front of the restaurant doors and we lit firecrackers for good luck. It was the April of 1992 and I had a restaurant. This was my dream; the one I believed would help resolve all my family’s struggles.

After the launch, business seemed to improve each day with a mixture of old and new customers. Suddenly it was the winter of 1992 – 6 months had gone by in a flash! I remember the end of this period vividly because I went to check my money belt to see what the situation was with the accounts. I was astonished to see I had made the equivalent of US $100 profit. This was a lot of money back then! I was sure I had made a mistake and counted again. It was correct.

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I didn’t want to lose my first Western customers and it looked like Father was struggling to talk with them. When they sat down, I felt more relaxed. But then I watched Father talking and smiling with them for a long time without returning to the kitchen. When he came to the back, I asked for their order. He had forgotten to take it. His reply was, “I was too excited to practice my English that I forgot!”

We had no menu, no idea how to serve them, or what to serve them. “You need to talk to them about food,” I said anxiously. Father tried. He tried with a mixture of English and French. He took a long time and didn’t make any progress because they didn’t speak French and his English didn’t en-compass cooking terminology. He could have named every part of an army radio, but he had no idea how to translate “fried” or “boiled.” So I decided to be more proactive. I put all the ingredients we had into a basket to show them. There were river shrimp, squid, a fish and lots of vegetables. They pointed to everything. Impossible! Just the fish would feed a whole family

“So what’s wrong with four people?” he asked. “You are used to serv-ing hundreds, so it’s hardly difficult for you. And why did you take a book-ing for the evening anyway when you’re tired after a full day’s work?”

“But Father, they are foreigners,” I said, thinking he would now under-stand why I was so flustered. But he dismissed this information too, saying “You know I don’t speak Russian.”

Father had been friends with some Americans during the war and could speak basic English, so I knew he could help communicate with the guests. At that time though, most of the Westerners that visited Vietnam were Russian as hardly any other nationalities were allowed into the coun-try. So naturally he assumed that’s where our guests were from. “I don’t think they’re Russian. They speak only in English and the man is very hairy.”

Father’s eyes lit up, now he was definitely curious. It had been many years since he’d had any contact with foreigners, so this was an exciting chance for him to use his English. “Don’t panic,” he said. “Mother and I will come and help you.”

We went back to the restaurant early in the evening to tidy it up more and discuss what to serve. Apart from Father and Mother, my siblings and I had no knowledge of what most foreigners looked like, having only been exposed to the occasional Russian film. We had no idea of their customs, appearance and – most importantly in this context – what kind of food

they liked. After discussing for a while, Father made a practical sugges-tion – he said to use the fresh ingredients we had and he would explain to the guests what dishes we could make. He found some cutlery he had kept from his time in the army; they were old and battered with the initials U.S. inscribed on them. The plan was that Mother and I would be in the background preparing food and cooking, while Father would be the host. Once they arrived, Mother and I stepped back while Father greeted them. He didn’t appear confident though – he hadn’t used English for 15 years. He was also a little nervous as it was very unusual to be seen talking with Westerners, he probably felt the eyes of all the neighbours on him.

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crispy white eggplantThis is a countryside dish that makes a typical vegetable look extravagant. The

delicate cutting technique and cooking method are unique and the eggplant has a

really meaty texture. It’s hard to believe it’s only a vegetable. This is one of my

personal favourites!

ingredients4 round white eggplants (see page 235)

½ cup vegetable oil2 tblsp white spring onions, sliced

1 tblsp shallots, pounded1 cup green spring onions, sliced

1 tblsp mild red chilli and garlic, pounded1 tsp fish sauce

2 tsp soya sauce¼ tsp sugar

2 ½ litres water3 tblsp sea salt1 lemon or lime

few drops of white vinegar

methodCut stems off eggplants then turn over. Slice

eggplants thinly two thirds of the way through. Turn

over, then turn clockwise 90 degrees and slice thinly

halfway down until the slices meet each other and

overlap by 1cm.

Soak in 1.5 litres of water with 2 tblsp salt and juice

of 1 lemon or lime. Place a heavy plate on top of the

eggplants to keep them under the water. Soak 1

hour.

Bring 1 litre of water to a rapid boil with 1 tblsp salt

and a few drops of vinegar.

Add eggplants. Boil for 8-10 minutes. Remove

eggplants and put in cold water immediately. Place

one eggplant on a small plate. Put another small

plate on top. Press firmly in the direction of the slices

to make a fan. Drain off all juices and pat dry. Repeat

with remaining eggplants.

Heat oil in a pan, shallow fry eggplants for 5 minutes

on each side until golden and crispy, pressing down

with a spatula to flatten. Drain well. Discard half

the oil from the pan. Add white spring onions and

shallots, cook 1 minute. Add green spring onions and

fish sauce, stir for a further 30 seconds then turn off

heat. Dissolve sugar in soya sauce in a small bowl.

Drizzle eggplants with soya sauce, spring onion

mixture and garnish with chilli and garlic mix.

Serves 4 as a side dish.

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questions such as “Why is he so hairy? Can I touch him?” “How do they sleep?” “Do they normally eat rice?” None of the locals intended to be rude, they were just so curious. Facial fea-tures were also a fas-cinating topic – the shape of the noses were quite different, we thought the shape of the women’s noses, which were more pointed and narrower, were beau-tiful. It was difficult to refrain from staring.

The night was a success for us; our guests had drunk a lot of beer, eaten a lot of food and enjoyed themselves. We felt satisfied too. They were kind people and paid more than was necessary, making it a financial success. But more importantly, it nourished our spirits and gave me energy – I wanted to do the same thing again. I felt proud to be a host. Their polite behaviour and obvious interest in our food culture was refreshing to me. Fortunately that night I had taken the opportunity to get them to write down the name of each dish they had eaten in English. The next day I wrote out these three dishes on an A4 size paper sign with a felt pen and put it up in front of the restaurant. This was probably the first English menu Hoi An had seen since 1975. Tourists soon started coming more regularly and we were the first restaurant in Hoi An to cater to both locals and Westerners.

To read more of Ms Vy’s memoirs, you can purchase the Taste Vietnam book from the Morning Glory restaurant at 106 Nguyen Thai Hoc St or visit www.restaurant-hoian.com

and there were four of them. I had to make sure they really wanted it all as I was concerned about losing money. Yes, they did, they gestured. They must have been very hungry, or very curious, I thought. Then I tried to find out how they wanted it cooked but they didn’t understand either Father or me. Tired from all his efforts, Father turned to me and said, “Whatever way you want to cook, just cook it!”

That is just what I did. I cooked everything as if I was preparing a special meal for my own family. I desperately wanted to impress them but could only cook the way I knew. The first dish I prepared was a starter of roasted river shrimp in a claypot and served with a dipping sauce of lime, salt and pepper. Mother and I then steamed the silver bream and served it with black bean sauce, ginger and coriander. The last dish was stir-fried squid with basil, pineapple and zucchini. All these were complemented by steamed rice. It was a roaring success.

The customers became animated over everything I brought out and took many photographs. Father and I eyed their camera with fascination. We loved the idea of being in photos and wanted our guests to include us in their snaps. They happily obliged. An interesting observation I made that night, and also over the years, is that visitors to Hoi An love to take pictures of landscapes, objects and even plates of food – photos without people in them. To most locals, a photo without a person is strange; we don’t see the point.

Our guests that night were also very interested in the cutlery Father had set out for them to use. They seemed very amused by it, pointing at the U.S. initials and laughing, but I did not understand why. They were more communicative and friendly after the meal, and we all felt more social. Father was much more relaxed and confident and even fetched his guitar to play.

It was getting late and we had to hint that they should leave by turn-ing off some of the lights; we did not want to attract unwanted attention. In fact many locals were in front of the restaurant, staring in awe at our customers. I had to shoo some away as they came in asking me all sorts of

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chicken with ginger sauceThis is another family recipe but there are various versions throughout Vietnam. I

prefer to use a free range chicken and keep the skin on to give it a more gelatinous

consistency. The effect of the ginger with the chicken is just heavenly. This is a

great winter dish.

ingredients500gr chicken breast, sliced thinly

1/3 cup vegetable oil1 tblsp shallots, pounded¼ cup ginger, sliced finely

2 tblsp fish sauce¾ tsp sea salt

1 tsp sugar½ tsp coarse black pepper

¼ tsp dried chilli flakes2 cups onion slices, 2cm wide

12 spring onion stalks, white part only1½ cups baby celery leaves with small stems

¼ tsp sesame oil

methodOn a wok burner heat a large wok. Add oil, onions,

spring onions, ginger and shallots.

Stir and cook 1 minute. Add chicken, fish sauce, salt,

sugar, pepper and chilli, stirring constantly for 3-4

minutes. Add celery leaves and sesame oil.

Serve with steamed rice.

Season to taste.

Serves 4 as a main.

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King Prawn with Pasta by Chef Nando2 fresh king prawns 150g pastaOlive oil (tbsp) Garlic – few cloveChili chopped (to taste) Italian parsley (chopped to taste)White wine ½ cup Fresh tomato x 3 (medium size)Salt / pepper to taste Tomato sauce (Heinz or similar) – 2 tbspParmesan (about 50g shaved)Remove shells from the prawn body and de-vein them, keeping both the head and tail on. Panfry the prawns in oil with garlic and chili. Cook for 3-4 minutes then add the parsley, wine and tomatoes. Cook the pasta al dente. Mix the cooked prawn with the pasta and tomato sauce.

Add salt and pepper to your taste, parsley for garnish and sprinkle with shaved parmesan.

One of the newer restaurants in the old quarter, the Green chili restaurant has already been enticing visitors and expats with its unique menu. Now, the restaurant boasts not only one, but two of Hoi An’s best chefs!

Chef Nando is a Vietnamese native who specializes in Italian and Vietnamese. He lived in Milan for 4 years so when we say “specialized” in Italian, we really mean it! Nando loves to work in an open kitchen and interact with the customers. His high quality cuisine is based on the freshest of local ingredients and experience. The King Prawn with Pasta dish is one of Nando’s personal recipes that he has shared with us for this issue’s feature recipe.

Chef Nando is also now complemented by American chef Scott Marquis who is poised to spice up the other Western and Tex Mex aspects of the

menu. Scott’s vast experience in cooking has taken him to several countries and restaurants. Expats in Hoi An are very familiar with Scott’s menus and are looking forward to tasting his new inventions and specials at Green chili. Expect Tex Mex-inspired meat mains, homemade flour and corn tortillas, smoked chicken (on the BBQ), fish tacos and fajitas to name but a few of the dishes Scott will introduce to the menu.

Green chiliFEATURE CHEFS & RECIPE

Dining

with Chef Scott Marquis cooking up Southwestern classics such as Fajitas, Nachos, Quesadillas and Tacos. Grilled items such as the steaks and ribs are also popular with guests. Meanwhile, Italian-trained Vietnamese Chef Nando maintains the Mediterranean and local menu, which are also sensational. Ask about their top shelf mescals and tequilas. 122 Nguyen Thai Hoc St0510 392 8199info@greenchilihoian.comwww.greenchilihoian.com$$

Good Morning VietnamFor Italian cuisine aficionados, Good Morning Vietnam is the perfect dining venue. Their positive reputation throughout Vietnam is widely known and the Hoi An branch is no exception, with Chef Alberto serving up fine Italian cuisine and ensuring high quality and friendly service. Their other branches, La Hostaria in HCM city and Good Morning Vietnam in Nha Trang, are also of the same standard of excellence serving only authentic Italian food.102 Nguyen Thai Hoc St0510 3910 227$$-$$$

Hai Café Bar & GrillThis charming 19th century classic Chinese building has been renovated into a spacious restaurant serving both Vietnamese and International dishes. Their lovely garden courtyard serves up a delicious nightly-barbecue, and their versions of local classics are renowned – namely White Rose and Com Ga.Hai Cafe also offers evening cooking classes as part of its Red Bridge Cooking School.98 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hoi AnTel: (0510) 3863 210Email: info@visithoian.comwww.visithoian.com$$

Hoi An GardenSet amongst a tropical garden this charming colonial restaurant offers fine Vietnamese dining at reasonable prices. While it is not far from old town Hoi An Garden transports you to a different era, where you are treated like royalty. Enjoy local specialties and grilled items, as well as the daily set lunch menu which is a very affordable $12. Throw coins in the lucky fountain in the main courtyard. 246 Nguyen Duy Hieu St0510 392 4779www.hoiangarden.commanager@hoiangarden.com

Hoi An Hai San This Hoi An restaurant has a long-deserved reputation for excellent seafood and top

value for money. Bookings may be necessary because this is often packed out, even during the low season. For unbeatably fresh ocean-inspired cuisine by the river, look no further than here. We highly recommend their seafood platter. 64 Bach Dang StTel: 0510 3861652$$-$$$l’Annam, Victoria ResortOverlooking the sea, l’Annam Restaurant offers casual all day dining, international or local Vietnamese and Asian cuisine with freshly caught seafood specialties. Check their specials which are always recommended – in fact the food is always par excellence here. Victoria also arrange special romantic dinners on the beach which are catered for by the head chef. Don’t forget breakfast either which is by far the best deal in town for outside guests at only $12 net. Cua Dai Road, Hoi An 0510 3927040http://www.victoriahotels-asia.com$$$

La PlageLocated on the far right of the restaurant strip at An Bang beach this sweet little open-air café does great French-Viet food, as well as burgers and classic sandwiches. They also have plenty of activities to keep you busy. Yoga, art classes and sports are available here as well as movie nights (Sundays and Thursdays). Far right, An Bang beach0510 3392 8244www.laplagehoian.com$$

Luong Gia This relatively new restaurant is owned by the same family that run the well-known Before & Now. Fantastic Vietnamese and Italian are their specialties and the ambiance is quite unique – both old relics and contemporary art feature in an inviting space. There is a romantic atmosphere which is appropriately matched with a large selection of wines. 34 Le Loi St0510 3 911 899luonggia@beforennow.com$$

Mango Mango The second restaurant of Duc and Ly of the famed Mango Rooms, this delightful restaurant has a great ambience as well as tantalizing menu. Duc’s imagination has gone wilder with more local dishes being meshed with Mediterranean and Latino tastes. Signature dishes include the red snapper and squid rings. 45 Nguyen Phuc ChuTel: 0510 3911 863www.themangomango.com$$$

LISTINGDining

Al Fresco’s If you’re craving a decent Western meal after oodles of noodles in ‘Nam, then Al Fresco’s is the most consistent and reputable place in town. From steaks, to pizzas, pastas and the famous BBQ ribs, Al Fresco’s have a menu to suit all tastes. Their Aussie-minded hospitality and across-the-board high standards ensure you won’t be disappointed. 83 Tran Hung Dao0510 3929 707 www.alfrescosgroup.com$$

Art RestThis art deco style restaurant is built into one of Hoi An’s ancient house structures. Local staples are beautifully presented and always taste fresh. Try the ‘Village Chicken” dishes or classics such as Spring rolls which are up there with the best Hoi An has to offer. 135 Tran Phu St0510 3911 925$$

Before & Now The ever-popular Before & Now bar and restaurant is a lively place that’s suitable for all ages. If you want quiet, there is an upstairs area for dining, otherwise soak up the music and mingle downstairs. They offer a menu of mostly international and Vietnamese dishes – the pizzas and pastas are consistently good. 51 Le Loi St0510 3910 599$$

Cham Island Dive Bar & Restaurant“A place where people come to meet people” is the catchphrase of this friendly bar and restaurant which is serviced by the same group who run the Cham Island Diving tours. Their menu is extensive, with great value BBQ sets as well as Mediterranean dishes. 88 Nguyen Thai Hoc StTel: 0918 25 55 21 chamislanddiving@gmail.com$$

CargoOne of Hoi An’s most established and consistent restaurants, this is Live Hoi An’s favourite place for breakfast, but the menu is suitable for all times of the day. Their Italian and local dishes are all first-rate and the patisserie ensures excellent desserts. This has both street and river views. 107-109 Nguyen Thai Hoc StTel: 0510 3910 489www.restaurant-hoian.com$$

Cava BrasserieThis tastefully decorated restaurant also features a proper wine cellar and cigar humidor. Owner Carl has been in the restaurant business in Hoi An for over 10 years. The menu features excellent grilled items and Mediterranean tapas. Cava caters to customers with sophisticated tastes but is also great value for the quality. There a very pleasant al fresco area for dining too. 53 Nguyen Phuc Chu St Tel: 0510 391 1646$$$

CitronellaOne of Hoi An’s better culinary venues. Superb food and atmosphere on the other side of the Japanese bridge from the old quarter – and an excellent outdoor river view. Recommended are the Five Spices Squid, Pan-fried Salted Shrimp, Hoi An Wonton and Hoi An Grilled Fish. For the reasonable cost this one of the town’s must-try restaurants. 5 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St 0510 2241 491$$

Dao TienThis top ranking Vietnamese restaurant is owned and managed by Dao Thi Tien and her husband Chef Le Quoc Viet. For reasonably-priced, superb Vietnamese dining Dao Tien is by far one of the best restaurants in town. Moreover, Chef Viet’s cooking classes are famous for good reason. Dao Tien is also socially-conscious –Ms Tien has a training school called “Better Living” that gives underprivileged kids culinary or service skills. A number of the Dao Tien employees have been trained in the school.21 Phan Boi Chau St0510 362 2100 reservation@daotienhoian.netwww.daotienhoian.net$$

Dingo DeliThis deli-run café and retail business is the only one of its kind in Hoi An. Buy imported cold cut meats (such as hams, salamis), cheeses and other gourmet delights here. They have a modern, indoor café and outdoors area with kids’ playground. Wifi, Lavazza coffee and a spare Mac for guest use are some of the other perks of dining here. The menu includes sandwiches, pastas, burgers, nachos, pies and more. 229 Cua Dai Rd0906 552 824http://dingodeli.com/$$

Green ChiliHoi An’s only Tex-Mex specializing restaurant

Our ratings - $ = below US $5, $$ = between $5-15, $$$ = above $15

106 107

Soul KitchenOn the beautiful An Bang beach, enjoy the gourmet delights of Chef Mien whose culinary talents are fast becoming famous as one of the best in town. They have daily specials depending on the market produce and also do French-bistro style foods, also depending on Chef Mien’s mood. Excellent value food, peerless ambiance (the view is spectacular and there are both dining tables or sofas to lounge on) and reasonable prices make this a must-try on your Hoi An trip. Far left, An Bang/Cam An beachhttp://www.soulkitchen.sitew.com

Streets International This modern café offers an excellent menu of local classics and Western sandwiches – their Paninis are the best in town. Also, all the staff are trained under the Streets International program for underprivileged youth, and their English and hospitality skills are second to none. Open for both lunch and dinner, the meals at Streets are delicious and – as the slogan says, it is – ‘Good Food Helping Good Kids’. 17 Le Loi 0510 3911 948streetsinternational.org$$

Tam Tam CaféA local and tourist favourite, Tam Tam Café draws a mixed crowd of visitors and expats. They’ve expanded from their original venue to include Tam Tam Garden but both venues are connected. The service, food and atmosphere in both places is par excellence. Try the desserts in Tam Tam Garden and the cocktails in Tam Tam Café. Also, Italian pasta dishes are highly recommended. 110 Nguyen Thai Hoc St(Alternate entrance at 121 Tran Phu). 0510 3862 212 $$

Terrace Café, Palm Garden Resort The beautiful open-air terrace café is offers diners an exception experience of traditional and international cuisine. The architecture embodies the soul of olden Vietnam, while the

view of the tropical garden and fresh breeze of the ocean make the experience all the more special. The breakfast buffet offers a wide selection of Asian and Western cuisine while there is aa specially designed international a la carte menu for dinner. Lac Long Quan Street, Cua Dai Beach 0510 3927 927www.palmgardenresort.com.vn $$$

Thi NhanThis long-established seafood restaurant provides excellent value for money. Fresh, quality seafood dishes (the tamarind crab is famous) feature at Ms Nhan’s 14 year old restaurant. Her seafood sets are highly recommended. 128 Cua Dai St 0510 3862 261 0978 322 336 $$-$$$

Waterfront This slick bar on the Bach Dang riverside in Da Nang is fast becoming the cities’ hottest wining and dining venue. Expect excellent cocktails, a comprehensive wine list and a well-executed bistro style menu. The design of the restaurant is exceptional, creating a contemporary, minimalistic style with Asiatic touches. Happy hours are every Friday from 6 to 8pm. 150 Bach Dang 0511 384 3373info@waterfrontdanang.comwww.waterfrontdanang.com$$$

White MarbleThe first fully-fledged wine bar in Hoi An, White Marble has a prime location on the corner of Nguyen Thai Hoc and Le Loi St. Their great wine selection is complemented by an eclectic tapas menu. This is a fantastic venue for people-watching and quaffing – we highly recommend you stop in to chill after a day of shopping and walking around town.98 Le Loi St, Hoi An +84 (0) 510 3911862 www.visithoian.com/whitemarble$$$

LISTINGDining

Mango RoomsMango Rooms is famous throughout Vietnam (and also internationally) for its exquisite cuisine. Caribbean and South American influences are seen in the interior, while the menu draws on local produce hinted with Latino flavours. Perfect for dining and chilling, founder chef Duc also makes for great conversation and entertainment. 111 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Hoi An Tel: (0510) 3910 839www.mangorooms.com$$$

MermaidThis local institution offers a comprehensive Vietnamese menu with local dishes punctuating the selection. A large garden area adds to the atmosphere and service is efficient and friendly. We’ve only heard good remarks about this established restaurant near to the main market. 2 Tran Phu St.Tel: 0510 3861 527$$

Miss LyThis famous café has been in business for many years and is an expat favourite. Her wontons are a must try as well as all other local specialties. The standard of food is excellent in this little restaurant and the prices very reasonable. 22 Nguyen Hue St0510 3 861 603lycafe22@yahoo.com0905 234 864$-$$

Morning Glory Cooking School & RestaurantThis restaurant is a must-visit venue for those wanting to experience the real street foods of Hoi An (without actually sitting on the street). Both traditional and newly inspired dishes are on the menu with healthy choices too. The vegetarian Cao Lau, Crispy Tofu peppermint salad, Chicken with Lime Leaves and Seaweed Fish Soup are but a few of our favourites. 106 Nguyen Thai Hoc StTel: 0510 324 1555$$

Red Bridge Restaurant & Cooking ClassThe cooking class at Red Bridge is more famous than for dining at the restaurant, however we see it is one of the most pleasant venues to eat in Hoi An. Being further down the river than the main throng of restaurants it offers tranquility as well as a fantastic menu. We recommend a late lunch followed by sparkling wine and a sunset boat ride back into the old town. Thon 4, Cam ThanhTel: 0510 3933 222www.visithoian.com$$$

River Lounge RestaurantThis well-located bar and loung offers a European café style atmosphere with an Asian menu. There is an actual lounge upstairs along with a manmade beach next to the main ground restaurant, giving guests a chance to experience all kinds of chill. Food highlights are the Asian Set Menu, a fusion of dishes designed by Austrian Michelin-star chef Michael Schwartzmann. 35 Nguyen Phuc Chu0510 3911 700$$

Sakura Restaurant & Cooking ClassThis restaurant is majestically located on the corner of Nguyen Thai Hoc and Bach Dang streets with a stunning terrace balcony overlooking the river. A long-established restaurant, Sakura’s name may be misleading as the menu is gourmet Vietnamese, not Japanese. Try their special Sakura Hoi An Set Menu which comprises seven dishes, three of which are shellfish (lobster, prawns, crab) for 259,000 VND or house specialties such as Pan-fried Shrimp with Scallion Ravioli, Duck Leg with Cheese and Green Pepper or the Lobster in Butter Garlic Sauce. Sakura is a great venue to drink in atmosphere of Hoi An, offering a well-executed, comprehensive menu. Their cooking classes are also highly regarded. 0510 3910 369 sakurahoian@vnn.vnwww.hoiansakura.com$$-$$$

Secret GardenNot unlike the name of the novel, this special restaurant is located within a private garden enclosure in a residential matrix in the heart of the old town. You will find the laneway that leads to the restaurant most easily from Le Loi St where the Com Ga stall is. Mouthwatering Vietnamese cuisine in a Spanish-influenced al fresco garden, unparalleled atmosphere and service make this restaurant a not-to-be-missed experience in Hoi An. We recommend trying their Mekong Delta rice wine too. Alley 60 Le Loi, Hoi An0510 221 2640www.secretgardenhoian.com$$$

Senses Restaurant, Life ResortThe Senses Restaurant menu captures the essence of Life Resort. It is a sophisticated blend of East and West influences, that maximizes on fresh local produce. The fine dining, open-air restaurant serves up cuisine that will excite even the most pampered of palates .Try exotic fusions from their executive chef while soaking up the serene and stunning view of Hoi An across the Thu Bon river.0510 3914 5551 Pham Hong Thai Stwww.life-resorts.com $$$-$$$$

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AccomodationLISTING

Cua Dai hotel Located on the road between the old town and the beach this resort is great value for money with a beautiful garden setting and modern amenities. Free wireless, pool and modern design make for a convenient stay. 544 Cua Dai St - 0510 3862231 cuadaihotel-hoian.com/ $$ Hoi An Riverside Resort & Spa All of Hoi An’s charm is captured by the boutique Hoi An Riverside Resort & Spa. Surrounding by lush rice fields, the resort blends architecturally with the natural surrounds. Exquisitely appointed rooms, five-star service, and an array of relaxing activities await. For a truly boutique experience this is the best in town, emphasiz¬ing the ‘experience’ of Hoi An in all its timeless elegance. Facilities include pool, beach club, spa, fine dining, badminton in a tropical landscaped garden. 175 Cua Dai Rd - 0510 3 864 800 info@hoianriverresort.com / www.hoianriverresort.com $$$-$$$$

Le Belhamy This new resort is only 10 minutes from old town and set amongst 10 hectares of lush gardens on a private stretch of beach. Activities abound for beach lovers, and the resort caters easily to both families and those on a romantic getaway. The facilities are fabulous including two large swimming pools, tennis courts and gourmet dining. Hamlet 1 Dien Duong Village - 0510 394 1888 info@belhamy.com / www.belhamy.com $$$-$$$$ Life Heritage Resort This classic resort evokes the colonial splendor of a bygone era. Located on a quiet stretch of the Thu Bon river, the 94 room resort is iconic -and for good reason. Recently renovated rooms, bespoke spa treatments and unmatched restaurant and bar facilities all create an unforgettable experience. The company also owns and operates the Life Wellness Resort in Quy Nhon. Inspired by the architecture of the Kingdom of Champa, the 63¬room hideaway boutique is dedicated to the tenets of wellness, from yoga to tai chi and to an ample range of spa treatments and anti-stress and detox programs. 1 Pham Hong Thai St - 0510 3914 555 www.life-resorts.com $$$$ Orchid Garden Homestay This pleasant homestay is set within a wonderfully landscaped garden featuring – as per the name – many orchids. An inviting pool, bungalow style rooms and welcoming atmosphere make this appealing to visitors. Guests can join in on family meals and learn about the local lifestyle from owner/manager Ms Phuong. 382 Cua Dai St - 0510 3863 720 www.hoian-homestay-orchidgarden.com $$ Nam Hai The boast of the Central Coast, this luxurious resort combines intricate designer detail with a peerless location, inimitable Vietnamese hospitality and premium facilities. Their award-winning spa in undeniably the best in the region with bespoke treatments from various parts of Asia. The pristine beach in front of the hotel is complemented by an infinity pool, lush tropical gardens and dining menus to please every palette. (0510) 3490 000 www.ghmhotel.com $$$$$

Palm Garden Resort & Spa Bliss out in this gorgeous resort ringing by palms and coconut trees on Hoi An’s Cua Dai beach. An enormous pool complex is in the centre of the garden, while guests have prime beach access, and plenty of facilities and activities at their disposal. The rooms are all well-appointed with first-class equipment and amenities. Other facilities such as the Palm Spa are must-experience features of this well-renowned resort. Lac Long Quan Street, Cua Dai Beach (84.510) 3.927.927 info@pgr.com.vn / www.palmgardenresort.com.vn $$$-$$$$ Phu Thinh II This charming hotel truly encapsulates the vibe of Hoi An and local hospitality. Smiles abound, the service is exceptional and the prices are very affordable. The hotel boasts a grandiose pool which gets sunlight throughout the year and there is also a stunning backyard view of the lotus lake. For a romantic sojourn in Hoi An, this hotel is a perfect choice and has a great location -close enough to the river for a breeze, only 2 km from the beach and within walking distance to old town. All the expected luxuries are available including WiFI and cable TV. 488 Cua Dai St. - 0510 3923 923 www.phuthinhhotels.com $$ The Villa @ Red Bridge Situated in the same grounds as the famous Red Bridge Cooking School and Restaurant, The Villa @ Red Bridge is designed with an Asian ambiance and consists of three master bedrooms, a living and dining area, fully-equipped kitchen, library and fitness room spread across two levels of 250m2. Guests benefit from all the facilities that Red Bridge has on offer: a private chef to cater all meals, swim¬ming pool, riverside (including boat trips), restaurant and barbecue areas. Other modern features such as WIFI, flat screen TV and DVD player are found within. Thon 4, Cam Thanh 0510 3933 222 / 0905 452 092 info@visithoian.com $$$$ Victoria Hoi An Beach Resort This local treasure offers understated luxury mixed with nostalgic architecture and a generous helping of warm Asian hospitality. Located on the beach but facing the river delta, this is a classic hotel that promises great facilities, service and a unique experience. Their dining facilities are peerless, even for those staying outside of the hotel we recommend the restaurant for breakfast or dinner. Also be sure to check out the hotel’s vintage motorbikes, sidecar and shuttle bus. Cua Dai Road, Hoi An (0510) 3927040 www.victoriahotels-asia.com $$$$ Vinh Hung Resort The tranquil Vinh Hung Resort provides for a luxury stay away from home. Located on the Thu Bon river near to the old town, the resort features and elegant pool, beautiful landscaped gardens, exceptional facilities, service and affordable prices. 143 Tran Phu St 0510 3910 393 or 3910577 www.vinhhungresort.com Between $$ and $$$

Ratings: $ = USD $10-20, $$ = 20-60, $$$ = $60-100, $$$$ = $100 and above

LISTINGEntertainment

Before & Now The ever-popular Before & Now bar and restaurant is a lively place that’s suitable for all ages. Alternative, Brit Pop and Indie music feature prominently in the mixed selections. Canvasses of art peer out of the walls – for example, a rendition of the Mona Lisa with a ‘peace’ bandana across her mouth and an AK-47 is one of the more noticeable pieces. Lounge spaces out the back make for an intimate, laid back scene. Free pool and foosal. Excellent drink promotions with daily happy hours from 6pm-12am. Often open until 1:30am with a shuttle bus to the Zeroseamile beach club. 51 Le Loi St0510 3910 599www.beforennow.com

Contino BarGet into the rhythm at Palm Garden Resort’s Contino Bar with live band Salvanota. The slick bar has ocean and beautiful garden views, creating a perfectly relaxing atmosphere. Join their happy hour for one for one drinks between 5 and 8pm. Outside guests are welcome. 0510 3927 927www.palmgardenresort.com.vn

Faifo BarThis recently renovated outdoor bar at Victoria Resort is a prime venue to unwind. With the sounds of jazz in the background, a soothing water fountain to your right and the Cua Dai ocean vista in front, this is perfection. Enjoy a refreshing drink here on one of the sofas in the shade of the palm leaf roof. There is a comprehensive beverage list and the ever-attentive staff will ensure you’re not in want of anything.0510 3927 040www.victoriahotels-asia.com

Heritage BarAs Life Heritage Resort’s signature drinking venue, this sophisticated lounge offers top shelf wines, single malts, cognacs and cigars as well as a creative cocktail list. Sip and sup in opulence in the colonial inspired, air-conditioned venue, and soak up the romance and history of Hoi An. For an inspired drinks setting that is unique to Hoi An and not unlike that of the Raffle’s Hotel’s Long Bar in Singapore, we recommend putting this into your itinerary. 1 Pham Hong Thai St0510 3914 555www.life-resorts.com

La PlageThis refreshing find on An Bang beach serves as a restaurant but also a venue for live music, movie nights, theme parties and plenty of water sports and equipment available. Ask friendly host Denis about the latest happenings, or get involved in one of their many community projects (from helping to clean garbage off the beaches, to arts classes and more). Last on far right, An Bang / Cam An beach0510 392 8244sammiller99@gmail.com www.laplagehoian.com Le Funk Da Nang’s funkiest little nightspot, specializing in shooters and great beats. Join founders

Antoine and David for an original cocktail. Fantastic service and drinks blend seamlessly with groovy interior design. Already fast becoming the expat favourite after-hours drinking hole, Le Funk is stylish but not pricey. Shots start at 15,000VND166 Bach Dang St, Da Nang0511 3843 291012 1554 335

Soul Bar (Soul Kichen)On the beautiful An Bang beach, enjoy wine or cocktails from the well-stocked Soul Bar. Ian (previously from Phatties) is the main man in charge of the bar which also features a pool table and is complemented by a lawn area with hammocks, sunbeds and the odd surfboard. Order food from the daily blackboard at Soul Kitchen, the Soul Bar is open from 10am to 10pm (latest). Far left, An Bang/Cam An beachhttp://www.soulkitchen.sitew.com

Tam Tam Upstairs in this art-deco designed restaurant/bar is a pool table, lounge area and dancing area. Tam Tam is always a-buzz with locals and visitors although more expats are coming here than perhaps other venues. The shooters are also unique, our favourite is the local ‘Em Oi’! which is made of Amaretto and Sambuca. 110 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hoi An(0510) 3 862 212

White Marble Wine Bar & RestaurantHoi An’s only wine bar is superbly located on the corner of Nguyen Thai Hoc and Le Loi Street. Their great wine list, including 11 by the glass, is complemented by an eclectic menu of Vietnamese and Asian favourites. This is a fantastic venue for people-watching and quaffing – we highly recommend you stop in to chill after a day of shopping and walking around town. 98 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hoi AnTel: (0510) 3911 862Email: whitemarble@visithoian.comwww.visithoian.com

Zeroseamile ClubHoi An’s only real nightclub, the Zeroseamile is open both day and night – ‘til the break of dawn! A DJ station, dancefloor, pool and foosal tables feature inside. Outside there is a lush pool, plenty of lawn facing the beach with deckchairs and a BBQ grill in the evening. Beach chairs and sun beds are also available on the sand. Enjoy the facilities in the day – sports equipment such as volleyballs and net, soccer balls and other water sports equipment are available – and then party on in the night. Free return shuttle bus service from old town to the beach club at night. Cua Dai beach0510 3 911 911www.zeroseamile.com

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Every person’s body has a unique style; its own artistic form. When you design clothes for someone, you have to look at their entire form, says Uyen Trinh and this is the approach she uses when customizing Papillon Noir fashion designs for clients.

“I focus on a person’s shape. If I were to follow just their measure-ments, then existing pattern cuts would not work. The best way is to customize the design to suit their particular body form,” Uyen explains.

Uyen is somewhat of a rara avis on the Hoi An scene. She is both artist and designer; renowned for her stunning hand-painted silk designs. The female range in her Papillon Noir collections are exquisite – chic couture combines seamlessly with nature-inspired art. Her deft ability to use colours that mimic nature’s creatures, such as butterflies and dragonflies as well as various flowers like the cherry blossom or orchids, is inspiring to say the least.

As a child, Uyen was a talented painter and as she grew older she be-gan to translate her art into clothing designs. She opened her first store in 1994 under the name Uyen Design. By 2000, she was recognized by Lonely Planet as a “funky designer” and in 2007 she launched Papillon Noir – Art-Fashion, inspired by nature.

Besides her intricate paintwork and other decorative designs (native fibres such as coconut and wood sometimes feature in her work) Uyen also makes stylish menswear. Her striped shirts remind one of Thomas Pink, while her series of velvet jackets are an op-ulent reminder of La Decadence yet suited to the modern age. Other fibres such as linens are also popular choices with Uyen; especially when she is designing clothes for tropical wear. She is a fashion virtuoso; a refreshing and daring designer, who also understands the more practical aspects of tailoring to a person’s needs.

For truly inspired themes, high quality and perfect form-fit clothes, we recom-mend visiting her stores on Tran Hung Dao and Tran Phu. For those interested in taking a silk painting workshop, you are welcome to join her at her Tran Hung Dao workshop.

Papillon Noir - 0510 3917 941 Retail outlets: 30 Tran Hung Dao St 76 Tran Phu St www.papillonnoirfashion.com papillonnoirfashion@gmail.com

Shopping

Papillon NoirIn Perfect Form:

Amy Morison

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Luminous Hoi An:

Lantern-makingAmy Morison

In my view, the lantern is as much a symbol of Hoi An as the Japanese bridge. These colourful, silken lamps of old give the town an enchanting feel. At night – with the colonial buildings of Hoi An as a backdrop, it literally feels like you are stepping back into a magical past; a resplendent Oriental fairytale.

“Lanterns are originally Chinese, made from wood and wax paper. My grandparents came to Hoi An from Quang Dong province. In those days, Chi-nese families would paint their family name on the lanterns and hang them at the front entrance of their home,” explains Mr Duong Vinh Thoai, proprietor of the Long Vy lantern shop – Hoi An’s most established lantern store.

Mr Thoai’s shop on Phan Chu Trinh was originally the home of his grand-parents’. At the back of the store you will see a pair of antiquated Chinese lanterns dangling in front of the family ancestral shrine; they are more than 100 years old.

Before the American War Mr Thoai’s father, Mr Duong Mai, was Hoi An’s lantern-making specialist. Many of the Hoi An families with Chinese heritage would request lanterns from his shop which was then called Tan Long. While the custom of making lanterns was temporarily lost during the war and the

rationing period that followed, the town experienced a revival in the 1990s and especially when it became listed as a UNESCO-heritage town.

Every month for the full moon, Hoi An celebrates its lantern festival. Shop-owners and residents in the old town use lanterns for light – fluorescent light is not allowed. Along two of the main streets in the old quarter – Tran Phu and Le Loi – lanterns are hung by the government for local and national festivals. Long Vy lanterns is com-missioned to make these.

In Hoi An, the traditional lantern-mak-ing method is with a bamboo frame and silk covering. Mr Thoai says the best test on the quality of a lantern is to open and close the umbrella-like frame to see if it is sym-metrical. At Long Vy they treat the bamboo carefully to prevent insect damage.

Incidentally, tourists can learn the art of lantern-making at the Long Vy workshop. Why not take a traditional self-made souvenir home!

Long Vy Lanterns & Workshop: 6 Phan Chau Trinh St0510 360 6611 / 0908 664 731longdenlongvy@gmail.com - www.hoianlantern.com.vn

Shopping

Tran Thi Hoa has always had taste. Her history in tailoring is a family business, but unlike many of the numerous tailor shops that exist in Hoi An, she started out before Hoi An became a tourist destina-tion. She made clothes for locals, operating from the main market. However, she always dreamed of designing for foreigners, making beautiful clothes that would be worn in other parts of the world.

Fast forward 16 years and Mrs Hoa has achieved her dream, but in a quiet, unassuming way. Her quaint shop Rin My on Phan Boi Chau street is away from the bustle of the market so she doesn’t get the walk-in traffic of tailors in the busier parts of old town. She does, however, attract a more discerning clientele, being in close proximity to the iconic Life Resort and Brother’s Café. And it is with these customers that Mrs Hoa excels.

“I am very attentive to my customers. I want them to feel comfortable and to be happy. It is very important that they feel happy when they both enter and leave the shop,” she explains. “I have many customers that return, year after year, and this makes me feel good about my work. It is not about volume, but about quality. This is what separates a good tailor from an average tailor.”

Mrs Hoa has been working with clothing suppliers since 1995 and works with a handpicked number of specialized sewers and cutters. She doesn’t cut corners on quality and charges a fair price.

“Many shops buy sub-standard materials and push their tailors to rush, so the job is not done properly. Tailored clothes should be double-stitched. If a shop is offering a cheap price that seems too good to be true, it probably is – the clothes will probably fall apart after a short time,” Mrs Hoa advises.

Rin My 15 Phan Boi Chau St0510 3863 2800905 101 068rinmy_07@yahoo.comwww.rinmytailors.com

Amy Morison

Tailoring with Taste:

Rin My

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Quynh wears many hats at Yaly. As chief designer, she contiunes to express her talent for art and fashion through Yaly’s ready-made collection. As the head of the business, she has a quality focussed organization with people at the centre. For Quynh, staff at Yaly are seen as an extended fam-ily . Her fair treatment and quality-focussed work ethic has inspired great loyalty among the staff with most employees having worked with her for at least 5 years. Her original tailoring staff still work with her today; both are in high managerial positions.

Besides investing in her own people, Yaly has invested in modern equipment to ensure customers get the best of both worlds – world-class quality with personalized style. As the world grows more crowded with mass produced clothes Quynh is confident Yaly will remain a favourite stop for customers interested in unique, personalized fashion without compro-mising on quality.

Yaly 47 Nguyen Thai Hoc St47 Tran Phu St, Hoi An358 Nguyen Duy Hieu St(0510) 3910474 / 386 1119 / 3914 995www.yalycouture.comquynh@yalycouture.com

Shopping

Fashioning the market:

Yaly Sam Miller

It started with a simple stall in the Hoi An market. Trinh Diem Quynh and two tailoring staff. They made handknitted jackets and ao dai tunics for Vietnamese customers. Today, Quynh is head of Yaly –Hoi An’s most estab-lished tailor brand.

Like many young people in Hoi An, Quynh grew up working in her family’s busi-ness near the central market. At an early age Quynh learned to appreciate colours and art through her father and his family, who were painters. She also developed a liking for travel and education; her father encouraged her to keep and open mind and to learn new things.

Bringing her love of fashion and business together she started a small market business in the early 1990s. At this time Hoi An had begun to cause a stir among travellers and more people began visiting the heritage town. Notic-ing this trend, Quynh began fashioning designs that would be appealing to tourist’s tastes and preferences.

As business in the market picked up with foreign customers, she decided to open her first shop on Nguyen Thai Hoc St and launched the brand ‘Yaly’. The Yaly name comes from a Viet-namese ethnic minority group and means waterfall and beautiful girl. Meanwhile, the Yaly logo hints at a girl’s ao dai blowing in the wind.

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Papaya also donate 1% profit from their total earnings to the charity “Pouissieres de Vietnam” which helps street children in HCMC. They support a local organization “La Goutte d’o”, too which aids underprivileged families in the Hoi An area. In fact, it was Thierry’s idea to incorporate the use of special recycled bags to give to Papaya customers. Poverty-stricken families in Hoi An collect newspapers and make them into carry bags – usually with a prominent advert in Vietnamese which give the bags a uniquely local look. Papaya buys these bags and gives them to customers rather than using plastic bags. This not only gives back to the community but gives customers an additional souvenir.

“We’ve had a lot of positive feedback about these recycled bags. Our customers really like them. Actually we had a couple in Paris who liked them so much they wanted to bulk buy to use in their retail shop in France. They bought 700 bags, which really improved the income of the family who made them,” explained David. “But while we are involved in purchasing the bags and supporting the product, we have given the responsibility of marketing and financial organization to ‘La goutte d’o’. This will ensure that families who really need the income are making the bags and earning the profit.”

To see more Papaya designs go to their website www.papaya-tshirt.com or drop into one of their Hoi An locations (37 & 134 Nguyen Thai Hoc St).

Shopping

The original designs of Papaya T-shirts have become almost ubiquitous in Vietnam. The iPho shirt – a cute Vietnamese spin on iPhone – is iconic, as is Bia Hoi (think global, drink local) and Saigon Online (a chaotic image of wires on a Vietnamese telegraph pole). While their designs are often copied, they are never surpassed in quality. You can tell an original papaya t-shirt by its distinctive label –as they say, “not same same, really better”.

This small but growing company opened its first store in Hoi An almost 2 years ago and now has two locations in town and a total of five in the country. Their 100% cotton t-shirts all have original designs which are often cheeky and always unique to Vietnam. Importantly, when you buy from Papaya, you also help give back to the community.

Founders David Griffon and Thierry Palasse practice the principles of fair trade – so all Papaya employees earn a living wage, not a minimum wage, meaning all staff earn enough to provide properly for their families whilst keeping regular, reasonable working hours.

Papaya t-shirts:

Designed to give back Amy Morison

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Both women have developed long-lasting and harmonious relationships with their tailors and other local crafts people. They commission work from about 14 people outside of their shop. The sense of the local community ranks high in both Aldegonde and Anna’s decision to live and work in Hoi An and Hoi An only.

“We work with talented locals; a doctor who hand knits complicated pullovers for us in her free time , a man – after a year training – who makes some of our leather handbags. And we have a number of freelance sewers. While we give them a design concept, we also give them creative room, so there is a constant exchange of ideas. It’s a very nice process,” Aldegonde explains.

While avAna don’t do ‘collections’ per se, they do have themes. The cur-rent feel for summer has been vaguely inspired by Marc Jacobs, Helmut Lang, Vivienne Westwood and Haider Acker-man. But the common thread in their new designs is the avAna pants – which come in the style of Aladdin, Zouave or Afghani trousers. The pants are designed for the heat, with stretchy, soft fabric. Their cut is distinguished by a wide waist and loop of material that gathers around the knees and ends in the ankles. This style reinforces an Asiatic aesthetic; light-weight and natural, and using soft sum-mery colour tones such as lilac-violet and brown-hued pink. Anna and Aldegonde suggest wearing them with Oriental sandals, a short top or small jacket.

Accessories such as handbags with tassels and silk scarves further enhance the look. “Think Arabian tales, light silk fabric with dazzling graph-ics, warm nights and tropical plants – all of these images in a tangle of imitations and stylistic borrowings. This is summer avAna,” says Aldegonde.

avAna - 57 Le Loi St0510 3 911 611 info@hoiandesign.com www.hoiandesign.com

Amy Morison

Between the seams is a sense of magic. A sense of the Orient lyrical. But most importantly, all of the outfits designed by duo Aldegonde Van Alsenoy and Anna Van Ravesteyn feel beautiful. For their world, is a material one.

“Choosing the right material for all our clothes is most important. The pieces have to feel comfortable. They have to be high in quality. The mate-rial is what we base our silhouettes on,” explains Aldegonde.

More than a year ago, the two women started their clothing brand avAna in Hoi An – avAna being a catchy anagram of their initials – today, the brand has become a recognized and recommended source of wearable art, unique to the heritage town. Their designs are original and chic, always with an emphasis on comfort, particularly for tropical climates.

For both Anna and Aldegonde, environment is key. Both have back-grounds in fashion and design. Aldegonde founded the ‘Betet Skara’ brand in Antwerp, which turned traditional hand-woven clothes into fashionwear. Anna worked for Vogue in Australia for 10 years. Both women, however, feel most centred in Hoi An. And it’s not just because their husbands are here too!

“Hoi An has a good energy. There is a quiet sense of the creative all around; you feel naturally inspired. There are also that nice contrast of the traditional and the new. It is a town that is evolving, with many artistic personalities. For Aldegonde and I, this is the core of our creative work. Everyday we feel blessed to live and work in Hoi An,” says Anna.

MATERIAL GIRLS:

DesigningavAna

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but customize everything to the client’s request. 275 Nguyen Duy Hieu St 0510 3914 373

Shoe Shop 09Expect great quality custom-made shoes from this long-time family shoemaking business. They have readymade designs or can tailor to your own specific designs. All 100% leather, quality made soles. Ms Tuong and her team actually specialize in leather products too, so besides shoes you can find a fantastic range of handbags, purses and stylish leather jackets. 65 Tran Hung Dao St0510 386 3573tuong2002@hotmail.com

Tong Art ShoesFind exceptional shoes at Anna Moi’s shoe gallery in Hoi An. Pure leather, comfortable yet chic shoes feature in this trendy new addition to Hoi An. Anna’s signature ‘thong boot’ is a must-try item, combining a flip flop and knee boot together. She has plenty of artful designs to get soleful about, but there are also shoes for men. All soles are handcrafted with the best materials and Anna only uses 100% leather – guaranteed.

26 Phan Boi Chau St0510 391 5202tonghoian@gmail.com

TailorsDung TailorDung Tailor was one of the first tailors in Hoi An, having opened this family store in 1994 to serve foreign tourists. Unlike other outlets, all the tailoring is done within the shop. Locally-based, foreign-owned boutiques also request Mr Dung and family to tailor their designs, so customers can be reassured of this family business’ good reputation. Their friendliness and honesty provide more reason to choose this tailor over the myriad of other outlets in Hoi An. 23 Le Loi St0510 386 38650905 945 956duyen_dung38@yahoo.com

Rin My This family business of 16 years is run by the wonderfully friendly Mrs Hoa. Her exceptional taste and commitment to high quality will ensure a good experience. Almost all Mrs Hoa�s customers return! Located on the quaint Phan Boi Chau street between Life Resort and Brothers Café this charming tailor shop is well-worth a visit. 15 Phan Boi Chau St0510 3863 2800905 101 068rinmy_07@yahoo.comwww.rinmytailors.com

Sun Cloth ShopThis highly esteemed, family-run business near the Life Resort has a well-deserved reputation for high quality service and products. Their customers are almost always international, with many returning year after year for repeat orders. The Sun name is synonymous with quality and fair pricing. It is one of Live Hoi An’s choice tailors. 273 Nguyen Duy Hieu0510 386 14490983 520 560sunsilkhoian@gmail.comwww.sunsilkhoian.com

Yaly CoutureYaly Couture is renowned for making highly exquisite, fashionable clothes, made to measure. One of the few tailors who have exhibited their craftsmanship on the catwalk, you can be guaranteed luxurious and quality products from this company. Yaly are famous in Vietnam and with good reason – high quality materials, craftsmanship and service are exceptional.47 Nguyen Thai Hoc St47 Tran Phu St, Hoi An358 Nguyen Duy Hieu St(0510) 3910474 / 386 1119 / 3914 995www.yalycouture.comquynh@yalycouture.com

LISTINGShopping

SONG All original designs are by Valerie Gregori Mackenzie, a famous French designer who resides in Vietnam and set up the SONG brand in 1996. Expect exquisite designs on beautiful fabrics. Made from organic materials and embroidered by local artisans, all SONG products are environmentally sustainable. They have also featured in high end boutiques all over the world, including Sak’s. 76 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, info@asiasongdesign.comwww.asiasongdesign.com

Arts & CraftsLong Vy Lanterns & WorkshopHoi An’s most established lantern-makers, Long Vy cater for both personal and corporate shoppers. Many of the resorts of the central coast buy their lanterns from Long Vy, as well as customers abroad. They have custom-made lantern designs for operas, Asian-inspired events and more. All lanterns are made to the highest quality and can easily be shipped abroad. Personal shoppers interesting in learning the art of lantern-making can also take one of their workshops. 6 Phan Chau Trinh St0510 360 66110908 664 731longdenlongvy@gmail.com www.hoianlantern.com.vn

Reaching Out Fair Trade Store & WorkshopBeautiful handcrafted gifts abound at this Fair Trade outlet in Hoi An. Lacquer ware, bedding, jewellery, table runners, ceramics, bags and clothes are some of the various and unique items on sale here. The artisans have different abilities and are all paid a fair wage with proper benefits. All items are handmade – mostly in the workshop on site – and have fixed prices. You are welcome to check out the workshop at the back; all the artists are happy to show you how they craft their work. 103 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0510 3910 168info@reachingoutvietnam.comwww.reachingoutvietnam.com

Fashion AvanaA unique boutique which sells original accessories, clothes, shoes, interior wares and children’s wear by expat duo Anna and Ava. Importantly, the pair draw on local materials for their inspiration and work with Hoi An craftspeople to make their designs. Their motto: passion, people, quality. If you want to support local artisans and see some inspiring tropical chic designs, be sure to check out their shop.

57 Le Loi Stinfo@hoian-design.comwww.hoian-design.co

Hot ChiliHot chili haven’t yet opened their own retail outlet but if you’re staying in one of Hoi An’s luxury resorts, you’ll be familiar with the brand. Groovy designs on comfortable, high quality cotton fabrics are the cornerstone of this unique brand set up by Australian couple John and Jenny. Check out other designs or custom-make your own casual wear through their screen printing company Sao Viet.http://www.vietnamtshirtprinter.com

Papaya T-ShirtsFunky t-shirt designs on 100% cotton! The original and best t-shirts in Vietnam. Buy from here and profits help street children in HCMC and underprivileged families in Hoi An. The shirts are high in quality and make for great gifts. 37 & 134 Nguyen Thai Hoc Stwww.papaya-tshirt.com

Papillon Noir Exquisite collections by artist Uyen Trinh, who specializes in silk painting. The closest Hoi An has seen of haute couture, Uyen’s unique designs are making waves across the region. Her passion for silk painting has led her on a personal journey to learn more about the art and also to teach and inspire others. She holds weekly classes at her boutique – call the shop if you’re interested. 30 Tran Hung Dao St76 Tran Phu St

Jewellery Lotus Jewellery Beautiful handmade jewellery of silver and various local materials including beautiful stones sourced from abroad. Every design in this shop is original and there are some excellent locally-inspired pieces which make for great keepsakes to take home. Only pure silver and high quality items are sold here and prices are reasonable and fixed. 82 Tran Phu St100 Nguyen Thai Hoc StPh: +84 (0) 510 3911 664http://www.lotusjewellery-hoian.com/

ShoesFirst Shoe ShopOne of Hoi An’s original shoemakers, the First Shoe Shop have one of the best reputations in town. Good quality leather and European shoemaking techniques are employed. They have a decent range of readymade footwear

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Email: palmarosaspa@yahoo.com - Website: www.palmarosaspa.com

Healthier … by natureHoi An’s essential day spa experience

• Exclusively use of spa products by Azial and Rendez-vous – 100% natural and organic ingredients

• Services include massage, body scrubs and wraps, manicures, pedicures, waxing and facials

• All therapists are trained and certified

• Private showering and changing facilities with robes, towels, slippers and lockers provided

• Complimentary mineral water, tea, steam and sauna facilities

• O.P.I international nail products used for manicures and pedi-cures

• International day spa standard facility with 75 minute massage treatments averaging $20

Palmarosa Spa: 90 Ba Trieu Street - Tel: 0510 3 933 999

The next most important aspect of the Palmarosa experience is the professionalism of the staff and their quality products. All beauty and massage therapists are trained and have technician licenses. According to spa founder and director, Ms Quyen, the masseurs must complete an intensive 4 month training course before starting at Palmarosa, regardless of previous experience. This ensures that the standard among therapists is the same and that their products are used effectively.

Palmarosa uses the esteemed Azial and Rendez-vous product range – 100% natural products that combine Asian natural resources with European manufacturing knowledge. Founded by French specialists, the company operates from Vietnam and provides products and training to several day spas and resorts in both Vietnam and abroad. Palmarosa exclusively uses Azial for their spa treatments; namely the moisturizing body oils for massage and their scrubs and lotions. The botantic-based ingredients are all 100% organic (ie, chemical-free) and employ locally-sourced components such as lime, mint, orange, pomelo, cinnamon, lemongrass, sandalwood, ginger and the lesser-known but nonetheless essential Palmarosa oil – otherwise called East Indian geranium.

So how much does it cost for a Palmarosa experience? Their standard massage treatments (such as Asian blend, Traditional European and Swedish) are 75 minutes and cost $18, while specialty massage treatments including the Thai Herbal Hot Poultice (the masseur uses a steamed herbal ball) and Basalt Hot Stone Massage (hot stones are placed on pressure points) are $21 and $25 respectively. Body scrubs and wraps range from $15 to $18 and facials start at $9 for a 30 minute green tea or raspberry yoghurt mud mask. For those wanting a manicure or pedicure, treatments start at $5 and use international nail polish brand O.P.I. As mentioned earlier, customers can use the additional spa facilities (steam room and sauna) complimentary.

Palmarosa is open daily from 10am to 10pm – bookings are recommended.

Palmarosa Spa: 90 Ba Trieu St - 0510 3 933 999

palmarosaspa@yahoo.com - www.palmarosaspa.com

LISTINGHealth and Wellness

The term ‘spa’ has been used far too generally in Hoi An. Any place with a few mirrors, a basic manicure kit and a room out the back with a mattress for massage has been calling themselves a ‘spa’. By my definition, however, a spa facility should – at minimum – include a comfortable changing and shower area, clean robes and slippers and private treatment rooms with professional massage tables and spa-specialty products. Finally, my wish for an independent spa facility that meets my criteria was granted when Palmarosa opened.

Saunter into the foyer of Palmarosa and a sense of zen descends upon you. The fragrance of lemongrass permeates the air. Relaxing background music and modern, comfortable furnishings reinforce a mood of relaxation. Not dissimilar to that of a high-end resort spa lobby, you feel immediately at ease.

What’s impressive is that the facilities and treatments at Palmarosa are nowhere near resort prices – they are similar to other small spas in Hoi An, yet their professionalism exceeds all other independent venues. Firstly, the atmosphere and facilities have been designed to an international day spa standard. Male and female changing rooms not only include showers but have a steam room and sauna. Each guest – regardless of their treatment – will receive a locker space with key, towel, robe and slippers. They can use the additional facilities of the steam room and sauna at their leisure. They are also given complimentary mineral water, ginger tea and a foot soak before commencing a treatment.

Spa Out! The essential Palmarosa experienceAmy Morison

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LISTINGHealth and Wellness

Medical

Family Medical Practice Da NangFor anything serious or if you want a general check-up in an international standard clinic, this is the most renowned medical facility in the Central Coast region. The clinic is managed by Dr Ross Bernays, a native Australian GP with many years experience in Vietnam. Family Medical Practice offers 24 hour emergency care as well as emergency evacuation. They are also are aligned with numerous international health insurance providers and provide direct billing to customers.50-52 Nguyen Van Linh St, Da NangTel: (0511) 3582-699/700 Emergency: 09 13 917 303www.vietnammedicalpractice.com

Pacific HospitalA private facility with 24 hour emergency care and international equipment. They do provide direct billing with certain health providers, have English-speaking doctors and can arrange hotel visits and pick-ups. However, we recommend Family Medical for major emergencies such as trauma. 06 Phan Dinh Phung StTel: 0510 921 398

Spa

Aly Spa & Beauty SalonNicely fitted spa in a good location. Excellent treatments at a reasonable cost. Highly recommended are the body massage, including the aromatherapy healing popular ‘Imperial Jade’ treatment which includes hot stone therapy. Moreover, the ‘Together Forever’ package is a refreshing treatment that has a reviving effect on the skin. It involves a pomelo and lemongrass bath and steam, massage with local herbs and a collagen facial treatment. 49 Ba Trieu St, Hoi An(0510) 3 917 972alyspahoian@yahoo.com

Countryside Charm MassageA favourite with locals and expats, Ms Vinh is an experienced masseur, with over 6 years experience at the Victoria Hotel’s Tamarind Spa as a senior spa therapist. She has a comprehensive spa menu with hot stone therapies, body scrubs and various massage techniques available. Her reasonable costs, charming smile and friendly nature make this spa all the more appealing. Discounts apply to any guest that mentions the magazine. Professional hourly body massages start at $12. 512 Cua Dai St0510 3501 5840979 497 454duyenquehoian@gmail.com Life SpaLife Resort’s well-deserved reputation as a health and wellness sanctuary could not be better encapsulated than in their Hoi An spa. All staff are trained in Thailand and understand numerous techniques. Their signature ‘Harmony of Energy Massage’ uses seven kinds of massage techniques. Massages are world class and start at $43.

1 Pham Hong Thai 0510 3914 555www.life-resorts.com Palmarosa SpaHoi An’s first legitimate day spa. Palmarosa offers professional, modern facilities and services at very reasonable prices. They use the esteemed Azial, Rendez-vous and O.P.I brands for the spa and beauty products. They also have proper shower/changing rooms with complimentary locker, towel, robe and steam and sauna facilities. The atmosphere is one of a resort day spa yet the prices are similar to those of a small independent spa. Massage treatments of 75 minutes average at $18. 90 Ba Trieu0510 3 933 999www.palmarosaspa.com

Palm Spa & Salon The Palm Garden resort is already a tropical haven on the beach where one immediately falls into a relaxed state. Their spa facility will take you to an even more zen-like journey and each treatment includes full use of a sauna, steam room and Jacuzzi. Well-trained masseurs (previously trained under Shiseido’s Qi brand) ensure international excellence and facials, scrubs, massages and salon services are all reasonably priced. Lac Long Quan Street, Cua Dai Beach Tel: (84.510) 3.927.927 info@pgr.com.vnwww.palmgardenresor.com.vn

Senses SpaThe Riverside Resort & Spa’s facility is nestled within the peaceful grounds of their village style complex. Their Oriental massage combines Balinese, Thai and Vietnamese techniques and comes highly recommended. For those who want to bliss out and enjoy the other fine facilities that this resort sanctuary has to offer on the river, we suggest you try the Senses Spa. 175 Cua Dai0510 3864 800www.hoianriverresort.cominfo@hoianriverresort.com

Tamarind Spa The Tamarind Spa is rated highly in Hoi An, if not all of Vietnam. They offer a plethora of spa and massages treatments such as aromatherapy, Thai, Swedish, Hot Stone, Indian, traditional (plus more treatments), among other salon service. For peerless service, treatment and an unmatched ambience, its worth splashing out and treating yourself to an experience here. Victoria Hoi An Beach Resort & SpaCua Dai Beach, Hoi An(0510) 392 7040http://www.victoriahotels-asia.com

Tuan Boy Hair Salon Tuan has cut hair all over Asia and won awards for his expert hair colouring. He has styled the hair of the Miss Universe candidates, cut the Queen of Austria’s hair and been the expert consultant for various actors filming in the heritage town of Hoi An. He is Tony & Guy certified, uses only international products and prices are fixed and reasonable. 148 Nguyen Truong To St0905 960 365 / 0905 381 597

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> Marble Mountains The Marble Mountains are a cluster of five distinc-tive hills famous for their limestone and marble contents. Considered a holy site for Buddhists, the pagodas, shrines and cave grottos within the mountains are unique and beautiful. However, the mountains have become quite ‘touristy’ over recent years and it is best to visit ei-ther early morning or late afternoon else the normally serene space is not exactly peaceful at all. You can buy a map at the ticket gate which explains where to find certain attractions within the mountains and you’ll be surprised how much there is to explore.

> Hue Once Vietnam’s capital, the imperial city still exudes a regal per-sonality that is unmatched throughout the country. For avid historians this is a must visit town – especially the Citadel, home to the forbid-den city where only emperor’s and those closest to them were allowed within its walls. Hue also boasts some of the country’s finest cuisine, having been a city that was home to the royal family the best chefs in Vietnam were handpicked by emperors to concoct special recipes. Of course commoners were banned from eating such cuisine but these days visitors can feast in a truly royal fashion during their stay.

> My Son Regarded as Vietnam’s most significant archaeologi-cal site, My Son is a must-see sanctuary for any visitor exploring Central Vietnam. The temple remnants once served as the country’s chief place of worship during the Champa Kingdom which peaked in Vietnam over 500 years ago. Visitors will see architec-tural influences from Cambodia, China and India in the unique stone vestiges. Plenty of tour operators have buses to My Son which last for a half day and cost around US$14. Ask your hotel for details or con-sult our listings (pp . Alternatively, hire a motorbike taxi to escort you – if you leave early you will miss the main throng of tourists and can stop and start as you please along the way. The journey itself is wonderfully picturesque.

> Cham Islands

These exquisitely preserved islands comprise of eight islets altogether and offler the best diving in Vietnam. Brimming with marine life and corals from 5m to 30m below the water, these islands could be described as a diver’s paradise. The main Cham Island has a small, friendly community and harbours some beautiful beaches and jungle. The best option for diving, snorkeling or sailing tours out to the island would be to organize through the Cham Island Diving Center (www.chamislanddiving.com).

> Bach Ma National Park Not unlike Ba Na hill, Bach Ma National Park was a favourite residential area among the foreign elite during the French occupation. Today this sprawling 22,031 hectare national preserve harbours some of Vietnam’s most unique wildlife – efflorts to regenerate areas cleared by either settlement or war have been very successful. In fact, species that were thought extinct have reemerged in this wonderful forest sanctuary, including the Argus and Edwards’ pheasants. For those who enjoy the outdoors, Bach Ma will provide the ideal adventure, and is a mere 3 hours from Danang. Do check the weather though, this is the wettest place in the country and October and November see the most rain. and is a mere 3 hours from Danang. Do check the weather though, this is the wettest place in the country and October and November see the most rain.

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Le Bambino: Unmatched French fare and other international dishes fea-ture on the menu of this quaint restaurant. The filet mignon, BBQ and pasta dishes are all exceptional, as well as the wine list. Owned and managed by a French-Vietnamese couple. 112/11 Quang Trung, Da Nang. (0511) 3896 386. www.lebambino.com. Mumtaz Indian Restaurant: A relatively new restaurant which already has a good reputation for excellent food and service. There is a large range of Northern and Southern Indian dishes. Mumtaz will deliver in Danang and for a minimum order of 200,000VND will even deliver to Hoi An. 231 Tran Phu. Phi Lu Chinese Restaurant: A large long established restaurant with a reputation for good food and great service. The menu is huge with a focus on Chinese and Vietnamese dishes all of which are well priced. A popular spot for a lunch time serving of Chicken Rice. 225 Nguyen Chi Thanh. Pizza Plus / Bread of Life: This fantastic place has an excellent selection of pizzas, pastas and burgers and they also bake their own bread, special orders welcome. Most of the staff are deaf, proceeds go towards training the deaf in Danang and surrounding provinces. 12 Le Hong Phong, 0511 3565 185, open Mon – Sat, 6am -10pm. Vietnamese Home Restaurant: This ia large mostly outdoor place with some interesting decoration. The menu is extensive and the dishes are well done, a good selection Northern Vietnamese cuisine with very reason-able prices. 34 Bach Dang.

VN TITLE GENRERelease

22 AprSAIGON YO! Dra/Mus22-Apr Big MOMMAS: Like Father Like Son Comedy22-Apr Lenh Xoa So Action29-Apr THOR (3D )Act/Adv6-May Fast & Furious 5 (fast five) Act/Thr6-May A chinese Ghost Story Fan/Rom6-May Limitless Act/Sci13-May Beastly Romance13-May PAUL Com/Sci13-May What Women want Com/Rom20-May Le Petit Nicolas Comedy20-May Pirates Of Caribbean: On stranger Tides (3D) 27-May Detective K: Secret of Virtuous Widow Adv/com27-May The Lost Blademan Act/Dra1-Jun Kung Fu Panda2 (3D) Ani/Com10-Jun Super 8 Adv24-Jun X-men: FIRST CLASS Act/Sci1-Jul TRANFORMRER 3 (3D) Action15-Jul CAR 2(3D) Ani/Fam15-Jul BRIDESMAIDS Comedy29-Jul CAPTAIN AMERICA: THE FIRST AVENGER 3D Act/Adv

Da Nang is Vietnam’s third largest city and has seen a vast increase in busi-ness development and tourism over the last few years. The coastal area of Da Nang – namely My Khe beach – was a famous rest and recreation point for US marines during the war. Today the beaches are still clean and expansive, stretching all the way to Hoi An. But Da Nang has many other attractions worth visiting too.

During the rainy season Da Nang has plenty of indoor options including international standard shopping malls, restaurants and plenty of entertain-ment. Literally at the centre of Vietnam, it is a city where the cosmopolitan and the cultural combine. • Cham Museum: On the corner of Trung Nu Vuong and Bach Dang

streets, this museum harbours the oldest relics of the Cham era in Vietnam. If you go to My Son, you should complement your trip with a visit to this museum which has some impressive sandstone sculptures of ancient Hindu icons.

Getting to Da Nang: Taxis can be pricey if you re going to Da Nang, generally hovering around the 350,000 VND mark (close to US$20) one way. If you want a private car, it will be cheaper and we recommend Ms Dung travel service – 09 1342 7080 – who starts at 180,000 VND for one way. If you want to stay in town for a couple of hours than you can negotiate a return price. Alternatively, there is the yellow bus which leaves from Nguyen Tat Thanh St (see our Hoi An city map) which should cost no more than 15,000 VND one way. It stops in various places in Da Nang. Dining: Apsara Restaurant: This gourmet Vietnamese restaurant is a favourite among locals and boasts an exceptional number of fine Vietnamese dishes. Expect to pay a little more than average, but the experience is worth it, particularly the seafood dishes. 222 Tran Phu, Da Nang. (0511) 3561 409, http://www.aspara-danang.com. Au Lac Vegetarian Restaurant: This is a great little place with a limited menu but the dishes are fantastic. Au Lac boasts cheap prices, friendly service and a very clean restaurant. 162 Nguyen Du. Beach front Restaurants: There are six upmarket seafood restaurants located right on the sand with great views and fresh seafood. The prices are little high but the setting is worth it, visit at sunset for the best views Turn right at the end of Pham Van Dong Street. Cool Spot Restaurant & Bar: More of restaurant than a bar this place has a large selection of good Western food as well as a range of Japanese dishes. It is a long running place and has a regular crowd of expats. 10am -10pm. 112 Tran Phu.

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looking to let their hair down, have a dance and to people watch. Can be quite expen-sive and may even be expensive to some sensitive readers. 20 Dong Da.Seventeen Saloon: A large saloon style place has live music every night, a dance floor, and regular special events. It is an interesting mix of bar and nightclub and is becoming quite popular among locals and foreigners. Z76 Tran Hung Dao. Shopping: Indochina Riverside Towers: Is home to residences, offices and a western style shopping mall. There are some very upmarket retail outlets alongside two stylish cafes; Highlands and Segafredo. If you are sick of bargaining for fake goods, come here for fixed prices on genuine name brands. 74 Bach Dang. Big C Supermarket: A Korean run 4 storey shopping complex with a supermarket, small retail shops, Highlands cafe as well as Lotteria and KFC restaurants. Megastar Cinema is located on the 4th floor. Corner of Hung Vuong and Ong Ich Khiem. Metro Cash and Carry: A huge western style megamart has a huge selec-tion of western and local products. Here is your best bet for finding food from back home and is probably the best place in town to buy groceries. A passport or business licence is required to shop here. Cach Mang Thang Tam. Han Market: Located right in the centre of Danang this is a typical Viet-namese market with a lively fresh produce section as well areas for clothes and household items. Come in the early morning for fresh seafood on the Bach Dang side of the market and remember to bargain hard. Bach Dang, Hung Vuong and Tran Phu. Sport:

Football: A small group of Danang expats get together for a friendly football(soccer) match every Sunday from 6.20pm to 7.30pm. The price depends on the number of players, usually less than 30,000 VND for each player. Tuyen Son Sports Center, turn left at the end of 2/9 street.Surfing: From October to February the stretch of coast between

Danang and Hoi An is a great place to get some waves. Despite Vietnam’s tropical climate, at this time of year a wetsuit is advisable. Boards are available to rent from Hoa’s Place and Tam’s Pub. China Beach, Non Nuoc. Tennis: As with most Vietnamese cities Danang has a large number of cheap tennis courts available to rent. Expect to pay between 30,000 and 60,000 VND per hour. 5am – 8am and 5pm – 9pm are peak times. Corner Bach Dang and Quang Trung.Yoga Club: This western style place has clean and comfortable facilities with friendly and experienced instructors. Classes run throughout the day, prices range from 20,000 to 30,000 VND per lesson each lesson is 90 minutes. 6th Floor, 76-78 Bach Dang.

Waterfront This slick bar on the Bach Dang riverside in Da Nang is fast becoming the cities’ hottest wining and dining venue. Expect excellent cocktails, a comprehensive wine list and a well-executed bistro style menu. The design of the restaurant is exceptional, creating a contemporary, minimalistic style with Asiatic touches. Happy hours are every Friday from 6 to 8pm. 150 Bach Dang 0511 384 337, open everyday from 11am to midnight.Bars:Bamboo2 Bar: This is Danang’s most popular expat hangout due to good music, relaxed atmosphere and great location across from the river. Prices are reasonable and decent food is served. 5pm till late. 230 Bach Dang.Tulip Czech Beer: A large European style beer hall serving great dark and light beer brewed on site. Also has an extensive variety of food cooked very well. A very lively atmosphere and gets quite busy most nights. 11am – 11pm. 174 September 2nd (2/9) Street.Tam’s Pub & Surf Shop: Tam’s is a small place owned and run by Tam, one of Danang’s premier tour guides and a great host. Cheap beer and simple food. Best place to come for up to date surf reports. 43 Ho Xuan Huong.Entertainment:Bowling: A great indoor sport during wet season, this bowling alley is also cheap! If you play between the hours of 9-5pm than you can get 20 balls (the equivalent of one game) for only 20,000 VND (just over $1) and shoe hire is 5,000 VND. After 5pm it’s 25,000 VND per game. 4th Floor, Bai Tho Plaza, 46 Dien Bien Phu St, 0511 3647 050.Megastar Cineplex: Da Nang’s best selection of current movies that are not dubbed in Vietnamese! (see our cinema listings on page 62). Level 4, Vinh Trung Plaza, 255-257 Hung Vuong St 0511- 3.666. 222 www.megastar-media.net.Nightclubs:Le Funk: Da Nang’s funkiest little nightspot, specializing in shooters and great beats. Join founders Antoine and David for an original cocktail. Fantastic service and drinks blend seamlessly with groovy interior design. Already fast becoming the expat favourite after-hours drinking hole, Le Funk is stylish but not pricey. Shots start at 15,000VND. 166 Bach Dang St, 0511 3843 291, 012 1554 335.New Phuong Dong: Danang’s biggest and best(?) nightclub has a reputa-tion for extremely loud music. This a popular spot for expats 140 141

Located on Cua Dai beach, Zeroseamile is open both day and night. Spend the day in the sun; taking advantage of the facilities. At night, party until dawn in Hoi An’s only proper nightclub!Complimentary beach chairs, sports equipment and pool Restaurant and bar facilities, with nighttime BBQFree pool table, foosal and nightly DJFree shuttle service from old town to nightclubCheck our local promotions section for details on happy hours and theme nights.

Lac Long Quan St, Cua Dai Beach (0510) 3 911 911 / 3 911 912

sales@zeroseamile.com www.zeroseamile.com

club

BananaSplitRestaurant 53HoangDieuSt 05103861136BeforeandNow 51LeLoiStreet 05103910599BlueDragonRestaurant 46BachDangSt 05103910742BoBoRestaurant 18LeLoiSt 05103861939BreadofLife 12LeHongPhongSt,DaNang 051133565185Brother’sCafé 27-29PhanBoiChauSt 05103914150CanCafé 74BachDangSt 05103861525CaféDesAmis 52BachDangSt 05103861616Café43 43TranCaoVanSt 05103862587Café96 96BachDangSt. 05103910441CargoClub 107-109NguyenThaiHocSt 05103910489CasaVerde 99BackDangSt 05103911594CatBienRestaurant BaiOngVillage,ChamIsland 05103864563CatTienSaFloatingBoatRestaurant 252BachDangSt,DaNang CatTienMuseumRestaurant Lot6-7XuanThieuVilla,DaNang 05113945519CavaBrasserie 53NguyenPhucChuSt 05103911646ChamIslandDiveCafé 88NguyenThaiHocSt 0918255521ChampaRestaurant,LeBelhamy Hamlet1,DienDuong,DienBanDist 05103941888CitronellaCafé 05NguyenThiMinhKhaiSt 05102241491CocoCafé CuaDaiRd 05103923320CordonBleuRestaurant 38BachDangSt 05103863439DacSanHoiAnRestaurant 89TranPhuSt 05103861533DaoTienCafé 21PhanBoiChauSt 05103914996Day&NightCafé 42TranCaoVanSt 05103916760

Index

Adventure ToursAgri-TravelCountryExperienceTour 221CuaDaiRd 05103939888AnhCuocBikeTour 635HaiBaTrungSt 0932534192HoiAnMotorbikeAdventures 54APhanChauTrinhSt 05103911930 0918230653HoiAnPhotoTour 36NguyenCongTruSt 0905671898Heaven&EarthBicycleTour 57NgoQuyenSt 05103864362 01268422260JackTran’sHoiAnEcoTour PhuocHaiVillage,CuaDaiWard 051039289000914082850GlassJeepTours 38AnThuong5,DaNang 0905406905KarmaJetski 47CuaDaiRd 05103927632VintageURALMotorbikeSidecarTours VictoriaResort,CuaDaiBeach 05103927040

Cooking Class / Tasting TourBananaLeaf 67LeLoiSt 05103861346FamilyRestaurant(TheLastGreatTasteofHoiAnTour) 108NguyenThaiHocSt 0905382783HaiCafé 98NguyenThaiHocSt 05103862210MorningGlory 106NguyenThaiHocSt 05102241555RedBridge CamThanh,Hamlet4 05103933222Sakura 119-121NguyenThaiHoc 05103910369

DivingBlueCoralDivingCenter 77NguyenThaiHocStreet 05106279297ChamIslandDivingCenter 88NguyenThaiHocSt 05103910782VietnamSailing 88NguyenThaiHocSt 05103910782

Travel AgenciesHanhCafé 73TranHungDaoSt 05103864609HoiAnBuffaloTravelAgency 542CuaDaiSt 05103914243HoiAnTravel 10TranHungDaoSt 05103910911HoiAnWindowsTour 85TranCaoVanSt 05103916763ImpressionTravel 617HaiBaTrungSt 05103862333LeNguyenTravel 32TranHungDaoSt 32LeLoiSt 05103916218Ly’sTravel 77BaTrieuSt 05103917666MrHungTravel 68TranHungDaoSt 05103862911MrDungTravel TanMy,CamAnWard 05103864113RoseTravelService 111BaTrieuSt 05103917567SinhCaféTourService 587HaiBaTrungSt 05103863948SonMySonTour 19TranHungDaoSt 05103864864TMBrother&CamelTravel 50TranHungDaoSt 05102211974

Activities (Including Adventure Tours,Cooking Class, Diving and Travel Agencies)

AlFrescoRestaurant 83TranHungDaoSt 05103929707ArtRestCafé 135TranPhuSt 05103911925ApsaraRestaurant 222TranPhuSt,DaNang 05113561409Aroy-DThaiRestaurant 599HaiBaTrungSt 05103919995BaleWell Track45-51TranHungDaoSt 05103864443BananaLeafRestaurant 67LeLoiSt 05103861346

Dining (Including both Bars and Restaurants)

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ThiNhanSeafoodRestaurant 128CuaDaiRd 05103862261ThuanYRestaurant 94BachDangSt 05103863179TaoDoRestaurant 29BaTrieuSt 0905117793VanLocRestaurant 27TranPhuSt 05103861212VegetarianRestaurant 71/20PhanChuTrinhSt 05103863733ViCafé 113TranHungDaoSt 05103917861Voulez–Vous 631HaiBaTrungSt 05103927339VuLeCafé 47CuaDaiRoad 05102212132Waterfront 150BachDangSt,DaNang 05113843373WhiteMarble 98LeLoiSt 05103911862WhiteRoseRestaurant 533HaiBaTrungSt 05103862784YellowFlowerCafé 104BachDangSt 05103241341ZeroSeamileClub LacLongQuanSt 05103911911

AccommodationAgribankResort TanThinh,CamAnWard 05103927729AnHoiHotel 69NguyenPhucChuSt 05103911888AnHuyHotel 30PhanBoiChauSt 0510862116AnPhuHotel 288NguyenDuyHieuSt 05103914345BachDangHotel 01NguyenTatThanhSt 05103917801CuaDaiHotel 544CuaDaiSt 05103862231DaiLongHotel 680HaiBaTrungSt 0510916232DongKhanhHotel 42NguyenDuyHieuSt 0510914400FrangipaniVillageResort Hamlet5,CamThanh 05103933933

light up your life light up your life LANTERNS

LONG VY

Hoi An’s most respected lantern-maker with more than 40 years experienceSupplies to all the major resorts in the regionShips overseas for business or eventsEasy-to-order online, all orders customizableBest prices and highest quality VietnamLearn how to make lanterns in Long Vy workshop

06 Phan Chu Trinh St - www.hoianlantern.com.vn longdenlongvy@gmail.com - 0510 360 6611 – 0908 664 731

Index

DingoDeliCafé 229CuaDaiRoad,HoiAn 0906552824DongThuanBakery 409CuaDaiSt 05103924988DuPortRestaurant 70BachDangSt 05103861786EdenHoiAnCafé 53BaTrieuSt 05103917930FaifooRestaurant 104TranPhuSt 05103861548FestivalNightCafé 11PhamHongThaiSt 05103915115FullmoonTowns 101CuaDaiRd 05103923922GiaĐinhRestaurantCafé 108NguyenThaiHocSt 05103862279GidinoCafé 113BaTrieuSt 05103911167GoodMorningVietnamRestaurant 102NguyenThaiHocSt 05103910227GreenChiliCafé 122NguyenThaiHocSt 05103928199GreenMossRestaurant 341NguyenDuyHieuSt 05103863728HaiCafé 98NguyenThaiHocSt 05103863210HeavenGardenRestaurant 236CuaDaiRd 05103919199HoiAnRestaurant 89TranPhuSt 05103861533HoiAnGardenRestaurant 246-248NguyenDuyHieuSt 05103924779HoiAnHaiSanRestaurant 64BachDangSt 05103861652HongPhucIICafé 98BachDangSt 05103861497JavaMinuteCafé 59NguyenThaiHocSt 05103919333KhanhHoaIIRestaurant 88BaTrieuSt 05103917765KimNhungCafé 109TranHungDaoSt 05103921205LaMeCafé 111TranHungDaoSt 05103916176LaPlageRestaurant AnBangBeach 05103928244LaughCafé 126TranCaoVanSt 05103917139L’Annam,VictoriaResort CuaDaiBeach 05103927040LeBaTruyenIIRestaurant 12BaTrieuSt 05103864463LuongGiaRestaurant 34LeLoiSt 05103911899MangoMango 45NguyenPhucChuSt 05103911863MangoRooms 111NguyenThaiHocSt 05103910839MermaidRestaurant 02TranPhuSt. 05103861527MissLyCafé 22NguyenHueSt 05103861603MoonRestaurant 321NguyenDuyHieuSt 05102241396MorningGloryRestaurant 106NguyenThaiHocSt 05102241555MorningStarRestaurant 48BachDangSt 05103861651NamLongRestaurant 103CuaDaiSt 05103923723NgocTuyetRestaurant 43TranHungDaoSt 05103861673UHaiCafé 62NguyenThaiHocSt 05103910589QuangThangRestaurant 90BackDangSt 05103862130RedBridgeRestaurant Hamlet4,CamThanhVillage 05103933222RiverLoungeRestaurant 35NguyenPhucChuSt 05103911700SakuraRestaurant 119-121NguyenThaiHocSt 05103910369Samurai 188A/5TranPhuSt 01228504627SecretGardenRestaurant 132/2TranPhuSt 05102212640SongDoRestaurant 175CuaDaiRd 05103864800SoulKitchenRestaurant Farleft,AnBangBeach 01229292922StreetsInternationalCafé 17LeLoiSt 05103911948SunShineCafé 46TranCaoVanSt 0510916902TamTamCafé 110NguyenThaiHocSt 121TranPhuSt 05103862212TerraceCafé,PalmGardenResort LacLongQuanSt 05103927927ThanhRestaurant 76BachDangSt 05103861366ThanhHienRestaurant 113BachDangSt 05103862134

144

SHOPPING (Including Arts & Crafts, Clothing, Jewellery, Shoes)

ARTS & CRAFTS (Including Art Galleries, Interior Products, Home Décor, Lanterns and Souvenirs)AmiGallery 46NguyenThaiHocStArtGallery86 90NguyenThaiHocSt 05103910398ArtGallery93 93PhanChauTrinhSt 05103862710ArtGallery155 155TranPhuSt 05103861869ArtHandicraftWorkshop 09NguyenThaiHocSt 05103910216AuLacWoodArt 152TranPhuSt 05103911092CamLySouvenirShop 31TranPhustreet 05103911542CapallanoSculpture 30NguyenThaiHocSt 05103910311CasaArt&Gifts 25PhanBoiChauSt 0984344914CharmingLacquerShop 66NguyenThaiHocSt 05103911554DaiPhucLampShop 300LyThuongKietSt 05103921524

VanLoiHotel XuyenTrung,CamNamWard 05103936205VictoriaHoiAnBeachResort CuaDaiBeach 05103927040VinhHung1Hotel 143TranPhuSt 0510861621VinhHungIIHotel NhiTrungSt 05103863717VinhHungIIIHotel 96BaTrieuSt 05103916277VinhHungResort 111NgoQuyen,AnHoiIslet 05103910393VinhHuyHotel 203LyTuongKietSt 0510916559VuonTrauFamilyResort CamChauVillage 0510924165

The preferred choice for foreigners/expats, Tuan has cut hair for many celebrities including the Queen of Austria and Miss Universe 16 years experience, Toni & Guy Certifi ed, uses International products such as L’Oreal and SchwarzkopfPrices fi xed. Female hair cut $9, Male hair cut $6. Colouring is $25 for one colour short hair in females / $45 for long hair. Male colouring is $15. Show advert to receive 10% discount

148 Nguyen Truong To St 0905 960 365 - 0905 381 597

Tuan Salon: Boy

AboveA Cut A Cut

Index

FuramaResort 68HoXuanHuongSt,DaNang 05113847888GloryHotel 538CuaDaiRd 05103914444GoldenSandResort CuaDaiBeach 05103927550GrasslandHotel 500HaiBaTrungSt 05103921921GreenFieldHotel 423CuaDaiSt 0510863484HaAnHotel 06-08PhanBoiChauSt 05103863126HaiAuHotel 576(24B)CuaDaiRd 05103914577HaiYenHotel 568CuaDaiSt 05103862445HoaBinhHotel 696HaiBaTrungSt 05103916838HoaMyHotel 201LyThuongKietSt 0510916582HoangTrinhHotel 45LeQuyDonSt 05103916579HoiAnAncientHouseResort 377CuaDaiRd 05103923377HoiAnBeachResort 01CuaDaiRd 05103927011HoiAnHotel 10TranHungDaoSt 0510861445HoiAnPacificHotel 321CuaDaiRd 05103923777HoiAnRiversideResort 175CuaDaiRd 05103864800HoiAnTradeUnionHotel 80TranHungDaoSt 05103862370HoiAnTrailsResort 276CuaDaiRd 05103923999HopYenHotel 103BaTrieuSt 05103863153HoiPhoHotel 627HaiBaTrungSt 0510916382HuyHoangIIHotel 87HungVuongSt 05103916233LeBelhamyResort DienDuongHamlet,DienBanDist 05103941888LeDomaineDeTamHaiResort TamHai,NuiThanh 05103545105LifeResort 01PhamHongThaiSt 05103914555LongLifeHotel 30BaTrieuSt 05103916696LotusHotel 330CuaDaiRd 05103923357MinhQuangHotel 551HaiBaTrungSt 05103916230MyChauHotel 04TranCaoVanSt 05103916307NamHaiResort Hamlet1,DienDuongVillage 05103940000NhatHuyHoangHotel 58BaTrieuSt 05103861665NhiNhiHotel 60HungVuongSt 05103916718OrchidGardenHomeStay 382CuaDaiRd 05103863720PalmGardenResort CamAnWard 05103927927PhuongDongHotel 42BaTrieuSt 0510916339PhuongNamHotel 224LyThaiToSt 0510923401PhuocAnI 31/1TranCaoVanSt 0510916757PhuocAnIIRiverHotel 242CuaDaiRd 0510924111PhuThinhIIHotel 488CuaDaiRd 05103923923PhoHoiIHotel 7/2TranPhuSt 05103861633PhoHoiRiversideResort XuyenTrung,CamNamWard 05103862628RiverBeachResort CuaDaiBeach 05103927888SeaandSandHotel 15CuaDaiBeach 05103927999SeaStarHotel 489CuaDaiRd 05103861589ThanhBinhIHotel 01LeLoiSt 05103861740ThanhBinhIIIhotel 98BaTrieuSt 05103916777ThanhVanHotel 78TranHungDaoSt 05103916916RedBridgeVilla Hamlet4,CamThanhVillage 05103933222 0905452092ThienNgaHotel 52BaTrieuSt 0510916330ThienThanhHotel 16BaTrieuSt 0510916545ThienTrungHotel 129TranHungDaoSt 05103861769ThuyDuongIIIHotel 92-94BaTrieuSt 05103916565

146

16 years experience, one of the original Hoi An cloth designersHigh quality, one-on-one, family style service

Follows European technique and latest catalogue designsFair prices, high quality

Taste TasteTailoringTailoringwithwith

15 Phan Boi Chau St / 0510 3863 280 / 0905 101 068 rinmy_07@yahoo.com/www.rinmytailors.com

CLOTHING (Including Fashion, Boutiques and Tailors)

ADongSilk 62TranHungDaoSt 05103910579AnClothShop 63NguyenThaiHocSt 05103911144AnhSilkBoutique 507CuaDaiSt 05102211981AoBaBaClothShop 148TranPhuSt 05103920666AsianClothShop 572CuaDaiSt 05103863911Au-AGlasses 87NguyenThaiHocSt 01268400950Avana 15NguyenThiMinhKhaiSt 05103939949Bam–BoClothshop 481CuaDaiRd 05102212315BambooGreenTailor 38TranPhuSt 05103861053BaoAnClothShop 64BaTrieuSt 05103917379BaoDiepClothShop 28TranHungDaoSt 05103917078BaoKhanhTailor 101TranHungDaoSt 05103861818BeBeClothShop 11HoangDieuSt 05102212670BiBoDesign 52TranHungDaoSt 05103917923BinClothShop 296NguyenDuyHieuSt 0510914524BlueClothShop 56TranHungDaoSt 05103917392BlueGeckoClothShop 279NguyenDuyHieuSt 05103915789IxoraShop 96NguyenThaiHocSt 05102471191BupDesign 68NguyenThaiHocSt 05103862165CaliDesign 12LeLoiSt 05103911100

Index

DiemKieuSouvenirShop 9NguyenHueSt 0510222455FineArtHandicraftWorkshop 41LeLoiSt 05103862164FaifoArtGallery 05ChauThuongVanSt 05103861782FocoSouvenirShop 128TranPhuSt 05103862490HaLinhLanternShop 72TranNhanTongSt 05103923037HoaDaoHandMade 128NguyenThaiHocSt 05103910482HoaMaiArtGallery 114NguyenThaiHocSt 05103862339HoangThachsouvenirshop 49NguyenThiMinhKhaiSt 05103863423HoiAnAgarwood 186TranPhuSt 05103911866HungDongArtGallery 52TranPhuSt 0510862902HungLongArtGallery 105NguyenThaiHocSt 05103861924HungThaiSouvenirShop 105TranPhuSt 05103911200HungToanArt-Wooden 26NguyenThiMinhKhaiSt 0905558323KimBongCraftVillage TrungHaVillage,CamKim 05103934282LamKieuSouvenirShop 41TranPhuSt 05103861565LanternShop 65TranPhuSt 05103861996LocAnArtGallery 117NguyenThaiHocSt 05103910208LongVyLanterns 06PhanChauTrinhSt 05103606611MontagneHandicrafts 101TranPhuSt 0912357585MosaiqueDecoration 61APhanChuTrinhSt 05108505000MrBinhSouvenirShop 131TranPhuSt 05103862179NamTranArtCraft 62BachDangSt 05103911461NganXuaArtGallery 95TranPhuSt 05103911467NguyenTanHiepArtGallery 44TranPhuSt 05103911077PhanKimChiArtGallery 37LeLoiSt 05103910119PhuocTinhSouvenirShop 13TranPhuSt 05103861460QuynhGiaoEmbroidery 638HaiBaTrungSt 05103917930RadioTan 174LyThuongKietSt 05103861270ReachingOutHandicrafts 103NguyenThaiHocSt 0510910168SameSameButBetterGallery 298LeLoiSt 05103910294SoilGallery 303NguyenDuyHieuSt 05103914967TanPhongHomeFurniture 48LyThuongKietSt 05103862970ThangLoiFineArts_Handicraft 92PhanChuTrinhSt 05103864610ThanhCongArtGallery 95NguyenThaiHocSt 05103863673ThanhTramSouvenirShop 51TranPhuSt 05103911165ThienTanHomeFuniture 173LyThuongKietSt 05103917138TiTiElectronicShop 264LyThuongKietSt 05103864691TramHoiAnFineArtsHandicraft 186TranPhuSt 05103911866TranPhuBamboo&Lacquer 75TranPhuSt 05103911134TranPhuLanternShop 65TranPhuSt 05103861996TrungTinHomeFurniture 130LyThuongKietSt 05103939939TuoiNgocLantern 103TranPhuSt 05103861920TuyenXuongLoiSouvenirShop 48TranPhuSt 05103911048VanAnhCarving&Bamboo 40NguyenThiMinhKhaiSt 0905113180VanToanSouvenirShop 120NguyenThaiHocSt 05103911221VinaSouvenirShop 62TranPhuSt 0511862781VietTownArtisanVillage 127PhanChuTrinhSt 05103917700XQVietnam 23NguyenThaiHocSt 0510911872YinYangAntique&ArtShop 60TranPhuSt 0510391144909SouvenirShop 65TranHungDaoSt 0510386357375TranPhuSouvenirShop 75TranPhuSt 05103911134

148

PhuQuocSouvenirShop 162TranPhuSt 05103911361PhuocAnClothShop 06LeLoiSt 0510862615PhuongHuyClothShop 26TranPhuSt 05103910425RinMyClothShop 15PhanBoiChau 051038632820SilkRoadTailor 91PhanChauTrinhSt 05103863777 91NguyenThaiHocSt 05103911058SongShop 76NguyenThaiHocSt 05103916333Sova111Couture&Design 111TranPhuSt 05103911078SumTailor 102TranPhuSt 05103863394SunClothShop 273NguyenDuyHieuSt 05103861449TamarindTreeFineClothing 2/6LeLoiSt 05103863784ThaoNguyenClothShop 79PhanChauTrinhSt 05103861357TheGalaxyTailor 37TranPhuSt 05103861764ThuLinhIITailor 40TranPhuSt 05103241232ThuLyClothShop 48TranHungDaoSt 05103864765ThuThuySilk 60LeLoiSt 05103861699ThuongClothShop 16TranHungDaoSt 05103863146ThuongGiaTailor 41NguyenThaiHocSt 05103910712ThongPhiTailor 28LeLoiSt 05103861145TonytheTailor 294NguyenDuyHieuSt 05103861923TotoClothshop 32-34BaTrieuSt 05103864797

Index

ChicCouture 698HaiBaTrungSt 0510864110Chic-UniqueClothShop 62PhanBoiChauSt 05103914187ChipTailor 42BachDangSt 05103910678DongDuongTailor 115TranPhuSt 05103911611DungTailor 23LeLoiSt 05103863865ElegantClothShop 35LeLoiSt 05103911847Everybody’sFashion 718HaiBaTrungSt 05103911174FamilyClothesShop 86BaTrieuSt 05103917227FashionShop 588HaiBaTrungSt 0905939044FutureClothShop 586CuaDaiRd 05103915186GiogioTailor 702HaiBaTrungSt 05102241440Guy&GalsClothShop 17TranHungDaoSt 05103861947HanhHungClothShop 103TranHungDaoSt 0510910456HappyClothShop 57PhanBoiChauSt 05103915199HeritageBoutique 29NguyenThaiHocSt 05103911777HoangLanClothShop 42TranPhuSt 0510910955 105BaTrieuSt 0510212376HouseofHoiAn 41LeLoiSt 05103911512HugoIIClothShop 29TranPhuSt 05103916553HuongXuanClothShop 08LeLoiSt 05103861498ImpressionBoutique 70TranHungDaoSt 05103862063KhoiClothShop 20TranHungDaoSt 05103861113KimChiTailor 90LeLoiSt 05103862244KimNhungClothShop 166NguyenTruongToSt 05103927135KimQuyenClothShop 113NguyenThaiHocSt 05103862134LanaStylist 130TranPhuSt 23&96LeLoiSt 05103911211LaVyClothShop 36BaTrieuSt 05103501581LongSilk 172TranPhuSt 05103863400LyClothShop 55PhanBoiChauSt 05103914123MacKhaiClothShop 12NguyenThaiHocSt 05103861397MaiLyClothShop 57NguyenThaiHocSt 05103862794MaiThanhSilk 112TranPhuSt 0905947417MinhTriTailor 342CuaDaiSt. 05103241590MyDieuClothShop 61BaTrieuSt 05103916980MyMyClothShop 164TranPhuSt 05103863816MyTrangFashion 503CuaDaiSt 05103862282NamNgaiSilk 93TranPhuSt 05103861166NewFashionII 89TranCaoSt 05103917893NewWorldClothShop 70NguyenThaiHocSt 05103910300NganHaClothShop 37TranPhuSt 05103861764NhatSilk 36TranHungDaoSt 05103917909NgocUyenSilk 92LeLoiSt 05103863278NitTailorI&II 42TranPhuSt 05103910955NyNaBoutique 86LeLoiSt 05103922922PapayaT-Shirt 134NguyenThaiHocSt 05103911068PapillonNoir 30TranHungDaoSt 76TranPhuSt 05103917941

150 151

145

La PlageCam An beach - An Bang village - Hoi An - Vietnam

laplagehoian.com

FOOD - MUSIC - PEACE - CHESS - PETANQUE - WIFI - BONS PLANS - AMAZING BEACH...

NamSonFootMassage 414CuaDaiRd 05103924939NinaNails 79BaTrieuSt 05103501768NQSpa 446CuaDaiRd 05103924990OnaSpa-BeautySalon 45BaTrieuSt 05103862890PacificHospital 06PhanDinhPhungSt 0510921398PalmSpa&Salon LacLongQuanSt 05103927927PalmarosaSpa 90BaTrieuSt 05103933999QiSpa,PalmGardenResort CamAnWard 05103927927SensesSpa 175CuaDaiRd 05103864800TamarindSpa,VictoriaHotel CuaDaiBeach 05103927040TinDucClinic 84TranCaoVanSt 05103917819TuanBoyBeautySalon 148NguyenTruongToSt 0905960365VenusSpa 95BaTrieuSt 05103501854ZenSpa 10TranHungDaoSt 05103911588216Pharmacy 03ThaiPhienSt 05103863753230Pharmacy 584CuaDaiRd 05103862302

Entertainment: (Including Nightspots and Clubs with Activities)

BambooBar 05BachDangSt,DaNang 05113862029Before&NowBar 51LeLoiSt 0510910599CamelClub 16LyThuongKietSt,DaNang 05113887462FaifoBar,VictoriaResort CuaDaiBeach 05103927040GuitarHawaii 40NguyenPhucTanSt 0935116147

LISTINGIndex

Health and Wellness: (Including Medical, Spa and Salons, Pharmacy)

AlySpa&BeautySalon 49BaTrieuSt 05103917972BaoTramSpa 496CuaDaiRoad 0905999267CountrysideCharmSpa 512CuaDaiRd 05103501584Dentist,DrNguyenXuanHai 13LeLoiSt 05103861513Dr:HoHuuPhuoc 47LeLoiSt 05103861419DreamSpa 91BaTrieuSt 05103623174FamilyMedicalPractice 50-52NguyenVanLinhSt,DaNang 05113582699HoiAnDaySpa 47BaTrieuSt 05102222723HuyHoangPharmacy 268LyThuongKietSt 05103916312LifeSpa,LifeResort 1PhamHongThaiSt 05103914555MinhTamPharmacy 04TranHungDaoSt 05103914606NaSpa 463CuaDaiRd 05103914199NamHaiSpa Hamlet1,DienDuong,DienBanDist. 05103940000

TrangTriClothShop 63TranHungDaoSt 05103911179VuThuClothShop 299NguyenDuyHieuSt 05103863975VyVyClothShop Stallno1,HoiAnClothesMarket 05102211972YalyCouture 47NguyenThaiHocSt 05103910474YamyClothShop 11LeLoiSt 0510391021523BaTrieuClothShop 23BaTrieuSt 05103962111

JEWELLERY AnhVuSilverShop 78LeLoiSt 0510910411BacVietJewellery 10PhamHongThaiSt 0905550062BienBacJewelry 55HoangDieuSt 05103862353LacVietJewellery 23HoangDieuSt 05103914135LoLemSteringSilverShop 62NguyenThaiHocSt 05103910589LotusJewellery 100NguyenThaiHocSt 05103917889MemoryJewellery 96ABachDangSt 05103911483MyKim-JoliKimJewellery 97NguyenThaiHocSt 05103864020NgocDucSilverShop 147TranPhuSt 05103862390PhucThinhJewellery 139TranPhuSt 05103864269QuynhGiaoJewellery 636HaiBaTrungSt 05103917930

SHOE BaoAnhShoesShop 311NguyenDuyHieuSt 05103914594BaoLongShoeShop 18NguyenHueSt 05102212483DinhShoeShop 33TranPhuSt 0510911655FirstShoeShop 275NguyenDuyHieuSt 05103914373GiayVietShoeShop 635HaiBaTrungSt 05103917689HieuGiayShoesShop 78BachDangSt 05106281351HueKiemShoesShop 61NguyenThaiHocSt 05103863984LevyShoesShop 134TranPhuSt 05103911299LinhShoeShop 16TranPhuSt 0510861975NewFashionShoeShop 79PhanChuTrinhSt 0510241723ShoeShop09 65TranHungDaoSt 05103863573ThienLongShoeShop 495CuaDaiSt 05103915193TinBag&ShoeShop 724HaiBaTrungSt 05103910223TongArtShoeShop 26PhanBoiChauSt 05103915202732NhiTrungHandbag&ShoeShop 732NhiTrungSt 05103910661

152

Picking a tailor in Hoi An is like the lot-tery; there are innumerous shops, many looking similar to the one next door. Fortunately the tailors that have been around for as long as Dung Tailor (more than 20 years) are very reliable. Hoi An is too small a town to survive if your work lacks quality.

Dung Tailor is a mum and pop shop that exudes good vibes. It is a family shop in every sense of the word – Mr Dung, along with his wife and daugh-ters, run the business which has been open since 1989. Being a trained tailor himself, all made-to-order clothes are made on the shop premises or in Mr Dung’s own home.

While tailors in Hoi An will typically try to undercut their peers, Dung Tailor offer fair prices from the beginning. The prices are determined by the amount of hours needed to make each product and the quality of material. Mr Dung won’t compromise on quality in order to lure customers with cheap prices.

If you’re looking to have something custom-made during a visit in Hoi An, Dung Tailor is a trustworthy family business that offers friendly service, peerless expertise and fair prices! Expect personal attention and service and high quality.

Dung Tailor 23 Le Loi - 0510 386 3865 - 0905 945 956 duyen_dung38@yahoo.com

LISTINGIndex

Mini Marts & Wine (Including Mini Marts, Groceries, Wine)

Books, Computers, DVDs, Mobile Phones, Photo Shop

BichThuyMiniMart&Wine 318LyThuongKietSt 05103820899Celliersd’AsieFineWines 24BaTrieuSt 05103917070DingoDeli 229CuaDaiRd 0906552824FrenchRedWine 185LyThuongKietSt 05103917070HanhNgaMiniMart NearTanAnMarket 05103917210NgaToanMiniMart 78DinhTienHoangSt 05103917210SonToanMiniMart HaiBaTrungSt 05103919152Trung–VanWineShop 49LeLoiSt 05103910105TuHuongGroceries 104NguyenTruongToSt 05103924563VanToanGroceries 177LyThuongKietSt 05103861416VineGroup,WinesandSpirits 644HaiBaTrungSt 05103917922

BookExchange 43PhanBoiChauSt 0510861692ChanhBinhPhotoShop 09PhamHongThaiSt 05103863142DVDshop 734HaiBaTrungSt 0903585186HoiAnBookStore 2ANguyenHueSt 05103910979KienVinhComputerShop 586HaiBaTrungSt 05103917393LanLanPhoneShop 150NguyenTruongToSt 0972757767LeGiaComputerShop 276LyThuongKietSt 05103920969LegendDVDshop 73PhanChauTrinhSt 05103936159MrHungBookStore 06NguyenHueSt 05103910405PhoneShop 18LyThuongKietSt 05103921371PhotocopyShop 189LyThuongKiet 05103916109Randy’sBookExchange CamNamVillage 0936089483TamPhatComputerShop 11BaTrieuSt 05103917952TanThoiPhoneShop 298LyThuongKiet 05103934444

HeritageBar 01PhamHongThaiStreet 05103914555LaPlage Farright,AnBangbeach, 05103928244LeFunk 166BachDangSt,DaNang 05113843291 0121554335NamBar 61NguyenPhucChuSt 01213141524NewPhuongDongDiscotheque 20DongDaSt,DN 05113825092QBar 94NguyenThaiHocSt 05103911964RiverLoungeBar 35NguyenPhucChuSt 05103911700SeventeenSaloon 76TranHungDaoSt,Danang 05113530987TamTamBar 110NguyenThaiHocSt 121TranPhuSt 05103862212Treat’sBar 158TranPhuSt 05103861125VegasBar 581HaiBaTrungSt 05103863430WhiteMarbleWineBar 98NguyenThaiHocSt 05103911862ZeroSeamileBeachClub LacLongQuanSt 05103911911

154

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Important Contacts

Hoi An is a laid back place with problems rarely surfacing, however, we have listed important numbers for you to call should you have any health, safety or other concerns. If you have any feedback for us about what else should be included, we invite you to write us an email: editor@livehoian-magazine.comtacts

Emergency

Family Medical Practice, Danang0913 917 303

Hoi An0903 597 997

Hoi An Police Station(0510) 3 861 204

Hoi An Tourism Authority (0510) 3 861 327

Hoi An Hospital (0510) 861 364

(0510) 3 861 480

Hoi An Taxi Corporation(0510) 3919919

(0510) 3 862 952

Extension)(0510) 3910093

Mai Linh Taxi Corporation(0510) 3914914

156

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