firsttime

SEWINGTHEABSOLUTEBEGINNER’SGUIDE

bytheeditorsofCreativePublishinginternational

ContentsINTRODUCTION

SEWINGBASICSTHESEWINGMACHINEMACHINEACCESSORIESSEWINGSUPPLIESSPECIALPRODUCTSFABRICINFORMATIONSELECTINGAPATTERNALLABOUTPATTERNSINSIDETHEPATTERNPATTERNLAYOUTCUTTINGANDMARKINGGETTINGREADYTOSEWSEWINGASEAMHOWTOBALANCETENSIONHANDSTITCHESHEMSCUTTINGDECORATORFABRICS

PROJECTSRECTANGULARTABLECLOTHKNIFE-EDGEPILLOWSZIPPERCLOSURESBABYBLANKETELASTIC-WAISTSKIRTSELASTIC-WAISTPANTST-SHIRTSAPRONWITHPOCKETSUNLINEDJACKETS

GLOSSARYINDEX

IntroductionWELCOMETOTHECREATIVE,REWARDINGWORLDOFSEWING.FIRSTTIMESEWINGISDESIGNEDTOMAKEYOURLEARNINGEXPERIENCEASPAINLESSASPOSSIBLEANDTOINSTILLCONFIDENCEASYOUTAKEONNEWPROJECTSANDLEARNNEWTECHNIQUES.EASY-TO-FOLLOWINSTRUCTIONSWITHCOLORFULPHOTOGRAPHSHELPYOUBUILDYOURSEWINGSKILLSWHILEMAKINGCLOTHES,GIFTS,ANDHOMEDECORATINGITEMSYOU’LLBEPLEASEDTOUSE,SHARE,ANDWEAR.

Sewingenthusiastsenjoythistime-honoredartformanyreasons.Sewingyourownclothesstillgivesyoutheadvantageofpersonalizedfitandindividualexpression.Homedecoratingitemsarepopularprojectsforbeginnersandadvancedsewersalike,partlybecauseofthecostsavingsoverpurchaseditems.Bysewingtheseitemsforthehome,youalsogettoenjoythecreativefunofchoosingstyles,colors,andfabricsthatfityourpersonalityandtaste.Butperhapsthegreatestreasonthatsewingissoenjoyableisthemeresatisfactionfeltincreatingsomethingfromscratchwithyourowntwohands.Whetheryouaremakingsomethingforyourself,yourhome,ortogivetosomeoneelse,theultimaterewardistheintangibledelightandpersonalfulfillmentgainedintheprocess.

Theprojectsinthisbookaredesignedtoguideyoufromyourfirstnervousstitchatyoursewingmachinetocomfortablefamiliarity.Eachprojectwillteachyounewskills.Throughoutthebookyouwillfindtipstomakeyoursewingeasierormoreefficientandexplanationstohelpyouunderstandthereasonsbehindthemethods.

Usethefirstsectionofthebooktoacquaintyourselfwithyoursewingmachineandthetechniquesandsuppliesthatencompasstheartofsewing.Yoursewingmachineowner’smanualisanecessity;refertoitfirstifyouhavequestionsorproblemsspecifictoyourmachine.Thefirststepinanysewingprojectistoreadthroughthedirectionsfrombeginningtoend.RefertotheTellMeMoresidebarsfordefinitionsorelaborationsonboldkeywordsorphrasesusedintheproject.Atthebeginningofeveryprojectyouwillfindalistofthenecessarymaterials.Readthroughtheinformationonfabricsbeforeyougoshopping,sothefabricstorewillseemalittlemoreuser-friendlywhenyougetthere.Aboveall,enjoytheprocess.Giveyourselftheopportunitytobecreative,

andexpressyourselfthroughthethingsyousew.

SEWINGBASICS

Thereisnobetterplacetostartthanattheverybeginning.Ifyouarestartingfromscratch,evenatriptothefabricstorecanbechallenging.Manufacturerscan’tincludeallthevitalinformationwiththeirpackaging,andtherearesomanytoolsandsewingnotionstochoosefrom.Togiveyouafirmfoundationforlearningtosew,thissectionteachesyoutheessentialsaboutyoursewingmachine,fabrics,patterns,andsewingsupplies.Ifyouhavenevertakenastitch,youwillappreciatethedetailedinformation,photos,andillustrations.Evenifyouhavealittlesewingexperience,youaresuretolearnsomethingsyoudidn’tknow.Sosettleback,takeyourtime,andjumpintothebasics.

thesewingmachine

Theprinciplepartscommontoallmodernsewingmachinesareshowninthediagramatright.Thepartsmaylookdifferentonyourmodel,andtheymayhaveslightlydifferentlocations,soopenyourowner’smanual,also.Ifyoudonothaveanowner’smanualforyourmachine,contactasewingmachinedealerwhosellsyourbrandorsearchtheInternet.Becomefamiliarwiththenamesofthepartsandtheirfunctions.Asyouspendmoretimesewing,theseitemswillbecomesecondnaturetoyou.

Ifyouarebuyinganewmachine,considerhowmuchandwhatkindofsewingyouexpecttodo.Talktofriendswhosewandtosalespersonnel.Askfordemonstrations,andsewonthemachineyourself.Experimentwiththevariousfeatureswhilesewingonavarietyoffabrics,includingknits,wovens,lightweights,anddenim.Thinkabouttheoptionalfeaturesofthemachineandwhichonesyouwantonyours.Manydealersofferfreesewinglessonswiththepurchaseofamachine.Takeadvantage!Theselessonswillbegearedtoyourparticularbrandandmodelofsewingmachine.

Thesepartsarecommontoallsewingmachines,buttheirpositionanddesigndiffers.Useyourmanualtohelpyoulearnwherethesepartsare,whatthesepartsdo,andhowtousethem:

Bobbin

BobbincaseBobbinwinderspindleBobbinwindertensionButtonholeknobDetachablemachinebedFeeddogsFeeddogcontrolGeneral-purposepresserfootHandwheelLightswitchNeedleclampPresserfootlifterPresserfootpressurecontrolSeamallowanceguideSpoolpinsStitchpatternselectorStitchlengthselectorStitchwidthselectorTake-upleverToptensioncontrolToptensiondiscsThreadcutterThreadguidesThroatplateVariablespeedswitch

machineaccessories

SEWINGMACHINENEEDLES

Sewingmachineneedlescomeinavarietyofstylesandsizes.Thecorrectneedlechoicedependsmostlyonthefabricyouhaveselected.Sharppoints(A),usedforwovenfabrics,aredesignedtopiercethefabric.Ballpoints(B)aredesignedtoslipbetweentheloopsofknitfabricratherthanpierceandpossiblydamagethefabric.Universalpointsaredesignedtoworkonbothwovenandknittedfabrics.Thesizeoftheneedleisdesignatedbyanumber,generallygiveninbothAmerican(9,11,12,14,16,18)andEuropean(60,70,80,90,100,110)numberingsystems.Usesize11/70or12/80needlesformediumweightfabrics.Alargernumbermeanstheneedleisthickerandthatitisappropriateforusewithheavierfabricsandheavierthreads.

TIPThoughneedlestyleandsizeareusuallyindicatedinsomewayontheneedle,itisoftendifficulttoseewithoutamagnifyingglass,andyoumostlikelywillnotrememberwhatneedleisinthemachine.Asaneasyreminder,whenyoufinishasewingsession,leaveafabricswatchfromyourcurrentprojectunderthepresserfoot.

BOBBINSStitchesaremadebylockingtheupperthreadwithalowerthread,carriedonabobbin.Alwaysusebobbinsinthecorrectstyleandsizeforyourmachine.Bobbinthreadtensioniscontrolledbyaspringonthebobbincase,whichmaybebuiltin(C)orremovable(D).

PRESSERFEETEverysewingmachinecomeswithaccessoriesforspecializedtasks.Morecanbepurchasedasyoudevelopyourinterestandskills.Yourmachinemanualordealercanshowyouwhataccessoriesareavailableandwillexplainhowtousethemtogetthebestresults.

Ageneral-purposefoot(A),probablytheoneyouwillusemostoften,hasawideopeningtoaccommodatetheside-to-sidemovementoftheneedleinalltypesofutility(nondecorative)stitches.Itisalsosuitableformoststraightstitching.Azipperfoot(B)isusedtoinsertzippersortostitchanyseamthathasmorebulkononesidethantheother.Forsomesewingmachines,thezipperfootisstationary,requiringyoutomovetheneedlepositiontotherightorleft.Forotherstyles,thepositionofthezipperfootitselfisadjustable.Aspecial-purposeorembroideryfoot(C)hasagroovedbottomthatallowsthefoottoridesmoothlyoverdecorativestitchesorraisedcords.Somestylesareclearplastic,allowingyoutoseeyourworkmoreclearly.Awalkingfoot(D)feedstopandbottomlayersatequalrates,allowingyoutomoreeasilymatchpatternsorstitchbulkylayersasforquilting.

sewingsupplies

Sewinginvolvesmanysteps:measuring,layingoutthepattern,cutting,marking,stitching,andpressing.Foreachofthesestepstherearespecialtoolsandsuppliestomakeyoursewingeasierandhelpyoucompleteyourprojectssuccessfully.Don’tfeelyouneedtobuyalltheitemsbeforeyoustart.Forinstance,apairofsharpshearsandaseamripperwillseeyouthroughmostofthecuttingtasksfortheprojectsinthisbook.Youwillundoubtedlyacquireadditionaltoolsasyourskillsandinterestsgrow.

HAND-SEWINGSUPPLIESNeedlesandpinsareavailableinavarietyofsizesandstyles.Lookforrustproofneedlesandpinsmadeofbrass,nickel-platedsteel,orstainlesssteel.Picturedfromtoptobottom:

Sharpsareall-purpose,medium-lengthneedlesdesignedforgeneralsewing.Crewelsaresharp,large-eyedmedium-lengthneedles,designedfor

embroidery.Betweensareveryshortandround-eyed.Theyareusefulforhandquilting

andmakingfinestitches.Milliner’sneedlesarelongwithroundeyesandareusedformakinglong

bastingorgatheringstitches.Pinswithcoloredballheadsareeasiertoseeandarelesslikelytogetlost

thanthosewithflatheads.straightpinsareusedforgeneralsewing.Theyshouldbeslimandare

usually11/16"(2.7cm)long.Quiltingpinsare13/4"(4.5cm)long.Theirextralengthmakesthemidealfor

useonbulkyfabricsorfabricswithextraloft.

AAthimbleprotectsyourfingerwhilehandsewing.Availableinavarietyofstylesandsizes,itiswornonwhicheverfingeryouusetopushtheneedlethroughthefabric.Mostpeopleprefereitherthemiddleorringfinger.Usingathimbleisanacquiredhabit.Somepeoplecan’tgetalongwithoutone,whileothersfeeltheyareanuisance.

BPincushionsprovideasafeandhandyplacetostorepins.Onestyleiswornonthewristforconvenience.Anotherstyle,amagnetictray,attractsandholdssteelpins.Becarefulnottoplaceanymagnetictoolsnearacomputerizedmachine,becausethemagnetmayinterferewiththemachine’smemory.

CNeedlethreaderseasethreadingofhandandmachineneedles.Thisisespeciallyusefulifyouhavedifficultyseeingsomethingthatsmall.

DThreadcanbedrawnthroughbeeswaxtostrengthenitandpreventitfrom

tanglingwhilehandsewing.

MEASURING&MARKINGTOOLS

ATransparentrulerallowsyoutoseewhatyouaremeasuringandmarking.Italsoisusedtocheckfabricgrainline.

BYardstick(meterstick)shouldbemadeofsmoothhardwoodormetal.

CTapemeasurehastheflexibilityhelpfulformeasuringitemswithshapeanddimension.Selectonemadeofamaterialthatwillnotstretch.

DSeamgaugeisa6"(15cm)metalorplasticrulerwithaslidingmarker.Ithelpstakequick,accuratemeasurementsandcanbeusedtomeasureseamallowancewidths.

ETransparentT-squareisusedtolocategrainlineandtomeasure90-degreeangles.

FMarkingchalkisavailableinseveralforms:aspowderinarollingwheeldispenser,asapencil,orasaflatslice.Chalklinesareeasilyremovablefrommostfabrics.

GFabricmarkingpensareavailableinbothair-erasableandwater-erasableforms.Air-erasablemarksdisappearwithin48hours;water-erasablemarkswashoffwithasprinklingofwater.

HNarrowmaskingtapeisanalternativemethodformarkingfabricswhenothermethodsarelesssuitable.

CUTTINGTOOLSBuyqualitycuttingtoolsandusethemonlyforyoursewing!Cuttingpaperorotherhouseholdmaterialswilldullyourcuttingtoolsquickly.Dulltoolsarenotonlytiresometoworkwith,theycanalsodamagefabric.Scissorshavebothhandlesthesamesize;shearshaveonehandlelargerthantheother.Haveyourcuttingtoolssharpenedperiodicallybyaqualifiedprofessional.

IBent-handleddressmaker’sshearsarebestforcuttingoutprojectpiecesbecausetheangleofthelowerbladeletsfabriclieflatonthecuttingsurface.Bladelengthsof7"or8"(18or20.5cm)aremostpopular,butlengthsofupto12"(30.5cm)areavailable.Selectabladelengthappropriateforthesizeofyourhand;shorterlengthsforsmallerhands.Left-handedmodelsarealsoavailable.

JSewingscissorswithpointedtipsarehandyforclippingthreadsandtrimmingandclippingseamallowances.A6"(15cm)bladeissuitableformosttasks.

KSeamripperquicklyremovesstitchesandopensbuttonholes.Useitcarefullytoavoidcuttingthefabric.

LRotarycutterworkslikeapizzacutterandcanbeusedbyleft-handedorrighthandedsewers.Alockingmechanismretractsthebladeforsafety.Usetherotarycutterwithaspecialplasticmat,availableindifferentsizes,withorwithoutgridlines.Theself-healingmatprotectsboththeworksurfaceandtheblade.

MPinkingshearsandpinkingrotarycuttersareusedtofinishseamallowances.Theycutfabricinazigzagorscallopedpatterninsteadofastraightline.

PRESSINGTOOLSPressingateachstageofconstructionisthesecrettoaperfectlyfinishedgarment.Thegeneralruleistopresseachstitchedseambeforecrossingitwithanother.

ASteam/sprayironshouldhaveawidetemperaturerangetoaccommodateallfabrics.Buyadependable,name-brandiron.Anironthatsteamsandspraysatanysetting,notjustthehigherheatsettings,ishelpfulforfabricswithsyntheticfibers.

BPressclothhelpspreventironshineandisalwaysusedwhenapplyingfusibles.Thetransparentclothallowsyoutoseeifthefabricissmoothandthelayersareproperlyaligned.

CTeflon-coatedsoleplateguard,availabletofitmostirons,eliminatestheneedforapresscloth.

DSeamrollisafirmlypackedcylindricalcushionforpressingseams.Thebulkofthefabricfallstothesidesawayfromtheiron,preventingtheseamfrommakinganimprintontherightsideofthefabric.

EPressinghamisafirmlypackedcushionforpressingcurvedareasofa

garment.

FSleeveboardlooksliketwosmallironingboardsattachedoneontopoftheother.Itisusefulforpressingsleevesonelayeratatimetoavoidunwantedcreases.

specialproducts

Manyspecialproductsandgadgetsaredesignedtoassistyouinvariousstepsofthesewingprocess.Beforeusinganewproduct,readthemanufacturer’sinstructionscarefully.Learnwhatspecialhandlingorcareisrequired,andforwhatfabricsorsewingtechniquesitisespeciallysuited.Herearesomespecializedproductsthatyoumayfindhelpfulinsewingyourclothes,accessories,orhomedécoritems.

ACuttingboardsprotecttablefinishesfromscratches.Availableincardboard,plastic,orpaddedstyles,theseboardsalsoholdfabricmoresecurelywhilecutting.Squareofffabricusingthemarkedlines,andusethe1"(2.5cm)squaresasaninstantmeasure.

BElasticscanbepurchasedinavarietyofwidthsandstyles,eitherinprecutlengthsorbytheyard(meter).Softerelastics(a)aresuitableforpajamasorboxershorts;nonrollelastic(b)staysflatinthecasing;somewideelastichaschannelsfortopstitching(c).

CInterfacingplaysasupportingroleinalmosteverygarment.Itisaninnerlayeroffabric,usedtostabilizethefabricinareaslikenecklinesandwaistbands,orgivesupportbehindbuttonsandbuttonholes.Interfacingsmaybewoven,non-woven,orknit;theeasiestformstouseareheatfusibleandtheseshouldcomewithinstructions.

DAbodkinisusedtothreadelasticorcordingthroughacasing.Oneendholdstheelastictightlywhileyoufeedthetoolthroughthenarrowcasing,pullingtheelasticorcordingbehindit.

EPointturnerishelpfulforperfectingcorners,suchasatthetopofapocketorattheendsofawaistband,orinsideapillowcover.Slipthetoolinsidetheitem,andgentlypokethefabricoutintoapoint.

FLiquidfraypreventerisacolorlessplasticliquidthatpreventsfrayingbystiffeningthefabricslightly.Itishelpfulwhenyouhaveclippedtoofarintoaseamallowanceorwanttoreinforceabuttonhole.Itmaydiscolorsomefabrics,sotestbeforeusing,andapplycarefully.Theliquidmayberemovedwithrubbingalcohol.Itdriestoapermanentfinishthatwillwithstandlaunderinganddrycleaning.

GGluestickisaconvenientsubstituteforpinningorbastingwhenyouneedtoholdaniteminplacetemporarilybeforestitching.Thetemporaryadhesiveinaretractabletubecanbeappliedinsmalldots.Itwon’tdiscolorthefabricandwashesoutcompletely,ifnecessary.Itwillnotharmyourmachineorgumupyourneedleasyoustitchthroughit.

HButtonholecutterisahandytoolformakingprecisioncutsdownthecenterofbuttonholes.Itcomeswithawoodenblocktoplaceunderthefabrictoprotectyourworksurfaceandacceptthesharpthinbladeofthecutter.Whilebuttonholescanbecutopenwithsmallscissorsoraseamripper,abuttonholecutterismoreaccurateandlesslikelytocutthestitches.

IBastingtapeisdouble-facedadhesivetapeusedinsteadofpinningorbasting.Itisespeciallyhelpfulformatchingprints,applyingzippers,andpositioningtrims.Somemanufacturersadvisethatyouavoidstitchingthroughthetapebecausetheadhesivemaycollectonyourneedle.

JSingle-foldbiastapeisusefulforhemmingcurvededges,suchasaroundtablecloth.Themanufacturerhasalreadycutthebiasstrips,sewnthemtogether,andpressedinprecisefoldstomakeyoursewingeasier.Thetapeisavailableinpackagedlengthsinawiderangesofcolors.

KPaper-backedfusiblewebissoldonrolls,invariousnarrowwidths.Itisalsoavailableasawidesheetrolledonaboltforpurchasebytheyard(meter).Itisatime-savingproductusedforadheringtwopiecesoffabrictogether.Forinstance,youmayusenarrowstripsofittosecurethesidehemsofaRomanshadeinsteadofstitchingthem.Aprotectivepaperbackingisremovedfromonesideaftertheothersidehasbeenfusedtothefabric.

LBlanketbindingresemblesawidesatinribbonthathasbeenpressedinhalfforencasingtherawedgearoundablanket.Packagedinaconvenientlengthforsewingbabyblankets,thebindingisavailableinassortedsoftcolorsandwhite.Becauseofitsstabilityandpermanentcrease,itiseasytoworkwith,yetfeelssilkysmoothagainstababy’sskin.

fabricinformation

Selectingtherightfabricsforyourprojectsmayseemlikeanoverwhelmingtask,butthereareafewsimpleguidelinestohelpnarrowthefield.Onegoodwaytolearnaboutfabricsistobrowsethroughafabricstore,handlingthefabricsandreadingthefibercontentinformationandcareinstructionsprintedontheendsofthebolts.Youmayalreadyknowwhetheryouwantasolidcolor,aprintedpattern,orperhapsamulticoloredfabric.Doyouneedafabricthatcanbelaunderedfrequently?Doyouwantsmoothortextured,stiffordrapable,lightweightorheavy?Somebasicfabricknowledgeandathought-outplanwillhelpyoumakewisechoicesandavoidcostlyerrors.

FIBERCONTENTNaturalfabricsaremadefromplantoranimalfibers,spunintoyarns:cotton,wool,silk,andlinenaremostcommon.Naturalsareoftenconsideredtheeasiestfabricstosew.Syntheticfabrics,madefromchemicallyproducedfibers,includenylon,acrylic,acetate,andpolyester.Rayonisaman-madefibermadefromaplantsource.Eachfiberhasuniquecharacteristics,desirablefordifferentreasons.Manyfabricsareablendofnaturalandsyntheticfibers,offeringyouthebestqualitiesofeach,suchasthebreathablecomfortofcottonblendedwiththewrinkleresistanceofpolyester.

WOVENFABRICSWovenfabricshavestraightlengthwiseandcrosswiseyarns.Thepatterninwhichtheyarnsarewovengivesthefabricitscharacteristicsurfacetextureandappearance.Theouteredgesofwovenfabricsarecalledselvages.Asageneralrule,theyshouldbetrimmedawaybecausetheyareoftenheavierthantherestofthefabric,andtheymayshrinkwhenlaunderedorpressed.Grainlinesarethedirectionsinwhichthefabricyarnsrun.Strong,stablelengthwiseyarns,runningparalleltotheselvages,formthelengthwisegrain.Thecrosswisegrainisperpendiculartothelengthwisegrainandhasasmallamountofgive.Anydiagonaldirection,calledthebias,hasafairamountofstretch.

KNITFABRICSKnitfabricsconsistofrowsofinterlockingloopsofyarn,asinahand-knitsweater,butusuallyonafinerscale.Knitfabricsaremoreflexiblethanotherfabrics,andtheyallstretch.Thesefeaturesmeanthatgarmentsmadeofknitsrequirelessfittingandoffermorefreedomofmovement.Whensewingwithknits,selectpatternsthatarespecificallydesignedforknitfabrics.

knitfabricismadefrominterlockingloopedstitches.Thelengthwiserowsofstitchesarecalledribs;thecrosswiserowsarecalledcourses.Theseribsandcoursescorrespondtothelengthwiseandcrosswisegrainsofwovenfabrics.

Patternsdesignedforknitfabricshaveastretchgauge.Foldoverthefabricalongacrosswisecourseseveralinches(centimeters)fromacutend,andtestits

degreeofstretchagainstthegauge.Ifthefabricstretchesthenecessaryamountwithoutdistortion,itissuitableforthepattern.

FABRICSHOPPINGFabricsinastorearedividedintofashionfabricsanddecoratorfabrics.Decoratorfabricsaregenerallymoredurablethanfashionfabrics;mosthavestain-resistantfinishes.Theyaredesignedforpillows,slipcovers,windowtreatments,andotherhomedecoratingprojects.Theyaremanufacturedinwidths(crosswisegrain)of48"or54"(122or137cm),thoughoccasionallyyoumayfindsomewider.Topreventcreases,decoratorfabricsarerolledontubes.

Fashionfabricsareusuallyfoldeddoubleandrolledoncardboardbolts.Theyvaryinwidth;themostcommonare36",45",and60"(91.5,115,and152.5cm).Thoughfashionfabricsareintendedforapparel,manyofthemarealsosuitableforhomedecorating.Moststoresarrangetheirfashionfabricsaccordingtothefibercontentorfabricstyle.Forexample,allthewoolsandwoolblends,suitable

forskirts,slacks,andjackets,maybefoundtogetherinoneareaofthestore;allthebridalandspecial-occasionfabricslocatedinanotherarea;quiltingfabrics(lightweightcottons)inanother.Thisisnotahard-and-fastrule,however,soyouwillwanttospendtimegettingacquaintedwiththefabricstoresyoushop.

FABRICPREPARATIONPreshrinkwashablefabricbeforecuttingouttheproject,bywashinganddryingitinthesamewayyouwillcareforthefinisheditem.Becausemostdecoratorfabricsarenotwashableandrequiredrycleaningwhennecessary,preshrinkthembypressingwithsteam,movingtheironevenlyalongthegrainlines.Allowthefabrictodrybeforemovingit.

selectingapattern

Majorpatterncompaniesfollowauniformsizingbasedonstandardbodymeasurements.Thisisnotexactlythesameasready-to-wearsizing.

DETERMININGSIZEToselecttherightpatternsize,firsttakeyourstandardbodymeasurements.Wearyourusualundergarmentsanduseatapemeasurethatdoesn’tstretch.Itmaybeeasiertohaveanotherpersonmeasureyou.Recordyourmeasurementsandcomparethemwiththesizechartonthebackofthepatternorinthepatternbook.

TAKINGSTANDARDBODYMEASUREMENTS

1Waistline.Tieastringorpieceofelasticaroundyourmiddle,andallowittorolltoyournaturalwaistline.Measureatthisexactlocationwithatapemeasure.Leavethestringinplaceasareferenceformeasuringyourhipsandbackwaist

length.

2Hips.Measurearoundthefullestpartofyourhips.Thisisusually7"to9"(18to23cm)belowthewaistline,dependingonyourheight.

3Bust.Placethetapemeasureunderyourarms,acrossthewidestpartofthebackandthefullestpartofthebustline.

4Backwaistlength.Measurefromthemiddleofthemostprominentboneatthebaseoftheneckdowntothewaistlinestring.

PATTERNSELECTIONSelectingapatternforagarmentallowsformorecreativitythanshoppingfromaready-to-wearcatalog.Patterncatalogsdon’tlimityoutocertainfabric,colors,skirtlengths,ortypesoftrimsshownonthepages.Youarefreetochooseacombinationoffeaturesthatbestreflectyourstyleandaremostflatteringtoyou.

Majorpatterncompaniespublishnewcatalogswitheachseason,whichmeansthatdesignertrendsseeninclothingstoresarereflectedinthenewestpatterncatalogsalongwithmoreclassicstyles.You’llfindsimplepatternsforsewerswhopreferthequickandeasystyles,andmoredetailedpatternsforexperiencedsewers.Thenumberofpatternpieceslistedonthebackofthepatternwillprovideacluetothecomplexityofthepattern.Thefewerpieces,theeasiertheproject.Also,thepatternmayindicatewhetheritisintendedforknitsonly.

Patterncatalogsareusuallydividedintocategoriesbygarmenttypesand

markedbyindextabs.Thenewestfashionsoftenappearinthefirstfewpagesofeachcategory.Patternillustrationsareaccompaniedbyinformationonrecommendedfabricsandyardagerequirements.Anindexatthebackofthecataloglistspatternsinnumericalorderalongwiththeirpagenumbers.Thebackofthecatalogalsoincludesacompletesizechartforeveryfiguretype.

allaboutpatterns

Thepatternenvelopeisasellingtoolandaneducationaldevice.Thefrontgenerallyhasaphotographofthefinishedgarmentandseveraldrawingsofthevariationsthatcanbesewnusingthepattern.Onthepatternback,you’llfinddetailedinformationtohelpyouselectfabricandallthenotionsnecessarytocompleteyourproject.

THEENVELOPEFRONT

THEENVELOPEBACKFabricamountsrequiredforeachviewinalltheavailablesizesarelistedinachart.Locatethestyleviewandthefabricwidthattheleft;matchitwithyoursizeatthetop.Thenumberwherethetwocolumnsmeetistheamountoffabricyouneedtobuy.Interfacingandelasticrequirementsarealsolisted.Metricequivalentsaregiveninaseparatechart.

insidethepattern

Evenifyouloveagoodpuzzle,yourfirstpeekatthepatterninnardscanbescary.Here’swhattoexpect.

PATTERNFEATURES

patternlayout

Allpatterncompaniesuseauniversalsystemofsymbolsontheirpatternpieces.Thesesymbolshelpyoulayoutthepattern,showyouwheretocut,helpyoumatchupseamlines,showyouwheretosew,andgiveplacementguidesforthingslikebuttons,buttonholes,andhems.Alongwiththesymbols,youwillalsofindessentialinstructionsprintedonthepatternpieces.

PatternLayoutcontinued

Preparealargeworkarea,suchasadiningroomtablecoveredwithacuttingboard(page19).Assembleallthepatternpiecesyouwillbeneeding,andpressoutanywrinkleswithawarm,dryiron.

Locateandcirclethecorrectcuttinglayoutdiagram(page31)onyourpatternguidesheet.Thesediagramsusuallyshowyoutheeasiest,mostefficientwaytolayoutyourpattern.Somefabricshaveanap,meaningtheyhavedefiniteupanddowndirections.Forthesefabrics,patternpiecesmustallbelaidoutinthesamedirection.

Foldthefabricinhalf,lengthwise.Smoothitoutontheworksurface,sothattheselvagesalignandthecrosswisegrainisperpendiculartothem.Arrange

thepatternpiecesasindicatedinthelayoutdiagram.Whitepatternshapesindicatethepieceistobeplacedwiththeprintedsideup.Shadedpiecesaretobeplacedwiththeprintedsidedown.Besuretofollowanyotherincidentaldirectionsthatpertaintoyourlayout.Afterallthepiecesareinplace,pinthemtothefabric.Donotbegincuttinguntilallthepatternpiecesareinplace.

PINNING

1First,positionthepatternpiecesthataretobecutonthefold.Placeeachonedirectlyonthefoldededgeofthefabric.Pinthecornersdiagonally.Thencontinuepinningneartheouteredge,placingthepinsparalleltothecuttingline.Spacethepinsabout3"(7.5cm)apart;closertogetheroncurves.

2Placethestraight-grainpatternpiecesonthefabric,withthegrainlinearrowparalleltotheselvagesonwovenfabricsorparalleltotheribsonknits.Measurefromeachendofthearrowtotheselvage,shiftingthepatternuntilthedistancesareequal.Pinbothendsofthegrainlinesothepatternwillnotshift.Thenpintheouteredges.

tellmemoreFOLDTHEFABRICINHALF,LENGTHWISE.Whenyourfabricisfoldedlikethis,youwillendupwithmirror-imagepiecesfortheleftandright

sidesofthegarment.Patterndirectionsusuallysuggestfoldingrightsidestogether.Sometimesthereareadvantagestofoldingwrongsidestogether,suchashavingabetterviewofthefabricdesignoreaseinmarking.Eitherwaywillwork.

cuttingandmarking

Don’tbeintimidated!Locatethecorrectcuttinglines,andcutwithconfidence.Transferthenecessarymarks,andyou’llbereadytosew!

CUTTINGAccuracyisimportant,sincemistakesmadeincuttingcannotalwaysbecorrected.Beforecutting,double-checktheplacementofthepatternpieces.

AUsingbent-handledshears,cutwithlong,firmstrokes,cuttingdirectlyonthecuttingline.Takeshorterstrokesaroundcurves.Ifyouareusingamultisizepattern,besurethatyoufollowthecorrectcuttinglineallthetime.

BNotchescanbecutoutward,especiallyifthefabricislooselywovenorifthepatterncallsfor1/4"(6mm)seamallowances.Cutmultiplenotchesasoneunit,notseparately.Or,youcancutdirectlythroughthenotches,andthenmarkthemwithshortsnipsintotheseamallowances.

CIfyouprefertousearotarycutterandmat,besuretokeepthematundertheareabeingcut.Usesteady,evenpressure,and,aboveall,keepfingersandsmallchildrenawayfromtherotarycutter.

MARKINGKeepthepatternpiecespinnedinplaceaftercutting.Transferpatternsymbolstotheappropriatesideofthefabric,usingoneofthefollowingmethods.

APinsareaquickwaytotransfermarks.Sincetheymayfallouteasily,usepinmarksonlywhenyouintendtosewimmediately.Or,pin-markfirst,removethepattern,andmarkagain,usingchalkorerasablefabricmarker.

BErasablefabricmarkersarefelt-tippensdesignedspecificallyforsewingneeds.Air-erasablemarksdisappearwithin48hours.Water-erasablemarksdisappearwithaspritzofwater.

CChalkisavailableinpencilformorasapowderinarollingwheeldispenser.

DSnipsarehandyformarkingthingslikedotsatshoulderseams.Makeshallowsnipsintotheseamallowancesatthedotlocations.

gettingreadytosew

Simpletasksofinsertingtheneedle,windingthebobbin,andthreadingthemachinehavetremendousinfluenceonthestitchqualityandperformanceofyourmachine.Usethisguideasageneralreference,butrefertoyourowner’smanualforinstructionsspecifictoyourmachine.

INSERTINGTHENEEDLELoosentheneedleclamp.Afterselectingtheappropriateneedleforyourproject(page12),insertitintothemachineashighasitwillgo.Thegroovedsideoftheneedlefacesforward,ifyourbobbingetsinsertedfromthefrontortop;itfacestotheleft,ifyourbobbingetsinsertedontheleft.Tightentheclampsecurely.

WINDINGTHEBOBBINIfthebobbincaseisbuiltin,thebobbiniswoundinplacewiththemachinefullythreadedasiftosew(page40).

Removablebobbinsarewoundonthetoporsideofthemachine,withthemachinethreadedforbobbinwinding,asdescribedinyourowner’smanual.

Bobbinthreadmustbedrawnthroughthebobbincasetensionspring.Forwind-in-placebobbins,thishappensautomaticallywhenyouwindthebobbin,butyoumustdoitmanuallywhenyouinsertabobbinthatalreadyhasthreadonit.

Afterinsertingthebobbinandthreadingthemachine(page40),youneedtodrawthebobbinthreadtothetop.Holdtheneedlethreadwhileturningthehandwheeltowardyouonefullturn.Astheneedlegoesdown,thetopthreadinterlockswiththebobbinthreadandbringsitupthroughtheneedlehole.Pullboththreadstogetherunderthepresserfootandofftothesideorback.

THREADINGTHEMACHINEBecauseeverysewingmachineisdifferent,thethreadingprocedureforyourmachinemaydifferslightlyfromtheoneshownhere.Onceagain,itisimportanttorefertoyourowner’smanual.Everyupperthreadguideaddsalittletensiontothethreadasitwindsitswaytotheneedle.Missingoneofthemcanmakeabigdifferenceinthequalityofyourstitches.

1Setthethreadspoolonthespindle.Foraverticalspindle,positionthespoolsothatitwillturnclockwiseasyousew.Ifthespindleishorizontal,thespoolisheldinplacewithanendcap.Ifyourspoolhasasmallcutinoneendformindingthethread,positionthespoolwiththatendtotheright.

TIPIfthespoolisnewandhaspaperlabelscoveringtheholes,pokethemin,completelyuncoveringtheholes,toallowthespooltoturnfreely.Unlessyourmachinehasaself-windingbobbin,youwillwantto

windthebobbin(page38)beforethreadingthemachine.

2Pullthreadtotheleftandthroughthefirstthreadguide.

3Drawthreadthroughthetensionguide.

4Drawthreadthroughthenextthreadguide.

5Insertthreadthroughtheholeorslotintake-uplever.

6Drawthethreadthroughtheremainingthreadguides.

7Threadtheneedle.Mostneedlesarethreadedfromfronttoback;some,fromsidetoside.

8Holdingtheneedlethread,turnthehandwheeltowardyouonefullrotation.Theneedlethreadwillengagethebobbinthread.Whenyoutugontheneedlethread,thebobbinthreadshouldcomeupthroughtheholeintheneedleplate.

TIPItisveryimportanttohavethepresserfootleverupwhenthreadingthemachinebecausethetensiondiscsarethenopen.Ifthepresserfootisdownandthediscsareclosed,thethreadwillnotslidebetweenthediscs,andyourstitcheswillnotformproperly.

sewingaseam

Littlefrustrations,suchasthreadjams,erraticstitchinglines,orhavingthethreadpulloutoftheneedleatthestartofaseam,canoftenbepreventedorcorrectedbyfollowingthesebasicguidelines.

HOWTOSEWASEAM

1Threadyourmachine(page40)andinsertthebobbin(page12).Holdingtheneedlethreadwithyourlefthand,turnthehandwheeltowardyouuntiltheneedlehasgonedownandcomebackuptoitshighestpoint.Youwillfeelatugontheneedlethread.Pullontheneedlethreadtobringthebobbinthreadupthroughtheholeinthethroatplate.Pullboththreadstogetherunderthepresserfootandofftooneside.

2Cutrectanglesoffabric.Placethepiecesrightsidestogether,aligningtheouteredges.Pinthepiecestogetheralongonelongedge,insertingthepinsaboutevery2"(5cm),perpendiculartotheedge.Placethefabricunderthepresserfootsothepinnedsideedgesaligntothe1/2"(1.3cm)seamallowanceguideandtheupperedgesaligntothebackofthepresserfoot.Lowerthepresserfoot,andsetyourstitchlengthat2.5mm,whichequals10stitchesperinch.

3Backstitchseveralstitchestotheupperedgeofthefabric.Holdthethreadtailsunderafingerforthefirstfewstitches.Thispreventstheneedlethreadfrombeingpulledoutoftheneedleandalsopreventsthethreadtailsfrombeingdrawndownintothebobbincase,wheretheycouldpotentiallycauseathreadjam.

4Stitchforwardoverthebackstitchedline,andcontinuesewingthe1/2"(1.3cm)seam.Gentlyguidethefabricwhileyousewbywalkingyourfingersaheadofandslightlytothesidesofthepresserfoot.Remember,youareonlyguiding;letthemachinepullthefabric.

5Stopstitchingandremovepinsasyoucometothem.Whenyoureachtheendofthefabric,stopstitching;backstitchseveralstitches,andstopagain.Turnthehandwheeltowardyouuntiltheneedleisinitshighestposition.

6Raisethepresserfoot.Pullthefabricsmoothlyawayfromthepresserfoot,eithertotheleftsideorstraightback.Ifyouhavetotugthethreads,turnyourhandwheelslightlytowardyouuntiltheypulleasily.Cutthethreads,leavingtails21/2"to3"(6.5to7.5cm)long.

tellmemoreINSERTINGTHEPINSPERPENDICULARTOTHEEDGE.Thismakesitmucheasiertoremovethemasyousew.Thepinheadsareneartherawedge

whereyoucaneasilygraspthemwithyourrighthand.Inthisposition,youaremuchlesslikelytostickyourselfwithapinasyousew.

REMOVEPINSASYOUCOMETOTHEM.Astemptingasitmaybe,don’tsewoverpins!Youmaybeluckyandsaveafewseconds,oryoucouldhitapinandbreakyourneedle,costingyoumuchmoretimeinthelongrun.

howtobalancetension

Yourmachineformsstitchesbyinterlockingthebobbinthreadwiththeneedlethread.Everytimetheneedlegoesdownintothefabric,asharphookcatchestheneedlethreadandwrapsthebobbinthreadaroundit.Imaginethislittletug-of-war.Iftheneedlethreadtensionis“stronger”thanthebobbinthreadtension,theneedlethreadpullsthebobbinthreadthroughtothetop.Ifthebobbinthreadtensionis“stronger,”itpullstheneedlethreadthroughtothebottom.Whenthetensionsareevenlybalanced,thestitchwilllockexactlyhalfwaybetweenthetopandbottomofthelayersbeingsewn,whichisrightwhereyouwantit.

Somemachineshave“self-adjustingtension,”meaningthemachineautomaticallyadjustsitstensionwitheveryfabricyousew.Formachinesthatdonothavethisfeature,youmayhavetoadjusttheneedlethreadtensionslightlyasyousewdifferentfabrics.

1Threadyourmachineandinsertthebobbin,usingtwoverydifferentcolorsofthread,neitherofwhichmatchesthefabric.Cutan8”(20.5cm)squareofasmooth,mediumweightfabric.Foldthefabricinhalfdiagonally,andplaceitunderthepresserfootsothefoldalignstoyour1/2"(1.3cm)seamguide.Lowerthepresserfootandsetyourstitchlengthattenstitchesperinchor2.5mmlong.

2Stitchalineacrossthefabric,stitching1/2"(1.3cm)fromthediagonalfold.Removethefabricfromthemachine.Inspectyourstitchinglinefrombothsides.Ifyourtensionisevenlybalanced,youwillseeonlyonecoloroneachside.Ifyouseeboththreadcolorsonthetopsideofyoursample,theneedletensionistighterthanthebobbintension.Ifyouseeboththreadcolorsonthebacksideofyoursample,thebobbintensionistighterthantheneedletension.

3Pullonyourstitchinglineuntilyouhearthreadsbreak.(Becauseyoustitchedonthebias,thefabricwillstretchslightly.)Ifthethreadbreaksononlyoneside,yourmachine’stensionistighteronthatside.

Toptensiontootight

Toptensiontooloose

Tensioneven

ADJUSTINGTHETENSIONBeforeadjustingthetensiononyourmachine,firstcheck:

thatyourmachineisproperlythreaded(page40)thatyourbobbinisproperlyinstalledthatyourneedleisnotdamagedandisinsertedcorrectly

Aftercheckingthesethreethings,youmayneedtoadjustthetensiononyourmachine.(Checkyourowner’smanual.)Tightenorloosentheneedlethreadtensionslightlytobringtheneedlethreadandbobbinthreadtensionsintobalance.Testthestitchesaftereachadjustment,untilyouachievebalancedtension.Ifslightadjustmentsoftheneedletensiondialdonotsolvetheproblem,thebobbintensionmayneedadjusting.However,mostmanufacturersdonotrecommendthatyouadjustbobbintensionyourself,sounlessyouhavereceivedinstructionsforadjustingthebobbintensiononyourmachine,takeyourmachineinforrepair.

SEAMFINISHES

AStitchedandpinkedfinish.Stitch1/4"(6mm)fromeachseamallowanceedge,usingastraightstitchsetat12stitchesperinch,whichequals2mm.Trimclosetothestitching,usingpinkingshears(page17).Thisfinishissuitableforfinelywovenfabricsthatdonotraveleasily.

BZigzagfinish.Setthezigzagstitchonornearmaximumwidthandalengthof10stitchesperinch,whichequals2.5mm.Stitchclosetotheedgeofeachseamallowancesothattherighthandstitchesgojustovertheedge.Ifthefabricpuckers,tryanarrowerzigzagwidth.

CMultistitch-zigzagfinish.Ifyourmachinehasthisstitch,checkyourowner’smanualfordirectionsonselectingthesettings.Stitchnear,butnotovertheedgeof,eachseamallowance.

DTurnandzigzagfinish.Setthezigzagstitchnearmaximumwidthatalengthof10stitchesperinch,whichequals2.5mm.Turnundertheseamallowanceedge1/8"to1/4"(3to6mm).Stitchclosetothefoldededgesothattherighthandstitchesgojustonoroverthefold.Usethisfinishonlooselywovenfabrics,especiallyongarments,suchasjackets,wheretheinsidemaybevisibleoccasionally.

TIPStraightstitchinglinesareeasiertoachieveifyouwatchtheedgeofthefabricalongtheseamguideandignoretheneedle.Sewsmoothlyatarelaxingpace,withminimalstartingandstopping,andwithoutburstsofspeed.Youhavebettercontrolofthespeedifyouoperateyourfootcontrolwithyourheelrestingonthefloor.

SPECIALSEAMSAsidefromthestandardstraight-stitchseam,yourmachineisprobablycapableofsewingseveralotherstitchesthatareappropriateforvariousfabricsand

situations.Wheneveryousewwithknits,forexample,youwantaseamthatwillstretchwiththefabric.Topreventravelingofwovenfabrics,seamallowanceedgesmustbefinished.Thereareseveralfinishingmethodstochoosefrom,dependingonthefabricandthecapabilitiesofyourmachine.Thesegeneralguidelineswillhelpyoudecidewhentousethesestitchesandfinishingmethods.Yourowner’smanualisthebestsourceofspecificinformationforyourmachine.

STRETCHSEAMS

Double-stitchedseam(A).Stitchontheseamline,usingastraightstitchsetatalengthof12stitchesperinch,whichequals2mmlong.Stretchthefabricslightlyasyousew,toallowthefinishedseamtostretchthatmuch.Stitchagain1/8"(3mm)intotheseamallowance.Trimtheseamallowanceclosetothesecondstitchingline.Thisseamisappropriateforfabricswithminimalstretchorforseamssewnintheverticaldirectiononmoderatestretchknits.

Narrowzigzagseam(B).Stitchontheseamline,usingaverynarrowzigzagstitchsetat12stitchesperinch,whichequals2mmlong.Ifthefabricisverystretchyinthedirectionyouaresewing,youmayalsostretchthefabricslightlyasyousew.Trimtheseamallowanceto1/4"(6mm),ifnecessary.Setthezigzagwider,andstitchtheseamallowanceedgestogether.Thisseamisappropriateforverystretchyknits.

Built-instretchstitch(c).Differingfrombrandtobrand,thesestitchesaredesignedtoincorporatestretch,sothatyoudonotneedtostretchthefabricasyousew.Somestitchstyles,likethebottomtwosamples,areapatternofzigzagandstraightstitchesthatstitchandfinishtheseaminonepass.Checkyourmanualforstitchsettings.

TIPThecutedgesofknitfabricsdonotravel,buttheyoftencurl.Tominimizethisproblem,theseamallowancesareusuallyfinishedtogetherandpressedtooneside.

handstitches

Whilemodernsewersrelyonsewingmachinesforspeedyconstruction,therearesituationswhenhandstitchingisnecessaryorpreferable.Youmayneedtoslipstitchanopeningclosedtofinishapillow,orperhapsyoulikethelookofahand-stitchedblindhemonaskirt.Ofcourseyou’llalsoneedtosewonbuttons.

THREADINGTHENEEDLEInsertthethreadendthroughtheneedle’seye,forsewingwithasinglestrand.Orfoldthethreadinhalf,andinsertthefoldthroughtheeye,forsewingwithadoublestrand.Pullthroughabout8"(20.5cm).Wraptheotherend(s)aroundyourindexfinger.Then,usingyourthumb,rollthethreadoffyourfinger,twistingitintoaknot.

TIPUseasinglestrandwhenslipstitchingorhemming.Useadoublestrandwhensewingonbuttons.Toavoidtangles,beginwiththreadnolongerthan18"(46cm)fromtheneedletotheknot.Runthethreadthroughbeeswax(page15),ifdesired.

SLIPSTITCHING

1Insertthethreadedneedlebetweentheseamallowanceandthegarment,justbehindtheopening.Bringittotheoutsideintheseamline.Ifyouarerighthanded,workfromrighttoleft;leftiesworkfromlefttoright.

2Inserttheneedleintothefoldjustbehindwherethethreadcameup,andrunitinsidethefoldforabout1/4"(6mm).Bringtheneedleout,anddrawthethreadsnug.Takeyournextstitchintheoppositefold,insertingtheneedledirectlyacrossfromthepreviousstitch.

3Continue,crossingfromonefoldtotheother,untilyouhavesewnpasttheopening.Securethethreadwithseveraltinystitchesintheseamline.Thentakealongstitch,andpullittight.Clipthethreadatthesurface,andletthetaildisappearinside.

SEWINGONASEW-THROUGHBUTTON

1Placethebuttononthemark,withtheholesliningupparalleltothebuttonhole.Bringtheneedlethroughthefabricfromtheundersideandupthroughoneholeinthebutton.Inserttheneedleintoanotherholeandthroughthefabriclayers.

2Slipatoothpick,match,orsewingmachineneedlebetweenthethreadandthebuttontoformashank.Takethreeorfourstitchesthrougheachpairofholes.Bringtheneedleandthreadtotherightsideunderthebutton.Removethetoothpick.

3Windthethreadtwoorthreetimesaroundthebuttonstitchestoformtheshank.Securethethreadontherightsideunderthebutton,bymakingaknotortakingseveralsmallstitches.Clipthethreadsclosetotheknot.

SEWINGONASHANKBUTTON

1Placethebuttononthemark,withtheshankholeparalleltothebuttonhole.Securethethreadontherightsideofthegarmentwithasmallstitchunderthebutton.

2Bringtheneedlethroughtheshankhole.Inserttheneedledownthroughthefabricandpullthethreadthrough.Takefourtosixstitchesinthismanner.

3Securethethreadinthefabricunderthebuttonbymakingaknotorbytakingseveralsmallstitches.Clipthethreadends.

hems

Thereareanumberofwaystohemtheloweredgesofskirts,pants,jackets,andshirts.Somehemsaresewnbymachine;othersbyhand.Themethodyouchoosewilldependonthefabric,thegarmentstyle,andyourownpreference.Formethodsthatdonotinvolveturningundertherawedge,finishtheedge(page46)inanappropriatemanner,beforehemming.

HANDHEMS

ABlindstitch.Foldbackthefinishededgeofthehem1/4"(6mm).Takeasmallstitchtoanchorthethreadinaseamallowance.Workwiththeneedlepointinginthedirectionyouaregoing.Takeaverysmallhorizontalstitchinthegarment,

catchingonlyoneortwothreads.Takethenextstitchinthehem,1/4"to1/2"(6mmto1.3cm)awayfromthefirststitch.Continuealternatingstitches;donotpulltootightly.

BBlindcatchstitch.Foldbackthefinishededgeofthehem1/4"(6mm).Takeasmallstitchtoanchorthethreadinaseamallowance.Workwiththeneedlepointinginthedirectionoppositefromthewayyouaregoing.Takeaverysmallhorizontalstitchinthegarment,catchingonlyoneortwothreads.Takethenextstitchinthehem,1/4"to1/2"(6mmto1.3cm)awayfromthefirststitch,crossingthestitches.Continuealternatingthestitchesinazigzagpattern.

CSlipstitch.Foldundertherawedge1/4"(6mm),andpress.Takeasmallstitchtoanchorthethreadinaseamallowance.Workwiththeneedlepointinginthedirectionyouaregoing.Followthedirectionsforslipstitchingonpage49,catchingonlyoneortwothreadswitheachstitchthatgoesintothegarment.

MACHINEHEMS

AMachineblindstitch.Followyourmanualforadjustingthestitchsettings,andusetheappropriatepresserfoot.Testthestitchonascrapofthegarmentfabricuntilyouarehappywiththeresults.(A)Placethehemallowancefacedownonthemachinebed,withthebulkofthegarmentfoldedback.Allowabout1/4"(6mm)ofthehemedgetoextendunderthepresserfoot,aligningthesoftfoldtorestagainsttheguideinthefoot.Stitchalongthehem,closetothefold,catchingonlyoneortwothreadsofthegarmentwitheachleft-handstitchoftheneedle.

BWhencomplete,openoutthehem,andpressitflat.

CDouble-foldhem.Thismethodresultsinoneortworowsofstraightstitchesshowingontherightside.Turnunderadouble-foldhem.Thenstitchalongthe

innerfoldandrepeatattheouterfold,ifdesired.Thismethodismostsuccessfulonstraightedgeswherethereisnoexcessfullnesstoeasein.

DDouble-needlehem.Stitchedfromtherightsideofthefabric,thishemissuitableforknitgarments,becauseitwillstretchslightly.Thefartheraparttheneedlesarespaced,themorestretchthehemwillhave.However,widelyspacedneedleswillusuallyproducearidgebetweenthestitchinglines.Usingtwothreadspoolsontop,threadbothneedles.Placetapeonthebedofthemachineasastitchingguide.

cuttingdecoratorfabrics

Cuttingintoanewpieceoffabricmayseemalittlescary,consideringtheinvestmentyouhavejustmade.Hereareafewguidelinesforaccuratecuttingthatshouldboostyourconfidence.

Afterpreshrinking,straightenthecutendsofthefabric,usingoneofthethreemethodsopposite.Thenmarktheothercuttinglines,usingthestraightenededgeasaguide.Beforecuttingfull-widthpiecesoffabricforlargehomedécorprojects,suchastablecloths,duvetcovers,orRomanshades,pin-marktheplacementofeachcutalongtheselvage.Markoutpiecesforsmallerprojects,likedecoratorpillowsornapkins,withchalk.Double-checkyourmeasurementsandinspectthefabricforflaws.Onceyouhavecutintothefabric,youcannotreturnit.Toensurethatlargedécoritemswillhangorlaystraight,thefabriclengthsmustbecuton-grain.Thismeansthatthecutsaremadealongtheexactcrosswisegrainofthefabric.Patterneddecoratorfabricsarecutfollowingthepatternrepeatratherthanthegrainlinesotheymustbeprintedon-grain.

AFortightlywovenfabricswithoutamatchablepattern,markstraightcutsonthecrosswisegrain,usingacarpenter’ssquare.Alignoneedgetoaselvageandmarkalongtheperpendicularside.

BForlooselywovenfabrics,suchaslinentableclothfabric,pulloutayarnalongthecrosswisegrain,fromselvagetoselvage.Cutalongthelineleftbythemissingyarn.

CFortightlywovenpatterneddecoratorfabric,markbothselvagesattheexactsamepointinthepatternrepeat.Usingalongstraightedge,drawalineconnectingthetwopoints.Ifyouwillbestitchingtwoormorefullwidthsoffabrictogether,makeallthecutsatthesamelocationintherepeat.Thisusuallymeansthatyoucutthepieceslongerthannecessary,stitchthemtogether,andthentrimthemtothenecessarylength.

tellmemorePRINTEDON-GRAIN.Thismeansthepatternrepeatcoincidesexactlywiththecrosswisegrainofthefabric.Totestfabricbeforeyoubuy,placeit

onaflatsurfaceandfoldthecutedgeback,aligningtheselvagesonthesides.Creasethefoldwithyourfingers,thenunfoldthefabricandchecktoseeifthecreaserunsintotheselvageatexactlythesamepointinthepatternonbothsides.

Slightdifferencesoflessthan2"(5cm)canusuallybecorrectedbystretchingthefabricdiagonally.Avoidbuyingfabricthatisprintedmorethat2"(5cm)off-grain,asyouwillnotbeabletocorrectit,andthefinishedprojectwillnothangstraight.

matchingdesigns

Stitchingseamsindecoratorfabricsthathaveprinteddesignsorwoven-inpatternsrequiresafewextrastepstomakesurethepatternwillflowuninterruptedfromonefabricwidthtothenext.

1Placetwofabricwidthsrightsidestogether,aligningtheselvages.Foldbacktheupperselvageuntilthepatternmatches.Adjustthetoplayerslightlyupordownsothatthepatternlinesupexactly.Pressthefoldline.

2Unfoldthepressedselvage,andpinthefabricwidthstogether,insertingthepinsinandparalleltothefoldline.

3Turnthefabricover,andcheckthematchfromtherightside.Makeany

necessaryadjustments.

4Repinthefabricsothepinsareperpendiculartothefoldline.Stitchtheseamfollowingthefoldline;removepinsasyoucometothem(p.43).

5Checkthematchfromtherightsideagain.Makeanynecessaryadjustments.Trimawaytheselvages,cuttingtheseamallowancesto1/2"(1.3cm).

6Setthepatternselectortozigzagandyourstitchwidthandlengthtomedium.Finishtherawedgestogetherbyzigzaggingdownthelengthoftheseam.Presstheseamallowancestooneside.

7Trimtheentirefabricpaneltothenecessarycutlengthasdeterminedintheprojectinstructions.(Rememberyourinitialcutlengthforthepatternedfabricincludedextralengthtoaccommodatethepatternrepeat.)

tellmemoreZIGZAG.Thesewingmachineneedlemovesfromsidetosidewitheachstitch.Youcanadjustthewidthandlengthofthezigzag.Experiment

withdifferentsettingsonascrapoffabric.

FINISHTHERAWEDGESTOGETHER.Thispreventsthefabricfromraveling,whichisespeciallyimportantforhomedécoritemsthatarenotlined.

PROJECTS

Theeightprojectsinthissectionincludeeasyhomedécoritemsandbasicwardrobepieces.Ineachproject,youwilllearnafewnewsewingskills.Ifyouworkyourwaythroughtheprojectsinorder,yourskillsetwillbefairlycompletebythetimeyoufinishyourfirstunlinedjacket.Asyourepeattechniquesyou’velearnedinpreviousprojects,yourconfidencewillgrow.

Fourofthegarmentprojectsrequireacommercialpattern,solookforapatternthatcloselyresemblesthelinesanddetaillevelofthegarmentshown.Certainlyyoushouldreadthepatterninstructions,butusethebookinstructionsandphotographstohelpyousewyourgarment.Youdonotneedacommercialpatterntosewthetablecloth,pillow,babyblanket,orapron.

RECTANGULARTABLECLOTH

Asimplerectangulartableclothaddseleganceoraccentsyourcolorschemeandiseasilychangedforspecialoccasions,thechangingseasons,oryourmood!Theneatlymiteredcornerslookveryprofessional,yettheyaresurprisinglyeasytosew.Thistechniquecanbeusedforseveralotherhomedecoratingitems,suchasasquaretabletoppertoplaceoverafloor-lengthroundtablecloth,dinnernapkins,placemats,oratablerunner.

HOWTOSEWARECTANGULARTABLECLOTH

1Determinethedesiredfinishedsizeforyourtablecloth;add4”(10cm)tobothlengthandwidthforthehem.Cutarectangleoffabricequaltothesemeasurements,followingthecuttingguidelinesonpages54and55.

TIPSelectfabricthatiswideenoughforyourtableclothtobesewninonepiece:48"(122cm)fabricforafinishedwidthupto44"(112cm),54"(137cm)fabricforafinishedwidthupto50"(127cm),or60"(152.5cm)fabricforafinishedwidthupto56"(142cm).

MATERIALS

•Fabric,amountdeterminedinstep1•Thread•Fabricgluestick

SKILLS

•Sewdouble-foldhems•Useagluesticktohelpmakeperfectmiteredcorners

2Pressunder2"(5cm)onallfouredgesofthecloth.Unfoldthepressededgesandpresseachcornerdiagonallyatthepointwherethecreasesintersect.Trimoffthecornerdiagonallyatthepointswhereitcrossesthefoldlines.Useadotoffabricgluesticktoholdthecornerinplace.

3Turneachcutedgein,aligningittothefirstfoldline,andpresstheouterfold.

4Refoldonthefirstfoldline,encasingtherawedgetoforma1"(2.5cm)double-foldhem.Pintheheminplace,insertingpinsperpendiculartothefolds(p.19).Useadditionaldotsofgluesticktosecurethemiteredfoldsinthecorners.

5Edgestitchalongtheinnerfoldline.Atthecorners,stopwiththeneedledowninthefabricandpivot.Overlapthestitches1/2"(1.3cm)wheretheymeet.Pressthetablecloth.

TIPSupportthebulkofthefabrictoyourleftwithacardtableorothersurface,sothefabricfeedseasilyasyoustitch.Thiswillhelpyoumaintainanicestraightstitchingline.

tellmemoreEDGESTITCH.Stitchascloseaspossibletotheinneredgeofthehem.

Alignthepresserfootsothattheneedlewillenterthefabricjustinsidetheinneredge.Notethepointonthepresserfootthatalignstotheedgeofthehemitself.Asyousew,watchthefabricasitpassesunderthatpointonthefootratherthanwatchingtheneedle.Stitchslowlyforthebestcontrol.

KNIFE-EDGEPILLOWS

Theknife-edgepillowisprobablythemostversatilestylefordecoratingyourhome.Therearenolimitstothevariationsyoucancreate,notonlyinsize,color,andtexture,butalsoinaddeddetailsthatgiveyourpillowapersonaltouch.Thedirectionsthatfollowareforaknife-edgepillowthatis14"(35.5cm)square.Foryourfirstknife-edgepillow,werecommendafirmlywovenmediumweightfabric.

Ready-madeknife-edgepillowinsertscomeinawideselectionofsizes,including12",14",16",18",20",24",and30"(30.5,35.5,40.5,46,51,61,and76cm)squaresanda12"×16"(30.5×40.5cm)rectangle.Byadaptingthesecuttinginstructions,youcansewacoverforanysizepillowinsert.Youcanalsousetheseinstructionstosewyourownpillowinsertsinanysizeyoulike,stuffingthemtoaplumpnessthatpleasesyou.

HOWTOSEWAKNIFE-EDGEPILLOW

1Cuttwo15"(38cm)squaresoffabric,aligningthesidestothefabricgrainlines(page22).A1/2"(1.3cm)seamallowanceisneededoneachside,so1"(2.5cm)isaddedtoeachdimensionofthedesiredfinishedsize.

MATERIALS

•14"(35.5cm)squarepillowform•1/2yd.(0.5m)offabric

•Matchingthread•Hand-sewingneedle

SKILLS

•Backstitch•Setandpressseams•Sewperfectcorners•Slipstitchanopeningclosedbyhand

tellmemoreDESIREDFINISHEDSIZE.Tomakeaknife-edgepillowofadifferentsize,simplycutyourfabric1"(2.5cm)largerinbothdirectionsthanthe

desiredfinishdsizeofyourpillow.Cut17"(43cm)squaresfora16"(40.5cm)pillow;cut13"×19"(33×48.5cm)rectanglesfora12"×18"(30.5×46cm)pillow.

2Placethepillowfrontoverthepillowback,rightsidestogether,andalignallfouredges.Pinthelayerstogetherneartheouteredges,insertingthepinsperpendiculartotheedges(p.42).Inthecenterofoneside,leavea7"(18cm)openingunpinned.

3Placethefabricunderthepresserfoot,justaheadoftheopening.Alignthecutedgesofthefabrictothe1/2"(1.3cm)seamallowanceguideonthebedofyourmachine.Removethepinthatmarkstheopening,beforeloweringthepresserfoot.

4Backstitchthreeorfourstitches;stop.Then,stitchingforward,stitchtheseamonallfoursides,pivotingwiththeneedledownatthecorners.Endtheseamattheoppositesideoftheopening;backstitchthreeorfourstitches.

5Removethefabricfromthemachine.Trimthethreadsclosetothefabric.Presstheseamsflattosetthestitchinglineinthefabric.Thismayseemunnecessary,butitreallydoesgiveyouabetterlookingseamintheend.

TIPMostmachineshaveahandythreadcutterlocatedwithinafewinches(centimeters)ofthepresserfoot.Byusingthisthreadcutter,youarealsopullingenoughthreadthroughtheneedleandupfromthebobbintohelpyoupreventathreadjamatthestartofyournextseam.

6Turnbackthetopseamallowance,andpress,applyinglightpressurewithtipoftheirondownthecreaseoftheseam.Intheareaoftheopening,turnbackandpressthetopseamallowance1/2"(1.3cm).

7Turnthecoverover;turnbackandpresstheremainingopeningseamallowance.

8Toturnaperfectcorner,foldintheseamallowancesfromoneedge,andthenfoldintheseamallowancesfromtheadjacentedgeoverthem.Slipfourfingersthroughthepillowopeningandpinchthefoldedcornerbetweenyourthumbandonefinger.Turnthatcornerthroughtheopening.Repeatwiththeotherthreecorners.Yourpillowcoverhasnowbeenturnedrightsideout.

9Compressandinsertthepillowform.Alignthepressededgesoftheopening,andpintheopeningclosed.Threadahandneedleandtieaknotintheend.

10Slipstitchtheopeningclosed,followingtheinstructionsonpage49.tellmemorePERFECTCORNER.Thecornersofyourpillowshouldbesharplysquared,notrounded.Toimprovetheappearanceofaslightlyrounded

corner,youcanpushapointedutensilintothecornerfrominsidethepillowcovertoforcethestitchesouttothecorner.Aninexpensivespecialtytool,calledapointturner(page20),workswell;oryoucanuseachopstick,aballpointpenwiththeinkballretracted,orsomethingsimilar.Uselightpressure,though,sothatyoudon’tpunchaholeinthecorner.

ZIPPERCLOSURES

Pillowsthatgettossedaround,leanedupon,andslidacrossthefloorneedoccasionalcleaning.Azipperclosuresewnintoaseammakesitmucheasiertoremoveandreinsertthepillowform.Anyknife-edgepillowcanbemadewithazipperclosure.Cutthefabricandpreparethepillowfrontandbackaccordingtothedirectionsintheproject.Thenfollowthesedirectionstocompletethepillow.

Purchaseaconventionalpolyestercoilzipper(notaseparatingstyle)tomatchyourfabric,inthesizeindicatedinthechartbelow.

HOWTOSEWAZIPPERCLOSURE

1Placethepillowfrontoverthepillowback,rightsidestogether.Pinthesidethatwillhavethezipper.Centerthezipperalongsidethepinnededges,andmarktheseamallowancesjustaboveandbelowthezipperstops.

TIPForbestresults,selectasidethatwascutonthelengthwisegrainofthefabric.Thelengthwisegrainismorestableandwillhavelesstendencytostretchasyousew.

2Stitcha1/2"(1.3cm)seamfromtheupperedgetothemark,backstitchingatthebeginningandtheend.Repeatattheloweredge.Leavethecentersectionopen.

ZIPPER PILLOW

7"(18cm) 12"to14"(30.5to35.5cm)

9"(23cm) 16"to18"(40.5to46cm)

12"(30.5cm) 20"(51cm)orlarger

3Machine-basteontheseamlinebetweenthemarks.Clipthebastingstitchesevery2"(5cm)withaseamripper.Thiswillmakethestitcheseasiertoremovelater

4Presstheseamflat;thenpresstheseamallowancesopen.Finishtheseamallowanceswithazigzagstitch(page46).

TIPIfyourfabricislooselywovenortendstoraveleasily,repeatedwashingscouldmaketheseamallowancesravelawayandruinyourpillow.Asapreventativemeasure,takethetimetofinishalloftheseamallowances.

5Applybastingtape(page21)totherightsideofthezippertape,runningitalongbothouteredges.

6Placethezipperfacedownovertheseam,withthezippercoildirectlyoverthebastedpartoftheseamlineandthepulltabturneddown.Thezippercoilshouldbecenteredbetweenthebackstitchedareas.Presswithyourfingerstosecurethezippertotheseamallowances.

tellmemoreMACHINE-BASTE.Setthemachineforthelongeststraightstitchpossible.Thisstitchingistemporaryandwillbeeasilyremovedlater.

7Spreadthepillowpiecesflat,rightsideup.Insertpinsintheseamline,justaboveandbelowthezipperstops.Cut1/2"(1.3cm)transparenttapetofitbetweenthepins;placeitdownthecenteroftheseamline.

8Attachthezipperfootandadjustittotheleftoftheneedle.Ifyourzipperfootisnotadjustable,adjusttheneedletotherightofthefoot.Stitchalongtheouteredgeofthetape,stitchingacrossoneend,downoneside,andacrosstheotherend;pivotatthecorners.

9Adjustthezipperfoottotherightoftheneedleoradjustyourneedletotheleftofthefoot.Stitchoverthepreviousstitchesatoneend,downtheoppositeside,andoverthestitchesattheotherend.Clipthethreads.

10Removethetape.Carefullyremovethemachinebastingintheseamline,usingaseamripper.

11Openthezipper.Pinthepillowfrontandback,rightsidestogether,alongthethreeremainingsides.Stitch1/2"(1.3cm)seam;press.Turnthepillowcoverrightsideoutandinsertthepillowformthroughthezipperopening.

BABYBLANKET

Blanketsservemanypurposesintheroutineofbabycare.Mostoftentheyprovidecomfort,warmth,andsecurityforlittletykes.Ablanketalsoprovidesasoftsurfaceforrollingaroundonthefloororamake-dopadforaquickchangewhenyou’reonthego.Witheasy-toapplyblanketbindingandsyntheticfleecefabric,youcansewupnewblanketsinajiffy.Becausethefollowingmethodinvolvestheuseoffabricglue,you’llwanttolaunderthefinishedblanketbeforeyouuseit.

HOWTOSEWABABYBLANKET

1Cutarectangleoffabric36"×45"(91.5×115cm).Useaquiltingrulerorcarpenter’ssquaretoensuresquarecorners.Inthefollowingsteps,unrollthebindingfromthepackageasyouneedit,anddon’tcutituntilstep7.

TIPSyntheticfleeceisactuallyaknitfabricandisusually60"(152.5cm)wide.Avoidusingeitheroftheselvagesasasideofyourrectanglebecausetheymaybeslightlystretchedoutofshape.

MATERIALS

•1yd.(0.95m)syntheticfleece•Satinblanketbindingincolortomatchorcoordinatewithfabric•Quiltingrulerorcarpenter’ssquare•Fabricgluestick(page20)•Threadtomatchblanketbinding

SKILLS

•Applysatinblanketbinding•Sewmiteredcorners•Carefulpressing

2Beginningabout10"(25.5cm)fromonecornerandworkingtowardthecornerinaclockwisedirection,sliptheblanketedgebetweenthelayersofthebinding.Tucktheedgeinascloseaspossibletothebindingfold.Insertpinsthroughallthelayers,perpendiculartotheedge.Spacethepinsabout2"(5cm)apartwiththeheadsoutward.

TIPBesuretokeepthebindingfoldedsmoothandflatovertheedge,sothattheoutercreaseremainssharp.Thiswillensurethatthefinishedbindingedgesonthefrontandbackoftheblanketareperfectlyaligned.

3Setthemachinetosewamultistitchzigzag(page46)atmaximumwidthand12stitchesperinch,whichequals2mm.Placetheblanketunderthepresserfootatthebindingend,withtheinneredgeofthebindingalignedtotheleftsideofthepresserfootopening.Stitchtothefabricedge,removingpinsasyoucometothem.Stop,andremovethefabricfromthemachine.

tellmemoreLEFTSIDEOFTHEPRESSERFOOTOPENING.Theopeninginthecenterofthepresserfootismorethanwideenoughtoaccommodatethewidest

stitchyourmachinecansew.Guidethefabric,keepingatinyspacebetweenthebindingedgeandtheleftedgeoftheopening.Thefarthestleftstitchoftheneedleshouldjuststitchofftheedgeofthebinding.Adjustthepositionslightly,ifnecessary.

4Taketheblankettotheironingboard.Openoutthebindingatthecorner,andfolditdownalongthenextside,sothatthefabricedgealignstothebindingfold.A45°anglewillforminthebinding.Presstheanglelightlywiththetipoftheiron.

5Foldthebindingclosedsothattheangledfoldformsamiteredcorner.Thefoldrunsdiagonallyfromtheoutercornertotheinnercorner,matchingupperfectly.

6Fliptheblanketoverandmiterthebackofthebindingsothatthediagonalfoldonthebackalsolinesupperfectly.Usingafabricgluestick(page20),securethefoldsinplace.Thisiscalledglue-basting.

7Encaseandpintheblanketedgetothenextcorner.Placetheblanketunderthepresserfoot,aligningtheinnercornerofthemitertotheleftsideofthepresserfootopening.Backstitchtwoorthreestitches.Stitchforwardtothefabricedgeatthenextcorner.Stop,andremovetheblanketfromthemachine.

8Repeatsteps4to7fortheremainingcorners.Onthesidewhereyoustarted,cutthebinding4"(10cm)beyondthebeginning.Openthefold;pressunder2"(5cm)attheend.

9Refoldandfinishencasingandpinningtheblanketedge.Thefoldedendshouldoverlapthecutend2"(5cm).Glue-bastethefoldedendinplace.Stitchthelastside,stitchingabout1"(2.5cm)beyondtheoverlap.Removetheblanketfromthemachine,andclipthethreads.

10Resetthestitchlengthto0.Placetheoverlappedbindingendsunderthepresserfootsothatthefoldisabout1/4"(6mm)aheadofthepresserfootopening.Stitchinplaceuntiltheneedlehastraveledfromlefttorightatleasttwice.Thistackingwillkeeptheendsinplacethroughmanylaunderings.

tellmemoreRESETTHESTITCHLENGTHTO0.Themachinewillstillstitchsidetoside,asitisstillsetformultistitch-zigzag,butthefabricwillnotmove

forward.

ELASTIC-WAISTSKIRTS

Skirtswithelasticwaistbandsareclassic,comfortable,andeasy-care.Straightorflaredversionsinvaryinglengthscanbecoordinatedwithavarietyofsweatersorothertopsforbusiness,dress,orcasualwear.

Checkthepatternenvelopeforrecommendedfabrics.Somepatternsaredesignedonlyforknitsandgenerallyfitthebodycloser,countingonthestretchinessofthefabrictoallowyoutoslidetheskirtoveryourhips.Patternssuitableforwovenfabricswillincludeextrafullness.Thefirstsetofdirectionsworksforwovenorknitfabrics.Alternatestepsforsewingwithknitsbeginonpage86.Thesedirectionsmaydifferfromyourpattern;besuretousetheseamallowancegiveninyourpattern.Selectapatternwithtwopieces:afrontandaback.Anelasticcasingatthewaistlineisformedfromexcessfabriclengthattheskirttop.Theskirtitselfmaybeconstructedoftwo,three,orfoursections,dependingonwhetherornottherearecenterfrontorbackseams.

HOWTOSEWAPULL-ONSKIRT

1Toconstructtheskirtfollowingthesedirections,23/4"(7cm)offabricmustbeallowedforthecasingabovethewaistline.Thismaybedifferentfromthecasingallowancealreadyonyourpattern.Measurethisdistancefromthewaistline,andmarkacuttinglineonyourpattern.(Addextrapaper,ifnecessary.)Besuretomarkbothfrontandbackpatternpieces.

MATERIALS

•Skirtpatternwithelasticwaistline•Fabric(checkpatternforamount)•Matchingall-purposethread•1"(2.5cm)nonrollelastic,enoughtogoaroundyourwaist

SKILLS

•Sewelasticwaistlines•Hemaskirt•Sewandfinishseams

2Preparethefabric(page25),layoutthepattern(page32),andcutthefabric

(page36).Transferanynecessarymarks(page37).Insertasize11/70or12/80sharporuniversalsewingmachineneedle.Ifyourpatterndoesnothavecenterfrontorbackseams,moveontostep4.Ifyourpatternhasacenterfrontseam,placetheskirtfrontpiecesrightsidestogether,aligningthecentercutedgesandmatchingthenotches.Insertpinsperpendiculartothecenterfrontseam.

TIPBesureyouarenotpinningthepiecestogetheralongthesideseams.Sometimesitisdifficulttotellthedifference.Checkyourpatterntobesure.

3Placethefabricunderthepresserfootwiththecutedgesalignedtothe5/8"(1.5cm)seamallowanceguide.Stitchthecenterfrontseam,backstitchingafewstitchesattheupperandloweredges.Ifyourpatternhasacenterbackseam,stitchitinthesamemanner.

TIPIfyourskirthassideseampockets,followthepatterndirectionscarefullybecausemethodsvarygreatly.

4Placethefrontandbackskirtpiecesrightsidestogether,aligningthesideedgesandmatchingthenotches.Insertpinsperpendiculartothesides(p.43).

Stitchthesideseams,backstitchingattheupperandloweredges,andremovingpinsasyoucometothem(p.43).Ifyouaresewingonawovenfabric,finish(page46)theedgesofalltheseamallowances.

5Pressalltheseamsflattosetthestitchinglineinthefabric.Thismayseemunnecessary,butitreallydoesgiveyouabetter-lookingseamintheend.Thenpresstheseamallowancesopen.

TIPTopreventthecutedgeoftheseamallowancefromimprintingthefrontofthefabric,pressseamsopenoveraseamrollorhardcardboardtube.

6Bastetheseamallowancesopenflatfromtheupperedgedownabout4"(10cm)(arrow).Thiswillkeepthemfromgettinginthewaywhenyouinserttheelasticinstep9.Finishthewaistlineedge,usingamultistitch-zigzag(page46).Foldtheupperedge11/2"(3.8cm)tothewrongside,andpress.Insertpinsalongandperpendiculartothefold.

7Edgestitchclosetothefoldaroundtheupperedgeofthewaistline.Beginandendatasideseam,overlappingthestitchesabout1/2"(1.3cm).

8Insertpinsalongtheloweredgeofthecasing.Placeapieceoftapeonthebedofyourmachine11/4"(3.2cm)fromthetipoftheneedle.Stitchtheloweredgeofthecasing,guidingtheupperedgealongthetape.Leavea2"(5cm)openingatonesideseam.

TIPSometimesitisdifficulttotelltheskirtfrontfromthebackwhenthegarmentisfinished.We’vesewnashortloopoftwilltapeunderthecasingseamtoidentifytheback.

9Fastenasafetypinorbodkin(page19)tooneendoftheelastic,andinserttheelasticthroughthecasingopening.Pushandpullthesafetypinallthewaytotheoppositesideoftheopening.Removethebastingthreadsfromstep6.

TIPInsertalargesafetypinacrossthefreeendoftheelasticsothatitwillnotgetpulledintotheopening.

10Tryontheskirt.Pulluptheelastictofityourwaistsnugly,yetcomfortably;pintheendstogether.Takeofftheskirt,andtrimtheoverlappedendsto1/2"(1.3cm),ifnecessary.

11Pullthepinnedendsoftheelasticseveralinches(centimeters)outofthecasing.Placethemunderthepresserfoot,andstitchthroughbothlayers,usingamultistitch-zigzag.Toreinforce,stitchagain.

12Machine-stitchtheopeninginthecasingclosed.Distributethecasingfullnessevenlyaroundtheelastic.Stitchintheditchattheseams(arrow)tokeeptheelasticfromshiftingorrolling.

13Tryontheskirt,andhavesomeonemarkthehemlengthforyou,usingchalkorpins.Takeofftheskirt,andtrimthehemallowancetoanevendepth.(Checkthepatternforhemallowance.)Turnunderthehemalongthemarkings,andpin.Press.Fordouble-foldhemsonslightlyflaredskirts,itishelpfultohand-basteontheinnerfold.

14Stitchthehembyhand(page52)orbymachine(page53);selectamethodthatwillallowthehemtostretch,ifyouareusingaknit.Givetheskirtafinalpressing,andgiveyourselfapatontheback.

tellmemoreSTITCHINTHEDITCH.Stitchingfromtherightsideandusingshortstitches,stitchdirectlyintothewelloftheseam.Yourstitcheswill

practicallydisappear.

MARKTHEHEMLENGTH.Duringthemarking,standstraight,wearingtheshoesyouwillbewearingwiththeskirt.Thepersonmarkingshouldmeasureupfromthefloortothedesiredlength,movingaroundyouasnecessary.Otherwise,thehemwillbeuneven.Ifyoudon’thavehelp,turnupthehemtothedesiredlengthallthewayaroundandcheckinamirrorforevenlength.

ALTERNATESTEPSFORAKNITPULL-ONSKIRT

1Toconstructaknitskirtfollowingthesedirections,anamountoffabricequaltotwicethewidthoftheelasticmustbeallowedabovethewaistline.Measurethisdistancefromthewaistline,andmarkanewcuttinglineonyourpattern.(Addextrapaper,ifnecessary.)Besuretomarkbothfrontandbackpatternpieces.Followsteps2to5onpages82and83,sewingwiththeseamallowancesdesignatedbyyourpattern.Itisnotnecessarytofinishseamsonknitskirts.

TIPReadyourpatterndirections.Somepatterns,especiallythosethathave1/4"(6mm)seamallowances,instructyoutosewyourelastic

waistlinewiththismethod.Thereisnoneedtoalterthosepatterns,astheyalreadyallowthisamountoffabricatthetop.

2Cutapieceofelasticthatfitsyourwaistsnugly,yetstillstretchtofitoveryourhips.Overlaptheends1/2"(1.3cm),andstitchthemtogether,usingawidezigzagstitchormultistitch-zigzag.Divideboththeelasticandtheupperedgeoftheskirtintofourths,andpin-mark.Pintheelastictothewrongsideoftheskirt,aligningtheedgesandmatchingthepinmarks;insertthepinsperpendiculartotheedges.

3Insertfourmorepins,evenlyspaced,betweenthequartermarks,distributingthefabricfullnessevenly.Setyourmachineforamedium-widthmultistitch-zigzag.Placetheskirtunderthepresserfootwiththeelasticontop.Aligntheedgeofthefoottotheelasticandfabricedges.Stitch,stretchingtheelastictofitbetweenthepinsandkeepingtheedgesaligned.Removepinsasyoucometothem,stoppingwiththeneedledowninthefabric.

4Foldtheelastictothewrongsideoftheskirt,sothefabricencasestheelastic.Fromtherightsideoftheskirt,stitchintheditch(p.85)oftheseamthroughallthewaistbandlayers,ateachseam.Thisstepmakesstep5easier.

TIPStretchthewaistbandslightlytogiveyourselfaclearviewofyourtarget.

5Withtherightsidefacingup,topstitchthroughalllayersofthewaistband,stretchingtheelasticasyousew.Useeitherazigzagormultistitch-zigzag,withmediumwidthandlength,andstitchneartheloweredgeoftheelastic.Thesestitcheswillallowtheskirttostretchasitgoesoveryourhips.Finishtheskirt,followingsteps13and14onpage85.

tellmemoreTWICETHEWIDTHOFTHEELASTIC.Forthismethod,1"(2.5cm)elasticworkswell,thoughyoumaydecidetouseadifferentwidth.Some

specialtyelasticshavechannelsfortopstitching,givingthelookofmultiplerows.

STRETCHINGTHEELASTICTOFITBETWEENTHEPINS.Graspthefabricandelasticbehindthepresserfootwithonehandandaheadofthepresser

footwiththeotherhand,workinginsmallsectionsatatime.Stretchtheelasticonlyfarenoughtotakeuptheslackinthefabric.Keepaneventensionontheelastic,allowingthefeeddogstofeedthefabricatasteadypace.Stopsewingtomoveyourhands.

ELASTIC-WAISTPANTS

Pull-onpantswithelasticwaistsareeasytofitandeasytosew.Whensewninsupple,lightweightwovens,suchasrayonormicrofiber,theyareelegantenoughforeveningwear.Forsportierlooks,cotton,cottonblends,linen,orseersuckerworkwellandcanbepairedwithsimpleT-shirtsorblouses.Considerpurchasingenoughfabrictomakeamatchingjackettogowithyourpantsandcompletetheoutfit.

Selectapantspatternwithtwomainpieces:thefrontandtheback.Theelasticcasingforthewaistisformedfromexcessfabricatthetop.Theseinstructionsareforpantswithoutpockets.Themethodforsewingside-seampocketsvariesfrompatterntopattern.Onceyouunderstandthebasicsofsewingpull-onpants,youcanadvancetoapatternwithpockets,followingthepatterninstructionsclosely.

MATERIALS

•Pantspattern;loose-fittingwithelasticwaistline•Fabric(checkpatternforamount)•Matchingall-purposethread•3/8"(1cm)elastic,enoughtogotwicearoundyourwaist

SKILLS

•Alterthecrotchlengthofapattern•Altertheleglengthofapattern•Makeamulti-rowelasticwaistband

Thewaistbandcasingonthesepantsisdividedinhalfwithastitchinglinetoaccommodatetwoelasticstrips.

HOWTOSEWPULL-ONPANTS

1Measurethelengthofthecrotchseamonapairofpantsthatyouknowfitscomfortably.Startfromthebottomofthewaistbandinthefrontandmeasurethedistancearoundthecrotchtothebottomofthewaistbandintheback.Onyourpattern,measurethetotalcrotchlength,standingthetapemeasureonedgeandmeasuringalongtheseamlineofthecenterfrontandcenterback.Beginandendatthewaistlinemark;don’tincludethe5/8"(1.5cm)seamallowancesattheinseam.

2Comparethepantscrotchlengthtothepatterncrotchlength.Alteryourpattern,ifnecessary.Cutthepatternpiecesapartonthehorizontaladjustmentline.Thenlapthepiecesbyhalfthetotalamountneededtoshorten(left),orseparatethepiecesbyhalfthetotalamountneededtolengthen(right).Insertapaperstriptolengthen;tapethepiecesinplace.

3Next,comparetheinseammeasurementsonyourpantsandonyourpattern,measuringfromthecrotchseamlinetothehemline.Makeanynecessaryalterationatthehorizontaladjustmentline.

4Toconstructthepantsfollowingthesedirections,23/4"(7cm)offabricmustbeallowedforthecasingabovethewaistline.Measurethisdistancefromthewaistline,andmarkanewcuttinglineonyourpattern.(Addextrapaper,ifnecessary.)Besuretomarkbothfrontandbackpatternpieces.

5Preparethefabric(page25),layoutthepattern(page32),andcutthefabric(page36).Transferanynecessarymarks(page37).Setyoursewingmachineonastraightstitchof10to12stitchesperinch,whichis2to2.5mm.Insertasewingmachineneedlesuitableforyourfabric(page12).Placetherightfrontovertherightback,rightsidestogether,alongtheinnerleg.Pinthemtogether,matchingnotchesandinsertingthepinsperpendiculartotheedges(p.43).Stitchtheseam,using5/8"(1.5cm)seamallowanceunlessyourpatternindicatesanotherseamallowance.Repeatfortheleftfrontandbacklegs.

6Finishtheedgesoftheseamallowances(page46).Presstheseamsflat;thenpressthemopen.

tellmemoreBYHALFTHETOTALAMOUNTNEEDED.Forexample,ifyouneedtoshortenthecrotch1"(2.5cm),shortenthepantsfront1/2"(1.3cm),and

shortenthepantsback1/2"(1.3cm).

7Withrightsidestogether,pinthesewnrightandleftpantssectionstogetheratthecrotchseam.Lineuptheinnerlegseams,andmatchanynotches.Stitchtheentireseam.Thenstitchthecurvedareaoftheseambetweenthenotchesasecondtime,1/4"(6mm)fromthefirststitching.

8Trimtheseaminthecurvedareaofthecrotchclosetothesecondstitchingline.Finishthetrimmedseamallowances.Thenalsofinishtheremainingseamallowancesseparately.Presstheseamallowancesopeninthefrontandback,abovethetrimmedportionoftheseam.

9Pinthefrontandback,rightsidestogether,atthesideseams,matchingnotchesandanyothermarks.Stitcha5/8"(1.5cm)seamfromthebottomofthelegtotheupperedge.Repeatfortheothersideseam.

10Finishtheseamallowancesseparately.Presstheseamsflat;thenpressthemopen,usingaseamroll.Bastealltheseamallowancesopenflatfromtheupperedgedownabout4"(10cm).Thiswillkeepthemfromgettinginthewaywhenyouinserttheelasticinstep15.

11Finishthewaistline(page46).Foldtheupperedge11/2"(3.8cm)tothewrongside,andpress.Insertpinsalongandperpendiculartothefold.

12Edgestitch(p.63)closetothefoldaroundtheupperedgeofthewaistline.Beginandendatasideseam,overlappingthestitchesabout1/2"(1.3cm).

13Placeapieceoftapeonthebedofyourmachine11/4"(3.2cm)fromthetipoftheneedle.Stitchtheloweredgeofthecasing,guidingtheupperedgealongthetape.Leavea2"(5cm)openingatonesideseam.

14Measurefromtheupperedgeofthewaisttoapointhalfwaybetweenthetwostitchinglines.Placetapeonthemachinebedasasewingguide.Stitch,leavinga2"(5cm)openingjustabovethefirstopening.

TIPTousethreerowsof1/4"(6mm)elasticinyourwaistlinecasing,dividethespaceintoeventhirds.

15Cuttwopiecesof3/8"(1cm)elasticalittlelargerthanyourwaistmeasurement.Fastenasafetypinorbodkin(page19)tooneendofoneelastic,andinserttheelasticthroughthecasingopeningintothetopchannel.Pushandpullthesafetypinthroughallthewaytotheoppositesideoftheopening,takingcarenottoletthefreeenddisappearintotheopening.Thendothesamewiththesecondpieceofelastic,insertingitintothelowerchannel.Securetheendsofbothpieceswithsafetypins.

16Tryonthepants.Pulluptheelastictofityourwaistsnugly,yetcomfortably;pintheendstogether.Takeoffthepants.Pullthepinnedendsofthetopelasticseveralinches(centimeters)outofthecasing.Trimtheoverlappedendsto1/2"(1.3cm),ifnecessary.Placethemunderthepresserfoot,andstitchthroughbothlayers,usingamultistitch-zigzag.Repeatforthelowerelastic.

17Machine-stitchtheopeningsinthecasingclosed.Distributethecasingfullnessevenlyaroundtheelastic.Stitchintheditch(p.85)attheseamstokeeptheelasticfromshiftingorrolling.Removethebastingstitchesfromstep10.

18Turnunderthehemallowance,andpininplace.Tryonthepants,andadjustthelength,ifnecessary.Takeoffthepants,andtrimthehemallowancetoanevendepth.Pressthefold.Finishtheloweredge.Stitchthehembyhand(page52)orbymachine(page53).Givethepantsafinalpressing,andthey’rereadytowear!

T-SHIRTS

T-shirtsareclassicandversatile;itseemsyoucanneverhavetoomany.Asyoubecomemoreexperienced,you’llbesurprisedhowquicklyyouareabletomakethem.Thefunbeginsinselectingyourknitfabric(page23)fromthearrayofstripes,prints,andcolorfulsolidsavailable.

Tohelpyoudecidewhichpatterntobuy,notethewaythet-shirtsfitthemodelsorsketchesonthepatternenvelopefront.Somepatternsaredesignedforanoversizedlook,othersaremeanttofityourbodymoreclosely.Yourpatternshouldhavefourpieces:front,back,sleeve,andneckribbing.Somemayalsohaveapieceforsleeveribbing.

ThefitoftheT-shirtwillvarywiththefabric’sdegreeofstretch.T-shirtpatterns,designedforknitsonly,indicatetheamountofstretchrequiredofthefabric.Forinstance,“25%stretchcrosswise”wouldindicatethat4"(10cm)offabricwillstretchonthecrosswisegrainanadditional1"(2.5cm).Alwaystestthedegreeofstretchinthefabric,especiallyifyouaremakingaclose-fittingT-shirt.

MATERIALS

•T-shirtpattern(designedforstretchknits)•Knitfabric(checkpatternforamount)•Scrapsoffusibleknitinterfacing(page19)•Ribbing(checkpatternforamount)•Matchingall-purposethread

SKILLS

•Sewwithknitfabric•Sewinsleeves•Applyribbingtoaneckline

HOWTOSEWAT-SHIRT

1Preparethefabric(page25);however,don’twashtheribbing,astherawedgesarelikelytostretchoutofshape.T-shirtsareeasiesttosewusing1/4"(6mm)seamallowances.Ifyourpatternpieceshave5/8"(1.5cm)seamallowances,trimthemdownto1/4"(6mm)beforelayingoutthepattern.Layoutthepattern(page32),andcutthefabric(page36).Transferanynecessarymarks(page37).Insertaballpointsewingmachineneedle;size11/70or12/80issuitableformostknits.Cuttwo1/2"(1.3cm)stripsoffusibleinterfacingthelengthoftheshoulderseam.Placeastripevenwiththecutedgeofeachbackshoulder,onthewrongsideofthefabric.Fusethestripsinplace,followingthemanufacturer’sdirections.Thisisdonetostabilizetheshoulderseams.

TIPTheinterfacingboltiswrappedwithalongsheetofplasticonwhichthedirectionsareprinted.Havethestoreclerkcutoffasectionofthedirectionsforyoutotakehome.

2PlacetheT-shirtfrontovertheback,rightsidestogether,aligningtheshoulderseamallowanceedges.Pin,insertingthepinsperpendiculartotheedges.StitchthefrontandbackT-shirtsectionstogetherattheshoulderseams,usinga1/4"(6mm)seamallowance;backstitchafewstitchesateachedge.Sincetheshoulderseamsarestabilized,astraightstitchisappropriatehere.

3Addasecondrowofmachinestitching(eitherastraightstitchoranarrowzigzag)nexttothefirstrow,withintheseamallowance.Presstheshoulderseamallowancestowardtheshirtback.

4Markthecenterfrontandcenterbackofthenecklinewithpins.Thenbringthetwocenterstogetherandmarkthepointshalfwaybetweenwithpins.(thesemarksshouldbeslightlyaheadoftheshoulderseams.)Thenecklineisnowdividedintofourths.

5Sewtheshortendsoftheribbing,rightsidestogether,formingacircle.Use1/4"(6mm)seamallowance,andsewwithashortstraightstitch.Presstheseamopenwithyourfingers.Avoidpressingribbingwithaniron,asthismaydestroyitselasticity.

6Foldtheribbinginhalf,lengthwise,withtherawedgesevenandtheseamallowancesontheinside.Dividetheribbingintofourths,asyoudidtheneckline.Markthesesectionswithpins.

tellmemoreSTABILIZETHESHOULDERSEAMS.Shoulderseamsfollowthecrosswisegrain,thedirectioninwhichknitfabricsstretchthemost.However,itis

notdesirableornecessarytohaveshoulderseamsthatstretch.Narrowstripsoffusibleinterfacinghelptheseamskeeptheirintendedlength.You’llalsofindthatthismakessewinginthestretchydirectionmucheasier.

RIBBING,RIGHTSIDESTOGETHER.Sometimesknitfabricsandribbingsdonothavearightorwrongside.Totest,gentlystretchtherawedgeonthecrosswisegrainoftheribbing.Iftheedgecurlstooneside,thatsideistheright

sideofthefabric.Ifitdoesn’tcurltoeitherside,eithersidecanbeusedontheoutside.

7Pintheribbingtotherightsideoftheneckline,aligningtheribbingseamtothecenterbackpinmark;matchuptheremainingpinmarks.

8Placethefabricunderthepresserfoot,withtheribbingfacingup.Stitchwithanarrowzigzagorstretchstitch(page47),keepingtherawedgesevenandstretchingtheribbingevenlytofiteachsectionbetweenpins.Removethepinsasyoucometothem.

9Stitchagainnexttothefirstrow,usinganarrow,medium-lengthzigzagstitch.Gentlypresstheribbingtowardtheshirt,beingcarefulnottostretchtheribbing.

10Makesureyouhavemarkedthetopofthesleeveandanyothernotchesonthesleeveandshirtasindicatedonthepatternpieces.Withrightsidestogether,pinthesleevetothearmholeoftheshirt,matchingthetopdotornotchtotheshoulderseam,andaligninganyothernotches.Pinfrequently,easinginanyextrasleevefullness.

11Stitchthearmholeseam,usinganarrow,medium-lengthzigzagstitch;removethepinsasyoucometothem.Stitchagainnexttothefirstrow,withintheseamallowance.

12Repeatsteps10and11fortheothersleeve.Presstheseamstowardthesleeves.Withtherightsidestogether,pintheshirtfronttotheshirtbackalongthesidesandsleeves,matchingtheunderarmseams.

13Stitchandfinishtheseamsinthesamemannerasforthesleeveseams,beginningattheloweredgeoftheshirtandsewingcontinuouslytotheloweredgeofthesleeve.Presstheseamstowardtheback.

TIPYoucanpressthesideseams,simplybyslippingtheshirtovertheendoftheironingboard.Insertaseamrollorsleeveboard(page18)intothesleeve,soyoucanpresstheseamallowancetothesidewithoutpressingunwantedcreasesintotheoppositesideofthesleeve.

14Turnunderthelowerhemallowance,asspecifiedbyyourpattern.Stitchthehembyhand(page52)orbymachine(page53);selectamethodthatwillallowthehemtostretch,ifnecessary.Hemtheloweredgesofthesleevesinthesamemanner.

tellmemoreHEMALLOWANCE.Thepatternhasallowedapredeterminedextralengthforturningunderandfinishingthesleevesandloweredge.Thisamount

isindicatedonyourpattern.

APRONWITHPOCKETS

Withtherenewedinterestincookingandretrofashions,apronshavemadeagrandcomeback.Madefromawashablefabricwithafunprint,thisapronhasaskirtgatheredtoawaistbandwithtiesattached.Contrastingfabricwasusedforthepockets,waistband,andties.Rickracktrimappliedtothepocketsandskirthemgivetheapronaretrolook.

Thisstyleismadefromsixrectanglesoffabric:alargerectanglefortheskirt,twosmallerrectanglesforthepockets,twolongnarrowrectanglesforties,andoneforthewaistband.Youdon’tneedtobuyacommercialpattern,youcansimplymeasureandmarkoutthepiecesonyourfabricandcutthemout.

HOWTOSEWANAPRON

1Preparethefabric(page25).Layoutthefabricinasinglelayer.Usingacarpenter’ssquareorquilter’sruler,measureandmarkouttherectangleslistedbelow.Marktheskirtpieceononefabric;markthewaistband,pockets,andtiesontheotherfabric.Donotuseaselvageasoneofthesides.Cutoutthepieces.

DIMENSIONSFORAPRONPIECES

Skirt 20"long×30"wide(50.8x76.2cm)

2pockets 81/2"longx71/2"wide(21.6x19.2cm)

Waistband 41/2"x20"(11.4x50.8cm)

2ties 41/2"x28"(11.4x71.1cm)

Waistbandinterfacing 2"x19"(5.1x48.3cm)

MATERIALS

•5/8yd.(0.6m)lightweightwovenfabricforskirt•1/2yd.(0.5m)lightweightcontrastingfabricforpockets,waistband,andties

•Lightweightfusibleinterfacing,2"×19"(5.1×48.3cm)•Matchingall-purposethread•1packageofwiderickrack•Gluestick

SKILLS

•Gatheringfabric•Sewingawaistband•Sewingdouble-foldhems•Sewingapatchpocket

•Applyingdecorativetrims

2Foldupperedgeofonepocketpiece1"(2.5cm)tothewrongsideandpress.Unfoldtheedgeandturntherawedgeintomeetthepressedfold;pressagain.Thenrefoldtheedge,andpressagain,formingadouble-foldfacing.Repeatfortheotherpocket.

3Turnthefacingtotherightsideofthepocket,evenwiththebottomfold.Pinthelayerstogetheratthesides.Startingatthetopofthepocket,stitcha1/2"(1.3cm)seamtothebottomofthefacingoneachsideofthepocket,backstitchingatthebeginningandend.Trimthecornersdiagonally.Trimthefacingseamallowanceto1/4"(6mm)

4Turnthefacingtotheinside.Usingapointturnerorsimilartool,gentlypushoutthecornerstosquarethemoff.Pressthetopfold;thefacingshouldbe1/2"(1.3cm)wide.Foldinthesides1/2"(1.3cm),andpress.Tosquarethebottomcorners,turnunder1/2"(1.3cm)onthebottom,andpress.

tellmemoreTRIMTHEUPPERCORNERSDIAGONALLY.Thisminimizestheexcessbulktoformasmoothercornerwhenthepieceisturnedbacktotheinside.

5Findthe3/8"(1cm)seamguideonthethroatplate.Foreasierguiding,markthisdistancefromtheneedleonthemachinebed,usingtape.Topstitchtheupperedgeofthepocket,guidingthefoldalongthetapemarkandcatchingthefacinginthestitches.

6Cutrickrackthewidthofthepocketplus11/4"(3.2cm).Applygluesticktothebackoftherickrack.Placetherickrackoverthefacingstitchingline,wrappingtheendstotheundersideofthepocket.Stitchdownthecenteroftherickrack,backstitchingatthesidesofthepocket.Repeatforotherpocket.

7Placethepocketsontheapronskirt91/2"(24.1cm)fromthelongbottomedgeand6"(15.2cm)fromthesides.Makesurethepocketedgesareparalleltotheskirtedges.Pinthesidesandbottomedgesofthepocketstotheskirt,insertingthepinsperpendiculartothepocketedges.

8Withapencilorerasablefabricmarker,drawasmalltriangleineachuppercornerofeachpocket,1/8"(3mm)fromthetopandsideedges.Placetheskirtunderthepresserfootwiththetopofthepockettowardyou,aligningtheneedletostartsewingatthelowestpointofthetriangle.Stitchforwardtwostitches,thenbackstitchtwostitches.Nowstitchdiagonallytothetop,pivot,andstitchafewstitchesacrossthetopofthetriangle.Pivotagainsotheneedleisnowalignedtostitchdownthesideofthepocket.Edgestitcharoundthesidesandthebottomofthepocket,andfinishwiththetriangleontheoppositecorner,againbackstitchingtwostitches.

TIPApronpocketsareusedfrequently.Stitchingtrianglesatthetop

cornersreinforcesthembetterthanmerelybackstitching,whichcanputmorestrainontheskirtfabricbeneaththepocket.

9Turnundertheloweredgeoftheskirt2"(5.1cm)andpress.Unfoldtheedgeandturntherawedgeintomeetthepressedfold;pressagain.Refoldtheedge,forminga1"(2.5cm)double-foldhem.Insertpinsperpendiculartothefolds.

10Atthebottomcorneroftheskirt,turnthehemtotherightside,keepingtheinnerfoldinplace.Pinthelayerstogetheratthesides.Stitcha1"(2.5cm)seamacrossthehem,backstitchingatthebeginningandend.Trimthecornerdiagonally.Turnthecornerrightsideout.Repeatforotherside.

11Foldandpress1/2"(1.3cm)double-foldhemsintheskirtsides,makingthefirstfold1"(2.5cm)deep.Insertpinsperpendiculartothefolds.

12Placetheskirt,rightsidedown,underthepresserfootwiththebulkofthefabrictotheleftofthemachine.Beginningatthetopofthesidehem,stitchalongtheinnerfold,removingpinsasyoucometothem.Pivotatthetopfoldofthebottomhem,andstitchalongthehemfoldtotheoppositeside.Pivotagain,andstitchalongtheinnerfoldoftheothersidehemtotheskirttop.

13Cutrickrackthewidthoftheskirtplus11/4"(3.2cm).Applyrickrackoverthestitchinglineofthebottomhem,followingstep6.

14Setyourmachinetosewlongstraightstitches.Beginningatonesidehem,basteascant1/2"(1.3cm)fromthetopedgeoftheskirt.Stitchfromtherightsideofthefabric.Stopstitchingattheoppositesidehem.Stitchanotherrowoflongstitches1/4"(6mm)closertotheedge.Leavethreadtailsateachend.Settheskirtaside.

tellmemoreDOUBLE-FOLDHEM.Double-foldhemsaremadewithtwofoldsofequaldepths,encasingthecutedgeinthecreaseoftheouterfold.Pressing

thefirstfoldtothetotalhemdepthallowsyoutobemoreaccurateinturningandpressing.

15Foldatielengthwise,withrightsidestogetherandrawedgeseven.Insertpinsperpendiculartotheedges.Stitch1/2"(1.3cm)seamacrossoneendofthetieandthelongedge.Trimcornersdiagonally.Repeatfortheothertie.Turnthetiesrightsideout.Press.Topstitch1/8"(3mm)fromoutsideedges.Setthetiesaside.

16Pressthewaistbandinhalflengthwise,andunfold.Placetheinterfacingstrip,fusiblesidedown,onthewrongsideofthewaistband,aligningonelongedgetothecentercreaseandcenteringthestriplengthwise.Fusetheinterfacinginplace.

17Pressunder3/8"(1cm)onthelongunfusededgeofthewaistband.Markthecutedgeofthewaistband1/2"(1.3cm)fromeachend.Thendividethewaistbandintofourequalparts,andmark,usingchalkpencilorerasablemarker.Alsodividetheupperedgeoftheskirtintofourequalparts,andmark.

18Withrightsidestogether,pinthecutedgeofthewaistbandtotheupperedgeoftheskirt,matchingquartermarks.Insertpinsfromtheskirtside.Atoneend,graspbothofthebobbinthreads,andpullonthemwithequaltension,slidingthefabricalongthethreadtogatherit.

19Keeppullingonthebobbinthreads,gatheringthefabric,anddistributingthegathersevenlybetweenthepinsonhalfofthewaistband.Whentheskirtfabricisgathereduptofitthathalf,securethebobbinthreadsbywindingtheminafigureeightaroundtheendpin.

20Pullthebobbinthreadsfromtheotherendtogathertheremaininghalf;securethethreads.Distributeallthegatheredfabricevenlyalongthewaistband,insertingpinsfrequentlytoholdthefabricinplace.

tellmemoreTURNTHETIESRIGHTSIDEOUT.Therearespecialtoolsforturningnarrowtubesinsideout.Lookforthematthefabricstore.Becausethis

isafrequentlyrequiredtaskinsewing,itisworthittobuyoneofthesetools.Inapinch,youcanprobablygetthejobdonebyworkingthefabricovertheeraserendofapencilorawoodenspoonhandle,butit’smuchhardertodo.

21Resetthestitchlengthfor10to12stitchesperinch,whichis2to2.5mm.Placethefabricunderthepresserfoot,thewaistbandonthebottom.Stitchthewaistseam1/2"(1.3cm)fromtherawedges.Keepthegathersevenandremovepinsasyoucometothem.

22Trimtheseamallowancesjustabovethegatheringstitches.

23Turntheseamallowancetowardthewaistband,andpresslightlywiththetipoftheiron.Avoidpressingcreasesintothegathers.

24Pinthetiestotheshortendsofthewaistband,rightsidestogether.Foldthecentercreaseofthewaistbandintheoppositedirectionovertheties,rightsidestogether.Stitcha1/2"(1.3cm)seamacrosseachendofthewaistband.Trimtheseamsandclipthecornersdiagonally.

25Turnthewaistbandrightsideout,encasingtherawendsoftheties.Press.Thefoldededgeshouldextenddownovertheseamonthewrongside.Fromtherightside,pinintheditchofthewaistbandseam,catchingthefoldededgeontheback.

TIPBesuretokeeptheseamallowanceturnedupasitwaspressed.Checktobesurethefoldededgeofthewaistbandispinnedataconsistentdepthandliesflat.

26Stitchintheditch(p.85)oftheseamfromtherightsideoftheskirt,backstitchingattheendsofthewaistbandandremovingpinsasyoucometothem.Becarefulnottocatchthetiesinthestitching.

UNLINEDJACKETS

Collarlessjacketsareversatileadditionstoanywardrobe.Thosethatareloose-fittingandunlined,withdrop-shoulderstylingandpatchpockets,areeasytomake.Lookforapatternthatincludespiecesforfront,back,sleeve,frontfacing,backfacing,andpocket.

thesedirectionsareforsquarebottomfrontcorners.Ifyourpatternhasroundcorners,paycloseattentiontothepatterndirectionswhenattachingthefacing(step11)andhemmingtheloweredge(steps24to27).Aswithanyotherproject,thefabricofyourjacketwilldeterminewhetheritwillbemoresuitableforcasual,business,ordress.Cotton,cottonblends,anddenimwouldbegoodchoicestowearwithjeansorcasualslacksandskirts.Wool,woolblends,linen,andrayonworkforbusinessordress.Whenyou’refeelingreallyconfident,youmightevenconsidermakingajacketofsuit-weightsilk,liketheoneatleft.

MATERIALS

•Jacketpattern;unlined,loose-fitting•Fabricforjacket(checkpatternforamount)•Matchingall-purposethread•Lightweightfusibleinterfacing(checkpatternforamount)•Buttons

SKILLS

•Sewadrop-shouldersleeve•Sewapatchpocket•Applyfusibleinterfacing•Sewneckandfrontfacings

HOWTOSEWANUNLINEDJACKET

1Preparethefabric(page25).Layoutthepatternpieces(page32),andcutout(page36)allbutthefacings.Fuseinterfacingtothewrongsideofthefabricforthefacings,followingthemanufacturer’sdirections(p.98).Thencutoutthefacings.Transferanynecessarymarks(page37).

2Turnunderthetopedgeofthepocket1/4"(6mm);press.Tofinishtheedge,setyourmachineforazigzagstitchofmediumlengthandwidth.Stitchclosetothefoldededge,sothattheright-handswingoftheneedlejustclearsthefold.

3Turntheupperedgeofthepocket(thefacing)totheoutsideonthefoldline;pinatthesides.Startingatthetopofthepocket,stitcha5/8"(1.5cm)seamtothebottomofthefacingoneachsideofthepocket,backstitchingatthebeginningandend.Trimthefacingseamallowanceto3/8"(1cm).Trimtheuppercornersdiagonally.

4Turnthefacingtotheinside.Usingapointturnerorsimilartool,gentlypushoutthecornerstosquarethemoff.Pressthetopfold.Ifthepockethassquarebottomcorners,turnunder5/8"(1.5cm)onthebottom,andpress.Thenrepeatforthesideedges.

5Setyoursewingmachineforastraightstitchof10to12stitchesperinch,whichis2to2.5mm.Measurethefinishedwidthofthefacing;subtract1/8"(3mm).Markthisdistancefromtheneedleonthemachinebed,usingtape.Topstitchtheupperedgeofthepocket,guidingthefoldalongthetapemarkandcatchingthefacinginthestitches.

6Repeatsteps2to5fortheotherpocket.Placethepocketsonthejacketfront,matchingtheuppercornerstothemarkingstransferredfromthepattern.Pinthemsecurelyinplace,insertingthepinsperpendiculartotheedges(p.43).Edgestitcharoundthesidesandbottomofthepockets,backstitchingatbothuppercorners.Stopwiththeneedledowninthefabrictopivotateachcorner.Removethepinsasyoucometothem(p.43).

7Pinthejacketfrontstothejacketbackattheshoulders,withrightsidestogether,aligningthecutedgesandmatchinganynotches.Insertthepinsperpendiculartotheedges.

8Stitchtheseams,guidingthecutedgesalongthe5/8"(1.5cm)seamallowanceguide.Presstheseamsflat;thenpressthemopen.

9Sewthefrontfacingstothebackfacingattheshouldersasinsteps7and8.Trimtheseamallowancesto1/4"(6mm).Finishtheinner,unnotchededgesofthefrontfacingsandtheloweredgeofthebackfacing(arrows)asinstep2.

10Pinthefacingtothejacket,rightsidestogether,aligningthecutedges.Matchtheshoulderseamsandallnotches.Attheshoulders,insertapininthewellsoftheseams,tokeepthemaligned.

11Stitchthefacingtothejacket,guidingthecutedgesalongthe5/8"(1.5cm)seamallowanceguide.Stitchcontinuouslyfromoneloweredge,aroundtheneckline,totheoppositeloweredge;backstitchafewstitchesatthebeginningandend.Removethepinsasyoucometothem,andkeeptheshoulderseamallowancesopenflat.

12Gradetheseamallowancesbytrimmingthejacketnecklineseamallowanceto3/8"(1cm)andthefacingseamallowanceto1/4"(6mm).Clipintothenecklineseamallowanceevery1/2"(1.3cm),clippingupto,butnotthrough,thestitches.Clippingallowsthefacingtoturnsmoothlytotheinsideandlieflat.

13Presstheseamallowancesflat;thenpressthemtowardthefacing.Withtherightsideup,placethefacing(A)underthepresserfoot,sotheneedleisalignedtoenterthefabricjusttotherightoftheseamatthelowerleftfront;thejacket(B)extendsofftheleftofthemachinebed.Keepingtheseamallowanceturnedtowardthefacing(arrows),stitchallaroundthefrontsandnecklineveryclosetotheseam.Youwillbestitchingthroughthefacingandtheseamallowance,butnotthroughthejacket.Thisstep,calledunderstitching,helpsthefacinglieflat.

TIPAlongthecurveoftheneckline,keepthefacinglyingflat,allowingthejacketto“bunchup”totheleftofthecurve.Stitch,followingthecurveofthefacing.Theclippedseamallowancewill“fanout”

underneaththefacing.

14Turnthefacingtotheinside;press.Aligntheshoulderseams,andsmooththemouttothesleeveedge.Pinthefacingtothesleeveedge,insertingthepinsperpendiculartotheedge.Setyourmachineforlongstraightstitches.Bastethefacingstothesleeveedges.

TIPSomejacketpatternshavefacingsthatdonotextendallthewaytothesleeveedge.Aligntheshoulderseamallowances,andstitchintheditch(p.85)tosecurethefacingtothejacket.

15Pinthesleevetothejacket,withrightsidestogether.Alignthecutedges,andmatchthenotches.Youprobablyalsohaveamarkonthesleeveedgethatalignstothejacketshoulderseam.Countthenotchestobesureyouarepinningthecorrectsleeve.Pinfrequentlyfromthejacketside,easingthesleevetofitsmoothly.

16Placethejacketunderthepresserfoot,withthesleeveunderneath.Stitchtheseam,guidingtheedgesalongthe5/8"(1.5cm)seamallowanceguide.Removethepinsasyoucometothem.

17Checkfromthesleeveside,tobesuretherearenopuckers.Ifthereareany,clipthestitches,usingaseamripper,andremovethestitchesoneithersideofthepuckerfarenoughtosmoothitout;restitch.

18Stitchasecondlineintheseamallowances,1/4"(6mm)fromthefirststitchingline,fromthenotchestoeachend.Trimtheseamallowancesinthisareaclosetothesecondstitchingline.

19Repeatsteps15to18fortheoppositesleeve.Setyourmachineforamedium-length,medium-widthzigzagstitch.Foreachsleeve,finishtheseamallowanceedgestogether,stitchingsothattherightswingoftheneedlejustclearsthefabricedge.Presstheseamallowancestowardthesleeves.

20Pinthejacketfronttothejacketback,rightsidestogether,alongthesideseamsandextendingontotheunderarmsleeveseams.Matchnotches,andalignthesleeveseams.Insertthepinsperpendiculartotheedges.

21Stitch5/8"(1.5cm)seamfromthebottomofonesidecontinuouslytotheendofthesleeve.Keeptheunderarmseamallowancesturnedtowardthesleeve.Repeatfortheoppositeside.

22Finishthesideandunderarmseamallowancesasinstep2.Presstheseamallowancesflat;thenpressthemopen.

TIPPresstheseamallowancesopenoveraseamrolltopreventimprintingtheseamallowanceedgesontotherightsideofthejacketandtomakeiteasiertopressthesleeveseamsopen.

23Finishtheloweredgeofthejacketasinstep2.Repeatfortheloweredgesofthesleeves.Turnundertheremaininghemallowancesonthesleeves,andpress,usingaseamrollorsleeveboard(page18).Slipstitch(page52)thehemstothejacket.

24Placethejacketonyourironingboard,wrongsideup;openthefrontfacings.Turnundertheremaininghemallowanceontheloweredge,includingthefacings;press.

25Unfoldtheloweredge.Turnthejacketover,andturnthefacingtotheoutside,aligningtheloweredges.Pin,keepingthefacingseamallowancesturnedtowardthefacing.Stitchthefacingtothejacket,stitchinginthewellofthepressedfold.Repeatfortheoppositeside.

26Trimthefacingseamallowancetowithin1/4"(6mm)ofthestitches.Trimthecornerdiagonally,towithin1/8"(3mm)ofthecornerstitch.Repeatfortheoppositeside.Turnthefacingstotheinside,andpress.

27Refoldtheremaininghem,andpin.Slipstitchthehemtothejacket.Atthefronts,slipstitchthefacingstothehem.

28Topstitch3/8"(1cm)fromtheedgesalongthefrontsandnecklineofthejacket,ifdesired.Ifyourjackethasbuttons,transferthebuttonholeplacementmarksfromyourpatterntotherightjacketfront.Makebuttonholes,followingthedirectionsinyoursewingmachineowner’smanual.Transferthebuttonplacementmarkstotheleftfront.Sewbuttonsasonpage50or51.

Glossary

BACKSTITCHING.Takingafewbackwardstitchesatthebeginningandendofyourstitchinglinepreventsthestitchesfrompullingout.Themethodforbackstitchingvarieswitheachsewingmachine.Youmayneedtoliftandholdyourstitchlengthlever,pushinandholdabutton,orsimplytouchanicon.Checkyourowner’smanual.

BASTE.Long,easy-to-removestitchesaresewnintothefabrictemporarily,eitherbyhandorbymachine.Hand-bastingstitchesareusedtoholdlayersoffabricandbattingtogetherforquilting.Machine-bastingstitchesareusedtocloseaseambeforeinsertingazipper.Theyarealsousedtogatherasectionoffabricintoasmallerspace.

BIAS.Anydiagonallineintersectingthelengthwiseandcrosswisegrainsoffabricisreferredtoasbias.Whilewovenfabricdoesnotstretchonthelengthwiseandcrosswisegrains,ithasconsiderablestretchonthebias.

CASING.Afabrictunnelissewnintothegarment,oftenatthewaistline,tocarryelasticorcording.

CLIP.Small,closelyspacedcutsaremadeintotheseamallowancesofagarmentorotherproject,usuallyalongacurveorintoacorner.Whentheitemisturnedrightsideout,theseamallowancescanspreadapartandlieflatwheretheyhavebeenclipped.Smallclipsarealsousedformarkingthelocationofnotchesordotsfromthepattern.

COURSES.Correspondingtothecrosswisegrainofawovenfabric,thecoursesofaknitfabricrunperpendiculartotheselvagesandribs.Knitfabricsaremoststretchyinthedirectionofthecourses.

CROSSWISEGRAIN.onwovenfabric,thecrosswisegrainrunsperpendiculartotheselvages.Fabrichasslight“give”inthecrosswisegrain.

DROPLENGTHisthelengthofatableclothfromtheedgeofthetabletotheedgeofthecloth.Itcanbeanywherefrom6"(15cm)tofloor-length.

DROP-SHOULDER.Thisgarmentdesignfeaturemeansthattheseamjoiningthesleevetothefrontandbackisintendedtofalldownofftheedgeoftheshoulder,ratherthanaligntotheshouldercrest.Drop-shoulderstylesarerelaxed,lessfitted,andgenerallyhavemoreroominthearmhole.

EASEreferstotheamountofspacebuiltintoapatternbeyondtheactualbodymeasurements.

EDGESTITCH.Withthemachinesetforstraightstitchingatalengthof2to2.5mmor10stitchesperinch,stitchwithin1/8"(3mm)ofafinishededge.Withmanymachines,thiscanbeachievedbyguidingtheinneredgeoftherightpresserfoottoealongtheouterfinishededge.

FACING.Afabricextensionoradditionthatissewnasabackingtoanotherpieceprotectsrawedgesorseamallowancesfromravelingandgivestheitemaneat,finishedappearance.Forinstance,ajacketfrontandnecklinehaveanouterlayerandanunderlayer,orfacing.

GATHER.Tworowsoflongmachinestitchesaresewnalongaseamline.Whenthebobbinthreadsarepulled,thefabricslidesalongthethreadsintotinytucks.Gathersareusedtofitawidegarmentsectiontoanarrowersectionwhileatthesametimeaddingshaping.

GRADING.Seamallowancesonfacededgesaretrimmedtograduatedwidthstoeliminateabulkyridge.Oftenthegarmentseamallowanceistrimmedto1/4"(6mm)andthefacingseamallowanceistrimmedto1/8"(3mm).

HEMMING.Theouteredgeofaprojectisgivenaneatfinishedappearancebyturningunderandsecuringtherawedgeinoneofseveralmethods.

LENGTHWISEGRAIN.Onwovenfabric,thelengthwisegrainrunsparalleltotheselvages.Fabricsaregenerallystrongerandmorestablealongthelengthwisegrain.

MARK.Itisoftennecessarytogiveyourselftemporaryguidelinesorguidepointsonthefabricforcutting,stitching,ormatchingseams.Therearemanytoolsandmethodsfordoingthis,suchasmarkingpencilsandpens,chalkdispensers,tape,orpins.

MITER.Excessfabricisfoldedoutatanangletoeliminatebulk.Youprobably

miterthecornerswhenyouwrapgifts.

NAP.Somefabricshavedefiniteupanddowndirections,eitherbecauseofasurfacepile,likecorduroyorvelveteen,orbecauseofaone-wayprint.Whenlayingoutapatternonnappedfabric,cutallthepieceswiththetopedgesfacingthesamedirection.

NONDIRECTIONALPRINT.Thedesignprintedonthisfabrichasnodefiniteupanddowndirections,andpatternpiecescanbelaidoutwiththetopedgesfacingineitherdirection.

PATCHPOCKETS.oneoftheeasiestpocketstylestosew,thesearesewntotheoutersurfaceofthegarmentlikeapatch.

PIVOT.Perfectcornersarestitchedbystoppingwiththeneedledowninthefabricattheexactcornerbeforeturning.Tobesurethecornerstitchlocks,turnthehand-wheeluntiltheneedlegoesallthewaydownandjustbeginstorise.Thenraisethepresserfoot,turnthefabric,lowerthepresserfoot,andcontinuestitching.

PRESHRINK.Fabricthatshrinks,especiallynaturalfibers,shrinksmostinthefirstlaundering.Ifyouintendtolaunderyourfinisheditemoccasionally,youshouldwashthefabricbeforecuttingoutthepieces,sotheitemwillnotshrinkafteryoumakeit.Drycleanonlyfabricscanbepreshrunkbysteamingthemwithyouriron.

PRESS.Thisstepisextremelyimportanttothesuccessofyoursewingprojects.Selecttheheatsettingappropriateforyourfabric,andusesteam.Liftandlowertheironinanoverlappingpattern.Donotslidetheirondowntheseam,asthiscancausethefabrictostretchoutofshape,especiallyonthecrosswisegrainorbias.

RIBBINGisaverystretchyknitfabric,usuallywithpronouncedridges.Itisespeciallysuitablefornecksandcuffsonknitgarments,sinceitcaneasilystretchtogooverheadsandhands,yetspringbackintoshapeonceinplace.Mostribbingcomesinmuchnarrowerwidthsthanotherfabricsand,becauseyouuselessofit,itisoftensoldbytheinch(centimeter)ratherthantheyard(meter).

RIBS.Correspondingtothelengthwisegraininwovenfabric,theribsofaknit

fabricrunparalleltotheselvages(ifthereareany).Knitsareusuallymoststableintheribdirection.

SEAM.Twopiecesoffabricareplacedrightsidestogetherandjoinedalongtheedgewithstitches.Afterstitching,therawedgesarehiddenonthewrongside,leavingaclean,smoothlineontherightside.

SEAMALLOWANCE.Narrowexcessfabricliesbetweenthestitchinglineandtherawedges.Thestandardseamallowancewidthforwoven-fabricgarmentsewingis5/8"(1.5cm);thestandardwidthforknit-fabricgarmentsis1/4"(6mm);thestandardwidthforhomedécorsewingis1/2"(1.3cm).Theseamallowancegivestheseamstrengthandensuresthatthestitchescannotbepulledofftherawedges.

SEAMALLOWANCEGUIDE.Mostmachineshaveaseriesoflinesonthethroatplate.Theselinesmarkthedistancefromtheneedle(whereastandardstraightstitchseamwouldbe)tothecutedges.Measuretheselinesonyourmachinetodeterminewheretheedgeofyourfabricshouldbeforthewidthseamyouarestitching.

SEAMRIPPER.Itdoesn’treallyrip.Usethesharppointtoslideunderandcutstitchesoneatatime.Avoidthetemptationtosimplyslidethecuttinghookdowntheseam.Youwillinevitablycutintoyourfabric.Eventhemostexperiencedsewersrelyontheirseamrippers.

SELVAGES.Characteristicofwovenfabrics,thisnarrow,tightlywovenouteredgeshouldbecutaway.Avoidthetemptationtouseitasonesideofacutpiece,asitmaycausetheseamtopuckerandmayshrinkexcessivelywhenlaundered.

TACKING.Shortstationarystitches,sewnbyhandorbymachine,holdtwoormorepiecesoffabrictogetheralittlelessconspicuouslythenarowofstitches.

THREADJAM.Thethreadsbecometangledupinawadontheundersideofthefabricandthemachinegetsstuck.Thebestwaytopreventathreadjamistoholdbothtopandbottomthreadtailstothebackorsideofthepresserfootuntilcompletingthefirstfewstitchesofaseam.Ifathreadjamhappens,DON’TUSEFORCE!Removethepresserfoot,ifyoucan.Snipallthethreadsyoucangetatfromthetopofthethroatplate.Openthebobbincasedoororthroatplate,andsnipanythreadsyoucangetat.Removethebobbin,ifyoucan.Gently

removethefabric.Thoroughlycleanoutthefeeddogandbobbinareabeforereinsertingthebobbinandstartingover.

TOPSTITCHINGisadecorativeandfunctionalstitchinglineplaced1/4"to1"(6mmto2.5cm)fromthefinishededgeofanitem.Thestitchingisdonewiththerightsideoftheitemfacingup.Sometimestopstitchingisdonewithaheavierthreadortwothreadsthroughthemachineneedle,tomakeitmorevisible.

UNDERSTITCHINGisstraightstitchingveryclosetotheseamlinethatconnectsafacingtothegarment,anditkeepsthefacingfromrollingtotheoutsideofthegarment.Aftertheseamallowancesaretrimmed,clipped,andpressedtowardthefacing,stitchfromtherightsideofthefacing.

Index

adjustmentline,32apronwithpockets,103–111

babyblanket,75–79backstitching,124ballpoints,12baste,72,124bastingtape,21beeswax,15betweens,14bias,22,124blanketbinding,21blindcatchstitch,52blindstitch,52bobbins,12threadtension,12,44–45winding,38–39

bodkin,19bodymeasurements,26built-instretchstitch,47button/buttonholeplacementmarks,33buttonholecutter,20buttonssew-through,50shank,51

casing,124chalk,37clip,124corners,68,69courses,124crewels,14

crosswisegrain,124cutting,36,54–55cuttingboards,19cuttinglines,33cuttingtools,17

decoratorfabricscutting,54–55matchingdesigns,56–57

designerfabrics,24designs,matching,56–57detailpositions,33double-foldhems,53,106,107double-needlehems,53double-stitchedseams,47dressmaker’sshears,17drop-shoulder,124

ease,124edgestitch,63,93,124elastics,19elastic-waistpants,89–95elastic-waistskirts,81–87embroideryfoot,13fabriccutting,36,54–55decorator,54–55designer,24fashion,24,25fibercontentof,22folding,34,35knit,23marking,37preparation,25selecting,22shoppingfor,24

woven,22fabricmarkingpens,16,37facing,124fashionfabrics,24,25fibercontent,22foldline,32

gather,124general-purposefoot,13gluesticks,20grading,124grainlines,22,32,54

handhems,52hand-sewingsupplies,14–15handstitches,48–51hemline,33hemming,124hems,52–53double-fold,53,106,107double-needle,53hand,52hemallowance,33,101machine,53markinglength,85

interfacing,19

jackets,unlined,113–123

knife-edgepillows,65–69knitfabrics,23knitskirts,86–87

lengthwisegrain,22,71,124liquidfraypreventer,20

machine-baste,72

machinehems,53marking,37,124markingchalk,16markingtools,16measuringtools,16milliner’sneedles,14miter,125multistitch-zigzagfinish,46

nap,34,125narrowmaskingtape,16narrowzigzagseam,47needlesinserting,38sewingmachine,12threading,41,48

needlethreaders,15needlethreadtension,44–45nondirectionalprint,125notches,33,36

pants,elastic-waist,89–95paper-backedfusibleweb,21patchpockets,125patternscatalogs,27determiningsize,26envelope,28–29features,30–31layout,32–35matching,56–57selecting,26–27symbols,32–33

pillows,knife-edge,65–69pincushions,15pinkingshears,17

pinning,34–35pinswithcoloredballheads,14insertingperpendiculartoedge,42,43quilting,14removing,43straight,14

pivot,125pointturner,20,69preshrink,125press,125presscloth,18presserfeet,13,76pressingham,18pressingtools,18printedon-grain,54,55projects,59–123apronwithpockets,103–111babyblanket,75–79elastic-waistpants,89–95elastic-waistskirts,81–87knife-edgepillows,65–69rectangulartablecloth,61–63T-shirts,97–101unlinedjackets,113–123zipperclosures,71–73

quiltingpins,14

rectangulartablecloth,61–63ribbing,99–100,125ribs,125rotarycutter,17ruler,16

scissors,17

seamallowance,17,36,42,46–47,125seamallowanceguide,42,125seamgauge,16seamlines,33seamripper,17,125seamroll,18seams,125double-stitched,47finishes,46sewing,42–43shoulder,98,99special,47stretch,47

self-adjustingtension,44selvages,22,125sewing,preparationfor,38–41sewingdirections,31sewingmachines,10–11accessories,12–13adjustingtension,45balancingtension,44–45insertingneedles,38needles,12presserfeet,13threadingthemachine,40–41windingthebobbin,38–39

sewingscissors,17sewingsupplies,14–18sew-throughbuttons,50shankbuttons,51sharppoints,12sharps,14shoulderseams,98,99single-foldbiastape,21sizedetermination,26skirts

elastic-waist,81–87knit,86–87

sleeveboard,18slipstitching,49,52special-purposefoot,13steam/sprayiron,18stitchedandpinkedfinish,46stitchesedgestitch,63,93,124handstitches,48–51slipstitching,49,52

stitchintheditch,85,111stitchlength,79straightpins,14stretchgauge,23stretchseams,47supplies,14–18cuttingtools,17hand-sewing,14–15measuringandmarkingtools,16pressingtools,18

symbols,pattern,32–33

tablecloth,61–63tacking,125Teflon-coatedsoleplateguard,18tensionadjusting,45balancing,44–45

thimble,15threadingthemachine,40–41threadjam,126toolscutting,17measuringandmarking,16pressing,18

specialproducts,19–21topstitching,126transparentruler,16transparentT-square,16T-shirts,97–101turnandzigzagfinish,46turntiesrightsideout,109

understitching,126universalpoints,12unlinedjackets,113–123

walkingfoot,13wovenfabrics,22

yardstick,16

zigzagfinish,46,57zipperclosures,71–73zipperfoot,13

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