First Chair Spring 2012

TransitionSFrom Classroom To Clinic To Salon

Essential Extensions

First Skills

A Day in the Life. . .

FIRSTCHAIR.COM A MODERN SALON PUBLICATION

spring 2012

ExtensionsBuild your clienteleand earn more moneyby learning extensions

SkillsDesign, color, esthetics, business

the Life. . . . . .of a successful new stylist

.com.comA Starter’s Guide to a Beautiful Career

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Empire FC_Cover_2012.indd 1 3/2/2012 10:32:47 AM

but we thought you might want to hear from your fellow stylists

www.facebook.com/GreatLengthsUSA(800) 999-0809

The Loft Salon Studio: The high standards and the length of the educational programs really help to set me up for success.

Katie Vitale Grither: The education class I took with Great Lengths 5 years ago was such a huge mass of extension information. My instructors were wonderful, hands-on, and so unbelievably knowledgeable about this product and the products that try to compete. I have been to many educational classes for all things hair related in my 12 years of being a licensed stylist and I can

Great Lengths cry;) It’s truly magic!

Got 2 get great lengths Hair w/ Hair Connections: Their education is bar none the best!

Sherri Kuniski: the education and technical support is above and beyond any other company I have experienced in my 20 years in the beauty industry. I have been fortunate enough to have built the bulk of my business doing Great Lengths extensions. Thank you Great Lengths team I couldn’t do it without you.

Stylists share their experiences on

© 2012 Eva Gabor® International, Ltd.

OUR HAIR ALWAYS SPEAKS FOR ITSELF

Turn a few pages to see our 2012 Certification Training Schedule

Once again, students and staff rise to the occa-

sion as Empire donates an entire day of profi ts

to the fi ght against domestic violence!

This year, nearly $40,000 was raised in a single

day during Empire’s annual National Day of Beauty.

Anti-domestic violence programs in 23 states

will benefi t from the funds raised on this special

day. Great job to all Empire Beauty School and Hair

Design School students on a job well done!

NATIONAL DAY

OF BEAUTY 2011

special EMPIRE edition: spring 2012 empire.edu e-1

NATIONAL DAY

special EMPIRE edition: spring 2012 empire.edu e-1e-1

Empire Beauty School in West Palm Beach, Florida was thrilled to take part in their fi rst ever National Day of Beauty.

A young customer gets a manicure while contributing to Empire’s National Day of Beauty.

Students at Empire Beauty School’s Wyoming Valley campus celebrate National Day of Beauty.

e-2 special EMPIRE edition: spring 2012 empire.eduspring 2012 empire.eduspring 2012 empire.edu

Students at Empire’s Morrow campus did such an outstanding job of pro-

moting their fundraising effort, other businesses wanted to get involved!Maria Ellis, who works at a nearby home improvement store, knitted 40 hand-made scarves to donate

to Haven House, Morrow’s adopted shelter, after speaking to one of the

students. Truly impressive!

Empire students in Arlington Heights, IL get ready to take clients during National Day of Beauty.

More than 900 Empire students and staff purchased Empire Gives Back t-shirts to raise money for the adopted shelters.


EMPIRE HONORED FOR EXCELLENCE IN EDUCATION!

Empire Education Group has been honored once again by Modern Salon Media with its Excellence in Education Awards!

Empire’s Masters of Beauty Skills Certifi cation Program has taken top prize once again in the category of Advanced Education/Alumni Programs.

Masters of Beauty was chosen as the overall honoree in this category in 2010 and again in 2011 for its hands-on, non-product specifi c classes, led by industry great Nick Arrojo and his team of master stylists.

Empire Education Group was also named an honoree in the category of Technol-ogy for its use of smart board technology, its exclusive CLiC Learning System, and top of the line tool kits.

Empire Beauty School ‘s Manhattan campus in the heart of New York City was honored in the category of School Culture. This category honors schools which excel at giving their students a great overall experience complete with opportunities to network in the professional industry.

Classroom in Empire Beauty School’s Spring-

fi eld, PA campus.

Empire’s Masters of Beauty Skills Certifi cation Program featuring Nick Arrojo

is 2-time Excellence in Education winner for Advanced Education.

U.S. CONGRESSMAN VISITS NW PHOENIX CAMPUS

e-4 special EMPIRE edition: spring 2012 empire.edu

U .S. Congressman Ben Quayle, representing the 3rd District of Arizona, recently toured Empire

Beauty School in NW Phoenix.Quayle, son of former Vice President

Dan Quayle, spent his time at Empire Beauty School visiting the student salon, several classrooms, and getting a fi rst-hand look at the cutting edge technology Empire offers its students.

Also during his visit, Quayle led a round table discussion with a panel of recent NW Phoenix graduates. The Congressman asked the graduates ques-tions about their education and how it prepared them for the workplace.

Quayle ended his visit with a short message to the entire student body!

U.S. CONGRESSMAN VISITS U.S. CONGRESSMAN VISITS U.S. CONGRESSMAN VISITS

U.S. Congressman Ben Quayle poses for a picture with recent NW Phoenix graduates.

Quayle talks with current NW students about the importance of education and access to student loans.

Great Lengths 2012 3-Day Certification Training Schedule

www.facebook.com/GreatLengthsUSA(800) 999-0809

© 2012 Eva Gabor® International, Ltd.

Mar. 11, 12 & 13Mar. 25, 26 & 27

Apr. 15, 16 & 17Apr. 29, 30 & May 1

May 6, 7 & 8 May 20, 21 & 22

June 10, 11 & 12June 24, 25 & 26

Los AngelesMiami

Las Vegas & AtlantaChicago

New YorkDallas

Los AngelesMiami

2012

Follow 6 recent beauty school graduates as they travel state to state,salon to salon, event to event learning from stylists, sharing their passion and spreading their love for our industry.

Matrix LLC, New York, NY 10017. All rights reserved. Printed in USA. 12/11 LG26757

Scan here or go to MyMatrixFamily.com/Loveand comment on any of the videos or blogsfor a chance to win.

Get a daily dose of Spread The Love and WIN weekly prizes!

NOTE .............................................................. 8

FIRST GLANCE ...................................... 10Student-submitted work; Spread the Love;

tips from the top; how beauty changes

lives; and more. FIRST VIEW ....................................... 20 Follow the career paths of educators

Kris Sorbie and Anthony Cole. See their time-lines to learn how they made it big,

and how you can, too!

FIRST SKILLSMaster the skills you need to build your own clientele. Visit fi rstchair.com for more articles on these topics.

• Design Men’s grooming; award-worthy hair;

disinfection reminders; thinning hair survey results.

• Color Bieber effect; color Q&A; zonal color; and more.

• Esthetics Spring nail trends; tarnished nail manicure;

healthy skin; and more.

• Services The long and short of extension education.

• Business Getting booked solid; take your career to

the next level.

FIRST PASSPORT ........................................................... 38Different cultures defi ne (and teach!) beauty in many ways. The cosmetology school experience in Ecuador.

SIGNATURE STYLE 56A message from industry icon Beth Minardi.

.comA Starter’s Guide to a Beautiful Career

spring 2012

Departments NOTE

FIRStu

tip

liv

FFF

Kri

timeand ho

FIRST SKILLSMaster the skills yVisit fi rstchair.com

• Design Men’s gro

disinfection remin

TransitionSFrom Classroom

To Clinic To Salon

Essential Extensions

First Skills

Student Submissions

A Day in the Life. . .

FIRSTCHAIR.COM A MODERN SALON PUBLICATION

spring 2012

ExteExtensioionssBuild your clienteleand earn more moneyby learning extensions

SkilS lsDesign, color, esthetics, business

missis onssYour work on

our pages

the Life. . . .. . .of a successful new stylist

.com.coA Starter’s Guide to a Beautiful Career

24

2832

34

FIRS

T SK

ILLS

36

contentscontents Features

A Day in the Life of a Successful New StylistHow three stylists successfully made the clinic-to-salon transition in three years or less. Read how Kelsey, Casey and Taylor make the most out of their careers.

49

Transitions From classroom, to clinic, to salonMoving from mannequin heads to talking heads is a world of difference. Here’s how to make the transition a smooth one.

4242

34page

49page

page

10

4 firstchair.com spring 2012 modernsalon.com

page

24

Ecuador

38.

56...........................................................

.com

EDITORIALAlison Shipley

Editor [email protected]

847-415-8084

Lauren Salapatek Associate Editor

[email protected] 847-415-8012

Contributing Writer Victoria Wurdinger

MANAGEMENTSteve Reiss

Vice President/Group Publisher [email protected]

847-634-4354

Michele Musgrove Associate Publisher & Editorial Director


Deborah Ogilvie Executive Managing Editor


PRODUCTIONDirector of ProductionThomas M. Fogarty

Senior Production ManagerJenny Barnette

Digital Ad ProcessorJeff [email protected]

A Starter’s Guide to a Beautiful Career

Modern Salon’s FirstChair is published three times a year by Vance Publishing Corp., 400 Knightsbridge Pkwy., Lincolnshire, IL 60069 (847) 634-2600. Modern Salon’s FirstChair accepts no responsibility for unsolicited materials. All statements, including product claims, are those of the person or organization making the statement or claim. The publisher does not adopt any such statement or claim as its own, and any such statement or claim does not necessarily refl ect the opinion of the publisher. First Chair is registered in the United States Patent and Trademark Offi ce. Copyright 2012

Chairman of the BoardWilliam C. Vance

PresidentPeggy Walker


ADVERTISINGWest Region

Gregg McConnell [email protected]

805-498-3475

Midwest RegionKatharine Cook


East RegionAngela Reich


Administrative AssistantSherry DelVecchio


CUSTOM PUBLISHINGDirector Custom Publishing Sales

Gregg McConnell [email protected]

CIRCULATIONDirector of Audience Development

Donna [email protected]

847-634-7891

Subscription Services800-808-2623

PRODUCTION QUESTIONS?Call Jenny Barnette 847-415-8005

[email protected]

or

m

nge

areer

er

Modern Salon’s FirstChaihair isr is pubpublishlished ted threehree timtimes a year by Vance Publishing Cor

sdel

CDire

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Dire

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PPPPROCall

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A

Are you a beauty and wellness educator

who would do anything for your students? Or do you know an educator like this?

If so, the AACS/CEA Educator of the Year Selection Com-

mittee wants to hear from you! The Nicholas F. Cimaglia

Educator of the Year Award is given annually to one educator

who exhibits the most signifi cant contribution toward

upgrading professional standards of educational excellence,

particularly within the area of student involvement, during

the past year. It is co-sponsored by the Cosmetology

Educators of America and Milady. To be considered for

the award, nominations must be received no later

than April 15, 2012. More information and the

application can be found at

tinyurl.com/6s8z6dj.

editor

Learn to Grow

Ah, spring! The season of transition, anticipa-tion. Plant, nurture, bloom, grow—this is the energy we bring to this Spring issue of First

Chair. We focus on the transition from student to profes-sional, and the growth cycle you experience throughout your cosmetology program and your career.

Remember your fi rst day? You probably put together your caddy of supplies, organized your cutting combs, found a spot to fi t your diffuser and sectioning clips. Then, almost overnight, you go from sitting in a chair in the classroom to standing behind a chair in the clinic. Then, the “really big change” begins: your fi rst client, your fi rst retail recommendations, your fi rst set of foils on a real person, not a mannequin. Time passes, and it’s on to phase two. You’re walking with confi dence to greet your guest, prescribing products with ease, no longer fl inching when you see your mannequin head in your car trunk. You realize you’ve even retained clients! Still, there’s more change ahead. Before you know it, you’re passing your State Boards, walking across a stage to accept your diploma, and entering the job market. You’ve fi nished another phase. But you’re back to “beginning” again, too. Like seasons in nature, learning in beauty never stops. To be successful, you must keep evolving. Even after you’ve earned your license, continuing education is a must. It’s okay to be nervous about what comes next. That’s the exciting part, the anticipation. In our industry, there’s always more to learn, more opportunities to master your craft, new options to explore, new services to add (eyelash enhancements or extensions for instance—see pages 33 and 34). To help you envision what’s next and what’s possible, I invite you to experience “a day in the life” of three successful new stylists, beginning on page 49. All are in-demand and taking control of their careers. Learn how they have worked—and plan to keep changing—to ensure their success and chart their growth. As you prepare to become a professional, be sure your transition plan includes simple steps you can take to immerse yourself in this industry. Be sure you join the 50,000 beauty pros who “like” MODERN SALON’s page on Facebook. It’s one easy way to stay connected to the world of beauty, and could even be your fi rst opportunity to get your work published. Throughout all of your career stages, I and the entire team at MODERN SALON Media wish you continued success, and thank you for making First Chair a part of your journey.

Good luck!

editor’s note

Sco

eer ss, and

P.S. Friend me on Facebook!

facebook.com/modern.alison

[email protected] 400 Knightsbridge Parkway Lincolnshire, Illinois 60069


NATIONAL RELEASE DATE: 2/8/12Model is wearing KISS ME ON MY TULIPS

CONTAINS NO DBP, TOLUENE, OR FORMALDEHYDEFor more information, contact your local OPI distributor.

Call 800.341.9999 ©2012 OPI Products Inc.12-piece display

COLORS FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: Did You ‘ear About Van Gogh?, Pedal Faster Suzi!, Kiss Me on My Tulips, Red Lights Ahead…Where?, A Roll in The Hague, Gouda Gouda Two Shoes, I Have a Herring Problem, Thanks a WindMillion,

I Don’t Give a Rotterdam!, Dutch ‘Ya Just Love OPI?, Vampsterdam, Wooden Shoe Like to Know?

FirstGlance

Student SubmissionsWant a place to showcase your latest work? Snap a photo of a client with a hair style or color that made you proud, submit a style from a hair competition OR submit an image from a recent photo-shoot to the Student Styles section of fi rstchair.com. Each week new styles are chosen to be posted on the website and on FIRST CHAIR’S Facebook page. What are you waiting for? Submit today!

Jahzel Montano, student at Paul Mitchell The School Atlanta, GA

Laura Holmes, student at Aveda Institute Corpus Christi, TX

Lizbeth Tapia, freelance stylist in East Stroudsburg, PA

Lizbeth Tapia, freelance stylist in East Stroudsburg, PA

Diosmary Estevez, Diosmary’s Salon in Bronx, NY

Ashlee Morrow, Salon Success Academy in Riverside, CA

With today’s multi-tasking culture craze, being able to create looks that can easily go from day into evening is crucial for stylists to master. The day look should be more understated without a lot of fuss. Then, for an easy way for your clients to take that look into the evening, add a punch of color to the style with a headband or clip that complements her fashion, says Mireya Villarreal, Lead Designer for Pink Pewter, makers of high-fashion hair accessories. “When trying different looks for your clients, don’t be afraid to double-up thin headbands or place multiple fl ower clips in their hair, even if they’re dif-ferent colors. Just keep them close together, so the look stays neat and not ‘fl ower child,’” Villarreal says. “Right now, the trend is ‘undone’ updos. To keep the look elegant, top off updos with bejeweled or embel-lished hair accessories. The accessories make the look fresh, fun and elegant.”

Take advan-

tage of your new

professional status

and reap the benefi ts

of a CosmoProf ProClub

membership. It’s free (yes,

free!) and there’s tons of

perks to being a member. You get advanced

notifi cation of sales and promos (customized for you), early

notice of shows and classes, members-only coupons and

monthly e-letters—plus the added bonus of being a part of

a community of beauty industry pros. To join all you need is

verifi cation of your professional license or proof that you’re

in cosmetology school, submit your completed application

at your nearby CosmoProf store, and complete and sign

a Professional Purchase Agreement stating that, as

a member, you join in the fi ght against product

diversion. Visit proclubmembers.com to sign

up—and start saving!

Discounts, Rewards

Rewards and Coupons!

Taktag

p

perks to bei

i n of sales and pr

Di

modernsalon.com spring 2012 firstchair.com 11

Scan with your smartphone to hear from Matrix VP/General Manager Colin Walsh on the importance of Spread the Love.

ALL YOU NEED IS LOVEMeet the winners of MatrixSpread the Love 2012!

These six recent grads are sharing their journey of a lifetime as they travel to different states, salons and events, exploring the coun-try, connecting with stylists and learning the ins and outs of the profes-sional beauty industry. Each week, the teams of two visit and work with salons, attend beauty shows and take in all facets of the industry, including education from their Matrix Artistic Direc-tor mentors. They learn new technical skills, salon business practices, and the special ways salons touch their commu-nities—all in exchange for blogging and documenting their experience on mymatrixfamily.com.

Clockwise from top:Natalie Fox, 23, Kohler Academy, Scottsdale, AZ

Todd Kane, 43, Kohler Academy, Scottsdale, AZ

Suzy Henningsgard, 26, Aveda Institute, Minneapolis, MN

Timmy Willy, 21, Lafayette Beauty Academy, Lafayette, IN

Joshua Falewitch, 21, Xenon International Academy, Omaha, NE

Meredith Tye, 25, Caldwell County Community College and

Technical Institute, Hudson, NC

Cosmetology students have the ability to be savvier than ever with regard to taking control of their fi nancial destiny—through technol-ogy. Schools teach the business side of beauty along with the tech-niques and practical application knowledge new stylists will need to succeed. These numbers needed for success are easily tracked

through the use of technology and computer software—unless you like spending hours or days a month to generate the numbers and, by then, it’s too late to affect them! Learning what to expect out of salon software will make you a dangerous—as my friend Robert Cromeans loves to say—and powerful new stylist when you get on

the fl oor for the fi rst time.What are some of the numbers and features that are important to understand as you near graduation?

5 key growth indicators:1. New Clients Per Month Are you generating new guests and referrals?

2. New Client Retention Are you keeping new clients so they come back at least a second time?

3. Repeat Client Retention How are your services and reputation? Are your existing clients getting what they need so they stay?

4. Frequency of Visit This is one of the most important aspects of a new stylist’s career. Getting people in more often by prebooking.

5. Average Ticket Are you upselling services and adding on retail items?

If you know these numbers or add them to your resume I guarantee you will impress a potential salon manager or owner. You are in control of your paycheck and technology can give you the numbers you need in-the-moment to meet goals and build a full book of happy clients who come in frequently and spend more! Put your software and technology to work for you on a daily basis and use it to change your future.

When making a decision about a career opportunity, it is important to un-derstand the expectations of the salon. Recent graduates should do initial research on the potential salon employer as they prepare for the interview process. This will give you an understanding of the salon services offered, hours of operation and other information so you can prepare for the interview. Let the employer know from the very beginning you are a potential employee who is a team player, has a strong work ethic and is motivated and passion-ate to learn. Employers need to know how a potential employee will market themselves to build a clientele, work in the salon toward the common goal of delivering fi rst-rate customer service. New stylists should be open to new

experiences, ideas and challenges. Find a mentor who can help you create realistic goals about your career accomplishments and never stop learning.

—Dorothy McKinley-Soressi, Vice President, Industry Relations, Empire Education Group

—John Harms, Founder, CEO, Millennium Salon Software


FirstGlance

Wendi Levy and Kim EtheredgeFounders of Mixed Chicks

It is imperative to remember education should not cease once you receive your cosmetology license. We suggest attending trade shows—many of them offer classes at no or minimal costs with the purchase of a ticket. Check your local professional beauty supply stores like CosmoProf—they are excel-lent sources for continuing education. You will fi nd a host of courses offered by different manufacturers usually listed in their monthly catalogues. You can even contact product companies that special-ize in manufacturing styling tools and implements geared toward textured hair di-rectly to see if they too, offer any continuing education or product knowledwge classes. Many grant CEC hours, of-ten required by states when renew-ing your cosmetology license. Just remember that your options in the fi eld of hair care are limitless. Soak up all of the information and education you can, one day some-one will look to you for advice and guidance. Be ready to pay it for-ward!

e --

s.

-

I remember graduating cosmetology school with all that energy and excitement, and though cosmetology school teaches the fundamentals and a great foundation for the industry, they can’t teach you everything to truly succeed in this business. All graduating students need to research salons to see if they of-

fer an apprentice program, or additional educational classes. Once they receive their license they should always reach out to

any educational event that will keep them sharp, and updated on new trends. Having a great salon mentor will make new grads even more confi dent and keep that fi re burning so they will succeed and

never loose that energy!

—Dixie Russell, Manager, CHI Schools Program

The best way for a student to take care of their career af-ter graduating is to know what they want to achieve, then make a plan to reach that goal. For example, if you want to be a master colorist, fi nd a salon or stylist who specializes in color to work with as an assistant, take classes to learn new techniques and technologies, join competitions, and practice, practice, practice.

Get a mentor. Get connected with someone who knows what you want to know, is where you want to be and is doing what you want to do. Get some practice. Cut anyone and everyone who will sit still long enough to let you. Volume teaches big lessons. Education does not stop at graduation. It is just the beginning of learning in the beauty industry.

—Tracey Bell, Business Manager, Fromm International

—Ivan Zoot, Director of Education and Customer Engagement, Andis Company

from industry photographer Roberto Ligresti

an

from industry photographer Roberto Ligresti

y py p5 Photoshoot Tips

1. Not everyone is born with the right amount of hair to perfectly achieve your vision. Although it’s important to know how to work with existing hair, sometimes hairpieces and extensions can assist in executing your concept. Remember to bring extra hair pieces in case you end up needing it.

2. Try to ask for your photographer’s feedback before booking a model for a shoot. I cannot stress enough how important that is, and how rarely that occurs! Often, the stylist is so focused on the model’s hair, he or she can forget to look at the facial structure of the model. I once did a shoot where the stylist limited herself in choosing only models with platinum blonde hair. I arrived on set not knowing who the models were going to be and there I saw a group of very uninteresting looking women. The platinum hair ended up being covered by lace-front wigs and I was stuck with models I would have never chosen, wearing wigs. Not good.

3. Make sure to look at the facial structure of the model. Everyone has a side wider than the other and a more prominent cheekbone. An experienced model will tell you which side of the face she likes to ‘work’ but make sure to ask her; and if possible, part the hair on the opposite side, so when she moves toward her favorite angle her face shows more.

4. Don’t spend too much time on set working on the model and interrupting the fl ow of the session to fi x something that can be easily corrected in postproduction. Look at the computer monitor and make the hair adjustments accordingly.

5. Most importantly remember you are part of a team and everyone on set has the same goal of creating the best image possible!

A student becomes a master at their craft by always keeping the learning mindset. Every day be open to learning some-thing new no matter what your age or how long you are in your craft. The essential key is to put into action what you learned in order to grow and move forward. When you are green, you’re growing, when you’re ripe you rot.

—Dennis Bernard Campanaro, President, Dennis Bernard Inc.

After graduation, students should try to get hired by salons that have mentoring programs and offer advanced education in all aspects of the business—both theory and practical. They should also attend as many trade shows as possible that offer education. Another approach is to apply to work part-time for manufacturers who can teach presentation and technical skills.

—Jeff Schwartz, Vice President of Sales, The Cricket Company


FirstGlanceFF

“Istarted stuttering when I was four and a half

years old. It would sometimes take me sever-

al minutes just to say my own name. Growing

up, I felt inferior to other people, standing out

for all the wrong reasons. I used to try and overcompen-

sate for my stuttering, wanting to be liked and accepted.

I missed out on so much in my childhood and teenage

years, suffering much rejection and ridicule. Kids were

tough on me and teachers ignored me when I tried to ask

a question in class. Later, job interviews challenged and

frustrated me.

“My school counselor, Sue, always believed in me even

when others doubted my ability. Sue suggested a career

in the arts, fashion or beauty industry, as she could see,

although I couldn’t speak very well, I was very gifted and

creative in those areas.

“I eventually got an interview and secured a position

as an assistant hairdresser at the world-famous Vidal

Sassoon salons. I grabbed my opportunity with

Sassoon and began a successful international

career with them and later owned several

award-winning salons in England, where I

was born. When other industries and profes-

sions laughed at me and would not even give

me the time of day, the beauty industry em-

braced and welcomed me with open arms,

judging me on talent and attitude—not on

the way I spoke, but what I contributed.

“I have been involved in our

great industry for 25 years and

have enjoyed fantastic times

and met the most incred-

ible people. This indus-

try is diverse, welcom-

ing, exciting and offers

so many variations to a

wonderful and reward-

ing career. There is no

industry like it.

“I did eventually get my speech together. It took

me many years but, through the help of some fantastic

speech therapists and experts, I now control my speech

instead of it controlling me. Today, I make my career as a

professional speaker both within and outside the beauty

industry. It is ironic that my speech once was my greatest

enemy; now it’s my friend and greatest asset.”

Charles Marcus’ lessons learned:

1 When someone gives you an

opportunity, grab it and don’t

look back.

2Always have a strong work

ethic, there is no substitute for

hard work.

3Life is not about deserve, life is

about desire; how much do you

want it?

4 Don’t just focus on being

successful, focus on being

signifi cant, making a difference

in people’s lives.

5 The beauty industry will take

you as far as you want to

go and can fulfi ll all of your

dreams. Go for it and enjoy

the journey!

The American Association of Cosmetology Schools is a network of more than 900 schools dedi-cated to providing excellence in beauty education, and to champion a message of “Beauty Changes Lives.” Discover how beauty changed the life of Charles Marcus, who overcame a 25-year severe stuttering disability with the help of the professional beauty industry. Share your own journey with Editor Alison Shipley, [email protected]—your story could appear here!

14 firstchair.com spring 2012

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FirstGlanceFF

Hairdressers Against AidsIn 2010, L’Oréal partnered with the United Nations to create a world-

wide education initiative, L’Oréal Hairdressers Against Aids, based on

a program that started in South Africa 10 years earlier with Mizani. By

2009, Hairdressers Against Aids was in dozens of countries around the

world, but not yet in the U.S.

Last year, I had the honor, along with 500 other hairdressers, to go

to the UN and hear top scientists, activists and AIDS educators from

around the world. In addition to the knowledge they shared, it was

their understanding that if we hairdressers use our voice and power,

we can create a beautiful world without AIDS—empowering people

to get tested, stay HIV negative—or if HIV positive, know where to get

treatment to live a better life and understand prevention.

In 2010 on World AIDS Day, L’Oréal/UN Hairdressers Against AIDS

again mobilized, but instead of descending on the streets of Manhat-

tan, we fanned out across the country and visited beauty schools. I

had the opportunity to return to Middlesex County Vo-Tech system,

where I graduated from their East Brunswick Adult Cosmetology Pro-

gram. I visited Debra Ciesielski’s class on the Piscataway Campus and

it was really special because we had graduated together 26 years ago.

Our day began with an assembly sharing the facts and myths

about AIDS and, based on our feedback, it was amazing how much

misinformation is out there. After the assembly, I spent the rest of

the day with the students sharing ideas about hair color. What struck

both Debra and I the most was the amount of students who told us

it was the fi rst time anyone had ever talked to them about

AIDS, and gave them the facts.

Beauty school is a ticket out for most of these students—

they don’t have strong support systems. Many have family

members in jail or on drugs, get pregnant in their teens and

struggle with the negative forces in their community.

Beauty school is their safe place. A place where they can

not only learn skills to support themselves and create in-

dependence and fi nancial security, but a place where they

can also turn to for social and personal guidance that helps

build confi dence, success and freedom.

Having the tools and education to help others who may

not be as informed about issues as serious as AIDS pre-

vention empowers you, as the professional, to spread the

world. Beauty truly can change lives.

Rock The PurpleWe share and hear so many intimate, exciting, and some-

times tragic, glimpses into lives that many times no one

else knows. When I was just beginning my career as a

hairdresser, I learned from one of my guests that she was a victim of

abuse, and the salon was the only place her husband allowed her to

go without him—and that is the case for others as well. Our industry

is harvesting our power and the unique relationship we have with

our guests and Cutting Out Domestic Abuse. I work with the Purple

Ribbon Council and we’ve partnered with the Hard Rock Cafe to cre-

ate Rock The Purple which takes place at Hard Rock Cafés across

the country—pairing live music and hairdressers to raise awareness

for domestic abuse; where to get help, how to stay safe and what

to do in an abusive relationship. It is always an amazing night and

thanks to So.Cap USA, hundreds of people leave the Rock The Purple

events “rocking” purple extensions—beauty and change.

Your Chair is a Chair Of ChangeIt is amazing how much power the chairs we stand behind have, that’s

why Matrix created Chairs Of Change. We do so much for others, but

there was never a platform to celebrate the positive changes hair-

dressers make on a daily basis. The funny part about making a posi-

tive impact is the more people who know about it, the more support

we get and the more good we can do. So, whether it’s a personal

change like giving up smoking or saving for education, a professional

change like a cut-a-thon that benefi ts others, or a national/worldwide

change like Hairdressers Against AIDS and Rock The Purple, you can

fi nd the support, get the help you need or get involved in making the

changes you wish to see in the world at chairsofchange.com.


Owner, Patrick McIvor Color Studio, Bethlehem,

Pennsylvania and Matrix Artistic Color Director

Most people go to work and come

home without ever creating beauty

or change. Hairdressers are some of

the luckiest professionals; we create

beauty and change everyday!

Joins Shyloks Hair Salon, Kingston, UK, and has fi rst taste of being an educator on

a stage, sharing techniques she had designed. “Finally

I was home—I had fallen in love with educating and giving back.”

is recognized as a leader in hair color concepts and techniques,

and a master in the fi eld of long hair styling and fi nishing. In-

tegrating her years of diverse experience as an art director,

color consultant, video producer and Redken Exchange fa-

cilitator, Sorbie brings innovative trends and fashion-forward

artistry to the forefront of the salon industry.

Baby Kris and Mum.

FirstView

Kris Sorbie

19

72


Sorbie in garden wearing her mother’s shoes.

1960 '7 years old and I had already decided I was done with school because I wanted to be a hairdresser”

1966

After a 2-year course in Gentlemen’s Barbering, Ladies Hair-dressing and Beauty Culture, graduates from Chiswick Polytech-nic, London. Within one year, has 10 jobs at different salons. “My Mom thought I was unemployable—all I knew was I had to fi nd the right salon, one where I felt I belonged, although at the time I had no idea what that actually meant.”

1973

Sorb

ie in

197

3 w

ith h

er “

Box

Bob

.”

At 14, Sorbie lands her fi rst salon job at Vit-torio’s Salon, Putney, London where they al-lowed her to apply color to clients. “My confi -dence at that time was through the roof,” she says. “I believed I could do it until I dropped the visor of a hood dryer on a client’s nose, which instantly swelled and it was her wedding day!”

Launches MembersOnly, an interactive, online learning tool with a monthly, new hair color technique, a long hair up-styling video every four weeks, a weekly inspirational image to ignite creativity and

daily tips on business, branding and

more.

Moves from London to New York and becomes the Global Artistic Director of Color for Redken 5th Ave.

2000

Sorbie on stage at Redken Symposium.

Invited to do the international segment of HairColor USA in Miami. She creates striped and checkerboard ponytails on twin models. “Later I was shocked to hear I had won Most Inspirational Educator Award!”

HairColor USA models pose with Sorbie.

Sorbie wins Most Inspirational Educator.

1996 Trevor Sorbie asks her to color a wig to resemble British Camoufl age for the Best of Trevor Sorbie as part of a L’Oréal Show in London. “It was an amazing period in my career when I was working with incredible talent like Trevor, Angelo Seminara, Eugene Souleiman and Antoinette Beenders.” 1998

1TttaawlS

2004Participates in the Alternative Hair Show.

Sorbie’s Avant Garde Show.

Begins own company, Kris Sorbie LLC, where she develops the B-Ing Where You Want To B DVD.

2009

1998Compiles Visions in Hair, a pictorial book honoring Trev-or Sorbie’s career. “I wanted testimonials for the inside cov-er, so called on all our friends in the industry. It’s so impor-tant to surround yourself with like-minded people.”

Sorbie with industry icons Anthony Mascolo

(and wife Pat) and Keith Harris.

SorbiGar

2002Wins Master Hairstylist of the year at the North American Hairstyling Awards. Sorbie and Redken’s Chris Baran win at NAHA.

Launches Meman interactive,learning tool wmonthly, new htechnique, a lonup-styling videfour weeks, a winspirational imignite creativit

daily tips on bbrand

mo

2010Launches the Bespoke Color and Bespoke Long Hair, Up Styling hands-on programs around the country.

Sorbie in action.

2011

A fi nished look. Find the tutorial on MembersOnly.

2012 Learns she is a fi nalist in NAHA’s Master Hairstylist and Avant Garde categories.Photography: Nico Iliev

Sebastian Professional Stylist Design Team member Anthony Cole

stays motivated and passionate about the beauty industry by stay-

ing focused on his goals: do what he loves. As a Design Team mem-

ber, Cole participates in editorial photoshoots, works backstage at

New York Fashion Week, and educates, travels and inspires his team.

“My goal every day is to excite people and inspire them to step out

of the box,” Cole says. “Education has always been a strong founda-

tion for me. I have spent much of my time traveling to different

parts of the world to be inspired by all cultures.” Sebastian,

Cole says, was the fi rst to inspire him to become an

educator. “From that point forward, I have dedicated

myself to education and inspiring others.”

At 17, Cole realizes he wants to become a stylist. “I saw hair styling as a way to ex-press myself,” he says.

FirstView

22 firstchair.com spring 2012

Anthony Cole

1966: October 23, Anthony Cole is born.

1982

Attends the UK’s Vidal Sassoon Academy. “This really let me tune into my cutting techniques

and built my confi dence in cutting—and made me realize I wanted to become an educator.”

1983 1984

1987

Graduates from Ultissima Beauty School.

Gets his fi rst chair at Sans Egal salon. “Working with clients allowed me to really expand my creativity.”

photo: B

ill Knap

p


19

96

Opens his own salon which he owned for 9 years. “But, I realized I missed being on the road inspiring and educating.”

At age 30, does his fi rst International Coiffure show, where he realizes his desire to become a platform artist.

19

98 Becomes an educator for Sebastian

Professional. “Sebastian helped me as a stylist and educator to think my way out of the box, look at things in a new and unconventional way, which then allowed me to expand my artistry.”

1999 Begins educating again for Sebastian. Meets Sebastian artist Thomas Dunkin, and begins working with him at New York Fashion Week and feeling inspired by his editorial work. “I realized I wanted to grow my career even further as an edito-rial stylist. Since then I’ve been working with many magazines internationally.”

2008

Cole working backstage at New York Fashion Week as part of the Sebastian Professional team.

Becomes an offi cial International Core Team Member for Sebastian. “In this role I’m able to share my creative energy with the world and receive inspiration from different cultures’ fashion and styling techniques.

2009 Becomes a member of Sebastian’s Core Team, where he can teach and inspire—his two favorite things.

Cole at Intercoiffure, on stage educating.

2011

Cole as a member of the International Core Team for Sebastian.

2012: New York Fashion Week.

Actress Ashley Greene attends Loveisrespect’s ‘Louder Than Words’ Launch Party.

Photo by Valerie Macon/Getty Images

Swept away: Some of

the most popular special oc-

casion hair trends have tress-

es styled to the side. Whether

it’s a low side chignon, a loose

braid, or hair styled into glam-

orous waves, side-swept hair

adds an element of drama

to any look. It works with a

range of styles and lengths,

and can be used on straight or

textured styles. The side-swept

style should depict undone

sophistication with a touch

of glamour and softness.

Jennifer Hudson attends the amfAR New York Gala To Kick Off Fall 2012 Fashion Week.

Photo by Jason Kempin/WireImage

Crimped: For a modern,

youthful look, crimped hair

is making a huge comeback.

Crimping adds texture and

volume to any design.

Michelle Williams at the Gold-en Globes wore a headband with a jeweled brooch.

Photo by Michael Tran FilmMagic

Accessorize: Embellished

headbands, hairpins, bar-

rettes, and other jeweled

accessories add a fun and

glamorous touch to any

style. The best accessories

are not only pretty, but func-

tional as they help hold hair

in place. If hair is worn in a

short style, hair accessories

will add instant glamour and

femininity to the look.

Actress Charlize Theron at the17th Annual Critics Choice Movie Awards.

Photo by Jon Kopaloff/FilmMagic

Dressy Buns: The bun is

a simple style—both elegant

and feminine—but can

be modernized and made

youthful with a few simple

tricks. Add drama to low and

loose buns with face-fram-

ing pieces or a deep side

part. A trendy take on this

classic is to weave a braided

fringe into the style. Top

knots are essentially buns

placed high on the head. To

create this high-impact style,

pull the hair high and tight

to the crown, securing into

a large, texturized bun. Top

knots can be both smooth

and sleek or funky and fun.

Kristen Stewart at The Twi-light Saga: Breaking Dawn Part 1 UK Premiere.

Photo by Jon Furniss/WireImage

Half updos: This versa-

tile style is the best of

both worlds. Although the

front—which is pulled up—

complements the face, this

style still allows length and

texture to steal the show.

This is a great alternative

for long- or mid-length hair

and has a youthful, elegant

appeal.

Award-Worthy Hair

Award-Worthy Hair

1. Dressy buns

2. Half updos

3. Swept away

4. Crimped

5. Accessorize

Follow MODERN SALON

on Pinterest for more award-worthy looks:

pinterest.com/modernsalon

yAwards season is among us and though your clients may not get an invitation to hit the red carpet,

there’s no reason they can’t have award-worthy hair at their viewing party. For the latest in styles,

Pam Kelly, National Director of Technical Services for Fantastic Sams Salons, reveals her favorite red

carpet-worthy styles that will be sure to turn heads.

FirstSkills

24 fi rstchair.com spring 2012 modernsalon.com

Aw

on

waAw

n

Keeping you and your clients

safe through proper sanitation and disinfection procedures is cru-cial for a healthy salon environ-

ment. National Director of Education

and Market Development for Barbicide Leslie Roste, a registered

nurse, provides simple tips that will keep your station and tools clean, safe and never a health risk for you or your clients. For more information on practicing proper sanitation, visit barbicide.com.

1. Always know your state laws regarding infection control. What’s required in one state, may be illegal in another. For your state’s laws, go to barbicide.com, and click on “education center.”

2. Always clean items before disinfecting—this can be done with a commercial cleaner or plain soap and water.

3. Always mix disinfectants according to the label—this assures you have the right amount of concentrate to do the job without wasting any product. If the disinfectant is too concentrated, you can even risk damaging your tools.

4. Always know the contact time for your disinfectant—that is the amount of time required for items to be in contact with a dis-infectant for it to be effective against germs.

5. Always change your disinfectant accord-ing to your state’s laws and manufacturer’s instructions. The longer it sits, and the dirtier the liquid is, the less effective it can be in preventing infection.

eepingand youclients

safe througproper sanitaand disinfectprocedures icial for a hesalon envir

ment. NationDirector of Educatio

and Market DevelopmenevelopmenBarbicide Leslie Roe Roste, a regi

nurse, provides simpleple tips that will your station and tools s clean, safe and ne

Thinning hair concerns are often associated with male clients. But, Nioxin recently conducted a survey of women between the ages of 18 and 55 and, somewhat surprisingly, the results showed thinning hair is the second-most worrisome sign of aging among American women, second only to wrinkles. What does that mean for you, the professional? Opportu-nities to not only relieve the thinning hair fear your female clients face, but also additional dollars in your pocket if you can provide full, healthy hair for your clients, no matter her age. Still not convinced?

Here are some more stats the survey determined:

Would You Rather…?When asked what they would sacrifi ce for 30 days in exchange for thicker, fuller hair, many of women’s most prized possessions went by the wayside.• 57% of respondents would forego coffee• 50% would sacrifi ce their favorite food• 34% would give up changing their bedsheets• 6% would stop brushing their teeth

Appearance• 91% of survey participants feel men are more attracted to women with long, healthy hair• 68% of women are seeing more hair on their hairbrush, shower drain and fl oor than usual• 87% feel their hair is a part of their personality

Prevention and Treatment• 75% of respondents experience thinning hair and 84% fi nd it important to take measures to prevent thinning hair• 65% have tried to make their hair appear fuller, and 47% of those women were unsuccessful in fi nding an effective hair thickening treatment• 87% trust their hair stylists for advice on thinning hair treatments

What You Can DoStay on top of what you can offer your clients at the salon and at home to help prevent and treat thinning hair concerns—whether that’s a scalp dermabrasion service to remove build-up around hair follicles, an at-home maintenance program after they leave your chair to continue to promote a healthy scalp environment, retail products to reduce the effects of thinning hair, or even more advanced treatments like lasers to encourage new growth. Remember, it is your job as the professional to be the expert.

Disinfection Tips

DesignDesign


Let’s face it:cutting men’s hair isn’t

always as easy at it looks. It takes time, practice and continuing education to become comfortable in the art

of men’s grooming. Master Barber Greg Zorian, founder of the Gregory’s Barbershops in upstate New York, is a third generation barber—and is an expert in the fi eld of men’s grooming. First Chair

asked Zorian, who developed the Masters of Barbering online educational program, his advice for beauty grads to become successful men’s groomers.

“You Play Like You Practice” This is a direct quote from my high school football coach and it is so true. Practice is everything. The best at anything in life are the best because they are never satisfi ed and continue to practice. Make sure to get extra repetitions on hair cuts or services you are the most uncomfort-able doing when you are in school. If you are out of school, offer free services when you are not on the book or on the clock. Once you get these services down in practice you will be able to duplicate them on a paying client.

Don’t Cut Hair by Numbers When giving a clipper cut, it is much more professional to refer to the different attachments by measurement than by number. For example: Explaining the hair cut as a three-fi nger high ½” taper sounds more professional than, “you get a number 3 clipper cut.” When a client is not educated and asks for a “number 3” cut, it does not tell you how high he wants the taper or if he likes skin showing or complete scalp coverage. Additionally, attachments do not have a universal numbering system. A number 1 attachment may be the longest for one brand and the shortest for another. There are also attach-ments that just have the measurement listed on them without a number.

Scissor-over-Comb: Scissor-over-comb is the secret weapon in men’s hair cutting—it is the oldest and best technique. There was a time when the electric clipper did not exist and all cutting was done with different-sized combs, scissors and straight razors. Clients associate a higher level of skill with this tech-nique, instead of just putting an attachment on a clipper and running a number 3 up the sides. This is a great way to show your clients you have a superior skill level and take a lot of pride in your hair cuts.

If You Don’t Make a Weight Line You Won’t Have to Blend it Out: This has to be the most debated topic in men’s hair cutting. When cutting any type of faded or graduated cut it is much easier to blend from longer to shorter. By cutting the hair in this manner you will never leave a weight line or hard line of demarcation that is very diffi cult and time consuming to blend out. Begin on the top and work down from the longest to shortest lengths. This works with a clipper and attachments or different-length combs with the scissor/clipper-over-comb cutting technique. Your effi ciency and quality of cuts will increase tremendously when cutting in this manner.

It is Only a Cowlick if Cut Too Short An entire book could be written on the differ-ent types of cowlicks and how to deal with them. The most important thing to remember is it is only a cowlick if it is cut too short. This may sound over simplifi ed but if you don’t cut the hair too short in the crown or the pivot area the hair will not stick up. Take the extra time combing or brushing through the hair before you begin cutting to get a feel for the natural fall of the hair. This will determine how short you can cut the hair on the top section and how high the hair can be tapered on the sides and in the back.

Dress for Success This applies to students as well as industry professionals. Your image is everything. We are in a grooming business—clients come to you for your services because they want to look and feel better. The more put together and professional you look the more confi dence the client will have in you. Your hair should be done every day for school or work as well as your make-up—before you get there. Your clothes should be ironed and always professional. Fellow students, co-workers, teachers and clients will all notice you take pride in your chosen profession.

Greet Your Client with Confi dence Everyone wants to feel welcome and impor-tant. The best and only way to do this correctly is to greet your client by name with a handshake and a smile every time they are in for a service. This tells them you care about them personally and value their business. We are in the customer-service business as well as the beauty industry. Clients become repeat clients be-cause of the way they are treated just as much as they do for the quality of the service they are receiving. In a business where there is a lot of competition we need every edge we can get.

Male Enhancement

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DESIGNFirstSkills DesignDesign

Photos: Getty Images

FirstSkills


1. Lots of cut-in texture shows off subtle lowlights through the fringe of a rich, dark brown. (Hair by the Identity Salon Educational Team, Identity Hair Salons and Spas, Cincinnati, OH.) 2. A textured top is perfect for blonde edging along the front, where it accents the sideswept fringe. (Hair by Teresa McGaha, Mouton’s Salon, Grapevine, TX.) 3. Super-strong shapes and geometric fringes are perfect for cold, metallic, lacquered black. (Hair by Stefan Herz, Herz Hair Design in Ottweiler, Germany.) 4. A client with warm eyes can sport warmer hues if placed in the fringe. Cooler coloring in the rest of the hair keeps the overall effect just right. (Hair by PK Design Team, Paul Kenneth Salon, Woburn, MA.)

Photography: Tom Carson Production: Global Hair and Fashion Group

When it comes to guys’ color, it’s all about the full fringe. With younger men embracing longer looks (but never admitting they’re stealing Justin Bieber’s style), it’s the pe rfect place for a shady accent—from subtle and dark to the-atrically light and bright. Just be sure to keep the color on the cool side. Even when older men are camoufl aging unpigmented hair—never say gray—color the base but leave the ends natural. Otherwise, ends risk going too warm. In opposition to women, who might color fi rst, men typically adapt the color to the cut. These looks from salons across the globe show how it’s done.

2.

3.

4.

1.

ColorColor


William De Ridder, owner of De Ridder International and De Ridder Academy, in Bruges, Belgium, created these looks by emphasizing the perimeters. Level-9 blondes look great with geometric cuts that are creatively color-edged. Artistic Director for Intercoiffure, Belgium, De Ridder partnered with Esani Institute, an Atlanta Paul Mitchell Partner School, to bring these trends and advanced education to the U.S.

Color HappyColor HappyStrong shapes with soft texture can go from classic to over-the-edge when you add bright colors to the mix.

Photography: Pat Verbruggen

MODERN SALON’s Facebook community of 50,000 fans continues to grow by the minute. Not only because of the work, inspiration and education we share, but largely because of the work, inspiration and education you share!

MODERN SALON posted the question:

“You know you’re a hair stylist when _________” and the comments came fl ooding in—nearly 600 replies, and all of them were hilarious. Check out some of our favorite responses to:

“you know you’re a colorist when __________.”


DESIGNFirstSkills ColorColor

You’ve got questions, Beth has answers! In this ongoing series in MODERN SALON, Facebook fans share their color conundrums with Beth Minardi, award-winning colorist, NYC salon owner and spokesperson for Joico Vero K-Pak color. When you spot the Color Social post on MODERN’s Facebook page (facebook.com/modernsalon), share your color challenges!

Q: How do you take a platinum blonde to a darker blonde without the hair turning gray, slate or steel-colored?A: “Never apply an ‘allover’ toner,” says Minardi. “In-stead lowlight with a conditioning, non-ammonia demi-permanent shade. Omit some of the ends of the hair lengths as you paint. Mix a light, golden-blonde shade with a lightest neutral blonde in equal proportions. I paint a pre-wash creme treatment onto the hair between foils to protect and to prevent porous hair lengths from ‘grabbing’ toner.”

Q: What is your favorite lowlight formula for light gray blending?A: “Demipermanent acid formulas should be the color-ist’s best friend,” says Minardi. “They’re the best, low-impact choice for lowlighting, refreshing midlengths and ends, and light gray blending. I believe you should only lowlight with demipermanent acidic formulas because lowlighting with permanent color will cause the ends to look muddy. And correctly done, demis can last longer than permanent color. Remember, when your blonde cli-ent tells you she wants to be brunette, don’t do it. Low-light her instead, because even though she doesn’t know it yet, every blonde strand you leave on her head will be her friend.”

Chad E Brannon You look in your closet and you realize you only own black clothes.

Cindy Miller Pruett You use sharpie markers to cover up bleach spots in your clothes.

Jayme WilliamsonIt takes you 8 months to get your own hair done.

Lauren Grace Your fi ngers, nails and arms are always dyed different colors and it freaks everyone out.

Lauren Mayer When you have color all over your arms and don’t care when you go out that night. Battle wounds!

Noelle Stepp You get excited when there is the exact amount of ounces of color that you need left in the tube of color that you grab to mix your formula.

Pamela Cutler You go to work in the morning, booked back to back, still manage to work in a guest who needs you, you don’t eat or pee all day, you go home at least 10 hours later with a smile on your face and in your heart—because you rocked out some amazing hair and made the people you touched feel like a celebrity—and you’re ready again the next day! We are lucky!

Katie Liebert When you remember someone by their color formula.

Charles Ladner If you ever prayed to the “Color God” in the backroom.

Survey SAYS!

Q&A WITH BETH MINARDI

ON A WHOLE NEW LEVELON A WHOLE NEW LEVEL

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Centrix Shears now available for online purchase

Centrix Shears now available for online purchase

www.cricketco.com

The days of not being able to carry on a conversation in your salon are now gone. The Centrix Q-Zone™ dryer is the result of years of research, development, and technology to create an incredibly quiet dryer. Insanely Quiet™ technology combined with an energy efficient 1500 watts, 2 speed, high performance motor, greatly reduces salon noise pollution. The bonus Power Booster designed specifically for thick, coarse or resistant hair, increases dryer airflow to 50 MPH – the force produced by gale force winds. Still blissfully quiet. Now awesomely powerful. QUIET… 50 MPH VELOCITY… LIGHTWEIGHT… CERAMIC… ENERGY EFFICIENT… IONIC…

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FirstSkills

Inspired by the trend “Treasured Antiquities” seen on spring runways, CND created a tarnished metallic nail look at designer Norman Ambrose’s Spring 2012 show.

Step 1: Apply a thin layer of CND Shellac Base Coat, cure for 10 seconds followed by two thin layers of CND Shellac Dark Lava. Cure each layer for two minutes.

Step 2: Using a CND Gel Oval Brush, pick up small pieces of multi-colored gold leaf and randomly place them on the nail. Press and smooth gently with the brush.

Step 3: Using the CND Gel Oval Brush, brush a very thin layer of CND Shellac Iced Coral over the entire nail and cure for two minutes. Apply a thin layer of CND Shellac Top Coat and cure for two minutes. Wipe with 99 percent Isopropyl Alcohol to remove top fi lm.

SUZI

Spring is in the air, which means nail trends will be making a shift. But, what will be hot? “This season, I’ve noted three very different but equally beautiful colors for nails,” says OPI Executive VP & Artistic Director Suzi Weiss-Fischmann. “Neutrals will con-tinue to be popular, with new varia-tions in cool pastel tones like the sea-green Thanks a WindMillion replacing winter’s olive green palette.” As always, she says, spring also remains the season for bright hues, with orange shades like A Roll in the Hague adding a unique pop of color. “Another nail hue receiving at-tention for spring is Vampsterdam, a dark purple lacquer,” she says. “The frosted fi nish adds warm tones to this deep color, and it offers a nice con-trast to the season’s bold prints.” Along with Vampsterdam, the other two shades also complement trends seen on Fashion Week’s run-ways—the neutral green Thanks a WindMillion can be worn with lady-like frocks and long, blousy-sleeved tops, while A Roll in the Hague can be used for color blocking with the season’s bright pants.

SPRING NAILS

Treat Their SkinWhether you’re a hairdresser, esthetician or massage tech, recommending products is key to your professionalism as well as your income—and, could be your client’s fi rst line of defense against sun damage. Dr. Ahmed Abdulla, a board certifi ed plastic surgeon and founder of Lexli skin care, provides these sun care tips:

❤ The difference between SPF 15 and SPF 100 is only 4 percent added protection. Pay less attention to the SPF and more attention to proper application. Sunscreen should be applied 15 minutes before venturing outdoors.

❤ Clients recently treated by dermabrasion, laser resurfacing or chemical peels are at increased risk of burn or skin damage following sun exposure. Sunscreen for these individuals must be consistent.

❤ Increased humidity makes skin feel less dry, but don’t be fooled. Use of a moisturizer is required even in the summer.

1. 2. 3.

Esthetics

How-To1. Make sure lashes are clean. Protect lower lashes with Novalash Nova Gel Patches.

Comb through with water on a tissue or clean with Novalash Pomegranate Pads, a

make-up remover.

2. Wearing a glove, apply a drop of Platinum Bond Adhesive glue.

3. Using a straight tweezer, select lash from prep table and place on the back of the

glove. Coat the base with the glue. Make sure it is moderately coated. Excess can be

wiped off.

4. Isolate a single lash. Using the extension as a paintbrush, coat the isolated natural

lash. Place the extension on top of the natural lash, avoid contact with skin.

5. Alternate from eye to eye, and repeat on all lashes allowing time between to dry. Use

tweezers to keep lashes separated so they can grow out for extended wear and comfort.

For a natural look, keep longest lashes in the center. For a more dramatic look, apply

the longest extensions at the outer corner.

6. Mist lightly with water. Fan about 2 minutes per eye, about 3-4 inches away from

lashes. Go through and separate one more time and then remove the eyepads.

As a licensed professional, you should always be on the look-

out for ways to expand your area of expertise. One of the big-

gest trends in the market right now is eyelash extension services.

Check out this mini-technical from Novalash’s Lash Artist of the

Year Christina Lynn Perez of Cheeky Strut salon in Grand Rapids,

Michigan, to see how the lashes are applied. Consider getting

certifi ed in this booming category by visiting novalash.com.

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.


Extension EducationThe Long and Short of ItHair extensions can add length and volume, but think bigger! Results achieved through adding hair extensions are

limitless. You can create a hair cut, correct a hair cut, add chemical-free highlights, cover a scar or alopecia or even

fi ll in a fringe. Having skills in extensions opens the door to new service offerings and major earnings potential, and

helps set you apart from the rest while you begin the search for your fi rst salon job. Here, Great Lengths extension

educators shed some light on the category.


H ow can you use extensions to help “create” or “correct” a hair cut? “Extensions can be used to both create and correct hair cuts,” says Great

Lengths educator Angie Waters-Embertson. “If a client sits down at your

station and shows you a picture of a hair cut that their natural hair could

never support whether due to their natural density, fi ne strands or chemi-

cal styling, extensions are the perfect solution to make their dream cut

happen. You can grow out a client’s bangs in as little as an hour with

extensions. Correcting a cut with extensions is just as easy—if the cut got

too short you can add length, if there is that hole out of nowhere, you can

fi ll it in with just a few strands.”

How do you introduce extensions to a client who wants color change without chemicals?“There are benefi ts to using hair extensions as a way to add color to the

client’s hair, instead of coloring her hair,” says Nanci Lee, a Great Lengths

educator. “One of the benefi ts I tell clients is the opportunity to get dam-

age-free highlights. When adding lighter-colored extensions strategically

throughout the head, there is no need to bleach or use a high-lift color.

And, extensions don’t fade nearly as fast as hair color—this includes high-

fashion, vibrant tones, which are usually the fi rst to fade. Additionally, for

clients who fear color, using extensions to experiment with different tones

is a great opportunity for the client to ‘try on’ a new shade without com-

mitting to a chemical service. And, as a bonus, extensions give the added

benefi t of extra volume!”

How do you match hair extensions for clients with texture?“Texture matching is done during the consultation process,” says Ale-

jandro Lozano, educator for Great Lengths extensions. “It all depends on

how the client wears her hair. If she has curly hair, and wears it curly 50

percent of the time or more, then the strands can be permed to match

her existing hair. A stylist can do this, or it can be ordered pre-permed by

the manufacturer. If the client wears her hair straight, even though her

FirstSkills

Photos courtesy Great Lengths

hair is curly, then nothing needs to be done with the strands. The strands

come with a natural wave pattern. In the hair styling world, we refer to a

wave as the size of an orange perm rod. But hair is a natural resource, so

wave pattern can be slightly different each time. For an ethnic client, we

recommend doing a texture service on the Great Length strand to match

her texture.”

How do you match extensions to your client’s existing color? “Performing a perfect consultation with the client for an extension service

is essential, especially when it comes to matching the color,” says Great

Lengths educator Nicole Misero Vazquez. “You must ask the client what

she sees when she looks at her color—what tones and brightness she

picks out—there are times she may pick out pieces of hair that are her

favorite color. As professionals, we all know there are many ways to match

color, however, with extensions it is key is to make sure the color is exactly

what the client wants to see. Always have a layout—especially when work-

ing with many shades. I match my colors to the nape up to occipital. Then,

up to parietal, making sure I keep her favorite shades on board to blend with

the existing shades in her hair. I prep, pre-blend or color all hair prior to the

application day so I am able to provide my clients with the very best applica-

tion with fl awless color. This will keep each application looking completely

natural and setting it apart from any others!”

How do you cut extensions to create a natural fi nish? “I like to blend hair extensions using soft cutting techniques with either

a razor, thinning shear or a straight shear,” says Keela Gajadha, Great

Lengths educator. “But, my tool of choice is the razor, along with a stock

pile of fresh blades. The razor gives a softer line to the ends, which allows

the cut to be more natural looking by creating variations in lengths instead

of a blunt line that can come along with regular shears. I then fi nish with

my thinning shear to blend the natural hair. Remember, cutting extensions

is very visual and can be time consuming. A fi nal tip: Be sure not to rush

through the cut after spending so much time building all of that length

and volume.”

Services


Be on timeIf you have a client at 9 a.m. and you arrive at 9 a.m., you should consider yourself late.

Arrive to the salon with enough time to get yourself together and begin at 9 a.m. sharp.

Once your clients know you are dependable, they will begin to refer their friends and, before

you know it, your clientele will have doubled.

FirstSkills


Rochelle Mosley, owner of Salon 814 in New York City, is a master of her craft—she keeps up with the latest techniques and current trends, constantly working on her own innovative styles while pushing the boundaries of hair. One of her greatest as-sets? Her clientele that has her book fi lled on a regular basis. Here is Mosley’s advice on how you, too, can get your clients (and their friends!) in your chair, and coming back time and time again—even as a beginner.

Booked Solid

Be a good listener Hairdressers can be like therapists. Clients will share their problems, but you must never repeat them. Listen, be there for your client in the way he or she needs you, then put it in the archive. They will love you for it.

Find a mentor While I was beginning my career, I learned from a wonderful stylist, Sharon Robinson, who taught me to

be fast and effi cient. You can fi nd mentors without them knowing you are his or her mentee. Some

don’t want the responsibility of being a teacher, so you don’t have to

approach it that way. Just be a sponge to

whatever anyone has to offer.

*

*

*

*

Learn the SkillsOne stylist may be really skilled at updos, don’t get intimidated if

you aren’t—spend the time with her so you can learn the skills, too. Another stylist may be known for doing great color,

shadow her and learn what best practices she’s using to be successful.

*

Business

Training Program It is essential to join a salon with a defi ned training program. This is your opportunity to earn a “master’s degree” incosmetology. Working with an experienced stylist for six to 10 months will build confi dence and enhance your guest handling skills.

It is OK to promote yourself as a new artist.

Perhaps offer a cut and color combination.

Your goal is to add additional services and

create an exceptional experience.

Summit Salon Business Center’s Heather Bagby says

by following these grow-focused practices you can be on your way to learning—and earning—more.

Remember that the world says, “Would you

like fries with that?” Guests are not upset

when you offer them additional services. In

fact, it enhances the guest experience and

creates an opportunity for them to consider

those services during future visits.

Rebook. Your fi rst goal is to rebook 40 percent of all the guests you see. If you have 10 guests, four of them should make a future reservation before leaving your salon.

Retail now is the time to educate your guests. Don’t miss the opportunity to tell each guest what products you used and why you used them. It is that simple.

Do not be afraid of the word no. The worst thing a guest can say is, “no thank you!” If you hear the word no throughout the day, you are doing what you are supposed to be doing. Do not take it personally. Eventually you will start to hear “yes!”

Thank You Notesshould be personal and hand-written! Thank you notes can be your point of difference and will set you apart from your competition.

Make sure your salon has an aggressive referral program to offer your guests—it makes your job that much easier.

A lot of your new guests will elect to call, rather than reserve another appointment before leaving the salon. You can offer your guests a “wake-up call” one to two weeks before you need to see them again. It is an excellent way to stay connected and offer a great reminder service.

Exceptional Guest ServiceExceed your guests’ expectations. Offer exceptional guest service on a consistent basis, and create an experience that your guests will embrace and look forward to.

FirstPassport


passport to

How is beauty defi ned in Ecuador?In Ecuador the standards of attractiveness are

quite similar to those of different cultures. If

symmetry, skin tone, color and proportion are

genetically void of imperfections, a person can be

considered beautiful. Tall people of any race or gen-

der are specially viewed as beautiful if they possess attractive

traits. There is a desire to look naturally beautiful in most cases.

Billboards or magazines will focus on the desired market as to the

models of beauty that will be displayed.

What is the cost of attending cosmetology school?The cost of cosmetology schools varies enormously. You will fi nd

schools that will charge $40 a month and you will fi nd others like

ours that will charge $ 300 a month. Our school is considered by

many as one of the most prestigious schools in the country.

How long does it take the average student to complete the cosmetology program?

In Ecuador it is required that a student receive 16 months of beauty

education in order to graduate as a beautician. The requirement is

months, not hours.

Is hairdressing considered a lucrative professionin Ecuador? The profession is considered lucrative and more so every day. We at

the academy spend a good deal of time and effort making sure the

students understand the need for proper education, not only in beauty

but also in business. Every time a class graduates we come closer to

extinguishing the unpleasant stigma that one would become a hair-

dresser when nothing else was obtainable in life. Depending on the

salon and the prices they charge, stylists in Ecuador typically earn a

good living. There is an enormous necessity for good beauticians. The

problem is fi nding them. Since most schools do not educate them

properly, many graduate with defi cient competence.

What services are popular in Ecuador? For the past few years we can say that hair straighteners and Keratin

treatments have been a boom. That trend is winding down and we

are going back to style and color as the most popular salon service.

Across the globe, beauty

is defi ned differently by

various cultures. How beauty

is taught in cosmetology

schools worldwide is

very different as well!

Mariana Vivero, director at

Pivot Point Academy Ecuador,

shares what it’s like to be

a beauty school student in

Guayaquil, Ecuador.

—Alison Shipley

HI

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sy

gen

consid

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eauty pros in-training really make the client transition twice—once from classroom to clin-ic and again, from beauty-school clinic to sa-lon. While the fi rst transition can help you prep for the other, don’t count on many similarities. The student salon is more about practicing technical skills than connecting with clients, building a business or savoring salon life. In fact, the salon experience is so different, that some stylists say you’ll set yourself back if you expect salon clients to look and act like those you snipped in school.

How easily you can make each tran-sition depends in part on the quality of the operation—school or salon. But it helps

to understand the norm, the main chal-lenges and the proactive steps you can take to ease your way from A to B to C.

Puttin’ on a Clinic Today’s student salons have trans-formed themselves from the old perm-

ing factories to as close to the real deal as they can get—it helps if the schools are salon connected. For instance, at Eric

Fisher Academy in Wichita, Kansas, the stu-dent salon uses the same booking system as Eric Fisher salons, and even gives students a “pay-check” in the form of credits. Credits accrue for

pre-bookings and add-on services, and can be used toward purchases in the student store. (A low attendance or GPA voids the check, so students can see just what they lost.)

At the Carsten Aveda Institute in New

FirstStages

Tr

BBInstructor Gloria Hortua says today’s clients know what they want. “They come in with photos on their iPhones; the internet has changed the entire consultation process.”

Moving from mannequins to talking heads is

a world of difference. Here’s how to make

the transition a smooth one.

By Victoria Wurdinger

ssstu-Eriiicc ccpay-y-y-ye e fofofor n betore. k, so

me in cess.”ss

From Classroom To Clinic To Salon

ansitionSYork City, manager and lead instructor Gloria Hortua says stu-dents start on real people pre-clinic: in the classroom, models who get free cuts often replace mannequins. But, she says, once in the clinic, students have to sell their services, which requires confi dence, and building it is the biggest challenge. Part of the problem is there is so much to remember and practice technically that soft skills—talking to clients and build-ing relationships—fall by the wayside. They just aren’t the main focus, but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t start working on them. “People skills are hardest to develop, but if you have them, the client will come back; if you’re fantastic techni-cally but have no people skills, clients won’t return,” says

Hortua. “To build confi dence, we advise students to avoid telling the client it’s their first

time cutting. Also, remember it is a school clinic: the

client knows this, is

paying a lower fee and has signed a release form. Think of it as just another class.”

Talking the TalkPatti Black, an Eric Fisher Academy educator, who was Milady’s 2011 Teacher of the Year, agrees that building confi -dence is the biggest challenge, and says when it comes to soft skills, utilizing pre-planned scripts make it seamless.

“Role play with friends to get com-

fortable with a script in a safe environment,” says Black. “Then you can start using your own words so it sounds natural. In the clinic, we have our students ask what challenge or concern the cli-ent has with his or her hair. Another way to get comfortable is to invite your friends and family to the clinic, which adds friendly faces. At Eric

Fisher Academy, each student can give fi ve friends or family members a card for hefty discounts on

the already-low clinic cost.” Since the clinic is all about skill development, focus on quality, not speed. If you mess up the structure of a cut or a color formula, speed of service doesn’t matter, says Hortua, noting that a 2½-hour bob is

not unusual for a fi rst clinic attempt when each step is checked

by an instructor. Plus, if you’re taking

Milady’s 2011 Teacher of the Year Patti Black guides her clinic students until they are ready to fl y—but she’s always nearby.

firstchair.com 43

classroom Continued >>

avoid telling the client it’s their first time cutting. Also, remember

it is a school clinic: theclient knows this, is

“Role play withfriends to get com-

fortable with a script in a saBlack. “Then you can start so it sounds natural. In thstudents ask what challenent has with his or her hacomfortable is to invite yoto the clinic, which adds

Fisher Academy, each sfriends or family members a card f

the already-low clinic cost.” Since the clinic is all about skon quality, not speed. If you mea cut or a color formula, speematter, says Hortua, noting t

nc

fl y—b

classroomm


your time, you’ll be able to calm yourself, focus and think of im-portant hair-related questions to ask the client. Finally, if you are having a problem, never be too shy—or too arrogant—to excuse yourself from your client to get help or call an instructor over. One big difference between the clinic and the salon is no one can fi re you—yet. Other tips for transitioning to the clinic: ♥ Continue to practice on mannequins at home. ♥ Don’t work on friends at home if you can get them in the clinic, where you can receive guidance and make the experience pay off for both of you.♥ Don’t insult people to get them in the clinic. Saying “Your color is mousy” is not going to encourage anyone to let you touch her hair!♥ Don’t be a slacker on attendance. The old joke is that showing up is half the job, but it’s too true in beauty

school. If you don’t have a specific number of hours, you can’t work on the clinic floor.

♥ Use a checklist for at-home review—some students get so fl us-

tered, they forget to drape clients or remove the cape when done.♥ Start developing good habits, like

asking clients to pre-book and educating them about styling products.♥ Take it easy on yourself; now is the time to learn from mistakes.

Training Days You just fi nished school, so why should you

spend another year training in a salon? Continuing education is part of the business, but the other part

of the story, sorry, is salon owners say new grads don’t have enough experience to “hit the ground running.” Owners pay a lot to get good clients,

and with one wrong remark, slip of the shears or bad color mix, you can send those clients pack-ing. But there’s another perspective that goes

straight to your own heart. If you only apply at salons that will put you on the fl oor

as soon as possible, you’ve missed a great opportunity with incredible future benefi ts. This is why most successful stylists advise you to choose a salon with a one- or two-year assistant training program. But more and more, these sa-lons are big city/high end, because of the economic cost of training to the owner and apprentices’ impatience with the long wait and low pay—about $50 a day. To start the transition right, says Drew Irmen, a

stylist at Angelo David Salon in New York City, network at shows and fi nd a mentor who wants to grow you. “When I was in Ohio, I lived in my parents’ basement and went to every hair show to fi nd the right mentor,” says Irmen. “You have to sacrifi ce to go to the next level. Don’t just visit lo-cal salons—fi nd out what you want to do, and who is doing it at the highest level. If you miss the whole mentoring thing, you’ll miss a lot that you can’t fi gure out on your own, like how to interact with high-end salon clients. “It was tough for me to sham-poo clients 95-percent of the

“It was tough for me to shampoo clients 95-percent of

the time. It hit my ego; I knew I could do more.

But over a year of apprenticing, I learned to

look at other stylists’ work and master their secrets. This developed my professional vision.”—Drew Irmen

At Loxx Salon, Tiffany Nault, Hannah Cook and salon director Tracy Tarbet go over the color manuals.

FirstStages

Jessie Mancini of Glamour Salon in Ottawa, Can-ada, says she’d worked in a salon for 13 years and owned her own for three before deciding her clients trusted her enough to take her retail rec-ommendations.

“I was very intimidated about recommending products to clients in the beginning of my ca-reer,” she says. “Over time, when I reached my mass capacity of clients and hours, I realized that only retail could double my income without a hard effort.”

She also attributes her awakening to “a line like Farouk Royal Treatment, because you see and feel a difference the fi rst time you use it,” prov-ing that if you love a product line, your clients will, too.

“If your clients buy your recommendations, it shows they respect you, and that they want to learn more, too,” adds Mancini. “Right now, women are all about conditioning, and men are more about keeping their hair in style.”

time. It hit my ego; I knew I could do more. But over a year of apprenticing, I learned to look at other stylists’ work and master their secrets. This developed my professional vision.”

Tale of Two SalonsAt L Salon & Color Group in San Mateo, California, owner Elizabeth Stenstrom says her assistants’ program is 16 to 24 months, depend-ing on individual progress. It’s highly structured, and allows trainees to choose a cutting or coloring specialty. It’s also designed so the trainee can build a clientele that will be his or hers upon promotion. Bruce McGaha, co-owner of Moutons and Loxx in Grapevine and Euless, Texas, says his two salons have different busi-ness models and training programs, but the economies of salon life don’t allow for the lengthy training programs that domi-nated past decades. “The longer you wait to put someone on the fl oor, the less confi dence they have,” he says. “Young people don’t have the patience to shampoo for a year and it doesn’t matter how long the program; the fi rst day they work alone, they’re a bundle of nerves. Working on the fl oor with actual clients is the real learning curve.” At Moutons, training is about 16 weeks, while at Loxx, it’s

Get over it; retail is cool, says Jessie Mancini of Glamour Salon in Ottawa, Canada.

HOW I LEARNED TO LOVE RETAIL

clinic

Continued >>

Elizabeth Stenstrom believes in long training programs for her assistants Shirley Chu, Vergineh Tchamourlian, Marisa Saucedo and Krista Sheffi eld.


Jessieada, sand owclientsomme

“I waprodureer,”mass that oa hard

Get oveSalon i

HOW

clinic

about six weeks before assistants are eased onto the fl oor. At both salons, says McGaha, the biggest

surprise new stylists face is that the salon is more “real life” than they expected. “The perception of a paying cli-ent is very different from that of a

school-clinic client, who knows what she is paying for and getting,” says McGaha.

What helped his three most recent hires: while still in school, they asked if

they could come in and hang out in the salon once in a while. They would drop in

after school or on an occasional Saturday to absorb the salon culture, and McGaha

says it defi nitely made them better prepared for what salon life really looked like.

A Place of Your OwnSo what truly eases the transition to a chair of your own? Scripts, again, say most pros, and

careful, one-on-one coaching. Because the more you do, the faster you boost your skills; getting your own models in order to build expe-

rience is another challenge. “Our salon has a strong reputation,

so we get a lot of models for trainees, who are expected to move from doing all major cuts on mannequins to doing one model a week to eventually do-ing fi ve models a day for fi ve days a week,” says Stenstrom. “This progression greatly eases the transi-

tion to becoming a designer on the fl oor. The best places for anyone to get models are malls, cosmetic counters, high schools and colleges.” Transitioning is greatly eased if you attend every show you can, and watch professional vid-eos, of which you can fi nd hundreds online including at modernsalon.tv. Still, nothing really substitutes for having clients of your own and proving you can retain them. But even with scripts, coaching, mentoring and training, full confi dence only kicks in after nine months to a year on the fl oor. “Through decades of doing performance reviews and tracking numbers like client retention, we know that’s how long it takes for stylists to really get it,” says McGaha.

o-ays Thisansisssi-

e fl oor. ellls areols anddndnd

yooouuu attendssionalaa vid-nline inccclululuding

having cliiients oooff them. But ttt evennnd trainingngngn , fullnthsss tttto o a year

mance reviewsntion, we know eally get it,” sayssss


FirstStages

Paranoia…sweaty hands…the onset of fi rst-day jitters. Fresh out of cosmetology school, I’d landed a job as a stylist at Head Games Salon in Fort Myers, Florida. Although the salon at-mosphere wasn’t new to me (I worked at salons on the business side before I attended beauty school), this was something entirely different. On my fi rst day, the owner gave me a client right away. I barely had time to think. What if I made a mistake? What if I she didn’t like the outcome? What if I accidentally cut her with my shears? The idea of a client bleeding all over the place from a cutting mishap wasn’t exactly making things any easier.

So what did I do? I took a risk and was honest with the client about it being my fi rst day, and she was still willing to let me work on her. Then I just closed my eyes, took a deep breath and re-membered to have confi dence in the knowledge and experience that got me the job in the fi rst place. By the time I was fi nished, I had a happy new client, who returned to me from then on. It’s been four years since my fi rst experience with a real salon client, and now I have my own ses-sion styling company.

By Travis Kelley, Shear Terror Hair, New York

My first day

Eric Fisher Academy student Katie Sawyer gets help from in-structor Patti Black.

Perhaps, the biggest assets of all are patience and fl exibility. If you’re willing to put in the time and learn someone else’s way of doing things, you’re that much more likely to succeed. After all, Darwin never said the strongest or even the most intelligent survive. To paraphrase, he said the ones most adaptable to change are the ones who make it in the long run.

From Salon to school and backBy day, Jessica Sachchabutra is a stylist at Natural Look Aveda Salon & Spa in Wood-haven, New York; by night, she’s an instructor at Carsten Aveda Institute in New York City. Licensed in 2003, she says a two-year salon assistant program went a long way to build-ing her confi dence. But then, the teaching bug bit her. She sat in on a friend’s class fi rst, and then decided to go for her teaching license.

“The students love hearing my salon sto-ries,” she says. “In the school, we go over the new seasonal looks early, which keeps me up-to-date in the salon.”

What from her salon experience does she stress most with new crops of professionals? “I tell them make your mistakes now and to get into a salon with a good training program because it builds confi dence. Also, dress up; no ripped jeans. To succeed, you have to look the part!”


My biggest mistake in the student salon in-volved my fi rst color clients. I was really wor-ried about bleeding and leaving “tracks” in the hair, so I must have over-compensated for the expansion of the lightener. An hour later I’m washing it out and my instructor looks at it with a confused look on her face and says “Oh.” Long pause… “Hmm.” I had placed the lighten-er so far away from the scalp that it looked like the client had weeks’ worth of new growth! My instructor helped me re-weave the hair, and my client got to spend an extra hour of quality time with me that day.

On the other hand, a client with extremely long hair was booked for a hair cut. I was kind of intimidated—her hair was past her waistline. When I saw the picture of the style she wanted I was really freaked. She wanted a chin-length bob. Talk about pressure! I tried to go through all of the steps of a good con-sultation and hair cut, and by the time we were done, she loved her new cut. She told me I gave her the best experience and salon service she ever had.

Clinic confessionsCoups and SNAfusBy Katie Sawyer,Eric Fisher Academy, student

f -by the time we were

“I tell them make your mistakes now and to get into a salon with a good training

program because it builds confi -dence. Also, dress up; no ripped

jeans. To succeed, you have to look the part!”— Jessica Sachchabutra

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FirstCareers

By Lauren Salapatek

irst Chair profiles

three new talent suc-

cess stories as part

of our ongoing “A Day

in the Life...” series.

Their customer-ser-

vice skills, profession-

alism and passion for

the industry helped them suc-

cessfully make the clinic-to-salon

transition in three years or less.

Read how Kelsey, Casey and

Taylor make the most out of their

careers. >>


hen a client sits in stylist Kelsey Morrison’s chair at PureTalent Salons at Aveda Academy Denver, and isn’t sure of the style she’d like to try, Morrison refers to her scrapbook of magazine clippings and celebrity hair styles. “This look book has set me apart from other stylists at my salon. I spent time putting it together, and made it personal

by including my biography, photos of work I’ve created, hair and make-up I like,” she says. “It’s nice, because when I’m focused on cutting, the book is a good way for my client to get to know more about me.” It’s the little ways of showing a client that she cares about her job, and personalizing each and every experience, that helped Morrison hit the ground running upon graduation. “In the beginning when I was in the PureTalent training program at my salon [one of the initial stages for new stylists], I created my own business cards and personalized them with drawings or deals I was offering. Drawing on each card took a lot of personal time, but it paid off, and people really appreciated it,” she says. Clients liked her drawings so much, they held onto the cards and remembered her. “Today our salon prints out business cards, and for each client who sits in my chair, I hand them three to four cards so they can refer me to their friends and family.” Morrison adds on to every service by giving each client a complimentary scalp massage. She writes down all of the products she uses on a “prescription pad,” (a customized list of the products she uses on each cli-ent). This way clients will know exactly what products she used to create his or her look. For her clients who frequently visit, she adds them to her Facebook page. “I use Facebook to notify clients of services I am offering. It makes them feel good and, most of all, special. Sometimes it’s hard to keep up with everyone, but it pays off in the long run.” Morrison says a tip for new stylists looking to get ahead is to always stay in control of your service. “It’s not only important to have strong technical skills, it’s crucial to have good communication skills as well,” she says. “Customers will stay with you when you can communicate

FirstCareers


the

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well.” You need to listen to client requests and mirror back how you will deliver that service. “Some clients still intimi-date me, but with experience I get better. I tell them when they sit in my chair, ‘let’s see what we can do.’ We take things slow and go from there.” Besides staying on top of marketing herself in creative ways and personalizing every service, Morrison partici-pates in in-salon classes as well as continuing/advanced education. This year, Morrison’s educational inspirations were at the Aveda Congress in Minneapolis, Minnesota, where she witnessed one of her mentors, and Aveda edi-torial stylist, Peter Gray in action. “Since I had the highest retail sales for two months at my salon, I got a free class with Peter Gray. We learned how to make headpieces, do photoshoots and we even got an up-close look at the creations he presented on stage.” After the Congress, Morrison was so inspired she got involved in a photoshoot at her salon. “I worked with a model, styled her hair, did her make-up, and coordinated with a photographer. The energy was my favorite part—I loved the directing process.” Now, Morrison has com-pleted three separate photoshoots on a volunteer basis. “I continue to participate in photoshoots because I learn something different from each one. It’s also a great way to build my portfolio.” In fi ve years, Morrison would like to work as an edito-rial stylist, or even be a stylist to the stars. “I also want to educate—I feel like I am fi nally making something of myself,” she says. “Remember, hard work always leads to good things!”

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Morrison’s lookbook allows clients to read her bio and see what inspires her.

oss a blow dry cream, mini hair spray, shampoo or conditioner along with coupons and a business card in a gift bag, and you get styl-ist Casey Dunn’s marketing promo bags that she gives to businesses with potential customers. “As often as I can, I give a se-lection of gift bags to each store near the salon,” she says. “I tell them to hand out the bags to their employees, leave them on tables or to keep the bags for themselves.” Dunn says she seeks out medical and dental offices in particular—she believes that giving the bags to

businesses that attract health-conscious consumers, will help generate her target market of clients. “So far, I have had a wonderful response. Since my salon al-ready hands out free samples, I thought why not take it a step further and personalize the process?” However, Dunn’s 80 clients per month and high-retention rates didn’t come easy. She credits a lot of her success to finding the right salon after graduating from Concord School of Hair Design in New Jersey. “My first job was at a mall where I was expected to go straight onto the salon floor, and work with guests without any additional training,” she says. “I felt like things were going much too fast and that I wasn’t pre-pared—so I left, tried out another salon, left there too, and then finally found the salon I work at currently.” At Evolution, The Salon in Shrewsbury, New Jer-sey, Dunn has surrounded herself with mentors, and a successful marketing program. “My salon will send e-mails to all of the clients in our system. A message might say, ‘If you book an appointment with Casey, then you will get a free conditioning treatment!’ This marketing provided by my salon helps me further my career.” Dunn also realizes that by creating individual deals for her clients brings customers into her chair. “I give my clients $25 gift cards to give to friends and

FirstCareers



Casey Dunn creates gift bags of product sam-ples and business cards to distribute at busi-ness that attract beauty-conscious clients.

family. I also post on my personal and salon’s Facebook pages about deals being offered.” Another tactic Dunn believes sets her apart is being honest. “I’m not afraid to tell my clients exactly what they need. I do what they want me to do, and I do what I feel looks good for them. Sometimes if the look they want is really out there I may say, ‘I don’t think that’s the best look for you but we can try this hair cut in a different way.’ If a client is stuck on a decision we may go through look books or I’ll pull magazines for inspiration. I’ll offer product recommendations and show them how to properly use the product—they will usually purchase it.” Through vigorous self-promotion and honest com-munication, Dunn has gone far in the short time she’s been in the beauty industry. In the past six months she has jumped from Level 1 to Level 2 (based on the Summit Salon System her salon uses) and is now on her way to being a Level 3 stylist. “I have moved up Levels so quickly because I beat all of the numbers I set for myself and I doubled my goals. More clients come to see me now, too.” Dunn says to always see yourself achieving success—and to work hard until you achieve it. “First find a salon you love. When I come to work I don’t even feel like I’m going to work—that’s how much I love coming here,” she says. “I do get discour-aged sometimes if my day isn’t as booked as I’d like it to be, but I realize success comes in waves.” In five years, Dunn sees herself working at her cur-rent salon, progressing Levels and retaining more cli-ents. “I would love to be an educator one day. I want to continue learning and growing, and educate others on how to be successful in their careers,” she says.

Casey Dunn creates gift bags of prodples and b i

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uring her first year of college, whenever Taylor Sill visited Salon Visage in Knoxville, Tennessee, she loved the energy. From the excep-tional customer service to the hustle and bustle of the salon atmosphere to the cutting and styling—everything lured her in. Sill thought from that mo-ment on, “Wow, I would re-ally love to work here.” However, Sill was already

in her fi rst year of college, and on her way to being a nurse.

If her parents found out she were consid-

ering dropping out, she knew they would disapprove. “Everything changed after one of my English classes. I remember I had to write a paper on my dream career, and decided it would be fun to go to Salon Visage and interview the stylists.” After conducting the interviews and writing the paper, she told her parents she wanted to go to beauty school. “My parents were worried, and told me I would have to fi nance my new education if I were to drop out.” Even with these obstacles, Sill was determined to follow her dream. Soon after, she interviewed at the salon for a spot in their call center, just to get a taste of the career she eagerly awaited. “I finished my first year of school, started working at Visage, went through extensive training and as soon as I got my li-cense, I finally became an assistant at the salon! It was everything I had hoped for.” Sill credits her success to her mentors at the salon—Education Director Teresa Hoxworth, and Cutting Department Head Chris Branson. By watching how they executed cuts, listening to client dialogue, and seeing how they marketed themselves. “I see about seven to eight clients per day, and 60-70 every two weeks,” she says. “Although I have personally worked very hard to retain my clients,

FirstCareers


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getting them in my chair has never been a chal-lenge. My salon is very reputable in our area and clients know if they come to this salon, they will get exceptional service.” Sill recommends new-er stylists should strategically choose salons to apply at, versus just trying to land any job. If you end up at a big-name salon, it can be easier to build a clientele.

Sill’s professionalism in her career, includes how she dresses for success. “I make sure be-fore I leave my house everyday that I look my best. I can’t tell you how many times I have been out somewhere and someone asks me, ‘Where did you get your hair done? I love it!’ This is a great conversation starter and, from there, I re-fer my services.” Sill says she pushes herself to be a social but-terfly in all situations. Whenever she finds her-self in a conversation with a potential client she hands out business cards—one for the client to keep for themselves and one to pass on. “If they pass out the cards for me, they will get a free service at the spa for every client they refer.” Once a client is in her chair, she says the next

challenge is to retain them. “I make sure clients pre-book every time before they leave,” she says. Another strategy she recommends is remem-bering the details about each and every client who sits in your chair. “Write notes that will help you recall what’s going on in their lives so you can comment about it next time. And, always mention what products you are using on them, how long they should wait until their next appointment, or any tips to maintain their look between appoint-ments. Clients like that.” Whenever Sill is having a slow day, she will post a status on Facebook, but she ultimately thinks that by perfecting your communication and technical skills you will give a client exactly what they want. “It’s impossible to have one without the other. You have to have both to be a good styl-ist.” To improve her technical skills, Sill attends several classes so she can stay up to date with all of the new trends. “Recently our salon traveled to Santa Monica to attend a training class at the Sassoon Academy. I actually got to meet Vidal! And, we attended an inspiring fashion show. After education events, I always try what I learned on my clients. If you don’t use it, you will lose it!” In the past year, Sill has moved from a Level 1 to a Level 3 stylist. In five years, she hopes to reach Level 6, which is the top level at her salon (commission is at its highest, you get an assis-tant, and you always have a full book). “It’s going to be difficult, but I am shooting for the moon. I eventually want to be an Education Director. I think it’s important that when you find success you should help everyone starting out and guide them in a way,” she says. “Sometimes I compare myself to a race horse—I felt held back because I couldn’t take on every-thing at first, but without the slow start and fun-damentals I wouldn’t have been able to progress as fast as I have.”

SignatureStyle

Congratulations on entering the beauty industry, full of creativity, passion and opportunity. We’re all rooting for your success—including Beth Minardi, who offers words of wisdom from decades of experience as a colorist,educator, salon owner and icon.

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Dear future graduate,Congratulations! You are beginning an amazing journey as you take your fi rst steps away from cosmetology school and into the wonderful world of professional beauty. Remember: On the day you receive your license, you are obtaining a license to continue learning. Our profession is one that changes almost daily—and that’s only a part of what keeps it so exciting. New products, techniques, applications and ideas are always out there, just waiting to be discovered. It’s up to you to keep yourself current, and to be able to offer your clients the most effective and benefi cial services. How fortunate we are to have the opportunity to lit-erally change a person’s life! That’s how powerful you

are. Image matters. When we enhance a client’s appearance we make magic. You will get amazing responses when your clients look in the mirror and discover what you have been able to do for them. Your work can brighten their day, and give them the hope they need to manage their hectic, complicated lives. That is the power you have—and that power comes with responsibility. I hope you take this profession seriously and that you have a burning desire to suc-ceed as one of the best in our industry. Too many people “give up” after a year or so. After graduation, new professionals should expect to assist at a great salon for up to three years. I recommend you become a sponge and take in all the great information and experience you can. If you do this, I promise you will amaze yourself as you emerge as a true master of our profession. I wish you all the success you deserve. I hope you will enjoy this amazing journey and that I’ll have the honor of meeting you in class one day. Your school has given you the tools to create your own wonderful destiny. May your search for your place in our beautiful world be fi lled with wonder, joy and satisfaction.

All the best, Beth Minardi

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More than 25 students from Empire Beauty School in Morrow, Georgia volunteered their time for Christmas in the Park.


Morrow Campus Celebrates Christmas in the Park!Students and staff at Empire Beauty School in Morrow, Georgia volunteered their time and talents at the city of Morrow’s Christ-mas in the Park Celebration. Empire students used their makeup skills to offer face painting to children. More than 150 young faces walked out with some holiday bling!

Empire Celebrates the Holidays!

Flagstaff Students Celebrate the Holidays with

the Parade of Lights!Students and staff at Empire Beauty School in Flagstaff,

Arizona took part in the city’s 13th annual Parade of Lights.

The students decorated a fl oat inspired by the “The Grinch.”

During the parade students passed out hundreds of business

cards and candy canes to the cheering crowd!

Framingham Students Provide Thanksgiving for Needy FamiliesStudents at Empire Beauty School in Framingham, Massachusetts made Thanksgiving a bit brighter for families in need. A food drive was held at the school along with a collection of cash donations to provide residents at the school’s adopted shelter a Thanksgiving meal. In addition to the food drive, students also collected money to buy gifts

for children at the shelter.

Empire Beauty School, Concord Steps it Up

for the Holidays!Empire Beauty School’s Concord, North Carolina campus

laced up their walking shoes for the annual Concord Christmas

Parade. Nearly 20 students took to the streets representing

Empire during the parade. Along with spreading lots of good

cheer, the students handed out more than 1,500 candy canes

and 500 free haircut cards!

Concord students

spread holiday

cheer with

their participation

in the Concord

Christmas Parade.

Framingham students worked hard to collect enough food to provide a Thanksgiving meal to shelter residents.

Students and staff take part in the 13th annual

Flagstaff ChamberHoliday Parade of Lights.


Boston Celebrates Halloween with Haunted Couture!

Halloween never looked so good as it did in Boston during EmpireBeauty School’s Haunted Couture Fashion Show!

Students and staff celebrate the holiday with a week-long series of special classes in special effects makeup, wigs, and mask-making. The students put their new skills to use with an all out fashion show in the student salon!

FALL FUN AT EMPIRE!Halloween and all its fright is a screaming good time at Empire!

Students in Littleton, Colorado Celebrate Fall with Makeup!

Students at Empire Beauty School’s Littleton, Colorado campus celebrated their Fall Festival with a 3 hour contest demonstrating their artistic and creative abilities in the

areas of hair, makeup, and nails.

Students showcased many creative and artistic styles of makeup.

empire.edu

Boston Celebrates Halloween with Haunted Couture!alloween never looked so good as it did in Boston during EmpireBeauty School’s Haunted Couture Fashion Show!

Students and staff celebrate the holiday with a week-long series of special classes in special effects makeup, wigs, and mask-making. The students put their new skills to use with an

This cheetah inspired look was highlighted at the fashion show!

Creative hair color technique with a cat inspired theme.

A student model shows off her peacock inspired makeup!

Littleton student displays a cat-like

appearance!

Special effects makeup modeled

by a Littleton student.

Movies, Magazines and Fall Fashion!What do you get when you mix a Hollywood blockbuster and a few great fashion shows with Empire students? A success-

ful and memorable event! Our students have been all over the place lately showing off their great skills and talents! From movie premieres to red carpet events, our students are in demand!


Empire Beauty School in Moosic, Pennsylvania used Broadway as inspiration for their Fall and Winter Trends Open House. Students showed

the public their take on what’s hot this season with NYC inspired glamour!

Students and staff from Empire Beauty School in Boston, Massachusetts pose for a picture at the premiere party for Twilight: Breaking Dawn. The students offered free

beauty services to hundreds of women invited to a special screening of the blockbuster fi lm.

Students at Empire Beauty School in State College, Pennsylvania assist stylists before the ‘Marie Claire Front Row Challenge’. The leading fashion

magazine is travelling to college campuses across the country showing

off the latest trends and styles by design students.

When there is hair and makeup to be done, Empire students are

always ready! Students at Empire Beauty School in Morrow,

Georgia volunteered their time and talents to the City of Mor-

row’s Fashionatta Fashion Show. The proceeds went to Clayton County

Family Care, a program that provides emergency assistance with rent or

mortgage, gas, electric, food and prescription medicine for low-income

households. Eleven Empire students did the hair and makeup for over

35 models at the event!

Meanwhile, in West Palm Beach, Florida, Empire students put their

budding editorial skills to use styling models for the cover of a local

magazine! The shoot was for the cover of “Palm Beach Society.” Seven

West Palm students managed the entire shoot, doing hair and makeup

for all the models. The Empire students can be seen in the background

of the cover, promoting an education in beauty!

EMPIRE STUDENTS ROCK FASHION

SHOWS AND PHOTO SHOOTS!

of the cover, promoting an education in beauty!

Behind the scenes of the

“Palm Beach Society” cover shoot.

Morrow student highlights makeup skills on model for the City of Morrow’s

Fashionatta Fashion Show.

Morrow students gather for a group picture during Fashionatta Fashion Show.

Cover of “Palm Beach Society” styled by Empire Beauty School students.


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First Chair Spring 2012