Finecooking breakfast

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BreakfastHOW TO MAKE

The Perfect OmeletTHE BEST

OF

French toast chocolate sandwiches! p. 93

Easy Ideas for Busy Mornings

88 Delicious Recipes for everyone’s favorite anytime meal!• Eggs every way• Breakfast for dinner• Brunch classics

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recipe advisor

Getting the most from our recipes

How to follow a recipe

• Beforeyoustart,readtherecipefrombegin-ningtoendsotherearenosurprises.

• Beforeactuallystartingtocookorbake,gatherallthenecessaryingre-dientsandequipment.Preparetheingredientsaccordingtothedirec-tionsintheingredientlist(see“Watchthosemodifiers”atrightformoreonthis).

• Fordeterminingdoneness,alwaysrelyfirstontherecipe’ssensorydescriptor,suchas“cookuntilgoldenbrown.”Consideranytimesgiveninarecipemerelyasaguideforwhentostartcheckingfordoneness.

ingredients

Unlessotherwisenoted,assumethat:

• butterisunsalted.

• eggsarelarge(about2oz.each).

• flourisunbleachedall-purpose(don’tsiftunlessdirectedto).

• sugariswhitegranulated.

• freshherbs,greens,andlettucesarewashedanddried.

• garlic,onions,andfreshgingerarepeeled.

watcH tHose modifiers

Arecipeingredientlistcontainswordssuchas“diced”and“chopped”thattellyouhowtoprepareeachingredient

fortherecipe,butwhatyoumaynotrealizeisthattheplacementofthese“preparationmodifiers”intheingredientlineisasimportantasthemodifieritself.Take,forexample,thefollowingtwosimilarlinesthatyoumayseeinarecipeingredientlist:

1 cup rice, cooked

1 cup cooked rice

Thefirstlineistellingyoutotake1cupofriceandcookit;thesecondlineiscallingfor1cupofricethathasalreadybeencooked.Thedifferencebetweenthetwoisabout2cupsofcookedrice,andthatcanmakeabigdifferenceintheoutcomeofarecipe.

fcSIP48_OnTheWeb_final.indd 9 12/22/10 2:54 PM

The allure of cooking in cast iron goes beyond its glossy good looks. Cast iron heats up slowly, but it holds heat well. Because it’s thick, cast iron heats evenly, with-out hot spots, which suits it for cooking at high heat. And well-seasoned cast iron is truly stickproof and easy to clean.

But cast iron does have a reputation, mostly by those who haven’t cooked with it, of being finicky. Most prob-lems arise from not seasoning the pan correctly or from not maintaining the finish, both of which are actually easy to do. Here’s a primer on how cast iron works and how to care for it to ensure years of pleasurable use.

Season it rightNew cast-iron pans need to be “seasoned” with oil to keep foods from sticking. For the initial seasoning, most manufacturers recommend coating the pan with a bit of shortening and baking for an hour or more. Here’s how:

Heat the oven to 350°F. Meanwhile, heat your pan on the stovetop until hot. With a thick wad of paper towels, spread 1 to 2 teaspoons lard, bacon grease, or solid vegetable shortening all over the inside and outside of the pan. Apply a very thin coating of fat—too much grease and you’ll end up with a gummy residue in your pan.

Put the pan upside down on the center rack of the oven for 11⁄2 hours. (Slide a baking sheet or piece of alu-minum foil onto the rack beneath the pan to catch any drips.) Turn off the heat and let the pan sit in the oven until cool. The pan won’t be deep black right away but will develop a dark patina with regular use.

Preserve the patinaOnce the pan is seasoned, it’s quite simple to maintain. Some say that washing cast iron destroys the season-ing; these folks prefer to just wipe the pan clean, using coarse salt as an abrasive for cooked-on residue. From our experience, though, that’s often not enough. So we wash cast iron with soap and water and immediately towel it dry. Next, set it on a burner on medium heat until the pan is hot and completely dry. While the pan is still hot, use a paper towel to spread a thin coating of vegetable oil on the interior. With this extra attention, cast iron stays perfectly seasoned and dry.

breakfast basics

Cast-Iron CookwareFrom sausage to eggs to pancakes, a cast-iron skillet is essential

to making great breakfast food. Here’s how to care for it.

Cast-iron cookware

is inexpensive,

cooks well, and will

last for generations.

f i n e c o o k i n g . c o m 1 3

FCSIP48_BreakfastBasics_final.indd 13 12/22/10 2:57 PM

equipment

Juice It UpThe easiest way to get your daily fruit is by drinking it.

Here’s a look at how to make the freshest juice.

The intense flavor of fresh juice, whether squeezed from a peach for a Bellini or from a lemon for a salad dressing makes a world of difference. The world of equipment to help you get at a fruit or vegetable’s juice is complex, ranging from one-piece manual reamers to involved electric countertop models.

Deciding what to buy depends on how often you need juice, and how much. If you like to drink freshly squeezed juice every day, you’ll want a different juicing method than if you just need a teaspoonful or so for recipes once in a while.

Here’s your guide to the different types of juicers and how to buy one that suits your needs.

fruit factTo get the most juice, soften citrus fruit by pressing down on it with your palm and rolling it back and forth along a countertop. This weakens cell walls and makes it easier to extract the juice.

juicing tip:To get the most juice, soften the citrus fruit by pressing down on it with your palm and rolling it back and forth along a countertop. This weakens cell walls and makes it easier to extract the juice.

14 B r e a k f a s T 2 0 1 1

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18 B R E A K F A S T 2 0 1 1

sparkling pomegranate cocktailOne bottle of sparkling wine is enough to make about six cocktails. You can easily double or triple this recipe.Serves 6

1 cup plus 2 Tbs. unsweetened pure pomegranate juice (such as Pom brand), chilled

3 Tbs. sugar syrup (recipe below), chilled

1 750ml bottle dry sparkling wine or Champagne, chilled

In a small pitcher, stir the pomegranate juice and sugar syrup. Fill each flute about one-third full with the pomegranate mixture. Top with the sparkling wine, dividing it evenly among the flutes. Serve immediately.

sugar syrupYields a scant 2�3 cup, enough to make about 15 cocktails

½ cup granulated sugar

½ cup water

In a small saucepan, bring the sugar and water to a boil over high heat, stirring until the sugar is dissolved. Boil for 1 minute. Let cool and then refrigerate until ready to use. masala chai

If you find typical coffeehouse chai over powering, try this version of the well-known Indian spiced tea. Its judicious use of spices results in a kinder, gentler drink.Yields 3¾ cups; serves 4

1 Tbs. loose black tea, such as English Breakfast or Darjeeling

6 green cardamom pods, gently crushed

5 whole cloves

1 small cinnamon stick (about 1½ inches long)

¼ tsp. black peppercorns

¾ cup whole milk

2 Tbs. granulated sugar; more to taste

In a small saucepan, bring 3½ cups water to a boil. Remove from the heat and add the tea, cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, and peppercorns. Let steep uncov-ered for 4 minutes, stirring once or twice. Pour through a fine strainer set over a bowl, rinse the saucepan, and pour the tea back into the pan. Add the milk and sugar and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Add more sugar to taste. Reheat if necessary over low heat, but don’t boil. Serve hot.

BREAKFAST DRINKS

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28 B r e a k f a s t 2 0 1 1

Bread Basket

this classic yeast bread, rich and golden with butter and eggs, is a breakfast staple.Yields 16 three-inch brioches à tête

1 lb. 2 oz. (4 cups) unbleached all- purpose flour

1/3 cup granulated sugar

½ oz. (4½ tsp.) active dry yeast, preferably Red Star brand

½ oz. (2 tsp.) table salt, plus a pinch for the egg wash

4 large eggs, at room temperature, plus 2 large eggs and 1 large egg yolk for the egg wash

4 oz. (½ cup) whole milk, at room temperature

8 oz. (1 cup) unsalted butter, cut into 16 pieces, slightly softened; more for the pans

Make the dough

In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix the flour, sugar, yeast, and salt on low speed until well combined. add 4 of the eggs and the milk and continue mixing on low speed to combine. as soon as the dough starts to clump together, remove the paddle attachment and attach the dough hook. (there will still be unmixed egg and flour in the bowl.) Mix on medium speed for 2 minutes. Using a plastic dough scraper or strong plastic spatula, scrape the bowl and hook. Continue to mix until the dough is firm and elastic, about 2 minutes more. the dough may stick to the hook at this point, but that’s Ok. scrape the dough off the hook again. With the mixer on medium-low speed, add half of the butter, a few pieces at a time. scrape down the bowl and dough hook, and remove the dough hook. Give the dough a few kneads by hand in the bowl, repeatedly folding the dough over on itself, to help

incorporate the butter. reattach the dough hook and add the remaining butter, a few pieces at a time, mixing on medium-low speed. Once all of the butter has been added, increase the mixer speed to medium and mix for 4 minutes. scrape the dough hook and the sides and bottom of the bowl. Mix again until the dough is smooth, soft, and shiny, about 4 minutes more. You’ll hear the dough slap against the sides of the bowl when it’s ready. (If your kitchen is warm, the dough may seem too loose at this point. resist the urge to add extra flour, or the brioche may be tough.)

Let the dough RiSe

Use a plastic dough scraper or a spatula to turn the dough out onto a clean, very lightly floured work surface. the dough will be very moist. knead it by hand a few times and then form it into a ball by folding the sides into the middle at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock. flip the dough over, place your palms on either side of the dough, and tuck it under itself, turning the dough as you tuck to form a loose ball with a smooth top . transfer the dough, smooth side up, to a clean large bowl. Cover loosely with plastic and let the dough rise in a warm, draft-free spot until doubled in size, about 1 hour.

Let the dough RiSe again

Use the dough scraper or spatula to turn the dough out, smooth top down, onto a very lightly floured work surface. again, form it into a ball by folding the sides into the middle at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock. flip the dough over, place your palms on either side of the dough, and tuck it under itself, turning the dough as you tuck to form a loose ball with a smooth top. transfer the

bake aheadBrioches reheat well, so any that are not eaten within a day or two can be reheated in a 325°f oven until the outside is crisp, about 7 minutes for small brioches or 15 minutes for large. Wrap cooled brioches well and store at room temperature for up to two days, or freeze for up to five weeks. thaw, wrapped, at room temperature.

authentic brioche

FCSIP48_Bread_final.indd 28 12/22/10 3:06 PM


cottage cheese is the secret to these delectable flaky buns. Yields 12 buns

Cooking spray

FOR THE DOUGH

3/4 cup cottage cheese (4% milk fat)

1/3 cup buttermilk


2 oz. (4 Tbs.) unsalted butter, melted

1 tsp. pure vanilla extract

9 oz. (2 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour; more for rolling

1 Tbs. baking powder

1/2 tsp. table salt

1/4 tsp. baking soda

FOR THE FILLING

3/4 oz. (11/2 Tbs.) unsalted butter, melted

2/3 cup packed light or dark brown sugar

11/2 tsp. ground cinnamon

1/2 tsp. ground allspice

1/4 tsp. ground cloves

1 cup (4 oz.) chopped pecans

FOR THE GLAZE

21/2 oz. (scant 2/3 cup) confectioners’ sugar

2 to 3 Tbs. cold whole or low-fat milk


Heat the oven to 400°f. grease the sides and bottom of a 9- or 10-inch springform pan with cooking spray.

MAkE THE DOUGH

in a food processor, combine the cottage cheese, butter-milk, sugar, melted butter, and vanilla. Process until smooth, about 10 seconds. Add the flour, baking powder, salt, and baking soda and pulse in short bursts just until the dough clumps together (don’t over process). The dough will be soft and moist. Scrape the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead it with floured hands 4 or 5 times until smooth. With a rolling pin, roll the dough into a 12x15-inch rectangle.

MAkE THE FILLING

Brush the dough with the melted butter, leaving a 1/2-inch border unbuttered around the edges. in a medium bowl, combine the brown sugar, cinnamon, allspice, and cloves. Sprinkle the mixture over the buttered area of the dough and pat gently into the surface. Sprinkle the nuts over the sugar mixture.Starting at a long edge, roll up the dough jelly-roll style. Pinch the seam to seal, and leave the ends open. With a sharp knife, cut the roll into 12 equal pieces. Set the pieces, cut side up, in the prepared pan; they should fill the pan and touch slightly, but don’t worry if there are small gaps.

fastest-ever cinnamon buns

Bake until golden brown and firm to the touch, 20 to 28 minutes. Set the pan on a wire rack to cool for 5 minutes. Run a spatula around the inside edge of the pan and remove the springform ring. Transfer the rolls to a serving plate.

MAkE THE GLAZE

in a small bowl, mix the confectioners’ sugar, 2 Tbs. milk, and vanilla to make a smooth glaze. it should have a thick but pourable consistency, so add up to 1 Tbs. more milk if necessary. Drizzle the glaze over the rolls. Let stand for 15 minutes and serve.

FCSIP48_Bread_final.indd 31 12/22/10 3:07 PM

Leek and Morel Strata, p. 46

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38 b r e a k f a s t 2 0 1 1

brunch for a crowd



waffle success• Takecenterstage

People like to watch waffles being made, so don’t be shy about cooking the waffles while you and your guests have cocktails or coffee. keep the waffles warm until it’s time to eat by spreading them—don’t stack—directly on a rack in a 200°f oven.

• BepatientAlways let your waffle iron heat up until a few drops of water flicked on the surface sizzle. Don’t be tempted to rush batter onto an iron that’s not preheated, or you won’t get maximum browning and flavor.

• Stayloosegrease the waffle iron between waffles by applying a light coating of nonstick cooking spray or brushing on a light coating of vegetable oil.

• Sneakapeekif the “ready” light or alarm on your waffle maker corresponds to a level of doneness you like, great. if not, don’t be afraid to lift the lid after a couple minutes. You can always leave the waffle in longer if it’s too pale, or crisp it further in the oven.

crème fraîche whipped creamRich and tangy crème fraîche adds a wonderful zing to whipped cream. This can be made a day ahead.Yieldsabout3cups

4 oz.(1/2cup)crèmefraîche(soldinthespecialtycheesesectionofsomesupermarkets)

3 Tbs.granulatedsugar

1 cupcoldheavycream

Inalargebowl,whisk the crème fraîche with the sugar until smooth. in a sepa-rate large bowl, whip the cream with an electric hand-held or stand mixer until the cream just barely reaches the firm-peak stage (it should hold a peak when the beater is pulled away, but it shouldn’t be grainy). With a rubber spatula, gently fold half of the whipped cream into the crème fraîche and then gently fold in the remaining half. cover and refrigerate until ready to serve; whisk a few times before serving.

berry compote Sweet-tart berries are the perfect complement to the toasted hazelnuts in the waffles. Yieldsabout3cups

2 tsp.cornstarch

1 Tbs.fruitbrandyorwater

2 10-oz.packagesfrozenmixedberries(or4 heapingcups),thawed,withtheirjuices

1 cupgranulatedsugar

Finelygratedzestfrom1lemon

1/4 tsp.groundallspice

1/4 tsp.groundcinnamon

Inasmallbowl,dissolve the cornstarch in the brandy or water. Set aside. combine the thawed berries and their juices, sugar, lemon zest, allspice, and cinna mon in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring often until the sugar dissolves. When bubbles appear on the side of the pan, just before the fruit reaches a full boil, quickly stir in the cornstarch mixture. Let the fruit boil for only 1 minute to cook the cornstarch; overcooking will make the fruit disintegrate. Remove from the heat. The compote will thicken further as it cools. make the compote a day or two ahead and refrigerate until needed. The compote may be served at room temperature or slightly warm.

hazelnut wafflesThe finely ground hazelnuts that go into this batter add a nice nuttiness to the finished waffles. You can top them with maple syrup, but berries and whipped cream (below) will give them a more festive feel.Yields61/2cupsbatter,enoughforabout12standardwaffles

3 oz.(2/3cup)hazelnuts,toasted andskinned

9 oz.(2cups)unbleached all-purposeflour

23/4 oz.(2/3cup)cakeflour

1 Tbs.bakingpowder

1/2 tsp.bakingsoda

3/4 tsp.tablesalt

23/4 cupsbuttermilk

1/2 cupvegetableoil

4 largeeggs

1/3 cupgranulatedsugar

11/2 tsp.purevanillaextract

Vegetableoilornonstick cookingsprayforthewaffleiron

Warmmaplesyrupandbutter, forserving

Witharotarygrater, finely grind the hazelnuts. (or process the hazelnuts with 2 Tbs. of the flour in a food processor until finely ground.) Inalargebowl,whisk the ground hazelnuts, all-purpose and cake flours, baking powder, baking soda, and table salt until well combined. in another bowl, whisk the buttermilk, oil, eggs, sugar, and vanilla until well combined. With a very open whisk or a rubber spatula, lightly stir the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients until just combined (small lumps in the batter are fine). Letthebatterrest for at least 20 minutes (and up to 2 hours in the refrigerator). cook the waffles according to your waffle iron manufacturer’s instructions. in a Belgian waffle maker, the waffles have a tender interior; in a standard waffle maker, they’ll be crisper.



A strata is like an italian quiche, but instead of an involved pastry crust, leftover bread forms the egg custard base. As with a bread pudding, assemble this dish ahead of time and refriger-ate it unbaked for up to 2 days. it’s up to you whether or not to trim the bread crusts—they give the strata a heartier texture.Serves 8

2 Tbs. unsalted butter; more for the pan

1 lb. asparagus, ends snapped off, cut into 11/2-inch pieces

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

31/2 oz. oyster mushrooms (or shiitake or white mushrooms), stemmed and thinly sliced

6 scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced, whites and greens separated (2 Tbs. whites, 1/2 cup greens)

9 large eggs, beaten

23/4 cups milk (preferably whole)

1 large loaf (about 1 lb.) rustic white bread (like ciabatta), cut into 1-inch cubes

1/2 lb. thinly sliced deli ham, cut into 1-inch strips

3 cups grated extra-sharp Cheddar (about 8 oz.)

Melt the butter in a large (12-inch) skillet over medium-high heat. Add the asparagus, sprinkle with 1/2 tsp. each salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the spears start to brown and soften, about 3 minutes. Add the mushrooms and scallion whites and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms soften and cook through, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool for a couple of minutes.Butter a 9x13-inch baking dish. Whisk the eggs with the milk and 1/2 tsp. each salt and pepper. Spread the bread in a single layer on the bot-tom of the baking dish. Top with half of the egg mixture and then cover with half of the ham, cheese, and asparagus mixture, and sprinkle with half the scallion greens. Repeat with the remaining egg mixture, ham, cheese, aspara-gus mixture, and scallions. cover with plastic, pressing down so the bread is completely sub-merged in the egg mixture, and refrigerate for at least 4 hours and up to 2 days before baking.Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°f. Let the strata sit at room temperature while the oven heats. Bake until the custard sets and the top browns, about 30 minutes. Loosely cover with foil and bake for another 20 minutes. Let cool for 10 minutes before cutting.

asparagus, ham, and mushroom strata

apple, sage, and fennel breakfast sausageThese sausages are full of flavor with the addition of sautéed apple and crushed fennel seeds. Yields 16 21/2-inch patties; serves 8

3 Tbs. vegetable oil; more as needed

2 tart cooking apples (15 oz. total), such as Granny Smith or Pink Lady, peeled, cored, and cut into 1/4-inch dice

1 bunch scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced, white and green parts divided

2 lb. ground pork (avoid pork labeled “extra tender,” if possible)

1/2 cup loosely packed fresh sage leaves, finely chopped

11/2 tsp. fennel seeds, crushed in a mortar or lightly chopped

Table salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat the oven to 200°f. in a 10-inch skillet, heat 1 Tbs. of the oil over medium heat. Add the apples and the scal-lion whites. cook, stirring occasionally, until the apples soften and just begin to brown, 5 to 8 minutes. Let cool for 10 minutes. in a large bowl, combine the apple mixture with the pork, scallion greens, sage, fennel seeds, 1 tsp. salt, and 3/4 tsp. pepper. mix with your hands until well combined, but don’t compact the mixture. gently shape into 16 pat-ties, about 3 inches in diameter and 3/4 inch thick.In a 12-inch heavy skillet, or a grill pan, heat the remaining 2 Tbs. oil over medium-low to medium heat. cook the sausages (in batches so they’re not crowded) until nicely browned and cooked through, about 5 minutes per side. Add more oil only if needed after each batch, and adjust the heat to pre-vent overbrowning.

This twist on bagels and lox gets a flavor boost from orange zest and coriander.Yields 8

3 firm-ripe medium avocados, cut into medium dice

2 medium scallions, thinly sliced

1/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro; whole leaves for garnish

2 Tbs. plus 2 tsp. fresh lime juice

1 to 11/2 tsp. finely chopped jalapeño

Kosher salt

4 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

1 tsp. toasted coriander seeds, coarsely ground

1/2 tsp. (scant) finely grated orange zest

1 lb. thinly sliced cold-smoked salmon, cut into 11/2-inch-wide strips

8 slices sourdough bread (each 61/2 inches long and 1/2 inch thick), toasted very crisp

2 medium cloves garlic, halved

In a large bowl, gently mix (don’t mash) the avocado, scallion, chopped cilantro, lime juice, jalapeño, and 1/2 tsp. salt. in another medium bowl, mix the oil, coriander, and orange zest. Toss the salmon with the oil mixture. Rub the toasts lightly with the cut sides of the garlic clove. Portion the avocado mixture among the toasts. Pile the salmon strips on top. garnish with the cilantro leaves and serve immediately so the toast stays crisp.

open-faced smoked salmon and avocado sandwiches


Brandied Apricot-Almond Slab Pie, p. 52

FCSIP48_OnTheGo_final.indd 48 12/22/10 3:15 PM


smoky black bean and cheddar burritos with spinachmake the bean mixture the night before. in the morning, just spread it on the tortilla, roll it, and hit the road.Serves 4

4 burrito-size (9- to 10-inch) flour tortillas

15 grape tomatoes (about 1 pint), quartered lengthwise

2 Tbs. fresh lime juice; more as needed

1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro

Kosher salt


1/4 cup raw pepitas (optional)

1 tsp. seeded and minced chipotle plus 1 tsp. adobo sauce (from a can of chipotles en adobo)

3/4 tsp. ground cumin

1 19-oz. can black beans, drained and rinsed

1/2 cup grated sharp Cheddar

11/2 oz. baby spinach (about 11/2 cups)

1/4 to 1/2 cup sour cream (optional)

Heat the oven to 250°f. Wrap the tortillas in aluminum foil and warm in the oven. Meanwhile, in a small bowl toss the tomatoes with 1 Tbs. of the lime juice, about 11/2 Tbs. of the cilantro, and a generous pinch of salt. Set aside. if using the pepitas, heat 1 Tbs. of the olive oil and the pepitas in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat. cook, stirring frequently, until they’re puffed and some are golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the pepitas to a plate lined with a paper towel. Sprinkle with a generous pinch of salt and toss. Return the pan to medium heat. Add the remaining 1 Tbs. olive oil (or, if not using pepitas, heat the 2 Tbs. oil). Add the chipotle, adobo sauce, and cumin. Stir to blend into the oil, and then add the beans and 2 Tbs. water to the pan, stirring to blend. Simmer until warmed through, about 2 minutes. Reduce heat to low. mash about half of the beans with a fork. Stir in the cheddar and the remain-ing 21/2 Tbs. cilantro and 1 Tbs. lime juice. Season to taste with salt. if the beans seem too thick, add 1 to 2 Tbs. water to thin to a soft, spreadable consistency.Working with one tortilla at a time, spread about a quarter of the beans along the bottom third of a tortilla. Top with a quarter of the spinach, and sprinkle with about a quarter of the tomatoes and pepitas (if using). if you like, add a little lime juice and sour cream on top. fold the bottom edge over the filling, fold in the sides, and roll up the burrito.

french-style grilled ham and gruyèreforget take-out breakfast sandwiches: This grilled ham and cheese gets a twist from Dijon mustard and tarragon.Serves 4

6 oz. coarsely grated Gruyère

2 tsp. chopped fresh tarragon (or 1 tsp. dried)

4 tsp. salted butter, at room temperature

8 1/4-inch-thick slices egg bread, such as challah or brioche

2 Tbs. Dijon mustard; more for serving

4 thin slices (about 1/4 lb. total) Black Forest ham

In a small bowl, mix the cheese and tarragon. Butter all the bread slices on one side only. Put four slices, buttered side down, on a cutting board. Distribute the cheese over the bread and top with the ham, folding the ham slices if they’re large. Spread about 11/2 tsp. mustard on the un buttered side of the remaining bread slices and set them, mustard side down, on top. Heat a large nonstick pan or griddle over medium-high heat for 2 minutes. Put as many sandwiches as will fit in the pan or on the griddle without crowding, cover, and cook until the cheese has just begun to melt and the bread is golden brown, about 2 minutes. Remove the lid and turn the sandwiches, pressing each one firmly with a spatula to flatten it slightly. cook the sandwiches uncov-ered until the bottom is golden brown, about 1 minute. Turn them once more and press with the spatula again to recrisp the bread, about 30 seconds. cut in half and serve immediately, with more mustard on the side.


52 b r e a k f a s t 2 0 1 1

slab pies are like giant Pop-tarts designed to feed a crowd. as the pie cools, the filling—made with apricots both fresh and dried—firms up enough that the slices can be eaten out of hand. Yields 1 large pie; serves 10

FOR THE DOUGH

15 oz. (3 1/3 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour

3 Tbs. granulated sugar

1/2 tsp. kosher salt

9 oz. (1 cup plus 2 Tbs.) cold unsalted butter, cut into 18 pieces

11/2 oz. (3 Tbs.) cold vegetable shortening, cut into 3 pieces

FOR THE FILLING

101/2 oz. (about 2 cups) dried apricots, coarsely chopped


2/3 cup dry white wine

1/3 cup orange juice

12 oz. fresh apricots (about 6 small), pitted and sliced

11/4 tsp. fresh lemon juice

31/2 oz. (1 cup) sliced almonds, toasted

11/2 Tbs. brandy

1/4 tsp. pure almond extract

FOR ASSEMBLY

1 large egg yolk

2 oz. (1/2 cup) confectioners’ sugar, sifted

11/2 Tbs. heavy cream or whole milk

1/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract

MAkE THE DOUGH

Put the flour, sugar, and salt in a food proces-sor. add the butter and vegetable shortening and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse meal, 10 to 12 pulses. sprinkle 1/3 cup cold water over the mixture and pulse until the dough just starts to come together, 8 to 10 pulses more. If the mixture seems dry, add more water 1 tsp. at a time. Do not overprocess. Turn the dough out onto a clean work surface, and gather it into a rectangle that’s about 8 by 12 inches. flatten slightly, wrap in plastic and refrigerate for at least 2 hours and up to 3 days.

MAkE THE FILLING

In a heavy-duty 4-quart saucepan, combine the dried apricots, sugar, wine, orange juice, and 2/3 cup water. simmer over medium-low heat, stirring often, until the apricots are very tender and can be mashed with a wooden spoon, 40 to 45 minutes. add more water if the apricots are still not soft after most of the liquid has evaporated. the mixture should get

thick and syrupy; don’t let it scorch. add the fresh apricots and lemon juice and cook, stir-ring often, until very soft, about 10 minutes. Mash the mixture with a wooden spoon or potato masher so that it has a thick, jam-like consistency. remove from the heat.Stir ¾ cup of the almonds, the brandy, and almond extract into the apricot mixture. Cool to room temperature and set aside. (the fill-ing can be made, covered, and refrigerated up to 2 days ahead.)

ASSEMBLE AND BAkE THE pIE

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 375°f. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with parchment. In a small bowl, beat the egg yolk with 1 tsp. water.On a lightly floured surface with a lightly floured rolling pin, roll the dough into a 1/8-inch-thick, 12x18-inch rectangle. be sure to loosen the dough several times and reflour under-neath so that it doesn’t stick. trim the dough into an 11x16-inch rectangle and transfer it to the baking sheet. turn the baking sheet so that a long side faces you, and brush the edges of the dough with the egg wash. spread the apricot filling evenly over the bottom half of the dough, leaving a ½-inch border. fold the top half of the dough over the filling, pressing along the edges to secure the sides. Press lightly along the edges with the back of a fork to seal. brush egg wash all over the top of the dough. Using a paring knife, cut 5 small steam vents in the dough at about 3-inch intervals.Bake until the pie is golden-brown, 55 min-utes. transfer to a rack to cool completely.

In a small bowl, mix the confectioners’ sugar, cream, and vanilla extract to form a smooth glaze that’s just fluid enough to drizzle. With a spoon, drizzle the glaze over the top of the pie and immediately sprinkle with the remain-ing 1/4 cup almonds. allow to set for at least 2 hours before serving. When ready to serve, use a serrated knife to cut the pie. the pie is best eaten the day it’s made, but it will keep for 1 day, well wrapped, at room temperature.

brandied apricot-almond slab pie

seal rightto seal the filled pie, press a fork down gently, just enough to create a good bond (and a pretty crimped effect), but not so hard that it pushes through to the second layer of dough or pierces it, which may cause the filling to leak.

on the go



leftover brieAlthough brie is tradition-ally spread on crackers or bread, it’s also a delicious ingredient in savory cook-ing. Try folding leftover brie into mashed potatoes, risotto, or polenta, where it will add sharp richness—just be sure to remove the rind first.

Remove the rind from the brie while the cheese is still cold. for a meaty flavor and texture, choose a thinly sliced ham steak rather than deli ham. Look for a ham steak that’s labeled “ham in natural juices.”Serves 4

1 large baguette (about 1 lb), cut into 4 pieces

7 oz. brie, most of the rind trimmed off, thinly sliced

2 Tbs. unsalted butter

1½ medium Granny Smith apples, peeled (optional), cored, and cut into ¼-inch-thick wedges (about 1½ cups)

¾ lb. ham steak, thinly sliced on the diagonal

2 Tbs. whole-grain Dijon mustard

1 Tbs. honey

1 tsp. chopped fresh thyme

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 425°f. Split the baguette pieces lengthwise, open them up like a book, and top one side with the brie. Set on a baking sheet lined with parchment or aluminum foil and bake until the cheese melts and the bread lightly browns, about 5 minutes. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a large (12-inch) heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add the apples and cook, tossing every minute or so, until they start to soften and brown in places, 3 to 4 min-utes. Add the ham and cook, tossing gently, until it warms. Remove from the heat and gently toss with the mustard, honey, and thyme until the ham and apples are evenly coated. Using tongs, distribute the ham mixture into the warm pieces of baguette, secure with 2 tooth-picks, cut in half, and serve.

oven-toasted ham, brie, and apple sandwiches


54 b r e a k f a s t 2 0 1 1

on the go

chinese pork and mushroom wrapsthis asian take on a soft burrito can be eaten out of hand, hot or cold. It’s a great way to use up pork loin leftovers. Serves 6 to 8

6 cups thinly sliced green cabbage (about 3/4 lb.)

Kosher salt

2 Tbs. hoisin sauce (we like Koon Chun or Lee Kum Kee brands), plus 1/2 cup for serving

1 Tbs. soy sauce

2 tsp. Asian sesame oil

1 tsp. rice vinegar

3 Tbs. canola or peanut oil

2 cups matchstick-cut already cooked roasted pork loin (about 1/2 lb.)

1 bunch scallions, trimmed, whites and light green parts thinly sliced and green parts cut into 2-inch pieces (keep separate)

1/2 lb. fresh shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and thinly sliced (about 4 cups)

2 large eggs, beaten

2 tsp. minced fresh ginger

2 tsp. minced garlic

6 to 8 medium (about 8-inch diameter) flour tortillas, warmed

Put the cabbage in a colander over the sink and toss with 1/2 tsp. salt. Let sit for 10 minutes. transfer to a baking sheet lined with paper towels and pat dry.In a small bowl, mix 2 tbs. of the hoisin sauce with the soy sauce, sesame oil, and vinegar. set aside.In a 12-inch heavy-duty nonstick skillet, heat 1 tbs. of the canola oil over medium-high heat until shimmering. add the pork, sprinkle lightly with salt and cook, stirring, until it starts to brown around the edges, about 3 minutes. transfer to a large plate. add another 1 tbs. oil to the pan and once it’s shimmering, add the scallion whites, the mushrooms, and 1/4 tsp. salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until they brown and soften, 2 to 3 minutes. Push the mushroom mixture to one side of the pan and add the eggs. Cook, scrambling and breaking up with a wooden spoon or spatula into small pieces, until just set, about 1 minute. transfer the contents of the skillet to the plate with the pork.Heat the remaining 1 tbs. oil and add the scallion greens, cabbage, ginger, and garlic. Cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 2 minutes. add the reserved hoisin mixture and the pork mixture to the cabbage and stir to distribute the hoisin. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 1 minute to meld the flavors. spread about 1 tbs. of the hoisin down the center of a tortilla, arrange a generous amount of the pork mixture over the hoisin, and wrap in the tortilla, burrito-style.

watermelon, tomato, and feta saladPop this into a plastic container and pack a fork for a fruit-filled start to your day. Serves 6 to 8

2 large yellow tomatoes (about 11/4 lb.), cored and cut into 3/4-inch pieces

1 lb. seedless watermelon, trimmed of rind and cut into 3/4-inch pieces

2 Tbs. chopped fresh mint


11/2 Tbs. red wine vinegar

1/4 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes

Kosher salt

8 oz. feta, cut into 3/4-inch pieces

Coarse sea salt (optional)

In a large serving bowl, combine the tomatoes, water-melon, and mint. In a small bowl, whisk the oil, vinegar, red pepper flakes, and 1 tsp. kosher salt. Pour over the tomato mixture and toss well. Let the mixture sit for 15 minutes at room temperature. fold in the feta and toss well. Serve, sprinkled lightly with the coarse sea salt, if using (use about 1/2 tsp.—it adds a bit of texture); this salad can sit for 1 to 2 hours at room temperature.





apple brown-butter jalousie The filling for this oversized toaster pastry can be made and stored in a covered con-tainer in the refrigerator for up to 2 days. Yields one 6x14-inch jalousie pastry; serves 8

11/4 to 11/2 lb. Granny Smith apples (about 3 medium), peeled, halved lengthwise, cored, and sliced crosswise into 1/2-inch-thick slices

1/4 cup packed light or dark brown sugar


1 tsp. fresh lemon juice



Pinch of freshly grated or ground nutmeg


1 vanilla bean, split and seeds scraped out with the back of a knife

1 large egg

1 sheet frozen packaged puff pastry (Pepperidge Farm brand), thawed overnight in the fridge or according to package instructions

Flour, for rolling

1 tsp. demerara, turbinado, or granulated sugar

Crème fraîche, lightly sweetened whipped cream, or vanilla ice cream, for serving (optional)

Make The FillinG

in a large bowl, toss the apples, brown sugar, granulated sugar, lemon juice, cinnamon, salt, and nutmeg.in a 12-inch skillet, melt the butter over medium heat until the milk solids turn golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from the heat, add the vanilla seeds, and stir. carefully add the apple mixture to the skillet; with a heat-proof rubber spatula, scrape all the sugar and spices from the bowl into the skillet. Stir the apples to coat them with the butter and then spread them in a fairly even layer. Return the pan to medium heat and cook, stirring gently with the spatula every few min-utes (try not to break the apple slices), until the apples are tender but not mushy (taste one) and still hold their shape, and the juices have cooked down to a fairly thick, brown, bubbling syrup, 10 to 13 minutes. Scrape the apples into a wide shallow dish or onto a baking sheet to cool completely before assembling the jalousie.

aSSeMble The jalouSie

Line a large rimmed baking sheet with parch-ment. in a small bowl, make an egg wash by beating the egg with 1 Tbs. water until well combined. Unfold the pastry dough on a floured surface and gently pinch together any seams that have split. With a floured rolling pin, roll the dough into a 12x14-inch rectangle. With a sharp knife, cut the rect-angle in half lengthwise to form two 6x14-inch rectangles. Use a long spatula to help you move one of the dough rectangles onto the prepared baking sheet. use a pastry brush to brush a 1-inch border of egg wash around the perimeter of the dough. (Save the remaining egg wash.) Arrange the fruit in a 4-inch-wide strip down the length of the dough. (Shingle the apple slices in a thick herringbone pattern down the length of the dough; you may need to make a double layer of apples.) Some syrupy apple juices will likely remain in the dish; spoon 2 to 3 Tbs. over the apples. if some of the liquid seeps onto the egg-washed border, don’t worry about it.lightly dust the remaining piece of puff pastry with flour and then gently fold it in half lengthwise; don’t crease the fold. Using a sharp knife, cut 11/2-inch-long slashes at 1-inch intervals along the folded side of the dough; leave at least a 1-inch border on the remaining three sides. Do not unfold the dough. Using a long spatula, gently lift the folded strip and position it over the fruit-filled dough rectangle, matching up the straight edges.

Gently unfold the top piece of dough and stretch it over the filling, matching the straight edges all the way around the perim-eter of the dough. Press the edges gently with your fingertips to seal the dough, and then, with a fork, very gently crimp the edges of the dough all the way around the pastry.Chill the assembled jalousie for 15 to 20 min-utes. meanwhile, position a rack in the lower third of the oven and heat the oven to 400°f.

bake The jalouSie

Right before baking, brush the top of the jalousie with a very light coating of the remaining egg wash (you won’t need it all) and sprinkle with the demerara, turbinado, or granulated sugar.bake for 15 minutes and then rotate the baking sheet. continue baking until the pastry is puffed, deep golden brown on top, and light golden brown on the bottom (use a spatula to gently lift the jalousie so you can peek underneath), another 10 to 15 minutes. immediately transfer the jalousie from the baking sheet to a wire rack and let cool for at least 45 minutes. (instead of trying to move the hot jalousie with a spatula, lift the parch-ment to move the jalousie to the rack and then carefully slide the paper out from under the pastry.)Serve slightly warm or at room tempera-ture with crème fraîche, lightly sweetened whipped cream, or vanilla ice cream, if you like. it’s best the day it’s made, but the jalou-sie will keep, wrapped well in aluminum foil, for 3 days. You can reheat it in a 325°f oven for 5 minutes before serving.


58 b r e a k f a s t 2 0 1 1

on the go

stuffed with ham and cheese, these croissants are a decadent take on the traditional breakfast sandwich.Yields 15

For the dough

1 lb. 2 oz. (4 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour; more for rolling

5 oz. (1/2 cup plus 2 tbs.) cold water

5 oz. (1/2 cup plus 2 tbs.) cold whole milk

2 oz. (1/4 cup plus 2 tbs.) granulated sugar

11/2 oz. (3 tbs.) soft unsalted butter

1 tbs. plus scant 1/2 tsp. instant yeast

21/4 tsp. table salt

For the butter laYer

10 oz. (11/4 cups) cold unsalted butter

For the egg wash and Filling

1 large egg

1/2 lb. sliced ham

1/2 lb. thinly sliced Cheddar or gruyère

MaKe the dough

Combine all of the dough ingredi-ents in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook. Mix on low speed for 3 minutes, scrap-ing the sides of the bowl once if necessary. Mix on medium speed for 3 minutes. transfer the dough to a lightly floured 10-inch pie pan or a dinner plate. Lightly flour the top of the dough and wrap well with plastic so it doesn’t dry out. refrigerate overnight.

MaKe the butter laYer

the next day, cut the cold butter lengthwise into 1/2-inch-thick slabs. arrange the slabs on a piece of parchment or waxed paper to form a 5- to 6-inch square, cutting the butter cross-wise as necessary to fit. top with an other piece of parchment or waxed paper. With a rolling pin, pound the butter with light, even strokes. as the pieces begin to adhere, use more force. Pound the butter until it’s about 71/2

inches square and then trim the edges of the butter. Put the trim-mings on top of the square and pound them in lightly with the rolling pin. refrigerate while you roll out the dough.

laMinate the dough

Unwrap and lay the dough on a lightly floured work surface. roll into a 101/2-inch square. brush excess flour off the dough. remove the butter from the refrigerator—it should be pliable but cold. If not, refrigerate a bit longer. Unwrap and place the butter on the dough so that the points of the butter square are centered along the sides of the dough. fold one flap of dough over the butter toward you, stretching it slightly so that the point just reaches the center of the butter. repeat with the other flaps. then press the edges together to completely seal the butter inside the dough. (a com-plete seal ensures butter won’t escape.)lightly flour the top and bottom of the dough. With the rolling pin, firmly press the dough to elongate it slightly and then begin rolling instead of pressing, focus-ing on lengthening rather than widening the dough and keeping the edges straight . roll the dough until it’s 8x24 inches. If the ends lose their square shape, gently reshape the corners with your hands. brush any flour off the dough. Pick up one short end of the dough and fold it back over the dough, leaving one-third of the other end of dough exposed. brush the flour off and then fold the exposed dough over the folded side. Put the dough on a baking sheet, cover with plastic wrap, and freeze for 20 minutes to relax and chill the dough.repeat the rolling and folding, this time roll ing in the direction of the two open ends until the dough is about 8x24 inches. fold the dough in thirds again, brushing off excess flour and turning under any rounded edges

layer for flavorthinly sliced ham and sliced or grated cheese—a good Cheddar or Gruyère is best—make the classic croissant deliciously savory.

ham and cheese croissants



individual cinnamon coffee cakes with chocolate-cherry-almond swirlif you want to bake these fresh for special overnight guests, start the dough the day before and get up early the next day to finish in time for a leisurely breakfast. The cakes also freeze like a dream. Wrap unglazed cooled cakes well in plastic wrap and freeze for up to a month. Defrost them overnight (or for a few hours) in the refrigerator and warm them in a low oven before heading out the door.Serves 8

For the dough

1/2 cup warm whole milk (about 105°F)

11/2 tsp. active dry yeast

1/3 cup plus 2 tsp. granulated sugar

9 oz. (2 cups) all-purpose flour

1/2 tsp. table salt

1 tsp. ground cinnamon

2 large eggs, lightly beaten

5 oz. (10 tbs.) very soft unsalted butter

1/2 cup sliced almonds, toasted

For the Filling

1/4 lb. semisweet chocolate

6 oz. (about 1 cup) dried cherries

1 cup sliced almonds, toasted



1 large egg, separated

1/2 tsp. whole milk

For the glaze

1 cup confectioners’ sugar

4 to 5 tsp. strong brewed coffee

a day beFore baking, make the dough

in the bowl of a stand mixer, gently whisk the warm milk with the yeast to combine. Sprinkle with 2 tsp. of the sugar. Let the yeast proof until air pockets float up, making the mixture look spongy, 5 to 10 minutes.add the remaining dough ingredients and mix with the paddle attachment on medium-low speed until the dough comes together, and then continue mixing for 6 minutes to knead the dough, scraping the sides of the bowl once or twice. The dough should be loose and seem more like a tacky batter.immediately scrape the dough into a greased bowl that’s at least twice the dough’s size, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and refrigerate overnight.

make the Filling

The next morning, put the chocolate in a food processor and pulse to chop coarsely. Add the dried cherries, almonds, sugar, and cinnamon and pulse until quite fine. Add the egg white and process just until the ingredients form a rough paste. (cover the leftover yolk and refrigerate.)

aSSemble the bread

grease 8 cups of a 12-cup muffin pan. Scrape the chilled dough onto a liberally floured surface. Using a well-floured rolling pin, gently roll the dough into a rectangle about 12x8 inches. Work quickly; the warmer the dough gets, the harder it is to handle. Spread the filling by hand over the dough, leaving a 1-inch border on all four sides. it’s all right if it’s a bit uneven. Starting with a long side, roll the dough into a log shape. if the dough sticks to the work surface, use a bench knife or a spatula to lift it. brush the excess flour from the top and sides of the dough roll. Using a sharp knife, trim the ends of the roll just enough to expose the spiral of filling. Discard the trimmings. cut the roll into 8 equal slices (each about 11/2 to 2 inches wide). Set each slice, spiral side up, in a greased muffin cup, brushing the flour from the bottom of each piece as you go. Press very gently to be sure each piece reaches the bottom of the cup. Pour a few Tbs. of water into the empty, ungreased cups. Cover the dough with a clean, damp dishtowel or an oversize plastic storage container (to make a little “greenhouse”) and let rise until light and billowy, 11/2 to 2 hours.meanwhile, heat the oven to 350°f. make an egg wash by mixing the reserved egg yolk with the 1/2 tsp. milk. Just before baking, brush the dough with the egg wash. Bake until puffed and deep golden, 20 to 25 minutes. Let cool for 10 to 15 minutes. carefully siphon or drain the water from the extra cups and wipe dry. Loosen under the edge of the cakes’ caps with the tip of a paring knife. if the cakes grew together during baking, cut between them to separate. Turn onto a cooling rack.

make and apply the glaze

in a cup, mix the confectioners’ sugar and coffee to make a smooth paste. it should be thick but still pourable. Drizzle over the cakes after they have cooled slightly.


Creamy Coconut Oatmeal with Dried Peaches and Candied Coconut Pecans, p. 71

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Quick start

66 b r e a k f a s t 2 0 1 1

baked eggs with chives and creamthese eggs are surprisingly easy: they’re ready in about 10 minutes. Serves 2

2 tsp. unsalted butter, softened

4 large eggs


1½ tsp. chopped fresh chives

2 Tbs. heavy cream

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 425°f. butter two 6-inch gratin dishes with 1 tsp. butter each. Crack 2 eggs into each gratin dish. season with a pinch of salt and pepper and sprinkle with the chives. Drizzle 1 tbs. cream in each dish, starting over the yolks and working around the dish. bake until the eggs are bubbly and browned on the edges but not quite set in the middle, 5 minutes. (for firmer eggs, bake an additional 1 minute .)Heat the broiler on high. broil the eggs, still on the center rack of the oven, until the center is just set, about 2 minutes. remove from the oven immediately—the eggs will continue to set.

candied baconthis maple syrup-coated, brown sugar-crusted bacon is the perfect salty-sweet marriage.Serves 2

6 slices thick-cut bacon

2 Tbs. plus 1 tsp. pure maple syrup

1½ Tbs. light brown sugar

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 425°f. arrange the bacon slices on a rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle both sides with the maple syrup and then sprinkle both sides evenly with the brown sugar. bake until browned and crisp, 20 to 22 minutes.

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76 b r e a k f a s t 2 0 1 1

breakfast for dinner

creamy fontina polenta with mushroom ragùthis warm and comforting dish gets a “meaty” feel from sauteed mushrooms.Serves 6

Kosher salt

1 cup coarse yellow cornmeal

2 Tbs. olive oil

4 oz. fresh cremini mushrooms, trimmed and sliced

1 medium clove garlic, minced

1½ cups (1 oz. ) mixed dried mushrooms, rehydrated (see below) and chopped, plus ¾ cup of the soaking liquid

2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme

Freshly ground black pepper

1½ cups grated Fontina (about 6 oz.)

In a 3-quart saucepan, bring 4½ cups water to a boil. Whisk in 1½ tsp. salt and then the cornmeal. reduce the heat to medium low and cook, stirring occasionally, until the cornmeal is tender and absorbs all the liquid, about 30 minutes. Meanwhile, make the mushroom ragù. Heat the oil in a 10-inch skillet over medium-high heat. add the fresh mushrooms and cook, stirring, until they soften, 3 to 4 minutes. reduce the heat to medium, add the garlic, and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. add the rehydrated mushrooms and their liquid, the thyme, ¼ tsp. salt, and ½ tsp. pepper; cover with the lid partially ajar and cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid is a saucy consistency and the mushrooms soften, 7 to 8 minutes. Stir the Fontina into the polenta. taste and season with salt as needed. serve the polenta topped with the ragù.

rehydrating dried mushroomsPlace the mushrooms in a medium heatproof bowl. submerge the mushrooms under 2 cups of boiling water, or enough to cover them by about an inch, and weight down with a small plate. soak until the mushrooms are plumped and softened, about 20 minutes. transfer the mushrooms to a cutting board, squeezing any excess liquid from the mushrooms. Let cool. remove and discard any tough stems.

transform pork leftovers by making a hash topped with poached eggs.Serves 4

1½ lb. russet potatoes, peeled and cut into small dice (about 3¾ cups)

Kosher salt

2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil; more as needed

1 medium yellow onion, cut into small dice (about 11/4 cups)

21/4 cups leftover finely shredded already-cooked pork

2 medium cloves garlic, finely chopped

½ tsp. white wine vinegar or lemon juice

4 large eggs

1 large ripe avocado, sliced

1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro

Piment d’Espelette or other medium-hot red chile flakes (optional)

Put the potatoes in a medium saucepan, add water to cover by about 3/4 inch, and add 1 tbs. salt. bring to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat to maintain a simmer, and cook until the potatoes are tender but not falling apart, about 5 min-utes. Drain the potatoes, transfer to a plate, and set aside.Heat the oil in a 10-inch straight-sided sauté pan over medium-high

heat. add the onion and ½ tsp. salt and cook, stirring occasionally until soft, 5 to 7 minutes. add the pork and continue to cook until the pork is warm, about 3 minutes. add the garlic and cook, stirring, until the raw garlic aroma subsides, about 1 minute. add the potatoes, toss gently to combine, and continue to cook, stirring, until heated through, 1 to 3 minutes more. season to taste with salt. If the hash is a little dry, add a drizzle of olive oil. keep warm.Fill a medium saucepan with 3 inches of water. add the vinegar and a pinch of salt, and bring the water to a simmer. Crack the eggs one at a time into a small bowl or teacup and then gently slide each egg into the water. Poach the eggs, gently turning once or twice until the whites are completely opaque but the yolks are still soft, 3 to 4 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove the eggs from the water and gently blot dry with a towel. Portion the hash among 4 plates. Prop a poached egg and a few slices of avocado next to each portion. sprinkle the egg and avocado with salt. sprinkle the cilantro and piment d’espelette (if using) over the hash, and serve immediately.

pork and potato hash with poached eggs and avocado

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maple syrup brings a bit of breakfast flavor to any meal.Serves 2

4 thin (1/2-inch) boneless center-cut pork chops

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

3/4 cup homemade or lower-salt chicken broth or water

2 Tbs. dark rum

1 Tbs. pure maple syrup, preferably grade B


2 Tbs. olive oil; more if needed

1 Tbs. minced fresh ginger

1 medium clove garlic, finely chopped

11/2 Tbs. unsalted butter

1 Tbs. finely chopped fresh cilantro

1/2 Tbs. finely chopped fresh mint

Pat the pork chops dry with paper towels. Put the flour on a plate. combine the broth or water, rum, and maple syrup in a measur-ing cup or small bowl; set aside. generously season the pork chops on both sides with salt and pepper. Dredge the chops in the flour and shake off the excess. Heat a large skillet on medium-high heat for 1 minute. Add the oil, and when it’s hot, set the chops in the pan (if they won’t fit without crowding, cook them in batches). cook until one side is light golden, about 2 minutes. Turn the pieces and cook until the other side is light golden and the meat is cooked through but still moist, another 1 to 2 min-utes. (Because the meat is so thin, it can’t get more than light golden on each side without becoming overcooked and dry.) Transfer the chops to a plate and repeat with the remaining chops, if necessary.Add the ginger and garlic to the pan and stir constantly until they begin to turn golden, 5 to 10 seconds, and then immediately add the maple-rum mixture to the pan. Use a wooden spoon or spatula to scrape up the browned bits and help them dissolve. Boil until the sauce has reduced by about two-thirds and is nicely saucy, 3 to 4 minutes. off the heat, add the butter, swirling the pan vigorously (or whisking) as it melts so it emulsifies the sauce. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Spoon the sauce over the pork and then sprinkle on the cilantro and mint. Serve right away.

pork chops with maple-ginger pan sauce


80 b r e a k f a s t 2 0 1 1

braised sausages with balsamic-glazed onions and grapessausage and grapes are a classic Italian pairing. the addition of balsamic vinegar and caramel-ized onions turns this into a quick, warming braise. Piercing the sausages with the tines of a fork will allow them to release some of their juices and infuse the broth. Serves 4

3 Tbs. olive oil

8 links sweet Italian sausage (about 2 lb.), pricked with a fork

1 large yellow onion, thinly sliced (about 2 cups)

Kosher salt

1/2 cup homemade or lower-salt chicken broth

2 Tbs. balsamic vinegar

20 seedless red grapes, halved

2 Tbs. chopped fresh oregano

In a large (12-inch) skillet, heat 1 tbs. of the oil over medium heat until it’s shimmering. add the sausages and cook, turning every couple of minutes, until they’re browned all over, about 8 minutes. transfer to a large plate. Add the remaining 2 Tbs. oil and the onion to the pot, sprinkle with 1/2 tsp. salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion softens completely and starts to turn light brown, about 7 minutes. add the chicken broth and balsamic vinegar and scrape the bottom of the pot with a wooden spoon to incorporate any browned bits. reduce to a gentle simmer (medium low or low, depending on your stovetop). add the sausages and grapes, cover the pot with the lid ajar, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sausages are cooked through (slice into one to check), about 25 minutes. serve sprinkled with the oregano.

storing links Most sausage will hold in the refrigerator for three or four days after open-ing. for longer storage, pack a couple of links in a zip-top bag and freeze for up to three months. When ready to use, thaw in the refrigerator.

tomato and mozzarella omeletPaired with a green salad and baguette, this omelet makes a satisfying dinner.Yields 1 omelet; serves 1

2 tsp. olive oil

2 Tbs. minced onion

1/2 tsp. minced garlic

Kosher salt

1/4 cup chopped and drained canned tomatoes

1 oil-packed sun-dried tomato, minced (to yield 1 tsp.)


2 large or extra-large eggs

5 leaves fresh basil, very thinly sliced (to yield 1 Tbs.)

1 tsp. unsalted butter

1 thin slice mozzarella, cut in half

1 Tbs. freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

1 Tbs. good-quality store-bought basil pesto

In a medium skillet, heat 1 tsp. of the oil over medium heat. add the onion; cook, stirring, until tender and translucent, about 5 minutes, add ing the garlic and 2 pinches of salt half way through. raise the heat to medium high. Cook, stirring, until golden, another 1 to 2 minutes. stir in the canned tomatoes; simmer until the liquid has evaporated, about 2 minutes. add the sun-dried tomatoes, sev-eral grinds of pepper, and a pinch of salt if needed. You should have about 1/4 cup filling; set aside 1 tsp. for garnish.In a medium bowl, whisk the eggs, basil, 1 tbs. water, 2 pinches of salt, and 4 grinds of pepper until the yolks and whites are well combined but not foamy. In an 8-inch heavy-duty nonstick skillet over medium-high heat, heat the remaining 1 tsp. oil and then add the butter. swirl to coat the pan.

When the butter melts, pour the eggs into the pan. With a heatproof spatula, scramble the eggs using small, circular scribbling motions until soft curds start to form, 30 to 50 seconds. as the mixture firms, spread it over the bottom of the pan; swipe the sides as needed. stop working the curds to let the omelet begin to firm and let it sit about 30 seconds. (If you like your eggs well done, let it go a bit longer.) add the mozzarella evenly, leaving a scant margin around the omelet’s edge. add the tomato filling and use your spatula to gently press them into the curds to incorporate the filling into the omelet.With the spatula, lift one-third of the omelet and fold it over the center like a business letter. tilt the pan toward the plate to slide the omelet so one-third of it hangs over the pan’s edge. Invert the pan, using the spatula to help support the omelet so that it flips neatly over itself as it slides out of the pan. Garnish with the Parmigiano, the pesto, and the reserved filling.






steak and eggs rancherosThis beefed-up version of the Mexican breakfast dish huevos rancheros (ranch-style eggs) makes a hearty dinner.Serves 2

1 tiny clove garlic

Kosher salt

1 small tomato, cut into small dice

1/2 avocado, cut into small dice

1/4 cup homemade or store-bought salsa, drained

1/4 fresh jalapeño, minced

2 Tbs. chopped fresh cilantro


1 Tbs. vegetable oil

2 6-inch corn tortillas

2 large eggs

4 to 5 oz. sliced leftover steak (about four 1/2-inch-thick slices), warmed in the microwave or in a skillet

1/4 cup crumbled feta

Peel and chop the garlic. Sprinkle the gar-lic with a generous pinch of salt and mash it into a paste with the side of a chef’s knife. In a small bowl, combine the garlic with

the tomato, avocado, salsa, jalapeño, and 1 Tbs. of the cilantro. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Have ready two dinner plates and a stack of paper towels. Heat the oil in a 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Using tongs, fry the tortillas one at a time until just golden and slightly crisp, about 30 seconds per side, and transfer to the paper towels. Reduce the heat to medium low and let the skillet cool down a bit. Meanwhile, blot the excess oil from the tortillas with the paper towels. Sprinkle each tortilla with a pinch of salt. Put one tortilla on each plate. Crack the eggs into the skillet. Season with salt and pepper, cover, and cook until the yolks’ edges have just begun to set, 2 to 3 minutes. (The eggs should cook gently, so lower the heat if needed.) While the eggs are cooking, divide half the salsa between the tortillas. Divide the steak between the tortillas and top with the remaining salsa. Separate the eggs with the edge of a spatula, if needed. Slide one egg onto each tortilla. Sprinkle with the remaining 1 Tbs. cilantro and the feta. Serve immediately.

pan-fried southwestern hashButtery fingerling potatoes and a healthy punch of spice wake up this hash. This technique—parboiling the potatoes and then sautéing them and the onions and peppers separately—ensures that the potatoes have a soft interior and crisp exterior. Serves 4 to 6

11/4 lb. fingerling potatoes, cut into 1/2-inch pieces

Kosher salt

1�3 cup canola oil

1 large yellow onion, finely diced (about 1 cup)

1/2 large red bell pepper, cut into 1/4-inch dice (about ¾ cup)

1/2 medium green bell pepper, cut into 1/4-inch dice (about 1/2 cup)

1 tsp. chili powder

1 tsp. fresh oregano


Put the potatoes in a 3-quart sauce-pan, cover with cold water by a couple of inches, stir in 1 Tbs. salt, and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer, cover, and cook until the potatoes are tender but still firm, about 10 minutes. Drain well.In a 12-inch heavy skillet, heat 3 Tbs. of the oil over medium-high heat until the oil is shimmering. Lower the heat to medium, add the potatoes, sprinkle with ¼ tsp. salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, until they brown and start to crisp, 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer to a large plate. Raise the heat to medium high, pour the remaining oil into the skillet, add the onion and bell pepper, sprinkle with ½ tsp. salt, and cook, tossing occasionally, until they brown and become some-what tender, about 4 minutes. Stir in the chili powder, oregano, and ½ tsp. pepper, and cook, tossing, for 30 sec-onds so the spices become fragrant. Add the potatoes and cook, tossing, until they heat through and pick up the flavors of the vegetables and spices, about 2 minutes. Taste and season with salt and pepper if needed, and serve.



f i n e c o o k i n g . c o m 87

toasted bread with chocolateSometimes, all you want is something sweet before bed. Adding a drizzle of olive oil and a pinch of salt is a sophisticated touch. Serves 8

8 1/2-inch-thick slices good bread, such as a rustic peasant bread or a real baguette

Best-quality extra-virgin olive oil for drizzling

4 oz. best-quality bittersweet chocolate, very coarsely chopped (scant 1 cup)

Sea salt, kosher salt, or any specialty salt

Position a rack 4 inches from the broiler element and heat the broiler to high. Put the bread on a baking sheet and toast until light golden on both sides, 1 to 2 minutes per side. Drizzle the bread with olive oil. Distribute the chocolate evenly on top of the bread. Turn off the broiler and return the bread to the oven until the residual heat melts the chocolate, about 1 minute. Smooth the chocolate with a table knife, if you want. Sprinkle a pinch of salt on each slice and serve.

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88 b r e a k f a s t 2 0 1 1

Instead of pork chops for breakfast, a small tenderloin topped with fruit and vegetables is a satisfying dish.Serves 2 to 3

1 medium sweet potato (about 11 oz.), unpeeled

1 medium yellow onion (about 6 oz.), peeled

1 Golden Delicious apple, unpeeled

1 small pork tenderloin (about 1 lb.)




1 1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped or grated

4 Tbs. cider vinegar

2 Tbs. coarsely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley (optional)

Cut the sweet potato, onion, and apple into 1/2-inch cubes or pieces and set each aside separately. slice the pork into 12 to 14 medallions about 3/4 to 1 inch thick (don’t worry if they’re not all even). season them with 1 tsp. salt and a little pepper and set aside. In a large straight-sided skillet, melt 1 tbs. each of the but-ter and oil over medium heat. add the sweet potato pieces in one layer and season with about 3/4 tsp. salt and a little pepper. sauté them until they’re brown and crusty on most sides, about 10 minutes. (Don’t stir often; let them sit in the

pan for 2 or 3 minutes on each side before flipping with a metal spatula.) Carefully add 3 tbs. water to the pan, and, as it sizzles, cover the pan briefly (about 1 minute) to let the potato steam. Uncover, stir, and transfer to a bowl.Turn the heat to medium high, heat another 1 tbs. each but-ter and oil in the pan, and add the onion and apple. season with 1/2 tsp. salt. sauté, stirring occasionally, until the onion is soft and both the onion and apple are nicely browned around the edges (the bottom of the pan will be brown), 6 to 8 minutes. stir in the ginger, sauté briefly, and pour 2 tbs. cider vinegar and 2 tbs. water into the pan. remove the pan from the heat and stir to scrape up the browned bits. transfer the contents of the pan to the bowl with the sweet potatoes.Put the pan back over medium-high heat and add the remaining 1 tbs. butter and 1 tbs. oil. as soon as the butter sizzles loudly, add the pork medallions in one layer. Cook for 2 minutes (they’ll be lightly browned), turn over, and cook for another 2 minutes. transfer the pork to a plate. Carefully pour in the remaining 2 tbs. cider vinegar and 2 tbs. water, remove the pan briefly from the heat, and scrape up the browned bits. return the sweet potato mixture to the pan over the heat and stir until heated through. Put several pork slices in the middle of each of 2 or 3 warm plates. fold the parsley, if using, into the sweet potato mixture and evenly mound it on top of the pork.

pork, sweet potato, and apple sauté

midnight cravings



if you’d like to make this pasta for four people, double the recipe, but transfer the pasta back into the pot used for cooking it and then toss it with the eggs and cheese.Serves 2

Kosher salt


4 oz. fatty pancetta or guanciale, sliced 1/4 inch thick and cut into 11/2x1/2-inch rectangles


1/2 cup diced red onion

2 large eggs, chilled

1/2 lb. imported dried spaghetti

1/2 cup lightly packed, freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil over high heat.In a 10-inch skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the pancetta or guanciale and 1/2 tsp. pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden and beginning to crisp, about 5 minutes. (if the meat is browning too quickly, reduce the heat to medium low.) Add the onion and continue to cook until it’s soft and golden and the meat is crisp, about another 5 minutes.Remove the pan from the heat and carefully spoon off all but about 2 Tbs. of the fat. Add 1 Tbs. water to the pan and scrape any browned bits from the bottom.In a small bowl, beat the eggs until smooth and set aside.Cook the spaghetti in the boiling water according to package directions until it’s just shy of al dente. Reserve 1/4 cup of the cooking water and drain the spaghetti. Transfer the spaghetti to the skillet, set it over medium heat, and toss with tongs to coat the spaghetti with the fat and finish cooking to al dente, about 1 minute. if the pasta is too dry or starts to stick to the bottom of the pan, add 1 or 2 tsp. of the pasta water. You want the bottom of the pan to be just barely wet. if the pan is too dry, the eggs will scramble when you add them.Remove the skillet from the heat and pour the eggs over the pasta, tossing quickly and continuously until the eggs thicken and turn to the consistency of a thin custard, 30 seconds to 1 minute. (Tossing constantly is important, as it prevents the eggs from scrambling.) The sauce should be smooth and creamy, and it should cling to the pasta. Add a little more pasta water if necessary to loosen the sauce. Stir in the Parmigiano and season to taste with salt and pepper (you may not need additional salt, as both guanciale and pancetta can be very salty). Serve immediately.

spaghetti alla carbonara

carbonara tricks

Add enough pasta water to prevent the bottom of the pan from becom-ing dry; the eggs will scramble in a dry pan.

Pour the eggs over the pasta and keep tossing until the eggs thicken into a custard-like consistency.


Serve this cake drizzled with a little heavy cream or crème fraîche. The cake will keep for a day, covered, at room temperature; if you keep it longer, the moisture from the plums will start to soften the streusel. Yields one 8-inch-square cake; serves 8 or 9

For the streusel

21/4 oz. (1/2 cup) unbleached all-purpose flour

1/4 cup packed dark brown sugar


Pinch (about 1/16 tsp.) of ground cardamom

11/2 oz. (3 tbs.) unsalted butter, melted; more as needed

For the Cake

1/4 lb. (1/2 cup) cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces; more softened for the pan

63/4 oz. (11/2 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour; more for the pan

2 large eggs


1/4 cup packed dark or light brown sugar

1/4 cup whole milk

11/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract

11/2 tsp. baking powder

1/2 tsp. table salt

1/2 tsp. ground cardamom

3 firm-ripe medium plums, each pitted and quartered

Make the streusel

Put the flour, sugar, salt, and cardamom in a small bowl and stir with a fork until thoroughly combined. Drizzle the melted butter over the mixture and stir with the fork until the mixture resembles a clumpy dough. Using your fingers, break the mixture into pistachio-size clumps and large crumbs. (If the streusel is sandy and won’t clump, add a little more melted butter, 1 tsp. at a time.) Refrigerate the streusel while you prepare the cake batter.

Make the Cake

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 375°F. Lightly butter and flour an 8x8x2-inch straight-sided cake pan. Beat the eggs lightly in a small bowl. Whisk in the granulated sugar, brown sugar, milk, and vanilla until well blended. Set aside.In a large bowl, whisk the flour, baking powder, table salt, and cardamom until well blended. Add the butter pieces and cut them into the flour with a pastry blender until the mixture resembles a very coarse meal strewn with pieces of butter the size of small peas and oat flakes. Add the egg mixture to the flour. With a wooden spoon, fold and stir until you have a thick batter speckled with visible lumps of butter, 45 seconds to 1 minute. scrape the batter into the prepared pan and spread it evenly. Break up the streusel mixture with your fingers and sprinkle half of it evenly over the batter. Arrange the plum quarters skin side down on the batter, with each piece at a 45-degree angle to the sides of the pan. Sprinkle the remaining streusel evenly over the cake.Bake for 20 minutes and then rotate the pan. Continue baking until the top of the cake is golden brown and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out with a few moist crumbs clinging to it, another 15 to 20 minutes. Let the cake cool in its pan on a rack for at least an hour before cutting. Serve warm or at room temperature.

plum coffee cake with brown sugar and cardamom streusel



Decadent enough to be dessert, this twist on french toast is popular any time of day.Serves 4

4 slices white sandwich bread (like Pepperidge Farm sandwich bread), fresh or slightly stale

11/2 to 2 oz. good-quality semisweet chocolate (preferably from a thin bar)

2 large eggs


1/2 cup half-and-half


Kosher salt


Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting

Cut each piece of bread into 4 triangles by slicing diagonally. cut or break the chocolate into 8 pieces, roughly the same tri-angle shape as the bread pieces but slightly smaller by at least 1/4 inch all the way around. In a medium bowl, vigorously whisk the eggs and sugar until well combined. Add the half-and-half, vanilla, and 1/4 tsp. salt and whisk until combined. Put

the bread pieces in the bowl and press down gently to make sure they’re all soaked.In a medium nonstick skil-let, heat 1 Tbs. of the butter over medium heat. When the butter is melted and sizzling, add half of the bread pieces in one layer, leaving a little space between each. cook until nicely browned, about 2 minutes. Turn each piece over with a spatula and cook until the other side is nicely browned, 11/2 to 2 minutes. Transfer the bread pieces to a plate lined with paper towels and take the skillet off the heat. Put a triangle of chocolate on half of the bread pieces, and top each with another piece of bread (save the best-looking pieces for the tops). Let them sit while you return the pan to the heat, melt the remaining 1 Tbs. butter, cook the remain-ing bread, and fill it with the remaining chocolate. When all the sandwiches are made, arrange 2, overlapping slightly, on each of 4 plates. Sprinkle the con fec tioners’ sugar generously over all and serve warm.

chocolate french toast sandwiches

Cover reCIPe


Deep-Fried Bacon and Eggs with Lemon and Egg Vinaigrette, p. 104

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96 b r e a k f a s t 2 0 1 1

special occasions

Puff pastry’s light and airy texture combined with dense, earthy mushroom slices makes this a standout breakfast addition.Serves 8

For the muShroom Sauté

1 tbs. olive oil

1 tbs. unsalted butter

1 lb. mixed fresh mushrooms (try 4 oz. shiitake and 6 oz. each cremini and white mushrooms), washed, trimmed, and sliced 1/4 inch thick

2 cloves garlic, minced


2 tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Chopped fresh herbs, such as thyme, sage, and chives (optional)

For the tart

1 sheet frozen puff pastry

Flour, for dusting

1 egg, beaten

13/4 oz. (1/2 cup) finely grated Fontina

Sauté the muShroomS

Heat the oil and butter in a 12-inch sauté pan or skillet over medium heat until the butter foams. add the mushrooms and garlic. the mushrooms will quickly absorb all the fat in the pan. sprinkle with 1/2 tsp. salt and stir until the mushrooms start to release their moisture and begin to shrink, 2 to 3 minutes. Increase the heat to medium high so that you hear a steady sizzle; stir occasionally. In about 5 minutes, when the liquid evaporates and the mushrooms start to brown, give just an occasional sweep with the spoon (about once a minute) to let the mushrooms brown nicely, cooking them another 2 to 4 minutes. resist the inclination to stir too often. turn off the heat and toss in the parsley and pepper to taste, adding more salt if needed. add the other herbs if using and set aside to cool.

maKe the tart

Meanwhile, thaw the puff pastry at room temperature until pliable, 30 to 45 minutes. Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 425°f. Lightly dust a work surface with flour. Unfold the pastry sheet and roll it into a rectangle that’s about 10x15 inches and about 1/16 inch thick. slide it onto a baking sheet lined with parchment. With the exception of about an inch border around the rec tangle, prick the pastry all over with a fork. With a pastry brush, brush the beaten egg over the border (you won’t need

mushroom-fontina tart

all of it). bake until the pastry begins to puff and the surface feels dry, about 5 minutes.Scatter the mushroom sauté onto the pastry, leaving an inch or so of the border un covered. bake until the crust border is puffed and deeply golden brown, about 10 minutes. scatter the cheese over the mushrooms and continue baking until the cheese melts, another 2 to 3 minutes. Let cool briefly on a rack before slicing and serving.


f i n e c o o k i n g . c o m 1 0 1

hollandaise sauceHere’s the trick to making this simple sauce: Whisk it over simmering water so the egg yolks cook gently and don’t curdle. Yields about 11/2 cups

4 large egg yolks

2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice

1 tsp. Dijon mustard (optional)

6 oz. (12 Tbs.) unsalted butter, melted

Pinch of cayenne or a few drops of hot pepper sauce

Kosher salt

Position a large heatproof bowl over a pot of barely simmering water, making sure the bottom of the bowl doesn’t touch the water. in the bowl, whisk the yolks, lemon juice, and mustard (if using) until well combined. gradually whisk in the butter in a thin stream and keep whisking until the sauce is thick enough for the whisk to leave tracks that hold for a couple of seconds, 1 to 2 minutes. if the sauce is too thick, whisk in a few drops of hot water to thin it. Whisk in the cayenne or hot sauce and season to taste with salt. keep the sauce warm in its bowl set over the simmering water, whisking occasionally, until ready to use.

start slowly When whisking in the melted butter, start with a thin stream and slowly add it, to keep the sauce creamy.

passionfruit and citrus salad with coconut meringuesYou can make this refreshing des-sert in minutes. Serve it with coconut meringues for a festive touch. Serves 4

2 kiwis, peeled and sliced

2 ripe mangoes, peeled and sliced

2 blood oranges, peeled and sliced

1 ripe star fruit, sliced

1/8 fresh pineapple, sliced

1/3 cup fresh orange juice

2 Tbs. fresh lime juice

1 tsp. sugar, preferably superfine; more to taste

4 passionfruit

Candied orange zest, for garnish (optional)

Coconut meringues (recipe at right)

In a large bowl, combine the slices of kiwi, mango, blood orange, star fruit, and pineapple. in a small bowl, stir the orange juice, lime juice, and sugar and pour this mixture over the fruit. Split the passionfruit and either spoon the pulp and seeds over the sliced fruit, or strain the pulp to remove the seeds and then pour over the fruit. garnish with candied orange zest, if using. Serve with coconut meringues.

coconut meringuesThese meringues can be made 1 day ahead of time and stored in an airtight con tainer until ready to serve. Yields about 12 pieces, depending on size

1/2 cup unsweetened coconut flakes

3 large egg whites



Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 300°f. Spread 1/4 cup of the coconut flakes on a baking sheet. Bake until golden, about 5 min-utes. Lower oven to 200°f. In a large bowl, beat the egg whites until they form soft peaks. Slowly sprinkle in the sugar while beating until the whites are stiff and glossy. fold in the vanilla and the remaining untoasted coconut. Use a pastry bag with a large tip to pipe the meringue into shapes onto an ungreased or parchment-lined baking sheet. Sprinkle with the toasted coconut and bake for 1 hour. Turn off the oven and let the meringues dry in the oven until crisp, about 2 hours. Let the meringues cool completely before removing them from the sheet.

get creative Pipe the meringue into any shape you wish, from kisses to logs.


Fresh eggs are best for poaching

technique

A properly poached egg, pp. 12, 76, and 104, will hold together and be tender, not tough. One trick to poaching them? Use fresh eggs. The thicker white of a fresh egg poaches beautifully without creat-ing all that mess in the water.

test kitchen

112 b r e A k F A s T 2 0 1 1

skinning hazelnutsTo skin the hazelnuts for the waffles on p. 39, spread the nuts in a single layer on a baking sheet and toast in a 375°F oven until the skins are mostly split and the nuts are light golden brown (the skins will look darker) and fragrant, about 10 minutes. Don’t over-toast or the nuts will become bitter. Wrap the hot nuts in a clean dishtowel and let them sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Then vigorously rub the nuts against themselves in the towel to remove most of the skins. Try to get at least half of the skins off. This may take a lot of rubbing, so be persistent.

technique

How to scrape seeds from a vanilla beanFor the vanilla beans in the Apple Brown-Butter Jalousie on p. 57, hold the bean at one end and, using a paring knife, split the bean lengthwise in half (if only half a bean is called for, cut the whole bean in half crosswise before splitting just one of the halves). Then slide the back of the knife down the opened or cut end of the bean and scrape out the seeds.

tip

technique

You’ll peel, core, and then dice the pears for the Winter Fruit Salad on p. 42. To core the pear, first peel and cut it in half. Then, use a melon baller to scoop out the seeds and fibrous core.

Coring pears

RecipecaloRies (kcal)

Fat cal (kcal)

pRotein(g)

caRb (g)

total Fat (g)

sat Fat (g)

Mo no Fat (g)

poly Fat (g)

chol (Mg)

sodiuM (Mg)

FibeR (g)

bReakFast basics, p. 10

Buttermilk Pancakes (per pancake) 110 30 3 16 3.5 1.5 1 0 30 170 0

bReakFast dRinks, p. 16

Masala Chai 50 15 1 8 1.5 1 0 0 5 20 0

Sparkling Pomegranate Cocktail (based on 6 servings) 130 0 0 12 0 0 0 0 0 5 0

Classic Strawberry-Banana Smoothie 110 5 2 25 0.5 0 0 0 0 20 3

Orange Slush (per cup) 180 25 4 35 2.5 1.5 1 0 10 40 0

Homemade Apple Cider 120 0 0 30 0 0 0 0 0 25 0

Real Hot Chocolate 420 270 8 36 30 18 9 1 60 105 3

Spicy Southwestern Bloody Mary (w/ 1 oz. vodka) 130 0 2 12 0 0 0 0 0 1160 2

Champagne Cocktail 60 0 0 8 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

Strawberry Orange Vanilla Smoothie 270 30 7 54 3.5 0 0.5 2 0 10 2

bRead basket, p. 24

Cranberry-Orange Muffins (per muffin) 270 90 5 39 11 6 3 0.5 60 250 1

Chocolate-Nut Zucchini Bread 430 180 8 56 21 10 4.5 4.5 85 310 2

Authentic Brioche (per 3-inch brioche) 270 120 6 29 14 8 4 1 115 380 1

Sour Cherry and Walnut Scones 370 150 5 49 17 8 3.5 4 30 200 2

Parsnip and Pecan Sour Cream Muffins (per muffin) 320 147 5 41 16 8 6 2 65 370 2

Fastest-Ever Cinnamon Buns (per bun) 300 120 5 40 13 4.5 6 2.5 15 290 2

Classic Water Bagels (per mini bagel) 100 10 3 18 1 0 0 0.5 0 390 1

Chocolate Chip Muffins 680 270 8 97 30 16 10 2.5 95 320 3

Herbed Buttermilk Biscuits (per 2-inch biscuit) 130 50 3 17 5 2 2 1 5 300 1

FoR a cRowd, p. 36

Hazelnut Waffles 290 140 8 30 16 2 8 4.5 75 380 1

Berry Compote (per 1/4 cup) 90 0 0 23 0 0 0 0 0 0 1

Crème Fraîche Whipped Cream (per 1 Tbs.) 20 20 0 1 2 1.5 0.5 0 5 0 0

Cabbage, Leek, and Bacon Tart 660 490 15 29 54 29 19 4 220 860 2

Streusel-Topped Ginger-Apple Coffee Cake 360 122 6 55 13 7 4 2 805 290 1

Winter Fruit Salad 140 0 1 32 0 0 0 0 0 0 4

Smoked Salmon, Goat Cheese, and Artichoke Quiche 590 400 16 33 44 27 12 2.5 230 740 3

Asparagus, Ham, and Mushroom Strata 500 240 32 34 27 15 8 1.5 315 1140 2

Apple, Sage, and Fennel Breakfast Sausage 310 200 21 6 22 7 10 4 75 350 1

Open-Faced Smoked Salmon and Avocado Sandwiches 440 190 20 44 21 3.5 14 3 15 1630 7

Leek and Morel Strata 320 130 18 29 14 6 4.5 1.5 335 630 2

Fresh Fig Tart with Orange Custard 310 160 4 38 18 11 5 1 75 200 4

on the go, p. 48

Smoky Black Bean and Cheddar Burritos with Spinach 510 190 19 63 21 6 10 4 15 1020 9

French-Style Grilled Ham and Gruyère 390 210 22 21 24 12 8 2 95 940 1

Brandied Apricot-Almond Slab Pie 650 280 9 81 32 15 10 3.5 80 65 5

Oven-Toasted Ham, Brie, and Apple Sandwiches 580 180 25 72 20 12 6 0.5 70 1300 3

Watermelon, Tomato, and Feta Salad 190 150 5 8 16 6 9 1.5 25 470 1

Chinese Pork and Mushroom Wraps 330 120 14 36 14 2.5 7 3 70 730 4

Artichoke, Leek, and Taleggio Frittata 190 130 8 6 15 4 8 1.5 165 280 2

Apple Brown-Butter Jalousie 250 120 3 30 13 5 6 1 25 190 1

Ham and Cheese Croissants 380 210 10 33 23 14 6 1 80 600 1

Cherry Breakfast Focaccia 300 10 7 66 1 0 0 0.5 0 490 3

Trail Mix Bars 460 260 8 45 30 11 13 4 50 170 3

Individual Cinnamon Coffee Cakes w/ Swirl (per coffee cake) 660 270 12 89 30 13 11 3 120 330 6

nutrition

118 B R E A k F A S T A N y T I M E 2 0 1 1

FCSIP48_Nutrition_v1.indd 118 12/22/10 4:26 PM

f i n e c o o k i n g . c o m 119

Recipe caloRies (kcal)

Fat cal (kcal)

pRotein(g)

caRb (g)

total Fat (g)

sat Fat (g)

Mo no Fat (g)

poly Fat (g)

chol (Mg)

sodiuM (Mg)

FibeR (g)

Quick staRt, p. 62

Honey-Almond granola (per 1/2 cup) 290 150 8 30 17 1.5 9 6 0 90 4

crispy Sweet Pecan granola 230 110 4 29 12 1 7 3.5 0 65 4

Prosciutto, fontina, and Sun-Dried Tomato Quesadillas 150 60 8 13 7 3.5 2.5 0.5 25 490 1

melons with ginger Syrup 110 5 2 27 0.5 0 0 0 0 20 2

Baked eggs with chives and cream 230 170 13 1 19 9 6 1.5 455 290 0

candied Bacon (per slice) 70 25 2 9 2.5 1 1 0 5 150 0

Rich chocolate muffins 630 340 9 73 38 22 10 2 190 45 3

Broiled grapefruit with Honey, Vanilla, and cardamom 90 0 1 22 0 0 0 0 0 0 2

cheese omelet 310 220 21 1 24 12 8 2 470 370 0

open-faced Blueberry and crème fraîche Brioche Sandwiches 470 290 6 40 32 20 6 0.5 120 220 1

creamy coconut oatmeal with Dried Peaches 550 320 11 54 36 22 7 4 0 90 9

bReakFast FoR dinneR, p.72

Parsnip Pancakes with caramelized onions and Sour cream 320 170 5 34 19 6 11 1 70 620 6

Spanish Potato Tortilla 170 90 5 15 10 2 7 1 105 400 2

Pork and Potato Hash with Poached eggs and Avocado 510 230 27 43 26 6 15 3 265 910 8

creamy fontina Polenta with mushroom Ragù 240 120 9 21 14 6 6 1.5 30 550 2

egg foo Yung with chicken and Shiitake 350 230 22 8 26 4 14 7 350 910 1

Pork chops with maple-ginger Pan Sauce (using 2-oz. chops) 510 270 27 23 30 10 16 2 90 650 1

Tomato and mozzarella omelet 450 320 24 8 36 12 18 3 455 970 2

Braised Sausages with Balsamic-glazed onions and grapes 530 380 23 15 42 13 22 5 65 1550 1

Steak and eggs Rancheros 460 270 27 22 30 9 15 4 255 910 6

Pan-fried Southwestern Hash 200 110 3 19 13 1 8 3.5 0 420 3

bReakFast at Midnight, p. 84

Sweet Potato and chile Hash with a fried egg 430 300 9 28 33 6 16 10 225 970 4

chocolate french Toast Sandwiches 270 140 7 27 16 9 4 1 135 290 2

Toasted Bread with chocolate (1.5 oz. bread w/ 1 tsp. oil) 220 100 5 28 11 3.5 3.5 0 0 390 2

Pork, Sweet Potato, and Apple Sauté 610 320 35 38 36 13 18 2 125 430 5

Spaghetti alla carbonara 810 310 34 89 34 10 15 4.5 255 1530 6

Rosemary Steak and Potatoes 880 430 75 32 48 24 17 2 255 740 3

Tuscan Poached eggs 360 160 14 37 18 4 10 2 215 740 5

Plum coffee cake with Brown Sugar and cardamom Streusel 350 140 5 48 16 10 4.5 1 85 240 1

Smoky Refried Bean Tostadas 640 320 20 62 36 8 17 9 35 1400 14

mini Pizzas with Arugula, Peppers, and Prosciutto 140 45 6 16 5 1.5 2 0.5 10 360 2

chocolate french Toast Sandwiches 270 140 7 27 16 9 4 1 135 290 2

WoRth the eFFoRt, p. 94

mushroom-fontina Tart 110 80 4 5 9 4 4 1 45 230 0

chocolate-filled Beignets 140 90 2 12 10 4 4 1 30 70 0

Spinach crêpes with goat cheese and Herbs (per crêpe) 100 40 4 10 4.5 2.5 1 0.5 45 150 1

Shrimp and Asparagus with cheddar grits 510 220 44 29 25 14 7 2 355 920 1

Deep-fried Bacon and eggs with Lemon and egg Vinaigrette 680 520 20 19 58 11 37 7 460 880 2

Walnut and Rum-Raisin crêpes (per crêpe, 2Tbs. sauce) 240 120 4 26 14 6 4 3 45 130 1

eggs Benedict 650 410 30 29 47 24 15 4 665 1450 2

Hollandaise Sauce (per 1/4 cup) 240 230 2 1 26 16 7 1.5 200 170 0

Passionfruit and citrus Salad with coconut meringues 190 8 3 49 1 0 0.5 0.5 0 10 8

corn Soufflé Puddings 260 180 7 17 20 11 6 1 160 390 2

classic Tarte Tatin 510 250 4 63 28 17 7 1.5 105 310 2

Make it Fast, p. 122

maple Butter (per 1 Tbs.) 90 50 0 10 6 4 2 0 15 15 0

RecipecaloRies (kcal)

Fat cal (kcal)

pRotein(g)

caRb (g)

total Fat (g)

sat Fat (g)

Mo no Fat (g)

poly Fat (g)

chol (Mg)

sodiuM (Mg)

FibeR (g)

bReakFast basics, p. 10

Buttermilk Pancakes (per pancake) 110 30 3 16 3.5 1.5 1 0 30 170 0

bReakFast dRinks, p. 16

masala chai 50 15 1 8 1.5 1 0 0 5 20 0

Sparkling Pomegranate cocktail (based on 6 servings) 130 0 0 12 0 0 0 0 0 5 0

classic Strawberry-Banana Smoothie 110 5 2 25 0.5 0 0 0 0 20 3

orange Slush (per cup) 180 25 4 35 2.5 1.5 1 0 10 40 0

Homemade Apple cider 120 0 0 30 0 0 0 0 0 25 0

Real Hot chocolate 420 270 8 36 30 18 9 1 60 105 3

Spicy Southwestern Bloody mary (w/ 1 oz. vodka) 130 0 2 12 0 0 0 0 0 1160 2

champagne cocktail 60 0 0 8 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

Strawberry orange Vanilla Smoothie 270 30 7 54 3.5 0 0.5 2 0 10 2

bRead basket, p. 24

cranberry-orange muffins (per muffin) 270 90 5 39 11 6 3 0.5 60 250 1

chocolate-nut Zucchini Bread 430 180 8 56 21 10 4.5 4.5 85 310 2

Authentic Brioche (per 3-inch brioche) 270 120 6 29 14 8 4 1 115 380 1

Sour cherry and Walnut Scones 370 150 5 49 17 8 3.5 4 30 200 2

Parsnip and Pecan Sour cream muffins (per muffin) 320 147 5 41 16 8 6 2 65 370 2

fastest-ever cinnamon Buns (per bun) 300 120 5 40 13 4.5 6 2.5 15 290 2

classic Water Bagels (per mini bagel) 100 10 3 18 1 0 0 0.5 0 390 1

chocolate chip muffins 680 270 8 97 30 16 10 2.5 95 320 3

Herbed Buttermilk Biscuits (per 2-inch biscuit) 130 50 3 17 5 2 2 1 5 300 1

FoR a cRoWd, p. 36

Hazelnut Waffles 290 140 8 30 16 2 8 4.5 75 380 1

Berry compote (per 1/4 cup) 90 0 0 23 0 0 0 0 0 0 1

crème fraîche Whipped cream (per 1 Tbs.) 20 20 0 1 2 1.5 0.5 0 5 0 0

cabbage, Leek, and Bacon Tart 660 490 15 29 54 29 19 4 220 860 2

Streusel-Topped ginger-Apple coffee cake 360 122 6 55 13 7 4 2 805 290 1

Winter fruit Salad 140 0 1 32 0 0 0 0 0 0 4

Smoked Salmon, goat cheese, and Artichoke Quiche 590 400 16 33 44 27 12 2.5 230 740 3

Asparagus, Ham, and mushroom Strata 500 240 32 34 27 15 8 1.5 315 1140 2

Apple, Sage, and fennel Breakfast Sausage 310 200 21 6 22 7 10 4 75 350 1

open-faced Smoked Salmon and Avocado Sandwiches 440 190 20 44 21 3.5 14 3 15 1630 7

Leek and morel Strata 320 130 18 29 14 6 4.5 1.5 335 630 2

fresh fig Tart with orange custard 310 160 4 38 18 11 5 1 75 200 4

on the go, p. 48

Smoky Black Bean and cheddar Burritos with Spinach 510 190 19 63 21 6 10 4 15 1020 9

french-Style grilled Ham and gruyère 390 210 22 21 24 12 8 2 95 940 1

Brandied Apricot-Almond Slab Pie 650 280 9 81 32 15 10 3.5 80 65 5

oven-Toasted Ham, Brie, and Apple Sandwiches 580 180 25 72 20 12 6 0.5 70 1300 3

Watermelon, Tomato, and feta Salad 190 150 5 8 16 6 9 1.5 25 470 1

chinese Pork and mushroom Wraps 330 120 14 36 14 2.5 7 3 70 730 4

Artichoke, Leek, and Taleggio frittata 190 130 8 6 15 4 8 1.5 165 280 2

Apple Brown-Butter Jalousie 250 120 3 30 13 5 6 1 25 190 1

Ham and cheese croissants 380 210 10 33 23 14 6 1 80 600 1

cherry Breakfast focaccia 300 10 7 66 1 0 0 0.5 0 490 3

Trail mix Bars 460 260 8 45 30 11 13 4 50 170 3

individual cinnamon coffee cakes w/ Swirl (per coffee cake) 660 270 12 89 30 13 11 3 120 330 6

nutrition

The nutritional analyses have been calculated by a registered dietitian at nutritional Solutions in melville, new York. When a recipe gives a choice of ingredients, the first choice is the one used. optional ingre-dients with measured amounts are included; ingredients with out specific quantities are not. Analyses are per serving; when a range of ingredient amounts or servings is given, the smaller amount or portion is used. When the quantities of salt and pepper aren’t specified, the analysis is based on 1/4 tsp. salt and 1/8 tsp. pepper per serving for entrées, and 1/8 tsp. salt and 1/16 tsp. pepper per serving for side dishes.

FCSIP48_Nutrition_v1.indd 119 12/22/10 4:26 PM

120 B r e a k f a s t 2 0 1 1

BeveragesChampagne Cocktail �� 23

Classic strawberry-Banana smoothie ��20

Homemade apple Cider ��21

Masala Chai �� 18

Orange slush ��20

real Hot Chocolate ��21

sparkling Pomegranate Cocktail �� 18

spicy southwestern Bloody Mary �� 22

sugar syrup �� 18

tangy strawberry-Orange smoothie �� 23

Beef, Chicken, Pork & Lambapple, sage, and fennel Breakfast sausage ��45

Braised sausages with Balsamic-Glazed Onions and Grapes �� 80

Candied Bacon ��66

egg foo Yung with Chicken and shiitake��78

Pork and Potato Hash with Poached eggs and avocado ��76

Pork Chops with Maple-Ginger Pan sauce ��79

Pork, sweet Potato, and apple sauté ��88

rosemary steak and Potatoes �� 90

steak and eggs rancheros ��82

Breads & Muffins authentic Brioche ��28

Cherry Breakfast focaccia�� 60

Chocolate Chip Muffins ��34

Chocolate-Nut Zucchini Bread �� 27

Classic Water Bagels �� 32

Cranberry-Orange Muffins ��26

Ham and Cheese Croissants ��58

Herbed Buttermilk Biscuits �� 35

Parsnip and Pecan sour Cream Muffins ��30

rich Chocolate Muffins �� 67

sour Cherry and Walnut scones ��30

Eggs & Pastaartichoke, Leek, and taleggio frittata ��56

asparagus, Ham, and Mushroom strata ��45

Baked eggs with Chives and Cream ��66

Cheese Omelet ��68

Deep-fried Bacon and eggs with Lemon and egg Vinaigrette �� 104

RECIPE INDEX

p. 34

eggs Benedict �� 100

Leek and Morel strata �� 46

spaghetti alla Carbonara ��89

spanish Potato tortilla �� 75

steak and eggs rancheros ��82

tomato and Mozzarella Omelet �� 80

tuscan Poached eggs �� 90

Fish & ShellfishOpen-faced smoked salmon and avocado sandwiches ��45

shrimp and asparagus with Cheddar Grits ��102

Oatmeal, Granola & GrainsCreamy Coconut Oatmeal with Dried Peaches and Candied Coconut Pecans ��71

Creamy fontina Polenta with Mushroom ragù ��76

Crispy sweet Pecan Granola ��64

Honey-almond Granola ��64

p. 23

p. 67

fcSIP48_RecipeIndex_v3_TF.indd 120 12/22/10 4:27 PM

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