Fine Wines Jan 2018 · 2018-01-10 · E-RH19661 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Chante Le Merle, Le Bosquet des Papes 2006 £30 £360 This is a rich, full and intensely dark Châteauneuf which

thewinesociety.com/fi newines

2 To order thewinesociety.com/finewines 01438 741177

How to use this Listl Wines are listed by theme and then by pricel Drink dates are given as a guide to maturity and ageing

potentiall For further information about any of the wines please contact

Member Services on 01438 741177 l Fine wines too limited in quantity to be listed may be

found in the fine wine section of The Society’s website at thewinesociety.com/finewine

Fine Wine Advisers – here to helpPlease contact the Fine Wine Advisers for help with wine selection, food matching and any other wine-related subject. Visit thewinesociety.com/advice or call 01438 741177 to find out more.

SIXES AND SEVENS: THE 2006 & 2007 VINTAGES RETASTED & REVISTED 3

We roll out the red carpet for two mature, and maturing, vintages’ worth of spoils from Bordeaux, the Rhône, the Languedoc, Italy, Argentina, South Africa and Australia. Enjoy!

TASMANIA: THE DEVIL’S IN THE DETAIL 4

We are proud to have been sharing the electrifying wines of Tasmania for many years; with the wines looking smarter than ever, Sarah Knowles MW unveils some stunning sparkling, chardonnay and pinot noir.

A VINTAGE CHAMPAGNE MASTERCLASS: CASTELNAU 5

Sarah Knowles MW introduces us to a trio of vintages from a superb house, wrapped up and ready for you to enjoy.

SMALL WONDERS: FINE WINE AT £20 AND UNDER 6

What better way to greet 2018 than with some of the best-value fine wines available anywhere, from delicious dignitaries to rewarding oddities?

HIGH-GRADE HUNGARY 8

Let Sebastian Payne MW banish any bad memories and open your arms and palate to an adventurous and arresting showcase of exciting Hungarian finds; from a Meursault-rivalling ‘sheep’s tail’ to an 11.5% red. Intrigued? Read on!

A NEW ZEALAND GIANT: TE MATA ESTATE 9

From grown-up sauvignon blanc to dream-vintage Bordeaux blends, this exquisite collection from Hawke’s Bay’s historic Te Mata lives up to the estate’s stellar reputation.

‘HAUT’ COUTURE: BORDEAUX VALUE FROM 2009 & 2010 10

Two of the greatest Bordeaux vintages in living memory, four of the top properties in a region that still delivers pocket-friendly panache. Tim Sykes reveals and revels in the spoils.

A RIOJA STYLE GUIDE 11

Dynamism and distinction combine in a fascinating (not to mention delicious) collection of Riojas that show the remarkable stylistic nuance that can now be found – what’s not varied, however, is the quality.

WHITE BURGUNDY THAT WON’T BREAK THE BANK 13

Toby Morrhall strays from Burgundy’s main roads to bring you a collection of under-the-radar 2015s that deliver attractive drinking at attractive prices: this is a no-brainer for lovers of fine chardonnay.

THE SAINTS OF SAINT-CHINIAN 14

Marcel Orford-Williams shines deserving spotlights on Château La Dournie and Mas Champart – two stars of this oft-overlooked area of the Languedoc making different styles of wine united by stunning quality.

2015 SOUTH AFRICA: THE DECADE’S DREAM VINTAGE 15

A consistent vintage is rare in the vast, varied landscape of South Africa but, remarkably, 2015 offers uniform delight across a dizzying range of styles. Joanna Locke MW presents a selection for Cape aficionados and uninitiated alike.

Whether your wine rack’s in need of a January top-up or a New Year revolution, our first Fine Wine List of 2018 will have a stylish solution.

Here we bring you some of the mouthwatering fruits of our buyers’ labours; from a trusty tranche of Small Wonders at £20 or under and good-value drinking from Bordeaux (red) and Burgundy (white) to an exciting set of wines from New Zealand grandee Te Mata, via Vintage Champagne.

A fittingly fabulous cross-section of South Africa’s extraordinary 2015 vintage rubs shoulders with a worldwide round-up of ready-to-drink 2006s and 2007s, while stylistic diversity in Rioja and the Languedoc’s undervalued gem Saint-Chinian are explored with relish, as are the exciting wines of Tasmania and Hungary. Happy reading, happy choosing and very happy drinking.

Key

- bone dry to intensely sweet screwcap synthetic closure

3For advice thewinesociety.com/advice or 01438 741177

SIXES AND SEVENSTHE 2006 & 2007 VINTAGES RETASTED & REVISTEDDrinking a fine wine that has arrived at its plateau of perfection after years of ageing is a unique pleasure. We’ve delved into both our and our growers’ archives to assemble a showcase of two vintages that, across a number of regions around the world, offer just such an experience: 2006 and 2007.

Whether your preference is for Rhône (north or south), top Aussie shiraz or Bordeaux grapes (in their heartland or further-flung climes), you’re sure to find something special here.

bottle dozen

E-AR3171 Weinert Cavas de Weinert 2006 £16 £192 The distinct, intriguing wines of Weinert are one of a kind. Cavas is a bewitching Argentine

blend of 40% malbec, 40% cabernet sauvignon and 20% merlot, made in a lovely traditional style, aged in large oak vats for three to four years until soft and mellow. Drink this year and next. The 2007 follows. Also available in magnum at £34. 15%

E-CM19721 Château Tronquoy-Lalande, Saint-Estèphe 2007 £24 £288 An absolutely delightful Bordeaux from the commune of Saint-Estèphe. With supremely

satisfying silkiness and food-friendly panache, this well-judged blend (mostly merlot and cabernet sauvignon, with splashes of cabernet franc and petit verdot) offers a sensuous treat for claret lovers. Now to 2020. Low stock.13%

E-IT22411 Ghemme, Torraccia del Piantavigna 2007 £25 £300 A haunting Italian nebbiolo from a vintage that proprietor Alessandro Francoli thinks might be

the greatest in this splendid property’s history. This complex, fresh and vibrant wine offers ripe, scented, red-fruit aromas, subtly spiked with a note of the spice-jar and a seductive and elegant palate. Now to 2020. 14%

E-AU13481 d’Arenberg ‘The Dead Arm’ McLaren Vale Shiraz 2007 £27 £324 A standard-bearing shiraz from Australia’s McLaren Vale. This tiny-yielding vintage of The Dead

Arm is a triumph, with a chunky dense palate of wonderful concentration and depth. Now to 2022. 14.5%

E-RH19661 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Chante Le Merle, Le Bosquet des Papes 2006 £30 £360 This is a rich, full and intensely dark Châteauneuf which has integrated wonderfully over time,

showing powerful dark fruit with a liquorice-like quality to the flavour. A big wine, relatively high in alcohol but impeccably balanced, this would come into its own with a hearty beef stew on a cold winter’s night. Now to 2024. 15%

E-FC33711 Coteaux du Languedoc, Saut de Côte, Domaine Chabanon 2007 £31 £372 A remarkable, full-bodied southern French blend of mourvèdre and syrah. Aged in concrete

tank for 36 months and bottled in 2010, without fining or filtration, to produce a deeply spicy and Rhône-like red. It is delicious now but has the fullness to age for some time yet, and would be perfect with game or beef. Now to 2030. 13%

E-SA5891 Warwick Estate Trilogy, Stellenbosch 2007 £34 £408 Warwick’s educated guess that their flagship cabernet-led Bordeaux-style blend would embrace

ten years bottle age with ease has proved spot on here. Still showing the lovely sweet, brambly, spicy fruit of this warm Stellenbosch vintage, it is lent greater complexity by fine, grainy tannins and remarkable density and length on the palate. Now to 2022. This wine is not available until the end of January, but members can order now. 14.5%

E-RH20121 Hermitage Cuvée Emilie, Domaine des Remizières 2006 £39 £468 Philippe Desmeure and his daughter Emilie made a concentrated, rich and full-flavoured

Hermitage in 2006. Still full of sweet-tasting, ripe fruit, but with a mellowness that has come with age, this is a delicious dark-fruited style of this renowned northern Rhône region. Now to 2024. 14%

E-AU15821 Yalumba The Octavius Barossa Shiraz 2006 £55 £660 Yalumba’s The Octavius has established a reputation as one of Australia’s very finest examples

of shiraz, and the 2006 is singing very sweetly. It offers an intense and seductive fruitcake aroma, a rich and velvety palate with a delicious combination of black-cherry, vanilla, prune and spice. Extraordinary density and vigour here. Now to 2020. 14.5%

Drinking a fine wine that has arrived at its plateau of perfection after years of

4 To order thewinesociety.com/fi newines 01438 741177

SPARKLING bottle dozen

E-SG2171 Pirie Tasmanian Traditional Method NV £27.50 £330 Tasmania is making some truly excellent sparkling wines of great elegance and character. This

award-winning Champagne-method blend of 55% chardonnay and 45% pinot noir is lavished with over three years’ ageing on its yeast lees to give it a rich toasty note, complementing its citrusy freshness beautifully. 12%

WHITES bottle dozen

E-AU20141 The Society’s Exhibition Tasmanian Chardonnay 2016 £16 £192 An exhibition of Tasmanian elegance made exclusively for us by Claudio Radenti of Freycinet. Its

juicy lemon and citrus flavours are refreshing and well balanced, while the palate is nicely textured with chalky mineral notes developing on the finish. A serious and utterly captivating chardonnay, well priced for its quality. Now to 2022. 13.5%

E-AU20681 Tamar Ridge Tasmanian Riesling 2016 £17 £204 This is a stunning dry riesling with tremendous precision. The lime aroma is complemented by

the grape’s unique hint of kerosene, which develops on the mouthwatering palate. Enjoy it with oysters or smoked salmon, or deploy as a delicious aperitif. Now to 2026. 12.5%

E-AU20151 Wineglass Bay Tasmanian Chardonnay 2015 £21 £252 Claudio Radenti makes world-renowned chardonnays from his well-placed old vines. With a

touch of fine French oak on the lemon-and-apple scented nose, this is an exceptional example: full-flavoured but fresh and a great ambassador for modern-style Australian chardonnay. Now to 2022. 13.5%

Tolpuddle Tasmanian Chardonnay 2015 Only produced in tiny quantities, Tolpuddle Shaw and Smith’s Tasmanian venture is a world-

class example of premium cool-climate chardonnay. It offers a touch of flint on the nose, plenty of lemon, green-apple and toasted-almond notes, bright acidity and a mineral edge to the long finish. Now to 2023. 12.5% Available only in The Case for Tasmania below.

TASMANIA THE DEVIL’S IN THE DETAILI visited Tasmania for the first time last year. I’ve always loved the wines, but I was completely bowled over seeing in situ the beauty of the landscape, the passion of the winemakers and the extraordinary potential that exists here. Tasmanian wine may be in vogue now, but I’m proud to say that we have been working with Freycinet’s Claudio Radenti for 20 years, since my colleague Sebastian Payne MW first explored this magical place. In fact, against an Aussie backdrop of buttery ripe chardonnays, we championed Claudio’s elegant, taut and mineral wine as our only Exhibition-label Australian chardonnay back in 2001. This selection shows off the gems of the present, including a trio of wines from Claudio, and also some newer wines deservedly taking the fine-wine world by storm. I hope you enjoy seeing what all the fuss is about! Sarah Knowles MW

THE CASE FOR TASMANIA £129Drink or store to 2021

A six-bottle case containing one bottle of each of the following wines:

WHITEThe Society’s Exhibition Tasmanian Chardonnay 2016Wineglass Bay Tasmanian Chardonnay 2015Tolpuddle Tasmanian Chardonnay 2015REDDevil’s Corner Tasmanian Pinot Noir 2016Freycinet Louis Tasmanian Pinot Noir 2015Tamar Ridge Tasmanian Pinot Noir 2014

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A VINTAGE CHAMPAGNE MASTERCLASS: CASTELNAUI leapt at the chance to secure these superb wines from Champagne Castelnau, an insider’s tip with a reputation for excellence. Vintage Champagne is a special treat, crafted to show off the very best characteristics of an especially good year. Blanc de blancs Champagnes, made entirely from the chardonnay grape, translate the differences and nuances of a year with particular precision, so the chance to compare a trio of such wines from a great grower should not be missed. Established in the heart of Reims in 1916, this house ages its wines on the lees (the yeasts that occur naturally in fermentation) for extended periods to create complex, powerful but precise wines that are beautiful upon release but ageworthy too. This collection features their most recent release, 2007, alongside the captivating and contrasting 2003 and 2004 vintages. It all adds up to a mouthwatering tasting for you to enjoy in the comfort of your own home! Sarah Knowles MW

bottle dozen

E-CH3661 Champagne Castelnau Blanc de Blancs 2003 £42 £504 The 2003 vintage was very warm and the resultant wine is the richest of this trio, offering a

concentrated collection of baked-apple, pineapple and ripe-lemon flavours, now complemented by the savoury spice notes that come with ageing. Creamy in texture but still full of energy, and with a glorious persistent toasty finish. Now to 2020. 12.5%

E-CH3651 Champagne Castelnau Blanc de Blancs 2004 £42 £504 From one of the best Champagne vintages of the decade, this has an opulent and classic blanc

de blancs perfume, mingling green apple, citrus fruit and a touch of fresh brioche. Bright and light yet creamy on the palate, this is a beautifully balanced wine of both power and finesse. Wonderful now, but it will age further if you can resist it! Now to 2022. 12.5%

E-CH3641 Champagne Castelnau Blanc de Blancs 2007 £42 £504 Castelnau’s most recent release is from a vintage where chardonnay really shone. As such, this is

still youthful despite its ten years of age, with a perfume of preserved lemons, green apple and flint. Pear and peach, conveyed with wonderfully persistent bubbles on the palate, lead to a long finish that gives a hint at the toasty qualities that will come with time. Superb. Now to 2032. 12.5%

CHAMPAGNE CASTELNAU TASTING CASE £125Drink or store to 2020

A three-bottle case containing one bottle of each of the above wines.

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bottle dozen

REDS bottle dozen

E-AU19791 Devil’s Corner Tasmanian Pinot Noir 2016 £14.95 £179 Home to some of Australia’s coolest vineyard sites, Tasmania provides conditions where pinot

noir can thrive. This is a superb introduction to the wonders being worked here, courtesy of the excellent Tamar Ridge winery. With tart red-berry and cranberry flavours, fine tannins, spice and a refreshing finish, this is an utterly charming wine. Now to 2021. 13%

E-AU20671 Tamar Ridge Tasmanian Pinot Noir 2014 £20 £240 This estate bottling, also from Tamar Ridge, leaps out of the glass with its wonderful perfume,

mingling redcurrants, cranberries and white-pepper spice. On the palate, the delicate sophisticated red-berry flavours are poised beautifully by fine tannins and bright acidity, before a touch of vanilla on the finish. A seriously delicious glassful. Now to 2024. 13%

E-AU20131 Freycinet Louis Tasmanian Pinot Noir 2015 £21 £252 This poised and precise pinot noir is a classic example of what Tasmania’s cool coastal vineyards

can produce. With a complex perfume and notes of redcurrant, pepper and cherry on the palate, followed by a lovely bright finish, this comes highly recommended. Now to 2022. 14%

E-AU20051 Tolpuddle Tasmanian Pinot Noir 2015 £49 £588 A fine Tasmanian pinot of charm, complexity and class. There is a definite herbal edge to the

wine’s delightful red-fruit perfume, while the palate has both concentration and precision, offering a glorious advertisement for Tasmania’s fine pinot credentials. Now to 2022. 13.5%

6 To order thewinesociety.com/finewines 01438 741177

WHITES bottle dozen

E-IT24311 Langhe Nascetta, Cantina del Nebbiolo 2016 £11.50 £138 The rare nascetta grape, local to Piedmont, is deservedly coming back into fashion. With its

lovely fresh herbal flavour, this gorgeous example shows why. The wine is partially aged and fermented in barrel, 50% of which is made from acacia wood, which gives a honeyed feel to the bouquet. Drink this year and next. 13%

E-IT24161 Lugana Il Gruccione, Nunzio Ghiraldi 2016 £12.50 £150 A charming fruity Italian white from a small estate on the southern shore of Lake Garda, which

achieves this excellent result from low yields of the local trebbiano di Lugana grape. Drink this year. 13.5%

E-AU17961 Peter Lehmann Margaret Barossa Semillon 2010 £13.50 £162 Harvested early and made without any oak, Peter Lehmann’s ‘Margaret’ bottling is a beautiful

example of Aussie semillon. Lovely, lemony, light in alcohol but rich in body, this is now showing some of the complex candle-wax notes that come with a little maturity. Now to 2020. 11%

E-LO13461 Reuilly ‘Les Fossiles’, Domaine Denis Jamain 2016 £13.95 £167 This fine Loire sauvignon is grown on ancient soils with a high proportion of marine fossils

(hence the name), which imbue the wine with a sophisticated minerality. The low-yielding 2016 vintage has given an extra intensity, dialling up its delightful fragrant white-flower and citrus notes. Now to 2020. 12.5%

E-SP13091 Reto Blanco Albilla, Manchuela 2016 £13.95 £167 A wonderfully intriguing dry Spanish white from the lesser-known albilla grape. Grown just east

of Madrid, but at high altitude to ensure freshness, this unoaked gem has real precision, refreshing lime-like fruit and a tangy, saline finish. Drink this year and next. 12.5%

E-AA2131 Wieninger Wiener Riesling 2016 £13.95 £167 A dry, striking, fresh and zesty riesling from Vienna whose sophistication belies its humble price

tag. With a long finish that evolves beautifully on the palate after you’ve taken a sip, this is a very smart new Austrian find. Now to 2020. 12.5%

E-IT23151 Vermentino Solosole, Poggio al Tesoro 2016 £14.95 £179 The 70 hectare property is on Italy’s Tyrrhenian coast in the best bit of north Bolgheri next to

Ornellaia. The south west facing Le Sondraie vineyard is proving ideal for the vermentino grape. An aromatic, full-flavoured wine with delightful personality and depth. It would be an ideal foil for spicy Thai dishes or a vegetable stir fry. Now to 2020. 14%

E-NZ9941 Greywacke Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2017 £16 £192 Kevin Judd, ex-Cloudy Bay winemaker, always pushes this sauvignon to the max, and this fresh

new 2017 is one of the finest we’ve tasted. Despite the softer style of the vintage, this is opulently perfumed with passionfruit and gooseberry, making for a mouth-coating but multi-faceted sauvignon with a wonderful long finish. Now to 2021. 13%

SMALL WONDERS FINE WINE AT £20 AND UNDERSome worship iconic labels and renowned appellations, but here at your Society we prize pure drinking pleasure above all else, wherever it may be found. Perhaps there is no truer reflection of this than Small Wonders, our popular round-up of bottles that deliver fine-wine quality at pocket-pleasing prices. Whether an overlooked gem from a fêted region (look to the reds section for two remarkable-value clarets, for instance) or a rewarding foray on the path less travelled (such as Italy’s nascetta grape, Spain’s albilla or Greece’s xinomavro), every wine here has earned its place for what’s inside the bottle. Dive in and enjoy…

SMALL WONDERS WHITES CASE £82Drink or store to next year


Langhe Nascetta, Cantina del Nebbiolo 2016Reto Blanco Albilla, Manchuela 2016Peter Lehmann Margaret Barossa Semillon 2010

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Greywacke Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2017Reuilly ‘Les Fossiles’, Domaine Denis Jamain 2016Wieninger Wiener Riesling 2016


SMALL WONDERS REDS CASE £95Drink or store to 2020


Château Thivin, Côte de Brouilly Les Sept Vignes 2015Coteaux du Languedoc Campredon, Alain Chabanon 2015Casa Romana, Principe Pallavicini 2012Château Villars, Fronsac 2007Qupé ‘A Modern Red’ Santa Barbara Syrah-Grenache-Mourvèdre 2014Earth and Sky Naoussa Thymiopoulos 2015

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REDS bottle dozen

E-CB3681 Château Le Conseiller, Bordeaux Supérieur 2010 £13.95 £167 A splendid Bordeaux bargain from one of the great vintages and now fully mature. This ripe and

textured merlot-dominant wine approaches the lofty heights of Pomerol for class and concentration. Don’t miss it! Drink this year. 14.5%

E-FC33691 Coteaux du Languedoc Campredon, Alain Chabanon 2015 £14.50 £174 Alain Chabanon’s striking southern French red is a must with roast beef. Made without any oak

and using only natural yeasts, so as not to mask the natural concentration of the old-vine fruit, this is a perfectly judged blend of mostly syrah, with mourvèdre and grenache in support. Now to 2024. 12.5%

E-BJ7171 Château Thivin, Côte de Brouilly Les Sept Vignes 2015 £14.95 £179 The warm 2015 Beaujolais vintage produced ripe and richly textured wines, but this fine

example, blended from seven different plots, retains its freshness and minerality alongside its ravishing dark-fruit character. A delicious winter warmer. Now to 2021. 13.5%

E-IT23801 Casa Romana, Principe Pallavicini 2012 £16 £192 This delicious, husky Italian take on the Bordeaux blend is the brainchild of Carlo Ferrini, who

has brought his long experience with red wine in Tuscany to this excellent Lazio property. Depth and distinction abound in this mix of 60% petit verdot and 40% cabernets sauvignon and franc. Now to 2021. 13.5% Low stock.

E-US7271 Qupé ‘A Modern Red’ Santa Barbara Syrah-Grenache-Mourvèdre 2014 £16.50 £198 Veteran winemaker Bob Lindquist was one of the first of America’s ‘Rhône Rangers’, advocating star-

spangled syrah and other Rhône varieties long before it became fashionable. This is his take on classic Côtes-du-Rhône: a blend of syrah, grenache and mourvèdre, aged in old French oak barrels for 16 months to produce a beautifully rounded and concentrated wine. Now to 2022. 14%

E-IT24591 Dolcetto d’Alba Coste e Fossati, GD Vajra 2016 £17 £204 This is an exceptional Italian dolcetto. Intense and delicious fragrant fruit from old vines Aldo Vajra

selected for their quality many years ago. This wine ages well, as the 2003 tasted recently proves. Drink with homemade pasta, fresh vegetables or egg dishes. Now to 2026. 13.5% Low stock.

E-CS10191 Château Villars, Fronsac 2007 £17 £204 The underrated Bordeaux commune of Fronsac and the oft-overlooked 2007 vintage have

conspired to craft a superb-value claret here. A fully mature, fragrant, savoury and satisfying wine. Now to 2020. 13%

E-FC33651 Terrasses du Larzac, La Jasse, Domaine La Jasse Castel 2015 £19 £228 Chase away the cold with this cockle-warming and hearty southern French gem. A blend of

70% barrel-aged syrah with grenache, this is very full-bodied with big, bold fruit flavours, spice and a long finish. Fireside red par excellence! Now to 2023. 15%

E-GR1161 Earth and Sky Naoussa Thymiopoulos 2015 £19 £228 A must-try: this superb wine shows off the xinomavro grape, native to the hilly vineyards of

northern Greece, at its purest and best. Its gorgeous bouquet of fragrant wild red fruits and seductively sweet but structured palate are reminiscent of Côte de Nuits Burgundy. Now to 2024. 13.5%


HIGH-GRADE HUNGARYSomloi Juhfark is not a name that trips off the tongue, but the wine shone out for sheer quality and full creamy flavour at a comprehensive Budapest tasting. This is the first time we have shipped from the small region of Somló, where Kolonics is the star producer. In Eger, I was delighted to find amazing wines at the St Andrea winery, where a father-and-son team has totally reinvented the much-abused name of Egri Bikaver, making beautiful examples with meticulous care. Erhard Heumann, the stand-out producer in Villány, joins them to make a compelling mixed case not to be missed. Sebastian Payne MW

WHITES bottle dozen

E-HU1081 Somloi Juhfark, Kolonics 2015 £17 £204 With a richness and generous full dry flavour similar to good Meursault, this Hungarian white

was a wonderful recent discovery for us. Juhfark (which means, literally, ‘sheep’s tail’) is a rare grape now almost exclusive to Somlo in the west of the country, and clearly Kolonics has mastered its secret strength. Now to 2021. 14%

E-HU1091 Dongo Furmint, Szent Tamás 2015 £27 £324 Honeyed, ripe with a touch of beeswax and splendid length and depth of flavour, this is a full,

dry and vibrant example of Tokay’s signature grape, showing its fiery personality well. Now to 2025. 13.5%

ROSÉ bottle dozen

E-HU1031 Rosé Cuvée Villány, Heumann 2016 £9.50 £114 Delightful rosé with charm and fruit, made from kékfrankos and merlot by a small high-quality

estate in Villány, southern Hungary. Similar to Provençal rosé in colour but much more enjoyable than many pricier Provence pinks. Drink this year. 12.5%

REDS bottle dozen

E-HU1071 Áldás Egri Bikavér, St Andrea 2015 £11.50 £138 A beautifully balanced red with a silky palate and lovely scented-fruit aftertaste. Made from a

cocktail of grapes including kékfrankos, merlot and pinot noir by a master winemaker. Now to 2021. 13.5%

E-HU1061 Kadarka, Tibor Gál 2016 £11.95 £143 Perfumed, light, elegant and deliciously refreshing Hungarian red. Tibor Gál was immensely

important in driving the quality of wines from Eger and his children keep standards high. Now to 2020. 11.5%

E-HU1011 Kékfrankos Reserve, Heumann 2013 £14.95 £179 Splendid, fragrant full and fresh example of kékfrankos (aka the Austrian blaufränkisch grape),

made by Bavarian Erhard Heumann and his Swiss wife on their estate in Villány, where it clearly flourishes, and with oak ageing. This has developed beautifully in bottle. Drink this year and next. 14%

E-HU1051 Hangács Egri Bikaver, St Andrea 2013 £19 £228 Generously full, rich but elegantly stylish red which carries Egri Bikaver to a high level not found

elsewhere. With hints of thyme and delicious precise red fruits, this is outstanding by any international standard and should age beautifully for a few years yet too. Now to 2023. 14.5%

HIGH-GRADE HUNGARY CASE £82Drink this year


WHITESomloi Juhfark, Kolonics 2015ROSÉ Rosé Cuvée Villány, Heumann 2016

REDÁldás Egri Bikaver, St Andrea 2015Hangács Egri Bikaver, St Andrea 2013Kadarka, Tibor Gál 2016Kékfrankos Reserve, Heumann 2013

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A NEW ZEALAND GIANTTE MATA ESTATEWe’ve been working with New Zealand’s historic Te Mata Estate for a number of years and they remain at the very pinnacle of what the Hawke’s Bay region (on the east coast of the North Island) can achieve across a variety of styles. Their beautiful wines (made from syrah, Bordeaux grapes, sauvignon and chardonnay) have a loyal following among Society members. I am therefore all the more thrilled to present this special collection of wines. Sarah Knowles MW

WHITES bottle dozen

E-NZ9841 Te Mata Estate Hawke’s Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2017 £13.95 £167 A splendid ambassador for the Hawke’s Bay region’s sauvignons, and perhaps even a little more

grown-up than its Marlborough cousins, this sophisticated and refreshing wine offers generous but wonderfully balanced apple and peach flavours on the palate. A slight mineral hint to the finish confirms its class. Drink this year and next. 12%

E-NZ9201 Te Mata Estate Elston Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2015 £22.50 £270 Produced since 1984, Elston is a concentrated and complex wine with precision and poise. A blend

of the best wines from 11 of this exceptional estate’s chardonnay plots, the 2015 offers toasty oak and green-apple flavours, bright acidity and a long satisfying finish. Now to 2020. Low stock. 14%

REDS bottle dozen

E-NZ7341 Te Mata Woodthorpe Hawke’s Bay Cabernet-Merlot 2013 £12.95 £155 An irresistible proposition: one of New Zealand’s loveliest ‘Bordeaux’ blends from a magnificent

vintage, now with nearly five years of cellaring under its belt. The time in bottle has allowed a touch of spicy cigar-box complexity to complement the wine’s layered forest-fruit flavours. Ripe, round and ready to go. Now to 2020. 14%

E-NZ9261 Te Mata Estate Hawke’s Bay Syrah 2015 £13.50 £162 A benchmark Hawke’s Bay syrah with a wonderful violet, peppercorn and blackberry perfume

and a delicious enticing palate. Full but fresh, with soft tannins, sweet plum and damson flavours coming through on the finish, this is gorgeous to drink now and is a soulmate with lamb. Now to 2021. 13%

E-NZ9851 Te Mata Bullnose Hawke’s Bay Syrah 2015 £33 £396 Treading an admirable line between power and poise, this is a dense, rich and black-fruited

syrah. For all its considerable presence on the palate, the wine never feels heavy thanks to fresh acidity and perfectly integrated alcohol. Decant before serving to enjoy its cornucopia of cracked black pepper, plums, violets and mocha to the full. Now to 2027. 13.5%

Te Mata Awatea Hawke’s Bay Cabernet-Merlot 2013 The 2013 vintage is arguably the finest for a generation in Hawke’s Bay and this classic

Bordeaux blend (40% cabernet sauvignon, 39% merlot, 16% cabernet franc and 5% petit verdot) is a testament to its fine reputation. A wine of elegance and poise, whose complex aromas of cassis, leather and spice are complemented by freshness and fine tannins on the palate. A beauty. Now to 2025. 13.5% Available only in the Te Mata Collection case below.

THE TE MATA COLLECTION £92Drink or store to 2020

A six-bottle case containing two bottles of each of the following wines:

Te Mata Estate Hawke’s Bay Syrah 2015Te Mata Woodthorpe Hawke’s Bay Cabernet-Merlot 2013Te Mata Awatea Hawke’s Bay Cabernet-Merlot 2013

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‘HAUT’ COUTUREBORDEAUX VALUE FROM 2009 & 2010I am delighted to offer this impressive collection from four of the Haut-Médoc’s top properties, via two of the greatest vintages in living memory: the gorgeous, richly flavoured 2009 and the beautifully structured 2010.

As well as being one of the prettiest châteaux in the region, Château Cantemerle produces wines of elegance, charm and balance, standing out year after year as one of the best buys in Bordeaux. Château La Lagune has been an important Haut-Médoc estate since the 16th century. The style is elegant, beautifully textured and full of charm, in some ways midway between Margaux and Pessac-Léognan in flavour as well as position.

Château Camensac has been transformed since being bought in 2005 by Jean Merlaut, one of the wisest men in Bordeaux, and his talented niece Céline Villars-Loubet. The style is one of robustness and spiciness, giving plenty of pleasure at reasonable prices. Last but by no means least, Château Belgrave is a members’ favourite for good reason, producing wines with excellent balance and charm. Tim Sykes

bottle dozen

E-CM14121 Château Cantemerle, Haut-Médoc 2009 £34 £408 The great 2009 vintage was a hugely successful one for this, one of the most charming and

affordable of all classed-growth clarets. The accent as ever is on providing a lovely well-balanced wine for drinkers, imbued with the richness and personality of this extroverted and generous year. Now to 2030. 13%

E-CM14124 Magnum of Château Cantemerle, Haut-Médoc 2009 £68 £816 Now to 2033. 13%

E-CM14941 Château Cantemerle, Haut-Médoc 2010 £34 £408 Cantemerle’s 2010 is an emphatic success and a superb buy. Its fragrance, elegance, charm and

delicious flavour are conveyed with perfect balance, ensuring it will give great pleasure now and for some years yet. Now to 2030. Low stock. 13%

E-CM14942 Half bottle of Château Cantemerle, Haut-Médoc 2010 £18 £216 Now to 2026. 13%

E-CM14944 Magnum of Château Cantemerle, Haut-Médoc 2010 £68 £816 Now to 2034. 13%

E-CM15271 Château La Lagune, Haut-Médoc 2010 £55 £660 An outstanding vintage for this high-performing estate. A powerful and structured blend of

cabernet (55%) bringing elegance and class, merlot (35%), which was particularly velvety in this vintage, and petit verdot (10%) adding a touch of freshness and spice. The beautifully balanced whole is greater than the sum of its parts. Now to 2035. 14.5%

Château Belgrave, Haut-Médoc 2009 Splendid classy, stylish, long-living claret from this bargain classed-growth property next to Saint-

Julien’s renowned Château Lagrange. Now to 2030. 13% Available only in the Haut-Médoc 2009 & 2010 Case overleaf.

Château Camensac, Haut-Médoc 2009 Bought by the Merlaut family, who also own Chasse Spleen and Gruaud Larose, in time to

make the 2005 vintage, this property made a delightful 2009. A richly flavoured claret which was enjoyable in its youth but has started to develop beautifully. Now to 2022. 13.5% Available only in the Haut-Médoc 2009 & 2010 Case overleaf.

Château Camensac, Haut-Médoc 2010 Camensac’s 2010 shows off the qualities of this wonderful vintage without commanding the

price tag of many of its more illustrious neighbours. Structured but sweetly fruited with charm and poise, this is a superb effort from a revitalised estate. Now to 2025. 13.5% Available only in the Haut-Médoc 2009 & 2010 Case overleaf.


HAUT-MEDOC 2009 & 2010 CASE £199Drink or store to 2022


Château Cantemerle, Haut-Médoc 2009Château Belgrave, Haut-Médoc 2009Château Camensac, Haut-Médoc 2009Château Cantemerle, Haut-Médoc 2010Château Camensac, Haut-Médoc 2010Château La Lagune, Haut-Médoc 2010

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bottle dozen

E-SP13041 Los Autores El Brujo Vieja Reserva, Rioja 2011 (T) £13.95 £167 El Brujo means ‘the wizard’, the nickname given to winemaker Ezequiel García, who made the

legendary CVNE wines of the 1950s to 1970s and who sadly passed away just months after bottling this extraordinary Rioja. This reserva is his own selection, from top vineyards in Alavesa and Alta, aged in the traditional way. Savoury, mellow and soft, this is a fine Rioja to savour with fine food. Now to 2021. 13.5%

E-SP13311 Finca Vallobera, Rioja 2014 (M) £15.50 £186 An excellent, contemporary style of Rioja. Although this is from grapes of reserva quality, the

way in which it is made means that the term ‘reserva’ cannot be used on the label. No matter, as the wine is delicious! Aged in barrel for 12 months, with a high proportion of new French oak giving the wine structure and texture, this is a generous and controlled red with healthy blueberry-fruit flavour. Decant an hour before serving. Now to 2022. 13.5%

E-SP13021 Tobelos Reserva, Rioja 2012 (MC) £21 £252 As different spices can bring out different flavours in a dish, different oak can season a wine to

delicious effect. For this exotic, smoky and sensuous Rioja, a mixture of American and French oak was used to impart spice and elegance respectively. The result is a fine advertisement for the modern-classical style. Now to 2025. 14%

E-SP13361 Lanzaga, Rioja 2012 (M) £22 £264 A velvety, modern-style Rioja with rich black fruit and spice flavours, this has fantastic backbone,

freshness and length. Best decanted before drinking to balance its gratifying but complex mixture of richness and refinement. Now to 2025. 14.5%

A RIOJA STYLE GUIDEA wave of ambition is sweeping through this heartland of Spanish fine wine. So much so that in recent years we’ve found it helpful to introduce a key to distinguish between the three broad styles being produced. Below I’ve assembled some of the finest proponents of each.

Traditional Riojas (T) are silky, delicate and generally ready to drink, thanks to long ageing in cask and bottle. La Rioja Alta and Los Autores represent this style with aplomb.

Modern (M) wines show off the contemporary trend for rich, powerful wines that develop beautifully in bottle. Look to Lanzaga and Vallobera for two top examples.

Modern-Classical (MC), represented ably by Remelluri and Tobelos, offer something between the two: rounder wines but with the unmistakable influence of the traditional style.

The superb quality of wines being produced in each style means that there has never been a better time to buy Rioja. Try the styles individually, or snap up a fascinating compare-and-contrast case to find your favourites. Pierre Mansour


bottle dozen

E-SP12581 La Rioja Alta Viña Ardanza Reserva, Rioja 2008 (T) £22 £264 The 2008 vintage marked the 75th birthday for this classic reserva. How fitting then that this

wine should be so generous, having shone in our Wine Champions blind tasting and on subsequent occasions last year. Fleshy, round and smooth, its ten years of ageing in barrel and bottle have resulted in a wine of harmony, complexity and balance. Now to 2023. 13.5%

E-SP10881 Remelluri Gran Reserva, Rioja 2009 (MC) £39 £468 Telmo Rodríguez made a rich, characterful 2009 at his family’s historic and prestigious estate.

This has a classy and harmonious mineral aroma and a pleasing balance between richness and freshness, with spicy oak flavours mingling on the finish. Powerful, intense and delicious. Now to 2030. 14.5%

A RIOJA STYLE GUIDE

RIOJA STYLES CASE £129Drink or store to 2021


TRADITIONALLa Rioja Alta Viña Ardanza Reserva, Rioja 2008 Los Autores El Brujo Vieja Reserva, Rioja 2011 MODERNFinca Vallobera, Rioja 2014 Lanzaga, Rioja 2012MODERN-CLASSICALRemelluri Gran Reserva, Rioja 2009Tobelos Reserva, Rioja 2012

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GOOD-VALUE WHITE BURGUNDY CASE £129Drink or store to 2020


François d’Allaines, Rully ‘Tête de Cuvée’ 2015Olivier Leflaive, Bourgogne Oncle Vincent 2015François d’Allaines, Auxey-Duresses 2015Olivier Leflaive, Saint-Aubin 2015Jean-Marc Vincent, Montagny Premier Cru 2015Jean-Marc Vincent, Santenay Blanc Les Potets 2015

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bottle dozen

E-BU63061 François d’Allaines, Rully ‘Tête de Cuvée’ 2015 £18 £216 Fermented and matured entirely in barrel, this is nevertheless a fresh and lemony white Burgundy,

with a sophisticated mineral and grippy palate that will shine with food. Now to 2021. 12.5%

E-BU63131 Olivier Leflaive, Bourgogne Oncle Vincent 2015 £18 £216 A floral-scented ‘baby’ Puligny-Montrachet from the excellent Olivier Leflaive, harvested from

old vines planted just below Puligny itself. Barrel fermented and matured on its lees (yeasts) for nine months to add further texture to the mineral palate. Now to 2030. 13%

E-BU63081 François d’Allaines, Auxey-Duresses 2015 £21.50 £258 An excellent blend from across the Auxey-Duresses region, with over a third coming from the

appellation’s best vineyard, Les Autés. Fermented then matured for about a year in barrel, leading to a rich and powerful wine with an intense honeysuckle-scented aroma and good length of flavour. Now to 2020. 12.5%

E-BU63091 Olivier Leflaive, Saint-Aubin 2015 £22 £264 The cool valley of Saint-Aubin does well in warm years, preserving the freshness and giving a

honeysuckle perfume. This was the case in 2015, here producing a very attractive wine with a ripe yet fresh palate. Now to 2022. 13.5%

E-BU65721 Jean-Marc Vincent, Montagny Premier Cru 2015 £22.50 £270 A cleverly made Burgundy whose ripe yet firm palate is very well balanced. Jean-Marc Vincent

fermented this wine in 300-litre barrels instead of the classic 228-litre size, meaning that scent and flavour are not marked as highly by oak, and that less oxygen is allowed into the vessel, preserving the freshness. A very good buy. Now to 2021. 13%

E-BU65711 Jean-Marc Vincent, Santenay Blanc Les Potets 2015 £27 £324 Produced from old vines, which lend a depth and concentration to this richly flavoured wine.

Muscular, rather than soft in texture, and also benefiting from fermentation in 300-litre barrels. Now to 2022. 13%

WHITE BURGUNDY THAT WON’T BREAK THE BANKThere is good value to be found in Burgundy, but one has to search the byways rather than the main roads. In terms of regions, I have found the Côte Chalonnaise a good hunting ground for attractively priced wines: the wines from its sub-regions of Rully and Montagny below are excellent examples. Olivier Leflaive work hard to price their wines keenly, as does the brilliant Jean-Marc Vincent. Both offer high-quality wines at attractive prices. Toby Morrhall


bottle dozen

E-FC33731 Saint-Chinian, Château La Dournie 2015 £9.95 £119 Deeply coloured and brimming with dark, slightly smoky fruit flavours, this is a generously

flavoured, full-bodied and spice-laden Languedoc red with plenty of character. Now to 2022. 14%

E-FC33771 Mas Champart, Vin de Pays d’Oc 2016 £11.95 £143 In such a ripe and exuberant vintage, this wine was made almost entirely from the cabernet

franc grape, and the fruit was given a shorter extraction time in the winery. Both have proven excellent decisions, as this is utterly gorgeous! Dark, juicy and brimming with delicious raspberry fruit. Now to 2021. 14%

E-FC33751 Saint-Chinian Côte d’Arbo, Mas Champart 2015 £11.95 £143 One of Saint-Chinian’s best wines: a ripe-tasting and full-flavoured red that leaps from the glass

with dark-berry fruit, spicy complexity and plenty of character. A rich winter warmer, but impeccably balanced with it. Now to 2022. 13.5%

E-FC33721 Saint-Chinian ‘Etienne’, Château La Dournie 2014 £12.95 £155 For six generations succession has passed from mother to daughter. The style is elegance

and reserve, but the wines remain generously flavoured and notable for a touch of spice. The ‘Etienne’ cuvée is dominated by 60% syrah with grenache and carignan adding complexity. Now to 2023. 14%

E-FC33741 Saint-Chinian ‘Elise’, Château La Dournie 2014 £16.50 £198 Top-of-the range, syrah-dominated, barrel-aged red made from low-yielding grapes, which lend

the wine wonderful richness. Complex, smoky and spicy with glorious hints of truffle. Now to 2028. 14%

E-FC33761 Saint-Chinian Clos de la Simonette, Mas Champart 2014 £22 £264 Clos de la Simonette’s dry stone walls surround a parcel of old grenache which is blended with

some mourvèdre grown at high altitude to ensure a degree of freshness. This has been raised in oak for 18 months to produce a weighty, rich, complex wine, knocking on the door of the Bandol region’s famed mourvèdre-dominated reds. Best decanted. Now to 2024. 14.5%

THE SAINTS OF SAINT-CHINIANThere are two sides to this large area of the Languedoc, sandwiched between Minervois and Faugères, each of which I have represented in the form of two top estates. This is an unmissable opportunity to explore their contrasting styles, including a tempting mixed case.

Firstly, to the north and in the hills, the vines are planted on schistous soils, which give the wines a certain tension and intensity. This is the land of Château La Dournie. Further down, everything changes and the soil, limestone and clay becomes dizzyingly white. The wines are fuller, fatter and well represented by the superb Mas Champart. Both of these top Saint-Chinian estates are run by inspirational women: Isabelle Champart moved there with her husband Matthieu from Paris, while Véronique Etienne is the sixth generation to run La Dournie. Marcel Orford-Williams

SAINTS OF SAINT-CHINIAN CASE £85Drink or store to 2021


Saint-Chinian, Château La Dournie 2015Saint-Chinian ‘Etienne’, Château La Dournie 2014Saint-Chinian ‘Elise’, Château La Dournie 2014Mas Champart, Vin de Pays d’Oc 2016Saint-Chinian Côte d’Arbo, Mas Champart 2015Saint-Chinian Clos de la Simonette, Mas Champart 2014

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Buyer Marcel Orford-Williams


2015 SOUTH AFRICATHE DECADE’S DREAM VINTAGEIt is rare to see vintage consistency – even across grapes of the same colour – in a country the size of South Africa, with vineyards spread across a vast, varied, ancient landscape that combines immaculate manicured vineyards with the downright wild. However, in 2015, all grapes and regions performed, making this the dream vintage of the decade.

I selected this snapshot of the vintage to reflect the dynamism of the new generation of South African winemakers, covering a rewarding range of styles to enjoy. In such an exciting vintage, they are highly recommended, to both Cape aficionados and the uninitiated alike. Joanna Locke MW

WHITES bottle dozen

E-SA11471 Radford Dale The Renaissance of Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch 2015 £17.50 £210 Alex Dale has been a driving force in restoring the reputation of chenin blanc in the Cape.

This elegant, subtly barrel-fermented example from a single block of old, unirrigated bush vines on the lower slopes of the Helderberg Mountain, facing south to False Bay and the Southern Atlantic Ocean, combines saline freshness and tension, balanced intensity and great length. Now to 2021. 12.5%

E-SA12551 Crystallum ‘The Agnes’ Chardonnay, Western Cape 2015 £21.50 £258 Peter-Allan Finlayson has inherited his father’s deft touch with chardonnay and pinot noir (see

below for a delicious example of the latter). One of the now-established young guns to bring a new excitement to the Cape, here using fruit from five different cooler-climate vineyards and only a touch of new oak to produce a disarmingly approachable new world chardonnay of real class. Drink this year and next. 13.5%

E-SA12191 Alheit Cartology, Western Cape 2015 £25 £300 This celebrated Cape White Blend is made by the humble and hugely talented Chris Alheit,

who shot into the limelight with his first vintage. Old bush-vine chenin blanc from multiple, hand-selected, high-lying vineyards, is complemented by around 10% venerable semillon from a single vineyard in Franschhoek. The result is magnificent, offering pithy stone-fruit aromas lifted by hints of orange blossom, all supported by a firm, mineral backbone. Now to 2020. 14%

REDS bottle dozen

E-SA12741 Kaapzicht Estate Pinotage, Stellenbosch 2015 £13.95 £167 The Steytler family produced sought-after grapes long before they started bottling their own

in the 1980s. This has the wonderful richness that comes naturally from old bush-vines, complemented by a more modern, crowd-pleasing touch of ripe black fruits on the palate with just a little oak for freshness and structure. Now to 2022. 14.5%

E-SA12461 Boekenhoutskloof ‘The Chocolate Block’, Swartland 2015 £19 £228 A now-iconic red blend from the infamously difficult to pronounce (but who cares!)

Boekenhoutskloof. The majority is rich, spicy syrah with a kaleidoscope of complementary varieties, together epitomising the warmth and generosity of the fashionable Swartland region. Now to 2022. 14.5%

E-SA12561 Crystallum ‘Peter Max’ Pinot Noir, Western Cape 2015 £23 £276 First made in 2008, Peter Max is a four-vineyard blend (including grapes from the Elandskloof

which was pioneered by Peter-Allan’s father). Refreshing bright red fruits and hints of spice are complemented on the elegant palate by a silky texture and long smooth finish. Now to 2020. 14%

SOUTH AFRICA 2015 CASE £120Drink or store to next year

A six-bottle case containing one bottle of each of the above wines.

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FNJAN18

This offer is open until Sunday 8th April, 2018 while stocks last.

thewinesociety.com/fi newines

Uncork with confi dence

The Wine Society is a mutual organisation, so our members’ satisfaction is paramount. If, for any reason, you haven’t enjoyed a wine we want to hear about it and will happily offer a credit, a replacement or a refund. thewinesociety.com/promise

How to use this Listl Wines are listed by theme and then by pricel Drink dates are given as a guide to maturity and ageing

potentiall For further information about any of the wines please contact

Member Services on 01438 741177 l Fine wines too limited in quantity to be listed may be

found in the fine wine section of The Society’s website at thewinesociety.com/finewine

Fine Wine Advisers – here to helpPlease contact the Fine Wine Advisers for help with wine selection, food matching and any other wine-related subject. Visit thewinesociety.com/advice or call 01438 741177 to find out more.

HIGHLIGHTS IN THIS LIST INCLUDE:

2006 & 2007: A ready-to-drink revisit of two vintages around the world.

TASMANIA: Find out what all the fuss is about.

VINTAGE CHAMPAGNE: A special vertical tasting case from Castelnau.

SMALL WONDERS: Fine wine at £20 and under.

HIGH-GRADE HUNGARY: Take your palate off the beaten track.

HAUT-MEDOC 2009 & 2010: Great-value claret from two stunning vintages.

WHITE BURGUNDY: Serious wines that won’t break the bank.

OF THE YEAR 2017

Documents

Fine Wines Jan 2018 · 2018-01-10 · E-RH19661 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Chante Le Merle, Le Bosquet des Papes 2006 £30 £360 This is a rich, full and intensely dark Châteauneuf which