Final touches during the making of the ‘Colombe Mystérieuse Clip’ by Van Cleef & Arpels in 18K white, red and pink gold set with diamonds, emeralds, rubies and Traditional Mystery Set rubies; Le Secret collection. POA.

www.vancleefarpels.com

The July Couture week in Paris is the most important time for haute joaillerie presentations. Some houses also present new creations in January (see Deluxe Pad February 2017 issue for The Haute Joaillerie Report, Paris, January 2017), how-ever all of them, including smaller independent players and a grow-ing number of fine jewellers, un-veil their latest work in July.

Making-of a necklace in 18K grey gold set with one 16.82-carat mandarin garnet and 22.31 carats of diamonds; Conquêtes collection Louis Vuitton. POA.

www.louisvuitton.com

In this vintage, a few houses have stepped up their efforts in sourcing exceptional gemstones; something they did not do in previous collections preferring instead to favour the creative aspect. This move will strategically cement their position with in-creasingly discerning collectors. It’s also ev-ident that some designers have embraced a sense of eccentricity, with exuberant pieces that thumb their nose at the classical pre-conception of what high jewellery should be. In the same way, many have pushed out technical boundaries, which is entirely to the credit of the ateliers: transformable jewels have never been so ‘transformable’! Overall the mood was upbeat with collec-tions inviting us to sun-drenched gardens and seasides (Mediterranea by Giampiero Bodino, Dior à Versailles, côté jardins by Dior, Flying Clouds by Chanel, Sunlight Journey by Piaget, Isola Madre by Mellerio, Fruits de ma Passion by Lydia Courteille), to celebrate life through music and festivities (Festa by Bulgari, Chaumet est une Fête) or to travel to a fantastic, faraway land where jewellery is always intriguing and excit-ing (Le Secret by Van Cleef & Arpels, Hiver Impérial by Boucheron).

Note: PART III and final of the Haute Joaillerie Report, Paris, July 2017 will be published on Deluxe Pad at the end of August 2017.

Necklace in 18K grey gold set with one 16.82-carat mandarin garnet and 22.31 carats of diamonds; Conquêtes collection Louis Vuitton. POA.

www.louisvuitton.com

The Buccellati high jewellery presentation in their rue de la Paix flagship boutique was a demonstration of the house’s icon-ic designs and techniques (chiselled gold, ornate apertures, astute colour contrasts, etc.) but also the opportunity to see some slightly different creations compared to the traditional Buccellati’s aesthetics. All in all the fifty or so jewels were beauti-fully presented inside antique glass cabi-nets, on top of which laurel branches rest-ed. At the centre of the room a long table was decorated with vases and flowers, and this is where the silverwares were present-ed. Among the wealth of exquisite jewel-lery, it is worth noting the blue hot enam-elled cuff, only one of three one-of-a-kind pieces (the other two are green and bur-gundy), as well as the open-worked watch that looks like lace; as well as the bib-neck-lace with flames in white gold; as well as…all of them!

www.buccellati.com

Bangle bracelet in 18K yellow gold set with 262

round brilliant-cut diamonds (4.82cts). The cuff is “rigato”

engraved, with side triangular rosettes and in blue enamel. It has hexagonal rosettes in

white gold set with diamonds, centring a leaf-modelled

white gold bezel set with a diamond, and alternating with

rhomboidal shapes in white gold and diamonds; leaf-

modelled yellow gold borders finish the piece. POA.

Cocktail pendant earrings composed of rays in 18K pink gold set with rubies, alternating with

leaf-modelled white gold rays set with yellow and white diamonds. At the centre of the pendant

part, there is a yellow gold bezel set with a heliodor, while the upper part has a central

round yellow gold bezel set with a ruby. The pendant part is detachable by means of a yellow

gold bezel set with a ruby; 4.28 carats of round faceted rubies, 2 faceted heliodors (10cts) and

144 round brilliant-cut diamonds (1.42cts). POA.

Pagoda-like cocktail ring in openwork 18K white gold with sections set with diamonds. At the centre is a cushion-shaped bezel in yellow gold, leaf-modelled and set with a fancy diamond, contoured by shapes in modelled yellow gold; garland-shaped yellow gold borders set with yellow diamonds; modelled white gold stem with leaves flowing one after the other; 68 round brilliant-cut diamonds (0.89ct), 1 yellow diamond (1.67cts) and 40 fancy yellow diamonds (0.49ct). POA.

www.buccellati.com

Flexible bracelet in 18K yellow gold with honeycomb and

radial tulle patterns, with white gold curls set with diamonds,

laterally “rigato” engraved; 522 round brilliant-cut diamonds

(13.80cts). POA.

Bib-necklace with flames in 18K white gold and diamonds. In the centre of each flame are white gold leaf-modelled bezels set with diamonds, while the inner part is ruches-modelled white gold; 1448 round brilliant-cut diamonds (27.02cts). POA.

www.buccellati.com

The mood was masterfully set: an entrance with sea waves projected on the floor, a central platform with white high sails that compartmented the display columns, deck chairs scattered around… This was CHANEL’s homage to solar, radiant moments in the life of mademoiselle, with a full-on nautical theme; this was the introduction of CHANEL Fine Jewelry, the Flying Cloud Fine Jewelry collection in two chap-ters. “Flying Cloud is also the name of the yacht which belonged to Hugh Grosvenor, familiarly known as ‘Bendor’, the second Duke of Westminster, one of the men who undoubtedly counted the most in the design-er’s life”, the team says. All the main symbols refer-ring to yachting and sailing were astutely used in the designs: ropes, stripes, buoys, anchors, sailor’s but-tons, tattoos… In the end Flying Cloud is an ingenious interpretation, as the theme never made the pieces look ‘costumish’ but rather expressed utter elegance.

www.chanel.com

‘Yachting Day Brooch’ in 18K white gold set with a 1.57-carat round-cut diamond, one 1.53-carat pear-cut diamond and 481 brilliant-cut diamonds; Flying Cloud collection; CHANEL Fine Jewelry. POA.

www.chanel.com

‘Turquoise Waters Necklace’ in 18K white gold set with a 2.58-carat pear-cut diamond, 12 cushion-cut blue sapphires, 34 oval-cut blue sapphires, 3 pear-cut blue sapphires, 2 round-cut blue sapphires and 1552 brilliant-cut diamonds for a total weight of 23.84cts; Flying Cloud collection; CHANEL Fine Jewelry. POA.

‘Turquoise Waters Earrings’ in 18K white gold set with 2 oval-cut blue sapphires (4.21cts), 2

pear-cut diamonds (3.03cts), 4 round-cut blue sapphires and 276

brilliant-cut diamonds; Flying Cloud collection; CHANEL Fine

Jewelry. POA.

www.chanel.com

‘Deep Blue Bracelet’ in 18K white gold set with a 2.51-carat oval-cut diamond, 55 oval-cut blue sapphires and 1175 brilliant-cut diamonds; Flying Cloud collection; CHANEL Fine Jewelry. POA.

‘Precious Float Ring’ in 18K white gold set with a 1.01-carat round-cut diamond, 2 blue lapis lazulis and 108 brilliant-cut diamonds; Flying Cloud collection; CHANEL Fine Jewelry. POA.

‘Summer Cruise Ring’ in 18K white gold set with a 5.02-carat marquise-cut diamond, 28 blue sapphires and 26 brilliant-cut diamonds; Flying Cloud collection; CHANEL Fine Jewelry. POA.

Nothing like a play on words for the title of a collection that has at its core a play on two eponymous symbols. Conquêtes is indeed Louis Vuitton’s latest high jewellery collection, and in French is can mean either a territorial or an am-orous conquest; either way some kind of force is involved each time. It is al-so a memorable collection for it merg-es two emblematic signature motifs, the Monogram flower and the V (which noticeably were the heroes of previous collections, however not simultaneous-ly). So for the first time, the round as-pects of the flower motif espouse the angular style of the V, and this new in-signia serves to enhance rare bright co-loured gemstones (another signature of the house). Imperial topaz, mandarin garnet and vivid blue tourmaline emit their special radiance, and the more you explore the designs, the more de-tails are unveiled, in particular the ac-cents of lacquer that are hidden from first sight.

Necklace in 18K grey gold set with one 7.55-carat tsavorite garnet,

chrysoprase, pearls, onyx, lacquer and 6.26 carats of diamonds; Conquêtes

collection Louis Vuitton. POA.

www.louisvuitton.com

Two rings in 18K grey gold set with (left) one 7.76-carat Paraiba tourmaline and 4.45 carats of diamonds; (right) one 4.44-carat tourmaline and 3.72 carats of diamonds; Conquêtes collection Louis Vuitton. POA.

Bracelet in 18K grey gold set with one 12.16-carat tourmaline and 19.04 carats of diamonds; Conquêtes collection Louis Vuitton. POA.

Necklace in 18K grey gold set with one 54.30-carat tourmaline, pearls and 23.14 carats of diamonds; Conquêtes collection Louis Vuitton. POA.

www.louisvuitton.com

In Lydie Courteille’s new collection, Fruit de ma Passion, the he-donistic quality of this Garden of Eden is on steroids, as though seen through a kaleidoscope of the most joyous and delectable shades of pink and yellow. Here the fruits are exotic (bananas, Cédrat, Buddha’s hand lemons, star fruits) and the snake appar-ently benign. To achieve her chromatic extravaganza, Courteille has unearthed the only gemstones that could provide such live-ly colour depth: rubellites and tourmalines for the pink hues, and sapphires for the vivid yellow hit. The visual sensory jolt certain-ly exudes passion, albeit a playful one. Sweet and sour, fizzy and creamy, in each piece the ripe delicacy (pink) is nestled in a yel-low jungle, and naturally shielded by a lurking snake.

Ring in 18K gold set with one 7.23-carat rubellite, 4.90 carats of yellow sapphires, 3.73 carats of brown diamonds and tsavorites; Fruit de ma Passion Collection. POA.

www.lydiacourteille.com

Earrings in 18K gold set with tourmalines (6.60grs), 5.95 carats of yellow sapphires, 6.87 carats of brown diamonds and tsavorites; Fruit de ma Passion Collection. POA.

www.lydiacourteille.com

The Paris Couture week was the opportu-nity for Messika to present a few additions to their iconic Paris est une Fête Collection (which was first introduced at Basel World this year). Faithful to the 1920s vibe of the collection, the new pieces demonstrate once again how the French jeweller suc-cessfully explores volumes and shapes with one single component, white diamonds. The ‘Zelda Choker’ (a cool counterpart of the sassy ‘Flappers Choker’) is a play on disrupted symmetry – the vertical and hor-izontal have now merged – while the ‘Man Ray Tie Necklace’ is a chameleon, entirely made of marquise-cut diamonds, it can be worn three ways. Known for being a sensa-tional adorner of ears, Messika has also tai-lored a few superb earcuffs, including the ‘Isadora’ style, a chic line of pear-shaped diamonds.

www.messika.com

‘Zelda Choker’ in 18K white gold set with 473 emerald- and brilliant-cut diamonds

(40.29cts); Paris est une Fête Collection. POA.

www.messika.com

‘Madeleine Scarf Necklace’ in 18K white diamonds set with 446 marquise-cut EF VS diamonds (92cts) and 30 pear-cut diamonds (5.5cts) – this includes a detachable pear of 4.01-carats; Paris est une Fête Collection. POA.

‘Isadora Earcuffs’ in 18K white gold set with 19 pear-cut diamonds (4.79cts); Paris est une Fête Collection. POA.

As always it was such a pleasure to delve into Moussaieff’s selection of high jewellery for the Paris Couture week. ‘Delve’ is indeed the best way to describe how mesmeris-ing each Moussaieff jewel is, for each has a story that re-volves around rarity. Be it the indigo depth of an import-ant natural Burma sapphire, so irresistible in fact that you want to dive into its brilliance; or the insanely precious marriage of fancy blue and fancy pink diamonds in a ro-mantic pair of earrings, the former with a round cut that is even rarer than the rare gem itself; or the deceptively demure Golconda type IIA pear-shaped diamond whose limpidity and crystal clarity awarded it the holy grail of grades: ‘Finest Water’. Not a single piece is without a spe-cialty, so much so that Moussaieff is surely both a custodi-an of all things unique when it comes to high jewellery and a consummate storyteller (not a colour or cut that does not prompt a revelation).

Ring in 18K pink gold set with one 7.48-carat Burma oval-

cut ruby, one 2.29-carat oval shape rose-cut diamond, 20 rose-cut diamonds (0.30ct) and 65 round-cut diamonds

(0.56ct). POA.

‘Natural Burma Sapphire 91.38-carats’ set as a

brooch/pendant with yellow diamonds and emeralds, and

paired with an emerald and diamond necklace. POA.

www.moussaieff.co.uk

Flagship Boutique: 172 New Bond Street, London W1S 4RE

Tel: 0207 290 1536

Necklace in 18K white gold set with rose-cut, pear-shaped and pink diamonds for a total of 18.23 carats; paired with a pendant made of one 8.13-carat Golconda Type IIA ‘Finest Water’ DIF pear-shaped diamond, one 0.19-carat natural fancy deep purple pink marquise-cut diamond, one 0.30-carat pink marquise-cut diamond, and one 0.22-carat brilliant-cut pink diamond. POA.

‘Natural Fancy Pink and Blue Diamond Earrings’, in 18K white

gold set with 7.60 carats of fancy blue, 2.05 carats of fancy pink, and

0.95 carat of white diamonds. POA.

www.moussaieff.co.uk

There is no better way to capture an important and in-timate moment than by associating it with the offering of one (or more) fine jewel. Nothing spells ‘precious moment’ more than an actual precious token; an heir-loom that will be passed down from generation to gen-eration so that the memory will live on, and that this same memento will become a lucky charm over time. Le Secret by Van Cleef & Arpels is a treasure trove of such meaningful keepsakes, each with a secret known only to the wearer, and with various ingenious repre-sentations: a heart-warming message engraved on the reverse, a ring that contains several jewels, a bracelet that metamorphoses, a flower clip whose petals can be gently rotated to reveal engraved messages on the re-verse… It is magical and enchanting, a remarkable feat of craftsmanship as every single mechanism that helps operate the illusion is hidden. Le Secret sentiment-lad-en creations are to be cherished with the same inten-sity as loved ones.

‘Colombe Mystérieuse Clip’ in 18K white, red and pink gold

set with diamonds, emeralds, rubies and Traditional

Mystery Set rubies; Le Secret collection. POA.

www.vancleefarpels.com

‘Pégase Necklace with Detachable Clip’ in 18K white gold set with one Sri Lankan 45.10-carat emerald-cut sapphire, diamonds, emeralds, and sapphires; Le Secret collection. POA.

‘Séraphîta Transformable Ring’ in 18K white and pink gold set with one Madagascan 16.46-carat emerald-cut sapphire, diamonds, blue and mauve sapphires; Le Secret collection. POA.

www.vancleefarpels.com

‘Métamorphose du Cygne Clip’ in 18K yellow and white gold set with coloured sapphires, spessartite garnets, black spinels, onyx and diamonds; Le Secret collection. POA.

www.vancleefarpels.com