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FENDI EYES FRAGRANCE, JEWELRY AND HOTELS FOR GROWTH/4-5Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • May 1, 2007 • $2.00
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Zany DayINDIO, Calif. — Who says indie bands have to be dark and dreary?
Certainly not Tilly and the Wall, the quirky Coachella standout that
has a penchant for colorful Eighties garb. “We love dresses,”
says singer and bassist Kianna Alarid. “And for big shows like
this, glitter and sparkles make a big difference.” For more on Tilly
and the Wall and the recent Coachella festival, see pages 6 to 9.
WWDTUESDAYReady-to-Wear/Textiles
From left: Jamie Pressnall in Doucette Duvall’s dress, Jack Rabbit belt, Alexis Bittar bangle and Moschino shoes; Neely Jenkins in Diane von Furstenberg’s dress, Hot Sox tights, Alexis Bittar bracelets and Alexandra Neel shoes; Kianna Alarid in Pegah Anvarian’s dress, Wasteland belt, Hansel from Basel tights, Peggy Noland necklace and Bruno Frisoni shoes; Nick White in Parballe’s T-shirt, Levi’s jeans and Diesel shoes, and Derek Pressnall in Paul Frank’s shirt, Juicy Couture’s pants, Band of Outsiders tie and Hunter’s Bay shoes.
WWD.COM2 WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 1, 2007
WWDTUESDAYReady-to-Wear/Textiles
FASHIONThe Coachella music festival is big on fashion — from the quirky band Tilly and the Wall to the free-wheeling visitors that trekked to the event.
GENERALCounterfeiting of fashion goods in China worsened in 2006, despite political and industry pressure to curtail it, a USTR report revealed.
Gordon Thompson is stepping down from his full-time role as creative director and executive vice president at Cole Haan.
BEAUTY: Second-quarter profi ts at Alberto-Culver Co. fell 60 percent from the same period last year.
Adidas is updating the WNBA uniforms featuring a racer-back cut that can be tucked in and portrays WNBA players as superheroes.
Fendi is set to roll out a long-awaited fragrance, open stores in markets from Turkey to Qatar and is mulling forays into fi ne jewelry and hotels.
TEXTILES: The Direction and Printsource shows featured designs with strong tribal and ethnic infl uences that outshone parochial prints.
Liz Claiborne Inc. created a $350,000 scholarship in Tim Gunn’s name at Parsons, and the school named him honorary chair of fashion design.
EYEIsaac Mizrahi is set to make his Metropolitan Opera debut, designing costumes for “Orfeo ed Euridice,” directed by his friend, Mark Morris.
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● CHARLOTTE RUSSE PICKS CFO: San Diego teen retailer Charlotte Russe announced the appointment of Patti Johnson, former executive vice president and chief fi nancial offi cer of Old Navy, as executive vice president and chief fi nancial of-fi cer, effective May 21. Johnson replaces former cfo Dan Carter, who resigned. Johnson was cfo of the Kohl’s department store chain from 1998 to 2003, and vice president of fi nance and con-troller for The Disney Stores from 1995 to 1998. Charlotte Russe operates 395 stores in the U.S. and Puerto Rico, and expects to open at least 50 units in fi scal 2007.
● NEW KELLWOOD UNIT POST: Gary F. Simmons, president of Gerber Childrenswear, a division of Kellwood Co., has added the title of chief executive offi cer, a new post. Simmons has been president since March 2005. Before joining Gerber, Simmons was president and ceo of VF Playwear and president of Healthtex. Simmons is based in New York and will continue to report to W. Lee Capps 3rd, Kellwood’s chief operating of-fi cer and chief fi nancial offi cer.
● NEW YORK STOP: For those unable to cross the Atlantic for the “New York Fashion” exhibition at London’s Victoria and Albert Museum, curator Sonnet Stanfill is making a pit stop in New York on May 8 to discuss the show, its origins, inspiration and influence. The event, taking place at Barnes & Noble at FIT, coincides with this month’s debut of the exhibit’s accom-panying book. Designers included in “New York Fashion” who are expected to make an appearance include Maggie Norris, Mary Ping, Jean Yu and Craig Robinson.
In Brief
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WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2007 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
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Report Sees China Counterfeiting WorsenBy Kristi Ellis
WASHINGTON — Counterfeiting of apparel, footwear and accesso-ries in China worsened last year, despite pressure from the U.S. and initiatives by luxury firms and governments to prod the Chinese to strengthen enforce-ment, according to a new report.
Although there was “in-creasing attention from foreign governments, the media and China’s central and local govern-ments, the Silk [Street] Market in Beijing remains possibly the world’s most notorious market for counterfeit goods,” the U.S. Trade Representative’s office
said in an annual study released Monday on the effectiveness of intellectual property rights pro-tection by U.S. trading partners.
Other “hot spots” in Beijing continue to be the Chaoyang, Tianyi and Yaxiu Markets, ac-cording to the report, which cited “local protectionism” as an underlying factor. The survey also found rampant counterfeit-ing of apparel, footwear and ac-cessories in other provinces, in-cluding Fujian and Guangdong, which the USTR studied for the fi rst time. The report cited im-provements in intellectual prop-erty rights enforcement in some regions, including Shanghai.
U.S. trade officials said in the report that the fashion in-dustry has cited Beijing’s Silk Street Market, a shopping mall that opened last year, as “per-haps the single biggest symbol of China’s [intellectual property]
enforcement problems.”Fashion industry executives
said in a separate January sur-vey, according to the USTR, that “counterfeiting had worsened” in that market, with “appar-ent” violations in 65 percent of all outlets, and the proportion of apparel counterfeit goods — including apparel, eyewear, leather products, footwear and watches — ranging from 80 to 100 percent.
A U.S. trade official, who spoke on the condition of ano-nymity on a conference call with reporters, declined to comment on whether the U.S. would take action against the Chinese on
apparel counterfeiting in the Silk Street Market, but added: “Certainly, the lack of progress by all is a concern for us.”
China has long been the number-one source of coun-terfeit goods to the U.S. Counterfeit and pirated goods from China accounted for 81 percent of the total value of all merchandise seized last year, with a U.S. worth of $125.5 mil-lion, according to the Customs and Border Protection bureau. The value of bogus apparel seized from all U.S. trading partners, including China, rose $8 million to $24.3 million. The U.S. government did not reveal what amount of that could be attributed to China.
The USTR filed its first in-tellectual property rights cases against China with the World Trade Organization last month. One case focuses on Chinese legal
requirements intended to protect copyrights and trademarks, and the other targets trademarks and barriers to trade in movies, books, music and videos.
In 2005, China shut down the infamous Silk Alley, which was known as the place to buy de-signer fakes of all qualities from New Balance to Louis Vuitton handbags. But Chinese devel-opers opened the Silk Street Market shopping complex next to the empty alley and many vendors from Silk Alley simply moved in, industry experts said.
A call to the Chinese Embassy in Washington seeking comment was not returned.
Several luxury firms have prevailed in court actions re-lated to violations at the market and they executed a memoran-dum of understanding with the landlords in June, but it is un-clear whether the agreement was ever adopted.
Travis Johnson, associate counsel of The International AntiCounterfeiting Coalition, which incudes as members Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Kate Spade, Chanel, Cartier and Rolex, said brand owners have taken different approaches to a culturally ingrained piracy problem in China that could take years to alleviate.
“Most of the more expe-rienced brand owners have learned that there’s a differ-ent culture and way of dealing with the Chinese government and with Chinese businesses than there is in other regions,” Johnson said. “Most brand own-ers have really tried to look for more cooperative solutions rather than fi ling lawsuit after lawsuit.”
Brand owners would like to see more criminal enforcement of intellectual property rights violations, but are divided on what role the U.S. should have in shaping China’s policies, he added.
By Sophia Chabbott
Gordon Thompson, the creative force behind Cole Haan, is stepping down as creative direc-
tor and executive vice president.In an internal announcement, chief executive
offi cer Jim Seuss said Thompson “made a personal decision to step back from Cole Haan in his full-time role to return to California. He will continue to work with me and our teams on a consulting basis, ensur-ing a strong and successful business and brand.”
Thompson, who was not available for comment, has been preparing to create a softer, more luxuri-ous Cole Haan by offering items such as sheared mink coats and a line of luxury men’s shoes. For fall, Thompson and his team revived a woven leather technique employed in earlier years by the 79-year-old company for a collection of higher-priced women’s shoes.
The Cole Haan team has also been working on revamping stores to complement its updated aesthetic, especially in outerwear, which is a bur-geoning category for the brand.
No successor to Thompson was named. The company said it would make the transition to a new reporting structure after Thompson begins consult-ing in July from Los Angeles. He will maintain his full-time position through the end of June.
Thompson joined the Yarmouth, Maine, acces-sories and outerwear fi rm in 1999 after working at Nike, Cole Haan’s parent, as corporate vice presi-dent and global creative director.
Seuss joined the fi rm in February 2006, re-placing Matt Rubel, who left to join Payless ShoeSource as ceo.
Thompson, who has a background in architec-ture, also had a mission to incorporate the tech-nologies of Nike into dress shoes. Last fall, Cole Haan introduced the Dress Air collection, a line of high heels with high-tech cushions in the sole.
“We’re taking two worlds that don’t traditional-ly go together — athletics and fashion — and we’re ramping them together,” Thompson said when the line was launched.
Oprah Winfrey lauded the collection on her television show last November.
Thompson Exiting Cole Haan
“Most brand owners have really tried to look for more cooperative solutions rather than fi ling lawsuit after lawsuit.”— Travis Johnson,
The International AntiCounterfeiting Coalition
Gordon Thompson
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WWD.COM3WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 1, 2007
All About Kate
LONDON — “I’ve got two daughters now,” joked Philip Green as he guided both a visibly nervous Kate Moss and his real daughter, Chloe, up the escalators for the launch preview of the Kate Moss Topshop collection at the retailer’s Oxford Street fl agship on Monday night.
Crowds were buzzing six-deep around the block outside, while inside Moss — clad in a scarlet maxi dress of her own design — prepared to make her debut. The store’s main window had been made to look like a stage, fi lled with mannequins displaying the line’s clothes. Moss took to the stage 10 minutes before the doors opened to strike a pose as the fl ashbulb frenzy ensued. But she didn’t stay long — a curtain failed to open completely, and Moss rapidly fl ed the bedlam to the relative quiet of the store.
Excitement had already been building at the prelaunch cocktail, where guests including Lily Cole, Bella Freud, Sadie Frost and Peaches Geldof swarmed around the collection, grappling for order forms and searching for a duplicate of Moss’ maxi design. “Look, look. They’ve got this in red, too,” said Freud, hold-ing up a blue jersey dress to friends.
“I want the yellow shirt and the waistcoat dress. I’m just trying to get my head ’round it all,” said Cole. And would she be venturing into fashion design herself anytime soon? “No, no. I think I’m going to leave Kate to conquer that fi eld,” she laughed.
Today, crowds are due to gather once more at the store for the offi cial launch, where doors will open at 7 a.m.
— Lucie Greene
DATE WITH POIRET: While some major fashion houses are keeping mum about their guests at next week’s Costume Institute benefi t, Yves Saint Laurent creative director Stefano Pilati’s date for the night will be Julianne Moore. The actress has been friends with the designer for a while and is, of course, expected to wear a dress from his much-praised fall collection to the Metropolitan Museum of Art on Monday.
MAKE MINE A STELLA: Stella McCartney plans to do a trunk show with a twist — so to speak — later this week at Bergdorf Goodman. The ever-cheeky designer will be infusing the show with an English pub vibe, serving up Guinness and inviting her guests to play foosball in between fi ttings. “The Yankee in me is
looking forward to coming to the city and having some fun,” said McCartney. “Bergdorf Goodman bought my fi rst collection when I left college and has supported us ever since.” The show, which will take place Thursday and Friday, will be hosted by Liv Tyler, Jessica Seinfeld and Helena Christensen. Sources say Tyler’s husband’s band, Arckid, will play. On Friday, McCartney will host a private dinner for friends, and on Monday she’s headed over to the Met’s Costume Institute Ball.
SWEET TOOTH: Ever wonder what goes into a “Falling in Love” pie? How about one dubbed the “I Hate My Husband” dish or the tongue-twisting “Pregnant, Miserable, Self-Pitying Loser” pie? More than 350 guests found out Sunday at the New York screening of “Waitress,” the fi nal fi lm by the late Adrienne Shelly, which
stars Keri Russell as a waitress with a penchant (and wonderfully mouthwatering talent) for baking pies to fi t every sort of occasion and mood. Post-screening, moviegoers — and members of the cast including Russell, Cheryl Hines, Nathan Fillion, Lew Temple, Eddie Jemison and Jeremy Sisto — were treated to some tasty eats themselves, at Danny Meyer’s neighboring Shake Shack in Madison Square Park. Interview’s Ingrid Sischy, whose magazine was cosponsoring the event with DKNY, played the ever-gracious host, sending trays of food to guests where needed. Quipped Donna Karan, who was also there,
to the editor in chief: “Oh, you are such a mother.” But there was another mère in attendance who
caught Karan by kismet-ridden surprise: the mother of Andrew Ostroy, Shelly’s widower — it turns out her husband used to chauffeur the designer around back in her old Anne Klein days.
Fashion Scoops
NEW YORK — Second-quarter profi ts at Alberto-Culver Co. fell 60 percent from the same period last year, when Sally Beauty was still part of the fi rm and revenues were lifted by the January 2006 launch of the Nexxus hair care brand in the mass market.
Net earnings for the second quarter ended March 31 were $22.6 million, or 23 cents a diluted share, compared with $56.9 mil-lion, or 61 cents a diluted share, last year.
Earnings from discontinued operations — specifically, Sally Beauty and Beauty Systems Group, which Alberto-Culver spun off in November — were $797,000, from $42.1
million in the second quarter last year. Earnings from continuing operations, however, jumped 47.3 percent, to $21.8 million from $14.8 million in the year-ago period.
Second-quarter net sales rose 4.8 percent, to $383.4 million from $365.7 million in the prior year.
“We were extremely pleased with our performance in the second quarter,” the fi rm’s president and chief executive offi cer, James Marino, said during a conference call with analysts Monday, “and we think there’s a great future ahead for this business.”
He credited the TRESemmé hair care brand with driving second-quarter perfor-mance and added that Nexxus had a strong quarter.
“The sky is the limit on TRESemmé,” said Marino. “It’s a great brand [and] it’s had a huge impact — and has been driving our business.
“With Nexxus, this was our best quarter since the [mass market] launch,” Marino added. He acknowledged that “our margin [experienced] a decline versus the [Nexxus] launch quarter of last year,” but “we exceeded our expectations for Nexxus in the sec-ond quarter [of fi scal 2007].”
Sales of Nexxus reached $100 million last year, Marino noted, adding, “We’re hoping we can exceed last year’s volume.”
Net earnings for the six months ended March 31 were $16.7 million, compared with $109 million a year ago, and sales for the same period were $734.5 million, up 8.4 per-cent from $677.6 million a year ago.
— Matthew W. Evans
BEAUTY BEAT
The Women’s National Basketball Association is getting an on-court fash-ion makeover as the league begins its 11th season today.
Adidas, which obtained the WNBA uniform license when it acquired Reebok last year, is making a player-friendly design featuring jerseys that can be tucked in and have a racer-back cut.
“The reasoning in redesigning the uniform was twofold,” said Christopher Arena, vice president of apparel, sporting goods and basket-ball partnerships for the WNBA and the NBA. “First, because we have a new partner in Adidas, and second, because it’s a fresh way to kick off the WNBA’s second decade and 11th season.”
Adidas is the third outfi tter since the inception of the league, which has grown to 13 teams from eight that play a season lasting from May through August. Champion outfi tted the brand until 2002, when Reebok took over. Adidas assumed Reebok’s professional basketball licenses when it bought the company, and had created new uniforms for the NBA last year, but the timing of the WNBA season delayed the women’s redesign, which took almost two years.
The players’ input was sought in the uniform revamp, Arena said. Their major request was for tucked-in jerseys, which is the biggest change. The silhouette is also more feminine, with thinner straps in the back that mir-ror the racer back of a sports bra.
The design drew on two inspirations: Native American tribes and super-heroes. The tribal concept called for taking an element from each logo and repeating it throughout the uniform. For example, the Connecticut Sun uni-form has an outline of a sun, and the Chicago Sky features an abstract ren-dering of a skyline. The superhero idea used piping to create a cape effect.
“The WNBA players are people looked up to by kids,” said Jenny Lons Cohane, senior product manager for women’s apparel at Adidas. “They are literally superheroes and we wanted to give them capes.”
The replica jerseys wholesale for $22.50 and are available at wnba.com, the NBA store on Manhattan’s Fifth Avenue, and the WNBA team shops. Adidas declined to project volume.
— Whitney Beckett
New Adidas Uniforms for the WNBA Alberto-Culver Net Slides in Second Qtr.
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Keri Russell in Helen Wang and Donna Karan.
The mob scene.
Moss strikes a pose in the window.Moss strikes a pose in the window.
By Amanda Kaiser
MILAN — When Fendi stages a fashion show on the Great Wall of China this fall, it will be a watershed moment for the country — a dry run of sorts before the entire world descends on Beijing for the Olympics in 2008.
But the show isn’t just a milestone for China; it also is one for Fendi. The company has had a turbulent past: feuding sisters, a multibillion-dollar bidding war and nearly losing its ready-to-wear designer, Karl Lagerfeld. But fashion’s bellwethers, be they balance sheets or runway reviews, indicate Fendi is fi rmly moving into a much more stable and profi table era.
This year, the fashion house, owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, will roll out a long-awaited fra-grance and open stores in new markets from Turkey to Qatar. Fendi is also mulling forays into fi ne jewelry and hotels and bolstering its Web site to provide better links to e-commerce partners like Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and Net-a-porter.
“It’s a very positive moment. Whatever is happen-ing is happening with a lot of passion,” Fendi chief executive Michael Burke told WWD in an interview at the company’s bustling showroom. “That’s what really makes me feel so confi dent about Fendi becoming what [LVMH chairman Bernard Arnault] predicted it would become, because it’s not laborious. It’s happening in an organic way, a natural way.”
Fendi’s numbers indicate the fi nancial health of the company is improving. Burke said sales last year came in at roughly 300 million euros ($378 million), would grow at a “substantial double-digit” rate for the current year and were on track to meet LVMH’s original goal of hitting 500 million euros ($664 million) by 2008. Burke said Fendi wanted to grow by an average of 20 percent to 25 percent each year for the next fi ve years.
Fendi broke even on an operating level in 2005, six years after LVMH initially invested in the company, and the Italian fashion house is “more than halfway” to meeting its goal of a 20 percent operating margin, Burke said. Those results stand out because multibrand groups have had a mixed track record turning around acquisi-tions. Gucci Group’s Yves Saint Laurent is still in the red and Prada stumbled with Jil Sander and Helmut Lang before ultimately selling both brands.
Admittedly, LVMH will need to wait awhile before getting a return from the more than 1 billion euros it spent to buy Fendi. In 1999, LVMH and its former part-ner Prada famously teamed up to outbid Gucci and buy 51 percent of Fendi at multiples many considered exor-bitant. The deal exemplifi ed the Nineties luxury M&A boom at its peak.
“I think we paid the right price at the right time for a unique asset. How many Fendis are there?” asked Burke, a loyal LVMH executive who racked up years of experience at Louis Vuitton and Dior before joining Fendi. “It was the absolute right decision. With what has happened over the last three years, we’ve clearly dem-onstrated that the investment was a good investment.”
Burke attributed much of Fendi’s fi nancial success to Arnault’s ability to be an “enlightened shareholder.” The French tycoon has been able to see beyond the numbers and give Fendi the time it needed to grow, Burke said.
“In our industry, when you are under time pressures on certain issues, you make the wrong decisions,” he said.
Balance sheets obtained by WWD also show fi nan-cial progress for the company. Fendi Srl, the company comprising only its Italian operations, swung into the black in 2005. It posted a net profi t of 12.5 million euros ($15.25 million) after narrowing its losses over the past few years.
Still, it’s been a bumpy journey for Fendi, which has accumulated a string of losses and digested a series of management changes. After LVMH bought Prada’s Fendi stake in 2001, Prada chief Patrizio Bertelli ex-ited the scene and Giancarlo di Risio, now the ceo at Versace, led the company for less than two years before LVMH tapped Burke as ceo in 2003. Burke, an Arnault protégé, had a long to-do list when he arrived, namely cleaning up Fendi’s disorganized production and dis-tribution chains and fi elding a cacophony of viewpoints from Fendi family members and Lagerfeld.
In fact, keeping Lagerfeld on board proved to be one of the more daunting tasks Burke has faced thus far. “It almost came to that point…and we know the rest of the story,” the ceo said.
In 2004, the designer publicly aired his grievances about a revolving door of managers at Fendi, disorga-nization within the company and shortcomings in the design department. Burke said he worked hard to meet Lagerfeld’s needs as well as those of accessories and men’s wear designer Silvia Venturini Fendi. The ceo wanted to foster a closer collaboration between the two designers, who were working in separate studios and very often in different cities.
“I’ve listened to many of Karl’s frustrations. Karl was more vocal about them than Silvia,” Burke laughed. “But Silvia was very, very clear about them in a less vocal way, and I tried to address all of them.”
The measures included setting up a proper design studio in Rome as part of Fendi’s new headquarters, which was completed in 2005. Prior to that, there was a disjointed network of Fendi offi ces round Rome. Burke also stressed the importance of giving Lagerfeld and Fendi the power to hire younger apprentices and lend-
ing them moral support and a sounding board for their concerns.
Since then, Burke said Lagerfeld’s and Fendi’s work-ing relationship has improved enormously and the col-lections prove it. The ceo noted a “crescendo” building from Fendi’s spring 2006 season on through fall 2007’s offerings of ultraluxurious furs, oversize belts and var-ied handbag offering.
“It’s night and day. Before, there was respect, but a tremendous amount of distance,” said Burke, who re-peatedly calls both designers geniuses. Silvia Fendi said she and the rest of the design team felt newly energized in their new studio.
“There is a more interesting creative buzz because [Lagerfeld] knows what I’m doing and I know what he is doing. We are really working together now,” she said. “When Karl is [in Rome], it’s very easy because we share the same table, but otherwise I go to Paris very often or meet him wherever he is.…Before, we didn’t see each other as often.”
Burke declined to talk specifi cs on Lagerfeld’s con-tract, which was renewed in 2005. But he made it clear the German designer would always be welcome at
“It’s a very positive moment. Whatever is happening is happening with a lot of passion. ”
— Michael Burke, Fendi
4
Fendi’s Next Phase: Scent, More StWWD, TUESDAY, MAY 1, 2007
WWD.COM5
ores and the Great Wall
Fendi. “Eternity, as far as I am concerned,” he said of the length of Lagerfeld’s tenure. “It’s as long as he wants to….If [Karl] wakes up one morning and he doesn’t feel like he wants to do it anymore, that’s when he’ll stop.”
In the meantime, Lagerfeld is helping Fendi snag some major orders. Bergdorf Goodman picked up the rtw business for the spring 2006 season. It has since set up a dedicated Fendi corner on the second fl oor of the store. Neiman Marcus is also carrying Fendi apparel.
“Our enthusiasm began with that spring 2006 runway, when we saw a marked change,” Bergdorf Goodman president Jim Gold said. “You [could] tell that Karl Lagerfeld was putting much more time and energy into the collection. Before, there was such an emphasis on furs; now, there’s more of a mix.”
And despite the logistical challenge of managing two creative minds rather than just one, Burke said he be-lieved the team approach was the right one for Fendi.
“These houses are so complex now. The market is so global and we have to be profi cient in so many different categories, sometimes at different price points also,” he said. “It’s becoming more and more diffi cult for one in-dividual to be able to handle one brand.”
Unsurprisingly, Burke doesn’t take issue with design-ers managing more than one brand, as Karl Lagerfeld does with Chanel, Fendi and his own label. Word has it this was a sticking point for former Fendi ceo Di Risio, who wanted a designer wholly dedicated to Fendi. Di Risio declined to comment on his tenure at the brand.
“If it were [Lagerfeld’s] second priority, I don’t think he would have been involved in the product develop-ment of the perfume and he would not have conceived
the entire concept. He would not have conceived of the ad campaign and he would not have shot the ad cam-paign and he would not be very involved in the upcom-ing launch,” Burke stressed.
As for that fragrance, which will be presented to the trade in June and hit stores in September, details are scarce. The designer shot the ad campaign on location in Rome. Burke said Venturini Fendi and Lagerfeld worked together on the perfume’s concept, bottle and packag-ing. It will be the fi rst Fendi fragrance produced through LVMH’s new perfume subsidiary since Fendi ended its licensing pact with Gucci Group’s YSL Beauté.
Burke said the company would be extremely cautious and selective about other product and brand extensions because he still sees plenty of untapped potential in rtw and accessories, especially footwear. That said, he said he thought a move into fi ne jewelry would be a logical and strategic step for the brand. He said he hoped that project would get under way next year.
Fendi’s fi rst hotel, most likely with a spa, could also materialize in the next few years. Burke said he was ini-tially hesitant about the idea, but developers and hotel operators were “aggressively courting” the brand and
he had since warmed to the concept. Such a move would follow Bulgari, Giorgio Armani, Missoni and other luxury
brands’ forays into hospitality.“It could be in a European city,
it could be in the Middle East, it could be in the Caribbean. These are all places we’ve looked at,” the ceo said.
But Burke stressed the core apparel and accessories busi-nesses were the most imminent priorities at Fendi. The compa-ny will open 18 stores and cor-ners this year, including loca-tions in Geneva, Istanbul, Doha
in Qatar and several Chinese cites. It is also continu-ing to renovate existing stores to its lighter and airier Palazzo concept. This year, Fendi will tackle its store on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills, as well as the Paris and London fl agships.
The ceo said another priority was China, where busi-ness is booming. “It’s doubling every year,” he said. “It reached break-even in 2005 and profi tability in 2006.”
Given those results, it’s not surprising Fendi wants to capitalize on its momentum in China with the Great Wall event. But it’s not just about business or brand awareness for Burke, whose periodic tangents about Bertolt Brecht and Chinese dynasties give him an aca-demic air rare in ceo’s.
“I think being able to have a Karl Lagerfeld Fendi fash-ion show on the wall is a symbolic gesture, I think, of open-ness, a meeting of cultures through fashion,” he said.
MILAN — One big design studio, one global vision.For Silvia Venturini Fendi, the open space inside
Fendi’s seven-story palazzo in Rome has boosted the brand’s creative vibe since it was inaugurated in 2005.
The brand, stressed Fendi, has steadily benefi ted from the greater proximity for the staffs of the vari-ous product categories and from a more harmoni-ous relationship with Karl Lagerfeld, Fendi’s ready-to-wear director for more than 40 years.
“Before the fur [department] and the footwear were in separate rooms, while now there’s a liai-son between everything and this has really helped develop a unique train of thought and vision,” said Fendi, who was appointed brand accessories di-rector in 1994. She is also men’s wear director and masterminded the hit Baguette bag in 1997.
Take the fall collection, where Lagerfeld’s use of technology, design and construction for Fendi’s furs found an ideal partner in the Voodoo bag, a struc-tured style with wool dreadlocks, spangles and lay-ers of macro sequins that is the brand’s best-selling style for fall.
The design offi ces have also helped fuel growing categories such as footwear, whose sales account for 10 percent of revenues, with the goal of doubling the fi gure over the next two years.
During the past couple of years, footwear sales have ballooned from 55,000 pairs in 2005 to 118,000 for fall 2007.
Footwear prices range from $330 at retail for fabric and mirror ballerina fl ats to $1,140 for leather boots with beaver fur. Bags and small leather goods account for 55 percent of sales; rtw and fur for 25 percent; foot-wear 10 percent, and other accessories, 10 percent.
To implement the footwear division, Fendi tapped renowned designer Ernesto Esposito to consult on the collections and has hired two young designers for the footwear team. “Esposito is very technical, which is great when you’re making good-looking shoes that are also comfortable,” said Fendi.
Fendi, in fact, challenges her team to deliver comfortable edginess like the one injected into spring’s Fifties-derived platform with latex straps. Of the 150-style shoe collection, half are carried over each season, especially the sneakers.
Generally speaking, forging a new collection is an unconventional process at Fendi. “We don’t work with preset themes or with trend charts, but we all toss ideas around, we communicate and express a precise vision,” said Fendi. “I have a very free de-sign approach based on research. We don’t meet with the marketing division, for example.”
This allows her to press hard for innovation. “I never give up good quality, but in general I don’t get nostalgic for one material because I like to change,” said Fendi. “That said, I do have a weak spot for suede and napa.”
Fendi also likes to play with poor-rich textures, as in plastic, crocodile or leather combinations.
“We work really hard, but we have so much fun because we love what we do,” said Fendi. “That’s what drives you.”
— Alessandra Ilari
An Open EraLooks for fall
at the Fendi design studio.
Leather goods make up the majority of sales.
Top: A best-selling Fendi bag. Above: A ballerina fl at, a top-selling shoe and the Voodoo bag.
WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 1, 2007
6 WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 1, 2007
From left: Nick and Derek in Parballe’s T-shirts and Diesel’s jeans, all in cotton; Neely in Walter’s silk dress, Black Chandelier leggings, Chanel necklace and Tarina Tarantino bracelets; Kianna in a cotton and silk dress from Jill by Jill Stuart, Salviati necklace and Jimmy Choo shoes; Jamie in Nanette Lepore’s acetate and rayon dress, Chanel bracelet and Bruno Frisoni shoes.
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Indie FrocksINDIO, Calif. — When Tilly and the Wall took to the stage Friday night at the Coachella Valley Music and Arts Festival, their fans were almost as identifi able as the Omaha band itself. Tilly’s three female members — Neely Jenkins, Kianna Alarid and Jamie Pressnall — were decked out in loads of bright spandex and silver sequins; the hordes of groupies were outfi tted in vintage formal dresses chopped above the knee, a look Alarid has popularized over the past two years during the world tour of the folk-meets-pop band. “We have all superevolved over the years,” says Alarid, 28, the lead singer, who also plays bass guitar, not to mention the shakers, tambourine and recorder. “We each have our own ideas of what we like for the stage.” These days, Alarid’s look includes shiny spandex catsuits with ruffl ed sleeves, as well as sleeker, less poufy frocks.
In fact, since the band formed in 2001, its stage style has been just as important as the music itself. “It’s a full package,” says Pressnall, 31, whose tap dancing serves as the band’s percussion. (Her husband, Derek Pressnall, 27, plays guitar and sings for Tilly.) “When we fi rst started, audiences didn’t care as much what indie bands wore, but we’ve always been interested — obsessed, even — with dressing up.” For Pressnall, that means a combination of dance-inspired pieces that must breathe and keep her cool, yet still have a major dose of punkish attitude. Recently, she’s abandoned her signature tutus for Eighties-style rompers, which she likes to pair with shiny leggings, many of which are designed by Peggy Noland, based in Kansas City, Mo. The designer and boutique owner makes patterned rompers and spandex leggings for Pressnall, as well as catsuits for Alarid.
Omaha may not be known as a fashion capital, yet Pressnall says the city’s dearth of chic boutiques has actually inspired a style revolution among local music types. “You have to fi ght for your own sense of style, and you don’t really have anywhere to buy clothes except for thrift stores,” says Pressnall, “so you just create it yourself, which has led to a ton of crazy style in Omaha.”
While they’re all fashion junkies, not every member of Tilly and the Wall is a so-called crazy dresser. In fact, the clothes of keyboardist Nick White, 25, almost look as if they belong to the boy next door, albeit one with a penchant for a lot of jewelry. And vocalist Jenkins, 32, who also plays the bass, shakers and bells, considers herself the most conservative of the group. Describing her style as “more classic,” she prefers to wear simple tops and jeans. “But for big shows, I will bust out with a sparkly top,” she says.
Still, like most trendsetters, Tilly and the Wall aims to keep several steps ahead of the mainstream. Says Alarid, “When I start to see something everywhere, I know it’s time for something new.”
— Marcy Medina
8 WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 1, 2007
Desert FlowersINDIO, Calif. — The Coachella music festival featured more than 100 hot acts, including Björk, the Red Hot Chili Peppers and Amy Winehouse, but visitors still managed to steal plenty of attention with their freewheeling, fashion-loving style. As steamy temperatures topped the 100-degree mark, key looks were short, shorter and shortest
— often with a Lolita twist, thanks to the accessory du jour: heart-shape sunglasses.
Even Scarlett Johansson beat the desert heat. For her surprise performance of “Just Like Honey” with The Jesus and
Mary Chain Friday night, she opted for a panama hat and a little cropped vintage dress.
— Monica Schweiger
WWD.COM9WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 1, 2007
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Adorn MeNEW YORK — The spring 2008 bridal shows offered plenty of frilly
embellishment, from feathers and chiffon ruffl es to rosettes and little satin bows.
Elizabeth Fillmore
Pat Kerr
Anne Barge
Vineyard Collection
WWD.COM11WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 1, 2007
Textile & Trade Report
Globe-trottersLast week’s Direction and Printsource textile shows featured de-
signs with strong tribal and ethnic infl uences that outshone pa-rochial prints. In the textile industry’s own little melting pot, design-ers took inspiration from all corners of the globe. Printfresh, a new Direction exhibitor from Philadelphia, showed bright, multicultural prints on cotton jersey. “Anything with a Scandinavian-meets-African feel has done really well for us,” said Amy Eldon, creative director of the fi rm. “Textiles with strong hand elements like pronounced brush strokes, scribbles and irregular patterns are doing well also.” Marilyn Kern showed an appealing set of hand-painted silk georgette pieces. “There are so many trends happening at Direction, designers can re-ally put their own spin on anything,” she said. “Here, we’ve pulled in the metallic treatment from Europe and applied it to a tribal motif.”
At Printsource, Daniel Sager presented a stunning array of silk, hand-painted Moroccan inspired geo-fl orals. “People are really re-sponding to color this season and borders are wildly popular,” he said. Others at Printsource offered prints that mimicked hand techniques. At Tag Sale Textiles, Wendy Greenberg showed a bordered wool blend print with an irregular diamond pattern alongside traditional batik prints and international vintage pieces. At the end of the day, a trip through the twin exhibitions at Manhattan’s Hotel Pennsylvania amounted to a trip around the world.
— Court Williams
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Wool and polyester from Tag Sale Textiles at Printsource.
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Tim Gunn had a night to remember Monday at the 59th Annual Parsons Fashion Benefit and Fashion Show at the Grand Hyatt
New York.The “Project Runway” television personality learned that his
new employer, Liz Claiborne Inc., established a $350,000 scholar-ship in his name at Parsons The New School for Design, and that Parsons, his old employer, named him honorary chair of fashion design. Gunn joined Claiborne this year in the new post of chief creative offi cer after almost 25 years at Parsons, where he most re-cently had been chair of fashion design.
“In one part the honorary title is an acknowledgment of our debt to [Gunn], and the other part it is anticipating maintaining a close relationship with him in the future,” said Tim Marshall, dean of Parsons. “It’s also an acknowledgement that our loss was [Claiborne’s] gain.”
Claiborne set up the onetime endowment with provisions that Gunn work with Parsons to defi ne how the money will be allocated. Company chief executive offi cer William L. McComb said he hoped the gift would demonstrate Claiborne’s endorsement of Gunn’s con-tinued involvement with the school, as well as its belief in Parson’s role in educating talent for the industry. Parsons estimates that 70 percent of the design talent on Seventh Avenue has been educated at Parsons.
Gunn spent most of his 24-year career at Parsons as associate dean of the school. He was appointed chair of the fashion design program in 2000, responsible for remaking Parsons’ curriculum for the 21st century. In 2004, Gunn began appearing as the taskmaster on Bravo’s “Project Runway.”
Gunn, whose hiring was announced three months ago, started the fi rst week of March. He is going through “an intensive learning pro-gram modeled after what I put myself through,” said McComb, who arrived from Johnson & Johnson six months ago to take the top job at the apparel giant.
Not including Claiborne’s gift, Monday’s benefi t raised more than $3 million. Former president Bill Clinton made opening re-marks about the evening’s honoree, Susan D. Kronick, vice chair of Federated Department Stores Inc., who was introduced by Oscar de la Renta. Federated has led the fund-raising charge, according to Parsons. The event centered around a runway show featuring the best work of Parsons’ graduating fashion design students, and for the fi rst time, the school presented awards for both Womenswear and Menswear Designers of the Year.
More than 1,000 guests were on hand, including Federated chair-man, president and chief executive offi cer Terry Lundgren; Diane von Furstenberg; Donna Karan; Peter Som; Mark Badgley, and James Mischka.
— Whitney Beckett
By Holly Haber
Ward Parkway Center in Kansas City, Mo., was to reopen today, less than 48 hours after a Sunday afternoon shooting spree
left three people dead, including the gunman, and two others wounded.
The gunman was identifi ed Monday as David W. Logsdon, 51, an ex-Target security guard, who was said to be headed into his former workplace when a police offi cer shot and killed him.
The mall, located in southern Kansas City, is a moderate-price center with 46 stores, including anchors Dillard’s and Target. Within its 742,000 square feet are Claire’s, TJ Maxx, Old Navy, Lane Bryant, Bath & Body Works, Starbucks and Dick’s Sporting Goods, among others.
“By opening the center, we hope we can reestablish some sense of normalcy, ultimately helping the community, our customers, ten-ants and staff get through this diffi cult time and begin the healing process,” said John Kokinchak, senior vice president of property management at Developers Diversifi ed Realty, the Beachwood, Ohio-based fi rm that owns and operates the center.
Work crews spent Monday cleaning broken glass, boarding up windows and “bringing general order back to the shopping center,” he said. “Many of our tenants are offering their employees some type of counseling, and we as a developer and management com-pany are offering our employees the same.”
The mall was redeveloped in 2005 and 2006 with the addition of tenants such as Off Broadway Shoe Warehouse and PetSmart. Ward Parkway’s volume was not available because some tenants don’t re-port sales, said a spokeswoman for Developers Diversifi ed Realty.
The center was a scene of chaos Sunday when two people were killed in the parking lot. The gunman then walked into the mall and began fi ring randomly, shattering glass and scattering shoppers and sales associates. Police killed the suspect outside the entrance to Target in the mall’s common area.
Developers Diversifi ed Realty owns and manages more than 800 properties in 45 states, Puerto Rico and Brazil totaling 162 million square feet.
WWD.COM12 WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 1, 2007
A program described as “Project Runway: The College Years” has produced its fi rst graduate/winner.
The fi nal segment of Philadelphia University’s “Runway Challenge” Monday on Philadelphia NBC10’s “10! Show” crowned Alison Winters the winner. Winters, who for her fi nal challenge presented a sportswear collection that she designed for her senior project at Philadelphia University, triumphed over fellow seniors Dominique Asuncion, who showed children’s wear, and Pam Martin, who presented eve-ningwear. Winters’ prize is a trip for two to an international fashion capital, and she chose Paris. She will take Martin as her guest.
Clara Henry, director of Philadelphia University’s fash-ion design program, who has been coordinating and judging “Runway Challenge,” said her students had been dealing with even more rigorous circumstances than those created by “Project Runway, ’’ on which the competition was modeled.
“Most reality shows out there are sequestered so they con-centrate fully on a specifi c challenge,” Henry said. “These are senior fashion design students carrying a full load of classes. Many were working on top of all that. They are fully prepared to go out into the industry now.”
The show’s creators posted fl yers around the school solic-iting applications from seniors, about half of whom applied. Based on application samples, 10 contestants were chosen from among 50 or so applicants.
The weekly challenges ranged from turning recycled mate-rials from the Salvation Army or items from Home Depot into clothes to producing designs inspired by Philadelphia architecture.
Henry, the co-host of the “10! Show” and weekly guest judges, including “Project Runway” win-ner and Philadelphia University alum Jay McCarroll, made up the judges’ panel.
Winters wants to pursue a career in performance wear, sportswear or children’s wear, and is looking for a job after graduation to expand on her experience making custom corsets at Philadelphia’s Delicious Corsets.
— W.B.
Kansas City Mall Set to Reopen After Fatal Shootings on Sunday
NO BARBS HELD: At a Monday lunch sponsored by the American Society of Magazine Editors, Vanity Fair columnist Christopher Hitchens did what everyone seemed to expect, even hope, he would do: He insulted everyone in the room — many of whom made him a fi nalist for their Ellie award this year, some of whom dole out his paychecks. He compared the unanimous vote for ASME’s new offi cers to that of North Korea’s, and, asked about reaction to his arguing that women aren’t funny, replied that he’d heard from plenty of “humorless bitches.” (One ASME board member, who insisted she “loved” Hitchens’ talk, remarked afterward, “This humorless bitch has to get back to work.”) Onstage interviewer and Slate editor in chief Jacob Weisberg read selections from the Ellie-nominated profi le of Hitchens in The New Yorker, then asked him how his support of the Iraq war affected his relationship with Vanity Fair editor in chief Graydon Carter, a vocal opponent of it. “The fact that most of my comrades in the media can’t get [Iraq] right is not my fault,” Hitchens said. A lone audience member — perhaps two — clapped.
The habitually quotable Hitchens later glared out into the audience of editors and said, “Not one of you, I think, printed the Danish cartoon. Shame on all of you….Nobody lived up to the elementary responsibility of journalism.” Speaking generally about religious fundamentalism and the personal risk his new book, “God Is Not Great,” might pose, Hitchens said, “We all make a comfortable living out of the First Amendment, and give ourselves prizes every year for doing it. Well, you have to pay the First Amendment back [by fi ghting for it]….It’s not my living. It’s my life. I did not come to this country to be taught how to keep my mouth shut.” The British-born Hitchens also announced proudly that he had recently become an American citizen, saying, “I’ve been waiting to say this for weeks: ‘my fellow Americans.’”
Perhaps the most telling moment was when Hitchens recalled being asked to CNN’s New York studio to talk about atheism. Just before departing, he heard about “that fat slut who had died — I can’t remember her name.” Anna Nicole Smith, the crowd piped up. “Yes, that fat slut,” he repeated. “I thought, ‘Well, I’m not going to be on TV now. Should I still let them pay for me to come to New York? Yes.’” And will he still allow those First Amendment-complacent editors to anoint him tonight? It’s safe to say the answer is the same. — Irin Carmon
NEW GANG: As for that aforementioned vote for offi cers, the American Society of Magazine Editors reelected Glamour editor in chief Cynthia Leive president, and added six new editors to its board: Latina’s Betty Cortina, Self’s Lucy Danziger, AARP The Magazine’s Hugh Delehanty, Good Housekeeping’s Rosemary Ellis, Money’s Eric Schurenberg and Departures’ Richard David Story. Texas Monthly’s Evan Smith has stepped down as vice president, and Elle editor in chief Roberta Myers has been elected in his place. New York magazine’s Adam Moss will be secretary, and David Willey, editor in chief of Runner’s World, will be treasurer. — I.C.
NEW FACE: So you can pep up a dowager after all. The Wall Street Journal reported Monday that individually paid and total subscriptions are up, 4.5 percent and 0.6 percent, respectively, since the newspaper’s redesign in January. The Audit Bureau of Circulations March 2007 FAS-FAX statement, also released Monday, has individual subscriptions climbing 3.3 percent, although they did not achieve the 9.2 percent rise reported for the previous six-month period ended in September 2006. A Dow Jones spokesman said the latest ABC report marked three consecutive periods of growth, adding that “no one has the same track record.”
ABC shows The New York Times’ daily circulation down 1.9 percent and Tribune Co.’s Los Angeles Times’ falling 4.2 percent; the Chicago Tribune’s daily circulation declined 2.1 percent. Back in New York, News Corp.’s New York Post’s daily circulation jumped 7.6 percent, trumping the New York Daily News, which grew by 1.3 percent. — Amy Wicks
BRINGING BACK: Hearst Magazines and Hoffman Media, which publishes a magazine with Food Network personality Paula Deen, said Friday the companies had formed a joint venture to resurrect Victoria, a women’s title that focused on “romantic living.” Hearst published the magazine from 1987 to 2003 for women who, according to the company, “recognize the importance of beauty and manners and traditions in daily life.” This time, Victoria will be under the direction of Hoffman, which also publishes Southern Lady, Tea Time and Taste of the South. Hoffman will handle all editorial, advertising, production and distribution of the title from its Birmingham, Ala., headquarters; Hearst will contribute the Victoria trademark, copyright, the Web site URL, victoriamag.com, subscription database and access to historical content of both editorial and art. Victoria will publish bimonthly beginning with a November/December issue; Hoffman’s goal is to have a 250,000 rate base after two issues. — Stephanie D. Smith
MEMO PADLiz Claiborne Sponsors Tim Gunn Scholarship
‘Runway Challenge’ Crowns Winner
Alison Winters with models
wearing her designs.
WWD.COM13WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 1, 2007
NEW YORK — In the much lauded film “Waitress,” opening Wednesday, Keri Russell’s character, Jenna, a particularly talented baker, treats audiences to a visual orgy of her mouthwatering desserts, complete with cheeky names like “Falling in Love Chocolate Mousse Pie.” It’s ironic, then, to learn that her co-star, Nathan Fillion, doesn’t have much of a sweet tooth.
“We weren’t a big dessert family,” explains the Canadian actor. “There’s a story we all laugh about: We were having dinner, relatives over, and I was very young. Someone asked me if I would like any pie. And I said, ‘What’s pie?’”
He’s certainly familiar with the concoction now. In “Waitress,” written and directed by the late Adrienne Shelly, Fillion plays Dr. Pommater, new in town, who Jenna starts seeing when she becomes pregnant with her abusive husband Earl’s child. “What I love about this fi lm is it’s certainly not a woman’s piece. Initially I thought it was leaning towards pregnancy, motherhood, things that maybe I can’t relate to so well, but it turned out to be about people making decisions to try to be happy,” says Fillion.
The quirky romantic comedy might seem a departure for Fillion. He is perhaps best known for his science fi ction and thriller-esque work, particularly his projects with Joss Whedon such as “Serenity” and the cult TV series “Firefl y.” But the actor insists his earlier soap opera and comedy credits attest to his diverse tastes.
“There’s certainly something to be said for, ‘Well, today I get to blow up four magazines with this machine gun; today’s a spaceship day.’ There’s certainly some action and fun to be had there and that satisfi es the little boy in you,” admits Fillion. “But where I fi nd my satisfaction, my happiness, is in telling good stories.”
Born and raised in Edmonton, Alberta, Fillion is the son of two high school English teachers. As a boy, he was a comic book geek, meticulously cataloguing them on his own rotating rack.
His mother encouraged him to go out for high school musicals, an experience that led to local improv theater work and roles in two plays in Edmonton’s Fringe Festival. Fillion went on to study at the University of Alberta, with plans of becoming a high school drama and arts teacher. But four months shy of graduating, he landed a soap opera role and hasn’t looked back since. Luckily so.
“I nearly failed one class and it was bringing down my GPA. I was going to have to retake that course, maybe blow my summer, and I thought, ‘What am I gonna do?’” he recalls. “The phone rings. Three weeks later I’m living in New York City. Problem solved.”
— Vanessa Lawrence
World Wide WebThe “Spider-Man” trilogy may provide a cinematic ode to New York City, but the highly anticipated release of its third installment has sent its young starlet, Kirsten Dunst, on a world tour, with stops in Paris, Madrid, London, Rome and Tokyo. Along the way, Dunst has kept her eager followers guessing on the fashion front, choosing everything from feminine
bow embellishments to sexy gold lace, and hemlines from here to there. But she has proven loyal to hot designing duo Kate and Laura Mulleavy of Rodarte, whose sophisticated looks she chose three times.
“Kirsten’s free spirit, intelligence and charm bring life to our clothes, ideas and approach,” says Laura. “She is undeniably cool and extremely genuine.” Amazing race, indeed.
Baker’s Treat
Isaac Mizrahi makes his debut at New York’s Metropolitan Opera on Wednesday night. He’s not singing, of course
— although that might not surprise fans of the polymathic fashion designer. Instead, his costumes will grace the Lincoln Center stage for the new production of “Orfeo ed Euridice,” directed by his friend, choreographer Mark Morris.
The occasion marks the Met debut of Morris, as well, and even though he’s been collaborating with Mizrahi on productions since 1992, the designer was not a shoo-in. “I sort of threatened him and said if I didn’t do the costumes, I would be really upset because I love that opera so much,” says Mizrahi, who has taken a break from casting models for a new Target campaign to chat in the glass-walled conference room of his lofted Hell’s Kitchen offi ce space. “I’ve been thinking about this opera my whole life.”
He’s not joking. “Actually, I was hoping to design the set, as well,” he continues. “So I made this maquette that he looked at, and it was kind of like a tragic thing — he really didn’t like it.”
As it turned out, Morris got over that and a year later tapped Mizrahi to work on the Christoph Willibald Gluck opera. Traditionally minded operaphiles, however, might be shocked by what they will see in this latest staging of the 18th-century piece: Working from Allen Moyer’s minimalist set — a monolithic series of curved
bleachers — Mizrahi conceived of dressing the 100-strong chorus as historical fi gures from Joan of Arc to Charlie Chaplin. “From the minute I saw the maquette for this set, I thought of the trial of Orpheus,” explains Mizrahi. “I thought it would be so wonderful if the entire of history were watching the moment of Orpheus’ triumph over Hell.”
As for the protagonist, “he is a lonely, melancholy singer, and somehow, I wanted to evoke a country-western
thing about it,” says the designer. Euridice, meanwhile, wears a white shroud until the fi nal moments, when she emerges from her cocoon-like garments.
Surprisingly for a designer who is known for his use of shocking hues, Mizrahi refrained from using any, in this case, until the very end. “I feel that the music says that — don’t do any color until the end of Act 3,” he says. “It’s somehow more orgasmic than if you do the whole show with a ton of color.”
Despite four months of daily fi ttings for the nearly 200 costumes and insomnia from worrying about the huge scale of the opera house, Mizrahi has been enjoying himself. Not to mention that he was simultaneously recovering from a car accident on Jan. 25 and spent the fi rst weeks confi ned to a wheelchair. “It was a really, really good thing to be doing,” says the designer, who is now up and about and nearly back to his normal exuberant energy levels.
“It was weirdly parallel, thinking about the journey of Orpheus and my journey in my wheelchair through the labyrinth of the Met.”
— Elisa Lipsky-Karasz
SOAP OPERA
Nathan Fillion
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SY O
F M
ETRO
POLI
TAN
OPER
A/IS
AAC
MIZ
RAHI
Isaac Mizrahi’s sketch of Euridice.
…and again in Madrid.
Kirsten Dunst in
Rodarte in Paris…
…and again in London.
In Prada
in Rome.
In Christian Lacroix Couture in Tokyo…
14 WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 1, 2007
WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS
For more career opportunities log on to fashioncareers.com. Call 1.800.423.3314 or e-mail [email protected] to advertise.
recruitment
business servicescareersLeverage the power of WWD among industry professionals to reach both active and passive job seekers.
opportunities
vendorsreal estate
Call 800-423-3314 or e-mail fpclassifi [email protected] to advertise.
Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. No Lot Too Big or Too Small.
Call CLOTHES-OUT:(937) 898-2975
Showrooms & LoftsBWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS
Great ’New’ Office Space AvailADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500
Search For Space In Garment CenterShowroom/Office/Retail - no fee
www.midcomre.comOr Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100
Broadway Garment CenterNICE OFFICE + SHOWROOM
AVAILABLE TO SHAREPlease Call Joan @ 917-907-1667
Sewing ContractorMidtown Contractor Able to Produce:
WOVENS •2,500 Jackets per week •4,000-5,000 Pants per week •5,500 Skirts per weekKNITS •5,000 - 6,000 Knit Tops & other styles per week
Call John @ 212-563-3015
PATTERN/SAMPLESReliable. High quality. Low cost. Fastwork. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808
PATTERNS, SAMPLES,PRODUCTIONS
All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service.Call Sherry 212-719-0622.
PATTERNS, SAMPLES,PRODUCTIONS
Full service shop to the trade.Fine fast work. 212-869-2699.
The Divine TribeOne-stop Leather Goods shop! We havethe ability to source & develop a wide va-riety of skins, as well as manufactureleather bags, belts, sandals, etc. Exoticskins and hand-work capabilities available.
Please call 212.941.5006.
#1 Fashion Resume ExpertStaff Thru Executive-Wholesale/Retail
Free Evaluation - Lifetime UpdatesGILBERT CAREER RESUMES
(800)967-3846 amex/mc/visafashionresumes.com
STUNT SPORTSWEAREstablished Blouse Company seeks
Designer/Merchandiserwith min 5 years exp and in depthknowledge of woven fabrics.Photoshop & Illustrator a must.
Sales ExecutiveShould be self-motivated with est’dmajor accounts. Email/ fax resume:
ALLOCATORS"On The Marks" has 2 immediate
direct- hire positions for a Sr. Allocatorand an Allocator. Sr Allocator MUST
HAVE min 4 years ALLOCATOR exp.Store dist & activity, sales analysis,
ADVANCED excel, i.e.. Lookups, pivottables charts & graphs-- Retail link aplus. To 60K Allocator req. 2 yrs. Min
bkrnd and excellent excel. to 50KEmail resume to: [email protected]
or fax to: 212-532-6892
ASST/ASSOC. DESIGNERLeading Junior Import Co. specializing intrendy wovens, seeks an Asst/Assoc. De-signer. Candidates must be pro-active.Illustrator is a must.
Email resume to:[email protected]
ASST DESIGNER Leading better separates co seeks a tech-nical, organized, motivated, accurate, fastpaced go-getter. Must have 2 yrs exp work-ing w/China, drawing skills, spec, sketch,teck packs & emb layouts. Great benefits.
Please fax resume to:(212) 302-3872 - ATTN: Natasha
BILLING/SHIPPINGBusy, well-known, designer companyseeking highly organized & responsibleself starter for order entry, communicatew/factors, credit approvals, shipping docs,customer service & manage shipping flow.Apply only if you are a Quick Booksexpert with garment center experience!Excellent Salary & Growth opportunityfor the right candidate! Email resumeto: [email protected]
CONTROLLERGirls Sportswear Co. seeks experiencedController with 10+ years of experience.MBA /CPA preferred. Position respon-sible for the day to day accounting,cash management & Human Resources,as well as G/L, financial reporting,costing and budgeting. Must haveexperience with Letters of Credits.Fax resume and salary requirements
to: 212-967-4369.
Customer Service/Shipping ManagerEst’d UK co. with offices in New York,seeking individual responsible person forinput & maintaining customer orders.To liase with the warehouse & customerson deliveries, to create pick tickets &must have EDI/Excel & Access knowledge .Please send all CV Attention: Rhona
DESIGN
ASSISTANT DESIGNERLadies Branded & Private Label
QUALIFICATIONS:•Strong technical drawing skills•Knowledge of garment construction•Highly organized & detailed oriented•Excellent follow-up•Photoshop a plus•Minimum 2 years experience
RESPONSIBILITIES:•Tech-packs & garment specs•Assist Designers
E-mail resume & salary req’[email protected]
DESIGN ASSISTANTNYC Men’s/Boys’ Apparel
Seeking Photoshop/Illustrator and flatsketching proficinet individual for imple-ment designs, recoloring with directionsfrom Designer and to prepare detailedsample tech-packs. Fax or E-mail to: 212-947-7695 / [email protected]
Design
Asst. Design PositionFast-paced Women’s Sportswear Co.seeks an organized, detailed multi-taskerwith 2-3 years experience and excellentcomputer skills (proficient in Photoshop& Illustrator) to work on CAD projects.Duties include presentation boards,fabric & trim sourcing, follow-up on allsamples, and specing. Candidate musthave an eye for color & trends. Excel-lent communication skills and degreein Fashion design req’d. Please Fax orE-mail all resumes to Karen at:212-302-4193 / [email protected]
DESIGNER $50KSwim. Illus/& Photo. From Intimates Ok
15WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 1, 2007
recruitmentReach top-level decision-makers in retail and manufacturing in WWD Marketplace.
TEXTILE SALESLoro Piana, a leader in the manufacturing and distribution of the finestquality textiles, ready to wear and accessories has an outstanding oppor-tunity for a Salesperson to represent our collection in the US. Candidatesmust have a minimum of 3 years experience in luxury fabric sales.Responsibilities will include developing and maximizing the client base aswell as ensuring the highest level of customer service. Travel required.Must have excellent interpersonal, communication, and computer skills.
Please submit resume with salary requirements to:
Loro Piana711 Fifth Avenue, New York, N.Y. 10021
E-mail: [email protected]: (212) 652-136 8
DESIGNERS*Sr Designer $100-300K
Hang with Jill Stuart, Hanii Y,Anna Sui & Alice and Olivia
*Designer Young Contemporary $85K* Denim Girls Designer $80K* Graphic Designer-Tod/Girls $80-85K*CAD Designer [email protected] 212-947-3400
Designer-
SWEET ROMEODesigner wanted for our young contem-porary sweater/knitwear line. Applicantmust be familiar with better customerbase (Intermezzo/Coterie).
Fax or email resume to:212.279.5586/ [email protected]
DesignFast paced, high energy, growing
Apparel Company seeks:
MENS DESIGNERMinimum 3-5 yrs exp in Young Men’sCollection responsible for developingthe line from initial concept throughline development, clear understandingof technical, pattern & fit process.Proficient in Illustrator & Photoshop,must be a self-starter, exp working in afast paced environment, able to meetdeadlines, and adhere to design budgets.
Great opportunity for growth andexcellent benefit package.
E-mail or fax resume & salary req’s to:[email protected] or
(212) 827-3073 Attn: KP
DESIGNFast paced, high energy, growing
Women’s Apparel Co seeks:
CAD DESIGNERMin 4 - 5 yrs exp in Missy Sportswearincludes creating prints from boughtart, create/recolor wovens, and designgraphics for tee programs.
GRAPHIC ARTIST/CAD DESIGNER
Min 4 - 5 years exp in Missy Sportswearincludes creating graphics, pitchartwork, open screens, work withoversees factories and w/designer forart direction.Both positions must have experiencewith U4ia, Photoshop, and Illustrator.Must be a self-starter, exp working in afast paced environment, able to meetdeadlines, and able to multi-task.Great opportunity for growth andexcellent benefit package. E-mailresume: [email protected] orfax resume: 212 827 3073 Attn: BM
Design/Prod’n AsstSweaters/Cut & Sew Knits/Woven Im-porter seeks a dynamic person. Entrylevel position. Fax resume: 212-391-5800
DRAPERBetter Sportswear & Dress Co. seeks anexp’d. Draper with background in bothknits & wovens to create First muslins.Friendly work environment. Fax resumeto Human Resources at: 212-584-9931
DRAPERMajor eveningwear manufacturerseeks draper to work with designer tocreate muslin/first pattern in domesticsampleroom. Capable of working withsamplehands to create finishedgarments. Working knowledge ofproduction techniques. Please emailyour resume in confidence to:
Import Coord to $48K Current exp inletters of credit, shippings docs, payingvendors etc. Chinese/Eng or Spanish/Engbilingual. req’d. [email protected]
Prod’n Mgr $100-$125KCollection Runway Mkt Int’l. Young
Edgy Designer, Lot of EmbellishmentsFactories, costing, T&A
Prod’n Mgr $85-$90KDomestic Prod’n, Designer
Sportswear Dress CollectionDomestic Mfr, Vertical Retailer
Prod’n Mgr $80-$85KJeans, Denim, Washes
[email protected] 212-947-3400
Production ControlManager Assistant
Large sportswear importer/manufacturerseeks a pre-production assistant managerw/ extensive experience in all productioncontrol steps. Must have knowledge offabrics, trims, and logistics. Must befamiliar with all retail testing procedures.Responsible for creating P.O.’s and allfollow-up for multiple divisions. Or-ganizational and management skills arenecessary.Fax resume and salary requirements
to Mark Rubin at: (212) 444-6019
Production CoordinatorGrowing contemp. sportswear co. seeksmotivated individual w/ 3 yrs exp to workin fast paced environ. Exp in fabric, trimpurchasing, domestic prod. control, over-seas comm., ydg calculation & garmentcosting. Exp w/prod. database systemsand Excel req’d. Send resume to:
Production ManagerFast paced dynamic Int’l Apparel WSseeks a Prod. Mgr/Director. Must havethe ability to prioritize tasks, be de-tailed oriented and work within a teamenvironment. An understanding of thesales and merchandising dept a must.Strong computer skills Excel, Word,Outlook and most importantly strongcommunication with customers andfactories. Int’l business exp required.Minimum experience 10 years.
ProductionPatternmaker
ECI New YorkBetter womenswear manufacturerseeks individual with 3 years exp insportswear and dresses. Will beinvolved with garment development,spec development, pattern corrections &fittings. Need to be extremely organizedw/ good computer, verbal & written skills.
Fax or e-mail resume to:(212) 382-0237/ [email protected]
QA AssistantGreat Opportunity! Great Company!
Leading Intimate Apparel Mfg. seeksexperienced & highly organized QualityAssurance person to assist the VP ofQA on all daily activities. Duties in-clude: maintaining all inspection logs,running in-house processes, sendingproducts for testing and working onspecial projects. Will also asst prod devpersonnel on finished garment audits.Previous Quality experience mandatory.Strong follow-up and analytical skillsnecessary. Experience in Word, Exceland Outlook mandatory. Experiencewith Walmart, JCP & KMart a plus.Please FAX your resume to attention:B. Farrell 212- 842-4032 EOE
Sales AssistantBusy showroom needs individual withgood computer, people, and office skills.Opportunity for growth! E-mail to:[email protected]
or Fax to: 212-869-1525
SAMPLEMAKERHighly skilled sewer w/ min 3 yrs expin women’s designer eveningwear.Fax: (212) 302-1272 or Call (212) 302-2776
Sample SewerBetter Sportswear & Dress Co. seeksan exp’d. Sample Sewer for knits andwovens. Friendly work environment.Fax resume to HR at: 212-584-9931
Seamstress / TailorSeeking an exp’d. Seamstress / Tailorfor high volume Couture Bridal Storein Staten Island. Bridal exp. a must.
Fax: 718-980-1169 / Tel: 718-980-1900
TD SENIOR $90KInt’l NY Designers Needs Your Help!
Tech Designer to $100K BOE. Strongcurrent exp. in swimwear or intimate
apparel. Midtown company.Email: [email protected]
Technical Designer ECI New York
Better womenswear manufacturerseeks individual with 3 years experi-ence in sportswear and dresses. Will beinvolved with comments to overseasfactories, spec development, patterncorrections, and fittings. Need to beextremely organized with good com-puter, verbal and written skills.
Fax or e-mail resume to:(212) 382-0237/[email protected]
TECHNICAL DESIGNERS $HI1) Missy-Jrs.-Kids 2) C/S Knits or Wovens
3) Sweaters 4) All Level PositionsCall B. Murphy(212)643-8090; fax 643-8127
TECHNICAL DESIGNERS*Sr TD Yng Contemp Runway $100-120K*TD Mens Bottoms $75-80K*TD Mens Outerwear $75-80K*TD Better Sportswear $60-80K*Jr TD Sportswear $50-60K*Spec Techs $45K
[email protected] 212-947-3400
TEMPORARY FILLINGS!"On The Marks" has the followingtemp and temp-to perm oppty’s:SHOWROOM SALES-20-22 p/h
SECRETARY 20p/hASSISTANT BUYER 17p/h
PROD’N COORD accessories 18-20p/hHR RESEARCHER/RECRUITER to 30p/h Mailroom, Receptionists, Sales Assts
and many more positions.Email resume to: [email protected]
or fax to: 212-532-6892
Account Executive The SaraMax Apparel Group, a leaderin the Intimate Apparel business,seeks an exp’d salesperson for a greatopportunity in a recently createddepartment store and off price divi-sion. Responsibilities will include thedirect sales and account relationshipsfor a well known national brand. Theideal candidate has demonstrated suc-cess in these distribution channels andpossesses a level of product knowledgeso that they can participate in mer-chandise development. Establishedrelationships with department storesand off price retailers are imperative.Please send resume for consideration,Email: [email protected] orFax: 212-842-4050 EOE
ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE - LAExperienced Account Executive for Corporate Showroombased in Los Angeles seeking a motivated individual to
represent & manage territory. Excellent selling, organizationaland strong communication skills a must. Relationships with
contemporary boutiques a plus! Salary based onexperience. Great benefits!
Please send resume to Attn: ClaudineFax: 213-623-5318 or Email: [email protected]
or Call 213-623-3479.
Children’s WearHigh-end Italian Import Co. seeks adynamic multi-tasking individual withgood communication skills for show-room sales +. Must be exp’d. w/veryhigh-end imports. Salary + benefitscommensurate with experience. PleaseFax or E-mail cover letter & resume to:212-714-0290 / [email protected]
NYC Men’s/Boys’ ApparelSeeking a SALES EXECUTIVE to expand& manage existing mass merchants &private label Skiwear/Swimwear w/majorretailers. Excellent communication &follow-up skills req’d. Fax or E-mail to:212-947-7695 / [email protected]
SALES ASSISTANTFast paced Spec Occassion Dress Mfgrseeks a high energy and motivatedindividual to fill immed entry levelposition. Oppty to work in showroomwith walk in traffic as well as assignedaccounts. Analytical & ComputerSkills req; must be organized withgood followup. Ground level opportunityfor growth! Send resume and salaryhistory in confidence to:
SALESPERSONEst’d handbag company seeks a seasonedand motivated professional to handlesales of our private label/ brandedhandbags to mass and mid-tier accounts.Brands include Izod etc.
E-mail resume to:[email protected]
Sales PositionReputable Apparel Co. seeking a wellconnected Salesperson to help furthergrowth throughout the U.S. Several yearsexperience in the garment industry amust. Fax resume to: 714-662-5551
SALES PROFESSIONALSaraMax Home Décor, a div. of theSaramax Apparel Group seeks aggres-sive highly motivated sales professionalthat can grow existing business.Proven track record of growing busi-nesses and opening new accountsrequired. Strong relationships withhigh end independent retailers, de-partment stores, specialty store chainsand off price store chains. We offer acompetitive base salary plus commis-sion. Please submit resume / coverletter indicating salary history to:
Ronnie Gindi [email protected] Opportunity Employer
Bridal/Evening WearSeeking FT/PT Salesperson for high-endBridal & Evening Couture Store locatedin Staten Island. Experience preferredand weekends a must. Also looking fora Receptionist with computer skills.Pleased call or send resumes to:
Tel: 718-980-1900 / Fax: [email protected]
East & West Coast AgentsCanadian/Int’l. Textile Apparel Co. withhead office in Guangzhou, China isactively seeking East and West CoastAgents to service both private label retailand OEM Mfr. wholesalers. We specializein sleepwear/activewear/outerwear. Weare seeking experienced, hard-workingAgents with excellent connections. Ifyou’re money motivated, E-mail yourresume to: [email protected]
All the bes t for your family.
FASHION | HOME | TRAVEL | HEALTH
TO SUBSCRIBE call (877) 402-6654 or log on to www.cookiemag.com
2007
GENERAL EXCELLENCE
NOMINEE
