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Fashionby Tracey Porter

Velvet, statement fur and floral motifs are the defining items of the season as Europe’s most exclusive fashion houses present their Fall/Winter offerings.

WOMeN’s

Three and a half years is an eternity in fashion, so when Raf Simons unexpectedly announced he was walking away from

one of the sector’s top jobs, naturally there was an air of anxiety as to what it meant for the future direction of the House of Dior.

Right up until the debut of its ready-to-wear Autumn/Winter collection, the world was kept guessing as to who might lead Dior into the future and whether the design house would spin off in a new direction as a result.

A collective sigh of relief was let out by all when the collection was released and it was revealed two of Simon’s former charges - Serge Ruffieux and Lucie Meier – were behind it.

Strongly referencing the house’s traditional DNA, the design team again headed to the archives for inspiration, this time drawing from the couturier’s 1949 shirtdress, titled the Ice-cream dress.

Following in the designer’s footsteps by employing plant motifs and flowers as a way of firstly drawing attention to and then heightening femininity, they could be seen enlarged onto silk jacquard coatdress and on an orange and grey sweater and contrasted with embroidered flowers on the skirt below.

Coats and knitwear were the other stand out pieces where the cut of the peplums, defined waists and large buttoned martingales helped define the Dior woman while collars were either rolled like scarves, pleated, plunged or folded back over the shoulders to ensure she always commands centre stage.

CHRISTIAN DIOR

www.dior.comStockists: 02 9229 4600

“Flight” bag in black prestige calfskin and pocket in Dior empreinte canvas with tufted velvet embroidery - $5,400

“DiorSoReal” sunglasses. Silver metal front with black acetate temples. New exclusive

lenses set with silver studs - $910

Lace-up low boot in black and metallized white crocodile, lizard,

tejus printed calfskin - $2,250“Lucky Dior” “bee” pattern mini ring in

metal with pink gold finish and onyx - $630

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MIU MIU

Miuccia Prada looks likely to have won herself a whole legion of new fans the globe over after putting together a collection

featuring outfits suitable for both an Australian summer and an Austrian winter.

The frequent flyers amongst us could almost be heard sighing with relief as the seasons collided in what was, for all intents and purposes, presented as a FW offering. Affording a nod to all things… well, just all things really. The line up included references to the early ‘70's and ‘80's with tapestry maxi skirts and belted off-the-shoulder taffeta dresses yet the ‘50's was also present courtesy of dusty pink and turquoise cinched coats.

It goes without saying, of course, each had been Prada-fied to reinterpret the sartorial rules of the past and to ensure they remained true to the modern Miu Miu vibe. Dressed up with brocade, fox fur and lace, but dressed down with denim and velvet, varsity jackets and belted military jackets were paired with figure-fitting siren dresses.

White bloomers with cotton shirting were there as too as were denim maxi skirts and flocked overcoats with wool breeches.

Jewelled heels with bows or embellished slippers remain the footwear of choice.

www.miumiu.com Stockists: 02 9223 1688

Chain bag - $3,010

Pearl slipper - $1,460

Floral heel - $1,840

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Concerns the UK economy will be impacted by the Brexit vote has seen Burberry reconsider plans for a new manufacturing

factory in Leeds.

The London-headquartered fashion house has announced it will review the delivery time for the designs of its planned £50m ($A88m) manufacturing and weaving facility, as it considers the “economic consequences” of what the recent vote will mean for its home base.

Chairman John Peace says the factory will still going ahead but the speed of investment might be slowed depending how “events unfold in the next few weeks”.

Following the news of the investment in late 2015, the luxury fashion house had planned to move all 800 manufacturing staff, currently based in two separate sites in Castleford and Keighley, to Leeds by 2018.

Work on the new facility is due to start next year.

Christopher Bailey, Burberry’s chief creative and chief executive officer, says the project is currently “on track” and remains a very important part of the group’s strategy.

The news comes as Bailey announces plans to relinquish his title of chief executive effective next year. Marco Gobbetti, currently the boss of French brand Céline will come in as his replacement.

BURBERRY

www.burberry.comStockists: 02 8296 8588

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PRADA

To the uninitiated, it may appear as though Miuccia Prada’s inspiration for the FW 2016 collection bearing her name is as at

once complex and layered as the clothes making their way down the runway.

For it was evident from the very first look: a sailor hat teamed with a navy shooting jacket, woolly argyle tights and a white canvas corset belt.

But to those who know her best, this is just the fashion house’s creative genius at work, doing what she does best.

The trick, when it comes to Ms Prada’s design aesthetic, is always to expect the unexpected. This season, it comes in the form of a medley of prints, materials and details. Locked diaries, oversize keys and giant metal roses worn around the neck or dangled around the waist or coats with over-sized fur arms and cuffs worn over geometric patterned tights.

After working with Christophe Chemin on menswear AW 2016, Prada again turned to the Berlin-based visual artist to illustrate scenic and floral photographic prints that appeared on T-shirts and as placement prints on coats. Floral dresses in gold brocade and fur-lined tweed capes were other stand out items sure to illuminate the strength both inside and out of the Prada woman.

www.prada.comStockists: 02 9223 1688

Eyeline Shoes in Calf Leather - $1,150Eyeline Shoes in Calf Leather - $1,150

Eyeline Shoes in Calf Leather - $1,150

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BOSS

German fashion house, Boss, has cemented its notable reputation largely on the back of some pretty impressive

architectural tailoring.

But while the sculptural tailoring was still there, in this, artistic director Jason Wu’s fifth season with the brand, Wu has opted to at last loosen the silhouettes.

In what appears to be the adoption of a softer mood this season, Wu manages to blend precision with every line curved to define the female form.

It is most evident in the silky dresses but also reaffirmed by the trousers which boast a slouchy fit of the trousers and the volume in the front given to otherwise lean dresses and skirts.

Contrasting fabrics and textures such as mesh, satin, felt and bouclé

appear in dresses while leather and suede are bonded to crepe to help with structure.

Harking back to the tailoring expertise of the house, a double-faced cashmere coat features a perfectly cut cascade front and curvilinear seam detailing.

Velvet flower detail can be seen throughout and is cut out by hand and re-embroidered onto wool bouclé for a unique approach to one of the season’s key themes.

Hand detailing is also evident in the dresses on offer where hand-frayed strips of chiffon and rows of miniature bugle beads are stitched to a fine mesh base, allowing glimpses of skin beneath.

The collection’s colour palette put together by Wu includes hot pink, cinnamon, emerald, ochre and grass.

www.hugoboss.comStockists: 03 9474 6304