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Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
June 2017
In collaboration with
1
Overview
Fashionbi, in collaboration with Intesa Sanpaolo Innovation Center has identified and analyzed Five main trends
in 2017 that are going to grow bigger this and in the next years, and can revolutionize the way global of Fashion
& Luxury industry functions.
These five main trends are:
Green & Circular Fashion;
Sports & Athleisure;
Omni-Marketing & Instant Fashion;
Customization & Personalization;
Millennial Influencers & Customers.
In 2017 Fashionbi is going to realize 3 reports: through each report, Fashionbi further analyzes the
main chosen trend, in depth, bringing a big focus on the topic relevancy in Fashion, its market growth and
contribution in the fashion economy, its implementation by the brands and the companies and various
supporting technological factors associated with the same.
In collaboration with
2
Overview
The 3 Reports in pipeline are:
1st Report 2017: Eco-Fashion with a special focus on circular economy and sustainable
products and materials.
2nd Report 2017: Athleisure, the merge between activewear market and fashion, with a
special focus on innovative technologies, sustainability and millennial influencers as a part
of the athleisure trend.
3rd Report 2017: Omni-Marketing. The approach that evolving with on going digital and
technology integration and include such trends as social media monetization and
gamification marketing.
In any of the 3 reports the will be a Service Design point of view realized by Experientia describing
how service design can help fashion brands improve customer interaction.
In collaboration with
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INDEX
1 Five Major Trends in Fashion
2 Evolution of the Athleisure Market Trend
3 Shift from the Professional Sport towards Athleisure
4 New Activewear Players with Special Focus on Sustainability
5 Activewear Collections by the Fashion Brands
6 Expansion of the E-tailers into Sports Market Segment
7 Innovative Technologies for Sport
8 Experience Design point of View
In collaboration with
GREEN & CIRCULAR
FASHION
FASHION, SPORT
& ATHLEISURE
OMNI-MARKETING
& INSTANT FASHION
CUSTOMIZATION &
PERSONALIZATIONMILLENNIAL INFLUENCERS
& CUSTOMERS
Five Major Global Trends in Fashion, 2017 4
In collaboration with
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1. Green & Circular Fashion
Major Global Trends In Fashion
On 25th September 2015, the United Nations
formulated 17 Sustainable Development
Goals (SDGs) which aim to transform our
world. Over the next fifteen years, all countries
should mobilize efforts to end all forms of
poverty, fight inequalities and tackle climate
change.
Fashion industry, especially the clothing
production, is the second largest polluter
in the world, behind only oil. And this is why,
as a sector, it has an even bigger responsibility
in front of its customers and the society as a
whole. Today, it is important more than ever to
join the movement towards the sustainable
fashion from both sides: production and
consumption.
In collaboration with
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1. Green & Circular Fashion
Major Global Trends In Fashion
Scenarios for 2025 by Forum for the Future
Slow is beautiful. A world of political collaboration and global trade where slow and sustainable is fashionable
Community couture. Where high-tech systems deliver for the speed-obsessed global shopper
Techno-chic. Where resource crisis constraints consumption in a world focused on local communities
Patchwork planet. A world of fast consumption in global cultural blocs.
In collaboration with
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1. Green & Circular Fashion
Major Global Trends In Fashion
During the past few years, there appeared several organizations which have a common mission to help
organizations across the globe find ways to create a sustainable future.
Sustainable Apparel Coalition was born thanks to the joint forces between Patagonia and Walmart, and many
other brands joined later such as Esprit, Gap, H&M, JC Penney, New Balance, Nike, Nordstrom.
Forum for the Future organisation did the projects with such retailers as Marks & Spencer and Levi Strauss&Co.
Sustainable Fashion Academy amongst the clients has such brands as Asics, Asos, COS, Filippa K, & Other
Stories, Oysho and many others.
There are also organizations which are focused on the labour conditions, e.g. Fair Wear Foundation where
amongst its members we can find such fashion labels as Acne Studios, Claudia Sträter and many others.
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1. Green & Circular Fashion
Major Global Trends In Fashion
The global apparel market currently standing at $1.4 Tn accounts
for 2% of world’s GDP.
China remains the largest exporter of textile throughout the world with
exports worth $286.8 Bln in 2015. Close after is India, Italy, Turkey
and Bangladesh. These top 5 largest exporters therefore are
supplying up to 54.4% of the total apparel trade worldwide.
Speaking of Europe, in terms of Domestic market value of fashion,
UK ($94.1 Bln), followed by Germany ($83.6 Bln) and France ($43.3
Bln) are the most prominent countries with the most number of
employees involved in the fashion sector (350’000 people on an
average). In USA, this value is far ahead with 1.8 Mln people
employed in the business.
Global Fashion Industry Size
Source: Eurostat, Bureau of Labour, 2015
Womenswear
$621 Bln
Menswear
$402 Bln
Kidswear
$339.4 Bln
Bridalwear
$57 Bln
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2. Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
Major Global Trends In Fashion
Thanks to the rising awareness and
consciousness toward health and well-being
globally, and increasing active sports
participation rates, the global Sportswear
market is estimated to grow at a rate of
5.3% through 2016 to 2020. North America,
followed by Asia are estimated to be the
largest market for sportswear business in the
future.
The US-based sportswear and lifestyle giant,
Nike Inc. is presently the largest company in
the market with $32.4 Bln in revenues in
2016, $19.9 Bln are coming from
Footwear.
47.3%
23.8%
22.6%
19.8%
14.0%
9.0%
8.6%
8.2%
7.3%
6.1%
Nike
Adidas
New
Balance
Skechers
Converse
Under
Armour
ASICS
Puma
Timberland
FILA
Most Desired Brands for Sneaker in USA
Source: Statista, 2016
In collaboration with
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2. Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
Major Global Trends In Fashion
Fashion Touch is
important when it
comes to the
functional wear
An interesting fact to note here is that in the past, an
average sports retailer would sell basic t-shirts and
trainers - those were enough to keep the sport conscious
public satisfied with the functionality of them.
However, today, with the ever-so-fashion-conscious
generation of Instagram millennials and the impact of the
fashion It-girls phenomena, certainly a fashion touch is
needed. Similarly, the solely fashion clients of the past now
require some functional element in their fashion outfits to
take to streets and stay within the trend of casual dress
codes.
In collaboration with
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2. Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
Major Global Trends In Fashion
Sneakers have become a big trend. It can be seen not only in the tennis courts today but also the streets, fashion shows and
even on the red carpets. While this product smoothly integrated with mass-market brand’s DNA, it was a rather unexpected
but equally appealing phenomena, when sneakers were seen in the advertising and shelves of the premium luxury brands.
Today, Chanel, Gucci or Valentino sneakers have become an epitome of high fashion and can be seen everywhere
in brand communications as well as in user desirability expressions.
There are currently three times as many sneakers on the market as there are skinny jeans.
Dior Dolce&Gabbana Chanel Gucci Valentino
In collaboration with
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2. Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
Major Global Trends In Fashion
Being healthy and sporty has become the new sexy. It is
not by chance that activewear has become an integral
part of fashion brands lifestyles.
And, as the sportswear items have gradually appeared
in high fashion, the sportswear brands themselves
have moved in the direction of increasing the
fashion content in their product offer.
In order to attract the trend-aware shoppers, the
activewear brands have started collaborating with
celebrities, other brands, and the designers of the
zeitgeist, and as a result, the sportswear is not strictly
worn for fitness purposes only anymore.
$190 Bln $270 Bln
$353 Bln
2009 2016 2020
Global Sports Apparel and Footwear Revenue
Source: Morgan Stanley, 2016
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2. Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
Major Global Trends In Fashion
Many sport brands today like Reebok and Puma are going
for supermodels and social media influencers such as
Gigi Hadid and Kylie Jenner as the ambassadors for
their brand, instead of the usual muscular athletes.
On the other hand, many cross-collaborations are
happening as well where both the brands can benefit
with the diverse audience of each other. Some of them
are: Alexander Wang x Adidas, Jason Wu x FILA, Derek
Lam x Athlete and many more.
All this has given rise to a new industry of Athleisure wear.Gigi Hadid for Reebok
Kylie Jenner for Puma
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3. Omni-Marketing & Instant Fashion
Major Global Trends In Fashion
Even though Omnichannel is a must in any industry today,
especially fashion - in order to offer the customers a unified
and seamless brand experience, still only 45% of retailers
cited omni-channel efforts as a top priority for their.
According to CMO Club, 55% of companies have no
cross-channel strategy in place.
Omnichannel is synonym with what we call today as “instant
fashion”. It is nothing but a phenomena where the approach
is customer-centric, making a company’s products or
services easily identifiable and readily available on any
platform and in any way the customer prefers to shop.
Source: Forrester Research, 2016
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3. Omni-Marketing & Instant Fashion
Major Global Trends In Fashion
Companies with strong omnichannel customer engagement strategies on an average retain 89% of their
customers vs. to 33% for those with weaker strategies
72% of the digital shoppers consider in-store experience as the most important channel in their purchase
Shoppers who buy from a brand both in-store and online have a 30% higher lifetime value than those who
shop using just one channel
70% of US online shoppers said they have used buy online, pickup in stores service, however, only 57% of
the global brands are able to offer this service worldwide
Apparel was just behind consumer electronics in terms of being the top omnichannel shopping product
Source: EMarketeer.com, ThinkWithGoogle.com 2016
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3. Omni-Marketing & Instant Fashion
Major Global Trends In Fashion
Customer today is active on various channels with the
same brand simultaneously (e.g. with smartphone to get
more information while feeling products in-store), hence, it is
a brand’s primary duty to make the messages a customer is
receiving instant, consistent and helpful. This is what can
ultimately lead them to the “Buy Now” button or the checkout
counter.
Whether they’re in a store, on their phone, on a home
computer or at a digital kiosk they’ll have the same
consistent experience, including easy access to product
information and the purchase process.
ChargeItSpok kiosk at Neiman Marcus store, US
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3. Omni-Marketing & Instant Fashion
Major Global Trends In Fashion
Smartphones
now influence
more than
28% of US
retail sales
Smartphones are highly influencing the omnichannel experience. 53%
of the shoppers confirm to Mintel that convenience and instancy are the
two major factors they consider before making a purchase. And hence,
smartphones have become more integral than ever both for the
consumers as well as the retailers in order to buy-sell the products and
services.
About 71% of the shoppers confirm the smartphone as their most
important tool in doing research about a product or a retailer.
Studies claim that the opportunity cost of not being omnichannel is a
10% drop in revenue, together with a weak customer experience.
Hence being it not just a ‘nice-to-have, but a must-have in today’s eco
system.Source: EMarketeer.com, ThinkWithGoogle.com 2016
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4. Customization & Personalization
Major Global Trends In Fashion
Customer has a big say today in how he wants to be
fashioned. In fact there is a new movement called
Crowdsourced Design where the companies,
designers, and consumers all work together to
collectively curate designs that eventually make it to
the finished product stage. However, it is a very new
trend and mostly applicable to small-scale businesses for
now.
It was the mass market sportswear brands like Nike and
Converse in early 2000s who were the firsts to put the
customization service in mass level via e-commerce. The
luxury brands like Chanel and Valentino, on the other hand,
were born with the Haute Couture and bespoke tailoring
services in ateliers.
Levi’s has launched its made-to-order store in New York in 2012
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4. Customization & Personalization
Major Global Trends In Fashion
Besides the premium and luxury brands which offer the customized goods or monogramming services, more
accessible brands also entered the customization trend and provide the unique possibility to create “my”
product. Today, the new meaning of Luxury is making a customer feel connected to the brand and integrating him
with the entire experience, which is why the process of mass customization came in.
“My Coccinelle” bag by Coccinelle“My Play Furla” by Furla
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4. Customization & Personalization
Major Global Trends In Fashion
If the customizable handbag is not a
novelty, the customizable 'non-haute
couture' apparel for an accessible price is
still rare.
One of the examples of such business
model is a Tailor Italy. On the brand's
online store it is possible to create and
shop personalized pieces, that are 100%
Made in Italy.
This startup was accelerated by Intesa
Sanpaolo StartUp Initiative program and
was acquired by Miroglio Group in 2016.
Tailor Italy, www.tailoritaly.com
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Major Global Trends In Fashion
According to our analysis of the customization options offered by the fashion brands, schematically,
they can be divided into these three main levels:
Monogramming
Is the most basic service, where the
customer’s initials can be added to the
products to differentiate them.
Partial Customization
Happens where customer can change
some elements of the products, mixing
and matching as they please however,
the customers are limited in their fantasy.
Full Customization
A customer can create a one-of-a-kind
product by changing all of its elements,
the final ready product is 100% ‘for the
customer and by the customer’.
Burberry monogramming service
for scarves, perfume and bags
Strap You by Fendi that allows to
personalize your bag with the strap
Ray-Ban, Shoes Of Prey, My Swear
4. Customization & Personalization
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4. Customization & Personalization
Major Global Trends In Fashion
Customized shopping doesn't always mean the special edition of the product, it is also about the experience.
The most welcome in-store retailer communications and offerings include automatic discounts at checkout for loyalty
points or coupons (82%) and real-time promotions (57%)
Millennials are more likely than Baby Boomers to look for advice on in-store purchases. 45% like the idea of a
personal shopper who can pull items according to the customer’s style, fit or wardrobe, versus 28% of Baby Boomers.
Baby Boomers are more demanding than Millennials when it comes to receiving benefits in exchange for their
data. 74% expect to get automatic crediting for coupons and loyalty points, and 70% expect special offers for items they are
interested in, versus 58% and 61% of Millennials, respectively
Source:Accenture Personalization Survey 2015, US
In collaboration with
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5. Millennial Influencers & Customers
Major Global Trends In Fashion
Long gone is the era when just a handful of names like
Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford and Linda Evangelista
were ruling the catwalk. Today is the era of millennial
supermodels and they have virtually become the decision
makers for the fashion and luxury brands.
These new role models are famous and ‘wanted’ thanks
either to their celebrity relatives or to their millions of
Instagram following. Any which way, these influencers know
their audience, can relate to them and impact their
perception and purchase behaviour toward a certain brand.
Currently Kendall Jenner, Bella Hadid and Gigi Hadid
are the most super influential models who are the dream
and desire of every designer, every brand and every
consumer in fashion today.
Kendall & Gigi for Balmain x H&M Kendall, Bella & Gigi for Chanel
Kendall & Gigi for Marc Jacobs FS Kendall & Gigi for Victoria’s Secret
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5. Millennial Influencers & Customers
Major Global Trends In Fashion
Many of these millennials influencers are under
the spotlight since the day one of their lives
thanks their parents. Today, these young boys and
girls are just starting their professional lives but can
show pride in already becoming the faces of the top
fashion brands
But, as said earlier, it is not necessary to have celebrity
parents to be at this level. The social media star
Cameron Dallas has an army of fans thanks to his
comic 6 seconds videos on Vine. Vine itself is
transforming to another business model, while
Cameron Dallas is monetizing on his popularity.
Cameron Dallas for Calvin Klein Cameron Dallas, Gabriel-Kane Day-Lewis, Presley Gerber, Brandon
Thomas Lee, Rafferty Law and Luka Sabbat for Dolce&Gabbana
Hailey Baldwin for Stradivarius
Kaia Gerber
for Miu Miu
Jaden Smith for Louis Vuitton
Alain-Fabien Delon
for Dior
Lily-Rose Depp for Chanel
Zoe Kravitz for
Alexander Wang
In collaboration with
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5. Millennial Influencers & Customers
Major Global Trends In Fashion
The millennials don’t necessarily act as the spokesperson for
the brand always, they can also be behind-the-scenes and
associated in, for example, a creative process for the brand.
However, any such association is also just enough to break the
internet.
Such was the case for Burberry when it decided to bag
Brooklyn Beckham to shoot their fragrance ad campaign
“This is Brit”. While some media and photographers were a
bit critical of this choice accusing Burberry of taking
Brooklyn for his surname rather than photography skills, the
social media fans only had appreciation for such a unique
angle.
P.S. In January 2017 Burberry released its beauty campaign with Iris Law.
In collaboration with
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FASHION, SPORTS AND ATHLEISURE
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Development of the Athleisure Trend
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
Sportswear from 1960s to 2017
Athleisure is a fashion trend that intends to “marry”
comfort, functionality and aesthetic of active-wear
with desirability of catwalk trends.
The popularity of the trend can be explained by the rise of
consumers’ focus on health and wellness.
The term ’athleisure’ was officially included in the 2016
version of the Merriam-Webster’s dictionary as ‘casual
clothing designed to be worn both for exercising and for
general use’.
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Development of the Athleisure Trend
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
1960s First tracksuit produced by Adidas
1970s Athleisure term first mentioned in a shoe advertising
1980s Rise of disco and aerobics. Legging trend – comfortable, practical and easy to match
1990s Musicians became style icons. Pop and hip-hop singers were the first to wear sports apparel in a daily life
2000s Rise of Juicy Couture tracksuits. The New York Times: ‘low performance clothing – athleisure”
2010s Wellness trends. Brand collaborations and sophisticated appearance on the catwalk
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HEALTH
AS
WEALTH
Development of the Athleisure Trend
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
New generation of the customers seek an
active lifestyle, today being sporty is in
fashion, hence, the brands are trying to meet the
consumers' demand by creating new products and
enhancing a new experience.
As the result you can go to the mountains with
Chanel skis or attend Body Studio by the
Selfridges store.
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Development of the Athleisure Trend
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
Athleisure is a unisex trend, however the emphasis lies on women as the main target audience.
Athleisure covers all product categories, from
tank tops to leggings and tracksuits but the
particular attention is drawn to sneakers, which
designed to be worn for exercising, streetwear or
daywear.
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Sportswear Market Data
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
In 2015 the overall spendings on the sportswear estimated as $281.9 BLN.
$102 North America $58.1 Western Europe$25.2 China$24.9 Latin America
$15.3 Eastern Europe$16.8 MEA
Source: Societe Generale Private Banking, 2016
20.6%
36.2%
8.9%
8.8%
5.4%
5.9%
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Sportswear Market Data
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
Source: Societe Generale Private Banking, 2016
The sportswear market is still a
predominantly male industry. The
manufacturers are still discovering the
women’s segment, which has shown strong
growth during the past seasons. The experts
tend to believe that women’s sportswear
to become a key growth engine.
The dressing-down trend where more formal
wear is being replaced by casual wear, even
in the business environment, influence on the
acceptance of the athleisure style, hence
continue to propel sales going forward.
Sportswear market division
man
~52%woman
~35%children
~13%
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Fashion Market Data
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
In 2016, athletic wear was
growing at 8.0-8.5 percent
more than twice as fast as
any other category.
More active lifestyle of the
modern consumers and the
entrance of the premium
and luxury brands in the
activewear market segment
will influence on the further
growth of the sales of the
athletic wear.
Fashion Industry Sales Growth by Category 2015-2016 (%)
Clothing
Footwear
Athletic wear
Bags and luggage
Watches and jewellery
Other accessories
Source: McKinsey & Boff Report, 2016
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Fashion Market Data
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
Global Sportswear Absolute Value Growth and % CAGR 2016/2021 by Category
The global apparel footwear market is worth $1.7 Tn and the global sportswear is $282 Bln, hence one in
every six dollars we spent globally on apparel and footwear we spend on sportswear. And
according to the Euromonitor International the performance athleisure will outstrip sports-inspired apparel
growth.
Source: Euromonitor International, 2017
0K 4K 16K12K8K
0.0% 1.5% 6.0%4.5%3.0%
% CAGR 2016/2021Absolute growth
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Athleisure Market Trend
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
Main reasons behind the athleisure market growth:
Shift from the professional sport towards athleisure by the main market players (e.g. Nike,
Adidas, Puma, Reebok, Under Armour)
New activewear players with the special focus on well-being and sustainability
Launch of the sportswear collections by the fast fashion brands (e.g. Zara, H&M, Mango)
Special capsule collections and collaborations by the bridge and premium fashion brands
Influence of the music culture on fashion and sportswear
Expansion of the e-tailers business into sportswear segment
Innovative technologies in sportswear market
In collaboration with
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SHIFT FROM THE PROFESSIONAL
SPORT TOWARDS ATHLEISURE
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From Professional Sport towards Athelisure, NIKE
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
56% of Nike’s sales are coming from men’s
products, but the fastest growing category
is women’s segment, which increased from
$4,976 Mln in 2014 to $6,296 Mln in 2016.
Recently Nike started to rely on the female
celebrities. In 2015 the singer Ellie Goulding
became the face of the new collection, in
2016 Bella Hadid participated in #NYMade
campaign and in 2017 Alicia Keys became
part of the new “Equality” campaign.
NIKE Net Sales, Mln USD
2014 201220162017 2015
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Sustainable Innovation by NIKE
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
Sustainable innovation is a mindset of
Nike – helping the company to maximize
style and performance, while minimizing
environmental impact.
As the result, increase in revenues in
2016 was primarily fueled by
innovative performance and
sportswear products, including
Flyknit.
Flyknit was introduced to the market in
2012, The use of knitted fabrics has
helped to reduce waste by millions of
pounds since 2012.
Nike Flyknit
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Sustainable Innovation by NIKE
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
Besides making most of its products
from its own garbage Nike also
collaborated with Arthur Huang, the
CEO and founder of Taiwanese firm
Miniwiz, to develop new sustainable
packaging for the shoes.
The new packaging box is made
entirely of post-consumer
materials such as milk and juice
containers, and coffee lids.
The package can also be used as a
backpack.
New packaging by Nike
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Circular Economy by NIKE
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
NIKE Grind materials have been incorporated into more than 1 Blnsquare
feet of sports surfaces, such as running tracks, soccer and American football
fields, gym room floors, and playground surfaces.
TODAY, NIKE GRIND
MATERIALS ARE USED IN
71% OF NIKE FOOTWEAR
AND APPAREL PRODUCTS
Since 1990, NIKE’s Reuse-A-
Shoe program has collected and
recycled more than 30 Mln pairs
of used shoes.
NIKE designers have access
to a palette of more than 29
high-performance materials
made from the factory scrap
NIKE has transformed more than
3 Bln plastic bottles into recycled
polyester for use in footwear and
apparel from 2012 through May
2016
NIKE Grind is a premium materials
palette born from a regeneration
process of original materials and
products. NIKE is redirecting millions
of pounds of manufacturing scrap and
old shoes into new uses. Waste
streams – including rubber, foam and
textile scrap – are transformed into
new, premium materials.
NIKE Grind delivers on NIKE’s
expectation that materials and
products will perform beyond a single
use, living on from one product to the
next.
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From Professional Sport towards Athelisure, ADIDAS
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
The long-term commitment of the Adidas
towards women’s business continues to be a
focus for the company. By the women’s
business company imply athlete’s performance
and non-performance needs through the life
activity. No surprise that amongst the latest
ambassadors we can see such ‘non-athletes’
ladies as Selena Gomez, Kate Moss, and Karlie
Kloss. Adidas footwear sales grew 21% in 2016,
apparel revenues grew 7%.
ADIDAS Net Sales, Mln EUR
2016 2015 2014 20112017
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Sustainable Innovation by ADIDAS
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
Adidas has been awarded a ‘Gold Class in
Corporate Sustainability Assessment (CSA).
Environmentally friendly innovative ideas and new
technologies are company’s strength and Adidas
has been using this in their creation of products,
e.g., avoiding oil-based plastic to reduce carbon
emissions, thinner or lighter materials, creating less
waste and less embodied carbon, dry-dyeing
clothes to save water, chemicals and energy.
In collaboration with Parley, Adidas launched
sports shoes made from recycled marine
waste. In apparel, Adidas produced a full running
line featuring t-shirts, tanks, tights, skirts and shorts
with 95% pattern efficiency (only 5% waste).
Adidas Parley shoes
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Sustainable Innovation by ADIDAS
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
In November 2016 Adidas introduced
woven shoes from Biosteel fiber, a
material was developed by a German
biotech company, AMSilk. The material is
ultra strong, lightweight and 100%
naturally biodegradable, as the result the
new shoes can break down in 36 hours
with a help of special enzyme.
Adidas claims that the company is moving
beyond closed loop and into an infinite loop
– or even no loop at all, by pioneering
stride forward beyond sustainability into a
new territory of bionic innovation.
Adidas Futurecraft Biofabric
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From Professional Sport towards Athelisure, UNDER ARMOUR
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
Ben Pruess, senior vice president of sportswear at Under
Armour said: “It is no secret that the fashion business
has come closer to the sport, and sport has come closer
to fashion”. And to support this claim in practice the
company launched Under Armour Sportswear in
partnership with designer Tim Coppens, the collection
was shown during the NY fashion week in September
2016. Similar to its competitors Under Armour also
relies on women’s target, in 2016 sales of women’s
producst reached $1 Bln.
UNDER ARMOUR Net Sales, mln USD
2016 2015 2014 2013 2012
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Sustainable Innovation by UNDER ARMOUR
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
In 2016 Under Armour celebrated Earth
Day by unveiling a concept boot made
from 70% sustainable materials. The
outsole uses a bio-based injection that
is 99% renewable, laces made from
recyclable yarns, heel counter and
forefoot board made from a bamboo
composite.
In 2010 Company launched a project line
called UA Green in, products were made
from recycled plastic bottles creating
strands of fiber that are knitted together*.
*Currently the UA Green line is not on sale
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From Professional Sport towards Athelisure, PUMA
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
Puma is very proud of its ambassadors like Cara
Delevingne, Kylie Jenner and Rihanna, these
celebrities have none or almost no connection to
sports, but are very influential in fashion field. In
2014 Rihanna was appointed as the creative
director of the fashion sportswear Puma
division. In 2016 women´s business saw the
launch of a series of successful styles: shoes,
apparel and accessories – both in collaboration
with Rihanna.
PUMA Net Sales, Mln EUR
2016 2015 2014 20122017
In collaboration with
47
Sustainable Activities by PUMA
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
According to PUMA COO, Lars Sørensen,
sustainability and business need to go
hand in hand, therefore the company
from 2016 onwards have set a broad
range of new sustainability targets until
2020, ranging from Health and Safety to
Corporate Governance, and Human
Rights to eliminating Hazardous
Chemicals.
Lifecycle studies demonstrated that the
majority of the environmental impact
for Puma’s products occurs during the
raw material creation and processing
phases. Therefore the company set
targets for certifications of the main
materials, namely cotton, polyester,
leather as well as paper and cardboard.
Progress Against Material Targets
Division Material Targets% of total
volume 2015
% of total
volume 2016
Target
2016
Target
2020
Apparel
Cotton sourced
as BCI 0 19 20 50
Bluesign certified
Polyester 15 24 20 50
AccessoriesBluesign certified
Polyester 20 21 20 50
Footwear
LWG medal-rated leather
suppliers 99 94 90 90
Traceability LWG A&B
leather rating 20 18 20 tbd
FSC certified and/or
recycled paper and
cardboard85 78 80 90
In collaboration with
48
From Professional Sport towards Athelisure, REEBOK
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
In October 2016 Gigi Hadid (style icon and
trendsetter) joined Reebok as the face of
#PerfectNever campaign. #PerfectNever
movement is a call to action that asks women
around the world to celebrate the beauty of
imperfection and champions Reebok’s message
of self-betterment. Reebok also partners with a
number of highly influential music artists
(rappers) such as Kendrick Lamar and Future.
REEBOK Net Sales, Mln EUR
2015 2014 20132016
In collaboration with
49
Sustainable Innovation by REEBOK
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
In April 2017, Reebok presented a new
line of compostable footwear made of
cotton and corn. The plant-based
sneakers have the upper part made of
organic cotton and a base originating
from industrial-grown corn (a non-food
source).
Company’s goal is to present a broad
selection of bio-based footwear which
can be composted after use, instead of
ending up in a landfill. What is more, the
sneakers’ compost will serve as a part of
the soil to grow the materials for the next
range of shoes.
In collaboration with
50
NEW ACTIVEWEAR PLAYERS WITH SPECIAL
FOCUS ON SUSTANABILITY
In collaboration with
51
Sustainable Activewear
Fashion, Sports and AthleisureO
rgan
ic F
ibers
Green Apple Active
Sustainable active
wear clothes from the
certified organically
grown bamboo.
Pact
Clothes from the non-GMO
organic, responsible
manufacturing, and values-
based shopping.
Satva
Collaborates with socially,
environmentally conscious
organic cotton production
for the activewear clothes.
In collaboration with
52
Sustainable Activewear
Fashion, Sports and AthleisureR
ec
yc
led
Po
lye
ste
r
RUMI X
Deliver simple everyday
performance apparel for
studio-to-street, made
from recycled plastic.
Yoga Democracy
Use recycled polyester and
recycled nylon to produce
activewear for yoga and
daily wear.
Cozy Orange
Produce clothing from
recycled polyester and keep
their production sustainable
and eco-friendly.
In collaboration with
53
Sustainable Activewear
Fashion, Sports and AthleisureO
rgan
ic C
ott
on
&
Recycle
d P
oly
este
r
Threads 4 Thought
Full lifestyle brand that
is produced responsibly
& use organic cotton
and recycled polyester.
Manduka
Designed using premium
fabrics sourced primarily
from environmentally
responsible materials.
Prana
Clothing from recycled
polyester, organic
cotton and other
sustainable materials.
In collaboration with
54
Sustainable Activewear
Fashion, Sports and AthleisureE
co
-Fri
en
dly
Mate
rials
Allbirds
Shoes made from ZQ-
certified merino wool,
which meets sustainable
farming standards.
Nau
Produce functional and
aesthetic clothes, while
setting higher social and
environmental standards.
NoMiNoU
Athleisure innovative eco
friendly brand, that creates
activewear, including yoga
and pilates clothes.
In collaboration with
55
ACTIVEWEAR COLLECTIONS
BY THE FASHION BRANDS
In collaboration with
56
Premium
and Luxury
brands
Bridge Fashion Brands
Mass Market and Fast Fashion Brands
Conditionally all the fashion brands can be
divided into 3 main groups: mass market,
bridge and premium. The main criteria for
this division is marketing strategy which
relies on price and distribution.
Despite the market segment the brands
are trying to enter activewear market by
launching new products to be in line
with the athleisure trend.
Activewear Collections by the Fashion Brands
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
In collaboration with
57
Activewear Collections by the Fashion Brands
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
Premium
and Luxury
brands
Bridge Fashion Brands
Mass Market and Fast Fashion BrandsLaunch of the sportswear products can have different label
and promoted via special campaigns and ambassadors, e.g.
For Every Victory by H&M
The bridge brands rely on the ‘athleisure’ key word. The new
products go under the brand’s name, but separated from the
main collection, e.g. Pinko Athleisure or can be created together
with the sportswear companies
Premium Brands do not give any titles to the activewear products but
just include the ‘sport’ goods in main collections, e.g. D-Fence shoes
by Dior or launch special collaborations
In collaboration with
58
ACTIVEWEAR COLLECTIONS BY THE FAST FASHION BRANDS
In collaboration with
59
Activewear Collections by the Fast Fashion Brands
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
The first Start Moving collection for Fall Winter 2013-2014
Bershka was one of the first mass market brands to
propose a gym wear with its “Start Moving” campaign.
In 2015 the brand also collaborated with Reebok for
the special collection of sneakers, the official hashtag
of the campaign was #MYURBANGYM. The sneakers
called “City Maps” weigh only 200 grams, have a shock-
absorbing sole and was priced 59.99 euro
When: July 2013
What: Start Moving
In collaboration with
60
Activewear Collections by the Fast Fashion Brands
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
Gymwear by Zara
Zara brand launched new category called “Gymwear”
which offers the customers trendy apparel for training -
Box, Run, Ballet. The face of Zara Sport campaign is
famous model Edie Campbell. In selected Zara stores,
sportswear apparel and accessories are organized in a
special area, separating them from casual wear
However, due to the fashionable twist of the Zara Gym
wear is often worn for its aesthetics and trendiness
rather than performance features.
When: March 2016
What: Gymwear
In collaboration with
61
Activewear Collections by the Fast Fashion Brands
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
Active Sport Training
In April 2016 OVS launched the Active Sport Training
collection for men and women. The prices are ranged
between 10 and 30 euro, many pieces cost € 9.99 which
is the lowest price compared to the other fast fashion
brands.
OVS also propose sport collection for kids,
#ActiveForKids, which is basically the jersey jumpers, T-
shirts and trousers for girls and boys.
When: April 2016
What: Active Sport Training
In collaboration with
62
H&M For Every Victory Campaign
In summer 2016 H&M celebrated the life changing power
of personal victories with the trendy and functional sports
collection For Every Victory.
The campaign was fronted by inspiring personalities
starring Caitlyn Jenner along with Chelsea Warner, a
gymnast with down syndrome, surfer Mike Coots who
lost his leg in a shark attack, boxer Namibia Flores
who defied gender roles.
When: July 2016
What: For Every Victory Campaign
Activewear Collections by the Fast Fashion Brands
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
In collaboration with
63
Nautical Collection, 2017
Fila and Urban Outfitters first collaborated in the Fall
of 2015 for a retro inspired womenswear collection,
influenced by the 90s spirit of the sportswear brand.
In February 2017 was launched fourth collection
by FILA x UO, which has a nostalgic retro aesthetic,
taking mostly the visual characteristics of
sportswear instead of functional.
When: February 2017
What: Nautical Collection
Motocross Collection, 2016
Activewear Collections by the Fast Fashion Brands
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
In collaboration with
64
Mango Sport, 2017
Mango doesn’t yell about its sport collections via
noticeable collaborations but does promote it on via
social media channels.
In March 2017 was introduced the gym collection for
the Spring Summer 2017 season, last summer the
brand was promoting its yoga line, asking the followers
to share their asana with the brand via special
hashtag, #MANGOYoga.
When: March 2017
What: Mango Sport
Activewear Collections by the Fast Fashion Brands
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
In collaboration with
65
ACTIVEWEAR COLLECTIONS BY THE BRIDGE AND PREMIUM
FASHION BRANDS
In collaboration with
66
Athleisure by the Bridge and Premium Fashion Brands
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
JASON WU
Jason Wu collaborated with Fila for 3 seasons
The first collection was presented at the fashion
show in Hong Kong at the end of 2015
In November 2016 the Spring Summer 2017
collection was presented on the catwalk in Beijing
Jason Wu x Fila collection is available in selected
countriesJason Wu x Fila Spring Summer 2016 collection
In collaboration with
67
ALEXANDER WANG
During the NYFW Alexander Wang presented
the Adidas Originals unisex line
The capsule collection was sold in pop-up
trucks in New York, London and Tokyo, with big
crowds waiting in line
From April 2017 the collection by Alexander Wang
is available at both brands flagships, online and at
140 retail locations globallyNew York, September 2016
Athleisure by the Bridge and Premium Fashion Brands
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
In collaboration with
68
PRABAL GURUNG
The brand launched Prabal Gurung Sport
collection in collaboration with sport multi
brand retailer Bandier
Prabal himself explains that the collection is
for women off-duty, in her leisure time
The face of the collection is Hailey Baldwin, not
the athlete but the model and millennial
influencer, her uncle is Alec Baldwin
Athleisure by the Bridge and Premium Fashion Brands
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
In collaboration with
69
DEREK LAM
Till today Derek Lam and Athleta launched
four collections
Derek Lam’s VP of design underlined that they
took a tailored, sophisticated approach to
activewear and athleisure
The collection is more upscale than Athleta’s
typical products and also includes $498 leather
jacket and $228 cashmere sweaterMay 2016 September 2015
Athleisure by the Bridge and Premium Fashion Brands
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
In collaboration with
70
J.CREW
J.Crew and New Balance collaborated for the first
apparel activewear line for men and women in 2016
J.Crew appointed “real” people for the campaign
Jenna Lyons, creative director of J.Crew brand*,
said "We hope these clothes (along with ice
cream) help motivate you to do whatever activity
it is you like to do. And if they don't, we still think
they look great sitting on the couch."*In April 2017 was announced that Jenna Lyons is leaving the company
Athleisure by the Bridge and Premium Fashion Brands
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
In collaboration with
71
PINKO
Athleisure collection of the same name is present
on the brand’s website in the separate product
category
On social media channels the athleisure
products are promoted as the Spring Summer
2017 collection
Pinko emphasize on the ‘athleisure’ key word,
explains the trend to the customers and shows
how to style new ‘comfy’ products
Athleisure by the Bridge and Premium Fashion Brands
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
In collaboration with
72
KATE SPADE NEW YORK
Kate Spade launched the athleisure line in
collaboration with Beyond Yoga
The collection consists from 21 pieces and
priced between $85-$250
Besides the basic tank tops, bras, legging, and
shorts the collection also includes pullovers
and jackets
Athleisure by the Bridge and Premium Fashion Brands
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
In collaboration with
73
REPLAY
In October’15 Replay joined the athleisure trend
by launching a new product - Hyperskin jeans
The main message of the campaign was to break
the stereotype that you cannot exercise in jeans,
Irina Shayk was appointed as the face of the
campaign
The Hyperskin jeans are available at Reply stores
in 2 colors (blue and black) and cost 145 euro
Athleisure by the Bridge and Premium Fashion Brands
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
In collaboration with
74
VALENTINO
In April 2017 Valentino launched #FlyCrewSneaker
by Pierpaolo Piccioli, the collection was shown
by the skaters
In January was launched Valentino Untitled
unisex collection, which was presented by the
dancers from a selection of Parisian ballet schools
During the past few seasons one of the most
popular product category by Valentino is the the
studded sneaker
Athleisure by the Bridge and Premium Fashion Brands
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
In collaboration with
75
LOUIS VUITTON
During Paris fashion week in January 2017 Louis
Vuitton released the collection in collaboration
with Supreme
Price range in line with the assortment of Louis
Vuitton’s main collections, $4000 for backpacks,
$955 for sneakers, $2000 for denim jackets
The collection will be available at the Louis Vuitton
stores in US starting from June 2017
Athleisure by the Bridge and Premium Fashion Brands
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
In collaboration with
76
LACOSTE
In March 2017 was released the special collection
by Lacoste and Supreme
The collection is sport-inspired and includes range
of track jackets and sweaters ($198), polos and
track pants ($148), shorts ($123), and caps ($50)
The collection is on sale at the Supreme shops in
New York, Los Angeles, London, and Paris, as well
as online
Athleisure by the Bridge and Premium Fashion Brands
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
In collaboration with
77
Athleisure by the Bridge and Premium Fashion Brands
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
DIOR
Dior doesn't make the difference between sporty
products and the classy ones, the newly launched
D-Fence sneakers are communicated together
with the classy pumps
Women’s Spring Summer 2017 collection was
inspired by the fencing, Beatrice Vio is the new
brand ambassador
During the SS 2017 fashion week on the catwalk
were shown the series of the T-shirts
In collaboration with
78
Athleisure by the Bridge and Premium Fashion Brands
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
GUCCI
In April 2017 Gucci release its Pre Fall
2017collection via special campaign, styled by
Alessandro Michele
The collection was presented via ”Athletic
dance moves”
Earlier the brand announced about its new
service – customization of the Gucci Ace
sneakers with the special patches
In collaboration with
79
INFLUENCE OF THE MUSIC CULTURE ON FASHION
In collaboration with
80
Influence of the Pop Culture on Fashion
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
Spring Summer 2017
“Run the Streets” by Puma
The Weeknd
Spring Summer 2017
“Spring Icons” by H&M
Facts:
His name often appears headed for the
music charts.
His lyrics deal with sex, drugs, prostitution
and similar themes. Some videos on his
official YouTube channel gain more than
700 mln views. His audience on Instagram
equals to 12 mln.
In 2016 The Weeknd collaborated with
several brands.
In collaboration with
81
Influence of the Pop Culture on Fashion
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
Limited edition pieces by Lil Yachty x Nautica
Lil Yachty
Facts:
Hip-hop artist from USA, born in 1997.
Some videos on his official YouTube channel
gain more than 6 mln views.
In February 2017 Lil Yachty debuted as
Nautica’s creative director at the NYFW.
Karen Murray, President of Nautica relies on
the Lil Yachty vast and growing millennial
following.
Lil Yachty in Nautica for Urban Outfitters
In collaboration with
82
Influence of the Pop Culture on Fashion
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
FKA TWIGS for Calvin Klein, March 2016
FKA TWIGS
Facts:
Tahliah Debrett Barnett, known by the stage
name FKA Twigs, is an English singer,
songwriter, was born in 1988.
Some videos on his official YouTube channel
gain more than 8 mln views.
Her new track “Trust In Me” was the part
of Nike Women’s Spring Zonal Strength
tights campaign. FKA TWIGS for Nike, January 2017
In collaboration with
83
Influence of the Pop Culture on Fashion
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
BEYONCE
Facts:
Beyoncé has received numerous awards. As
a solo artists she sold over 100 million
records worldwide making her one of the
best-selling music artists of all time.
Beyonce endorsed many brands and even
participated in development of some fashion
collections.
In 2016 she officially launched an
activewear brand Ivy Park.Ivy Park by Beyonce
In collaboration with
84
Influence of the Pop Culture on Fashion
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
RIHANNA
Facts:
Rihanna is one of the most influential artists
with sales exceeding 230 million records
worldwide.
In February 2016 Rihanna presented the
Fenty Puma collection for men and women
during the NYFW.
According to Puma the Rihanna’s
collection had a tremendous impact on
the company’s success in the fashion/
lifestyle area and was sold out within
hours.
Rihanna’s Fenty Puma collection
In collaboration with
85
EXPANSION OF THE E-TAILERS
INTO SPORT SEGMENT
In collaboration with
86
Expansion of the E-tailers into Sportswear Segment
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
In July 2014 Net-A-Porter launched a
new platform Net-A-Sporter. More than
35 designers and brands are available
with the prices ranged from $80 to $3500
Besides the wide range of the assortment
for running, swimming, skiing tennis, yoga
exercises, the customers of Net-A-Sporter
can also learn on how to prepare a detox
drink and which beauty products is
essential to buy after the sport activities.
In collaboration with
87
Expansion of the E-tailers into Sportswear Segment
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
Louisaviaroma also sells the
activewear for the gym ‘and beyond’
for men and women. In addition to the
new activewear brands in the assortment
of Louisaviaroma the customer can find
selection of goods from Nike, Reebok and
Adidas.
Similar to Net-A-Sporter Louisaviaroma is
covering all the main activities: boxing,
running, skateboarding, skiing, training,
yoga, tennis and so on.
In collaboration with
88
Expansion of the E-tailers into Sportswear Segment
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
In February 2017 Mytheresa.com in
collaboration with Missoni launched a
special activewear capsule collection, a six-
piece range consists of a cropped cardigan, a
top, leggings, a jumpsuit, a halter neck bra and
trousers — all done with the signature Missoni
print.
It was a first activewear collection for Missoni,
but not the last one. Just 2 months after,
Missoni announced about the new project with
Stéphane Ashpool for the basketball-inspired
men’s wear collection.
In collaboration with
89
Expansion of the E-tailers into Sportswear Segment
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
Amazon is currently selling its own brands
of dresses and suits and at the beginning
of the 2017 it became known that
Amazon is planning to develop its own
line of the workout apparel.
It is important to note that online giant
already sells big number of the
sportswear brands including the top ones
like Nike, Adidas, Puma, Under Armour.
In collaboration with
90
INNOVATIVE TECHNOLOGIES FOR SPORT
In collaboration with
91
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
Sensoria Smart Sock
The company created the smart sock that can tell
how fast and how far, and also how well you run.
Each smart sock is infused with textile sensors under
the plantar area (bottom of the foot) to detect foot
pressure. Adjustable anklet connects sock to the
Sensoria mobile app.
Furthermore the company offers the t-shirt for men
and sports bra for women that has attachable
heart rate monitor that is also sending the
information to the app.
Wearable Technology
In collaboration with
92
Wearable Technology
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
Ralph Lauren Smart T-shirt
Ralph Lauren, in collaboration with Montreal-
based tech startup OmSignal, made a "second-
skin" fabric workout shirt, that has silver fibers
woven directly into the fabric and a small, sensor-
filled black box that snaps into the shirt near the rib
cage, to track biometric stats like steps taken, heart
rate, breathing depth, and energy exertion.
The data transfers to the PoloTech App, which
offers live fitness monitoring, reporting and a “push
rate,” which measures exertion, power and effort,
during sports activity.
In collaboration with
93
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
Runtimate Armband
The Armband has a magnetic fastening
between the phone case and the band,
that allows to remove or use the phone
during the training if necessary.
The product technology is borrowed from the
manufacture of technical equipment for
extreme sports, so the armband is made to
withstand even a during intense training.
Wearable Technology
In collaboration with
94
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
BearTek Gloves
BearTek Gloves primarily aimed to people, that
do skiing, snowboarding and motorcycling or
any other kind of sport involving low
temperature or requiring hand protection.
Bluetooth system gives users controls for
their devices quite literally at their
fingertips. The Gloves can be connected to
smartphone or GoPro and allow users to
control music, camera and phone calls.
Wearable Technology
In collaboration with
95
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
Levi’s & Google Smart Jacket For Urban Cyclists
The smart Commuter jacket has technology
woven into its fibers, and allows users to take
phone calls, get directions and check the time, by
tapping and swiping their sleeves. That delivers
information to them through their headphones so that
they can keep their eyes on the road without having
to fiddle with a screen.
Its smart fibers are washable; they're powered by a
sort of smart cufflink that have to be removed when
you wash the jacket. The cufflink has a two-day
battery life. The jacket should hit stores in fall of 2017.
Wearable Technology
In collaboration with
96
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
Wearable X Fan Jersey
The Football Fan Shirt is embedded with haptic
technology that physically and digitally connects
the fan to their favorite team in real-time.
The Shirt is incorporated with the sensors,
marked green on the picture, and by using
haptic vibrations, the shirt communicates all
important moments that happen during the
game. The shirt connects with special app by
Bluetooth doing the real-time experience
possible.
Wearable Technology
In collaboration with
97
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
Fyre: Temperature-Regulating Hoodies
Crowdfunding campaign on Indiegogo
Fyre creates hoodies and cardigans that
distribute the heat with the help of
removable battery.
The company claim to use extremely thin and
flexible carbon heating fibers that ensure an
even distribution of heat. The Hoodies are
machine-washable after removing the battery.
The startup raised 250% from the declared goal.
Wearable Technology
In collaboration with
98
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
Vitali: The Everyday Smart Bra
Crowdfunding campaign on Kickstarter
The idea for Vitali first came from yoga. Good
breathing and posture are not only vital to the
practice, but also everyday wellbeing.
With biofeedback from the Gem and sensors,
located in the bra, the company is able to
analyze the data about breathing, posture
and heart rate and give users advices, to
straighten the back or take a break, in real time.
Wearable Technology
In collaboration with
99
Technology For Sport
Fashion, Sports and AthleisureM
ob
ile A
pp
licati
on
s
Heart Watch
Heart Watch lets you see how
your heart is beating across
three simple views. Waking,
Regular & Workout.
WeFit
Italian startup that helps people
to find and book their personal
trainer, according to physical
activity they want to do.
In collaboration with
100
Technology For Sport
Fashion, Sports and Athleisure
BuddyForFit
BuddyForFit is a social platform
that allows you to instantly find
sport buddies near you and train
together.
WeFitter
Startup from Barcelona allows users
to participate in fitness challenges,
earn points and convert them for
rewards from different brands.
Mo
bile A
pp
licati
on
s
In collaboration with
101
Technology For Sport
Fashion, Sports and AthleisureS
po
rts
Eq
uip
me
nt
BodyBoss 2.0
Indiegogo startup from US, that
simulates 1,000s of dollars worth
of gym equipment in one
portable platform.
G-FORCE
Indiegogo startup from Italy
which allows to perform the
widest range of exercises in one
piece of gear.
In collaboration with
10
2
EXPERIENCE DESIGN POINT OF VIEW
In collaboration with
10
3
"Like the process of UX design,
fashion design is iterative and goes
through many phases before you're
ready to get it to your user or customer"
Service design is an approach to help the fashion
industry become more human-centered, aligning their
products, services and business models firmly with
people’s behaviors and aspirations. Opportunities
include improving the fashion customer journey and
experience, ideating new services for the fashion
industry, building more sustainable business models,
and integrating new technologies into fashion in a truly
user-centered (rather than tech-centered) way.
- Regina Gilbert
Experiencing Fashion:How service design can help fashion brandsimprove customer interaction
In collaboration with
10
4
Service design for the fashion industry
The service
design toolkit
Ethnography and
observation to
explore behaviors
Prototyping and
co-creation
New paradigms
and technologies New business models
In collaboration with
10
5
The service design toolkit
Service design is a holistic approach that explores the
behaviors, activities and contexts of (potential) customers,
distills insights from this, and then uses these “behavioral
models” to shape services and how customers experience
them. The design toolkit includes techniques like
observation, ethnography, structured interviews and other
qualitative research methods, modeling tools like customer
journeys, personas, scenarios, and design approaches like
concept design and prototyping.
"Service design explores behaviors,
activities and contexts, and then
uses these 'behavioral models' to
shape services and how customers
experience them.
Experiencing Fashion:How service design can help fashion brandsimprove customer interaction
In collaboration with
10
6
"The fashion business will need to
more thoroughly understand the
attitudes, behaviors and contexts of
consumers and design new
products and services that excel in
usability and user experience."
Ethnography and observation to explore behaviors
The human-centered approach is becoming increasingly important in fashion,
due to the many varied online and offline ways the fashion industry connects
with its customers and the nascent growth of wearables and “soft computing”
(technology that is inside the fabrics themselves). Therefore, the fashion
business will need to more thoroughly understand the attitudes, behaviors and
contexts of consumers and design new products and services that excel in
usability and user experience, particularly when considered with other activities
consumers do, like driving, working, running etc. Likewise, we must consider
people's contexts. How will this service be experienced in crowded store
environments, noisy concerts? What if the service is accessed from home, from
work, from a device? By observing people's real-life behaviors in their various
environments, we can shape their interactions with the service accordingly.
Experiencing Fashion:How service design can help fashion brandsimprove customer interaction
In collaboration with
10
7
Prototyping and co-creation
Consumers can be engaged and active within the
design process through co-creation - identifying hidden
requirements and giving direct input into the design
through empathetic, hands-on techniques. Services
can even be prototyped, through models that allow
consumers to experience what using the service would
be like, and offer feedback.
New business models
New business models can help fashion companies to develop
more sustainable practices, addressing the criticisms of fast
fashion. By addressing the stages of the garment journey from
development to customer and beyond, the fashion industry can
incorporate cradle to cradle practices and a circular economy
approach, such as recycling and reusing components, and
building end-of-life service practices into the customer journey.
Service design can go beyond the brand and customer
experience, and help ensure that technology is being incorporated
into fashion products and stores in a way that is meaningful for
consumers, and useful for business purposes.
Experiencing Fashion:How service design can help fashion brandsimprove customer interaction
In collaboration with
10
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New paradigms and technologies
The user experience will be critical in designing how people interact with
wearable devices, but how will this provide a smooth and delightful user
experience and be different from how we interact with other smart
devices? We also need to consider how people expect wearables to
behave, and whether we need to adapt old interaction models before we
apply them to a new class of devices.
Digital technologies will also allow fashion companies to collect a lot more
data - not just from online and CRM technologies, but from the technology
embedded into garments themselves. Good service design can ensure
that brands collect information that is relevant and useful to them, by
combining knowledge of their audience with the appropriate technologies.
"The user experience will be critical
in designing how people interact
with wearable devices.
Experiencing Fashion:How service design can help fashion brandsimprove customer interaction
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Dr. Todd Harple is an anthropologist in
Intel's New Devices Group, based in
Oregon, USA. His work focuses on
wearables and the future of computing.
He has worked for 11 years at Intel as a
researcher and innovator, and is currently
the Director of Innovation & Pathfinding
Strategies. He lived in Turin, Italy for four
months in 2013.
Todd has been working for several years in the field of
“soft computing” (as in understanding what it takes to
make sensors and technologies conformable and soft
to the touch and the body, often integrated inside
fabrics) and smart apparel. His activities began with
building an understanding of the people who were
already actively integrating technology into garments,
understanding what people were trying to achieve,
what was working, and what wasn't before moving to
integrate those findings with new materialities of
sensing and computation made possible by new
materials and miniaturization of technologies that could
form the foundation of an emerging data economy.
Service design opportunities for the fashion industry:Interview with Todd Harple
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How are soft computing and smart apparel
changing the fashion industry?
We learned early on from user research that what
people wear, hold or carry often has meanings that
inter-relate fashion, style, functionality and beyond.
What this means for consumers is the possibility of a
frictionless way to capture detailed, increasingly
accurate contextual information about their bodies,
behaviors, and contexts. In the near term, many of
these capabilities are being honed for athletes to
improve workouts, body efficiencies and more.
In the long term, it is quite possible that our
garments will form a sort of “black box” that will
inform us of risks to our health and that of others
around us ranging from understanding basics like
heartrate and activity to more detailed information
about hydration, blood sugars, muscle performance,
and even cognitive performance. These capabilities
may well transform the future of healthcare and
human well-being in general.
As an anthropologist, I'm driven by understanding
how to generate an empathic connection with people
who might use whatever we might make, but at the
same time I'm well aware of the tech constraints and
business concerns that need to be balanced.
Soft computing combined with miniaturization of
technology is bringing new tools and capabilities into
fashion that enable designers to transform the way
we look and perform at work and at play. Its not just
dresses on the runway featuring robotics or
biosensors. Nor is it simply clothing and accessories
that can seamlessly improve our fitness and prevent
injury. Soft computing and smart apparel will
increasingly leverage the intimate contact between
our garments, accessories and our bodies and
motions to bring new data, experiences, and
understandings to the world. In some ways, one
might consider fashion designers the “developers” of
the future. Empowered by soft computing, designers
and fashion houses may well be poised for a
dramatic pivot as arbiters of the world’s largest
databases of personal data.
In research on fashion technology, we found many
cases of fashion designers trying to reconcile a
desire to manipulate aesthetics and functionality of
garments initially for artistic expression. On the one
hand, we learned how materials and materiality
influenced and inspired design. On the other, how for
an emergent group of designers, traditional
processes and expertise around things like
sketching, pattern making, cutting and sewing were
in part giving way to things like digital sketching,
3D modelling and printing and assembly.
Service design opportunities for the fashion industry:Interview with Todd Harple
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How can a service design approach help us to improve
fashion design?
The systemic approach of service design can and will impact the entire fashion industry.
Already designers and fashion houses are experimenting with the delivery of new services and
experiences that integrate technology at nearly every stage of the product development lifecycle:
development of new fabrics and materials using both organics and synthetics, development of fibres
that take on new capabilities like color or phase change or conductivity and new tools with which to
design (sketching and prototyping virtually with such resolution that visions will be bound only by the
imagination) and manufacture and so forth.
Co-creation and mass customization as services that tie design, manufacturing and purchase more
closely together are the early sentinels of service design’s utility in fashion. Already emerging in the
footwear segment, it will extend across all garments and accessories. Traditional analog is
beginning to find a comfortable relationship with digital partnerships
(think the likes of Tag Heuer and Intel).
For example: The Adrenaline Dress is a collaboration between Intel and fashion designer Becca
McCharen. It responds to the wearer’s stress levels and adrenal function, and changes shape
accordingly. (Image courtesy of Intel)”
Service design opportunities for the fashion industry:Interview with Todd Harple
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What are the main ways you have observed service
design entering the fashion world in the last 1-3 years?
Service design can connect the consumer, design, and manufacturing journeys
more strongly. This can be seen in the emergence of mass customization and
personalization—things like Shoes of Prey and Feetz.
In terms of business models, we can discover creative ways to make use of
“sharing economy” models - for example, offering people the experience of trying
high-end fashion (e.g. Rent the Runway) and simultaneously creating an economy
to get maximum wear and recycling.
This can also lead to radical re-thinks of products, focusing on a circular
economy/cradle-to-cradle service design, to respond to criticism around “fast
fashion” (think Patagonia).
The Synapse Dress logs and communicates mood and stress levels. The 3D
printed dress was designed by Dutch Fashion Tech designer Anouk Wipprecht with
Niccolo Casas and Intel’s New Devices Group. (Image courtesy of Intel)
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What would you consider to be
opportunities for the fashion industry
to integrate service design into
garments and fashion?
Reduction of waste and environmental harm seem
like the loftiest of goals that service design can
make incrementally attainable. Consider things we
purchase today that require an “end of life”
practice—recycling of batteries, phones, consumer
electronics, and light bulbs. Imagine a future where
whatever you purchase has a plan for its end of
service. Service design can be integral here.
We can improve connection across the experience
lifecycle – design, supply chain, manufacture,
distribution. From our first knowledge of a product
onward, service design and technology have the
ability to intertwine social and environmental ethos
into the lifecycle visible to the consumer.
Where are the biggest innovations in
"fashion service" coming from currently?
Mass Customization: Things like Feetz, Nike iD, and
Shoes of Prey are leading the way in challenging
norms of design, manufacture and distribution. Feetz
goes a step further and allows for a truly custom
design based on 3D models of a consumers' foot.
How long before 3D scanning becomes accessible
and standardized to the point of extending this to
other garments?
Rapid Design and Prototyping: Software like V-
stitcher combined with rapid production techniques
like 3D knitting and printing are going to make rapid
design and prototyping a reality—shortening
development cycles and improving time to market.
Some companies will emerge at the intersections of
the hardware and software to smooth this out and
make it a reality.
New Materials: Increasingly companies are
challenging long-held understandings about materials,
their production and usage. Organics like leather are
now in the early stages of being grown for production,
kombucha has shown potential for making an organic
material similar to leather or vinyl, silver-fibre threads
and patches once used for their anti-microbial
properties are becoming sensors and circuits,
academics are developing fibre and thread-based
circuits and batteries. 3D printing is showing promise
in adapting not just synthetic materials, but also
integrating graphene, carbon nanotubes into polymers
to add functionality. Others are experimenting with
mycelium as a printing medium.
New materialities of sensing, computation, and
materials for construction have the potential to
enable a dramatic shift in our understandings and
expectations of fashion supply chains and
environmental impacts.
Service design opportunities for the fashion industry:Interview with Todd Harple
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INNOVATION CENTEROBSERVATORY OF INNOVATION