FASH 15 textiles

basic weaves & fabrics

basic weaves & fabrics

a fabric is a pliable, planelike structure that can be made into 2- or 3-dimensional products that require some shaping & flexibility

fabric quality describes many characteristics:•freedom from defects•uniform structure & appearance•production performance•consumer performance

important to textile producers, designers, retailers & consumers

woven fabrics

made with two or more sets of yarns interlaced at right angles

warp yarns—yarns in lengthwise direction (ends)filling yarns—yarns in crosswise direction (weft)

common characteristics:•made with two or more sets of yarns interlaced at right angles•many different interlacing patterns give interest and texture to fabric•yarns can be raveled from adjacent sides•fabrics have grain•fabrics are relatively stable, with little stretch in warp or filling

the loomhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cqjhvOuKLR8&NR=1

hand loomshttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GLNalNO2yTg&NR=1&feature=fvwp

air-jet loomhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pgLstMHhLfY

rapier loomhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOY_dhy8AQ0&NR=1

projectile loomhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X3vjBYID0fc

circular loomhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XFFCAa1QHH4

characteristics of woven fabrics

warp & filling differentiation•selvage is always parallel to lengthwise direction (warp)•most fabrics have a lower elongation in warp direction•warp yarns lie straighter and are more parallel in the fabrics because of loom tension•fancy or special-function yarns are usually in the filling direction•fabric characteristics may differentiate between the warp and filling directions—EXAMPLE: poplin has filling rib; satin has warp floats•warp yarns tend to have higher twist & are similar and more uniform in structure and appearance•fabric crimp is usually greater for filling yarns since they must curve over or under warp yarns due to loom operation•warp yarn count tends to be higher than filling yarn count•if yarn-dyed stripes are in one direction only they tend to be in the warp direction

characteristics of woven fabrics

grain—geometry or position of warp yarns relative to filling yarns •on-grain fabric has lengthwise grain parallel to warp yarns & crosswise grain parallel to filling yarns•off-grain fabrics create problems in production & use—do not drape properly or hang evenly and printed designs are not straight

characteristics of woven fabrics

fabric count—•number of warp and filling yarns per square inch•indication of quality—higher count, better quality

balance—•ratio of warp yarns to filling yarns in fabric•balanced fabric 1:1

selvage—•lengthwise self-edge of a fabric•formed differently on different looms

characteristics of woven fabrics

fabric width—•loom determines fabric width•handwoven—narrow (27-36 inches)•commercial—exceed 60 inches•consumer market—45-60 inches or 54-60

fabric weight•describes how much a given area or length of fabric weighs•important—identify appropriate use & name

• lightweight/top weight—weigh < 4.0 oz/sq yd• medium weight—4.0-6.0 oz/sq yd• heavyweight/bottom weight— weight > 6.0 oz/sq yd

naming & diagramming woven fabrics

fabric names are based on:•fabric structure•fabric weight•yarn type•yarn balance•finishes

plain weave

•simplest of the three basic weaves•formed by yarns at right angles passing alternately over and under each other•least expensive weave to produce•no technical face or back unless printed

general characteristics:•tend to wrinkle easily•less absorbent than other weaves•raveling less of a problem•yarn type greatly influences these characteristics

CREATE A PLAIN WEAVE

balanced plain weave•simplest plain weave•warp & filling yarns are same size & same distance apart•wider range of end uses than fabrics of any other weave•most widely used type of woven fabric•can be made in any weight

lightweight sheer—georgette, chiffon, voile, organdy, organza

lightweight opaque—lawn, batiste, China silk, habutai, challis

medium-weight—percale (calico, chintz, cretonne, polished cotton, glazed chintz)

muslin, flannelette, outing flannel, gingham, chambray, madras, pongee, honan, ripstop nylon, ripstop taffeta, true crepe

heavyweight—weaver’s cloth, homespun, crash, butcher cloth, burlap, hessian, osnaburg, flannel, tweed

unbalanced plain weave

•significantly more yarns in one direction than the other•creates rib—ridges of varying size depending upon number & size of yarns

lightweight ribbed fabrics—crepe de chine

medium-weight ribbed fabrics—broadcloth, taffeta, shantung

heavyweight ribbed fabric—poplin, faille, rep, bengaline, ottoman, grosgrain, bedford cord

basket weave

•made with two or more adjacent warps and two or more fillings•interlacing pattern similar to plain—two or more yarns follow same parallel path•most common are 2x2 or 4x4•variations include 2x1 and 2x3

fabrics that have a basket weave:• dimity• oxford cloth• sailcloth• duck• canvas• hopsacking• monk’s cloth

twill weave•each warp or filling yarn floats across two or more filling or warp yarns with a progression of interlacings by one to the right or the left•forms a distinct diagonal line or wale•can be made on a simple loom•have technical face & back—face has most pronounced wale•fewer interlacings allow yarns to move more freely•softer, more pliable & recover better from wrinkles•soil shows less on uneven face of twill weave than plain weave

CREATE A TWILL WEAVE

even-sided twill weave

•expose an equal amount of warp and filling yarn on each side of fabric•reversible

•even-sided twill weave fabrics:• foulard or surah• serge• twill flannel• sharkskin• herringbone• houndstooth

warp-faced twill weave

•have predominance of warp yarns on face•stronger & more resistant to abrasion & piling

•warp-faced twill weave fabrics:• lining twill• denim• jean• drill• covert• chino• gabardine• cavalry twill• fancy twill

satin weave•each warp floats over four filling yarns and interlaces with the 5th filling yarn with a progression of interlacings by two to the right or the left•can be produced on simple loom•lustrous because of long floats on surface•yarns can be packed very closely together•face & back look significantly different•high count gives strength, durability, body, firmness, wind repellency•fewer interlacings gives pliability and wrinkly resistance, but yarns may snag, slip or unravel easily

CREATE A SATIN WEAVE

satin weave

satin weave fabrics—•satin—warp faced (warp floats cover surface), filament yarns •crepe-back satin—crepe yarns give softness & drapeability•sateen—spun yarns, come in filling sateen & warp sateen