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ALUMNI MAGAZINE OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA
No. 51, February 2010
CIA
Connections
CIA ConnectionsThe long reach of CIA connections
6
The Tea SommelierA world of flavor in a cup
20
The Ratings GameAll about those star and diamond ratings
24
6
CIA Connections
Across the PlazaFollowing the Presidential Trail | Gluten-Free Summit
Women Share Their Success | Alumni Hobbies | Book Shelf
Reunion 2009 | Halloween Dance
14
Education for LifeA Toast to Our New Beverage Program | Manager Training
Program for Alums | The Ratings Game | Kudos
22
Gifts at WorkWhy Give? | Giving’s Impact | Menu for Healthy Kids
28
Class NotesAlumni Council Corner | Class Notes | In Memoriam
32
24
18 22
4
mise en place® No. 51, February 2010
Nancy W. Cocola, Editor
Leslie Jennings, Designer
Contributing WritersDr. Chris Loss ’93
Shelly Loveland
Jenifer McEnery
Andrea Morris
Jennifer O’Neill
Darin Schulz ’83
Editorial BoardDr. Tim Ryan ’77 President
Nancy Harvin Vice President for Advancement
Mark Ainsworth ’86
Brad Barnes ’87
Sue Cussen
Ron DeSantis ’81
Heather Kolakowski ’02
Chet Koulik
Chris Loss ’93
Francisco Migoya
Douglass Miller ’89
Tama Murphy
Anthony Nogales ’88
Jen Stack ’03
MissionMise en place is the college magazine for alumni and friends of The Culinary Institute of America, and reflects its principles and core values. Its mission is to foster a mutually beneficial and enduring relationship between the CIA, its alumni, and friends by:
Providing information of interest about the college, its alumni, faculty, and students.
Presenting substantive, balanced, and accurate coverage of major issues and events concern-ing the college as well as highlighting alumni leadership and contributions to the foodser-vice industry. Creating a forum to help alumni network and build community.
©2010 The Culinary Institute of America All rights reserved.
Photography: Stephanie Berry, Keith Ferris, Andrea Morris, and K. Elaine Read Original Art: Julian Landa
When you were a student at the CIA, you defined the place by its
gorgeous campuses, rigorous classes, bustling kitchens, esteemed
faculty, and time with good friends. Upon graduation, the CIA
became less of a place and more a state of mind that you carried
with you. No matter where you go, the CIA is there in the whisper
of a knife cut, a beautiful plating of vegetables, the gracious greeting
of customers, the careful selection of a wine, a perfectly executed
pastry, and the quiet order in your kitchen. It’s in the profit and
loss statement you pore over at night, the phone call to a vendor
demanding the best product, and the weekly checks you hand out to
your staff.
Your connection to other CIA alums is forever. It’s there when
a fellow graduate recommends someone who turns out to be the
perfect sous chef. It’s there when your purveyor, another CIA grad,
makes sure you get the freshest produce. It’s there when you feel the
camaraderie in a kitchen populated mostly by CIA alumni who share
the same culinary DNA with you.
This edition of mise en place is all about CIA Connections. We’ll
look at the CIA’s community, corporate, academic, and earth-
ly connections. We’ll also get a glimpse into the networking and
romantic connections so often experienced by our alumni. After
you’ve finished reading, you just might want to e-mail or phone an old
friend from the CIA—and make a connection.
Nancy Cocola
Editor
mise en place no.51, February 2010 5
School of DistinctionThe CIA has been named a “School
of Distinction” for 2008–2009 by the
Accrediting Commission of Career
Schools and Colleges (ACCSC). The award
recognizes ACCSC-accredited institutions
that have demonstrated a commitment to
the expectations and rigors of accreditation
as well as to delivering quality educational
programs. The CIA was honored at
ACCSC’s Professional Development
Conference Awards Ceremony on
September 15, 2009 in San Diego, CA.
Requiring renewal of accreditation every
five years, this is the second consecutive
accrediting process for which the CIA
earned a “School of Distinction” honor.
Two New TrusteesAt the October 2009 Annual Meeting at
the Hyde Park campus, Carla Cooper,
retired senior vice president for Quaker,
Tropicana, and Gatorade sales, Pepsico;
and Arthur Maxwell, chairman of Pearl
Street Group, WhiteFence, and AIS, Inc.,
both took the Oath of Trusteeship. They
were formally welcomed as the newest
members of the Board of Trustees.
News from GreystoneThe scoop from our Greystone campus is
the addition of the A.O.S. in baking and
pastry arts, joining the A.O.S. in culinary
arts degree program already offered there.
Demand in the industry for increasingly
skilled and experienced baking and pastry
chefs was part of the motivation to launch
the degree program at the California
campus.
In other news, the construction of the new
residence hall at Greystone is finished!
And while the landscaping is not yet in,
the rooms are now ready for their first
occupants. You’ll remember that the
construction plans won a Leadership in
Energy Efficiency in Design (LEED) gold
certification. To learn more about how the
CIA is thinking green, go to page 12.
Making Food Easy on YouTubeWhat do Play With Your Food and Now
You’re Cooking have in common? They
are both cooking shows hosted by
CIA alumni on YouTube. Play With
Your Food is produced by Oklahoma
State University’s School of Hotel and
Restaurant Administration and hosted
by Marc Dunham ’99, chef de cuisine at
OSU’s Atherton Hotel and the fine-dining
Ranchers Club. The show emphasizes that
cooking should be simple and fun. Now
You’re Cooking is hosted by Adam Parker
’01, executive chef at Indian Head Resort
in Lincoln, NH. Adam’s show highlights
some of the fun and delicious recipes
found at the resort that translate easily to
the home kitchen. What’s most obvious
when you watch these two shows is how
passionate both chefs are about sharing
their knowledge with people so they
too can enjoy the pleasure of preparing
delicious food.
They’ll Appreciate You More, for Less!Friends and family have never really
understood the rigors and challenges of
your CIA education. Now it’s possible
for them to get a glimpse into your world
through one of our Boot Camp programs.
They’re available at all three of our
campuses—Hyde Park, Greystone, and
San Antonio—and we’ve arranged for
your favorite food enthusiast to receive
a preferred price of 15% off any Boot
Camp. Just call 1-800-888-7850 for more
information.
(left to right) Carla Cooper, arthur maxwell, and Cameron mitChell
trussing a ChiCken in boot Camp
new residenCe hall
www.ciaalumninetwork.com66
Community}Connections
Making Dreams Come TrueMost chefs will tell you that they knew from a very young age that
they wanted to be chefs. Fourteen-year-old Alex Overbey is no
exception. He hopes to become a chef someday. As certified ProChefs,
Rik Kiessling P.C. III/C.E.C. and Craig Luckman, P.C. II/C.C.C. of
Aramark Sports & Entertainment know just how special it is to earn a
credential from the CIA. They each have been through the rigorous
courses and exams associated with ProChef® certification. So they
were more than happy to help aspiring chef and Colorado Rockies
fan Alex Overbey, who has been battling cancer, make his dream
come true.
Working with the Make-A-Wish Foundation, Regional Executive
Chef Kiessling and Executive Chef Luckman reached out to CIA
Director of Training and Certification Tama Murphy for assistance in
making Alex’s dream a reality. On August 22, 2009, Rik, Craig, and
Alex worked side-by-side to develop a menu item to be sold at Coors
Field—the home of Alex’s beloved Rockies. What emerged from that
creative conclave was Alex’s Burger, made of two Angus beef patties,
bacon, mushrooms, onion rings, American and Swiss cheese, lettuce,
pickles, and Chef Alex’s special sauce. Oh, and all of that was served
with a side of fries! Proceeds of the sale benefited the Make-A-Wish
Foundation. With his creation on the menu, Alex had one more thrill
to top off his day. He was granted the honorary title of Chef from The
Culinary Institute of America, and was presented with a certificate,
CIA books and knife kit, and a card of congratulations from both
faculty and staff.
“Alex was thrilled to receive the cookbooks and knives from the CIA,”
said Rik. “He was honored that so many great chefs and others took
the time to write him notes, and hopes that someday he can become
a full-time student at the CIA.” Thank you, CIA ProChefs Rik and
Craig! You make the CIA proud.
Chefs in Community ServiceOn Saturdays you’ll find a group of dedicated CIA students cooking
and serving food at either Queen’s Galley in Kingston, NY or the
Bowery Mission in New York City. For these committed students,
giving back to those less fortunate is not just something they talk
(left to right) Craig, alex, and rik at Coors field
mise en place no.51, February 2010 7
about, but rather
something they do
without fanfare or
accolades. Queens Galley
is a soup kitchen that
provides those who go
there the dignity of a
served, sit-down meal.
“The best part is seeing
how grateful people
are when you hand
them food. They ask us
questions when they see
us in our chef’s whites,” explains Jill Wasilewski, president of Chefs in
Community Service (CCS).
The much larger Bowery Mission provided homeless men and
women with more than 362,500 meals, 78,500 nights of shelter,
50,000 articles of clothing, 550 doctor’s appointments, and 69 eye
exams in 2008 alone. Prepping for the cafeteria-style dinner service,
CCS students feel like they are in an episode of the Food Network’s
Chopped. They never know what ingredients will be available to them
from the donated pantry. The challenge is creating healthy comfort
food that limits salt, sugar, and fat. In fact, they produce two sets
of desserts—one of which is sugar-free for diners who suffer from
diabetes. One of the biggest surprises for Jill was her perception of
the people she was serving. “Most of the people you meet are very
down on their luck and look much like you would expect a homeless
person to look,” she says. “But every now and again, someone will
arrive for dinner carrying a briefcase. The only giveaway to their
desperate situation is the frayed cuffs and ill-fitting suit jacket that
reveal their shaky hold on recovery.” The soup kitchens are not the
only project for CCS. They help to stock food pantries by promoting
canned food drives as well. Despite all the other demands placed on
CIA students, it’s wonderful to see some of them reaching out and
making a difference in the larger community.
Creating from the Soup Kitchen PantryDr. Lois Altman ’81, professor and director of Ball State University’s
Hospitality Food Management Program, heads a cooking crew at
Harvest Soup Kitchen every Friday. That crew can include a retired
engineer, a retired automaker, and Ball State students. Her dedication
to the project has resulted in a book called Harvest Handbook, which
Altman describes as “a book for folks who cook in soup kitchens. It
offers ideas about how to maximize and be creative with the resources
found in a soup kitchen.” This book is available online at www.harvest.
iweb.bsu.edu for all to use. In addition to cooking, Lois scrounges for
homegrown produce to round out the soup kitchen’s larder. “I’m
always out there in the community, grubbing for stuff,” she happily
explains.
(left to right) danielle stevens, nathan ordway, and jill wasilewski
lois altman working with volunteers at harvest soup kitChen
www.ciaalumninetwork.com8
Network}Connections
Alums Pilot Young Chefs to CareersNewly engaged and planning their future together, Robbie Rensel
’10 and Samantha Bussman ’09 discovered new career and personal
goals during their July 2009 summer break while connecting with
industry leaders and CIA alumni in Dallas, TX. Prior to their trip,
both students contacted Lee Ellen Hayes, senior advancement
officer for corporate relations in the CIA Office of Advancement, to
identify potential employers willing to meet with them. “We wanted
to gain a thorough understanding of different companies’ cultures
and philosophies so we could make sure we ended up working for a
company we melded with,” explained Robbie.
Lee Ellen reached out to her CIA network of industry leaders. She
scheduled interviews and facility tours with Mary Ane Piazza ’96
at The Coca-Cola Company, Michael Gluckman ’99 at Fearing’s
Restaurant, David Sonzogni ’80 at Central Market, and many others.
What began as job exploration quickly turned into an idea for a pilot
career exploration program.
“The pilot had a profound impact on Samantha and me. It helped us
network with prominent executives,” Robbie said. “We are now both
pursuing the retail sector of the food industry—something we never
would have thought to do. Samantha was almost positive she wanted
to go into hotels, but found that they were not the place for her.”
From Lee Ellen’s perspective, the pilot was a success. “Samantha
received a job offer from Central Market, and, following her
graduation, accepted a front-of-the-house position in Houston. Robbie
developed a proposal as part of his senior thesis to turn the pilot
project into a permanent program available to all students.”
At least half of the 2,700 students enrolled at the CIA are recent
high school graduates. They arrive on campus with a strong sense of
who they want to become when they graduate. Often they envision
themselves opening the next French Laundry or Le Bernardin. Some
aspire to become the next great hotelier. The career possibilities
available in the foodservice and hospitality industry are endless and
this program is an opportunity for students to get exposure in a real-
life way.
Employers that want to learn more about how to participate in a career
exploration program can contact the corporate relations team in the
Office of Advancement by e-mailing Felicia Zammit at f_zammit@
culinary.edu.
Feeding the Culinary PipelineLon Symensma ’99, executive chef at New York City’s Buddakan,
says, “At the CIA I established relationships that have lasted me
throughout my career.” In fact, it is through his longstanding
relationship with Associate Professor in Culinary Arts Xavier Le Roux
that he continues to staff his restaurant. High-quality students who
come to the attention of Chef Le Roux through both word and deed
are often nudged in Lon’s direction, and if the fit is right, he takes
them on.
Meeting with CIA students is something Chris Muller ’88, chef
mise en place no.51, February 2010 9
the map and has created Pampered Cow, an aggregating center for
Hudson Valley cheeses and products like Liz’s. Of course, one of the
companies he uses to “move the cheese” is Baldor Specialty Foods,
whose president is Michael Muzyk ’80. Also working at Baldor is
Jared Walton ’06, who says “so many of my customers have CIA
degrees or have been to CIA Boot Camps. The common experience
gives us instant credibility, is a great talking point, and is a definite
business advantage.”
But it is through serendipity and chance meetings that Liz sees the real
power of her CIA network. After meeting Matthew Ifkovits ’02 at a
farmer’s market, they struck a deal and she is now making jam for his
restaurant in Athens, NY. At a speed-networking event, she met Sara
Lukasiewski ’09, executive chef at Red Devon Restaurant in Bangall,
NY. The restaurant now uses her jam. And, at a Rensselaer County
meeting she found Noah Sheetz ’00, executive chef at the Executive
Mansion in Albany, NY and she now supplies his kitchen with her
products! Liz believes that each of these mutually beneficial business
“deals” were struck more easily because CIA grads immediately
recognize and trust the quality of the work, products, and integrity of
fellow alums.
de cuisine at Le Bernardin in New York City, does every day. He’s
actually hired more than 200 CIA graduates over the last 15 years.
But he doesn’t just hire graduates or take on three or four externs a
year; Chris opens the doors to one of the world’s best kitchens to a few
students every Saturday afternoon to stage. These students get to see
and experience a pressured yet disciplined setting. At 5 p.m. they join
the Le Bernardin staff for the evening’s menu review done with detail
and precision—the Michelin 3-star way.
A Business AdvantageThe CIA network of graduates of which “head jammer” Liz Beals
’02 is a part consists of a group of alums whose shared standard of
excellence helps to open doors. Her job is at Beth’s Farm Kitchen
in Stuyvesant Falls, NY, and her CIA network looks a little like
this. Down the road from Beth’s Farm Kitchen is Matt Scott’s farm
in Ghent, NY. He is determined to put Hudson Valley cheeses on “head jammer” liz beals
lon doing a demo for Cia students
10
Corporate}Connections
Got Milk?By Jenifer McEnery
All smart business owners know that effective marketing translates
into profits. When the catchy “Got Milk?” campaign began in 1993,
the California Milk Processor Board’s goal was to increase sales by
building consumer awareness about milk’s health and thirst-quenching
benefits. It is credited with turning around national milk sales.
In some cases, marketing can promote brand awareness while also
benefiting a greater cause. At the CIA, the corporate relations team
in the Office of Advancement works to help companies gain brand
exposure for their products through the Gifts-In-Kind (G-I-K) program
while they simultaneously support culinary education. The G-I-K
program enables companies to make a gift of product or equipment to
the college that will be used by students and professionals enrolled in
our degree or continuing education programs.
Jim DeJoy, advancement officer for corporate relations, explains, “We
have already trained more than 39,000 foodservice industry decision-
makers. For food and hospitality companies, this amount of exposure
of their quality products makes good business sense.”
It also makes sense for the CIA. Approximately $9 million is spent
annually on food products alone with another $1 million spent on
new equipment. Gifted product or equipment allows a portion of
these funds to be redirected toward other areas of need, including
institutional aid for student scholarships. Over the years, the G-I-K
program has freed up several million dollars to do just that.
There are a number of participating companies that are either alumni-
owned or employers of alumni—a testament to the value of being a part
of the G-I-K program.
According to Jim, “It is pretty typical to get a call from alumni
wanting to bring their company’s product to campus. The brands they
used repeatedly during their time at the CIA are ones they continue
to associate with quality. They want to achieve the same awareness for
the brand they represent.”
The G-I-K program is successful because we don’t compromise our
mission of excellence. The college has a rigorous process, led by
our faculty, for determining which products and equipment will be
accepted. If they don’t meet the chefs’ specifications for quality and
curriculum, we don’t accept them.
Participating in the CIA’s G-I-K program is a win-win for companies
and the college. Companies gain brand exposure early on in a young
chef’s career and the CIA improves student access to education. So, if
you’ve “got milk,” and it’s good, we’ll take it!
Over 100 companies currently participate in the CIA’s G-I-K program.
A select number of these have participated for more than five years:
All-Clad Metalcrafters, Inc.
Baldor Specialty Foods, Inc.
Barnes & Noble Bookstores, Inc.
Barnes & Watson Fine Teas
Bunn-O-Matic Corporation
Catelli Brothers
Colavita USA, Inc.
Colgate-Palmolive Company
Cres Cor
DeBragga & Spitler, Inc.
Diamond Crystal Specialty Foods
Ginsberg’s Institutional Foods, Inc.
Green Mountain Coffee Roasters, Inc.
Harry Wils & Company, Inc.
Hobart Corporation
Illycaffè-New York, Inc.
InterMetro Industries Corporation
Jurgielewicz Duck Farm
Keating of Chicago, Inc.
Manitowoc Foodservice
McCormick & Company, Inc.
Nation’s Restaurant News
Panasonic Company
Par-Way Tryson Company
The Procter & Gamble Company
San Pellegrino USA, Inc.
Sunkist Growers, Inc.
T & S Brass and Bronze Works, Inc.
Tone Brothers, Inc.
Viking Range Corporation
Wood Stone Corporation
World Tableware Inc.
To learn more about the G-I-K program, contact Jim DeJoy,
at [email protected] or 845-451-1453.
Jenifer McEnery is a CIA advancement officer.
11
Romantic}Connections
Dutch TreatThey often say, “The way to a man’s heart is through
his stomach.” And when two men are involved who
are both CIA grads, that old adage translates into
lots of food and lots of love. Stephan Hengst ’00,
the CIA’s director of communications, and Patrick
Decker ’05, food stylist for the Rachael Ray Show,
met on the Hyde Park campus. Stephan was already
working in the college’s Media Relations Department
and Patrick was a 7th term student. Everyone said
they had so much in common and must meet. As it
turned out, they shared the kind of connection that
translated into a serious, committed relationship.
While the CIA acknowledged them as domestic
partners for the purposes of health insurance, living
in New York State meant marriage was a distant
dream—at least until they learned about an interesting
contest.
The Netherlands is home to the Van Gogh Museum,
tulips, windmills, canals, The Hague…and marriage
equality. In fact, Holland was the first country to
legalize gay marriage as far back as April 2001.
The mayor of Amsterdam, Job Cohen, thought New
York’s quadricentennial celebration of Dutchman
Henry Hudson’s sail up the Hudson River was
the perfect time to highlight the issue of marriage
equality in the U.S. He
wanted to send a message
to New York State and
hopefully spur political
movement on the
marriage front. So, the
city of Amsterdam staged
a contest for couples in
which one member was
a Dutch citizen, one was
an American citizen, and
both lived in New York
State. The prize? A fully
legal marriage during
Amsterdam’s annual Gay
Pride celebration.
Stephan, whose father is Dutch and mother is
Swiss, was born in Holland, where he still retains
citizenship. Patrick is an American citizen. They
seemed the perfect contestants. They had to submit
all sorts of citizenship papers and verifications, and
fill out mountains of forms before they were selected
as one of the five couples to be married on a barge
floating down the main canal in Amsterdam on
August 1, 2009. Stephan reports, “We got caught
in the race to get everything sent in and it was only
after we were selected by the contest committee that I
actually turned to Patrick, in the kitchen of all places,
to ask him to marry me!”
Arriving in Amsterdam, with family in tow, was an
amazing experience for the couple. People stopped
them in the streets to congratulate them. Everyone
seemed to know who they were and stood ready to
help Stephan and Patrick celebrate. And while having
one million people lined up along the canal to watch
you get married may have felt a little unreal, it didn’t
take away from the personal and private reality of the
event for them.
As thrilling as it was to get married in Holland, the
return home left them, once again, in a gray area.
The New York State Senate recently voted not to
legalize same-sex marriage. Until it does, Patrick
and Stephan will continue to raise awareness by
lobbying their senators
and legislators to make
marriage equality the
law. In the meantime,
they can be found out
and about or at home,
enjoying life with lots of
food and lots of love.
www.ciaalumninetwork.com12
Earth-ly}Connections
Green Restaurant Certification for St. Andrew’s Café St. Andrew’s Café at the Hyde Park campus has the distinction of
being the first of our restaurants to work closely with the Green
Restaurant Association (GRA) to obtain certification. The GRA—a
national nonprofit consultancy—has broken down environmentally
friendly practices into small bites that restaurateurs can easily
digest. Their main goal is to guide restaurants so the change to
green is simple, affordable, and rewarding. We worked with them
on everything from water and energy efficiency and conservation
to recycling and composting. On December 22, 2009, St. Andrew’s
Café received a two-star certified restaurant designation from the
Green Restaurant Association.
Quenching Thirst, NaturallyThe Natura® Water System creates a crystal clear and delicious
beverage using the CIA’s normal tap water routed through two
carbon filters. From there the water passes through a UV chamber
that destroys 99.99% of any microorganisms. Available in both still
and sparkling versions, the water is presented in the restaurants in
attractive, reusable glass bottles. This technology eliminates the need
to transport, store, and dispose of single-use bottles, thus reducing
our carbon footprint. Patrons in our restaurants are still able to
purchase Acqua Panna® and San Pellegrino® bottled water, but the
equally good Natura costs less.
Keeping it CleanAs you might imagine, keeping floors, kitchens, workspaces,
residence halls, bathrooms, and public spaces clean at the CIA is one
huge job. We’ve invested in three new electrolyzing machines that
turn regular salted tap water into chemical-free cleaning solutions.
The process breaks the water down in two ways. First, it creates a
mild disinfectant for things like cutting boards and work surfaces
that is safe enough to ingest despite its mild Clorox-like aroma. The
second resulting fluid is used as a de-greaser and general cleaning
liquid. Our goal is to clean the CIA while being 90% chemical-free.
“To Go” As We Knew It… Is GoneThey look just like regular “to go” cups and containers—but they’re
not. Made of corn-based products, these items are meant to find their
way into the compost heap, not the landfill. They take between 40–60
days to decompose using the heat of the composting pile. Going
forward, we are looking into bamboo and other sustainable materials
to replace plastic use throughout the college.
When Assistant Store Room Manager and Buyer Chance Coluccio
comes to work at the CIA every day, one of his principal goals is to
find ways for the college to steward the earth better than it did the
day before. He is always looking for new initiatives that will have a
positive impact on the environment. Some projects that are in the very
preliminary stages of investigation are: working gardens to support
the restaurants, greenhouses to grow vegetables year round, and green
“living” roofs to reduce heating and cooling loading.
Whether we’re pouring water at the table for our restaurant patrons, washing the floors in the hallways, lighting the lobby of Roth Hall, providing to-go trays and cups for students, or re-outfitting one of our restaurants, the CIA is paying close attention to our connection to and impact on the earth.
mise en place no.51, February 2010 13
Food Safety ResearchThe CIA’s Department of Menu Research &
Development is part of an interdisciplinary team that
received a $1.6 million USDA National Integrated
Food Safety Initiative (NIFSI) grant for research to help
improve the safety of fresh fruits and vegetables. The
research team of academics and industry leaders, led
by Dr. Randy Worobo of Cornell University, includes
members from the University of California, Davis;
the CIA; the University of Florida; Michigan State
University; Texas A&M; and representatives from
Duda Farm Fresh foods, the North Carolina Strawberry
Association, The American Raspberry and Blackberry
Association, and the National Good Agricultural Practices
Program. We will focus our expertise on identifying
the microbial hazards associated with bringing fresh
and minimally processed produce from the farm to the
consumer’s table. We will develop strategies for best
practices, and educational interventions for industry
professionals and home cooks that minimize risks. This
research will help develop new knowledge and advance our
understanding of the challenges and opportunities that our
vast and vital food systems present.
Our Dynamic Food SystemOn average, consumers split approximately half of their food
dollars between restaurants and retail outlets, creating a variety
of distances and distribution chains for our produce to travel.
And with the demand for convenience foods with global flavor
profiles, our food systems become increasingly far-flung and
complex. Thus, it is essential for an interdisciplinary group like
the NIFSI grant research team to critically evaluate the potential
microbial hazards present in our food system, and develop
strategies to minimize risks associated with these hazards.
The CIA’s Role The CIA’s Department of Menu R&D represents the field of
culinary education and acts as a liaison to the foodservice
industry. Food industry stakeholders who bring ingredients
from farm to fork will serve as models to better understand
the microbial hazards associated with fruit and vegetable
production and develop strategies for reducing risks
associated with those hazards.
Over the next four years the NIFSI research team
will work together on the following goals:
• Use scientific data to redefine good agricultural
practices to minimize the microbial risks associated
with fruits and vegetables.
• Define and communicate the microbial hazards
that can result in the contamination of fresh and
minimally processed produce in home kitchens,
foodservice operations, and retail facilities.
• Model microbial transfer during fruit and
vegetable cultivation, processing, distribution, and
handling in retail and foodservice environments.
• Analyze the economics of controlling microbial food
safety hazards for fresh and fresh-cut fruits and vegetables.
• Educate consumers, retail workers, and foodservice
professionals about best-handling practices for minimizing
risks of microbial contamination of fresh produce.
The Department of Menu R&D will help design online
surveys to conduct a needs assessment of foodservice
and retail personnel, and help develop and evaluate
educational materials on safe handling of fresh produce.
In addition, a combination of classical microbiological
cultivation and molecular testing methods will be used to
“map out” the microbial ecology of the kitchen, and determine
where the foodborne pathogens associated with fresh outbreaks
are and where in the food chain they enter. The results from this
work will be used to develop improved cleaning and sanitation
guidelines in the kitchen. Training materials developed will be
evaluated at the CIA as part of the regular food safety classes
and in special seminars, with the ultimate goal of incorporating
them into the National Restaurant Association’s ServSafe®
educational materials. By taking an interdisciplinary, science-
based approach to understanding the mechanisms of microbial
risk reduction, we will more effectively adapt to our dynamic
food systems. Academic research collaborations such as this
will help our industry provide its customers with safe, healthy,
and flavorful meals.
Interested in getting involved with research? If you
are interested in being involved in this study and learn
more about “mapping out” the microbial ecology of your
restaurant kitchen, please contact me, Dr. Chris Loss, chair,
Department of Menu R&D, at [email protected].
Academic}ConnectionsBy Dr. Chris Loss ’93
14
Following the Presidential TrailPresident Tim Ryan meets with countless groups and individuals to
ensure that the partnerships, collaborations, and alliances the CIA
forges help enhance the quality of education we offer students and
advance the industry as a whole. Here is a glimpse of some of the
new and ongoing relationships Tim cultivates for the CIA.
Peruvian Culinary Educators Confer with CIA The president of the Peruvian American National Council (PANC)
and two representatives from San Martín de Porres University
(USMP) visited our campus to discuss their interest in developing
a working relationship with us for scientific research, conferences,
and faculty/student exchanges. PANC supports progress in the
areas of economic development, education, and commerce between
Peru and the United States. USMP promotes itself as the largest
private university and leading culinary college in Peru. They
have 3,500 students and are proudly patterning what they do
after the CIA. Victor Gielisse joined Mark Erickson ’77 and Tim
in the discussions and they will investigate the merits of further
collaboration.
Visitors from CatalanIn this column a few months ago, we reported on the formation of
a partnership between the Alicia Foundation, chaired by Ferran
Adrià, and the CIA. This accord is designed to provide CIA
faculty and students with the opportunity to study and experience
the breadth of Catalan food and wine through visits to leading
kitchens and markets and Chef Adrià’s kitchen. Recently, a
delegation of guests from Barcelona, Spain arrived at the Hyde
Park campus for a lecture series with themes of traditional and
modern Catalan gastronomy as well as the health benefits of the
Mediterranean diet. Our chefs are looking forward to their trip to
Spain and the exchange of ideas that will ensue.
Harvard and the CIA On a recent trip to Harvard University, Mark Erickson, Greg
Drescher, and President Ryan met with Dr. David Eisenberg of the
Harvard Medical School and Dr. Walter Willet of the School of
Public Health to discuss the expansion and strengthening of our
current partnership. They also had meetings with Dr. Jeff Flier,
the dean of the medical school, and Dr. Julio Frenck, the dean
of the school of public health. Dean Frenck, who was Mexico’s
former minister of health, was especially enthusiastic—explaining
that his son wants to attend the CIA. Our relationship with the
Harvard University Medical School and School of Public Health is
longstanding and strong. The two major conferences co-hosted by
the CIA and Harvard—Healthy Kitchens, Healthy Lives and the
Worlds of Healthy Flavors Leadership Retreat—have set the gold
standard for culinary/collegiate partnerships.
Just Like Rock StarsAnthony Bourdain ’78 visited campus to film an episode of his
Travel Channel show, No Reservations. The episode will highlight
New York’s Hudson Valley and focus on Chef Bourdain’s time
here as a CIA student. Honorary alumnus Michael Ruhlman, who
is author of The Making of a Chef and Soul of a Chef, accompanied
Anthony and participated in the taping. While here, Anthony also
conducted a standing-room-only Q&A session for students. They
were very excited about Tony and Michael being on campus and,
as if they were rock stars, swarmed them everywhere they went!
peru meets Cia
(left to right) miChael ruhlman, anthony bourdain, and president ryan
15
Meeting of the MindsGluten-Free SummitIn a culinary world where food allergies are dominating the
discussion and consumers are in search of answers and lifestyle
solutions, the Fourth Annual Gluten-Free Culinary Summit (East)
was held at the CIA on September 12–13, 2009. Award-winning
restaurant chefs, industry experts, and CIA faculty presented gluten-
free culinary and baking demonstrations, panel discussions, and
recipe tastings. CIA Chef Richard Coppedge shared the best-kept
secrets and strategies of gluten-free baking. David Kamen ’88
focused his presentation on alternate grains. David Barry ’95 used
gluten-free batter to create fried delights (something usually off-
limits to the celiac sufferer). Scott Uehlein ’85 of Canyon Ranch,
an award-winning resort with an innovative approach to health and
wellness, encouraged everyone to make their diets sustainable and
non-depriving. He created richly flavored snacks that were gluten-
free. George Chookazian ’93 of Foods by
George demonstrated how easy it is to create
ladyfingers and “yodels” using only a few
ingredients and one of Chef Coppedge’s four
gluten-free flour mixes.
Attendee Christine Hellman, Wegmans
product developer, has special challenges
at her job. “The government has not yet
delineated the parts-per-million
of gluten that will earmark an
item as gluten-free,” according
to Hellman. “At Wegmans
we will only put our gluten-
free label on something if
a manufacturer will stand
behind the claim.” Clearly
the scope and potential of the
gluten-free market is complex and growing. The opportunities for
culinary creativity are enormous. We look forward to broadening
the discussion next year at the Fifth Annual Summit.
Women Share Their SuccessPut six accomplished female chefs/entrepreneurs in a room and
you get very strong and different opinions about what it takes to
start, grow, and maintain a successful business. Hosted by Eve
Felder ’88, associate dean for faculty development and special
projects, the event was sponsored by the CIA’s Women Chefs
and Restaurateurs (WCR) chapter. Attending were 125 students
eager to hear words of wisdom. Lori Daniel ’79, CIA trustee and
founder of Two Chefs on a Roll, explained that while you must
dream, you must also learn what it takes to manage people and
set boundaries. Barbara Sibley and Margaritte
Malfy, co-owners/chefs of La Palapa restaurants,
both agreed that you have to have a strong
trouble-shooting gene and you have to look at
something and want to make it better each and
every day. Laurey Masterton, owner of Laurey’s
Catering, believes that if you provide great
food, take care of your staff like they are family,
look after your customers, and steward
the earth, you are bound for success.
Rohini Dey, owner and CEO of
Vermillion Restaurants in Chicago
and New York City and Maneet
Chuahan ’00, executive chef for
Vermillion Restaurants, shared their
goal of elevating Indian cuisine in the
U.S. as well as the need for high-level
women in the workplace. Students left
with their heads filled with advice and
lots of inspiration.
Cia students present an array of gluten-free goodies
www.ciaalumninetwork.com16
Though working in the foodservice industry can be all-consuming,
many of our CIA alumni manage to carve out time for unusual
hobbies outside of the kitchen.
Richard Hoelzel ’85, Animal RescuerCorporate Chef for Compass Group North America
Richard, along with his partner, Gregg, have rescued countless
animals but only live with 32 of their “babies”—10 dogs, 5 cats, and
17 birds! “With the economy the way it is, many people open the
door and let their pets go or drop them off at a shelter,” Richard
explained. The plight of these animals, some from puppy mills
and animal hoarders, really pulls at his heartstrings. Recently,
Richard and Gregg
accompanied the
ASPCA on a raid
that rescued 95
dogs from animal
hoarders. Clearly
their hobby has
evolved into a
kind of activism
and they struggle
to resist the
urge to take
more animals into their home.
Community members rely on Richard and Gregg to care for
strays, and it is not unusual for them to open their door to find a
pair of big, sad eyes looking up at them. One of most wrenching
moments was when Maggie, a Chihuahua, showed up on their
doorstop with hardened cement all over her body. Naturally, she
got taken in and is now an active and healthy member of
the family!
Meg Rickman ’03, Kite Flyer Student Success Manager, The Cooking and Hospitality Institute
of Chicago
Chicago, the windy city, is the perfect place for Meg Rickman to
live and pursue her no-hassle hobby—kite flying. Meg appreciates
the solitary nature of kite flying as well as its peaceful, relaxing
essence. When Meg flies her kite in open space she can think
more clearly and approach challenges from a different perspective.
The proud owner of seven kites of all different shapes and sizes,
Meg enjoys kite flying as a way to explore different areas of the
“Windy City.” “It’s easy to pack a kite and go—anyone can do
it,” says Meg. She recounts a day when she escaped her busy
kitchen for a break on a nearby college campus. As the kite gained
altitude, Meg heard a chorus of “oohs” and “aahs” from a crowd of
student onlookers. And when, sadly, the kite crashed into a tree,
Meg heard a loud, sympathetic “oooh.” Everyone, even perfect
strangers, enjoyed the magic of the kite. Now, 10 years later, Meg
smiles when she returns to the campus and sees the ill-fated kite,
still nestled in the top of the tree.
Alumsand their hobbiesBy Jennifer O’Neill
mise en place no.51, February 2010 17
Steve Preston ’78, Storm Chaser Part-Time Caterer and Firefighter
When the storm of 1966 brought life to a standstill in the
small town of Penfield in upstate New York, Steve Preston
turned into an inveterate “weather junkie.” These days, he
is never far from the Weather Channel and the Doppler
radar. Compelled to chase storms, he has a scanner in his
car that is hooked up to the National Weather Service. He
believes that weather is becoming more dramatic. Where he
lives, the lake effect can mean yearly snowfalls of 200–300
inches. He loves the thrill of the chase, but he must always
balance that with his job as a fireman who has to be nearby
to work rescue during a storm. One memorable moment came
during a blizzard when Steve had to deliver a baby in the front
seat of a pickup truck because the parents got stuck en route to the
hospital. What keeps Steve chasing down the “Big One?” “Weather
is the one thing in life that money can’t control. It’s Mother Nature
kicking butt!”
Joseph Lucci ’07, Drag RacerLead Line Cook, Union League Café
It’s all about the adrenaline rush for Joseph Lucci.
He became fascinated by drag racing at the age
of 15 when his father took him to a racetrack
near his home. Joseph was inspired
to attend a special school in
Florida to earn his Top Fuel
dragster license. Speeding
down a racetrack at 300
miles per hour has
not been without
risk. Three years ago, Joseph’s dragster went into “tire shake” and
the tires could not grip the race surface. He “dropped a cylinder,”
lost horsepower, and slammed into a concrete wall at 200 mph.
Thankfully, Joseph escaped the accident relatively unharmed. Why
continue to take the risk? “There’s nothing faster on the ground than
an 8,000 horsepower Top Fuel dragster—nothing even comes close,”
Joseph explains.
Lyde Buchtenkirch-Biscardi ’72, BagpiperC.M.C., Retired Senior
Instructor, CIA
As a child, Lyde was intrigued by
bagpiping. But, according to her,
“there were no female bagpipers
back then. I aspired to be the
first female bagpiper.” So, it was
a stroke of luck when she noticed
a local woman offering an adult
education bagpiping class. Some
lessons later, Lyde became one
of 50 bagpipers in the Amerscot
Highland Pipe Band. She and
her band mates march in over
20 parades a year. They also
perform at weddings, fairs, and
the Scottish Highland Games.
During one parade it began pouring just as the band “stepped off”
to play. Though the pipers were soaking wet and the roads started to
flood, the band played on. Eventually, all they could do was laugh
hysterically at the sight they made.
Jennifer O’Neill is a CIA alumni relations officer.
www.ciaalumninetwork.com18
My New Orleans: The CookbookBy John Besh ’92
This book is John Besh’s
celebration of the food
he loved as a boy
growing up just outside
of New Orleans on
Lake Pontchartrain.
It grew out of John’s
determination to
capture for all time the
seasonal wonder that is New Orleans
cuisine. Each chapter opens with one of John’s vivid
memories that bring us into his world of fresh, local ingredients
seasoned by gatherings with family and friends. Chapters with
names like Crawfish and Rice, Feast Days, Shrimp Season, Creole
Tomatoes, Gumbo Weather, and Preserving Summer ensure that
the reader will find something to suit their tastes from every season
of the year.
Easy Gluten-Free BakingBy Elizabeth Barbone ’99
This totally accessible
book offers easy-to-
follow instructions and
techniques for creating
gluten-free bakery delights.
Anyone who copes with the challenge of
preparing gluten-free desserts will find comfort in the pages
of this book. There is even a section called “Tastes Like,” which
provides recipes that go toe-to-toe with such iconic baked goods as
Devil Dogs, Honey Maid Graham Crackers, Nabisco Nilla Wafers,
Ritz Crackers, and Girl Scout Samoas.
GingerbreadBy Jennifer Lindner
McGlinn ’93
Enjoy the
wonderful flavor
of gingerbread
anytime.
Gingerbread
celebrates gingery goodies from
the homey to the haute. The recipes, all with
entertaining and informative histories, take an in-depth look at
crucial ingredients from a fun and informative perspective. The
book offers something for everyone’s tastebuds, from traditional
gingersnaps to the flawless gingerbread house. Lusciously
photographed, this book is a delicious treat for you or the food
enthusiast in your life.
Book Shelf
Chocolate and Confections at HomeBy Peter Greweling
As a home candy
maker’s guide to
creating stunning
chocolates and confections,
this book offers detailed knowledge for
anyone who wants to make truly amazing confections and
candies. CIA Chef-Instructor and Certified Master Baker Peter
Greweling provides recipes and techniques for making even the
most ambitious treats. Richly illustrated with more than 150
full-color photos, this inspiring book offers details on chocolates,
truffles, toffees and taffies, fudge and pralines, marshmallows,
jellies, nuts, and much more. It’s the ideal resource for anyone
who wants to graduate from chocolate chip cookies to more
decadent delights.
mise en place no.51, February 2010 19
More than 200 graduates and guests
representing 22 graduation years and
23 states spent the weekend of October
2–3 reconnecting, learning, dining, and
dancing at Reunion 2009 on the Hyde
Park campus. At the welcome reception,
old friends and new acquaintances mingled and shared “war” stories of their days as CIA
students. After a delicious dinner at Escoffier or American Bounty, alumni were pitted
against students in a raucous and heated game of Culinary Jeopardy. Once again, the students
prevailed! On Saturday, after President Ryan shared a CIA update, the doors were flung open to a
choice of lectures, panel discussions, and demos on everything from cake decorating to going green.
The stunning finale to the weekend was the dinner/dance prepared by senior B.P.S. students as part
of their Restaurant Operations class. Everyone got into the spirit and danced the night away.
Everyone was having a grand time at the Halloween/
Talent Drag Show in October. Students donned wild
costumes in honor of the ghoulish celebration, while
others dressed in drag—bringing their alter egos to the
stage to entertain the party goers. A great time was
had by all!
Reunion Weekend
Students MakeHalloween a Screeeam!
aliCe in wonderland
alex szCzeny as Cher
harry potter and his friends
brian wagner
20
It was fitting that Cynthia Gold, the presenter at the August 27
Zagat Lecture Series on Service, has as her culinary focus an
ingredient that epitomizes the art of service. Around the world the
taking of tea is an important ritual, and for some it’s considered
an art form. For Cynthia, tea sommelier at The Boston Park Plaza
Hotel, tea represents the ultimate test of skill both in presentation
and inventiveness. Her passion for this culinary super ingredient
knows no bounds.
Ms. Gold cut her culinary teeth at Johnson & Wales and continued
her education with baking and pastry courses at the CIA. But it
was her mentor, Helen Gustafson, a renowned tea expert, who
exposed her to the world of tea. Gustafson was the first person
to bring fine teas to the menus of Chez Panisse and other great
restaurants.
During her presentation, Ms. Gold’s vivid descriptions of her
travels to tea-growing countries like Sri Lanka and India brought
the practice of growing, harvesting, and processing tea to life for
CIA students. She demonstrated and described the proper way to
steep various teas, but the bulk of her presentation focused on the
culinary uses of tea. As with wine, terroir is an excellent way to
think of pairing tea with foods. However, unlike wine, there are
relatively few regions in the world that grow tea, thus limiting the
types of cuisines that would naturally pair with them. This doesn’t
mean that tea doesn’t pair well with food; it just means that we
need to use the tastes, textures, and aromatics of tea to determine
pairing rather than depending on matching regions. As a pioneer
in the areas of pairing tea with food and infusing beverages
with tea, Ms. Gold was able to show our students what she had
discovered during her travels.
Each lecture attendee was given a plate with a sampling of
cheeses, tea-infused pork, and smoked salmon. Then they were
asked to pair these very different foods with two beverages—white
port infused with black tea with lavender/rose petals, and white
port infused with black tea and ginger/lychee. It was clear that the
astringency of some teas could stand up to rich cheeses, oily fish,
and spicy foods. For instance, the high astringency of a first-flush
Darjeeling with its light floral notes matched well against a triple
crème Explorator cheese. The astringency of the tea cleanses the
palate, lightening the experience, and preventing a deadening
of the taste buds. The extended sweet finish of an oolong tea can
cool the palate and tame hot spicy foods. In addition, alcoholic
beverages infused with tea bring a whole new aspect to the drinks.
Ms. Gold’s presentation briefly touched on cooking with tea. She
highlighted its benefits in braising and poaching, in curing and
brining, and as a finishing touch to a dish. For example, brining
meat with tea helps to reduce the amount of salt needed to
accomplish the perfect flavor and tenderness.
By the time her talk was over, it was clear to all who attended that
tea time is any time.
Tea Time Not Just for the Afternoon
Liberally grind black pepper and squeeze the lemon over each side of both filets. Spread ¼ of the salt/sugar mixture out on the plastic wrap to be roughly the size and shape of the salmon sides. Place one side on the mixture, skin side down. On the flesh side of the salmon, sprinkle 1/2 of the chopped herbs and half of the tea. Spread 1/2 of the salt/sugar mixture over the tea. Then sprinkle the remaining tea and herbs over that. Place the other side of the salmon flesh down on the herbs and press together gently. Spread the remaining 1/4 of the salt/sugar mixture over the skin of the top filet.
Bring plastic wrap around salmon and wrap tight. Place in a hotel pan. Place a second hotel pan into the first and weight it so it presses down on the fish. Refrigerate. Turn fish every 12 hours and check for doneness—a firm feel and translucent look. Depending upon the thickness of the filets, the salmon should take somewhere between 24 and 48 hours to cure.
Cynthia Gold’s Jasmine Tea-cured Gravlax
1 cup kosher salt
1 cup brown sugar
2 sides of salmon, preferably with skin on
2 teaspoons finely chopped garlic
Fresh ground black pepper
1 lemon
1 handful coarsely chopped dill or other herbs
1 cup Jasmine Green Tea leaves
Blend kosher salt and brown sugar and set aside.
Spread a large piece of plastic wrap on the table. Lay sides of salmon on
plastic and spread garlic evenly over the skinless sides of the filets.
21original art by julian landa
www.ciaalumninetwork.com22
A Toast to Our New Beverage Program!By Shelly Loveland
You’re a seasoned industry professional, so you know better than
anyone—beverages are big business. Most of us learned what we
know about wines, spirits, beers, coffee, tea, and specialty drinks
on the job. But wouldn’t it have been great if you could have
gained that knowledge in a matter of weeks rather than years?
Today, aspiring hospitality and beverage professionals have
exactly this opportunity. That’s because the CIA at Greystone has
just introduced a new 30-week Accelerated Wine and Beverage
Certificate Program (AWBP), perfect for anyone with qualified
experience who is interested in preparing for a career in wine,
hospitality, or front of the house—as well as for chefs who want to
broaden their understanding of the “beverage” side of the food
and beverage equation.
Built with Industry Needs in MindAfter receiving an increasing number of inquiries—especially from
recent college graduates—for a longer-term wines program, the
Greystone team conducted a survey of several hundred industry
employers. Participants, from wine companies to wine shop
owners to restaurants, were asked to rate and prioritize the skills
they sought in job candidates. Service standards, hospitality, and
wine and beverage knowledge came out on top. “It helped us
delineate what a graduate of this program should be able to do,”
says Director of Education Adam Busby, C.M.C. “The program
was built with the end user in mind, with real, timely data from
real businesses.”
The AWBP at a Glance The resulting AWBP will take full advantage of Greystone’s Napa
Valley location and state-of-the-art Rudd Center for Professional
Wine Studies. In just 30 weeks, students will gain the education
and credentials they need to prepare for a wide variety of
beverage management careers in industry segments such as fine
dining, casual dining, beverage wholesale and retail, and wine
companies and wineries.
The only program of its kind in the United States, the AWBP
prepares students with a strong foundation of knowledge in wines,
spirits, and specialty beverages. It also provides professional
service and food and beverage pairing instruction in every course,
strengthening these all-important skills. The AWBP curriculum is
built on the same Progressive Learning Year (PLY) model that has
served as the foundation for the college’s degree programs since
1976. “The AWBP is the wine and beverage equivalent of what
we turn out in a culinary student,” says Chef Busby. “There’s this
‘CIA ethos’ that our students graduate with. They’re professional,
they’re well-rounded, and they present themselves well—and in the
wine business, that’s important.”
Along with receiving a rigorous, hands-on education, AWBP stu-
dents will graduate with two valuable additions to their résumé—
a CIA certificate and a Certified Wine Professional™ (C.W.P.)
designation.
Who Should Apply…and When?The AWBP is designed for graduates of bachelor’s or associate
degree programs in hospitality management, culinary arts
management, and related fields, as well as other candidates with
qualified industry experience. The program begins September
13, 2010, with an application priority date of April 15, 2010.
Learn More and Spread the Word! Encourage aspiring hospitality and beverage professionals you
know to learn more about the AWBP. Visit www.ciaprochef.
com/winecertificate, e-mail [email protected], or call
1-800-CULINARY (285-4627).
Shelly Loveland in a writer/editor at the CIA.
mise en place no.51, February 2010 23
When you were here, they may have been called “fellows,”
“teaching assistants,” or “TAs.” Now they’re referred to as
“managers-in-training” or “MITs.” It’s not that we can’t make
up our minds about what to call them, it’s that we keep upping
the game and increasing the role and depth of experience for
this special group of CIA alumni. In fact, the selection criteria
mirror many of the same
standards we have for
our faculty candidates.
The Manager-in-Training
program has been
redesigned to set the
industry benchmark for
post-graduate, on-the-
job training programs
for culinary, baking
and pastry, and service
management professionals.
Available to all A.O.S. and
B.P.S. graduates, the MIT
program is open to you, no
matter how long it’s been
since you left the hallowed
halls of the CIA with your
degree! The yearlong
program has opportunities
for MITs in the kitchens
and dining rooms of all
five public restaurants on
the Hyde Park campus,
the baking and pastry arts
department, quantity food
production classes, meat
and seafood fabrication,
and other key departments throughout the college. At the core of
the program are self-directed learning modules—task assignments
that are specific to each MIT’s curricular area. An assigned faculty
mentor oversees skills development, and provides direct coaching,
guidance, and daily training. In addition, curriculum deans
oversee the faculty mentors, scheduling, job descriptions, and
evaluations.
Unique to this program is the MIT Society, an optional group that
develops self-funding activities to raise additional professional
development dollars. Using start-up monies from the college, the
club can take all profits from its team-focused projects and use
them to pay for professional development courses, online seminars,
public speakers, and ProChef® Certification for its members.
Regarded as a CIA
employee, the MIT has
a 40-hour work week,
receives an hourly
wage, accrues vacation
and sick time, and has
goals and evaluations
in much the same way
that all staff members
at the college do. The
increased accountability
and high expectations of
the new MIT program
have helped create a
more challenging and
satisfying experience for
our graduates. “It is both
a leadership opportunity
and a great way to
continue my education
in an area that interests
me,” explains Kevin
McCann ’09, an MIT
in meat fabrication. The
30-year-old Syracuse,
NY native hopes to
open an Internet-based
sausage company. “I
work with meat and charcuterie every day. I would never be able
to get this much hands-on experience working with any other
butcher. This is as much a part of my education as anything I’ve
done at the CIA.”
To learn more about this exciting opportunity for CIA graduates,
contact MIT Program Manager and Associate Dean for Culinary
Fundamentals and Assessment Lou Jones at l_ [email protected]
or 845-451-1654.
You Can Come Back! Manager-in-Training Programs for Alums
Chef thomas sChneller (right) mentoring mit kevin mCCann ‘09 (left)
www.ciaalumninetwork.com24
THE RATINGS GAMEThe quest for diamonds and stars
Arriving guests are greeted with warmth and appreciation. Cold
beverages are served well-iced—the cubes solid, never hollow or
crushed. The bread presentation is distinctive and includes an
excellent array of fresh, flavorful choices. Guests are served their
meal simultaneously, course by course, and it’s cleared away
in the same manner. The staff does not require prompting. In
fact, they stand ready in anticipation of each guest’s every need.
Mignardises are offered at the conclusion of a totally satisfying
meal. As they prepare for departure, guests are
helped into overcoats, cars, and then graciously
bidden a fond farewell with the thorough attention
expected of an occasion of this sort. Have you just
had afternoon tea with Mrs. Obama at the White
House or dinner with Prince Harry after a day
of polo? No, you’ve just experienced a few of the
infinite number of carefully scripted interactions
that are used by inspectors to judge a restaurant or
hotel when earning its top honor or rating.
The Rating GuidesOpinions abound, and restaurant reviewers in your
local newspaper, regional magazine, or favorite
Internet blog are not shy about sharing theirs.
But they often represent a broad range of critical
expertise. So whom do you trust? The consumer
wants unbiased and objective information to help them make
informed decisions when traveling or dining. Here is a look at
some of the most respected companies that publish the ratings that
restaurant patrons rely on.
The Michelin GuideThe original and possibly the most respected rating guide, The
Michelin Guide has been evaluating and recommending restaurants
and hotels for over a century. In 1900, when Paris was preparing
for the World’s Fair, the Michelin brothers, Édouard and André,
developed the guide to help motorists travel safely and well in the
newly introduced automobile—sporting Michelin tires, no doubt!
Michelin produces many road and travel guides but the Michelin
Red Guide is home to the highly coveted restaurant ratings.
Restaurants are given from one to three stars with three denoting
“exceptional cuisine worthy of the journey.” The Michelin Guide is
currently produced in 23 European countries. In 2006, the first
North American guide for New York City was published.
While the exact rating criterion for stars remain carefully guarded
and unpublished, restaurants are given Michelin stars based on five
measures that include: quality of the product, mastery of flavor
and cooking, “personality” of the cuisine, value for the money, and
consistency from visit to visit. Stars are awarded to restaurants
offering the finest cooking, regardless of cuisine
style. Michelin stars are only given for what is on
the plate. They do not take into consideration
interior decoration, service quality, or table
settings.
Mobil Travel GuideCreated in 1958 following the introduction of
the U.S. interstate highway system, the guide
was designed to encourage people to get in their
cars and explore the country. Mobil, originator
of the five-star rating, has set the standard for
what constitutes a world-class lodging and
dining experience.
Mobil inspection criteria include classifications
such as graciousness, efficiency, and luxury.
Within these classifications are more than 500
criteria that assess staff appearance, behavior,
and skill level as well as food quality, housekeeping, and concierge
services, to name just a few.
Of the more than 8,000 hotels Mobil Travel Guide rated in 2009,
only 44 achieved Five-Star Award status. Up until 2007, Mobil
rated only North American properties, but in 2008 launched the
international star ratings in Hong Kong, Macau, and Beijing.
AAA Travel ClubIn 1902, only 23,000 cars were on the roads in the U.S. compared
to 17 million horses. That didn’t stop auto enthusiasts in nine
different car clubs across the nation from forming the American
Automobile Association (AAA). But it wasn’t until 1963 that they
adopted a rating system of hotels and restaurants for their tour
book. This would later become the “AAA Diamond Rating®
System.”
By Darin Schulz ’83
25
AAA ratings reflect a combination of overall food, service, décor,
and ambiance offered by the establishment. The highest rating
achievable is five diamonds and it is conferred on establishments
that “consistently provide a world-class experience.” The inspector
rates everything from dishware and cutlery to printed menus, from
the manner in which the patron is greeted to food ingredients,
presentation, and preparation.
Of the more than 60,000 approved and rated establishments that
AAA listed in 2009, only 103 hotels and 59 restaurants achieved
their coveted Five-Diamond Award—a mere 0.28%.
The Inspectors The inspector’s job actually starts well before he or she arrives at
the restaurant, and will include making a reservation, often using
an alias. All senses are used, not just taste buds. The inspector’s
eyes discern every move in the dining room as well as the plate
presentation. His nose discovers the nuances of the cuisine. His ears
attune themselves to the sounds and tempo of the restaurant. He
specializes in looking like any other customer.
Inspectors are full-time employees who have undergone extensive
training. The food is not the only thing under examination.
Beverage programs undergo the same rigorous scrutiny. Most
inspectors have vast experience in the restaurant industry.
At hotels, inspectors generally spend a few days interacting with staff,
having a drink at the bar, ordering room service, visiting the spa, and
taking advantage of other services that a regular guest would enjoy.
These “undercover agents” may even discreetly use stopwatches,
recorders, and checklists to make sure their findings are as accurate as
possible.
The Crème de la CrèmeSo what does it take to earn the coveted diamond or star ratings? The
answer seems to lie in exceeding expectations time and time again
without fail. The flawless dining experience begins with a maître d’
who leads an impeccable staff through service that attends to every
detail while remaining essentially unobtrusive. Menus are made
up of the finest ingredients used innovatively and imaginatively,
reflecting the art and the science of fine dining. And while it’s true that
a trend-setting chef and accomplished team in the kitchen coupled
with a refined front-of-house service staff takes a significant budget,
the payoff is worth it. Leisure travelers and fine diners have begun
to separate the wheat from the chaff of restaurant reviewers and are
increasingly turning to the tried-and-true raters whose standards have
been tested over time.
Darin Schulz has served as sous chef at the Greenbrier Hotel/Resort in West
Virginia and as sommelier/dining room manager at the Broadmoor Hotel/
Resort in Colorado.
www.ciaalumninetwork.com26
Winners ALLAt the Société Culinaire Philanthropique’s 141st Annual Salon of
Culinary Arts, the CIA chefs and students all came out winners. The
International Hotel/Motel Restaurant Show was the setting for the
November 2009 competition. The Société—the oldest association of
chefs, cooks, and pastry chefs in the United States—was founded in
April 1865 by a group of French chefs.
Many of America’s most famous chefs are counted among its 400
members. These men and women are responsible for the organization
of the annual Salon of Culinary Arts, which has done so much for
the promotion of French cuisine in the U.S. since 1866. The Société’s
members considered the yearly organization of these Salons as an
inheritance, to maintain and grow.
This year’s team coaches were Brad Barnes ’87, C.M.C.; Thomas
Griffiths ’80, C.M.C; and Thomas Vaccaro ’85, C.M.B. The winning
team included CIA faculty members Chef David Bruno ’88, Best
Meat; Chef Phillip Crispo, Best Fish; Chef Alain DeCoster, Gold,
Seafood Platter; Chef Hubert Martini, Silver, Duck Platter; Chef
Francisco Migoya, Gold, Chocolate Center Piece; Chef John Reilly
’88, Gold, Lamb Platter; Chef Sergio Remolina, Gold, Seafood Platter;
Chef Hans Welker, Best in Show, Bread; recent graduate Seon Young
Jeong ’09, Best in Show, Wedding Cake; and student Jacqueline
Mearman, Gold, Special Occasion Cake. When the Grand Prize of
Honor was bestowed, our own Chef Phillip Crispo won for cooking
and Seon Young Jeong won for pastry. Congratulations to all!
Enduring ConnectionsFor the past seven years, Dale L. Miller ’79 has co-hosted the Cor-
CIA Food, Wine, and Golf Classic at the Albany Country Club to
raise money for student scholarships at both the CIA and Cornell’s
School of Hotel Management. Every year after the event, Dale arrives
at the CIA with a check that really makes a difference. This year he
presented the Alumni Scholarship Fund with a check in the amount
of $26,000. We are so grateful for the energy, commitment, and care
that Dale puts into this major fund-raiser year after year. He is already
planning next year’s event for Monday, June 21, 2010. Save the date!
KUDOS
the winning Cia team
seon young jeong and her best in show Cake
mise en place no.51, February 2010 27
And when it’s time for our annual Alumni Across America fund-raiser,
there is no one more committed, enthusiastic, or cheerful than Dave
Miguel ’78. He calls in his markers and fellow alumni chefs to prepare
amazing food for diners at the Westerly Yacht Club in Westerly, RI.
Each year, he and his team raise thousands of dollars for the Alumni
Scholarship Fund. In his “other” life, Dave is the department head
of the culinary arts program at Grasso Southeastern Technical High
School in Groton, CT.
Fighting the Good FightGeorge Chookazian ’93 was honored at the 8th Annual Gala to
benefit the Celiac Disease Center of Columbia University for his
commitment and dedication to improving the lives of celiac patients.
His company, Foods by George, was one of the pioneers in the gluten-
free food movement. George is also a member of the American Celiac
Disease Alliance—an advocacy group based in Washington, DC that
petitions the government on behalf of people with celiac disease and
brings together industry, researchers, and support groups to chart the
course of celiac awareness and treatment.
Crustacean CreationFall is peak season for Maine lobster, with harvesters bringing in more
lobster in October than any other month of the year. So it was fitting
that recent B.P.S. graduate MacKenzie Arrington ’09 captured the
title of 2009 Maine Lobster Chef of the Year presented by the Maine
Lobster Promotion Council this past October. His recipe for roasted
lobster tail on braised cabbage and cornbread took top prize. As a
native of Boothbay Harbor, ME, Mackenzie has a lifelong affinity for
the product. Consider too that his mother, Chef Margaret McLellan,
won the same title in 2008! Well done, Mackenzie.
Taking on the WorldRepresenting the United States, CIA B.P.S. junior Craig Growney
received a Medallion of Excellence at the 2009 WorldSkills
Competition in Calgary, Canada in September. The four-day culinary
competition featured 22 hours of prep and cooking, during which
Craig prepared canapés, duck and lamb entrées, a fish course, a hot
dessert, a plate of mini desserts, and a mystery basket from which
he produced a two-course meal. For the previous nine months, he
trained rigorously under the watchful eye of Chef Bruce Mattel ’80.
Congratulations to them both!
george aCCepts his award
Craig observed by judge and onlookers
Craig and Chef bruCe mattel worked tirelessly to prepare Craig for worldskills
www.ciaalumninetwork.com28
Susie DavidsonCoordinator, The Julia Child Foundation for Gastronomy and the Culinary Arts
How did the Julia Child Foundation get started?Julia Child created the Julia Child Foundation to provide
charitable gifts, after her death, to those institutions she supported
during her lifetime. The Foundation’s Board of Trustees, who
all knew Julia personally, began giving grants in 2008—just
three years after she passed away. Many of the recipients are
establishments that Child had taken an active interest in, such
as the CIA, while others are newer organizations that the board
has decided correspond with her vision of making food more
accessible through the media. The Foundation’s scholarships are
not based on need, but rather are given to institutions where the
money will be allocated to a recipient most likely to carry out
her legacy.
What is Julia Child’s legacy in today’s world?
Julia was a trailblazer when it came to getting people interested
in food, eating, and cooking. Her natural curiosity and innovative
spirit helped her see both old and new forms of communication
as channels through which to reach the public. Since Mastering the
Art of French Cooking made its debut, food journalism has made
huge leaps. Cookbooks devoted solely to ice cream vie for your
attention with books exploring the issue of ethical eating. The
emergence of food blogs and YouTube has furthered extended
the reach of food in the media. Although Child did not live to
experience these new frontiers, her ultimate goal was to instill her
love of food in as many people as possible via the media.
What does the Foundation hope the scholarship recipients will do with the award?We want the recipients to be encouraged to pursue food
journalism—keeping Julia Child’s dream afloat for future
generations. The recognition that comes with receiving this
award should help open doors in the food media business for
the recipient. The Foundation chooses to give to organizations
that we feel produce individuals who are both food savvy and
intellectually curious. That is why The Culinary Institute of
America has received scholarships for two years in a row. Julia
Child strongly believed in culinary education and the CIA.
Why Give?It’s a wonderful career, but you need really good training. Of course, there is the CIA in New York and California, where you can get really fine training.”
Julia Child, 2000
“
julia Child with Cia students and faCulty, 1990
mise en place no.51, February 2010
Giving’s Impact
Andrea MorrisB.P.S. Candidate 2010
Recipient: Julia Child Foundation Scholarship
College Highlights:My externship at Picholine in New York City was an invaluable
experience for me. Living across the country from my family and
far from my comfort zone really taught me about myself. I had to
figure out how to make my way in both the city and a high-end
kitchen without guidance. Needless to say, there was a lot of trial
and error, but I came out of the experience a stronger cook and a
more independent person.
My CIA wine class proved to be another highlight. It really
opened my eyes and my palate to what wine could do for food,
and vice versa. Ever since the class, I have taken an active interest
in the wine and beverage industry, reading periodicals on the
topic and learning about it as much as a 20-year old—who still can’t
drink legally—can. I’m looking forward to continuing my wine
education during the wine seminar that is coming up for my class
in April 2010.
Hopes for the Future:Ever since I was young, I was interested in hospitality—throwing
tea parties for my sisters and stuffed animals. It is still a priority
and joy of mine, and I plan on continuing doing so as I advance
in my career. After graduation, I plan on moving to New York
City for as long as I can stand the snow, and then moving back to
California’s Bay Area where I grew up. I’d like to continue to study
the tradition, evolution, and political debate surrounding the wine
and beverage industry.
Food writing is another area I’d like to pursue. I love developing
recipes as well as studying and discussing gastronomy. M.F.K.
Fisher and Michael Pollan are both writers whose work I respect
and aspire to emulate.
The ImpactI cannot properly express my gratitude for the scholarship. Aside
from the generous gift, which has helped me concentrate more
on my schoolwork without worrying about student loans, it has
opened my eyes to the possibilities of food in the media. Before,
I thought about food writing as something I might try “on the
side” in my free time. Now I am looking at it as an actual career
to consider. It has reminded me that my education at the CIA is
about more than just cooking!
“I love reading, writing, and dancing. They allow me to escape the daily grind. Dancing leaves me feeling free and creative and brings joy to people—which is something I strive to do in all my endeavors whether it’s dancing, cooking, or writing.”
29
www.ciaalumninetwork.com30
“I can still remember my first experience in a professional kitchen.
I was in fourth grade participating in a ‘job shadow’ program with
a local chef,” Rico Griffone ’05 recounts. “I can vividly recall
standing in the corner watching flames billowing from the sauté
pan. I’m not sure how, but I just knew that is what I wanted to do.”
Like many latchkey kids raised in busy, frugal single-parent house-
holds, Rico’s food experience growing up was limited to boxed
dinners with a dash of salt and canned, processed vegetables. Food
was a necessity, not a luxury, and dining out was rare. For special
occasions his mother would take his brother and him to Bonanza
where their eyes would bulge with excitement over the selection
of puddings mounded high. As Rico puts it, “I was born with a
plastic spork in my
mouth.”
It would be several
years before Rico’s
desire to cook became
a passion for making
and experiencing great
food. He was bartend-
ing at The Bug Jar—a
local punk-rock club in
Rochester, NY—when
two serendipitous
events occurred; his
boss opened a new
restaurant called MEX
and he met his wife
Laura. “I jumped at
the chance to run the kitchen at MEX,” he recounts.
By the time he had gotten to know Laura and her family, Rico
had mastered a limited selection of dishes appropriate for a
modern Mexican restaurant. He was ready for something more.
That “more” included getting married and enrolling at the CIA.
“Laura’s mother, Marsha, gave me The Making of a Chef by Michael
Ruhlman. After reading it, I decided that the only place for me
was The Culinary Institute of America. I knew I’d be surrounded
by great chefs.”
Laura and Rico married just before he enrolled at the CIA. A few
years later they had a son, Jonas; Laura was teaching; and Rico
worked at a country club. The birth of their son and Laura’s expe-
riences with unhealthy, obese schoolchildren significantly influ-
enced Rico’s food philosophy. He recognized similarities between
the food he was raised on and the food eaten by many of Laura’s
students. Rico began making Jonas’s food from scratch. One day
while talking to his father-in-law Bruce about the effects of diet on
chronic disease, Rico decided he should focus his culinary talents
and food knowledge to help transform school food programs.
“Bruce told me to find a partner organization and I immediately
thought of the CIA,” Rico explained. “Bruce and Marsha believe
wholeheartedly that if we can change children’s relationship to
food at an early age, we can improve their prospects of becoming
healthy adults. They
have dedicated The
Bruce and Marsha
Moskowitz Founda-
tion to this mission.”
This past summer,
the CIA received
a grant from the
foundation to inves-
tigate opportunities
to improve school
foodservice and,
ultimately, children’s
health. Today, Rico is
working with fellow
alumnus and CIA
Professor in Culi-
nary Arts Mark Ainsworth ’86 to connect chefs to schools, and
connect schoolchildren to healthier, more flavorful food options.
Although just beginning, the initiative has a worthy goal to create
a network of chefs and resources that promote improving school
food operations and menus for healthy kids.
If you are interested in learning more or would like to get
involved, contact Rico at [email protected].
Jenifer McEnery is a CIA advancement officer.
By Jenifer McEnery
Menufor Healthy Kids:)
mise en place no.51, February 2010 31
Dear Fellow Alums:
This past October marked the two-year anniversary of the Alumni Council’s
founding. It’s been a busy and productive couple of years.
The Council is always looking for ways to serve our alumni. With the tight
job market, many alumni have reached out to the Career Services and Alumni
Relations Offices to seek job advice and assistance. In addition, you have
access to more than 39,000 fellow alumni. But to build a strong network and
make sure it works for you, we need your help to keep your employment
information up-to-date. Here are some reasons why:
• We want to know what you’ve been up to, and so do your classmates!
• Faculty like to invite our alumni to be guest lecturers or to conduct demos.
• We turn to our alumni in certain fields to provide expertise for newspaper articles,
mise en place magazine, conferences, and events both on and off campus.
• It helps us assist students seeking career advice.
So be sure to update your information! It’s easy. Just visit www.ciaalumninetwork.com or
e-mail us at [email protected].
Remember, You Make Us Better!
Best regards,
Waldy Malouf ’75, Council Chair
P.S. Please contact me at [email protected] if you are interested in getting involved
with the Alumni Council.
alumni hall (now farquharson hall) CirCa 1976
Alumni Council Corner
www.ciaalumninetwork.com32
’76 Daniel G. Eroh is the food
service broker specialist for
CDC Food Service Brokerage Company
in Willow Grove, PA. Daniel and his wife
Constance adopted their daughter Lena
from St. Petersburg, Russia in November
2005. They have traveled to Moscow and
St. Petersburg to visit Lena’s homeland.
Daniel sells foodservice products from
companies like Tyson, Rich Products
Corp., McCormick, Sysco, and Lamb
Weston & Fishery. Joseph Petras is a
chef-instructor for Erwin Technical Center
in Tampa, FL. He would love to hear
from his fellow classmates.
’77 Brian Dwyer is the general
manager for The Brooklawn
Country Club in Fairfield, CT.
’78 Jim Beley is the general man-
ager for The Umstead Hotel
and Spa in Cary, NC. The Umstead is a
Mobil Five-Star and AAA Five-Diamond
hotel.
’79 Kevin E. Carroll is the
COO/general manager of
the Loxahatchee Club in Jupiter, FL.
Loxahatchee was recently re-named a
Platinum Club of America by Club Lead-
ers Forum and ranked ninth of all golf
clubs in the country. Carroll was recently
elected secretary treasurer of the Club
Managers Association of America, where
’61 Robert J. Kennedy retired
from the Greater Lawrence
Technical High School in Andover, MA,
where he taught for more than 37 years.
’63 Ronald E. Sieveri retired
in 2006 from his position as
COO/general manager at the President
Country Club in West Palm Beach, FL.
’64 Walter H. Pulsifer III has
retired.
’67 Leonard DeRosa is vice
president of restaurant opera-
tions at Hilltop Steak House in Saugus,
MA.
’73 Edward Brust is a coach
driver for Coach Bus Com-
pany in Lancaster, PA. Edward married
in June 1999.
’74 Nick Spinelli, Jr. is execu-
tive chef for Kraft Foods in
Glenview, IL. He recently received the
2009 Lifetime Achievement Award from
the Research Chefs Association.
Bruyn Frederick Polhemus ’54
Franklin Knight Brown ’58
George Damianos ’64
Thomas R. Hewish ’69
Paul R. Stetz ’72
Geoffrey Birtle ’73
David Pfurr ’74
Eugene J. Maddalena ’76
Kevin F. Taylor ’76
Thomas M. Petrie ’78
Peter A. Ciccarone ’79
Sharon Scott Lucas ’79
David Charles Marsh ’81
Carl Becerra ’82
Anthony P. Chiorazzi ’83
John A. Dyes ’85
Glenn Boughton ’88
David M. Lockwood ’88
David Bradley ’91
Christopher Culver, Sr. ’91
David Frank ’93
Adam Ike ’94
Margaret Votta ’97
Christopher Davis, Jr. ’98
James Silva ’02
Thomas Walter Barker ’04
In Memoriam
Ahoy Matey! When Jessica Reale ’05 was at the CIA, she could look out most any
window and see the glistening waters of the Hudson River flow by.
After graduation, she headed to Florida to supervise the lounge at
the Four Seasons Resort Palm Beach, where she could simply look
up and glimpse the Atlantic Ocean. Heading north to Portland, ME
to work as assistant manager at the famous Irish Pub Ri Ra, Jessica
could at least sniff the nearby sea air. Now, she not only can see and
smell the ocean, she can “feel” it! Jessica’s new job is chef aboard the
World Ocean School’s landmark schooner the Roseway. The crew
provides challenging educational programs for juniors and seniors
from public high schools. Bringing students on board for a week at a
time, the crew ties the historical sailing experience to math, science,
English, and social studies curricula. The boat and crew split their
time between St. Croix, U.S. Virgin Islands and Boston, MA. Next
summer, they’ll travel as part of the core fleet of the Great Lakes
United Tall Ships Challenge.
Jessica prepares three meals a day for the crew of 10, onboard a ship
that is heeling and being buffeted by the wind. Jessica describes the
job as “pretty crazy. When I’m filleting a fresh fish 800 miles off shore
or being lurched around the galley in 15-foot swells, I wonder how I
got myself here. But there is no room for boredom and every day I
find myself amazed at something new,” she says.
The boat is a small community where everyone is dependent on each
other to do their jobs impeccably. That means, even if Jessica is sick
from high seas, she must still produce creative and flavorful meals that
satisfy. “The crew is counting on me,” she explains. Now in St. Croix
for the winter months, Jessica can immerse herself in an adventure like
few others ever get to experience…on the sea.
33
he has served on the board since 2004.
David Katz is owner of Katz Capital
Management in Paramus, NJ.
’81 Stephen Buckley is director
for national accounts for The
Schwan Food Company in Marshall,
MN. He married fellow grad Debbie
Farnakis ’81 right after graduation. Lisa
Holbrook Callison is food produc-
tion manager for the Community Food
Bank of New Jersey, culinary workshop
instructor for the ShopRite/Wakefem
grocery stores, and special event chef for
Wakefem Corporation. JoAnn Carolla-
Polt is owner of the new Taos School
of Cooking in Ranchos de Taos, NM. It
opened in June 2009 and offers courses
for food enthusiasts.
’82 John Troiano is executive
chef for ShopRite supermar-
kets in Plainview, NY.
’84 Edward Lepselter is a real-
tor for RE/MAX Advantage
Plus in Boca Raton, FL.
’86 Bruce Rowland is the chef/
owner of Rowland’s Fine Din-
ing Restaurant in Richmond, VA.
’88 Mathew Mitnitsky is chef/
owner of Nonni’s Italian Eat-
ery in Concord, NH. In November 2009,
he successfully set a Guinness World
Record™ for the world’s largest meatball.
His record-setting meatball weighed in
at 222.5 pounds and was made of fresh
ground beef, farm fresh eggs, grated Par-
mesan cheese, unseasoned bread crumbs,
and assorted seasonings. As soon as the
win was officially verified, the meatball
was portioned and donated to the local
non-profit group, The Friendly Kitchen.
’89 David Paul Brai is chef de
cuisine at Al Dente Restau-
rant for Foxwoods Resort Casino in Con-
necticut. Khris Durso is the regional
manager for Landry’s Restaurant, Inc. in
Houston, TX. Kathryn Ross is general
manager for The Black-eyed Pea Restau-
rant in Houston, TX.
Follow Your CIA ConnectionsBy Jonathan Hayward ’95
Cooking was a mid-life career choice for me. I had
owned and operated a small road-paving business and
after 17 years I knew there were more stimulating and
creative avenues to pursue in life. Fortunately, at age 35, I
was in good enough physical shape to endure the rigors
of kitchen work and I had no problems handling the CIA
education experience. So, I had my CIA diploma and no
idea what I was actually going to do with it!
After graduation, my biggest dilemma was money; I had spent all my savings on tuition, board, and
living expenses. There was just enough left in the coffers to make a short move to start a new life. I
already knew from externship experience that hotel/resort work was not for me. The idea of working
garde manger for two years held no appeal.
I caught a break one day when I was talking to one of my favorite CIA chef-instructors. “Try
Charlottesville, Virginia,” he said. “It’s a small college town with several excellent restaurants.” He passed
on a CIA alumni connection to me—the executive chef at an inn outside Charlottesville. I was able to
connect with someone in Charlottesville who was going to be out of town for January and February. So I
had a roof over my head for free!
Like my heroes, the Clampetts, I loaded up my truck and moved to Charlottesville. I was there only
a couple of hours when I sought out my CIA connection, Craig Hartman ’78. I found him at the
Clifton Inn, a beautifully situated bed-and-breakfast with an amazing menu. Without an appointment, I
stuck my head in the kitchen and found Mr. Hartman. I did have enough sense not to show up during
the busy part of the day, and he spent upwards of an hour and a half giving me a restaurant map of
Charlottesville and some names to go with it. To this day, it still amazes me that a stranger took that
much time with me. I had surely interrupted his prep time—and we all know how valuable that is.
Being January, restaurants were reluctant to bring new people on board. Discouraged and reaching the
end of my list of restaurants, I headed to the C&O Restaurant. I found the executive chef—an affable
man in his 30s who also took valuable time out of his day to talk with me. He agreed to take me on for
a trial period. It was by far the best decision I have made in my culinary career. The C&O was already
well-established in Charlottesville when Craig Claiborne came to eat and wrote a glowing review for
The New York Times.
Among the many good things about my stint at the C&O was that I got to do a bit of everything—cut fish
and meat, make soups, work the line, and, for a year, work as the pastry chef. The executive chef, Thomas
Bowles, was the epitome of a patient chef, exactly what I needed at the time.
I am no longer at the C&O. I’ve moved on to equally good situations. But as I look back, it’s at the C&O
where I laid my foundation for cooking. My experience there continues to influence everything I do
today. I often reflect on the life-changing influence my CIA connections had on my life.
in 2002, the College opened the doors to the newly named and renovated farquharson hall (formerly alumni hall).
34
He recently received his C.E.C. from the
ACF. Barton Seaver was named Chef
of the Year in the November 2009 edition
of Esquire magazine.
’02 Connal McCullough is
chef-instructor at Le Cordon
Bleu College of Culinary Arts in Boston,
MA.
’03 Sei Fujimoto is executive
manager and chef for Inter-
national Dining and Cosi, Inc. Eugene
Philbin is the account manager for
MAINES Paper & Food Service, Inc. in
Conklin, NY.
’04 David Lenweaver is
restaurant manager at the
Bellevue Country Club in Syracuse, NY.
Lauren Mitterer is pastry chef/owner
of the WildFlour Pastry in Charleston,
SC. Jarrod Spangler is chef/owner of
La Pecora Nera in Ponte Bernardo, Italy.
Catch up with David at www.osteriala-
pecoranera.net.
’05 Blake Ellis is chef/owner of
Eloquent Entrees in Sarasota,
’90 James Binner was appointed
division sales manager for
Lactalis Foodservice. He is an active
member and/or holds advisory board
seats with the American Culinary
Federation, International Food Service
Executive Association, International
Food Manufacturers Association, School
Nutritional Association, and National
Restaurant Association. Kate Wilkin
Thorson is the food service director for
Flik International, a member of Compass
Group North America. Kate is married
and has two boys, ages 10 and 8.
’91 Steven Welch recently
accepted the position of execu-
tive chef for Cabbage Key, a destination
island in southwestern Florida that has
been featured on the Travel Channel.
’92 Philip L. Mastin is
executive sous chef for the
Piedmont Driving Club in Atlanta, GA.
He has responsibility for the major events
and tournaments during the fall. Phil was
selected by the Atlanta Chapter of the
ACF as the 2008 Chef of the Year. David
Pacifico is official caterer for the TV
show Law and Order: Criminal Intent.
’97 Mario Doreste is chef de cui-
sine at Canajoharie Country
Club in Canajoharie, NY. John Schmitz
is the executive chef at Centerplate in
Frisco, TX.
’98 David Oren is director of
dining services for Sodexo
in Bethlehem, PA. Christopher S.
Kozlowski is chairman of the board
of the New Hampshire Lodging and
Restaurant Association—the youngest in
the Association’s 95-year history.
’99 Deborah Jones is executive
chef at Olio Restaurant in
West Stockbridge, MA.
’00 David Lani is executive chef
at The Terrace in Henderson,
NV. He was recently voted “best caterer”
in Henderson. Sasha Rodriguez
Miranda recently opened Miranda
Restaurant in Brooklyn, NY. She also got
married in May 2009.
’01 Matthew D. Ona is executive
chef at Romora Bay Resort
and Marina in Harbour Island, Bahamas.
FL. He is proud to announce the opening
of the Savory Street International Café
and Bakery, also in Sarasota. Matthew
Ianetta is restaurant chef running Sear
restaurant in the Atlanta Marriott Mar-
quis in Atlanta, GA. The hotel recently
underwent a $134 million renovation,
giving the restaurant a 350-seat capacity.
’06 Catherine Marczak is
pastry chef for Fire and Ice on
Toby Creek in Trucksville, PA.
’07 Melinda Hawks has been
promoted to production sous
chef for Abigail Kirsch, Inc. She married
Daniel McCullough ’07 in January
2010. Daniel is now part of the dining
room team at the Blue Hill Stone Barns,
in Pocantico Hills, NY.
’08 Jorge Luis F. Hernandez
is chef/cook at Minibar by
José Andrés in Washington, DC. Kaitlyn
Lennox is pastry chef for BLT Steak
in White Plains, NY. She was recently
featured on NewYorkSocialDiary.com.
John Pickett is a line cook at the Blue
Pear Bistro in West Chester, PA.
AND THE WINNER IS…
To read and enjoy the stories that received an honorable mention, please visit www.ciaalumninetwork.com, the site for CIA alumni news.
So many of you submitted such great stories about your most embarassing, surprising, or
hilarious moments at work to the Hyde Park® Collection Carving Set Contest that we decided to
award two runner-up prizes as well. Each runner-up will receive a Masters Collection™ 3½ inch
Paring Knife. Enjoy these funny and charming stories…we certainly did.
Runner-up: James B. Hassell ’96While a student at the CIA, I worked at the Depuy Canal House in nearby High Falls, NY. One afternoon, as I was busily prepping, the phone rang. It was the kitchen phone, so I was caught a little off-guard when the caller started talking about a reservation she had for eight people. She said there had been a death in the family. Anxious to get back to my prep, I quickly did the math in my head and said, “So there will only be seven for dinner?” “No,” she replied. And after an unusually long pause said, “We want to cancel.” Oops.
First Place Winner: Joe Tomei ’73I was executive chef of a restaurant in Brea, CA. While getting prepped for a large Sunday brunch for 300–400, I asked my assistant line cook—an inexperienced kid who wanted to learn about cooking—to put two eggs in each ramekin so we’d have them readily available for poaching and sautéing. He was to fill as many ramekins as would fit on an 18- by 36-inch baking sheet.
After 10 minutes he returned looking confused. “I could only get one egg to fit in each ramekin,” he said. I didn’t understand until I looked at the sheet pan full of ramekins. He had filled each one with a single egg still in its shell! No wonder he couldn’t figure out how to fit the second egg! I never forgot this story.
Runner-up: Sean J. Moley ’96Right after I graduated from the CIA, I was working at the Four Seasons Hotel, New York City. As the evening pastry line cook, it was my job to create a fabulous daily dessert special. A woman dining with actor Sean Connery asked for my special of the evening. As the waiter handed the dessert to Mr. Connery’s guest, he said, “Sean made this especially for you.” Sean Connery replied, “Well, I am a good actor but she will never believe I pulled that off.” The waiter explained that my name was Sean as well, and we all had a good laugh.
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SIX1 2 3 4 5 6Great Reasons to Attend These Events...
Mingle Laugh Learn Network Dine Connect
National Restaurant Association Show May 22–25, 2010 McCormick Place, Chicago, IL Join us at the Chicago Alumni Reception.
8th Annual CorCIA Food, Wine & Golf Event June 21, 2010 Albany Country Club, Voorheesville, NY Proceeds to benefit both CIA and Cornell student scholarship funds.
2010 Alumni Reunion September 24–25, 2010 Hyde Park, NY campus Watch the Web site for information about Reunion 2010.Visit www.ciaalumninetwork.com
for information about all these events.
New England Foodservice & Lodging Expo
March 14–16, 2010 Boston Convention & Exhibition Center, Boston, MA
Join us at the Boston Alumni Reception.
Boston, MA Alumni Reception
March 14, 2010Prudential Center, 800 Boylston Street
Hosted by jason banusiewicz ’04.
Washington, DC Alumni Reception
April 12, 2010 Good Stuff Eatery hosted by spike mendelsohn ’05.