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The Other Shoe Drops APPEALS COURT SAVES BUT TRIMS LOUBOUTIN “RED SOLE” TRADEMARK, GIVES FASHION A HELPFUL AESTHETIC FUNCTIONALITY RULE The biggest news from New York Fashion Week — for lawyers anyway — is the arrival of the much-anticipated decision of the U.S. Court of Appeals for the Second Circuit in the Christian Louboutin “red sole” trademark case. 1 The 31-page opinion by Judge Jose A. Cabranes saved Louboutin’s red “outsole” trademark, but only when there’s a color contrast between the red outsole and the shoe’s upper. The Second Circuit directed the U.S. Patent and Trademark office to limit the Louboutin trademark registration accordingly. The YSL monochromatic shoe — red upper, red outsole — over which the lawsuit began and against which Louboutin had tried and failed to get a preliminary injunction, won’t infringe the trimmed-down trademark. YSL seems to have a green light to click the heels of its all-red shoes. From a broader perspective, perhaps the most significant aspect of the decision for the fashion and accessories world is its clarification of something called “aesthetic functionality.” As a general rule, features are deemed functional if they are necessary to make the product work or for the product to achieve competitive cost or quality characteristics. The district court’s decision [InFashion, Fall 2011] found that color is inherently functional for fashion items and prohibited claiming it as a trademark, no matter how widely associated with the product. So while a maker of industrial products could use a color as a trademark, a fashion designer could not. The district court reasoned that the choice of color enhances the appearance, and therefore the commercial appeal, of the fashion design, making the hue “aesthetically functional.” The Second Circuit opinion rejects this special rule for fashion. It finds that a single color trademark is not off limits to a fashion designer just because using a particular color David Jacoby 212.745.0876 [email protected] Judith S. Roth 212.745.0878 [email protected] Stacie R. Hartman 312.258.5607 [email protected] Chris L. Bollinger 312.258.5724 [email protected] Amy M. Rubenstein 312.258.5625 [email protected] Marc Silverman 212.745.0872 [email protected] Harold S. Nathan 212.745.0813 [email protected] Hans F. Kaeser 212.745.0818 [email protected] Philippe C.M. Manteau 212.745.0856 [email protected] Rick Juckniess 734.222.1504 [email protected] Fashion in Fall 2012 1 Christian Louboutin S.A. v. Yves Saint Laurent America Holding, Inc., 2012 WL 3832285 (2d. Cir.) (September 5, 2012).

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Page 1: Fall 2012 - Schiff Hardin€¦ · called “persistent identifiers,” such as IP addresses, cookie data and unique device identifiers, as well as information that can be correlated

The Other Shoe DropsAPPEALS COURT SAVES BUT TRIMS LOUBOUTIN “RED SOLE” TRADEMARK, GIVES FASHION A HELPFUL AESTHETIC FUNCTIONALITY RULE

The biggest news from New York Fashion Week — for lawyers anyway — is the arrival

of the much-anticipated decision of the U.S. Court of Appeals for the Second Circuit in

the Christian Louboutin “red sole” trademark case.1 The 31-page opinion by Judge Jose

A. Cabranes saved Louboutin’s red “outsole” trademark, but only when there’s a color

contrast between the red outsole and the shoe’s upper. The Second Circuit directed the

U.S. Patent and Trademark office to limit the Louboutin trademark registration

accordingly. The YSL monochromatic shoe — red upper, red outsole — over which the

lawsuit began and against which Louboutin had tried and failed to get a preliminary

injunction, won’t infringe the trimmed-down trademark. YSL seems to have a green

light to click the heels of its all-red shoes.

From a broader perspective, perhaps the most significant aspect of the decision for the

fashion and accessories world is its clarification of something called “aesthetic

functionality.” As a general rule, features are deemed functional if they are necessary

to make the product work or for the product to achieve competitive cost or quality

characteristics. The district court’s decision [InFashion, Fall 2011] found that color is

inherently functional for fashion items and prohibited claiming it as a trademark, no

matter how widely associated with the product. So while a maker of industrial products

could use a color as a trademark, a fashion designer could not. The district court

reasoned that the choice of color enhances the appearance, and therefore the

commercial appeal, of the fashion design, making the hue “aesthetically functional.”

The Second Circuit opinion rejects this special rule for fashion. It finds that a single color

trademark is not off limits to a fashion designer just because using a particular color

David Jacoby212.745.0876

[email protected]

Judith S. Roth212.745.0878

[email protected]

Stacie R. Hartman312.258.5607

[email protected]

Chris L. Bollinger312.258.5724

[email protected]

Amy M. Rubenstein312.258.5625

[email protected]

Marc Silverman212.745.0872

[email protected]

Harold S. Nathan212.745.0813

[email protected]

Hans F. Kaeser212.745.0818

[email protected]

Philippe C.M. Manteau212.745.0856

[email protected]

Rick Juckniess734.222.1504

[email protected]

Fashion in

Fall 2012

1 Christian Louboutin S.A. v. Yves Saint Laurent America Holding, Inc., 2012 WL 3832285 (2d. Cir.) (September 5, 2012).

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may enhance the design, provided that it does not significantly restrict the ability of

others to compete. This stops short of the monopoly which a patent or copyright

confers, but also avoids “jumping to the conclusion that an aesthetic feature is functional

merely because it denotes the product’s desirable source.” (Slip op. at p. 21).

But don’t rush to trademark fuchsia, because you probably can’t make out the

exceptionally strong showing of secondary meaning Louboutin could (and did). As the

Second Circuit said, “we think it plain that Louboutin’s marketing efforts have created

what the able district judge described as 'a . . . brand with worldwide recognition.'"

(Id., p. 28).

The opinion also reminds us of fashion design’s lonely position outside most intellectual

property protection and acknowledges that this pushes designers to greater reliance on

trademark protection. The court also notes the so-far-unsuccessful efforts to create a

federal design right for fashion (n. 19) (For more on this, see p.7).

Still in the picture, if YSL chooses to pursue them, are its two counterclaims. One sought

to knock out the Louboutin trademark as being “functional.” While it discussed aesthetic

functionality as a general principle, the opinion never reached that specific question as

to the trimmed-back Louboutin mark. YSL could proceed, but it may judge it the better

part of valor not to press the point, lest the fashion house find itself on the receiving

end of the same argument down the road. The second counterclaim is for tortious

interference with business relations. Whether that proceeds could turn on a host of

variables, including whether any stores walked away from orders for the YSL shoe.

Certain cynics would not be shocked to see the counterclaims settled confidentially,

perhaps with some of YSL’s legal costs being defrayed as a result.

Data PrivacyFTC TWEAKS PROPOSED CHANGES TO KIDS’ PRIVACY PROTECTION RULE, FINES GOOGLE $22.5 MILLION FOR PRIVACY CONSENT ORDER VIOLATIONS

School may have been out for summer, but the Federal Trade Commission was busy just

the same on the privacy front. On August 1, it published a supplemental notice of rule-

making, tweaking previously proposed revisions to (and expanding the scope of) its rule

under the Children’s Online Privacy Protection Act (COPPA), intended to catch up with

developments since the law was passed in 1998. The supplemental notice modified a

proposal initially made in September 2011 in light of some 350 public comments that

had been received.

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in Fashion

COPPA requires parental notice and consent to collect personal information about

children under age 13. What information is covered, who has responsibilities for

protecting it and what they are all change somewhat under the proposed modifications.

While originally site operators were responsible only for information they themselves

gathered, they now would be on the hook for data covered by COPPA that is collected

by third-parties through plug-ins, social networking buttons (think Facebook’s “like”)

and widgets, even if the site operators don’t own or control them or even have access

to the data. The third-party collectors, such as ad networks, will also have duties under

COPPA if they “have reason to know” the data they get is children’s data; then they, too,

would need to get parental consent. The rule applies to sites that knowingly target

individuals under 13 or the content of which is likely to attract them. However, the

modification takes up a proposal made by the Walt Disney Company and would allow

sites that screen for age to treat only those under 13, rather than all visitors, as

children. What constitutes personal information under the proposal includes a category

called “persistent identifiers,” such as IP addresses, cookie data and unique device

identifiers, as well as information that can be correlated with other information to pick

out a particular user. The modification would carve out of the rule things like “screen

names,” as long as they don’t amount to online contact information.

As to Google, we reported previously [InFashion, Spring 2012] that it was in hot water

because the FTC claimed that while Google was telling folks using Safari web browsers

(typically installed on Apple’s iPads and iPhones) that its default settings automatically

would keep them cookie-free, in fact Google had taken advantage of a software wrinkle

in the Safari program to do the opposite. Safari doesn’t block cookies for forms (for

instance, your usual shipping address). The FTC said Google had fooled Safari into

allowing any cookie to be inserted by submitting pseudo-forms.

It was not so long ago that Google entered into a long-term, fairly onerous consent

decree with the FTC over privacy problems with the roll-out of its now-defunct Buzz

feature [InFashion, Spring 2011]. Part of that order barred Google from misrepresenting

what information it collects from consumers and how they can control it, and the FTC

said the Safari affair was a violation. The result was the largest civil penalty ever

assessed by the FTC for violating one of its orders, $22.5 million.

Further legal controversy arose because the FTC’s consent order with Google over Safari

said it neither admitted nor denied the FTC’s allegations. This prompted a dissent from

one commissioner. The other commissioners said that going forward, express denials

will be “strongly disfavored” in consent orders. A federal court has granted a public

interest request to force the FTC to justify its action.

Just to keep things in context: the $22.5 million Google will pay is probably more than

the total of all the fines assessed in the 19 COPPA cases ever brought by the FTC.

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'NAKED' in the 'Lower East Side'FIGHTING THE GOOD FIGHT OR MONOPOLIZING DESCRIPTIVE MARKS?

Litigations over the trademarks “NAKED” and “LOWER EAST SIDE” were in the news this

summer, and the cases shine a light on two big issues: the problems presented by

choosing a mark that’s “descriptive,” as both those marks are; and the special challenges

a small business faces in proving that the public recognizes that mark as identifying the

product source (what the lawyers call having developed “secondary meaning”).

In the hierarchy of protecting trademarks, invented marks (think Kodak) rank at the

top; descriptive ones are at the bottom. Descriptive marks are generally weak. Lots of

products or services may be in or from the Lower East Side or offered “naked” in a

colloquial sense. Therefore such marks aren’t necessarily associated by consumers with

a particular company. You prove secondary meaning by showing that you bought

advertisements, sold the product with the mark in significant volume and for significant

amounts, that there’s awareness of the mark among the relevant consumers and so on

— and, critically, having the evidence to back that up. Having gotten that far, the

trademark owner also must prove likelihood of consumer confusion between the

protected mark and the allegedly infringing mark.

Lower East SideRobert Lopez owns L.E.S. Clothing Co. and lives on New York’s Lower East Side. For

more than a dozen years, he has been designing and selling t-shirts bearing the marks

he claimed, “Lower East Side,” “LES” and “LES NYC.” Lopez has filed half a dozen

trademark infringement suits against a host of well-known brands offering t-shirts that

refer to Lower East Side including Macy’s, J. Crew, Aeropostale, Payless and Urban

Outfitters. In Lopez v. The Gap, Inc., 1:11-cv-03185-PAE (S.D.N.Y. Aug. 2, 2012),

District Judge Paul A. Engelmayer rejected similar claims by Lopez, finding they flunked

the test for trademark protection.

Lopez had tried to register one of his Lower East Side-related trademarks federally, but

it was rejected for being “primarily geographically descriptive of the origin of the

applicant’s goods.” He did secure New York State registrations for all three and also

claimed common law rights from use.2

As a small, independent business, with only modest historical product revenue, Lopez

likely would have had an uphill battle to show that his marks had the consumer

2 The court noted that as the result of the settlement of one of his earlier suits, Lopez was limited to selling “Lower East Side” items in New York State.

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Fashionin

recognition necessary to show either secondary meaning or likelihood of confusion.

Worse he lacked detailed records, proof of revenue, proof of advertising, and proof of

copying (or even awareness) of his products by Gap. The court found that “LES,”

written in interlocking and stylized letters, could be weakly inherently distinctive, but

found no likelihood of confusion with the design sold by Gap affiliate Old Navy. The court

also dismissed Lopez’ claims to “Lower East Side” and “LES NYC” marks on the same

grounds.

At first glance, the case has David and Goliath echoes: Lopez the underdog—an

underground, indie entrepreneur who has been selling clothing mostly on the streets, in

barbershops and in local stores, using flyers and word of mouth to advertise, dealing

mostly in barter or for cash, going to court pro se (self-represented).3 But perhaps the

better parallel is Don Quixote, because Lopez’s task doubtlessly was made tougher

because he chose to tilt at descriptive trademark windmills. Quixote’s idealistic view of

Dulcinea made for heroic poetry; Lopez’s unsupported view that his use of “Lower East

Side” had sparked so many others to copy him — well, not so much.

Naked

By contrast, the second, still-pending case involved a suit between two large, well-

known businesses. Urban Decay Cosmetics and Victoria’s Secret are currently litigating

over the use of the mark “Naked” in connection with cosmetics. Both companies have

name recognition, and generally market to overlapping target audiences. Both

companies have significant resources. Urban Decay has held a federal registration for

“Naked” in combination with its name since 2010 for cosmetics. Victoria’s Secret has

held trademarks for “Nakeds” since 2010, but in connection with lingerie and swimwear.

Urban Decay sent a cease and desist letter to Victoria’s Secret after learning of its plans

to launch a cosmetics palette using the mark “NAKEDS.” Victoria’s Secret quickly filed

a pre-emptive declaratory action in federal court, seeking a judgment that Victoria’s

Secret’s use of the descriptive phrase “THE NAKEDS” does not infringe any trademark,

does not constitute unfair competition, is not a false designation of origin, and does not

infringe any trade dress. Victoria’s Secret Store Brand Mgmt. v. Urban Decay Cosmetics,

LLC, 2:12-cv-00693 (S.D. Ohio) (complaint filed July 31, 2012).

Both parties’ word marks are in similar capital letters, and the trade dress is similar. A

quick look at the products on which they are displayed (at right) clues you into why

Urban Decay sought to protect its mark against Victoria’s Secret and its entry into the

cosmetics market. As you can see from the photos, the rectangular shape, the use of

“NAKED” in all capitals, the particular stylization of the K on each box, the similarly

placed name of the source in small letters under the bottom of the word “NAKED,” as

3 In this case, the court asked a law firm to represent Lopez in briefing the summary judgment motion against his claims.

At first glance, the case has David and Goliath echoes...but perhaps the better parallel is Don Quixote.

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well as the fact that the same products are being sold, appear, at least at first blush

(pun intended), to factor into a possible finding of likelihood of confusion.4 A TV ad for

the earlier “NAKEDS” lingerie did not, for example, have the same stylized “K” as the

cosmetics do.5 Victoria’s Secret has been accused of infringement previously, for marks

such as “Delicious,” “Angel Dreams” and “Fantasies.” Urban Decay has not yet

responded.

The Take-AwaysThink twice before you adopt a merely descriptive mark, and then think about it once

more, especially if you are a small outfit. The road to establishing secondary meaning

will be longer and costlier than for a more distinctive mark. If you decide to embark on

that path nevertheless, make sure you have in place the systems to preserve the proof

of all your promotional and advertising work and sales results.

If you are seeking to expand the use of a mark from one class of products to another

class where someone else already has a well-publicized similar mark, think about

avoiding similarities in the font, stylization and other aspects of the mark. Precisely

because you are both able to afford more advertising and promotion, it may be far more

likely that awareness and perhaps even copying of the senior mark in the field you are

seeking to enter can be shown.

This article was written by Christine Feller, an associate resident in the firm’s New York office. She can be reached at [email protected] or 212.745.9549.

Rights ReduxFASHION DESIGN RIGHTS BILL RE-INTRODUCED IN SENATERegular readers of InFashion are aware that, since 2006, federal legislators have

introduced bills in the House and Senate proposing design rights protection for fashion

creations. On September 10, 2012, in the midst of New York Fashion Week, Senator

Chuck Schumer of New York introduced S. 3523, the Innovative Design Protection Act

of 2012, a bill that is similar to the legislation proposed in the last Congress but adding

new limitations and conditions to assertion of any fashion design rights claims.

This new bill would amend the Copyright Act and create a three-year term of protection

for original articles of apparel. Like last year’s bill, it also creates a claim for infringement

where fashion items are “substantially identical” to an original work, defined to mean

“so similar in appearance as to be likely to be mistaken for the protected design and

contain[ing] only those differences in construction or design which are merely trivial.”

4 Other companies also use the word “NAKED” in connection with cosmetics. For example, a quick Internet search turned up “naked cosmetics,” a seemingly unrelated line of cosmetics and beauty products. But that mark is written in lower case letters, with stylization that helps to distinguish it from Urban Decay’s mark.

5 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mjd1czCN648 (last viewed on September 5, 2012).

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Fashionin

The bill adds a new subsection requiring that the design rights owner provide written

notice before suing a suspected infringer. The design rights owner would have a 21-day

waiting period before being able to go to court. The bill also would exempt

telecommunications and internet service providers from fashion rights infringement

liability for the transmission, storage, retrieval and hosting of allegedly infringing

communications provided that the service provider did not select or alter the content of

the communications. This new subsection expressly provides that the exemption

provided parallels the exemption contained in Section 230(c) of the Communications

Decency Act. Stay tuned.

Social Media PoliciesDOES YOUR SOCIAL MEDIA POLICY VIOLATE THE NATIONAL LABOR RELATIONS ACT?A September 7 decision of the National Labor Relations Board, Costco Wholesale

Corporation, Case 34-CA-012421, teaches that a seemingly innocuous handbook or

employee policy provision about what employees can do on-line can run afoul of federal

labor law, even if your employees are not unionized or the subject of an

organizational campaign.

At issue was a rule telling Costco employees that "statements posted electronically ...

that damage the Company, defame any individual or damage any person’s reputation,

or violate the policies outlined in the Costco Employee Agreement," could lead to

discipline or firing. You ask: what’s wrong with that? The National Labor Relations Act,

Section 7, guarantees employees, union or not, the right “to engage . . . in concerted

activities for the purpose of collective bargaining or other mutual aid or protection.”

Section 8(a)(1) bars employer rules that would reasonably tend to chill employees’

exercise of those Section 7 rights. The NLRB found Costco's rule violated Section 8(a)

(1). The Board’s general counsel previously had taken a similar position in authorizing

various proceedings, but this is the first time it has been adopted by the Board. Time

to take a look at what’s in your employee manual?

SHORT TAKESMacy’s won a preliminary injunction from a New York State court against Martha Stewart

Living Omnimedia (MSLO) in July, barring MSLO from going forward with contemplated

products for J.C. Penney for which Macy’s has “exclusives” (soft home, housewares,

home décor, furniture and cookware). MSLO has appealed. Meantime, Macy’s also sued

J.C. Penney, which avoided an injunction by agreeing to obey the July order against

MSLO. The cases will present interesting issues of contract construction — for example,

one of MSLO’s defenses has been that the Martha Stewart “store within a store” Penney

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plans to establish at its location are allowed under the MSLO-Macy’s deal as an “MSLO

Store” or MSLO Direct-to-Customer channel . . . . New York State adopted a new law,

amending parts of General Business Law §399 (the “Do Not Call” Law). Taking effect

in mid-November, the changes subject out-of-state telemarketers to registration with

the Secretary of State, require the posting of a bond, and assert jurisdiction over the

out-of-staters. The law also bans “robocalling” unless the consumer has given prior

written consent. (Do you know anyone who would?) . . . . The U.S. Court of Appeals for

the Ninth Circuit affirmed a ruling we discussed [InFashion, Fall 2011] that Shirley

Jones (depending on your generation, the mom on The Partridge Family or Librarian

Marion in The Music Man) had no right-of-publicity claim against photo agency Corbis

for its use of her pictures snapped at red carpet events . . . . The Internet Corporation

for Assigned Names and Numbers (ICANN) extended the deadline for comment on

applications made for new general top-level domains (gTLDs) [InFashion, Winter

2011-12] to September 26, even as members of the U.S. Senate Judiciary Committee

wrote to ICANN to gripe about inadequate safeguards. Meanwhile, an antitrust claim

that ICANN’s new “.xxx” gTLD was nothing but a conspiracy to monopolize the

“defensive registration” market by forcing adult Web site operators to pay to get .xxx

registrations to fend off imposters survived a motion to dismiss in August. The court

didn’t buy ICANN’s argument that the millions of dollars in fees it was collecting didn’t

amount to commercial activity, Marwin Licensing International S.A.R.L. v. ICM Registry,

LLC, 11 CV 9514 (C.D. Cal. August 14, 2012). This could raise problems for any other

new gTLDs ICANN authorizes, too — potential antitrust liability could be scarier than a

Senate letterhead . . . . Google tweaked its algorithms, saying that Web sites having

too many takedown removal notices will be displayed lower down in search results. How

many is too many? Google didn’t say.

Coming in the next issue:Made in the U.S.A.

Ann Arbor Atlanta Boston Charlotte Chicago Lake Forest New York San Francisco Washington

Fashion in

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© 2012 Schiff Hardin LLPThis publication is for the general information of clients and friends of our firm. It does not provide legal advice for any specific matter. Readers should consult a lawyer directly for such advice. This publication, or parts of it, may be considered attorney advertising material under professional conduct rules applicable to lawyers.