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Fashion trends can often provide insights into past cultures. In this issue,historians explore topics ranging from the influence ballooning had on eighteenth-century fashions to the struggle over whether Muslim women in the USSR should,or should not, wear the veil.

We also take you behind the scenes to discover how curators put togetherexhibits on historical clothing and we explore endangered traditions such asTuvan embroidery. We’ll even take you into the laundry room to show you howpeople cleaned their dirty clothes in the past.

Along with fifteen original articles on unique aspects of fashion history, you’ll findpages of fashion illustrations and primary source documents, all of which give youan understanding of how and why fashionistas from the past embraced fashionswhich seem odd to us today.

So, loosen your corsets and kick off your high heels as we take you on a tour ofthe world of high fashion.

Fads and Fashions

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Getting DressedWe take you behind the scenes at a historicalmuseum as curators and conservators dressmannequins and prepare for an exhibit on DowntonAbbey style clothes.

Doing Your HairGet out your brushes and combs! We’ll showyou the bouffants, chignons and pompadoursof the era.

Putting on More Clothes“The finest achievement of the new woman hasbeen personal liberty.” Discover the clothes thatdefined an era.

Fashioning the New WomanWe take you in through the front door for a peak atA new exhibit that explores how and why women'sfashions changed during the Downton Abbey era.

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Deutsch and Company Catalogue:1891Go shopping on Fifth Avenue in New York Citywhere you’ll find everything you need to become aNew Woman.

Simpson’s Catalogue: Fall and Winter1918-1919The motto of this Canadian department store was “You’llenjoy shopping at Simpson’s.” Check out their cataloguefrom 1918-1919 to discover the fashions you need to be aNew Woman

Arsenic Eaters“Every one sees and admires the reality of her growingbeauty.” John Parascandola explores how arsenic wasused in many ways, including as a cosmetic.

A Crafty WomanCentral Asia is home to the ancient, butendangered, language and culture of Tuva. JoinUHP as we interview Raisa Tas-Ool, an expert whohelps preserve the traditional skills of Tuvan textilework.

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Tracing the ThreadWatch a Tuvan embroidery take shape.

How Much is that Dress Worth?Get our your wallet as we join American dollarprincesses shopping for their trousseau in Paris.

A Shopping List and MoreExplore primary documents and illustrations about Worthdresses.

Famous American Belles of the NineteenthCentury”She is completely uncultivated... But she is wonderfullypretty.” Henry James knew it best: American women fromthe Caton sisters on to Jennie Jerome have alwaysfascinated European aristocrats as well as Americanbusinessmen and politicians.

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Reminiscences of Lady Randolph ChurchillShe was Winston Churchill’s mother but before that she wasone of the many dollar princesses who married into theEruopean aristocracy. Regarded as one of the great beautiesof her age, she brought an American sense of style to Britain.

The Balloon Travels of Robert Merry andHis Young FriendsClimb into your wicker basket and discover how childrenlearned about ballooning.

Take FlightExplore balloon imagery from the eighteenth andnineteenth centuries.

High-Flying FashionMichael Lynn throws open the closet doors to explore how a growingfascination with ballooning influenced American and Europeanfashions during the late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries.

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Lords of FashionClick your heels and we’ll take you to a placewhere even the colors of your heels reflectedyour social status.

Clothes At CourtDiscover a range of court dresses and styles.

Dress and Insignia Worn at HisMajesty’s CourtWondering what you should wear the next timethe Queen invites you to dinner? This book from1921 lays it all out, explaining what you, yourspouse, and your children should wear.

What’s all the Hoopla?What lengths did nineteenth-century fashionistas go towhen trying to keep up with the latestfashions? Discover the ins and outs of the crinoline withUHP staff.

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Wide-Angle LensWe take out our wide-angle lens to show youthe evolution of the crinoline using illustrationsfrom American, British, and French fashionmagazines.

Before the WhiteoutVera Wang and other modern designers shockfashionistas when they promote weddingdresses in colors other than white. But there isnothing new in the idea of a red, blue, or evengreen wedding gown.

Bridal PartyWe take you on a tour of bridal fashions spanningthe centuries and different cultures to illustrate howthe white wedding gown came to dominate bothwestern and non-western weddings.

Down with the Veil!

During the 1920s and 1930s, the USSR embarked on acampaign to liberate Uzbek and other Central AsianMuslim women from wearing the veil but womenresponded to the campaign in ways that surprised andconfounded government officials. Douglas Northropsheds light on this often overlooked history.

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The Clothes Make The ManWhen Pope Celestine I rebuked some of his priestsfor wearing "modern" clothing, most clergy respondedby confining themselves to wearing the secularcostume of late antiquity. Discover the reasonsbehind the emergence of papal vestments.

Dawn Over Samarkand“Uzbek and Tadjik women were never heard.” Followup on Douglas Northrop’s article by exploring CentralAsia and the impact of the Bolshevik Revolution in thistravelogue from the 1930s.

Teachers ProtestRead the petition Uzbek teachers wrote regarding thewearing of the veil.

Infallible TasteStep into the pope’s closet. Explore his vestmentsas well as the ways in which his contemporariesviewed his clothes.

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Wild Woman:The Romance of a Flapper

Described as a “sprightly romance of a buddingflapper,” this short romance explores the wild waysof a young flapper.

That’s the Way They Liked ItPut your dance shoes on and discover thefreedom and fantasy of disco fashion withDiana Mankowski.

Dance Fever

Listen to the music that will set your platformshoes tapping.

Not for Old FogiesSusan Ferentinos explores the emergence of anew magazine which highlighted a new fashionicon: the flapper.

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Dirty LaundryOver time, loads of it have accumulated. Join historianof technology Orville Butler as he explores how peopledid their laundry between the seventeenth andnineteenth centuries.

Another Load of Laundry

Rebecca Pulju comes clean about its history.Discover how French women were finally liberatedfrom this unpleasant chore during the twentiethcentury.

Second Suds SayingsSay, where did those lost shirts go? In 1919,the National Laundry Association published acollection of stories, poems, and sayingsexploring the joys of doing laundry and thecontretemps that ensued when clothes wentmissing.

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