Fabrics Information.docx

8/14/2019 Fabrics Information.docx

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Fabric-identification

A simple burn test is done to identify unknown fabrics. The burn test for the identification of fabric should be

done only by skilled burners. It is usually done by many fabric stores and designers to determine the exact fibercontent. Some fabrics ignite and some melt. Burn test fail to distinguish between cotton and other cellulose

fibers. Some fabric also have finishes that effect burn results. With added chemicals, weighted silk may

sometime react more like synthetic fiber.

The following are effects of the fibers during or after the buring test. Make sure, informations provided is not

guaranteed.

Safety Precaution : The burning test for identifying fabric should be done with caution. Only use small piece

of fabric and hold it with tweezers and not with fingers. Burning synthetic fabric can sizzle or drip very fast and

it curls onto skin or fingernails causing a burn. If a burn occurs, submerge the burned are immediately in ice

water.

Fabric Reaction to

Flame

Bead After-Flame

Ash Odor Smoke/Fum

eCotton May flare wh

en lit, burns

None Continues to

glow

Fine, soft Burning pape

r

Gray or whit

e

Hemp quickly, brig

ht flame,

" flame is rem

ovedbut does

not melt

gray ash leaves, or wo

od

smoke; no fu

me hazard

Jute doesnt shrin

k from flame

" " " " "

Linen (Flax)

" " " " " "

Ramie " " " " " "

Rayon Burns without flame or melting; may fla

re

None unless there is a fabric finish

May glow abit longer than cotton after

flame is rem

oved

Soft, gray ash

Burning paper

Light fume hazard

Silk Burns slowly

, curls away f

rom flame

Dark bead ea

sily crushed

Self-extingui

shing

Dark gritty fi

ne powder

Burned hair

or charred m

eat

Little or no s

moke. No fu

me hazard

Alpaca Burns slowly, sizzles, curl

s away from

flame; may curl back ontofingernail

Brittle, dark,easily crushe

d

" Harsh ash from crushed be

ad

Strong odorof hair or feat

hers

Dark smoke;moderate fu

me

Cahmere " " " " "

Mohair " " " " " "

Wool " " " " " "

Acetate, Tri

acetate

Burns quickl

y, can flare even after fla

me is remove

d

Hard, brittle,

uncrushable

Melts into ve

ry hot bead;DRIP DANG

ER

No ash Hot vinegar

or burning pepper

Black smoke;

fume hazard


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Nylon, Poly

mide

Quick burnin

g due to fabric finish; shri

nks to flame

Hard, grayish

uncrushable

Burns slowly

& melts; self-extinguishin

g, DRIP DA

NGER

No ash Celery Fume hazard;

Polyester Quick burnin

g, shrinks aw

ay from flame; may flare

Hard dark ro

und bead

Burns slowly

, not always s

elf-extinguishing

No ash Slightly swee

t chemical od

or

Black smoke;

fume hazard

Acrylic, Mo

dacryl, Poly

acrylic

Flares at match-touch, shr

inks from fla

me, burns rap

idly, hot sputtering flame;

drip danger!

Hard, dark,irregular shape

Continues melting after fl

ame is remov

ed;self-extin

guishing

No ash Strong acrid,fishy odor

Black smoke;fume hazard

Fabric Storage

The storage area should be clean, cool, dry, and dark. If possible free it from drastic changes in temperature and

humidity.

Fabric should be stored as clean as possible because dust particles cut fibers through friction andabrasion.

Fabrics that cannot be cleaned should be vacuumed. However, samplers, painted and embroideredpictures, and beaded work should not be vacuumed.

Try to store flat. If folding is necessary, avoid sharp folds by padding at the points of the folds. Cottons and linens should not have any direct contact with wood, blue tissue, regular tissue, or other

wrapping paper.

Fragile fabrics should be rolled over cloth-covered cardboard tubes. Should not be exposed to the light. Fabrics should be removed from storage periodically and it should be aired. Avoid folding tapestries and rugs. If necessary, it should be in the direction that is natural for it, usually

parallel to the weft.

Costume items should be stored flat and should not be crushed by heavier textiles stored on top of them. If hangers are used, it should be well padded.


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Fabrics GlossaryAntique Satin - a satin with horizontal (weft) slubs which imitates spun shantung silk. It is 60% rayon (the face

yarn fiber) and the 40% of acetate (the back yarn fiber). Often the warp and weft yarns are dyed with different

colors to give an iridescent effect.

Batik - is a dyeing method where the cloth is covered with wax designs. It is dipped into vegetable dye that

dyes the uncovered cloth without melting the wax. The wax is removed with hot water after the design is

finished.

Brocade - a multi-use formal, Jacquard woven fabric with intricate raised woven designs resembling

embroidery. It is often made with variety of thread colors depicting complex patterns and scenes with a shiny

finish. Background weave is often satin. To the back of the fabric, the threads are not tied-down and are carriedas "floaters".

Brocatelle -a specific type of medium weight brocade utilizing four or more sets of threads, equally for warp

and weft. It has large patterns in high relief to appear embroidered or puffy. It is woven finely for formal,refined and sophisticated wear.

Calico -similar to broadcloth, made of cotton or cotton/polyester and usually printed in small "country" all-overwith multi-colored floral patterns.

Canvas - medium to heavy weight cotton fabric woven closely in plain or twill with relatively large threads.Available in variety of colors, stripes and few printed designs. It is also referred as "duck" or "sailcloth". It has

many uses.

Casement - a fabric for drapery either loose or tight, open or closed, plain or novelty weave. Given color,

pattern and interesting texture through tyed complex-yarn arrangements and variations in weave. Usually it is

semi-sheer, translucent or opaque.

Cashmere -a soft fabric made of the wool grown beneath the outer hair of the Cashmere goat in Tibet and theKashmir province in India. It is popular because of its softness.

Chambray -made of cotton or linen, a lightweight fabric in plain, balanced weave using white threads across a

colored wrap. Pronounced "sham-bray".

Chevron -a regular and repeated zigzag pattern formed by reversing the twill weave. It is also known asherringbone.

Crepe -a light soft thin fabric with a crinkled surface. It is made from silk, cotton, wool, or another fiber either

in plain or satin weave.

Damask -a formal satin base Jacquard fabric of linen, cotton, silk, or wool with reversible patterns. It is

medium weight with variety in colors and patterns. Used in decorative fabric situation.

Denim -a coarse twilled cloth, usually of cotton or cotton/polyester which is practical and sturdy. Navy colored

is used as jeans fabric and cream or white is used as Drill.

Embroidery -a surface ornamentation made with a thread or set of threads sewn onto a fabric.

Finish - a substance or the mixture of substances added to textile materials to impart the desired properties.


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Flannel -a fabric woven and then brushed to achieve a soft nap. It is made of wool or a blend of wool andcotton or synthetics.

Flock - a material obtianed by cutting or grinding textile fibers to fragments. There are two types of flock,

precision cut flock, all fiber lengths are approximately equal and random cut flock, the fibers are ground orchopped to produce a broad range of lengths.

Flocking - a method of ornamenting cloth with adhesive printed or coated on a fabric. Finely chopped fibers areapplied by dusting, air-blasting or electrostatic attraction. The fibers adhere to the printed areas and it is

removed manually from the unprinted areas.

Herringbone - a regual zigzag pattern fabric with a novelty or complex twill weave. It is woven or printed on

light-weight to heavy-weight fabrics.

Houndstooth -a medium to heavy weight woven twill fabric designed with continuous broken checks or four-pointed stars resembling projecting "tooth-like" corners.

Jacquard -a weaving system which utilizes a versatile pattern mechanism to permit the production of large and

intricate patterns.

Lisserie - a fine Jacquard woven stripe which imitates silk and embroidery. The different figures and colors in

the pattern comes from the warp.

Matelasse' - a heavy-weight upholstery textile in Jacquard weave with double sets of warps and wefts. The

surface appears to be puffy or cushioned and is also known as double cloth.

Mohair - a fabric obtained from yarn made from the silky hair of the Angora goat.

Nylon - a man-made fiber where the forming substance is a synthetic polyamide. It exhibit excellent strength,

flexibility, elasticity and abrasion resistance.

Ottoman - a heavy silk or rayon fabric with broad, round weft threads that produce a horizontal rib. Used forcoats and trimmings.

Peau de Soie - a soft and fine silk fabric of satin weave having ribbed or grained appearance. It is a French term

which literally means "skin of silk".

Pile fabric -a fabric with an extra warp or weft set, woven to produce a deep surface texture like velvet, terry

cloth, frieze or corduroy.

Pilling -fibers tendency to work loose from the fabric surface and form a balled or matted particles attached tothe surface of the fabric.

Plaid -a cloth having a crisscross design. The stripes in warp and weft directions cross at intervals to form

different colors in square or rectangular patterns. It may be plain or twill weave.

Plisse' - a blistered or puckered finish given to a sheer, thin or light-weight fabric with a caustic soda.

Polyester - a man-made fiber where the forming substance is any synthetic polymer. It has high strength andare resistant to shrinking and stretching. It is also wrinkle resistant.


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Rayon - a man-made fiber basically composed of regenerated cellulose.

Rep, Repp -rib woven fabric (horizontal or vertical ribs) between poplin and ottoman in rib size and weight. It

is durable and medium to heavy-weight. Woven from cotton, wool, or silk.

Satin - a basic type of weave with up to eight weft threads are tied down with one floating weft thread. It islight to medium-weight with glossy face and a dull back.

Scrim - a durable, open weave sheer cotton fabric used for curtains or upholstery lining or in industry.

Shantung dupioni - originally a spun silk fabric with slubs and forms interesting textures. Today, shantung

may be of natural or synthetic fibers. Fabrics imitating shantung are antique satin and antique taffeta.

Suede cloth - a light or medium-weight synthetic knit or woven textile with brushed nap imitating suede

leather.

Tapestry - a Jacquard woven with multiple warps and wefts creating various color patterns or scenes. Used as

wall hangings for decoration or somtimes to cover furniture

Toile - a sheer fabric similar to muslin or percale in plain or twill weave obtained from cotton or linen.

Tufted fabric - a pile fabric formed by tufting a yarn into a woven background. Example, some upholstery

fabrics and all tufted carpets.

Tweed - a coarse, rugged, and often nubby woolen fabric in plain balanced or variation (originally twill) weave.

Used as casual suits and coats.

Velour - a closely napped fabric with a soft, velvet-like texture, used for clothing and upholstery. It includes

some velvet, and all plush-pile surface cloths.

Velvet - a pile woven cotton, silk, and/or rayon fabric with a soft yet sturdy face. Very much like plush but witha shorter pile. The underside is plain.

Vinyl -extruded polyvinyl chloride synthetic fabric flowed onto a knitted, woven, or non-woven base cloth

imitating leather. It is medium to heavy-weight upholstery fabric.

Voile -a light, plain-weave, sheer transparent fabric with tightly twisted yarns often having a stiff finish.Available in novelty effects like pique stripes, printed patterns and stripes. It is obtained from cotton, rayon,

silk, or wool and used especially for making dresses and curtains.

Fabric Manufacturing Process

Cotton Fabric

Cotton fiber undergoes several process to reach the stage of final cloth. The processes are as mentioned below:

GinningGinning is the method of separating the cotton fibers from the seedpods, and sometimes with the sticky seeds.

This is done in the cotton field with the help of machines.


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SpinningSpinning is the succeeding step to ginning. This process involves the making of yarn from the cotton fiber. The

cotton yarns are made of different thickness in this stage.

WeavingWeaving is the most important process in the making of cotton cloth. In this process, two yarn is placed to make

warp and weft of a loom which successively turn them into a cloth.

Fabric finishes and treatmentsAfter weaving the cotton fabric passes through different processing stages till it reaches to the state of final

product. The stages are mentioned below, but it is not necessary for the fabric to undergo all the process for e.g.

grain bags cloth are used unbleached.

Singeing- This process burns off the fibers sticking in the goods. Desizing- This process involves removing the size material from warp yarns in woven fabrics. Scouring- The cleaning part of the fabrics are involved in this process. Bleaching- The fabrics are bleached here to make it more whiter and lighter. Mercerizing- In this process, the fabric is immersed in alkali to make it more strong, shining, durable,

shrink free and stretch free.

Dyeing- This process involves the changing of the fabric color by the treatment with a dye.Finishing- In this process, the fabric is treated with some chemicals or other useful agents to make itqualitatively more better, for e.g. cotton is made sun protected by treating it with UV protecting agent.

Leather Fabric

Pre-tanning

Animal skin is cleaned and salted to prevent decay. The hide or pelt then is sent to tannery for trimming and sorting. Next, it is soaked in water to restore moisture content, which is lost during salting process. It is treated mechanically with rollers and blades to remove fat/muscle and flesh (Fleshing). During liming the skin is soaked in lime solution to remove the hair, inter-fibrillary protein and

epidermis.

In De-liming the hide or pelt is washed in water containing ammonium chloride or ammonium sulphateto neutralise it.

Bating involves treating the leather with digestive enzymes to remove non-fibrous protein. Scudding is done with a blunt knife to remove remaining hair roots, skin pigmentation, and surface fats. Lastly, it is put in sulphuric acid to lower the pH.

Tanning

Tanning is the process where the leather gets the necessary feel and physical characteristics. In this process, the

collagen, an insoluble fibrous protein, which carries the major property of the hide or pelt gets less susceptible

to decay and are kept flexible. This is done by removing the water molecules from the gap of protein moleculesand replacing it with chemicals that retain flexibility.

The main tanning processes are mineral/chrome tanning, vegetable tanning and oil tanning.

Mineral/chrome tanning is the most common and modern method, which uses chromium salts. Thismakes leather water proof and stretchable.


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Vegetable tanning, or bark tanning is the process where the hide is soaked in a solution of bark ofoak/chestnut which is chopped or boiled. The leather becomes moldable and can be tooled. Moreoverwhen dry, the leather will not stretch.

Oil tanning is a process where fish and animal oil is used. The leather becomes very soft and flexible. Itcope up with wetted condition without causing damage to the leather. Chamois leather is best example

of oil tanning.

Lubricating, Dyeing and Finishing

After tanning, the leather undergoes different processes according to the use of the final product.

Vegetable-tanned leather which are used for shoe soles is bleached, lubricated and then run throughrolling machines to make it firm and glossy.

Chrome-tanned leather, for shoe uppers, is split and shaved and then placed in a rotating drum for thedyeing process using several types of coloring materials to give color fastness and durability.

Before or after dyeing, it is rolled in a fat liquor containing emulsified oils and greases. Next, the leatheris pasted on glass or ceramic frames and then passed through drying tunnels with controlled heat and

humidity.

In the finishing process, the leather is coated with grain surface which contains finishing compound. This isbrushed under a revolving brush-covered cylinder. For smooth finish, the leather is treated with a mixture ofwaxes, shellac or emulsified synthetic resins, dyes, and pigments (to avoid painted look). Glazing is done to

achieve polished surface.

Silk Fabric

From Cocoon to Yarn

Silk from cultivated silkworms is more used though silk of wild worms is also valuable. The worms feed on

mulberry leaves and increases their body size by nearly 10,000 times in a short span of time. The worm ceases

to eat by the end of thirty days and attach itself to a piece of straw and begins to spin its cocoon. After thespinning of cocoon and before the hatching of the worm into a moth, the cocoon is soaked in hot water

unraveling and producing long size thread. This fine thread is the basic component of silk yarn and fabric.

Washing and bleaching of the silk threads

The natural fiber extracted from the silkworm holds some glutinous substance (gummy substance or glue)

which is removed by washing and bleaching.

Weaving

Weaving is a process where the fabric is created by interlacing the warp yarns and the weft yarns. It is either

done by machines or hand. Hand woven fabric is better than the machine woven. It can make delicate designs

with different colored thread. Modern machines use lances, projectiles, a jet of compressed air to shoot the weft-

yarn between the warp-yarns. It leads to greater yield and productivity.

A good quality of silk begins with a warp of approximately 2,000 threads for one meter width. 1,600 threads or

1,800 threads are considered to be poor quality fabric. Loosely woven fabrics are difficult to sew.

Dyeing, Printing and Finishing

There are two main types of silk fabrics. One which is yarn-dyed or dyed-woven, like taffeta, duchess satin and


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many pattern-woven fabrics. The other type is piece-dyed fabrics, which is carried out after weaving, like

crepes, twills, etc. The dyeing process gives the silk different shades.

Printing is giving pattern to the fabric. It is either done by block-printing method, roller-printing method or

screen printing. Screen printing is widely used in silk fabrics.

Embroidery process gives embellishment and the perfect finish to the fabric to make it look more beautiful.

All fabrics has to be finished. It is here the fabric gets the desired appearance and feel. Finishing process is

either physical or chemical. It give treatments like crease-proofing, water-proofing, fire-proofing, etc.

Final soaking in a chemical solution

This process helps to preserve the sheen and luster of the silk fabric. It adds weight and makes the fabric soft,

smooth, easy to iron and wrinkle resistant.

Fabric Care

Dry CleaningDry cleaning is a process which involves solvents and little or no water for washing. Make sure the solvent is

distilled to remove greases, oils, waxes and dyes. Poor solvent purity sometimes result in an objectionable odorin the garment and a 'graying' of the white cloths.

Inform the type of stains present on the garment. Pre-spotting helps them to eliminate stains which wouldotherwise be heat set after the garment is cleaned. Be an informed and fair customer for the dry cleaners.

Wet CleaningWet cleaning is a new process to replace dry cleaning. It uses water and the process make use of computer

controlled machines, soap, conditioners and finishers. However, until this process proves to be effective inreplacing dry cleaning, consumer should be cautious with their "dry clean only" garments.

Professional LaunderingMost dry cleaners offer professional laundering. The garments which are washable are professionally washed

and then pressed. Shirts for men's and women's are often bleached and startch is used according to the

manufacturers label.

Home LaunderingHome lanudering the garments is easier to control and even add life to it. Detergents should be well chosen as it

usually contains wetting agents and emulsifiers. Most manufacturers use fillers to the product which takes more

detergent with each wash. However, now detergent companies have started reducing fillers.

Bleach should be added to only colorfast garments otherwise it may gradually remove the dyes or color.Whiteners are either bleach or bluing agents. Chlorine bleaches are safer on cotton/polyester and some man

made fabrics. Using cold water is often more effective.

Softeners often contains wax, which leaves a coating on the fibers. Thoughf if make the fabric feel soft but also

reduces the absorbency of the fiber. Some softeners contain perfume which creats an allergy related problem for

many people.


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Pressing or IroningPressing after cleaning is also considered important. Pressing linen and silk items require skilled professionalpresser. Linen can be pressed with higher heat but should be pressed when damp. Silk requires lower

temperature and it should be steam ironed, better if a press cloth is used. Wool requires steam press and a

moderate temperature.

Dry Clean Machine Wash Hand Wash

Acetate

BrocadeSilk Brocade

ChallisCrepe (silk & Jersey)

Foulard

Gabardine (silk and wool)Rayon

Voile (silk)

Washer silk

Sharkskin PiqueSlipper satin

Taffeta PongeeVelvet Ramie

Velveteen Seersucker,Viscose Terry cloth

Viyella Velour

Wool Washer Rayon

Acrylic

BatisteBoucle

CambricPolyester

Cotton knit Linen

Chambray DimityDenim Viyella (cold water)

Jacquard Doeskin Voile(poly cotton)

Knits Faille Woolblends

Leno Lame Novelty knitsLinen Gingham

Noil Jacquard (poly and cotton)Plisse Madras

PercaleSpandex

Antique Fabric

Antique lace

Buyers GuideOn Fabric Quality

Check the fabric content to see what maintenance it requires to keep looking good. Make sure that itssomething you will have no difficulty doing and its something you want to do.

Let your sense-of-touch be your judge. Fabric must feel pleasant inside and out. Squeeze a handful of fabric for wrinkle reaction. Before buying, ask yourself if its really something you

need.

Fabrics that drape smoothly flows smoothly. Quality made linen, organdy, organza and taffeta must look and stay crisp.

Things to remember

Buy always the best quality that you can afford. Don't ignore workmanship. Make sure you have the poise to carry through whatever you wear. Too tight clothing is not comfortable even if it looks extremely good on you. Too tight clothing tends to break fast. Check for stretching of the garment. Elasticity must be checked before buying.


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Watch out for fabrics that may shrink, expand or discolor.

Fabrics that may shrink or expand

Cotton, Linen, Rayon

Fabrics that may discolor or bleed

Silk , cotton, linen

Fabrics and their properties

Woven Cotton : Including prints, solids, corduroy, cotton suede.

Preshrink all woven cotton before cutting to avoid the 1-2% residual shrinkage, i.e. wet the fabricthoroughly by hand or machine and dry in a dryer or let drip dry

Most cottons are machine washable unless otherwise marked. Use warm or cool water rather than hotfor best color performance.

Most cottons are machine dryable one they have been preshrunk. Us a warm dryer rather than a hot oneand do not overdry.

A fabric softener will reduce wrinkles. Finishes, such as crease resistant, means that wrinkles should shake and hang out easily; permanent

press and wash and wear finishes mean that little or no ironing is necessary after washing.

Finish silk screened cotton with white backgrounds should be tested for color fastness by washing ascrap before laundering the garment. Wash separately in cool water and allow to drip dry or dry in a cooldryer.

Quilted cottons-hand wash and drip dry. Cotton suede and cotton velveteen-if marked washable=hand wash in cold water and drip dry.

Cotton Knits :including doubleknits, singleknits, velours and terry.

Absolutely preshrink all of the above cotton knits before cutting. After preshrinking, machine wash and dry in warm water on the gentle cycle or hand wash in warm and

drip dry.

If velour is washed by machine in warm on the gentle cycle, dry by machine to restore the nap. Use awarm dryer.

Finish silk screened cotton knits and velours-wash in cold water by hand and drip dry or machine washin cool water on the gentle cycle and dry in a cool dryer.

Terry-wash by hand or machine in cool water. Drip dry or dry in a cool dryer. Use ball point needles on all knits for best performance.

Woven Cotton/Polyester :

Machine wash and dry in warm water on the gentle cycle. Use a synthetic or cool setting on the iron.Cotton/Polyester Knits :

See cotton knits. Possible shrinkage should be less. Most cottons are machine dryable once they have been preshrunk.

Use a warm dryer rather than a hot one and do not overdry.


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Woven Polyester :

No preshrinking is necessary. Machine wash in warm water on the gentle cycle. Dry in a warm dryer-a hot one may set wrinkles. If removed when dry, should need no ironing. Use synthetic or cool setting on the iron during construction.

Polyester Knits :including doubleknits, singleknits and warp knits.

See woven polyester. Use ball point needles for best performance.

Polyester/Nylon And Polyester/Rayon Knits :

No preshrinking is necessary. Machine wash in cool water on the gentle cycle or wash by hand in cool water and do not wring. Drip dry or dry in a cool dyer and remove immediately when dry. Should need no ironing; during construction use a synthetic or cool setting. Use ball point needles for best performance.

Woven Nylon :Olana

No preshrinking necessary. Machine wash in cool water on the gentle cycle or wash by hand in cool water and do not wring. Dry in a low to warm dryer and remove immediately when dry or drip dry. Should need no ironing; during construction, use a synthetic or cool setting on the iron. Use a fine needle for best performance.

Nylon Knits :including Antron jerseys, Olana jerseys and Banlons

No preshrinking is necessary. Wash by hand in cool water or by machine in cool water on the gentle cycle. Do not soak or wring. Drip

dry or machine dry in a cool dryer and remove immediately.

Interlock stitch knits can run. Always stay stitch raw edges and never stretch the raw edges whileworking on the garment.

Use ball point needles for best performance.Nylon/Acetate Knits :

See nylon knits.Woven Acetate :

Acetate is usually dry cleaned. If marked washable, test a scrap for color fastness. If fast, hand wash incold water and drip dry.

Some woven acetate is guaranteed machine washable on the company board. If so, wash in cold wateron the gentle cycle with gentle suds.

Use a very cool iron.Woven Acrylic :including challis, crepe and brushed wovens.


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No preshrinking is necessary. Wash in warm water by hand or machine on the gentle cycle. Drip dry or dry in a warm dryer and remove immediately. Should need little or no ironing; during construction use a very, very low setting on the iron.

Acrylic Knits :including doubleknits, singleknits, printed jerseys and ribknits.

Doubleknits machine wash in warm water on the gentle cycle and dry in warm dryer. Singleknits hand wash in cold water and block to shape. Printed jerseys hand wash in cool water and drip dry or machine wash in cool water on the gentle cycle

and dry in a cool dryer.

Ribbed knits hand wash in cold water and block to shape unless guaranteed machine washable on thecompany board.

Use ball point needles for best performance.Acrylic/Polyester Knits :

Doubleknits machine wash in warm water on the gentle cycle. Use a synthetic or cool setting on the iron during construction. 50% POLYESTER/50% RAYON Hand wash cold or dry clean only. 100% RAYON VISCOSE Dry clean only.

Woven Wool And Woolen Blends :

New washable wools wash in cool water by hand or machine on the gentle cycle. Do not soak or wring.Drip dry.

Regular wools and woolen blends dry clean.Wool Knits : including doubleknits and singleknits

Dry clean only Use ball point needles for best performance.

Wool/Polyester Knits :

Hand wash in cold water and block to shape or dry clean. Do not soak or wring. Use ball point needlesfor best performance.

Use a synthetic or cool setting on the iron during construction.Velvet Types :including velveteen, fancy velvet, panne and chenille.

Velveteen: dry clean unless marked washable. If so, hand wash in cool water and drip dry. Fancy velvet-dry clean only Panne and chenille types dry clean only.

Faux Furs And Faux Suedes :

Dry clean fake furs and fake suedes. Use a synthetic or cool setting on the iron on the "wrong" side.


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Burlap :

Preshrink if the item is going to be washed in the future. Wash in cold water.Vinyl :

Wipe clean with a damp sponge. Vinylized finish cotton can be pressed on the cotton side with a cool iron.

Tapestries And Needlepoints :

Dry clean only.Casements :

Those marked PVC, a synthetic, are hand washable in cold water. All others are dry cleanable only.

Fabric Comparison Chart 1Identifying fabric is important. More important is the comparison of fabrics. This makes us know the truequality of a fabric by differentiating it from its substitutes. The following chart gives a complete information

upon different types of fabric at a glance. It gives information about the weaves of the fabric, its characteristics

and the uses, the important part of comparison.

The fabric comparision chart table given below is divided into two parts. Part one gives the characteristics of

fabrics like Acetate, Acrylic, Alpaca, Angora goat, Beaver,Broadcloth, Camel Hair, Canvas, Cashmere etc. For

rest of the fabrics we have another table:

Check out FabricsComparision Chart 2to get details of other fabrics.

Fabrics Weaves Characteristics Uses

Acetate Soft, crisp feel and durable.Clothing, uniforms, lingerie, linings,interlinings.

Acrylic Durable, soft and wooly feel. Used as replacement of wool.

Alpaca

Various

weaves, knits

and weights.

Fine, silk-like, soft, lightweight, and warm.Men's and Women's suits, coats, and

sportswear, linings, sweaters.

Angora goat

Various

weaves andknitted.

Smooth, very strong, and high luster.Carpet, upholstery, curtain, and

automobile cloth.

Angora

rabbit

Variousweaves and

knitted.

Long, very fine, light weight, extremely

warm and fluffy.

Knit wear - gloves, scarves, sweaters,

etc. for children and women.

Beaver Soft, silky, shiny.Fur coats, trimming fur and fabric

garments.

Broadcloth Plain weave. Closely woven with smooth finish. Shirts, dresses, particularly the
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tailored type in plain colors, blouses,summer wear.

Camel hair Twill or plain Light weight, lustrous and soft.

Coats, women's suits, sports coats,sweaters, some blankets and put in

some very expensive oriental rugs.

Also used in (fine) overcoating,topcoating, hosiery and transmission

belts.

Canvas Plain. Mostly rugged.Hair canvas is an interfacing material

in various weights.

Cashmere

(Kashmir)

All weaves

but mostlyplain or twill.

All knits.

Soft, silky and very lightweight.Knitted into sweaters for men andwomen, also women's dresses.

Challis Plain. Soft and very lightweight.

Women's and children's dresses and

blouses, kimonos, neckties, and

sportswear.

Chiffon Plain. Lightweight, sheer, and transparent. Evening wear, blouses and scarves.

Crepe

Mostly plain

but variousweaves.

Crinkled and puckered surface with rough

feel and appearance.

Depending on weight, it is used for

dresses of all types, including longdinner dresses, suits, and coats.

Damask

Figured onJacquard

loom.

Reversible fabric with woven pattern.Sheds dirt.

Denim

Twill - righthand - may beL2/1 or L3/1.

Originally had dark blue, brown or dark

gray warp with a white or gray fillinggiving a mottled look and used only forwork clothes. Comes in heavy and lighter

weights.

Pants, caps, uniforms, bedspreads,slipcovers, draperies, upholstery,sportswear.

Douppioni Plain.Irregular with many slubs. It is imitated in

rayon and some synthetics

Drill Twill. Closer, flatter wales that gabardine.Uniforms, work clothes, slip covers,sportswear, and many industrial uses.

FlannelUsually twill,some plain.

Soft, with a napped surface that partiallycancels the weave. Dull finish. Made in a

variety of weights. Shrinks if not pre-

shrunk. Sags with wear, unless underlined.

Does not shine or hold a crease.

Blazers, dresses, skirts, suits andcoats. Boys suits, jackets, and shirts.

Check out FabricsComparision Chart 2to get details of other fabrics.

Fabric CharacteristicsThe table given below shows the comparison of only the characteristics of few fabrics. For example, water


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retention is very high in cotton and the lowest in polypropylene. Same with the drying time taken, very long in

cotton and vice versa in polypropylene. Cotton and wool shrinks more than polyester and nylon.

Cotton Polyester Nylon

Water Retention High High Low Lowest Medium

Drying Time Long Long Short Shortest ShortHeat Conduction (Wet) High Low Low Low Medium

Comfort Level (Dry) High Medium High Medium Medium

Shrinkage High High Low High Low

Durability Medium Medium High Medium High

Colour Choice High High High Low High

Paddling Suitability Low Low High Medium Medium

Camping Suitability Medium High High Medium Medium

Fabric Comparison Chart 2This is in continuation of our previous table Fabric Comparison Chart. While in the previous table we haddicussed about characteristics, uses of some major fabrics like Acetate, Acrylic, Alpaca, Angora goat, Beaver,

Broadcloth, Camel Hair, Canvas, Cashmere etc., the foloowing table shows the fabric charateristics of

houdstooth, mohair, gabardine, georgette, nylon, organdy, organza, oxford, polyester, satin, sateen, tafetta, silk

etc.

Check outFabrics Comparision Chart 1to get details of other fabrics.

Fabric Comparison Chart 2

Fabrics Weaves Characteristics Uses

Gabardine Steep twill

Clear finish, tightly woven, firm, durable. Wears

extremely well. Inclined to shine with wear.

Hard to press properly.

Men's and women's

tailored suits, coats,raincoats, uniforms, and

men's shirts.

Georgette Plain.

It is characterized by it's crispness, body and

outstanding durability. It is sheer and has a dull

face.

Herringbonetwill

Twill. It is usually created in wool and has varyingqualities.

Suitings, top coatings,sports coats.

HoundstoothBroken twillweave.

Weaned into an irregular check of a four pointedstar.

sportcoats, suits.

MohairPlain or twill or

knitted.Smooth, glossy, and wiry.

Linings, pile fabrics,

suitings, upholstery

fabrics, braids, dressmaterials, felt hats, and

sweaters.

Nylon Very strong, resistant to both abrasion chemicals. Women's hosiery, knitted


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It is elastic, easy to wash and is quite lustrous. Itreturns easily to it's original shape and is non-

absorbent. It is fast drying, resistant to some

dyes.

or woven lingerie, socksand sweaters.

Organdy Plain.

Made with tightly twisted yarns. Crispness is due

to a finish with starch and calendaring whichwashes out, or a permanent crispness obtained

with chemicals. Wrinkles badly unless given a

wrinkle-free finish.

Collars and cuffs,

artificial flowers,

millinery, summer

formals, blouses, aprons.

Organza Plain.

Fine, sheer, lightweight, crisp fabric. It has a

very wiry feel. It crushes or musses fairly easily,but it is easily pressed. Dressy type of fabric,

sometimes has a silvery sheen.

Evening dresses,

trimming, millinery,underlinings for delicate,

sheer materials.

Oxford

Plain variations -

usually basket 2 x

1.

Warp has two fine yarns which travel as one and

one heavier softly-spun bulky filling which gives

it a basket-weave look. Rather heavy.

Men's shirts mostly.

Summer jackets, shirts,

skirts, dresses, andsportswear.

Polyester

It is lightweight, strong and resistant to creasing,

shrinking, stretching, mildew and abrasion. It isreadily washable and is not damaged by sunlight

or weather and is resistant to moths and mildew.

Vary, depending on blend

Pongee Plain. Light or medium weight.Dresses, blouses, summersuits.

Rayon

Its drapability and dyeability are excellent and it

is fairly soft. Rayon does have a tendency to

shrink but does not melt in high temperatures. It

is resistant to moths and is not affected byordinary household bleaches and chemicals.

Clothing, hose.

SateenSateen filling-face

weave.

Lustrous and smooth with the sheen in a fillingdirection. Better qualities are mercerized to give

a higher sheen.

Dresses, sportswear,

robes, pajamas.

Satin Satin.

Usually has a lustrous surface and a dull back.

Made in many colors, weights, varieties,qualities, and degrees of stiffness.

Slips, evening wear,

coats, capes, and jackets,lining fabrics, millinery.

Spandex

It is lightweight and flexible. It resists

deterioration from perspiration, detergent and

body oils. It is characterized by its strength and

durability.

Athletic wear and

foundation garments.

TaffetaUsually plain witha fine cross rib.

It is smooth with a sheen on its surface. Thetextures vary considerably. They have acrispness and stiffness.

Dressy evening wear:suits and coats, slips,ribbons, blouses, dresses.

TussahUsually plain but

also in twill.

It is coarse, strong, and uneven. Dull lustre andrather stiff. Has a rough texture with many slubs,

knots, and bumps.

In lighter weights,

dresses. In heavier

weights, coats and suitsand ensembles.

Velour

Thick, plush pile,with a plain or

satin ground, or

The pile is characterized by uneven lengths(usually two) which gives it a rough look. The

two lengths of pile create light and shaded areas

Dressing gowns, dresses,waist-coats.


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sometimes knitted. on the surface. A rather pebbled effect.

VelvetPile, made with an

extra warp yarn.

velvet may be crush resistant, water resistant,

and drapes well. Has to be handled with care,and pressed on a velvet board.

Eveningwear, at home

wear.

VoilePlain, looselywoven.

Sheer and very light weight. To obtain a top

quality fabric, very highly twisted yarns are used.

Voile drapes and gathers very well.

Dresses, blouses.

WoolIt is very resilient and resistant to wrinkling. It isrenewed by moisture and well known for it'swarmth.

Clothing, blankets, winter

wear.

Check outFabrics Comparision Chart 1to get details of other fabrics.

Documents

Fabrics Information.docx