Fabric Property

7/28/2019 Fabric Property

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Apparel Textiles

Fabric Properties

Sweater

Sportswear

SleepwearSleepwear Underwear

Dress

Activewear

Sweater

Knitted Fabric for Apparel UseKnitted Fabric for Apparel Use

General Properties of Knitted FabricsGeneral Properties of Knitted Fabrics

Pilling (loose structure form pill easily)Pilling (loose structure form pill easily)

Snagging (loop caught by sharp object)Snagging (loop caught by sharp object)

Elastic (good shape retention)Elastic (good shape retention)

Fullness (soft and warm touch)Fullness (soft and warm touch)

Tight fit (good appearance, protection)Tight fit (good appearance, protection)

Extensible (up to 200%)Extensible (up to 200%)

Dimensional stability (shrinkage & skew)Dimensional stability (shrinkage & skew) Dress shirt Work jacket

Work shirtJeans

Suit

SleepwearUniform

Woven Fabric for Apparel UseWoven Fabric for Apparel Use

General Properties of Woven FabricsGeneral Properties of Woven Fabrics

Tearing (compact structure may be torn easily)Tearing (compact structure may be torn easily)

Seam slippage (seam failure by yarn slippage )Seam slippage (seam failure by yarn slippage )

Firm (good appearance and drape well)Firm (good appearance and drape well)

Compact (down proof for thermal wear)Compact (down proof for thermal wear)

Tough (abrasion resistant, good protection)Tough (abrasion resistant, good protection)

High strength (over 100N/cm, durable)High strength (over 100N/cm, durable)

Stiffness (can be too stiff, fabric design can help )Stiffness (can be too stiff, fabric design can help )

Overview of Fabric Properties

& Performance

Overview of Fabric Properties

& Performance

DurabilityDurability

SafetySafety

FunctionalFunctional

MaintenanceMaintenance

ComfortComfort

AppearanceAppearance


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Durabilitya. Strength: tensile, tear, bursting

b. Abrasion resistance: flat abrasion,

flex abrasion, edge abrasion

c. Pilling resistance

a. Strength: tensile, tear, bursting

High tensile strength fabricHigh tensile strength fabric

High Sett High yarn strength

High twistHigh fibre strength

Durable & high performanceDurable & high performance

Longer fibre

Unstable structure

Harsh hand feel

More expensivee.g. Pima cotton

High inter-fibre friction

Low tearstrength

b. Abrasion resistance: flat abrasion,

flex abrasion, edge abrasion

Before abrasionBefore abrasion

Flat abraded areaFlat abraded area

Edge abraded areaEdge abraded area

c. Pilling resistance

Life cycle of Pills:Loose fibres on fabric surface (protruding fibres)

Entanglement of loose fibres due to abrasion

Pill rubbered off due to breakage of rooting fibres

Pilling is the formation of

little pills or entangled fibre

ball clinging on fabric

surface

Factors affecting pillingFibre properties:

Fibre rigidity (immature cotton has more pilling problem)

Fibre strength (affect the ease of pill off)

Yarn compactness:

Higher twist, less pilling

More compact yarn, less pilling (e.g. Worsted yarn isbetter than woolen yarn)

Fabric structure:

More compact the fabric structure, lower pilling

Tightness factor

Pill Formation

0

200

400

600

800

0 2000 4000 6000

Number of rubs

Numberofpills Acrylic

Woollen

Worsted


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d. Drapeability

e. Yarn unevenness: neps, thick place, thin place,

periodic fault

f. Crease recovery, texture, colour

AppearanceDrape isafabricsabilitytoformpleasingfoldswhenbentunderitsownweight.

Itisoneofthemostimportantaestheticconceptcharacteristics

It isof interest inproductdevelopment aswellasconsumeracceptanceIt isof interest inproductdevelopmentaswellasconsumeracceptance

d. Drapeability

Forcurtain,drapes,andgatheredskirts,bendingisinonlyonedirection.

Inmanygarments,exhibitadoublecurvaturethatrequiresbendinginmorethanonedirection.

Undertheseconditions,thefabricmustundergoshearingaswell.

Drapehasbeenshowntoberelatedtobendingandshearingbehaviourandalsotofabricweight.Drapehasbeenshowntoberelatedtobendingandshearingbehaviourandalsotofabricweight. Shearinginwovenfabricsinvolvesyarnsrotationattheirintersections

Shearinginwovenfabricsinvolvesyarnsrotationattheirintersections

Shearingisenhancedbyflexible,smoothyarnsthatcanmoveeasilyoveroneanotherandbylooserweavesthatallowtheyarnsroomtorotate.Highercrimpinawovenfabricalsodecreasestheresistancetoshearing.

Paperusuallyhasalowresistance

to

bending,

but

if

itisbentinonedirection,itdoesnoteasilybendinthe

otherdirection.

Paperusuallyhasalowresistancetobending,butifitisbentinonedirection,itdoesnoteasilybendinthe

otherdirection.Wovenandknittedfabrics,however,cansheartoassumeadoublecurvatureandwill,therefore,exhibitbetter

drapeandshapingproperties.Wovenandknittedfabrics,however,cansheartoassumeadoublecurvatureandwill,therefore,exhibitbetter

drapeandshapingproperties.

Nonwoventextiles,ontheotherhand,donotusuallysheareasilyandwillbehave

morelikepaper.

Nonwoventextiles,ontheotherhand,donotusuallysheareasilyandwillbehave

morelikepaper.

g. Fabric hand: smoothness, fullness and stiffness

h. Permeability of air and water vapour

i. Prickling

j. Initial cold feel

Comfort


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The expert's handle judgement

1. Touch of fabric by hand

2. Detection of fabric bending

stiffness, shear stiffness and

surface smoothness, etc.

3. Summarized expressions about fabric characters.

4. Overall judgement of fabric quality

Standardization of fabric handle

g. Fabric hand: smoothness, fullness and stiffness h. Permeability of air and water vapour

GORE-TEX fabric : an impenetrable barrier against

wind and water while maintaining breathability.

k. Dimensional stability: shrinkage, growth, skewing

l. Colour fastness: to light, washing, perspiration,

rubbing, dry cleaning

m. Wrinkle resistance

Maintenance

Change in length, : Shrinkage, growth

width

Change in shape : Skewness, bow, twist

Maintenance of shape and dimensions of

a fashion product is a significant factor

in its acceptance by consumers.

k. Dimensional stability: shrinkage,

growth, skewing

Relaxation of stress imposed during weaving, knitting or drying

(warping, takedown tension, roller tension).

Items are especially affected by the moisture and heat used in

washing and tumble drying.

Most of the shrinkage due to relaxation occurs with the first wash.

Relaxation shrinkageRelaxation shrinkage Reduction of ShrinkageReduction of Shrinkage

Sanforization

Mercerization

Resin treatment

Heat Setting

TwistingTwisting

Twisting of garments

after laundering


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Color is a highly visible phenomenon, it is

particularly important to most consumers.

Manufacturers of textiles and apparel are very

concerned with color specification, color matching,

and the colorfastness of their products.

Color fastness tests provide exposure to

various agents and treatments that can

potentially alter textile color, including:

water, perspiration, light,

laundering, bleaching,

drycleaning, crocking.

l. Colour fastness: to light, washing,

perspiration, rubbing, dry cleaning

n. Elasticity: elastic recovery, residual strain

o. Thermal insulation

p. Water repellence, water resistance and water

proof

q. Wicking: vertical and horizontal transportation

of liquid

r. Water absorbency

s. Seam slippage

t. UV protection

u. Soil release

v. Snagging resistance

Functional

%100.Re0

01

=

LLLExtsidual

Lo - Initial length

L1 - Length after release

L2 - Length at extension

Lo - Initial length

L1 - Length after release

L2 - Length at extension

Load (N)

Length (cm)

Lo L1 L2

%100covRe02

12

=

LLLLery

n. Elasticity: elastic recovery, residual strain

KES - ThermolaboKES - Thermolabo

o. Thermal insulation

If air is confined in small spaces, then convection isalso minimised, and the air is dead. The higher

the volume of dead air within a textile structure, thebetter the insulation value of the textile.

If air is confined in small spaces, then convection isalso minimised, and the air is dead. The higher

the volume of dead air within a textile structure, thebetter the insulation value of the textile.

Wool is a good fibre for insulation because itsnatural crimp maintains a high volume of dead air.

Wool is a good fibre for insulation because itsnatural crimp maintains a high volume of dead air.

Finer fibres have more surface area, which resultsin more dead air space between fibres. Anexample is the effective use of micro-fibres incoats for use in cold climates.

Finer fibres have more surface area, which resultsin more dead air space between fibres. Anexample is the effective use of micro-fibres incoats for use in cold climates.

Factors affecting fabric thermal resistanceFactors affecting fabric thermal resistance

An important factor

affecting the r - value is

the amount ofair spacecontained within atextile structure.

Textile fibres are poorconductors of heat, butair conducts even lessheat.


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Perspiration in vapour form, body is relatively comfortable.

When this vapour cannot escape, the vapour condense tosweat, increasing discomfort.

Under these conditions, the contribution of textile fabricsto comfort depends on their ability to carry away thewater vapour.

Gore-tex

p. Water repellence, water resistance and

water proofq. Wicking: vertical and horizontal

transportation of liquid

s. Seam slippage

Snagging is the catching of a thread by a sharp point

or rough surface forming an unsightly puckering.

Any fabric with long yarn floats such as in a stain

weave, or a knitted fabric with long loop is more

likely to snag than are other types of fabric structures.

v. Snagging

resistance

w. Toxicity: residual dye stuff and other

finishing agent

x. Flammability

Safety Apparel Products:Recommended fibre RequirementsAnd fabric type (at most five )

1. Sweater ______________ _________

2. Mens suit ______________ _________

3. Mens dress shirt ______________ _________

4. Sleepwear ______________ _________

5. Evening gown ______________ _________

6. Mens work shirt ______________ _________

7. Ski jacket ______________ _________

8. Underwear ______________ _________

9. Basketball vest ______________ _________

10. Uniform trousers ______________ _________

Documents

Fabric Property