EXPLORING THE FORGOTTEN PLEASURE QUARTER OF KYOTO By MASHA VAN DER HEIJDE

8/12/2019 EXPLORING THE FORGOTTEN PLEASURE QUARTER OF KYOTO By MASHA VAN DER HEIJDE

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Tokuriki Tomikichiro, The Willow Tree at the gate of Shimabara, 1945

EXPLORING THE FORGOTTEN PLEASURE QUARTER OF KYOTO

By MASHA VAN DER HEIJDE

Hidden in Kyoto is a forgotten area called Shimabara. It is a quiet

neighborhood where only the occasional tourist wanders around. Not

many people will expect that this hushed quarter formed the glittering

stage of geisha, courtesans, music, dance, arts, literature and romance

in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries.

Not much is left of the once so fashionable quarter. In the old days it

used to be situated in the middle of f ields, surrounded by a wall and moat.

Nowadays the area can be reached through a maze of narrow streets

that lead to the original massive wooden entrance-gate that still stands, a

willow tree hanging over it.

Past the gate, a right turn leads to an old wooden building

called Wachigaiya. Built 300 years ago, this used to be the

living quarters of top-end courtesans. From this house

beautiful women paraded towards their banquets, faces

painted white, dozens of hairpins in their coiffure and wearing

layer-upon-layer of deep-colored kimonos. The building still

holds several elegant banquet rooms where rich patrons can

enjoy parties with the handful of courtesans that remain, but tourists are forbidden to enter and

have to do with the outside.



At the end of the main street stands the two-story Sumiya

building. In the old days this was a cultural salon where

famous artists, writers and politicians gathered for banquets

and dinner-parties accompanied by geisha and courtesans

who performed tea ceremonies, sang and danced. Built in

1641 it is a unique example of Japanese architecture and

gives insight to the architectural taste of merchants, in contrast

to temples and palaces that depict the style of the Japanese

elite. Though similar salons existed in Tokyo, Osaka and other areas of Kyoto, Sumiya is the only

surviving example.

In the old days, guests entered through the main gate where

they left their swords in dark wooden drawers before joining a

banquet. Nowadays tourists enter through a pleasant courtyard

into the spacious kitchen. On the ground floor are several

tatami-mat rooms adorned with refined paintings on sliding

paper-doors and folding screens. They are painted by famous

Japanese artists like Yusa Buson (1716-84), Maruyama Okyo,

Kishi Ganku (1756-1836), Yamada Gazan and Emura Shumpo.

But not just painters visited the salon. All famous scholars and

artists visited and this was also the meeting place of a famous

Japanese poet group called Shimabara Haidan.

The rear of building leads to an elegant garden and a tea house, but the most impressive rooms are

on the second floor. To visit you have to sign up for a guided tour in Japanese, but don’t let the

language be a barrier because the second floor is where the real treasure of Sumiya lies. Here,

each room has a different theme. The Chinese room has black lacquered walls and ceilings inlaid

with mother-in-pearl. The fan-room has doorknobs, window-frames and golden ceiling decorated

with fans. A stage marks the area where geisha and courtesans played their instruments and sitting

in these rooms you might be able to image the geisha and courtesans entertaining customers with

their wit, music and arts.

Dusk falling over Shimabara must have been vigorous, for it was during these hours that the

quarter came to life. Nowadays it is a quiet and relaxing experience. Staying here in the traditional

Ryokan Sanki, with night-lights filtered through the paper windows and a photo of courtesans

hanging above your head makes this unique Shimabara experience complete.

Getting there:

Take bus no. 205 at the B-3 bus stop in front of Kyoto station. Get off at the fourth stop; Shichijyo



Mibu. Walk 300 meters north, turn left at the second traffic light. Proceeding for 50 meters you will

find the Shimabara Gate.

To visit Sumiya (now called Sumiya Motenashi Art Museum 角屋もてなしの文化美術館 ) an

appointment is required. Special tours (requiring advance reservations) allow access to the

Sumiya's 2nd storey and are conducted daily. An English pamphlet is provided, but you might also

consider arranging a volunteer guide. The best way to do this for non Japanese speakers is at

the Ky ōto Tourist Information office located in JR Ky ōto Station Building along with a volunteer

Japanese interpreter. For places to stay, Ryokan Sanki offers a traditional stay right in the middle of

Shimabara. A single room without bath is 4,000 yen. Call 075-351-6339 for reservations.

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EXPLORING THE FORGOTTEN PLEASURE QUARTER OF KYOTO By MASHA VAN DER HEIJDE