ExpatBackup:Living(well)inMonrovia

ExpatBackup,Issue1

ExpatBackup:Living(well)inMonrovia1

ExpatBackup:Living(well)inMonrovia2

Welcome

ThisisthefreeinauguralissueoftheExpatBackupemagazine.Init,IsharewithyouwhatI’velearnedfromtwoyearslivinginMonrovia.AHertwoyearsinmostcountries,yougraduatefromjust‐arrivedstatus.InLiberia,itmakesyouaveteran.

There’ssLllenoughbadpressaboutLiberiaandthechallengesitfaces—ImenLon(butdon’tlinkto)theViceGuideinparLcular—thatyourparentsandanyfriendswho’vedonetheirduediligencewithaGooglesearchareprobablyfreakingoutrightnow.Ifyouhaven’tmovedyet,they’reprobablyprayingthatyou’llpickanyothercountry.Mymother,adevelopmentveteran,suggestedAfghanistan.Don’tworry.You’vemadetherightchoicetobewhereyouare.Andthisguideisgoingtohelpyou.

Awordatthebeginning:thisguideisnotforeveryone.ItwillhelpexpatriatesandreturningLiberiansseRleintolifeinMonrovia,connecttoaninspiraLonalandacLvecommunity,andmaketheirworkandtheirlivesjustaliRlebitbeRer.

You’retheonedoingthehardstuff—humanitarianassistance,businessstart‐up,charitablereliefwork.I’mjustheretomakeiteasier.

‐ ElieLosleben,ExpatBackup

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WhatisExpatBackup?

WhatisExpatBackup?ExpatBackupisaemagazine,blogandwebsiteabouthowtobeahealthier,happieraidworker.MyexpatexperLsewillhelpyoubehealthierandhappier,insideandout.AHerall,aidworkersneedhumanitarianassistancetoo.

I’llbebloggingandpublishingafreeExpatBackupemagazineregularly,coveringissueslikehowtoavoidburn‐out,howtomakethebiggestimpactinyourcommunity,andhowtocookhealthylocalfoodwhentheonlymarketopLonsareeggplantandokra.Signupfore‐mailupdatessoyoudon’tmissathing.

AquickwordaboutthisissueThisemagazinewasdesignedtobereadonyourscreen,andI’vemadeanefforttokeepthedesigncolorfulbutminimal.I’vemadethelinkstowebsitesthatImenLondarkblue.

I’mlearning,sothedesignwillimproveas wegrow,buttheemphasiswillbeonkeepingthefilesizelowsothatyoucandownloadthefreeemagazineeasilyonlow‐bandwidthInternetconnecLons.

WhoamI?I’malifelongglobalnomadwho’sspentmostofmylifelivingandworkinginAfrica.I’maconsultantforvarious

internaLonalorganizaLonsandNGOsinthefieldsofICT,communicaLons,evaluaLons,healthandeducaLon.

DuringmytwoyearsinLiberia:• IhelpedcoordinateaninnovaLveonline educaLonprogramthatconnectsAfricanclassroomstotheInternetandeachother;

• Ico‐foundedasustainablecommunity‐basedNGOinRobertsportthatsupports surfing,microenterpriseandconservaLonacLviLes,includingtheMamaLiberiaSewingCo‐op,

• IstartedTheAfricanT‐ShirtCompanyandhandedtheLiberiadivisionovertolocalownership,

• Istartedandranaverysuccessful(perhapstoomuchforitsowngood...)tapasandcocktailsbarinMonrovia.

I’llsharemystrategiesforsuccessonExpatBackup.

Beforeyougethere:

Monroviainspiresafiercelyloyalcrewofwriters,bloggersandprofessionalswhohavepavedthewaytomakelearningaboutyournewhomeeasy.Hint:childsoldiersdon’tpatrolthecitystreetsanymore.

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Learningaboutyournewhome

Herearesomegoodresourcesyou’llwanttocheckoutbeforeyougo:

• TheLiberianProfessionalNetworkhasa“TravelingtoMonrovia”guideontheirwebsiteandforthosebringingitemsthroughtheport,there’salsoa“FreePortGuide.”(AttheLmeofwriLngthis,thelinksIhavearen’tworking,orI’dincludethem.)

• PoliLcalscienceexpertandblogger,ShelbyGrossman,runstheLiberiaExpatGoogleGroup.Istronglysuggestyoujointhiscommunityanduseitasaresource.Thereareoverfivehundredofus,though,sopleaseremembernottoclick“Replytoall.”

• MovedtoMonrovia.comhasaverycoolArchitecturalTourofMonroviathatwillgiveyouagoodpictureofthecitybeforeyouarrive.

• Ifyoucangetyourhandsonthem,LiberiaTravelandLifeMagazineandBusinessLiberiaare greatglossiestocalmtheskepLcs.IsuggestleavingacopyofLiberiaTravelandLifewithyourmom‐‐itwillmakeherfeelbeRer.

• YoucandownloadtheLiberiachapterof‘LonelyPlanetWestAfrica’here,butdon’texpectthelisLngstobeup‐to‐date!

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Moneybusiness

CurrencyLocalLibertyDollars(LD)topoutindenominaLonsof100,whichisaliRlemorethanadollarattheLmeofwriLng.AllsmallpurchasescanbecarriedoutinLD,butplanonusingUSdollarsforallotherpurchases.Supermarkets,storesandrestaurantswillalwaysacceptLDpaymentatthatday’spostedexchangerate,butitquicklybecomescumbersometocarryaroundthickstacksoflocalcurrencyjusttopayforyourlunchorgroceries.It’sgoodtohaveLDonhandforLpstoyourparkingaRendantsandtobeabletostoponthesideoftheroadtobuyfreshcoconutwater.

TippingAsIsawfromrunningthebar,mostpeopleLpsosLngilyinLiberiait’srathershocking.Ihaveahospitalitybackground,andcantellyouthatserversinMonroviagetpaidalmostnothingandrelyonLpstogetby.Iftheirserviceispoor,givethempointersandposiLveencouragement,butdon’tmakethemsufferbynotleavingaLp.Asmosteverywhere,tenpercentisstandardandmuchappreciated.Remember,yourgenerositygoesalongwaytowardsimprovingpeople’slives.

GeNngcashBeforeyoucometoMonrovia,getaVisadebitcardthatallowsyoutowithdrawmoneyfromyourcheckingaccountatinternaLonalATMs.OnlyVisa,attheLmeofwriLng,haslocalATMsnetworkedtointernaLonalbanksinLiberia.Ifyoudon’thaveaVisadebitcard,you’regoingtoneedtoeitherbringstacksofcashwithyouorsetupalocalbankaccountthatyoucantransfermoneyinto.

CreditcardsAttheLmeofwriLngthis,almostnowhereinMonroviaasidefromlargehotelsacceptscreditcards;andthesehotelswilloHenprocesscreditcardsonlyforthelargerpurchasesoftheirovernightguests.Seeabove,andstrategizeawaytoaccesscashbeforeyougethere.

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Whattopack

Liberiais,forthemoment,basedonanimporteconomy.AlmosteverythingyoucangetatadecentAmericansupermarket,youcangetinMonrovia.Here’salistofwhatyoucan’tget,andsomeexamplesofwhatyoucan:

Youshouldprobablybring:

• Sunscreenyoulike.Atonepoint,alltheyhadinshopsherewere3ozboRlesofsomekid’ssunscreenwithafrogonitthatdoubledashandsaniLzer.

• Acceptableinsectrepellent.Youcangetithere,butboRlesoHenwon’tdisplaytheiringredientsorcountriesoforigin,withlevelsofDEETcloseto100%.

• Tampons.Don’tbringTampaxoroneswithpaperapplicators,becausethehumiditywillunrollthemandrenderthemunusable.

• Condoms.Pricesarehigh,youcannotbuyinbulk,andsomesuppliershavehintedthatqualitymaybeaffectedbytropicalshippingandstorage.

• Birthcontrolunlessyou’reonthecontracepLvepill28‐daycycleofLevonorgestreland

Ethinylestradiol.Ifso,luckyyou—andseebelow.

• Malariaprophylaxis.I’llgetintothedifferencesbetweenallthesewonderfuldrugsintheStayingHealthysecLon.Fornow,knowthatmalaroneandmalanilarecovetedandtradablecommodiLesinMonroviaandstockupbeforeyougethere.On

theotherhand,ifyou’retakingdoxycycline,itcostslessthan$0.10apilllocallysoit’sprobablycheapertobuyitwhenyougethere.

• Alltheworkclothesyou’llneed,especiallynicejackets,shirts,trousers,beltsandshoes.

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Whattopack

Thingsyoucan’tfindhereandmightwant:

• AtentforcampinginthebeauLfuloutdoors,especiallybecausetents areoHencoolerandmoreinsect‐proofthanmanyguesthouses.

• Ayogamat.Laptopspeakers.Adigitalcamera.

• Aheadlampforreadinginyourtent,althoughIjustusetheflashlightonmymobilephone.

• Herbalanddietarysupplementsofwhateverkindandbrandyouprefer.

• Anextrachargerforyourlaptop,becauseyourswilldieattheworstpossiblemomentandmaybeyoucanfindoneintown,butmaybeyoucan’t.

Youdon’tneedtobring:

• Anyweaponsforself‐defense.I’mwriLngthisherebecauseI’vebeenasked…

• Basicfirstaidandmedicinelikeacetaminophen,ibuprofen,anLhistamines,band‐aids,andso

on.IfyouhavespecificquesLonsaboutyourprescripLonmedicaLons,asktheGoogleGroupsLiberianExpats,knownasthe“ExpatList”fromhereon.

• Birthcontrolpillsifyou’reona28‐daycycleof21daysonapillof0.15mgLevonorgestrelplus0.03mgEthinylestradiol,and7daysofaironsupplementplacebo.Twenty‐eightdayblistersof“familyplanningpills,”brandnameMicrogynonEDandmadebytheGermanpharmaceuLcalcompanySchering,aresubsidizedinLiberiaandcostlessthan$1.Youmighthavetolookabittofindthem,though,assomepharmaciesinexplicablyrefusetostockbirthcontrolofanyform.ButthoseAmericansamonguswhowereusedtopayingupto$150amonthforbirthcontrolcannowpay$0.30amonth.Nice,right?

• Toiletrieslikeshampoo,condiLoner,bodyloLon,toothbrushes,toothpaste,shavingsupplies,andsoon.SupermarketshaveadecentselecLonofmostlyUSbrands.

• Toomanyclothes.YoucanalwaysvisitthesecondhandMaJuahmarketforanewpairofjeansora coolt‐shirt.

Likewhatyou’rereadingsofar?Considerforwardingthis

emagazinetoacolleaguewho’sjustbeenassignedtoMonrovia.It’sfree,soyoucanfeelgoodaboutsharingthelove.

I’mbloggingaboutexpatlifestyledesignoveratExpatBackup,sosignuptoreceiveemailupdatesandbesurenottomissa

post.It’sfree,it’scool,andIpromisenottoshareyouremailwithanyone,ever.

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Paperwork

ThisisabriefoverviewofafewofthemostessenLalpapersandpermitsyouwillneedaHeryourfirstmonthorsoinLiberia.Itisbynomeansacompletelistandit’suptoyoutomakesureyouunderstandandfollowtherulestokeepyourstay—andyourworkin‐country—legalandGovernment‐approved.

BeforeyouaRemptanyofthispaperwork,stoponBroadStreetandgetastackofpassportphotostaken.You’regoingtoneedthem,andthey’realwaysgoodtohavearound.

VisasUnlessyouknowpeoplewhocanarrangewiththeMinistryofImmigraLontohaveanarrivalvisawaiLngforyouattheairport—andIdon’trecommendit,you’llneedtoorganizeyourvisawiththeclosestLiberianEmbassyorConsulatebeforeyougetontheplane.ChecktheirwebsitefordetailsandpleasebeproacLveinfollowingup.Afriend’sparentshadtheirpassportsstashedinadraweratoneLiberianEmbassy,wherethey’dbeenforgoRenforweeks,anditcausedalotofunnecessarystress.Yourvisa,mostlikely,willbevalidforonemonth.AHerthat,youwillrenewitwithImmigraLonforthreemonths.AHerthat,youcanapplyforaresidencypermit.

ResidencypermitAresidencypermitwillallowyoutoresideinLiberiaforayear.IwasinterviewedbeforeIgotmine,whichIfoundimpressiveandsurprisinglypleasant.

WorkpermitsPleasemakesureyouhavetheappropriateworkpermitsandauthorizaLonsfortheworkthatyou’redoing,whetherNGOorprivatesector.Asexpatriates,weareguestsinLiberiaandgovernmentprocessesandprocedures,howeverarduous,mustbetreatedwithrespect.Ifyou’relucky,youragencyoremployerwilltakecareofthisforyou.Ifyoufreelance,likeme,thanksforfollowingtherules.

Re‐entrypermitsEvenwitharesidencypermitorvalidvisa,youmusthaveare‐entrypermitifyouplantoleaveandre‐enterLiberia.MakesureyougetonefromImmigraLonin

advanceofyourjourney.Sure,theofficersattheairportmighthavepityonyouandletyouinwithoutone,butwhycauseheadaches?

DriverslicenseYoucandrivewithaUSlicenseforonemonthaHeryourarrivalandwithanInternaLonalDriversPermitfortheduraLonofitsvalidity,butstayanylongerandgetbehindawheelatyourperil.Givingthetrafficpoliceanyreasontodetainyouisaskingforunnecessarystress,especiallywhentheMinistryofTransportonBroadStreetcangetyouatwo‐yearlicensecompletewithacoolhologramoftheLiberianflag.Consideritasouvenirandkeepyourselfoutoftrouble.

Awordaboutfixers.Manypeoplehavea“maninside”whowilloffertohelpsmoothyourwaythroughthevariousprocessesofbureaucracynecessarytolegalizeyournewlifeinLiberia.Whetherornotyoutakeadvantageoftheirblackmarketservicesisuptoyou,butpleaseatleastacknowledgethatbygoingoutsidethesystem,you’recondoningcorrupLoninagovernmentsystemthatneedsgoodexamplesoflaw‐abidingtransparency.I’mnotjudging—I’mjustsaying.

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Findingaplacetolive

PeopleoHenthinkthatlivinginAfricamustbecheapbecausemanypeopleinAfricaarepoor.Well,Ihavenewsforyou.ThecostoflivinginLiberiaparallelswhatIwasspendingonfood,rentandgoingoutinManha.an,whereIlivedbeforeImovedhere.Letmesaythatagain.LivinginMonroviacanbeasexpensiveaslivinginNewYorkCity.

Deepbreath.

Ofcourse,youdon’tneedtospendyourhard‐earnedsalaryonsushieveryweekandHeinekenseverynight,butwhenitcomestofindingaplacetolive,youneedtobepreparedforexpensive.Atwo‐bedroombeachsideduplexinSinkorwithaccesstoapoolcostsaround$3.5kamonth,giveortake.It’snotgoingtosurpriseyouthatmostpeople,evencouplesandolderprofessionals,decidetoshare.

FindingyourownplaceSincenooneinMonroviayethasdecidedtobecomearealestatebrokerandhelpnewarrivalsfinddecentaccommodaLon,you’reonyourownforthisone.Mostpeople,evenlongLmeMonroviaresidents,sendablindemailtotheExpatList,suchisthelackofcentralizedhousinginformaLon.Init,theymenLonwhatthey’relookingfor—I’dsuggest24‐hoursecurityandelectricity,butIhaveahomeofficesothat’sjustme.AtthispointinMonrovia’sascenttourbancomforts,youdon’thavetomenLonthatyou’dlikeaccesstorunningwater.

Somethingstolookoutforwhenyou’relookingforaplace:

• IsthelandlordcomfortableputngtheleaseinwriLng?AlthoughthecourtsinLiberiaarewidelyconsideredtobecorruptandthere’snosuchthingassmallclaimscourt,it’sgoodtohaveyouragreements(servicesprovidedforpaymentrendered,overwhatLmeperiod)inwriLng.Ifyourlandlordisreluctanttodothis,findsomeonewhorespectsthebasictenantsofbusiness.Thelastthinkyouwantisstressonthe homefront.

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Findingaplacetolive

• Findoutwhereyourpoweriscomingfrom.TheLiberianElectricCompany,orLEC,isslowlybutsurelyputngMonroviabackonthegrid,butmostcompoundsandhouseshaveback‐upgenerators.Clarifywhopaysforfuel—andwhogoestogetit.

• Istheplacefurnishedornot?YoucanfurnishasmallareaverycheaplyandaRracLvelywithlocalitemspurchasedfromaroundMonrovia,sothiscouldbeachoicethatshaveshundredsofdollarsoffyourmonthlyrent.

• IfyoucanseephotosorhavetheluxuryofvisiLngyourroombeforeyoutakeit,makesuretherearebarsonthewindowsbutalsothatyouhaveanalternateescapeincaseofafire.Yourlandlordcanfithingesonthebarssothattheylock—andunlock—fromtheinside toprovideyouwithafireescape.Hemightneedtoreplacethemtodothis,butifyou’restayingforthelongterm,I’dadviseit.

• GetonthephonewithyourpotenLalhousematesandgetafeelforhowthegroupmakesdecisionsandproblem‐solves.Don’tbeshy—thisistheir

interviewasmuchasit’syours,andyoudon’twanttobehavingturfbaRlesaboutwhoisusingwhatshelffortheirbreakfastcereal—trustme.

StayinginahotelMaybeyou’reonasweetperdiemanddon’tmindanextendedstayatoneofMonrovia’sbeRer‐knownhotels.CongratulaLons.Otherthantheobviousbig‐rollers(MambaPoint,CapeHotel,Kendeja),IrecommendALaLagunain

CongoTown.Ithasair‐condiLonedrooms,Internetaccessandisonalovelybeachsidelagoon.It’salsoincrediblyaffordableandtheoutsidegardenisverypopularinevenings‐‐sopopularthatifyou’relookingforsomeplacedependablyquiet,youmightwanttolooksomewhere else.

YoualsomightwanttoemailtheExpatListtoseeifthereareanyshorttermsub‐letsavailable.

GeNngseYled

Maybeyou’llbeinMonroviaforthreemonths,maybeforthreeyears.Eitherway,you’llwanttomakeyourselfashappyandcomfortableaspossibleinyournewhome,right?

Safety

AccordingtoUNstaLsLcs,Liberia hasepidemicratesofviolence,sexualandotherwise.ThisisfocusedpredominantlytowardsthelocalpopulaLon,parLcularlythepoorandvulnerable,butyou’llwanttokeepthisinmindasyoumoveabout.

WhenIwasrunningmybar,ourstaffwouldn’tdaretrytogohomeaHer11pm.Allofthem,menandwomen,youngandold,agreeditwassimplytoodangerous.Ifthepolicedidn’tgiveyoutrouble,the“rogues”wouldgetyouforsure.AHermyassistantchefwasrobbedatknifepointwhilewaiLngforataxi,wedecidedtotransformthefurnituretomaRressesonthefloor,wherethestaffparLLonedthemselvesandsleptundisturbedunLlmorning.Itkepteveryonesafe,andsafeisthefoundaLonforhappy.

SafetyisaverypersonalmaRer.Howyoufeelintheworlddependsonwhereandhowyougrewup,andisalsoafuncLonofsocioeconomicstatus.Asanexpatriatewomanlivingonaguardedcompound,I’mfarsaferthanaLiberianwomansharinga

roominBusyCorner,andmenwhoworkassecuritycontractors areexponenLalsaferthaneitherofus.ButMonroviahasmassivedispariLesbetweenitswelloffanditspoor,andhavingastrategyforwhattodowhenyoufeelthreatenedisagoodplanforallofus.Itdoesn’tmaRerifyou’re6’5”withthebuildofarugbyplayer,oryouadvisetheArmedForcesofLiberiaforyourdayjob.TherearesituaLonsinMonroviainwhichyouwillfindyourselfvulnerable,andyouneedtobeprepared.

SafetyathomeMovingintoanewhouse,makesurethelocksarenewandthatonlyyouandyourtrustedhousecleanerandlandlordhaveacopy.Insistonchangingthelockswhenkeysgetlostandensureyourhousecleanerunderstandstheimportanceofsafeguardinghisorheraccesstoyourhome.

Twenty‐fourhoursecurityguards arethenormforcompoundsandprivatehousesinMonrovia,andyoushouldbecomfortablewiththeguardsyou’vebeenassigned.Gettoknowthemandmakeit

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Safety

clearwhatyouexpectfromthem.They’reprobablynotwellsupervised,sotakeituponyourselftocommunicateregularlyabouttheirduLesandgivethemlotsofposiLvefeedback.Themoretheyseeyouasasupervisorandamentor,themoremoLvatedtheywillbetodotheirjob.ArrangingthermosesofNescafewithplentyofmilkandsugar,asteadysupplyofflashlightbaReries,andaplaceforthemtochargetheirphonesgoesalongwaytowardsestablishinggoodrapport.Duringrainyseason,arrangeforthemtobuyarainjacket,rainpantsandanumbrella.TheseliRleinvestmentsshowthatyoucareaboutthewellbeingofthepeoplearoundyou,andinturntheywillcareforyou.Iftheydon’t,it’syourrighttoaskthattheybereplacedwithmorededicatedpersonnel.

WhenIbecamearapecrisescounselor,oneofthefirstthingsourtrainertolduswasthatmanyaRackshappenbecausethefrontdoorisopen.Lockitandkeepitlocked.

KeeppersonalinformaLon,likewhereyouliveandwhoyoulivewith,toyourself.It’snobody’sbusinessifyoulivealoneinabeachhouseneartheChineseEmbassyinCongotown,andyourresidenceandlivingstatusshouldnotbecommonknowledge.Makesureyourhousecleanerknowsthisaswell.

RoadsafetyRoadaccidentsarethenumberonecause ofexpatriatedeathinLiberia,sodrivesafelyandmakesureeveryoneinyourvehicleiswearingaseatbelt.CarryyourlicenseandyourhealthinsurancecardwithyouatallLmes,andkeepacopyofyourlocalemergencycontactandanymedicalissues,includingyourbloodtype,inyourwallet.

ThemajorityofLiberiansarecareful,cauLousdriversalthoughtheydoliketoweavebetweenlanesalotandpulloverunexpectedly.Especiallyatnight,mostdriversmaintainlowspeedsandpasswithcauLon.Setagoodexampleanddothesame.

Roadrage,especiallyinTubmanAvenueanddowntowntraffic,isbecomingincreasinglycommonasMonroviafloodswithmoreandmorecars.Pleasebe

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Safety

paLent;remindyourselfthataggressionontheroadisdangerous,andyoudon’thavetheluxuryofagoodemergencyroomtopatchyouupifthingsgowrong.

Beextravigilantwhenloadingandunloadingyourcar,anddrivewithyourdoorslockedandwindowsatleasthalfwayup.I’vehadexperienceswherepeoplereachinandtrytoopenthedoortogetinsideandit’sgoodtomakeahabitofkeepingyourcarinaccessibletoanyonenotinit.

WalkingaroundMonroviaYouwillquicklylearnhowcomfortableyoufeelwalkingonthestreetsofMonrovia.UnlikeotherAfricancapitals,wherethereisconstantsalesmanshipandoHenaggression,mostoftheaRenLonyou’llgetonthestreetisfriendlyandcurious.Feelfreetorespondandmakefriends,ifyoufeelcomfortable.Alsofeelcomfortablesetngclearboundaries,especiallyifyou’redealingwithunwantedorsexualaRenLon.

“Givingthehand,”oHenputsaparLcularlyvocalgreeterinline—agesturethatstartswithyourhandout,palmdown,andwhereyouflipyourpalmuplikeyou’reaskingaquesLon.Thisistheequivalentofsaying,“Yes?Andwhatareyouyellingatmefor?”andespeciallyifofferedwithasmile,willremindyouraudiencethatthey’resinglingyouout.Tellingsomeonethatsomething“isnotcorrect”isalsoawaytogentlychastenanyimpolitebehavior.IfyoubegintofeeluncomfortableinyoursurroundingsatanyLme,though,it’sbestnottoengage—justleave.Youdon’tneedtoexplainyourselforfeelguiltyforsetngyourownboundaries.

Ifsomeoneshakesyourhandandendsupholdingontoit,theyarebeingfriendlyinaWestAfricanway.Ifthat’sgoingtomakeyouuncomfortable,goforthequickone‐offRastafarianfist‐bumpinstead.I’msayingthisasawoman,butit’sthesameforanyone.Ignoreyourboundariesatyourperil.

I’vehadmyarmgrabbedandbeensurroundedveryquicklybyaggressivemenbefore,whilewalkinginMonroviaalone.Thisseemstobeunusual,butIalwaysveertothesideofcauLonnowandtakeaLiberianormalefriendwithmeifI’mgoingtobewalkingaround.This diffusesalotofunwantedaRenLonand

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Safety

potenLallytrickysituaLons.Again,it’syourchoice,thisisjustwhatIfeelmostcomfortablewithbasedonmyexperiences.

Thatsaid,I’donlywalkaroundMonroviaduringdaylightandavoideveningstrolls,especiallyinthecitycenter.Someplaces,especiallystreetlights,getquitecrowdedatnight.Othersaretotallydeserted.I’dalsoavoidwalkingthroughtheWestPointareaatallwithoutaknowledgeableguide thatknowstheneighborhood.Thereareothersimilarlyroughpartsoftownthatyoumightwanttosee.Isaygoforit,justgoinagroupandkeepyoureyesopen.

DealingwithconfrontaZonYouwillprobablyatsomepointdealwithasituaLonthathasratcheteduptoahighvolumeandintensitylevelwithoutwarningorunderstandingwhy.Liberiansareveryvocalandusedtosolvingtheirproblemsverbally,oHenwiththeeagerparLcipaLonofeveryonearoundthem.WhenasituaLonbecomesoneinwhichyoufeelyelledatandsingledout,itcanbedifficulttodecidequicklywhatthebestcourseofacLonis.Youwanttoberespecvulandconciliatory,butifyoucan’tgetawordinedgewiseandacrowdisgathering,it’sprobablybesttoignorethedramaandgetoutofthere.

Inmyexperience,itisverydifficulttocalmthesekindsofsituaLonsdowntoapointwherethetwoparLescanrespecvullydiscusswhatevertheissueis.Intheworkandhomeenvironment,setandenforceclearboundariestocommunicatethatyellingisnotaproblemsolvingtechnique.Whenvolumelevelsstarttoincrease,immediatelyaskthepersontospeakcalmlyandrespecvully,andstopwhatyou’redoingtolisten,problemsolveconstrucLvely,andmakethemfeelheard.

Rememberthatalmosteveryoneyoumeethasexperiencedthelossandtraumaofwar.Post‐traumaLcstressdisorderislikelyrampantanduntreated,soit’snotunusualforasituaLontogofromzerotoahundredinlessthanaminute.BepaLent,becompassionateandbekind,butdon’tletyourselfgetinvolvedinascreamingmatch.It’snotagoodwaytomodelproblemsolvingandit’snever,everworthit.

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Safety

WatersafetyDrowning,accordingtomysources,isthe secondcauseofexpatdeathinLiberia.ManyorganizaLonsusedtoforbidtheirinternaLonalemployeesfromsetngfootintheocean.AfewdedicatedcommunitymembersarestarLngfledglingwatersafetyprogramstotrainandemploylifeguardsonthemajorbeaches,butpleasebewarned:theoceaninLiberiaisfierceanddangerous.Strongcurrents,swellsandripLdescanknockyoudownandcarryyououttosea,andtherearen’tmotorboatsorjetskistocomerescueyou.

Never,ever,goswimmingunaRended.KeepyourfeetontheboRomatallLmes.LearnhowtorecognizethesignsofripLdesinthewaterandstaywellclear.

Ifyou’relearninghowtosurf,alwayssurfwithabuddyandstayawareofyourenergylevel.Leaveplentyofpaddlepowertogetyoubacktoshoreandhaveahandsignalthatcommunicatesifyou’re indanger—wavingtwoarmsintheairseemstobethemostaccepted.

Ifyou’resurfingwithbeginners,keepyoureyeonthemwhentheytakeawaveandarepaddlingbackout.Iftheygetcaughtinsideduringaset,makesureyouseethatthey’reokaybeforeyougobacktolookingatthehorizon.

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Furnishingyourhouse

Herearesomepointersforwheretogetlocalfurnishingsforyourplace:

FoammaYressesandfurnitureThereareacoupleoflocalfoamcompaniesthatlinethemainroadonBushrodIsland.NotonlywilltheycutafoammaRressexactlytoyourspecificaLons,butyoucanalsohavethemcutoRomans,largesofacushions,andanythingelsethatsuitsyourfancy.CoveryournewfoamfurniturewithlapaclothfromWaterside.

CurtainsandupholsteryTheshopsinWatersidecontainadazzlingandsomeLmesoverwhelmingdisplayoffabric.“Lapa”wrapsaresoldinlengthsof6yardsandareenoughtomakewhatLiberianscallan“Africansuit”—adresswithaheadscarforan“Africanshirt”andtrousers.ThepaRernsmixaroundsimilarcolorpaleResnicelyandmakeaffordablecurtains,pillowcases,andfurniturecovers.YoucanfindalocaltailorintownorinWatersidetodotheworkforyou,andhousevisitstotakemeasurementsandmakedeliveriesareallpartofgoodservice.

CarpenterslocatedaroundCityHallandouttowardsELWAcanbuildfurnituretoyourspecificaLons.Insistthattheywritedownallmeasurementsandcreateadiagramforyouofwhattheyplanto

build.Beasspecificaspossiblewiththem(e.g.“donotaddanythingtothisdesign,evenifyouthinkitwilllooknice”),andyourmarginoferrorwillbelow.

Newkitchenitemslikeblenders,bakingtraysandwineglassescanbefoundinthe supermarkets,oratKitchenwareorTheAfricanTradingCompanyonBroadStreet.AskfordiscountsatthelaRer.

SecondhandhouseholditemsarealwayspoppingupforsaleontheExpatList.

TherearesometalentedgardenerswhogrowbeauLfulpoRedhouseplantsthatmakeniceaddiLonstoanyroomorhome.You’llseethemalongthesideofTubmanBoulevard.Justbesuretosupervisetheloadingofyournewpurchasesinyourtrunkanddon’tturnyourback!

ExpatBackup:Living(well)inMonrovia20

GeNngaroundMonrovia

It’snice,butbynomeansessenLal,tohaveyourowntransportinMonrovia.Evenifyou’reluckyenoughtohaveadriverandacompanycar,thesystembreaksdownsomeLmes.Here’swhattodoaboutit.

GeNngtoandfromtheairportIfyou’reanewarrivalandcomingtoworkforalargercompany,NGOor

internaLonalorganizaLon,seeifadrivercancomepickyouupfromtheairport.EvenifyourorganizaLondoesn’thaveitsowndriverorvehicle,seeifacolleaguewouldn’tmindpickingyouuporsendingataxidrivertheyknow.IrecommendthesecondopLon,asit’sanhour‐plusdrivetotheairport.Familiarfacesorevenasignwithyournameonitwillgoalongwayinanewplace.

Ifyou’reunaffiliated,fearnot.ThereisahordeofeagertaxiswaiLngtocarryyouandyourluggagebacktoMonroviaforaround$30attheLmeofwriLng.Pleasebecarefulofwhohandlesyourluggageandtrynottoletthemoverwhelmyou.Thedriversandairporttoutscanbecomeveryaggressiveandnoonewilldomuchofanythingaboutit.

TaxisTherearetwotypesoftaxisinMonrovia:privateandshared.Privatetaxisoperatebyphonecalls.Youcallyourdriver,askhimtopickyouup,describeyourlocaLon,andwait,someLmesforaverylongLme.Ifyourdriverisn’tavailable,heshouldbeabletocoordinatewithoneofhistrustedcolleagueswhois.NegoLatethepriceaheadofLme,butonceyoudeveloparelaLonshipwithadriveryoulike,discussingpaymentbecomesmorerelaxed.It’sagoodideatohaveahandfulofnumbersincaseyourdriverofchoicedecidesnottoanswerhisphone.

AwordaboutgivingdirecZons:BecauseLiberianEnglishcanbesodifferentfrominternaLonalorStandardEnglish,ifyourdriverdoesn’tunderstandwherehe’ssupposedtocollectyou,findthenearestnormal‐lookingLiberianandaskthemiftheydon’tmindexplainingyourlocaLononthephone.Peoplearekindand

ExpatBackup:Living(well)inMonrovia21

GeNngaroundMonrovia

generoushere,andhappytohelpyouout.

Sharedtaxisoperatelikethesmallminibusesthatareslowlyreplacingthemanddemandtenacityandawillingnesstotoleratediscomfortinexchangefortheservicetheyprovide.Tocatchone,waitatkeytaxisstopswhereyouwillseemanypeopleclusteredalongthesideoftheroad.Simplehandgesturesonyourpart,performedinthesamemannerassomeonewhoishitchhiking,willshowpotenLaldriverswhichpartoftownyou’dliketogotoandletthemdecidewhetherornottostop.Iftheydo,it’syourjobtomakesureyougetintothecarbeforethebackupofpeoplepushingbehindyou.CompeLLon,asyouwillexperience,isfiercebutgood‐hearted.Itmighttakeacoupleoftriesbeforeyoumakeit.Don’tbediscouraged!It’slikethisforeveryone.Youwillfindyourselfwedgedinalongsidethreeothersinthebackseat,butyoucanoHenclaimanemptyfrontseatandpaya bitextratonothavetoshare.

BusAfleetofnewcitybusesdonatedbytheGovernmentofIndiaisimprovingtransportopLonsdramaLcally.Theirroutesaremarkedonthefrontandbackofeachbus,andtheyeventravelbetweenciLes.Faresarecheaperthansharedtaxis.

MotorbiketaxisBecauseofincreasingtrafficcongesLoninMonrovia,especiallyaroundrushhour,motorbiketaxisarethefastestwaytogetaround.Youwon’thaveahelmet,yourdrivermightgetstoppedbythepolice(ifhedoes,justpayhimquicklyandfindanotherone),andthey’redangerousenoughthatmanyofmyfriendshavesurfacescarsfromminoraccidents.Alot

ofthedriversarerecklesstothepointofendangerment,sopickonethatlookscalmandrelaxed,andbeclearthatyouexpecthimtodrivesafelyandslowly.Youcanputmorethanonepersononthebackofabike,butwhyriskit?NegoLateyourfareaheadofLme,andholdonLght.

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Makingfriends

You’reinanewcountry.Welcome!OnbehalfofMonrovia,wehopeyou’regoingtolikeithere.

“Howlongareyouherefor?”Monrovia’sexpatriatecommunityisesLmatedtobeataround15,000people.Inacountryofthreemillion,thisishuge.It’smostlyUNMIL,ofcourse,butevenso,therearealotofotherexpatriateshereandthere’snowayyou’regoingtomeetallofthem.

Thatsaid,thefirstquesLonwhenyoumeetmanyofus—orthethird,ifwe’rebeingpolite—isgoingtobe,“Howlongareyouherefor?”Begracious,tellthetruth,andyes,youarebeingevaluatedonyourreply.Here’swhy:

Fordecades,Monroviawasinwhataidworkerscall“emergencyprogramming.”Therewereshort‐termcontractsofweeksormonths,notyears,andmostpeopledidn’tstaylong.Thosethatdidwereheldinhushedawe,storiesofexpatrescuesandbrusheswithchildsoldierswhisperedintheirwake,andnotafewpeoplesuspectthattheyhavegonecrazy.

Afewyearsback,developmentprogrammingstartedthetransiLonfromemergencyhumanitarianaidtolong‐termdevelopmentwork.OrganizaLonswithwordslike“rescue”and“refugee”intheir

nameswerethenorm.Thenrefugeeprogramsstartedpackingup,andthosewhostayedagreedthattherewasenoughstabilitytostartmakingmulL‐yearplans.Inanemergency,yourespond.Indevelopmentwork,youplan.Thetworequiredifferentskillssets,adifferentattude—andusually,differentpeople.

MonroviaisinthemiddleofatransiLonbetweenthetwo.Whatdoesthismeanforyou?Well,thisusedtobeatownofshort‐termers,wheretherevelersatoneweekendpartymightnotbeincountryforthenext.Assomeonewhoarrivedatthebeginningofinternseasonandhasgonethroughatleastthreeseparatewavesoffriends,letmetellyou:ithurts.

ThemostcommonpartyinMonroviaissLllthegoodbyeparty.Saygoodbyetoenoughpeopleandyouwanttoknow,beforeyouinvest,ifthepersonyou’reabouttoreallytakealikingtoisgoingtoleaveinsixweeksornot.YouneedtoknowbecausealthoughitmightnotmaRerforthenextliRlebatchofLme,youneedtobepreparedaheadofLmeforthemomentthattheygo.

So,newcomers,pleasedon’tbeoffendedwhenIaskyou,aHerhearingaboutyourjobandwhereyoumovedfrom,howlongyou’regoingtostay.Youcouldsay“sixweeks”or“sixyears,”andI’llbeyour

friendanyway.IjustwanttoknowhowlongIcanenjoyyou.

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Makingfriends

LiberianEnglishisnotStandardEnglish.If,likeme,you’dneverlivedinacountrythatspeaksapidginversionofEnglishbefore,youmightthinkthatyou’llpickupLiberianEnglishthesamewayyoustartspeakingIrishaHerafewbeersinthepub.Thinkagain.

LiberianEnglishisnotStandardEnglish.I’mnotgoingtogettoodeeplyintoithere,butIwanttoshareafewthoughtsandobservaLonsaboutwhatthismeansatworkandindailylife.

LiberianEnglishhasdifferentvariants,someeasiertounderstandthanothers.Donotassumethatanyoneunderstandswhatyou’resayinginStandardEnglish.InalotofmyworkwithLiberianteams,atranslatorwaswilingtolistentomepaLentlybeforeturningtothegroupwith,“Thewomansay—“anditwasindispensable.

MyfirstmonthsinLiberia,IhiredalanguagetutorandworkedfromLiberianEnglishtextbooks,studyingforseveralhoursaweek.AndthenIstopped.RatherthanbringingmeclosertothepeopleIwastryingtoconnectwith,Ifeltlikespeakingcolloquialwasdoingthemadisservice.

IbelievethattheopportunityforpeopleIworkwithtolearnandpracLceStandard

EnglishhelpsthemaccessawiderworldofinformaLonandopportuniLes.TheInternetisinStandardEnglish.Soarejobinterviews.Ialsofeltthat,whenIheardexpatstryingtospeaktheirowngarbledversionsofcolloquial,itsoundedaliRlebitoff.SpeakingslowlyandsimplyinStandardEnglishcould’vebeenclearerandmaybealiRlemorehelpful.

Iknowalotofpeoplearegoingtodisagreewithmeonthis.That’sokay.I’veworkedwithLiberiansinconstrucLon,tourism,sewing,surfing,teaching,cooking,compuLngandediLng.Ineverycircumstance,itseemedlikeadisservice

tospeakcolloquialLiberianEnglishtothem.IfIwasinteracLngwithpalmwinetappersdeepintheforest,Imighthavemadeadifferentdecision.ButLiberianswhowanttogrowtheirskillsandinteractprofessionallywithnon‐LiberiansneedStandardEnglish,andIfiguredwemayaswellpracLceit.

Definitely,though,inmanylinesofwork,you’regoingtoneedtolearncolloquial.Therearecopiesof“AnIntroducLontoLiberianEnglish,”publishedbythePeaceCorps,floaLngaroundMonroviathatyoucanfindandphotocopy.

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Makingfriends

“Don’tmenZonthewar.”InmyfavoriteFawltyTowerssketch,theBriLshhotelownerplayedbyJohnCleeseisinformedbyhiswifethatthereareGermanscomingtostayfortheweekend.“Whateveryoudo,”shewarnshim,“don’tmenLonthewar.”Ofcourse,hecan’thelpit.Myfavoriteiswhenhe’stakingtheirdinnerorderandturnsaside,“Listen,don'tmenLonthewar!ImenLoneditonce,butIthinkIgotawaywithitallright.[returnstotheGermans]So!It'sallforgoRennow,andlet'shearnomoreaboutit.So,that'stwoeggmayonnaise,aprawnGoebbels,a

HermannGoering,andfourColditzsalads.”We’veallbeenthere,onewayoranother.

MostLiberiansyoucomeintocontactwithhavehorriblememoriesoftraumaandloss.Theydon’thaveaccesstothekindofmentalhealthserviceswewouldintheeventofpersonaltrauma,andthey’realldealingwithitintheirown,personalways.PleaserespecttheirhealingandrefrainfromindulgingyourcuriositybyquesLoningnewacquaintances,“So,whatwasitlikewhenyourfamilywaskilledinfrontofyou?”

Ifpeoplewanttoshare,theywill—spontaneously,andoHenatwhatseemslikerandomLming.It’syourjob,whenthathappens,toholdspaceforthem—tolisten,letthemspeak,andthendoyourbesttoempathizeandsupport.It’snoteasy,butwithtactandcompassion,youcanhelptheirhealingprocesswithyourgraceandpresence.

Besurethatyouhavesomeonetotalktoabouttheseexperiencestoo,okay?

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Stayingconnected

Onceyouland,it’simportanttogetandstayconnectedtoyourpeople,incountryandout.Monrovia’smobilephonenetworksareaffordable,mostlyreliableandsteadilyimproving.I’lloutlinethecurrentopLonsforconnecLvity.

MobileandsmartphonesIfyouarrivewithanunlockedphone,allyou’llneedtodoisbuyacheapSIMcardattheairport—oratalargenumberofkiosksaroundtown—forafewdollars.Therearetwomajormobilephonecompanies—theIsraeli‐ownedCellcomandSouthAfricanMTN’sLonestar.Eachhave$0.05/minutecallstotheUSandsimilardealstoothercountries.Lockedphonescanbeeasily‐‐andcheaply‐‐unlockedaroundtown.YoursmartphoneswillworkinLiberia,althoughwebbrowsingisslowanddataservicelimited.Keepthemclose,astheyliketowalk.

FreewifispotsSeveralrestaurants,includingSajjonTubmanBoulevardinSinkor,RoyalHotelon14thStreet,andtheCapeHotelinMambaPoint,offerfreewirelessInternetfortheircustomers.ThesearegoodplacestolunchandworkatwhenyourhomeorofficeInternetspontaneouslystopsworkingandyou’lloHenseemanyofyourfriendsdoingthesame.

LocaZon‐basedInternetYoucanorganizewirelessInternetinyoursharedapartment,houseorofficebycontacLnganyofthemajorInternetserviceproviders.YoupaybybandwidthandcannegoLateacontractdirectlywiththeiroffices.

MobileInternetBecauseIliketobemobile,IpreferusingUSBInternetconnecLons.Atthemoment,therearethreeopLonsthatworkinMonrovia,offeredbyLibTelCo,LonestarandCellCom.Checkwiththeirofficestodetermineratesandcoverageareasanddecidewhichoneworksbest.

FunstuffAsyoumayhavediscovered,Monroviahasafierceworkethic.Manuallaborerspushwheelbarrowsofwater‐filledjerrycansacrosstown,track‐suitedathleteschargeBensonStreet’shillatdawn,andmanyexpatriatesworksix‐dayweeks,frommorningunLlwellaHerdark.ImovedherefromNewYorkCity,aplacerenownedforitslackofhealthyworkboundaries,andfoundthepaceandofficeexpectaLonsinMonroviatobemuchthesame.

Setboundariesearlyaboutwhenyouwillandwon’tbeavailable,oryouwillburnoutandbenousetoanyone.I’llbewriLngaboutthismoreinup‐comingissuesofExpatBackup,sosubscribetotheemaillistandmakesureyoudon’tmissanything.

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Exploring

Oneofthebestthingsaboutbeinginanewplaceisthateverythingisnewandyou,onyourowniniLaLve,withyourownsenseofadventure,gettoexplore.Forthatreason,I’mnotgoingtobotherwithanyrecommendaLonsforbars,restaurantsornightclubs.IfMonroviahadathousandandoneopLons,I’dpointyouinmyfavoritedirecLons,butasyoumightsuspect,thatisnotthecase.

ThereareexcursionsthatI’drecommend,though,andherearetheonesImostenjoy.AquickwordaboutphotographyaroundLiberia,though.Peoplecanbecomeabitaggressivewhentheyseeyoutakingphotoswithoutasking.It’salwaysgoodtoask.If/whenpeopleaskyouformoneyforaphotographofthem,explaintothemthatthephotosareforyou,toshowyourfamilyLiberia.Ifyou’regoingtousethephotosinanypublicorcommercialway,besuretoletthemknowandnegoLatecompensaLon,asyouseefair.

WatersidemarketsMonroviahasthreemajormarketareas—Waterside,DualaandRedLight—andWatersideisbyfarthemostaccessibleanduseful,intermsofthingstobuy.TakeaLiberianorsomeonewhoknowstheareawell,asthemarketsvergeintoWestPointterritoryandcanbeabitrougharoundtheedges.Besidesthestunning

yardsofcolorfullapacloth,therearecoveredmarketareasthatsellfreshvegetablesandfruit,drylenLlsandbeans,andplentyofsnails,fish,lobster,prawnsandcrab.Findyourwaytothebuildingwheretheysellpots,spicesandherbs,andmortarandpestles,andgetyourselflocalkitchenimplementsforafracLonoftheRandallStreetprices.RumorspaintWestPointasadenof

escapedcriminals,butwhenI’vegoneshoppingthere—alert,aware,low‐profile(seetheSafetysecLon)—I’veneverhadanytrouble.

TheBathandLeisureCenterNomaRertherumorsswirlingaroundexactlywhatkindofpleasureitsAsianladiesoffer,nowherecanyougetabeRerfoot,headorbodymassagethantheBath

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Exploring

andLeisureCenteroff14thStreet.They’reopenearlyandlate,everyday,andtheirloungearealetsyouandyourfriendsleanbackinmassivearmchairswhileyoudrinkbeerandreceiveside‐by‐side45‐minutefootmassageswhilewatchingChinesetelevision.It’sawonderfulwaytorelax,andIvouchfortheawesomenessoftheirhour‐longbodymassagesaswell,althoughyoumightbetoorelaxedtodriveyourselfhomeaHerwards.

MaJuahandaphotoshootThere’samassivesecondhandclothingmarketacrosstheVyTownbridgeonBushrodIslandcalledMaJuah.It’scheap,fullofgreatfinds,andagoodplacetobuyadiscardedpromgownorsimilarstrangecostumeandstageaphotoshootontheroofoftheDucorHoteloralongMonrovia’sbeaches.Iwasgoingtowrite“anywherealongMonrovia’sbeaches,”butsanitaLonpracLcesbeingwhattheyare,you’llwanttotreadcarefullyinthisregard.

RobertsportBestasanovernightorlongweekendtrip,Robertsporthasgreat—butchallenging—surfingwavesandagorgeousstretchofbeachthatyoucanwalkalongformiles.There’sacampsitewith$5/nightcampingfeesrunbythelocalcommunity(andmentoredbyRobertsportCommunityWorks,whichI

co‐lead),Nana’sLodge(whichbecomesmoreaffordablethemorepeopleyou’rewillingtopackintoyourtent),andahandfulofother,neweropLonsthatIcan’tvouchfor.Irecommendcampingwholeheartedly,bothforitsaffordabilityandthesheerbrillianceofthesetng,undertheancientcoRontreethatJ.J.RobertsandhisAmericanColonizaLonSocietyLedtheirshipto,backintheday.Wakingupunderthetree,lighLngacharcoalstovetomakebreakfast,thentakingabookandawalkupthebeachis

oneofthebestwaystospendamorninginLiberia.

RobertsportCommunityWorksrunswalksintothesurroundingrainforest,aseaturtlerescueprojectandamonthlybeachcleanup.Askthecampsitestaffifanyofthisinterestsyouandyou’dliketogetinvolved!

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CoolLiberiancra_s

Monroviadoesn’tyethaveacentralcraHmarket,sothebestplacetoseeawell‐curatedselecLonofthebestarLstsandarLsansisatthebiannualU.S.EmbassySummerorChristmasCraHFair,heldeveryMayandDecemberattheU.S.Embassyandopentothepublic.

Itwouldn’tbedifficulttorentawarehouse,getsupportfromtheMinistryofCommerce,andgiveallthesearLstsapermanentsalesspace.BringingthemtogethertopromoteLiberianartsand

handicraHswouldimprovetheirindividualsalesandhelpsupportcoRageindustriesthroughoutthecountry,butnoone’sdoneityet.(Hint,hint.)

UnLlthey(you?)do,here’swheretofindmyfavorites:

MamaLiberiaSewingCo‐opTheco‐op,basedinRobertsport,hand‐sewsbeachbags,yogamatbags,apronsandpatchworkduvetcoversoutofcolorfulWestAfricanlapa.Theproject

hashelpedtoliHthe60+womenitemploysoutofpovertyandwhat’smore,itsproductscomewitha2‐yearqualityguarantee.(Disclaimer:ThisisaprojectImentor.)

TheAfricanT‐ShirtCompanyTheLiberianfranchiseofTheAfricanT‐ShirtCompanyisnow100%Liberianownedandrun.YoucanpurchaseSurfLiberiamerchandise,t‐shirtswithcheekysloganslike‘FailedState’and‘Driveitlikeit’sUNMIL,’andintheprocessknowthatyou’resupporLnglocalsmallbusinessdevelopment.(Anotherdisclaimer:Thisis alsoaprojectImentor.Well,what’stheuseofwriLngmyownemagazineifIcan’tpromotemyowncoolstuff?)

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CoolLiberiancra_s

Alfreda’sAfricanDollsAlfredaisratherfamousinLiberiaforherhandmadedolls.Makeanappointmenttovisithershopatalfredaoscar@yahoo.comorbyphoneat+231‐656‐7696or+231‐693‐2296.

RecycledwatersachetbagsAverycoolsewingprojectmakinghandbags,wallets,laptopcasesandwhateverelseyoucanthinkofoutofrecycledwaterbags.Contact+231‐649‐0909orinfo@resurrecLonbags.com.

CrocodileskincobblerMorrisKannehmakeshandmadeleathersandalsoutofcowhide,snakeskinandcrocodile.That'sright.Hedesignshisown1970'seramen'sshoes,women'sknee‐lengthbootsandclassicsandals,andhecanreplicateshoestylesfromphotos.Givehimacalltoplaceanorderat+231‐77‐362‐2956.

AmazingGrace,jewelrymakerGrace‐‐andmyapologiesfornotknowingherlastname‐‐isindeedamazing.Sincetheendofthewar,she'sbeenrecyclingglassboRlesandmakingthemintobeads,whichshelovinglymakesintobrightandbulkynecklacesandbracelets.Orderthemdirectbyemailingheratamazinggracelib2009@yahoo.comorcalling+231‐77‐063‐061.

CountryclothmeetstheLiberianmarketThesescarves/stolesarehandwovenfromnaturalfibersinthetradiLonofupcountryLiberia.IlikedthejuxtaposiLonoffootballclubsandJesusatthisman'sstall.HisnameisBahMohamedandhehasashopoppositetheUSEmbassyinMambaPoint.He'salsoatfulbehgowu@yahoo.comor+231‐657‐1602.

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CoolLiberiancra_s

CoconutshelljewelryLiberianarLstJohnGartauhandcraHstheselovelyearringsandpendantsoutofcoconutshells.Maturecoconutshellsmakedarkerpieces,whileyoungercoconutsarelighter.Johncanbecontactedatjohngartau206@yahoo.comor+231‐649‐2853.

Handicra_stallsYou’llseesimpleshacksoutsidetheUSEmbassyandtheMambaPointHotel,andthey’repackedwithmasks,carvingsandallsortsofregionalsouvenirs.Ilikethehammocks,madefromlocalraffiathatgrowsintheforestsupcountry.

USEmbassyCra_FairsAsmenLonedearlier,atthemomentthebestplacetofindawell‐curatedselecLonofthebestLiberianhandicraHsisatthebiannualUSEmbassyCraHFairsthathappeneveryMayandDecember.WatchtheExpatListfortheirannouncements.

Stayinghealthy

KeepingyourmindandbodyrelaxedandhealthyisaprerequisiteforenjoyingyourLmeinMonrovia.MorethananyplaceI’veeverbeen,Monrovia’slackofurbansanitaLon,itshyper‐endemicmalaria,andrampanttyphoidandgiardiameanthatunlessyoulookaHeryourself,you’regoingtogetreally,scarilysick.Don’tletyourparentsreadthissecLon.

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Healthinsurance

We’realladultshere,andI’dliketoassumethatyou’recarryingyourhealthinsurancecardinyourwalletrightnow.Youare,aren’tyou?Youhaveone,don’tyou?

Ifyoudon’t,youneedtogetone.Now.Getonline,doasearchfor“internaLonalhealthinsurance”andstartdoingyourresearch.IhaveBUPA,whichisconsistentlytopoftherankingsforgoodcare—andit’sanot‐for‐profit,whichmeanstheydon’ttrytowheedlemeoutofmyreimbursements.Butgo,dotheresearch,makeyourownchoice.

Idon’twanttoscareyou,butnothavinggoodhealthinsuranceinacountrywithasub‐parhealthsystemisnotokay.Weneedyouhealthy,happyandlookedaHertodoyourwork!

PrevenZngtropicaldiseasesLivinginMonroviawillrequireyoutoupyourgamewhenitcomestobasichygieneanddiseaseprevenLon.Twobasics:carryhandsaniLzerandstoptouchingyourface.Thefirstoneiseasy.Thesecondoneislaughablymoredifficult.Bothwillreduceyourexposuretocommunicablediseases.

Thisguidanceisinnowaymeanttoreplacetheadviceofatrustedphysician.Thetropicalandcommunicablediseases

discussedhereareverydangerousdiseasesandIamnotatallresponsible

foranythingtodowithhowyoufollow—ordon’tfollow—thisadvice.

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Malaria

LotsofexpatsbecomeflippantandlazywhenitcomestoprotecLngthemselvesfrommalaria,andlotsofexpatsdiebecauseofit.Malariaisthenumberonekillerofeveryone,worldwide,andit’shyper‐endemicinLiberia,meaningthatitexistseverywhereandiseasytocatch.Here’swhatyoushouldknowaboutprotecLngyourself.

We’llstartwiththecommonsenseapproach.Sleepunderamosquitonet,

evenifyouhaveclosedwindowsandaircondiLoning.Wearlongtrousers,shoesandsocks,or,ifyou’relikemeandexisthappiestindressesandflip‐flops,putonlong‐lasLnginsectrepellentintheaHernoon,wellbeforeitstartstogetdark.ThebestprevenLonistoavoidgetngbiReninthefirstplace.

Now,forthedrugs.Ifyou’relivinginorvisiLngLiberia,youneedtobeonmalaria prophylaxis.Letmesaythatagain.Living

inLiberiameansyoumusttakedrugstopreventmalaria.Idon’tcareifyou’velivedinAfricaallyourlife,thinkyou’resomehowluckyorimmune,orthatmosquitoesneverseemtobiteyou.Theanophelesspeciesthatcarriesmalariaislight,quick,andyoumightnotevenseethebite.

Don’tgetsickanddiebecauseyouthoughtyouweretoocoolformalariaprevenLon.I’velostfriends.Manyofushave.Weneedyou.Weloveyou.Stopbeingdumb.

Thatsaid,herearethecurrentopLons:

Malarone/malanilMalaroneistheZeusofmalariaprophylaxisand,accordingtooneofthebesttropicalmedicinedoctorsinAfrica,itisvirtuallyfail‐safeatprevenLngmalaria.Thedownsideisthatit’sexpensive,maytaxyourliver,andyouhavetotakeitonceaday,ideallyaroundthesameLme(andI’mnomalariaexpert,butyoumightnotwanttotakeitwithyournightlybeers).Therearenotalotoflong‐termstudiesabouttheeffectsofmalarone,butit’sbeenaroundforyearsandtherearen’tanyhorrorstorieseither.Ifyou’reconcernedaboutitseffects,though,geta liverenzymetestwhenyou’reinacountrywithgoodmedicalfaciliLes.Itake

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Malaria

malarone,aHertryingeverythingelse,andIplantodosounLlsomethingbeRercomesalong.

Luckyforus,Malaronenowcomesinagenericandlesscostlyform,Malanil,althoughattheLmeofwriLngthis,youcan’tseemtofindeitherinMonrovianpharmacies.StockupathomeorinaneighboringAfricancountry,andknowthatextraMalaroneisexpatgoldinMonroviaandcanbebarteredforallsortsoffavors…

Mefloquine,a.k.a.LariumMostgovernments,excepttheU.S.,prohibittheiremployeesfromtakingmefloquine,asithasnegaLvepsychtropicproperLesthatforsome,canmakeyoualiRlesadandforothers,canpromptyoutosuicide.Maybeyou’reoneoftheluckypeoplewhoareimmunetoitsside‐effects andcantakethecheap,available,weeklydrugforyearswithoutnoLcingahintofanxietyorthinkingtheworldsucks.Probably,though,youcan’t.Andisanassignmentinapost‐conflict,high‐stresscountrytheplaceyouwanttotestoutwhetherornotmefloquinemakesyoudepressed?Idon’tthinkso.Ifyouknow

youcantakeitwithouttrouble,fineandgood.Ifyou’renotsure—andsideeffectscanvary,overoneLmeperiodtothenext—thenI’dsuggestpickinganotherprophylaxis.

Somesigns,ifyouareonmefloquine,thatyoumightbesufferingfromsideeffects,includeparanoia,depression,socialwithdrawalandfeelinglikenothinginlifeisanygood,atall.I’vebeenthere,andit’snotalwayseasyforyoutoself‐idenLfy.Haveabuddy,someoneyouseeoHen,keepaneyeonyouandtellyouiftheythinkyou’reacLngsadorstrange.ThatoneliRleprecauLoncansaveyoumonthsofdrearinessanddismay.Itcan—anddoes—sneakuponyou,andyou’renotthebestjudgeofwhetherornotyou’redepressed.Thatsaid,you’llprobablynoLcewithinaweekortwoyoursideeffectsliHingifyouswitchtoanotherdrug.

Youcangetmalariawhiletakingmefloquine.It’sunlikely,butifyoudo,checkwithyourdoctoraboutwhetheryoushouldkeeptakingthemefloquineduringyourtreatment.

DoxycyclineDoxycyclineischeapandwidelyaccessible,andtheusualdosefortakingittopreventmalariais100mgaday,asclosetothesameLmeeverydayasyou

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Malaria

canpossiblymanage.Itsefficacyisn’taffectedbywhetheryoutakeitwithfoodormilkornot,butifitbothersyourstomach,eatsomethingbeforehand.

DoxycanmakeyouextremelysunsensiLve,soyou’llwanttolatherontheSPF50+,evenifyoudon’tnormallyburn.(Igotsunburnedonmyeyelids,okay?)Thiseffectisusuallytemporary,andmanypeoplefindthattheircutsandskinblemisheshealfasterwhenthey’reondoxy,whichcanbeanaddedplus.Othersdon’tlikethehealtheffectsoftakinganLbioLcsoverthelong‐term,andIdidnoLcethatmygastro‐intesLnalhealthwasn’twhatitusuallyis,soIswitchedtoMalanil.

Youcangetmalariawhiletakingdoxycycline.Checkwithyourdoctoraboutwhethertokeeptakingyourdailydosethroughouttreatment.

RapidmalariatestsYoumightalsowanttobringsomerapidmalariatests,asthelabsinMonroviaarenotoriousathandingoutfalseposiLves.IwastoldIhadmalariafourLmesoverasix‐monthperiodunLlIwenttomydoctorinKenya,andhefoundnomalariaanLbodieswhatsoever.Formyfriendsthelaypeople,thatmeansIdefinitelydidn’thavemalaria,forsure,overthelastsixorsevenmonths,andthelabsdidn’tknow

whattheyweredoing.Thatsaid,it’smuchbeRertotreatafalseposiLvethannottotreatwhatcouldactuallybemalaria—atleastunLlwehavemorecapablelabsthatcantelluswhat’sactuallygoingon.

Know,though,thatrapidmalariateststakelongertorecognizemalariathantheirmicroscope‐and‐slidecounterparts,whichmeansyou’llbesickerbytheLmeyoufigureyou’reinfected.LabsaresLllourbestbetatdiagnoses,andtheonesinLiberianeedtoimprove.

Twoimportantpointsaboutmalariatreatment:1.ThesignofasuspectclinicisonethattriestoputyouonadriporgiveyouaninjecLonwhenyou’resLllcapableofspeakingandstandingup.Unlessyourlife isatstakeandyou’reincapableofswallowing,youshouldnotbemessingwithneedlesinanAfricanclinic—oratall,actually,asitmulLpliestheriskofcomplicaLons.Thereisacultofinjectablesinthedevelopingworld,andmanypeoplewhodon’tknowbeRerthinkthatifithasaneedleonit,itmustbemoreeffecLve.YouknowbeRer.Justsayno,andaskforthepillsinstead.

2.Malariaisatricky,adaptableparasiteandtheglobalhealthandpharmaceuLcal communiLesaretryingeverytrickintheir

arsenaltocomeupwithnewandbeRerdrugstopreventandtreatit.Currently,thebestwe’vegotarederivaLvesfromtheChineseherbartesenate.ThisistheonlyLmeI’mgoingtoeverdothis,becauseIhaveanexpensivepublichealthdegreeandit’swarranted:ONLYTAKEARTESENATEASPARTOFACOMBINEDTREATMENTWITHANOTHERDRUG.Itdoesn’treallymaRerwhattheotherdrugis,onlydon’tever,evertakeartesenateonitsown,asyouwillbecontribuLngtothedrugresistanceofanevilparasiteandweakeningourbestandcheapestdefense.Insimpleterms,youaremakingtheglobalmalariaproblemworse.Iknowyoudon’twanttodothis,sotakecombinedtreatment.

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Typhoidandgiardia

TherearealotofpeoplediagnosedwithtyphoidinLiberia,andittakesweeksandmonthstorecoverfromandissupremelyexhausLng.TheinjecLonthatpreventsitisn’t100%effecLve,sobesuretogetatyphoidtestalongsideyourmalariatestatareputableclinic.TheWidaltest,usedfortyphoid,wasinventedforNapoleon’stroops,togiveyouanideaofhowoldourbesttoolis.Basically,ifyou’renotsymptomaLcandfeelfine,butaretoldyouhavetyphoid,youmightwanttogetasecondopinion.

Trytofindagooddoctor,butreachoutbyphonetoyourphysicianbackathomeifyouneedto,orcallatropicalmedicinespecialistwhoyouseeduringyourannual check‐ups.Somehealthinsurancecompanies,likeBUPA,havea24‐hourhotlineofdoctorsyoucandouble‐checkthingswith.

GiardiaisoneofthemostcommonintesLnalpopulaLonsyoucanhaveandit'severywhere,parLcularlyinareaswherethereispoorsanitaLon.Giardiacanliveforweeksandevenmonthsinopenpitlatrinesoranywherethere'sshitontheground.Allittakesisforaflytolandonthatshitandthenonyourfood,andyou'reinfected.Ofcourse,thecommontransmissionrouteofpoorly‐washedhandsisalsoamajorculprit.

GiaridiabacterialiveinthefirstmeterofyourintesLnaltract,whichiswhereyouabsorbmostofyouressenLalnutrients.Oneofthesymptomsofchronicgiardiaisbeingreally,reallyLred.

Thebacteriaareeasytofindinstooltestsifyou'reintheacLve,just‐infectedstage,butoncegiardiagoeschronicaHeraweekorso,onlytheoldanddeadbacteriaareexcreted.AHerpassingthroughthefulllengthoftheintesLnes,there'snotmuchleHforatesttofind,sowhileacLvegiardiamaybeeasilypickedupinalabtest,chronicgiardiaoHenisn’t.

Thesedays,giardiaisresistanttoflagyl,somytropicalmedicinespecialistrecommendsadifferenttreatment:fortwodays,at6pm,taketwo400mgtabletsofZentel(800mgtotal).Then,beforeyougotosleep,takefour500mgtabletsofFasigyn(2gtotal).Dothisagainthenextnight,andyou'reallclear‐‐unLlyougetre‐infected.Onething:duringtreatmentyouabsolutelymustnotdrinkalcohol.

IknowallofthiscanbeinLmidaLngandabitscary.Thetake‐awaymessage:makesureyouhavethebesthealthinsuranceyoucanget,thatyou’retakingmalariaprophylaxis,andthatyouhaveagoodplanforwhichlabsanddoctorstovisitifyougetsick.

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EaZngwell

I’mabigfanofMichaelPollan’sFoodRuleswhenitcomestomakingdecisionsaboutbuyingandeaLnglocallyproducedfoodgrownbyecologicallysustainablefarms.BuyinglocalsupportsLiberianandregionalagriculture,supportslocalfarmers,andreducestheamountofpetroleumenergyneededtotransportyourfood.

What’sbeRerforyouandtheworld,hand‐groundlocalpeanutbuRermadewithLiberianpeanuts,orthatplasLcjarofJiffythatwasbroughtbycontainershipfromAmerica?Don’ttakethistoofar,butwhenyoucan,buyandeatlocal.It’sbeRerforyouandbeRerforourglobalcommunity.

Thebestfruits,vegetables,fishandseafoodcanbefoundduringdaylighthours,MondaytoSaturday,onBensonStreetinfrontofMonoprixsupermarket.Marketladieslinetheroadintheshade,andIsuggestmakingfriendswithoneofthem,getnghermobilenumberandseeingifshe’llmakehomedeliveriesforlarge,dinner‐partysizedorders.FishandseafoodcanbefoundontheBensonStreetcornertoo,althoughthere’salsoanearly‐morningandearly‐eveningfishmarketonTubmanBoulevard,intheeponymousFishMarketneighborhood.

I’vebeencookingwithAfricaningredientsfor20years,andlovethechallengeofadapLngmyfavoriteinternaLonalrecipes towhatIhaveavailable.HereareafeweasyfavoritesthatcanexpandyourvegetablerepertoireandkeepyoueaLnghealthy!

• Sweetpotatogreens,rinsed,choppedandsautéedwithsomeoliveoilandchoppedgarlicinahotpan.Addasqueezeoflime.Oneofmyfavorites!

• Slightlyunripemangoes,slicedintosquaresandservedwithlimejuice,saltandblackpepper.It’sunusual,buthighlyaddicLve.

• Choppedpineapplewithgratedgingerandfreshlimesqueezedontop.FromsimpletosophisLcatedinlessthantwominutes...

ThenextfreeissueoftheExpatBackupemagazinewillexplorehowtocookeasyanddeliciousmealswithlocalWestAfricanvegetableslikepumpkin,okra,eggplantandgreens,andIhopeyou’llsignuptoreceiveit!

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GeNngexercise

Withthegruelingworkweeksthatmostexpatsputin,it’snotsurprisingthatexerciseisontheboRomofthelistofwaystospendourfreeLme.I’mgoingtoexplorehowtoscheduleLmeforfitnessthat’sfuninfutureissues,butfornowherearesomelocalpointers:

• Therearetennisandsquashcourts,compoundswimmingpools,andgymsaroundMonroviathatyoucanuseandjoin.

• There’saboxinggymonBroadStreetthatoffershigh‐energy,one‐on‐onetraining.

• AdedicatedyogateacherofferspoweryogaclassesatPA’sonOldRoadonTuesdaysandThursdays,starLngat7pm.

• Atae‐kwon‐doblackbeltteachesclassesattheSKDstadium.

• Duringdaylighthours,it’sprobablyrelaLvelysafetojoginyourneighborhoodandwalkonthebeach.Pleasedon’tgoaloneanddon’twearyouriPodstrappedtoyourarm…

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Dealingwithcultureshock

Whenyou’reunhappyandstressedout,yourimmunesystemtakesadiveanditbecomeseasiertogetsick—andtostaythatway.Makesureyouhavethesupportandresourcesyouneedtokeepyourselffeelingsafe,surroundedbycommunity,andwell‐adjusted.WhenyoustarttonoLceyourselfbecomingirritableandunreasonable,it’sLmetotakeabreak.

FutureissuesoftheExpatBackupemagazinewillexplorethisinmoredepth,sobesurenottomissany!

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JointheExpatBackuptribe

Thankyouforreading!

Ifyouenjoyedandappreciatedthisemagazine,pleaseforwardittoyourfriendsortoanyoneyouthinkcouldbenefit.It’safreeresource,soshareitaround.

FutureissuesofExpatBackupwillexplorehowtosetupyouroverseaslifetomakethebiggestposiLveimpact,howtoavoidburnout,howtocookwithlocal—andstrange—WestAfricanvegetables,howtocarveoutLmeforyourselfwhenitseemslikethere’snoLmeorprivacy,andhowtoputyourgoodideasintolocally‐lead,sustainableacLon.

ExpatBackupisn’tforeveryone,butifyoulikedwhatIwrotehere,Ihopeyou’llconsidersigninguptoreceiveemailupdateswhenIpublishnewstuff.Inthefuture,you’llgetadvancecopiesoftheemagazine,exclusivecontent,andcoolfreestuff.

IpromiseI’llnevershareyourinformaLonforanyreason,ever,andIwon’tfloodyourInbox.

‐ElieLosleben,elie@expatbackup.com

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SpecialthankstoNathanielCalhoun,forhisbackup.