ExhibitionLarge-PrintGuide

The Cloththat Changedthe WorldIndia’s Painted and Printed Cottons

Contents

1 India: Cotton, Colour & Desire

2 Cotton and Colour

3 Creating for the World

4 Influence of Chintz

5 Consequences of Desire

Object Label

Wall or bed hanging (palampore)Made in coastal southeast India for the Western market Around 1720 –1740Cotton, painted mordants, resist, dyesAccession Information

934.4.13 Harry Wearne Collection, Gift of Mrs. Harry Wearne

India : Cotton,

Colour & Desire

Painting and

Printing Cottons

for Indian Courts

Object Label

Textile depicting scenes from the Indian epic the RamayanaMade in coastal southeast IndiaAround 1880Cotton, painted mordants, resists,and dyesAccession Information

971.361

India : Cotton,

Colour & Desire

Painting and

Printing Cottons

for Temples and

Countryside

Object Label

Woman’s skirt (gaghra), veil (odhani), and bodiceMade in Rajasthan, IndiaEarly to mid 1900sSkirt: cotton, block-printed mordants and resistVeil: cotton, tie-resist dyedBodice: cotton, appliquéAccession Information

2019.32.1; 2020.27.1; Courtesy of Jayshree Khimasia

Object Label

Mother- goddess hanging (mata ni pachedi)Chitara ChandrakantMade in Ahmedabad, 2018Cotton, painted mordants and dyesAccession Information

2019.60.4

India : Cotton,

Colour & Desire

Painting and

Printing Cottons

in India Today

Object Label

Sari with scenes from the epic poem the RamayanaM. KailashamMade in Hyderabad, 2018Cotton, painted mordants and dyesAccession Information

2019.57.1 This acquisition was made possible with the generous support of Patricia Sparrer.

Object Label

Sari with leaf patternPracheen (Khatri Ahmed Latif and Khatri Sarfraz)Made in Mumbai, 2018Silk, block-printed mordantsAccession Information

2019.60.1

Object Label

Prosthor (Stone)Ajit Kumar DasMade in Kolkata, 2014Cotton, painted mordants and dyesAccession Information

2019.35.1 This acquisition was made possible with the generous support of the Louise Hawley Stone Charitable Trust.

Object Label

Woman’s tunic (lkeidn) and shoes (badouche), Kalamkari line11.11/eleven elevenNew Delhi, 2019Silk, cotton, painted mordantsAccession Information

2020.27.2

Object Label

Menswear, Sindhu lineGarment design by Good Earth,New DelhiPrinting by workshop of Juned Ismail Khatri, Gujarat, 2019Cotton, block-printed mordants and resistAccession Information

2020.27.14, 16, 19, 21, 25

Object Label

Contemporary ajrakh masterworkDesigned and printed by Abduljabbar M. KhatriMade in Dhamadka, 2019Cotton, block-printed mordants and resistAccession Information

2019.42.1 This acquisition was made possible with the generous support of the ROM Textiles Research and Acquisitions Endowment Fund.

Cotton

and Colour

Painting Coloured Pattern

Object Label

Painting coloured pattern process setRenuka ReddyBengaluru, IndiaAccession Information

This acquisition was made possible with the generous support of Patricia Sparrer.

Object Label

Kalams, each with a bamboo shaft and yarn reservoirCoastal southeast India Accession Information

2019.55.1–4

Object Label

Buffalo milk canisterBengaluru, India Accession Information

Courtesy of Renuka Reddy

Cotton

and Colour

Printing Coloured Pattern

Object Label

Block-printing coloured pattern process setDhamadka, Gujarat, India

Object Label

Carved wooden printing blocksDhamadka, Gujarat, IndiaAccession Information

2019.68.2

Object Label

Ground seeds and flour for thickenersBagru, Rajasthan, IndiaAccession Information

Courtesy of Maiwa Handprints LTD.

Creating for

the World

Made in Indiafor Asia

Object Label

Man’s military shirt or tunic (su’a senakut)Made in coastal southeast India for the Thai market Late 1700sCotton, painted mordants and dyesAccession Information

983.155.1

Object Label

Man’s lower wrapped garment (phaa nung/ phaa lai khain thong)Made in coastal southeast India for the Thai marketAround 1780 –1820Cotton, painted mordants and resist, later addition of gold leaf in ThailandAccession Information

2016.42.1 This acquisition was made possible with the generous support of the Louise Hawley Stone Charitable Trust.

Object Label

Ceremonial textile with a “patchwork” of geometric shapesMade in coastal southeast India for Sumatran or Javanese markets1700sCotton, painted mordants and resistAccession Information

Collection of Banoo and Jeevak Parpia

Object Label

Ceremonial textile with battle scene from the Indian epic poem the RamayanaMade in coastal southeast India for Balinese or Sulawesi markets1700sCotton, painted mordants and dyesAccession Information

2016.42.2 This acquisition was made possible with the generous support of the Louise Hawley Stone Charitable Trust.

Object Label

Ceremonial body wrapper or banner with a large sunburst (matahari) designMade in western India for theSumatran market1700sCotton, painted mordants, block-printed dyesAccession Information

2015.28.1 This acquisition was made possible with the generous support of the Louise Hawley Stone Charitable Trust.

Object Label

Ceremonial cloth with dancing womenMade in western India for the Indonesian market1450 –1550Cotton, painted mordants, resist and dyesAccession Information

Textile Museum of Canada, Opekar/Webster Collection

T94.0825

Object Label

Ceremonial cloth (maa’) with geese encircling lotusMade in western India for the eastern Indonesian market1300s or early 1400sCotton, block-printed mordantsAccession Information

2016.43.2 This acquisition was made possible with the generous support of the Louise Hawley Stone Charitable Trust.

Object Label

Ceremonial cloth (maa’) used by the Toraja people, with pattern imitating Indian woven silks (patola)Made in western India for the eastern Indonesian market (Sulawesi)1700s –1800sCotton, block-printed mordants, painteddyes, with a stamp of the Dutch EastIndia Trading Company (VOC)Accession Information

Collection of Banoo and Jeevak Parpia

Object Label

Ceremonial cloth (maa’) used by the Toraja people, with a tripartite design of plantsMade in western India for the eastern Indonesian market (Sulawesi)1700s or 1800sCotton, painted and block-printed mordants and resistAccession Information

Collection of Banoo and Jeevak Parpia

Object Label

Textile length with “lace-patterned” silk designMade in coastal southeast India possibly for Europeans residing in IndonesiaEarly 1700sCotton, painted mordantsAccession Information

2008.81.1 This acquisition was made possible with the generous support of the Louise Hawley Stone Charitable Trust.

Creating for

the World

Made in Indiafor Egypt

Object Label

Textile fragment with bands of dotsCarbon -14 dated between 1443 –1618, probably 1400sCotton, block-printed resistAccession Information

978.76.172

All but 961.107.1 form part of the Abemayor collection given in memory of Dr. Veronika Gervers, Associate Curator, Textile Department (1968–1979) by Albert and Federico Friedberg, certified by the Canadian Cultural Property Export Review Board under the terms of the Cultural Property Export and Import Act.

Object Label

Textile fragment with large leaves and flowering trees1400s to early 1500sCotton, painted mordants and resistAccession Information

978.76.1104

Object Label

Textile fragment with birdsAround 1400sCotton, block-printed mordants and resistAccession Information

978.76.117

Object Label

Textile fragment with stepped squares, diamond shapes, and running vine borderCarbon -14 dated to 1400 –1450Cotton, block-printed resistAccession Information

978.76.304

Object Label

Textile fragment with red and blue bands of vines and Arabic inscriptionProbably 1500sCotton, painted mordants and resistAccession Information

978.76.140

Object Label

Textile fragment with flowering treesLate 1200s –1300sCotton, painted mordantsAccession Information

961.107.1

Creating for

the World

Made in India,used in Japan

Object Label

Album of textile fragments (kiretekagami 裂手鑑) containing Indian chintz, Indonesian batik, and European industrially printed cottonsTextiles from the 1600s –1700sAlbum assembled in the early 1900sAccession Information

Collection of Mr. and Mrs. Lee Kip Lee

Object Label

Fragment with lattice (ウンヤ手) pattern, originally used in Japan as a border for a scroll paintingMade in coastal southeast India probably for the Indonesian market1700sCotton, painted mordants and resistAccession Information

961.232.22.B

Object Label

Sarasa zufuInaba MichitatsuWoodblock-printed ink on paper1785Accession Information

ROM Library, RARE NK9503.2.J3 I533 1785

Object Label

Tea ceremony cloth (fukusa 帛紗) with a floral scroll design (笹蔓手)Made in coastal southeast India, likelyfor the European market, used in Japan1700 –1750Cotton, painted mordants and resist, gold leafAccession Information

2016.42.4 This acquisition was made possible with the generous support of the Louise Hawley Stone Charitable Trust.

Object Label

Pouches (shifuku 仕覆) made of Indian chintz for sencha tea ceremony implementsMade in coastal southeast India for various world markets, used in Japan1700s and 1800sCotton, painted mordants and resists,some with gold finishing (gold leaf)Accession Information

Collection of Mr. And Mrs. Lee Kip Lee

Creating for

the World

Made in India for ArmenianCommunities

Object Label

Cope with angels, cross, and dedicatory inscriptionMade in coastal southeast India for use in an Armenian churchStamped date of 1789Cotton, painted mordants, resist and dyes, lined with European and Indianprinted cottonsAccession Information

934.4.37 Harry Wearne Collection, Gift of Mrs. Harry Wearne

Object Label

Kerchief with scenes of Europeans and dedicatory inscriptionMade in coastal southeast India for the Armenian marketStamped date of 1737Cotton, block-printed mordants and resist, painted dyesAccession Information

934.4.65 Harry Wearne Collection, Gift of Mrs. Harry Wearne

Creating for

the World

Made in India for Iran

Object Label

Hanging with cypress trees, monkeys, birds, Islamic inscriptions, and Hindu figureMade in coastal southeast India for the Iranian market1850 –1900Cotton, block-printed and paintedmordants and resist, glazedAccession Information

934.4.75 Harry Wearne Collection, Gift of Mrs. Harry Wearne

Object Label

Jacket with blue and red floral designsOuter textile made in India for the Iranian marketAround 1900Cotton, block-printed mordants and resist, glazedLining made in Iran: cotton, block-printed mordantsAccession Information

973.336.35

Object Label

Mat or hanging with architectural niche (mihrab), cypress trees, floral swagsMade in coastal southeast India for the Iranian marketAround 1825 –1850Cotton, block-printed and painted mordants, resist and dyesAccession Information

934.4.80 Harry Wearne Collection, Gift of Mrs. Harry Wearne

Creating for

the World

Made in India for Sri Lanka

Object Label

Wrapper garment for lower body (somana tuppotiya) with rosettes and multiple bordersMade in coastal southeast India for the Sri Lankan market1800sCotton, painted mordants and resistAccession Information

Collection of Banoo and Jeevak Parpia

Object Label

Hanging with flowering treeMade in coastal southeast India for the Sri Lankan marketAround 1700sCotton, painted mordants and resistAccession Information

Collection of Banoo and Jeevak Parpia

Creating for

the World

Made in India for Europe

Object Label

Gentleman’s dressing gown (banyan) in a golden brown “fallen leaf ” colourMade in coastal southeast India for the Western market, tailored in Europe1765 –1775Cotton, painted mordants, resist and dyesAccession Information

2009.110.1 Gift of the Louise Hawley Stone Charitable Trust and the Textile Endowment Fund Committee

Object Label

Wall or bed hanging (palampore) with Japanese- inspired imageryMade in coastal southeast India forthe Western, probably Dutch, marketAround 1725 –1750Cotton, painted mordants, resist and dyesAccession Information

963.13

Object Label

Panel from a set of hangings with architectural designMade in coastal southeast India for the Western, possibly French, marketAround 1710 –1720Cotton, painted mordants and resistAccession Information

934.4.18A Harry Wearne Collection, Gift of Mrs. Harry Wearne

Object Label

Floral overdress in the “French style” lined with silk and adorned with silk trimMade in coastal southeast Indiafor the European market, dress likelyconstructed in FranceAround 1770Cotton, painted mordants, resist anddyes, glazed, silk lining, silk trimAccession Information

959.80 A–B Holt Renfrew Fund

Object Label

Woman’s overdress in the “English style”Made in coastal southeast India for the European market, dress likelyconstructed in BritainAround 1780Cotton, painted mordants and resistAccession Information

972.202.12

Object Label

Wall or bed hanging (palampore)Made in coastal southeast India for the Western, possibly Dutch, market1725 –1740Cotton, painted mordants and resistAccession Information

934.4.7 Harry Wearne Collection, Gift of Mrs. Harry Wearne

Object Label

Wall or bed hanging (palampore)Made in coastal southeast India for the Western, possibly Dutch, market1740 –1750Cotton, painted mordants resist and dyesAccession Information

934.4.11 Harry Wearne Collection, Gift of Mrs. Harry Wearne

Made in India for Western Mass Markets Object Label

Textile fragmentMade in India for the European, possibly Italian, market1775 –1825Cotton, block-printed mordantsAccession Information

977 X 39.4

Object Label

Lining for a woman’s straw hat in a “bizarre silk” patternMade in coastal southeast India for the Dutch market1750 –1780Cotton, painted mordants and resistAccession Information

934.4.53 Harry Wearne Collection, Gift of Mrs. Harry Wearne

Object Label

Gentleman’s informal robe (banyan) with prunus and pine treesTextile made in coastal southeast India,constructed in the NetherlandsEarly 1700sCotton, painted mordants and resistAccession Information

959.112

Object Label

Wall or bed hanging (palampore) with floral repeatsMade in coastal southeast India for the Western market1720 –1750Cotton, painted mordants and resistAccession Information

962.107.1

Object Label

Woman’s jacket (wentke) with flowers and phoenixesTextile made in coastal southeast India,constructed and trimmed in the Netherlands 1700sCotton, painted mordants and resistAccession Information

962.107.2

Object Label

Bag cut in historic “Gujarati style” pocket with pise jaal patternCotton, block-printed dyesAccession Information

2019.60.25

Object Label

Bag cut in historic “French style” pocket (poche) with mandir buta patternCotton, block-printed dyesAccession Information

Private Collection

Object Label

Bag cut in historic “Gujarati style” pocket with daffodil patternCotton, block-printed dyesAccession Information

2019.60.24

Object Label

Textile panelAround 1995Cotton, block-printed resist,indigo-dyed by Mahesh DosayaAccession Information

Courtesy of Maiwa Handprints LTD.

Object Label

Classic, four-piece, layered “Sarah Clothes” cotton ensemble in “Baroque” print collectionWinter 1982Blouse in voile cotton;Pleated skirt, scarf, and quilted vestin block-printed cottonAccession Information

Courtesy of the Andrée Pouliot Collection

Object Label

“Sarah Clothes” broom- twisted skirtsAccession Information

Courtesy of the Andrée Pouliot Collection

Influence

of Chintz

From Indian Chintzto African Prints

Object Label

Length of factory-printed cotton in the “fallen tree” design based on an Ashante proverbPrinted for Ghanaian marketAround 2005Cotton, roller-printed synthetic dyesAccession Information

2006.21.19 This acquisition was made possible by the generous support of the ROM Reproductions Acquisitions Fund.

Object Label

Length of factory-printed cotton in the (imitation patchwork) designPrinted by HW Wax, GhanaAround 2005Cotton, roller-printed synthetic dyesAccession Information

2006.21.13 This acquisition was made possible by the generous support of the ROM Reproductions Acquisitions Fund.

Object Label

Length of factory-printed cotton with stylized plants and wingsPrinted in the Netherlands for the Ghanaian market1978Cotton, roller-printed synthetic dyesAccession Information

979.179.1

Influence

of Chintz

From Indian Chintzto Javanese Batiks

Object Label

Man’s headcloth with abstracted wings of garuda, the divine protector bird of Hinduism and BuddhismCentral Java, IndonesiaCotton, hand-drawn (tulis) resistAccession Information

2011.73.54 Gift of the Louise Hawley Stone Charitable Trust

Object Label

Sarong with flowering vinesAttributed to the workshop of Carolina Josephina von Franquemont North coast of Java, Indonesia1870 –1880Cotton, hand-drawn (tulis) resist and dyes, gold leafAccession Information

2011.73.16 Gift of the Louise Hawley Stone Charitable Trust

Consequences

of Desire

Object Label

Kerchief with images of Lord Ganesh and Indian playing cardsFactory roller-printed in Britain for theIndian market with local fabrics added as a border in IndiaAbout 1880Cotton, roller-printed synthetic and possibly natural dyesAccession Information

2004.75.1

Object Label

Furnishing textile, Le lion amoureux or LédaDesigned by Jean-Baptiste Huet Roller-printed by the Oberkampf factory of Jouy, France1809Cotton, roller-printed dyesAccession Information

934.4.528 Harry Wearne Collection, Gift of Mrs. Harry Wearne

Object Label

Cotton picking sack, sized to hold 45 kilos (100 pounds) of cotton Louisiana, United StatesAround 1950Cotton, rubber nubsAccession Information

986.280.1 Gift of Mr. Gus Green