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2013 exceptional travel experiences 22013 exceptional travel experiences 1
exceptional WINTER experiences 2013SPONSORED BY ThE MaRRiOTT REwaRDS® PREMiER CREDiT CaRD FROM ChaSE
2013 exceptional travel experiences 42013 exceptional travel experiences 3
2013
contents
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eatDrinKDosHop
2013 exceptional travel experiences 4
* Purchase and balance transfer APR is 15.24% variable. Cash advances and overdraft advances APR is 19.24% variable. Penalty APR of 29.99% variable. Variable APRs change with the market based on the Prime Rate, which was 3.25% on
03/21/13. Annual fee: $0 introductory fee the first year. After that, $85. Minimum Interest Charge: None. Balance Transfer Fee: 3% of the amount of each transaction, but not less than $5. Note: This account may not be eligible for balance
transfers. Cash Advance Fee: 4% of the amount of each advance, but not less than $10. Foreign Transaction Fee: None. Credit cards are issued by Chase Bank USA, N.A. Subject to credit approval. To obtain additional information on the
current terms and information on any changes to these terms after the date above, please call 1-888-623-7829 or visit www. MarriottPremier.com. You must have a valid permanent home address within the 50 United States or the District
of Columbia. Restrictions and limitations apply. See www.MarriottPremier.com for pricing and rewards details. Marriott Rewards points needed for a standard reward free-night stay range from 7,500 points for Category 1 hotels
to 45,000 points for Category 9 hotels. Refer to MarriottRewards.com for all reward redemption values. © 2013 JPMorgan Chase & Co. All rights reserved.
NO FOREIGN TRANSACTION FEES*
FREE NIGHTS START AT 7,500 POINTS
50,000 MARRIOTT REWARDS® BONUS POINTS after you spend $1,000 in three months after account opening
Apply now for the Marriott Rewards Premier Credit Card from Chase and pay $0 introductory annual fee for the first year; thereafter $85.* MarriottPremier.com 1-888-623-STAY Offer Code 3TN
ABSORB THE CULTURE
NOT THE FOREIGN TRANSACTION FEES
JW Marriott® Khao Lak Resort & Spa, ThailandMarriott Rewards® Category 5
ExcEptional WintER ExpERiEncEs
This Winter, Your Own Kind of Wonderland
Determining how and where to spend your wintertime
months is a very personal question—just as personal
as, say, your style of skivvies or how you take your
coffee in the morning. For example, do you like going
somewhere warm, with a fancy umbrella drink in one
hand and soft Salvadorian sand sifting through your
fingers on the other? Or do you love the snow so much
that you’re already researching new après-ski hot
spots long before the mercury drops? Whether your
holiday travel means crossing the equator for some
heat or braving the shortest days of the year to see
the northern lights, we encourage you to stay true to
yourself and find the wintertime wonderland that suits
you best. Our AFAR.com members, local experts, and
travel ambassadors have shared a wealth of inspiration
to help you choose.
CO
VE
R: G
laci
erN
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(F
lickr
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OC
: Jak
e S
tang
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2013 exceptional travel experiences 6
a Bowl of soup for neruDa
eat “In the storm-tossed Chilean sea lives the
rosy conger, giant eel of snowy flesh,” the
poet Pablo Neruda wrote in Oda al Caldillo
de Congrio. “And in Chilean stewpots,
along the coast, was born the chowder,
pregnant and succulent, a boon to man.”
Neruda concludes his ode by saying that
one who eats eel soup may know the taste
of heaven.
Neruda (1904–1973) was a renowned
gourmand: He wrote tributes to lemons,
tomatoes, artichokes, and corn. But for
Neruda, it was caldillo de congrio that
captured the essence of his country. The
soup is made with fish broth, onions,
garlic, cream, tomatoes, potatoes, and the
most important ingredient: the congrio
rosado (or pink conger, a snaky fish with
speckled rosy skin and white flesh).
Neruda found the wedding of flavors from
land and sea divine.
Because Chile is a slender leg of land
that runs along the Pacific Ocean, most
communities have easy access to fresh
seafood. Neruda may well have bought
conger at the fish market in the city of
Valparaiso, where he owned a home
called La Sebastiana, now a museum.
Today, mornings at the market are
frenetic, as fishermen drag their boats
in on wheels and sell the fresh catch
right out of their vessels. When I visited,
Franco Cifuentes—the executive chef
at Vina Indomita, a winery in the nearby
Casablanca Valley—took me there to buy
conger. “I use the same flavors Neruda
mentioned in the poem,” said Cifuentes.
“The preparation may be different, but the
result is very similar.”
At the market, Cifuentes coached me
to look for an eel with clear eyes, a firm
body, and a bright pink hue behind the
gills. After inspecting several candidates,
we settled on one angler’s biggest catch
of the day. It was a congrio rosado,
the breed glorified in Neruda’s poem,
weighing close to 20 pounds.
Cifuentes treated the fish with the respect
it deserved, serving it in a caldillo de
congrio with a new twist. He added a
sprinkle of merkén, a seasoning used by
the indigenous Mapuche people. The
blend of smoked chili flakes, salt, cumin,
and coriander brought a spicy, smoky
dimension to the broth.
Neruda probably never heard of merkén;
most Chileans weren’t familiar with it
before it began appearing in specialty
food shops in the past decade or so.
But the poet’s love of food and country
suggests that he would have enjoyed
this extra kick to his caldillo dale congrio.
Maybe he would have revised his ode and
added a stanza for the spice. —chantal Martineau
WhERE to saMplE caldillo dE congRio
galindoIn addition to eel chowder, this
neighborhood café in Santiago serves
Chilean staples such as empanadas and
pastel de choclo.
Dardignac 098, Recoleta, Santiago,
56/2-777-0116, galindo.cl
oda pacíficoAs you enjoy your caldillo and one
of the signature pisco sours (try one
with merkén), take in the spectacular
views of the Valparaiso harbor from the
second story of a sleek wood-and-glass
restaurant.
Condor 35, Valparaiso,
56/32-223-8836, odapacifico.cl
Viña indómitaExecutive chef Franco Cifuentes puts
his spin on the traditional chowder at a
winery outside Valparaiso.
Km 64, Ruta 68, Valle de Casablanca,
56/32-215-3900, indomita.cl
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caldillo dE congRio (SERVES 4 to 6)
Adapted from the recipe of Franco Cifuentes,
executive chef at Vina Indómita.
ingredients1 pound fish head and bones (cracked)¼ cup white wine6 cups water1 tomato, coarsely chopped1 carrot, coarsely chopped1 onion, coarsely chopped2 tbsp fresh cilantro, finely chopped, plus 4 to 6 sprigs, whole20 to 30 medium shrimp, peeled3 tbsp olive oil1 cup flour ½ tsp sea salt¼ tsp pepper1½ pounds conger (skinned, cut into 4 to 6 fillets)3 medium potatoes, sliced ½ inch thick 2 cloves garlic, minced1 red pepper, julienned1 green pepper, julienned1 pinch merkén3 tbsp cream
Make it
1. In a heavy-duty pot over high heat, sear the
fish head and bones. 2. Add the wine to deglaze
the bottom of the pot. 3. Add the water and
bring to a boil. 4. Toss in the tomato, carrot,
onion, and half the chopped cilantro. 5. Reduce
heat and let simmer for at least 20 minutes, then
strain and set aside the broth, which may be
refrigerated for later use. 6. Lightly brush the
shrimp with olive oil, cook 2 to 3 minutes on a
heated grill, and set aside. 7. In a bowl, combine
the flour, salt, and pepper. Lightly dredge the
conger. 8. Heat half the remaining oil in a skillet
over high heat, and sear the fillets for a minute
or two on each side. Place in a lightly greased
baking dish. 9. In an oven preheated to 350°F,
cook the conger for 10 minutes or until it flakes
easily with a fork. 10. Remove from the oven
and set aside. 11. Bring the broth to a simmer in
a pot over medium heat and add the potatoes.
Cook for 10 minutes or until the potatoes are
fork tender. Remove them and set aside. 12. In
a saucepan, heat the rest of the oil and sauté
the garlic and peppers until soft. 13. Place one
fillet of conger and four shrimp in each bowl. 14.
Divvy up the vegetables, including the potatoes,
among the bowls and top with the rest of the
chopped cilantro and a tiny pinch of merkén.
15. Ladle the broth over the top and drizzle half
a tablespoon of cream onto each serving. 16.
Garnish with cilantro and a shrimp, and serve.
2013 exceptional travel experiences 82013 exceptional travel experiences 7
BOLiVia LiKE a LOCaLBy STEPHEN M. SMITHFor traditional Bolivian food, the residents around the San Miguel area of La Paz like El
Vagón del Sur. I started out with the tucumanas (empanadas with a spicy garlic sauce)
and surubi (an Amazon River fish), followed by the picante de pollo (chicken in a spicy
red sauce, served with potatoes and chuño). Outdoor seating is available when the
weather is warm, and most entrees go for around USD $10 each.
REad MoRE
a TaSTEFUL GESTURE, COLOMBiaBy ROB HODGESThe signature dish of Salento, Colombia, is trucha con patacones— trout with mashed,
fried plantains—and the most delicious version in town can be found at El Rincon de
Lucy. The cozy, family-run eatery serves huge, inexpensive set meals with the star
attractions accompanied by soup, rice, beans, cheese, eggs, arepas, fresh juice, and
desserts. The basic elements stay the same, but matron and chef Lucy routinely tweaks
the dishes, which keeps customers returning day after day.
REad MoRE
eat HiGHliGHts
2013 exceptional travel experiences 10
BEST NOODLES iN ViENTiaNEBy WANDERLUSTRESSThe broth is pork-based, rich but not oily.
you can choose cow piek (a thick rice
noodle) or pho (thin rice noodles) or mee
(yellow egg noodles), along with pork,
duck, or chicken. The thing that makes
it so delectable is the healthy topping of
fried shallots, which adds a sweet roasted
flavor. The soup is served with iced
chrysanthemum tea along with an array of
chilies and sauces that I never use because
the broth is really that good
just the way it is.
REad MoRE
SwEET iSTaNBUL TREaT By JULEE K. So why go to Istanbul in the late fall/early
winter? Well, airfares are lower than in
high season, you can pretty much get any
hotel room you want, there are no crowds
so no lines to stand in, and the price of
pretty much anything you might want
to buy as a souvenir is at rock bottom.
There’s also a sweet treat waiting for you
if you go at this time of year—freshly
roasted chestnuts!
REad MoRE
eat HiGHliGHts
BEaUTiFUL BRiTiSh BRUSChETTaBy DENISE REyNOLDS I was weary of finding great Italian food in London. Jamie Oliver’s Italian smacked me
with a breadstick and proved me a fool. His adorably rustic restaurant in Covent Garden
has just the right touch of hipness and all the right flavors and taste.
This “Beautiful Bruschetta For 2” packs a punch with peas, mint, bright asparagus,
smashed broad beans, and some unexpected smoky mozzarella and chili for an extra
kick in the pants. Mr. Oliver, I salute you.
REad MoRE
AC Santo Mauro, Autograph Collection®, Madrid, SpainMarriott Rewards Category 6
* Purchase and balance transfer APR is 15.24% variable. Cash advances and overdraft advances APR is 19.24% variable. Penalty APR of 29.99% variable. Variable APRs change with the market based on the Prime Rate, which was 3.25% on 03/21/13. Annual fee: $0 introductory fee the first year. After that, $85. Minimum Interest Charge: None. Balance Transfer Fee: 3% of the amount of each transaction, but not less than $5. Note: This account may not be eligible for balance transfers. Cash Advance Fee: 4% of the amount of each advance, but not less than $10. Foreign Transaction Fee: None. Credit cards are issued by Chase Bank USA, N.A. Subject to credit approval. To obtain additional information on the current terms and information on any changes to these terms after the date above, please call 1-888-623-7829 or visit www.MarriottPremier.com. You must have a valid permanent home address within the 50 United States or the District of Columbia. Restrictions and limitations apply. See www.MarriottPremier.com for pricing and rewards details. Marriott Rewards points needed for a standard reward free-night stay range from 7,500 points for Category 1 hotels to 45,000 points for Category 9 hotels. Refer to MarriottRewards.com for all reward redemption values. © 2013 JPMorgan Chase & Co. All rights reserved.
2 POINTS PER $1 SPENT AT RESTAURANTS, CAR RENTAL AGENCIES, AND ON AIRLINE TICKETS PURCHASED DIRECTLY WITH THE AIRLINE.
5 POINTS PER $1 SPENT AT MARRIOTT® LOCATIONS WORLDWIDE.
1 POINT PER $1 SPENT ON ALL OTHER PURCHASES.
Start with 50,000 Marriott Rewards® Bonus Points after you spend $1,000 in three months after account opening. Apply now for the Marriott Rewards Premier Credit Card from Chase and pay $0 introductory annual fee for the first year; thereafter $85.*MarriottPremier.com 1-888-623-STAY Offer Code 3TH
SATISFY YOUR CRAVING FOR A GETAWAY
2013 exceptional travel experiences 14
AF
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ugus
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“I recommend you take a midnight poop,”
said the vest-wearing 20-something
bartender. The advice caught me off
guard. After all, I was in Karlovy Vary,
a historic Czech spa destination
where, since the 14th century, princes,
potentates, artists, and ordinary people
have been coming to restore their health.
This town of about 60,000, known as
Carlsbad in German, overflows with
curative waters that trickle from a dozen
different public fountains.
Six seconds into my perplexed stare, the
bartender opened the drink menu and ran
his finger down the page until it landed
on the words “Midnight Pupp.” I was in a
place called Jan Becher’s Bar, located in
the basement of the Grandhotel Pupp.
Ah—it was the pronunciation of that last
word. A Midnight Pupp, a cocktail. It all
made sense now.
The distinctive Pupp ingredient is
Becherovka, a local liqueur that has long
been considered medicinal. When I lived in
Prague in the 1990s, I acquired a taste for
Becherovka. In 2003, the French company
Pernod Ricard bought Becherovka and
expanded its global distribution. I began
to see the spirit stocked in liquor stores
and bars at home in New York City and
quickly started keeping a bottle of it in my
freezer at all times.
Made up of around 20 herbs and spices,
Becherovka has a tingly and bitter
flavor profile that can be summed up as
“essence of forest.” The recipe has been
a secret since its first concoction in the
early 19th century, and supposedly only
a handful of people on the planet know
exactly what goes into it. During a recent
visit to Prague I decided to make
the 90-minute journey west to meet
one of those people, Vladimir Darebnik,
director of operations at Becherovka.
Every Wednesday, either Darebnik or
master blender Bohuslav Pich, another
person in on the secret, spends two to
three hours in a sealed room, weighing
and hand mixing all the herbs and spices
for a new batch.
Within minutes of meeting Darebnik in the
Jan Becher Museum (which housed the
original commercial Becherovka distillery
before a shiny new one was built in 2010),
I called out names of ingredients to see if
any would stick:
Ginger?
Darebnik laughed and shook his head
from side to side.
Clove?
He bit down on his lower lip and
looked away. Was I onto something?
Cinnamon?
“OK,” he said. “You got one, but that’s
all you’re going to get.”
I switched gears, asking about the alleged
health benefits of Becherovka. Darebnik,
though, was equally uncomfortable
with this line of questioning. “Because
Becherovka was created by a pharmacist
in a spa town, it has an obvious
connection
to medicine,” he said. “But that’s not
something we want to promote.”
The year of creation was 1807. Local
pharmacist Josef Becher and physician
Christian Frobrig, who accompanied
Count Maximilian von Plettenberg on a
visit to Karlovy Vary, discovered they
shared a passion for mixing herbs,
aromatic oils, and alcohol (really, who
doesn’t?). Legend has it that after
experimentation in Becher’s lab, Frobrig
left Becher with a parting gift: the recipe.
Two years later, Becher was selling
English Bitter, later renamed Becherovka,
in his pharmacy.
Almost any Czech (other than Darebnik)
will tell you ways that Becherovka is
somehow good for you: It eases colds;
it loosens arthritic joints; it relieves
asthma. And Roman, my former ESL
student in Prague, once told me it works
as a laxative. Which brings us back to
Jan Becher’s Bar, where I’d planted
myself after the distillery visit. As soon
as I finished the better-than-it-sounded
Midnight Pupp, the bartender poured me
a glass of Becherovka straight up.
As in many countries, the Czech
expression
for “cheers,” na zdravi, doubles as
“to health.” As I raised a glass of the elixir
here, it never seemed more appropriate.
— david Farley
WhERE to dRinK BEchERoVKa in KaRloVY VaRY
Jan Becher MuseumTake a tour of the birthplace of
Becherovka, where the liqueur was
distilled from 1867 until 2010, then sample
the herbal drink.
T.G. Masaryka 282/57, 420/359-578-142,
becherovka.cz
Jan Becher’s BarThe basement of the historic and
stately Grandhotel Pupp is dedicated
to Becherovka. The extensive menu of
cocktails includes a dozen or so made
with Becherovka, some of which, including
the Midnight Pupp, are signature creations
of the bar.
Grandhotel Pupp, Mirové náměsti 2,
420/353-109-111, pupp.cz
FoopaaThis chic cocktail bar attracts Karlovy
Vary’s bold and beautiful residents.
There are several Becherovka cocktails
on the menu, including the classic Beton
(Becherovka and tonic).
Jaltská 7, 420/722-658-334,
www.foopaa.cz
Midnight pupp(MAKES 1 COCKTAIL)
Based on the recipe
from Jan Becher’s Bar
ingredients¼ ounce Becherovka¼ ounce Amaretto¼ ounce apricot brandy5 ounces orange juiceGrenadine
Make it
1. Pour the Becherovka, Amaretto, apricot
brandy, and orange juice into a cocktail shaker
with several ice cubes.
2. Shake well. 3. Strain into
a tall glass, add a dash of grenadine, and serve.
czecH, please
DrinK
23
23
23
2013 exceptional travel experiences 15
DOUBLE haPPiNESS iN MELBOURNE By NICOLE BLAESS-SMITHComing in off the streets of a typical windy
and wet Melbourne winter day, it was a
welcome relief to be able to relax next to
the fully stocked fire. My gaze flickered
over the menu and names like “Mr. Fu,”
“Communist Manifesto,” and “Dixie
Mission” leapt out at me—this wasn’t a
bar for those without a little sense of
humor. Adorned with Chinese lucky cats,
Chairman Mao figurines, and a dragon
flying overhead, the bar is a cozy retreat
from the city streets.
REad MoRE
DrinK HiGHliGHts
ThE BaRN iN BERLiNBy LINDSEy TRAMUTA Perhaps Berlin’s greatest gourmet coffee shop, The Barn has faced a wave of
controversy surrounding their second location, which opened in the Prenzlauer Berg
neighborhood last September. At this larger space, which is meant to serve more as a
tasting lab and roasting home than an extension of their intimate first venture, dogs,
laptops, and strollers, among other things, are not welcome. you can also forget about
sugar or anything other than whole milk for your coffee.
REad MoRE
COZY CaFE iN UTREChTBy KRISTIN ZIBELL Warm or cold in the Netherlands, Utrecht’s
Cafe Orloff is cozy and breezy at the
same time. In warmer weather, sit outside
along canals and cobblestone streets
with friends to enjoy a beer and
bitterballen combo. When temperatures
dip, sit inside along velvet-cushioned seats
and sip coffee while watching gloved and
scarved bikers pedal by.
REad MoRE
2013 exceptional travel experiences 182013 exceptional travel experiences 17
GUaRaNTEED GOOD COFFEE, aDELaiDEBy NICOLE BLAESS-SMITHChain stores have a reputation for bad coffee, really bad coffee, but things change when
you visit Adelaide, South Australia. If you’re looking for a coffee that is guaranteed to
satisfy your palate, my pick is to head to your nearest Cibo Espresso, or “Cibo” as
the locals know it. With branches all over the city—Rundle Mall, Rundle St East, Hutt St,
Melbourne St, and Pirie St, Cibo does what many other coffee chains fail to do—produce
good quality.
REad MoRE
COCONUT ON iPaNEMa BEaChBy ASHLEy CASTLE All year round, Rio is hot: the sand, the intricately tiled walkways, and the people.
Luckily, ice-cold, fresh coconuts abound, and these little beach stands that line Ipanema and Copacabana
are the ideal place to enjoy a fresh coco or a caipirinha any time of the day. There are two different types
of stands: the ones that open the coco with a machine, and the more authentic stands where the coconut
“barista” chops off the top with a machete.
REad MoRE
DrinK HiGHliGHts
2013 exceptional travel experiences 20
Do
“The northern lights were so much more
than I expected,” says Jennifer Farrell,
from North Ridgeville, Ohio, who saw
the lights for the first time about two
years ago. Farrell traveled to Swedish
Lapland—a province in the far northwest
of the country that’s known for its
indigenous Sami culture and snowy
sweeps of forests, mountains, and
plateaus—with tour operator Discover
the World. From December to March,
the company offers a four-day Northern
Lights trip that begins in Lapland’s Abisko
National Park. Here, the lights, also called
the aurora borealis, are especially likely to
appear due to the park’s clean air and lack
of clouds. The lights may illuminate the
sky in arcs, patches, or rippling sheets of
green, red, violet, white, or blue, and some
observers say they can even hear them
swish and crackle.
niGHt liGHtsOn the first evening of the trip, travelers
dine on venison and arctic char at the
Abisko Mountain Lodge, then bundle up in
snowsuits for a bracing chairlift ride to the
Aurora Sky Station. “The lights
started out as a greenish fog as we walked
up to the chairlift, and I was worried I’d
be disappointed,” Farrell says. “Then,
as we ascended into the cold, cold air and
wind, the lights shifted. They
were spectacular.”
At the station, visitors can take in the view
from an observation tower and explore
a science exhibit on the aurora, which is
created when solar wind particles collide
with Earth’s upper atmosphere. “I stayed
outside as long as I could, slipped into the
station to get warm, then went back out
to admire the lights,”
Farrell says. “It was surprising how they
slowly changed and how downright huge
they were. They were definitely worth
the trip.”
After leaving Abisko, travelers spend two
nights at the Icehotel (pictured). Rebuilt
every winter from giant blocks of ice, the
hotel has beds made of snow covered
with reindeer pelts. Ice sculptures serve as
decorations. (Warmer accommodations
are also available.) The hotel runs nightly
trips by snowmobile, bus, and horseback
to the best aurora-viewing spots. If guests
are lucky, the lights might simply appear
above their room in a ghostly
green swirl.
—Jennica peterson
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2013 exceptional travel experiences 222013 exceptional travel experiences 21
ThE BLUEBiRD CaFE, NaShViLLEBy APRIL KILCREASEAt the 100-seat Bluebird Cafe, hear aspiring songwriters as well as chart-topping
geniuses perform their original works. Featured on the TV series Nashville, the venue first
gained acclaim as a testing ground for country singer/songwriters, including Taylor
Swift, Faith Hill, and Garth Brooks. The legendary listening room has a strict no-talking
policy, so keep your reviews to yourself until after the set.
REad MoRE
aRGENTiNa GLaCiER hiKEBy EVE TUROWRunning along the Chile-Argentina border, Perito Moreno is one of three Patagonian
glaciers that is not retreating. It covers almost 100 square miles! I still remember the
moment, out of the bus window, that Perito Moreno first came into view. The enormity
of it blew me away. The following day I had the chance to actually walk on the glacier.
Clamping on my crampons, I recall the flurry of butterflies in my stomach, reaching up to
my throat.
REad MoRE
Do HiGHliGHts
2013 exceptional travel experiences 24
YOGa ON ThE EQUaTORBy SAKHI VyAS My three best friends and I recently
started practicing yoga. We discovered
it independently—Ellen in Alaska, Anna
in Michigan, Katie in Ecuador, and me in
New york. While visiting Ecuador this
past June for Katie’s wedding, we came
up with the brilliant plan to practice yoga
together on the Equator! The day before
the wedding, we headed outside the city
to the Mitad del Mundo site and found
“balance” at the center of the world
REad MoRE
Do HiGHliGHts
TiME OUT FOR TOTS, MEXiCOBy JULIE SCHWIETERT COLLAZOGlobo Museo del Niño is Guadalajara’s
children’s museum, with seasonally-themed
exhibits changing quarterly.
Highly interactive, it encourages learning
through play and hands-on activities. If
your timing’s right, your child might also
be able to participate in a docent-led
workshop or enjoy music and dancing
during a live concert.
REad MoRE
wiNTER aT ThE waVEBy ANDI FISHER The wave is a gorgeous rock formation near the Arizona and Utah border. It’s part of
the Coyote Buttes, in the Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness. Don’t rush off there
expecting to just show up and visit, because this area is tightly controlled by the Bureau
of Land Management, and only 20 people are allowed in on a daily basis. you can apply
for permits online or participate in the daily lottery for a day pass to see these magnificent
rock formations.
REad MoRE
2013 exceptional travel experiences 26
sHop
Residents of Ireland’s Aran Islands, a trio
of islets at the mouth of Galway Bay,
know a thing or two about braving the
elements. For centuries, the farmers and
fishermen who live there have dealt with
buffeting winds and driving rains that
surge across the Atlantic. Their principal
means of defense? A “fisherman’s,” or
Aran, sweater. Producing the thick woolen
sweater is a time-intensive craft, since
authentic Arans are knit entirely by hand.
“A proper Aran might have 100,000
stitches,” says Mary Conneely, of Cottage
Handcrafts in County Galway, “and if you
care for it, it
will last a lifetime.”
irelanD: sHear warmtH Lore has it that each Aran clan developed
its own distinctive stitching for sweaters,
with patterns that included ancient Celtic
symbols, cables (evocative of seamen’s
ropes), diamonds (farmland), or zigzags
(the island cliffs). These patterns have
been passed down through generations
and remain powerful symbols of a family’s
heritage. As a sad aside, the stitches are
also believed to have helped identify
bodies of fishermen who washed ashore
after accidents at sea.
Today, visitors to the islands clamor
for genuine Aran knits. As with many
traditional crafts, though, machine-made
varieties have flooded the market in AF
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recent years. Ask for handmade sweaters
at local crafts shops, and be ready to pay
a little more for the genuine article.
—Bob gulla
2013 exceptional travel experiences 27
sHop HiGHliGHtsNaRGiLE iN iSTaNBULBy LEEANN MURPHyThe allure of smoking narghile, also known
as hookah, shisha, and water pipe, is
insurmountable in the Middle East. In
Istanbul, the most authentic place to try
it is the Corlulu Ali Pasa Medresesi. The
300-year-old Medrese has evolved from a
religious school and dervish lodge during
Ottoman times to bazaar stores to
the current oasis for locals and tourists
wishing to escape the hustle and bustle of
the Grand Bazaar District. Here, no one is
in a rush.
REad MoRE
ThE MOROCCaN SNUGGiE By ANGIE ORTH Ah, the jalaba—one of the best souvenirs
you can bring home from Morocco.
A jalaba (djellaba/jellaba) is a traditional
Berber robe with long sleeves & a pointy
hood worn in North Africa. In the Atlas
Mountains, the color of the jalaba indicates
a person’s relationship status. It’s like
Facebook feed for your wardrobe. The
jalaba is long, roomy, and warm, so
you can eat couscous until you feel like
exploding.
REad MoRE
COULD DYE iN PERUBy JOAN WHARTONWhile visiting Peru last year, my husband and I were lucky enough to be in Pisac for
the weekly farmers’ market held every Sunday. During the market, local Peruvians
meet to buy and barter produce, bread, and other supplies they need for the week.
The market also caters to tourists, offering handmade crafts, food, and drinks
that are fun to try. I was struck by the variety of products for sale, probably the most
surprising of which was this powdered dye.
REad MoRE
2013 exceptional travel experiences 302013 exceptional travel experiences 29
sHop HiGHliGHts
ChRiSTMaS MaRKETS iN GERMaNYBy SHARON INThe markets take place usually in the center of the town, and you’ll find all manner
of stalls selling a wide array of crafts and tasty regional delicacies, such as sweets, mulled
wine (Glühwein), and other delights. When there’s snow, the atmosphere is absolutely
magical. Almost every city, town, and village in Germany has its own Christmas market,
and deciding on which one to attend is not easy, as each of them is unique and reflects
local & regional culture.
REad MoRE
BEST MaRKETS iN ECUaDORBy KAITLyN BARRETTEveryone who visits Ecuador knows about Otavalo market. The weavings! The sweaters!
The scenic vendors! Saquisili has all of those and a heaping dose of local people
buying local things and going about their local business. There’s street food
(grilled chicken feet anyone?), a market just for shoes, a live animal market, and more
people and commodities than you’ll have time to see in a given day.
REad MoRE
2013 exceptional travel experiences 322013 exceptional travel experiences 31
exceptional WINTER experiences 2013SPONSORED BY ThE MaRRiOTT REwaRDS® PREMiER CREDiT CaRD FROM ChaSE