Europe’s Premier Clutch Brand

Licensed to Italy

UNSURPASSED QUALITYRosso Forca is internationally known for its high quality in vehicle clutches, from accurate design, to high quality manufacture and unsurpassed durability with equaled customer support and after sales reliability. Rosso Forca has been dominating the European motor industry for decades and hence has become Europe’s Premier Clutch brand being asked for by name.

Rosso Forca identically produces almost all OEM clutches as fitted by motor vehicle manufacturer to the same levels of quality as the original in your motor vehicle.

WARRANTYAll Rosso Forca clutches are guaranteed for 13 months from date of purchase.

Our warranty is limited for the replacement of the actual clutch only and does not cover any labour costs or incidental, accidental or consequential costs or damages.

While all clutches undergo strict quality control, our warranty does not cover post despatch damage which may result from:Mishandling during shipping or transportationIncorrect purchasesIncorrect fitmentOther clutch related problemsIncorrect drivingCompetitive use or abuse

Rosso Forca will commission a manufacture & quality inspection before any claims are entertained.

Unacceptable warranty claims result from incorrect fitment, driving and even vehicle defects and includes

Driven Plate:Damaged hub splinesWorn or damaged torsion damper springsBurnt out or broken facings

Cover assembly:Worn or broken diaphragm fingersBurnt out pressure plateBent or broken drive straps

Release bearing:Worn or broken bearing

In the event of a claim, please return to the spares shop purchased along with your original along with your original invoice in order to initiate claim within the 12 month period.

CK333RF C2 / C3 / C4 1.6I 16VCK325RF C4 / C5 2.0I (NEW)

CITROEN

DAEWOOCK84RF CIELO 1.5 (NEW)CK85RF ESPERO / / KADETT 1.8 / 2.0

FIATCK206RF UNO / SIENNA / CENTO 17.4MM 00-CK143RF UNO / SIENNA / PALIO 1.1 / 1.2 / 1.4CK142RF UNO FIRE 1.1

FORDCK97RF BANTAM / MAZDA RUSTLER 1.4I / 1.6ICK37RF CORTINA / GRANADA / SIERRACK179RF CORTINA / GRANADA / SIERRA V6CK275RF COURIER / MAZDA B-SERIES 2.5D-22 SPLINECK276RF COURIER / MAZDA B-SERIES 2.5D-23 SPLINECK64RF COURIER / MAZDA B-SERIESCK131RF COURIER / MAZDA B-SERIES / MARATHON 2.2 12VCK33RF ESCORT 1.6 MK3CK167RF LASER / MAZDA STING 1.3/1.6 -02CK92RF LASER / METEOR / KIA SPORTAGE / MAZDA 2.0 16V CK100RF LASER / METEOR / MAZDA 323 1.3 1.5 70MM RBCK44RF LASER / METEOR / MAZDA 323 1.3 1.5 70MM RBCK290RF ROCAM 1.3/1.4/1.6

HONDACK90RF BALLADE 130 / 150 12VCK218RF BALLADE 150I ENCORECK219RF BALLADE 160I / 160E LUXLINE

HYUNDAICK445RF H100 2.5DT D4BF 2.6 D4BBCK233RF 2.5TD 2.6DCK239RF ACCENT 1.3CK237RF ACCENT 1.5 / GETZ 1.3I / 1.4ICK357RF ATOZ 1.0 / 1.1CK211RF ELANTRA 1.6 / 1.8 J1 SONATACK238RF ELANTRA J2 / GETZ 1.6CK232RF H100 2.5DT / COLT 3.0 RODEO (NEW)

ISUZUCK129RF KB 2.3 4ZD1CK147RF KB 2.5D 4JA1CK71RF KB C190 / C223 / G180Z / G200ZCK362RF KB250C 4JA1CK263RF KB250DC 4JA1 / 4JA1-LCK164RF KB260 4ZE1CK187RF KB280DT 4JB1

KIACK356RF K2700D / PREGIO CK264RF SHUMA / RIO

MAZDACK197RF ETUDE 160E / 180E

MITSUBISHICK449RF MITSUBISHI / COLT 2.8TD 4M40 (NEW)

NISSANCK3RF A12 / A14CK295RF ALMERA 160 16V QG16DECK284RF ALMERA 160 GA16DE / 180 QG18DE

NISSANCK51RF EXA / LANGLEY E13 / E15CK304RF HARDBODY KA20DE / KA24DECK79RF ONE TONNER / HI-RIDER / SANI Z24S (NEW)CK113RF PICK UP A14 -08CK353RF SANI / 1 TONNER / HARDBODY 3.0 VG30ECK153RF SANI / 1 TONNER / HARDBODY TD27CK96RF SENTRA / SABRE E16 / GA16DCK148RF SENTRA 1.4 GA16D 16VCK95RF SENTRA E13CK30RF SKYLINE / 720 L18 / H20

OPELCK83RF ASTRA / CORSA / KADETT 130I / 140ICK119RF ASTRA 160I / 160IECK183RF ASTRA 160IE / 160ISCK286RF CORSA 1.4ICK287RF CORSA 1.6ICK241RF CORSA 1.7D UTILITY

RENAULTCK321RF CLIO 1.2I 16V / 1.4I 8V

TOYOTACK17RF COROLLA / CRESSIDA 1.8 3TCK196RF CAMRY 200I/220SICK165RF CONQUEST / TAZZ 1.3 12V 2ECK162RF CONQUEST / TAZZ 4AFE / 7AFECK105RF CONQUEST 1.3 12V -91CK69RF CONQUEST 1.6 16V RSI -91CK166RF CONQUEST 1.6 16V RSI 92-93

TOYOTACK305RF COROLLA / RUNX 140I 4ZZ-FECK308RF COROLLA / RUNX 4A-GE20 / 2ZZ-GE VVTICK18RF CRESSIDA 18R / 21R / 5M-ECK62RF HI-ACE 3YCK112RF HI-ACE 4Y / INYATHICK367RF HILUX / QUANTUM 2.7 2TR-FECK160RF HILUX / VENTURE / STALLION 2.4D 2LCK273RF HILUX 2.4D 2LCK279RF HILUX 2.7 3RZ-FE 98-05 (NEW)CK274RF HILUX 2.8 3L / 3.0 5LCK217RF HILUX 2.8D 3LCK355RF HILUX 3.0 D4D 1KZ-TE/1KDCK111RF VENTURE 2Y -00CK465RF YARIS 1.0 KR-FECK419RF YARIS 1.3 06-

VOLKSWAGENCK27RF GOLF / JETTA / FOX 1.3 / 1.5CK80RF GOLF / JETTA / FOX 1.3 / 1.5CK204RF GOLF / JETTA 1.8 CTI/GSX/CSXCK108RF GOLF / JETTA II 2.0 GTI / CSICK203RF GOLF / POLO 1.4/1.6 99-CK82RF GOLF /JETTA 1.8 -96CK81RF GOLF/JETTA 1.6 -96CK36RF KOMBI / CARAVELLE 1.9I / 2.1I

??1. Worn diaphragm spring fingers

CAUSE: • Release bearing seized• Faulty release bearing• Incorrectly adjusted release system

2. Damaged inner bore on release bearingCAUSE: • Incorrect grade of grease or no grease used• Damaged gearbox snout

3. Damaged bearing lugs

CAUSE: • Damaged release system

4. Broken pressure plate

CAUSE: • Overhead pressure plate as a result of prolonged clutch slip• Clutch slips due to worn facings• Damage or seized release system• Faulty slave cylinder• Facings oil contaminated (replace faulty seals)

5. Clutch cover damaged

CAUSE: • Fitting fault• Not aligned to flywheel correctly

6. Gearbox snout worn

CAUSE: • Incorrect grade of grease or no grease used• Damaged release bearing

7. Fouling marks on driven plate segment rivets (VW, Rover)CAUSE: • Fitting fault• Release clip incorrectly fitted• Incorrect circlip

8. Tangential strap broken

CAUSE: • Play in the drive train• Worn drive line coupling (BMW)• Incorrect driving practice• Tow starting in 1st or 2nd gear• Wrong clutch fitted• Engine rotation incorrect (Renault)

9. Tangential strap bent

CAUSE: • Play in the drive train• Worn drive line coupling (BMW)• Incorrect driving practice• Tow starting in 1st or 2nd gear• Incorrect gear selection• Improper storage• Dropping the clutch prior to fitting• Clutch not bolted up evenly and sequentially

10. Damaged spline profile

CAUSE: • Incorrect fitting• Gearbox input shaft and hub splines not correctly aligned prior to fitting• Driven plate not centered• Incorrect driven plate

??11. Splines are damaged on one side and worn to a taper, torsion damper damagedCAUSE: • Spigot (pilot) bearing defective• Misalignment between engine and gearbox

12. Damaged idle damper

CAUSE: • Incorrect fitting• Incorrect driven plate

13. Driven plate segments sheared

CAUSE: • Worn or missing spigot (pilot) bearing • Misalignment condition between engine and gearbox• Gearbox hung while fitting the clutch

14. Burst facing

CAUSE: • Driven plate speed exceeded the burst speed of facing material. The clutch has been disengaged while traveling at a speed above the maximum speed for the gear selected.The damage is caused independently of engine speed, the critical factor is the speed of the gearbox input shaft

15. Facing burnt

CAUSE: • Oil contaminated facings• Faulty oil seals• Release system seized or faulty• If the flywheel has been refaced the pot depth was not considered or the bolting surface not machined by the same amount

16. Excessive driven plate runout (distorted driven plate)CAUSE: • Driven plate not checked before fitting• Driven plate bent during fitting (maximum permissible runout 0.5mm)

17. Bearing and casing damaged

CAUSE: • Overheating of the release bearing due to incorrect clearance causing loss of grease and resulting in the bearing breaking up

18. Bearing carrier damaged

CAUSE: • Release bearing seized on gearbox snout• Damaged gearbox snout• Worn or damaged release arm bushes

19. Overheating of pressure plate

CAUSE: • Oil on the facings (reduced coefficient of friction)• Faulty oil seals• Insufficient release bearing clearance• Damaged release system (cable or hydraulic)• Incorrect driving practice• Allowing the clutch to slip for too long

20. Deep grooves and trace of over heating on the pressure plateCAUSE: • Facings badly worn• Incorrect release bearing clearance• Faulty release system• Clutch operating in a partially disengaged condition

??21. Facing carbonised

CAUSE: • Facing oil contaminated• Defective oil seal• Clutch allowed to slip for too long

22. Facing oil contaminated

CAUSE: • Engine or gearbox oil seals defective

23. Facing contaminated by grease

CAUSE: • Splines over greased• Surplus grease was not removed• Grease has been thrown out on to the facing material

24. Facing material worn down to rivetsCAUSE: • Facing worn• Vehicle being driven despite slippling clutch• Bad driving practice• Allowing the clutch to slip for too long• Incorrect clutch assembly• Faulty release mechanism

25. Facing scored on the flywheel side

CAUSE: • Flywheel not replaced• Contct surface on the flywheel not re-machined

26. Diaphragm spring fingers bent

CAUSE: • Fitting fault• Diaphragm fingers bent during fitting

27. Flywheel scored

CAUSE: • Flywheel not re-machined/ renewed

28. Torsion damper broken

CAUSE: • Incorrect driving practice• Driving the vehicle in to high gear at low revs• Grease/oil contaminated facing

GUIDELINES: INSTALLING YOUR NEW CLUTCH1. Getting it right the first time. It is vital to diagnose the cause of clutch malfunction before clutch replacement in order to verify that your vehicle’s clutch is the source of your problems: i.e. check hydraulic system - bearing free travel - clutch cable, oil leaks and check for any signs of red dust when old clutch is being removed. Any or all of these problems must be corrected before installing a new clutch.2. Ensure clutch purchased is correct for the application.3. Flywheel must be replaced or machined as shown below or warranty will be void and check spigot bearing or the pilot bush and replace if necessary. Please note pilot bush noises are more apparent when the engine and transmission systems are cold (i.e. in the mornings).4. Before fitting, check the clutch for any shipping damage. Next clean the gear box main drive shaft splines, and then check that clutch disc slides freely on the shaft. Lightly grease the shaft splines with high melting point grease. Always ensure bell housing is degreased and is free of any dust and that fibres from the worn clutch are removed. If the clutch is a large size pull type clutch check the ID of the bearing head for correct spline size before installation. Lack of lubrication/dry splines will cause failure to disengage gears and also cause clutch drag. Never over lubricate/grease the spline of your clutch disc as grease will splatter during rotation of the engine and clutch. Contamination - grease/oil on the clutch disc friction material will cause the clutch to slip.5. Check clutch release fork for cracks, check the clutch cable for stretch signs and check the release bearing guide tube for any wear. check the bearing on clutch release fork after installing the bearing on it. Move the fork forwards, and backwards i.e. in both directions to ensure bearing is secure and does not fall on any part (clutch fork or bell housing) before refitting gear box. 6. Place the clutch cover pressure plate assembly over the clutch disc, after checking that the disc is the right way around and the hub section of the disc does not fall on the casting of the clutch over assembly or the flywheel. A suitable clutch aligning tool will ensure correct alignment, assist in ease of installation and avoid spline damage. (Burrs on splines are a major cause of difficult gear disengagement). Ensure pressure plate dowels are aligned to the cover. Tighten bolts in a diagonal pattern and never use air tools to install a clutch cover assembly. Torquing down bolts in an uneven pattern in some instances could cause the lever strut to dislodge itself from the pressure plate casting.7. When the pressure plate has been torqued down securely to the flywheel, ensure that the diaphragm tips (in the case of a lever type cover assembly, the release lever tips) are in a paralled or slightly upward position and do not go over centre of the parallel position.8. Refit gear box, taking care not to bend the clutch disc. Never hang the gear box off the clutch disc or use any force to align gear box shaft.9. Check all bell housing dowels are in correct position and tighten bell housing bolts. Ensure there is no dirt or foreign material between the mating surfaces of the engine and the bell housing.10. Perform any clutch adjustments to vehicle manufacturer’s specifications and always reset the clutch master cylinder push rod to cabin comfortable pedal release position (clutch taking up as close as possible to the floor prevent clutch shudder and in most cases preferred by vehicle drivers). Keep in mind that the diaphragm tip position has changed with the installation of the new clutch.11. Always check the clutch cable if you are unable to obtain disengagement when a new clutch is fitted. Start off your checking process by replacing the cable. If it is a hydraulic clutch start by checking the clutch master cylinder and the clutch slave cylinder, ensuring there is no air in the system.

INSTALLATION GUIDELINESRemove the Old Clutch

1. Unhook the positive battery cable, the clutch cable or hydraulic slave cylinder to get the transaxle ready for easy removal. Eliminate anything that may hinder your efforts, including exhaust pipes and the speedometer.2. Secure your car in a safe position before jacking up the front end.3. Stabilise the engine with a jack below the oil pan. Remove the transaxle by undoing at least one engine mount.4. Separate the engine from the transaxle by removing the bolts that surround the flywheel bell housing.5. Push the transaxle away from the engine until the input shift clears the pressure plate.6. Disengage the bolts surrounding the pressure plate and take it and the clutch disc out. Check to see if the flywheel’s friction surface is scored, checked or has hot spots. Remove, machine and reinstall the flywheel, if needed. 7. Examine the pilot bearing (bushing) located at the flywheel’s centre to be sure the needle bearings are lubricated and that there’s no galling. Also look for any oil leaking around the rear main engine seal.

Replace the Clutch

8. Follow the instructions for replacing your car’s clutch carefully to avoid having to remove the transaxle.9. Check that the transaxle’s input shaft isn’t leaking; replace if needed. 10. Take out the flywheel and the old seal and install a new seal.

Install a New Clutch

11. Clean the crankshaft flange before putting in the flywheel. With the flywheel on top of the flange, secure the bolts in a star formation to the specified torque for your vehicle.12. Install the clutch disc and pressure plate. Prior to putting in the transaxle, attach the new release bearing to the release fork. The fork should move freely.13. Hoist the transaxle into position and move it forward until the input shaft glides into the clutch disc’s spindled hole. Do not apply force.14. Reinstall any bolts or mounts that were removed to replace the car’s clutch. Grab the transaxle, release the jack and lower your vehicle.15. Investigate replacing your car’s clutch cable. If you don’t replace the cable at least adjust it for the right amount of free-play.16. Confirm that your clutch’s self-adjusting action is performing correctly by depressing the slave cylinder’s piston into it bore.17. Drive your car to be sure your clutch is working properly.

POINTS TO DOUBLE CHECKNo oil on flywheel surface (grind surface if needed)Check pilot bearingCheck for Engine oil leakageGrease forks and quil correctlyRelease bearing must slide correctlyClean clutch housingInstallation pins of engine and gear box must be in good conditionTighten the mounting bolts gradually and evenly by diagonal section to avoid distorting the coverBeware of flywheel slideCheck Spline fitUse a centering toolCheck strap conditionCheck clutch cable

Abu Dhabi F123 November 2014